---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
       THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 

          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
Visit http://www.northernbrewer.com  to show your appreciation!
               Or call them at 1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********


Contents:
  re: Correct amount of hops for full-boil extract recipes... (Wayne Faris)
  too hoppy (leavitdg)
  Re: Correct amount of hops for full-boil extract recipes... (Fred L Johnson)
  Onion-Shallot/Sulfur smell with Safbrew T-58 ("Rich Lynch")
  Re: Correct amount of hops for full-boil extract recipes... ("Kevin Gray")
  Call for Judges and Entries for Las Vegas Winterfest 2007 (Scott Alfter)
  World Record? ("Antony Hayes")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*           The HBD Logo Store is now open!             *
*            http://www.hbd.org/store.html              *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*  Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml   *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*   Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!   *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
  "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
  ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
  the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address
  for the automation - that's your job.

HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.

LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright 
  HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK 
  before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content 
  cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to 
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
                  and Spencer Thomas



----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 23:28:45 -0600
From: Wayne Faris <bugeaterbrewing at charter.net>
Subject: re: Correct amount of hops for full-boil extract recipes...

Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 17:47:54 -0800
> From: Jack Corbett <jwcorbett at wavecable.com>
> Subject: Correct amount of hops for full-boil extract recipes...
>
> I've been following extract recipes, but I usually do a full-boil.  
> Many times my results seem to be "too hoppy."  Is there a rule-of-thumb 
> to follow in scaling-down hop amounts for full-boil extract recipes?

There really isn't a rule of thumb.  The problem is that when you are 
doing  a partial volume boil as many extract recipes specify, you are 
boiling a much higher gravity wort than when you do a full volume boil.  
Hop utilization is less in higher gravity worts.  Thus, when you switch 
to a full volume you don't need quite as much hopping.  John Palmer 
gives a good explanation of this, including a reference chart , at this 
link: http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html .

Wayne
Bugeater Brewing Company



Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 06:33:32 -0500
From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
Subject: too hoppy

Jack;
 My wife loves hops, and it took me several years to discover that the early
hops (bittering hops) contribute to one aspect, while late additions (aroma
hops) contribute another aspect to the final brew.

 I am not sure, but it may be that you are adding too many at the beginning, so
your result is a bitter-beer, but if you add less at the beginning, and more
near the end, you will likely get the wonderful hop aromatics, and maybe not as
much bitterness.
Darrell
Happy Brewing!



Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 07:48:46 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Correct amount of hops for full-boil extract recipes...

Jack is getting beers that are "too hoppy" using extract recipes in a 
full boil and asks if there are adjustments he should make in his 
hopping rate. I'm assuming Jack means his beers are too bitter.

Jack: If you are performing a full boil, i.e., your post-boil volume is 
close to the target initial (prefermentation) gravity, then the 
extraction efficiency of the bittering units will be somewhat greater 
than one gets with concentrated wort boils. However, you should not 
assume that the extract recipes you have been using assume that the 
boil is NOT a full boil. Just because it is an extract recipe doesn't 
mean the wort is expected to be boiled in a concentrated condition and 
that the wort volume is increased after the boil to the target initial 
gravity.

I recommend your calculating the predicted IBUs you will get using the 
alpha acid content of your hops, the length of time they are in the 
boil, the type of hops (pellets versus whole),  and average gravity of 
the wort during the boil. You will find that the different formulas 
floating around out there for estimating IBUs in the final product are 
very different from one another and result in different estimates of 
IBUs in the final product. One of my pet peeves is that folks report 
IBUs in a beer without actually measuring it. (I, too, have been guilty 
of this.) They are actually reporting their estimations using one 
formula or another, and depending upon which formula they chose, the 
estimated IBUs in the product will be VERY different. For this reason, 
I am an advocate of NOT reporting IBUs in recipes unless one has 
actually measured this (rare). Rather, recipes should be reported with 
the amount and type of hops added, the alpha acids of the hops added, 
and when they are added.

I know this isn't much help on the front end for you, but as you gain 
experience with the recipes you are using, you'll see what I'm talking 
about. Put the recipe you are using into the various formulas out there 
(Rager, Tinseth, Daniels, your own formula) and notice the difference 
in the IBUs they estimate.

