HOMEBREW Digest #5127 Sun 14 January 2007

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  diacetyl (leavitdg)
  Fermenter Heat ("A.J deLange")
  RE:  Can This Beer be Saved? ("denny@projectoneaudio.com")
  Half coupler on my boil kettle (Andrew Tate)
  Fermenting dextrins (Signalbox Brewery)
  overflow ... ("steve.alexander")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2007 08:21:34 -0500 From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: diacetyl Peter; ]Even more to the point are the brews from: Sackett's Harbor. - ---- P.S. If you can't get rid of the diacetyl, why not put a "Middle Ages" label on it. Nobody will know the difference! - --- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2007 15:15:08 +0000 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Fermenter Heat While the discussion of heat produced by fermentation was going on last week I had a stout in progress. It is finished now and I dumped the temperature profile data this morning. The fermenter is well insulated (thermal time constant of about 45 hours) so a 1 degree Fahrenheit rise in temperature can be attributed to (approximately) the evolution of 1 BTU per pound of fermenting wort. Applying that rule to this fermentation, one of the most vigorous I have ever seen as I brewed the beer on Monday and was able to drink it with dinner on Wednesday, I found a peak heat evolution of 0.43 BTU/Hr/Lb at 66 F. Thus 5 gallons of wort (approximately 42 lbs) could be expected to produce about 18 BTU/Hr. I would think that a glass carboy could easily dissipate that amount of heat with even a drop of a couple of degrees or that at worst the wet tee shirt trick might be required. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2007 14:56:54 -0500 From: "denny at projectoneaudio.com" <denny@projectoneaudio.com> Subject: RE: Can This Beer be Saved? Pete, I think you're on the right track. I've done exactly that before with great success. Besides, at this point, what else are ya gonna do? Denny Original Message: I don't know whether this will work, but it took very little effort. It would be very cool if it did save the beer. I have not seen anything posted about this being tried before, though it surely has been. At any rate, I will post my results to this list in a couple of weeks. Cheers, Pete Garofalo Syracuse, NY (snowy, at last) - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:16:35 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Tate <y1090r-hbd at yahoo.com> Subject: Half coupler on my boil kettle I recently purchased one of the new heavy duty kettles from Morebeer.com and had them weld in a 1/2in female NPT coupler for a ball valve. My intention was then to screw a bazooka screen into the inside and boil with whole hop flowers. The problem is, I suppose I asked for the wrong type of coupler because it's only threaded in one direction. Does anyone have any creative solutions as to how I could attach a bazooka screen to the outlet? The coupler is flush with the inside of the kettle. I considered a false bottom, but all ones I've seen for boil kettles are pretty expensive. Thanks! Andrew Tate Boston, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 14:56:31 +0000 From: Signalbox Brewery <signalbox.brewery at ntlworld.com> Subject: Fermenting dextrins Chaps In his book 'Home Brewing - the CAMRA Guide', Graham Wheeler asserts that there is no need to prime 'properly brewed' bottled beers as fermentation of residual dextrins will provide sufficient condition after four to six weeks. (He is talking about British ale styles, of course). My experience has been different. Beers that end up flat stay flat if re-opened and yeast is added, but condition if opened and primings are added. Can anyone definitively assert or deny the fermentation of dextrins by yeast, and if so provide a reference? I'm talking about modern homebrewing here; I'm aware that Brettanomyces would ferment dextrins in old beers. David Edge, Derby UK Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 20:32:10 -0500 From: "steve.alexander" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: overflow ... I've never been a fan of "overflow hoses" in HB fermenters, but then again I'm not the best improvisational brewery designer here. I have and have used a large plastic "dish" (animal water dishes, available from farm supply places) just in case of overflow, but I'm a much happier camper when I plan ahead and avoid the problem and mess. I don't like the seal available when you have a big plastic tube jammed into a carboy. This sweet wort residue around the neck is a lip-smacking invitation to infection. I have a clear recollection of an early HB batch where the 5G of wort in a 5G carboy blew all the liquid out of the S-bubbler several times. Apparently while unwatched the foam filled the S-bubbler again, dried and coagulated there then in the middle of the night the fermenter blew the now sealed ferementer stopper into the basement ceiling with enough force to wake me. Foam splatter on the basement rafters and gushing foam on the basement floor - not a pretty sight in the middle of the night (but my beer wasn't ruined). Anyway the key to *avoiding* overflow is to use a sufficiently large *primary* fermenter. A 25L ( ~7G to the neck) acid carboy is almost always sufficient for 5G of wort up to 16P. Often the higher grav worts foam more. I was regularly brewing ~12-13G of normal gravity (~11-13P) wort and fermenting using 15G plastic barrels. I have heard good things about fermenting in quasi-open plastic buckets. Somehow plastic primary fermenters have gotted an undeserved bad rep'. First let's get past the big two problems with plastics in brewing. First never use non-food grade plastics in any food processing. Most people don't seem get the importance. I've seen statements attributing the food-grade plastics problems to flavor, but that's the least of it. The residual plasticisers in non-food-grade plastics can cause cancer and some are mutagenic. I suspect that the ethanol & volatiles in beer are a good way to extract the naughty chems from plastic. Anyway food grade or FDA plastics cost a little more but are the only way to go for beer buckets, bottles & tubing. The other shoe is that plastics are soft and hard to keep clean. You can't scoure plastics without also making them bacteria traps - the dow green scrubbies are ideal at making 1 micron sized grooves (in plastic or metal) - perfect for the creation of bacteria packed blisters. So do clean plastics thoroughly, but take a note from the pro's and use chemicals, water sprays, sponges and detergents rather than muscle & abrasives to remove gunk. Also be aware that plastics age & crack and that bleach is very competant at making plastics brittle. Iodine based sanitizers may discolor plastics, but don't seem to induce brittleness. Despite choosing a correct primary fermenter size, you must stil ltake precautions wrt overflow. Somewhere I tripped across some old 1930s era photos of Bass employees sweeping foam overflow out of the streets in front of the plant. After a zillion brews of the same beer in the same tanks Bass had a problem - so can you despite any reasonable precautions. So first attempt to avoid overflow, but still be prepared. Do the primary ferment in a place & way where an overflow won't be a huge disaster. -S Return to table of contents
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