HOMEBREW Digest #5125 Thu 11 January 2007

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		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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  Can This Beer be Saved? ("Peter Garofalo")
   (White, CPT, Paul\)" <syrops@mepcom.army.mil>
  Tetra extract ("Peed, John")
  Wheat efficiency... clarification. (Michael Eyre)
  Controlling ferment overflow (Rich Lynch) (Richard Lynch)
  low efficiency from  malted wheat ("Janie Curry/ Todd Weaver")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 15:23:06 -0500 From: "Peter Garofalo" <pgarofa1 at twcny.rr.com> Subject: Can This Beer be Saved? Well, it happens to everyone at some point.... My toasted oatmeal stout that's been kegged for a month or more reeks of rancid butter. I could try to blame someone else, but I'd rather see if this beer can be rescued. To backtrack a bit, I believe the source of the overwhelming diacetyl lies in a cool fermentation using Safale S-56 dry yeast. This has been a consistent winner, but I have heard (too late) that it leaves residual diacetyl if fermented too cool. This was fermented in my brew partner's basement, probably in the low 60's F (primary and secondary). After thinking a bit about how diacetyl is formed and absorbed, I concluded that one possibility for saving this beer would be to kraeusen it. I had some room in the keg, so I made a starter from another dry yeast (Munton's; it's what was on hand) using some previously canned wort. It hit kraeusen a short while ago, and I pitched it into the keg. I'll keep it warm for a week or so and see how it goes. Theoretically, kraeusening should reduce the diacetyl to a flavorless compound, leaving a drinkable stout. I added far less than the usually specified 10% of actively fermenting wort, but I am shooting for diacetyl reduction, not carbonation. How much active yeast does it take to effectively reduce diacetyl? I'm flying by the seat of my pants here. I don't know whether this will work, but it took very little effort. It would be very cool if it did save the beer. I have not seen anything posted about this being tried before, though it surely has been. At any rate, I will post my results to this list in a couple of weeks. Cheers, Pete Garofalo Syracuse, NY (snowy, at last) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 06:17:00 -0600 From: "Syracuse- OPS \(White, CPT, Paul\)" <syrops at mepcom.army.mil> Subject: Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 22:33:36 -0500 From: "Bryan L" <rheinheitsgebot at gmail.com> Subject: Bass keg valve - removal ____________ Does anyone know how to safely remove the valve from a Bass/Tennets keg (Grundy G...maybe) ? I just took possesion of a retired keg to play with. The problem is that I don't know how to remove the valve. The keg is from Bass, and has that rounded triangle valve that of course I don't have a coupler for. I searched the Hbd and could only come up with a few comments from Tom Davidson (hbd #5123) regarding the same problem, but the only resolution was to convert to a kettle - not my plan, yet. Thanks everyone and cheers! Just my two cents but Midwest has a bass tap for about 65 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:00:27 -0800 From: "Peed, John" <jpeed at elotouch.com> Subject: Tetra extract Mike asks where to find Tetra. As far as I can tell, it's only available to commercial brewers. You might ask a hop manufacturer for a sample. John Peed Oak Ridge, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:13:44 -0800 From: Michael Eyre <meyre at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Wheat efficiency... clarification. Hey all... I didn't mention in my original post, but I batch sparge, so I don't think channeling is going to be an issue for me. However, the crush aspect never crossed my mind. Thinking about it now, the what malts we have do appear a bit smaller, perhaps than the barley malts... I'll look into that closer next time and maybe make an adjustment for the wheat, running it through separately. I'll report back on whether or not that cures the problem or not. Thanks to all for the info! Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 08:01:44 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Lynch <rlny7575 at yahoo.com> Subject: Controlling ferment overflow (Rich Lynch) Hello everyone, Just want to introduce myself, my name is Rich and I've been brewing for about a year, I mostly do 5 gallon partial mashes in my apt kitchen. Also I'd just like to say what an amazing resource I think the HBD is. I've been lurking for a couple of months and found a lot of interesting reading here so, thanks! My Question: Whats the best way to maintain sanitation while dealing with overflow from a violently fermenting glass carboy? With a 3-piece airlock, is fitting a tube over the air outlet and running that to a jug of nearby sanitizer or water enough? What about Krauzen or whatever seeping around the rubber stopper? Maybe this is no big deal but I was wondering what tips you all might have. Thanks, Rich Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 19:28:09 +0000 From: "Janie Curry/ Todd Weaver" <houndandcalico at hotmail.com> Subject: low efficiency from malted wheat Michael Eyre asks about low extraction from malted wheat. Mike, do you have a way of accurately measuring your mash pH?. In my current brewing location, I have excellent water and haven't had to make pH adjustments to the mash. However, I have lived in areas where the mash pH was outside of the ideal range of pH 5.3-5.5 (taken from a sample cooled to room temp with an inexpensive gut calibrated pH meter). My pH with pale colored grains has been as high as pH 5.9 or so and I have had to adjust down with food grade lactic acid. Didn't take much, maybe a half to full teaspoonful in the mash. Huge gains in efficiency when the pH is in the correct range. Also, it helps to acidify the sparge water, if it needs it. Todd in Fort Collins Liquid Poets Homebrew Club Return to table of contents
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