The bottom line is that if the recipe and process you used on the last 
beer was too bitter, then simply cut back on the amount of bittering 
hops you used.  I recommend a big decrease (e.g., cutting back to 
two-thirds of the bittering hops), so that you can really appreciate 
the difference the decreased hopping rate makes. You can still add lots 
of hops at the end of the boil (even after the boil stops)  if you want 
a lot of hop flavor without the bitterness.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA



Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 11:19:56 -0500
From: "Rich Lynch" <rlny7575 at gmail.com>
Subject: Onion-Shallot/Sulfur smell with Safbrew T-58

Hey Everyone,
Just writing to follow up here:
About a month ago I posted here wondering whether a Sulfur/Onion smell
during fermentation is normal, or an indicator of a spoiled batch of
Belgian style Pale Ale.  Several people responded (thanks again) that
I should give it time, and that it could be a quirk of the t-58 yeast
doing it's job at a low ( ~62F) temperature.  They were right!  I
sampled the first of the bottle conditioned brew last night, and was
pleasantly surprised.  There is *no* lingering sulfur smell or taste
that I detected early on.
Thought I'd share a few observations about Safbrew T-58 (from a fairly
inexperienced brewer, mind):
 - The brew has a fairly strong banana and clove aroma.
 - I didn't notice much of the "peppery" flavor that is advertised for
this strain.
 - Flocculation was pretty good after 10 days in the secondary, this is
one of the clearer beers I've made.
 - Attenuation is also good, I'm estimating about 9% ABV with little sweetness.
 - I don't think I have a Corsendonk Abbey Pale Ale quite nailed ;-)
but it's not a bad brew either.
 -Rich


Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 12:14:21 -0500
From: "Kevin Gray" <kevin.gray at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Correct amount of hops for full-boil extract recipes...

Don't know a rule of thumb, but I too do full boil extracts and I use
BeerTools to check my recipes. It'll let you specify the volume of
boil, so you can enter it as a partial boil, jot down the IBUs, change
the recipe to a full boil, then monkey around with the amount of hops
until you hit the expected IBUs.

I'm sure there's an easier way, though.

Kevin
http://kevbrews.blogspot.com


Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 09:35:24 -0800
From: Scott Alfter <scott at alfter.us>
Subject: Call for Judges and Entries for Las Vegas Winterfest 2007

We've learned our lesson from last year...holding a competition the morning
after St. Patrick's Day wasn't such a hot idea.  Las Vegas Winterfest 2007 is
coming up in a little more than a month, on 10 March 2007.  We're looking to
grow the competition back to what it used to be, and we need your entries!

Two bottles and $6.00 is all it takes to get your beer, mead, or cider in.
Shipped entries are accepted 26 February to 9 March.  If you're coming from out
of town to judge or steward, you can save a few bucks and bring your entries
with you.

This year's competition will be held at the Freakin' Frog, on Maryland Parkway
across from UNLV.  We'll need all of the judges and stewards we can muster; if
you're interested, send me some mail.

For more detailed info, see our competition webpage:

http://www.nevadabrew.com/twiki/bin/view/Competitions/Winterfest07Announce

Thanks, and good luck to all entrants!

Scott Alfter
scott at beerandloafing.org





Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 18:53:22 -0000
From: "Antony Hayes" <ant at anthayes.com>
Subject: World Record?

Moritz Kallmeyer of Drayman's Brewery (www.draymans.com) thinks that he
might have set a record - see below:

"Since its inception in January 1997 all the beer brewed at Drayman's
Micro-Brewery has been hand mashed only by myself in the same tiny 600L
mashtun.  I chose to do mashing, wort collection and wort kettle
operations entirely on my own because of the close relationship I have
with the beer I brew.
 
In the last 10 years I have mashed more than 340 000kg of malt and
brewed more than a million liters of beer. My claim of a world record in
brewing is of course open to be challenged from other micro-brewers
worldwide. To give you an idea of how much malt this is, picture a row
of grain silo's commonly seen in the Free State. One of those silos
contains 340 tonnes.

My mashing procedure is as follows:

1. The pre-crushed malt is stored in buckets (13 x 11kg each). Each
bucket is manually lifted from the floor with my left hand and poured
into the mashtun containing hot water. 

2. The malt is stirred in with a wooden mash paddle of the same design
as stirring paddles commonly shown on many ancient brewery pictures. 

The mashing regime that is used is an upward step, gas flame heated,
infusion mash; with intermittent stirring to avoid scorching on the
bottom while heating. Video recordings of mashing show that the mash is
stirred on average 30 times (counted as full revolutions) per brew. This
equates to about 70 000 hand operated stirring revolutions in the 10
years.

The mash frequency was calculated according to brewery records, malt
bought, excise tax accounts and sales invoices. It averaged to 4.5 times
per week; 10 years are 530 weeks, times 4.5. Thus 2385 mashes were done
in 10 years. The frequency was only once interrupted for 6 days when the
brewery relocated but was never (neither in sickness or by taking leave)
interrupted for longer than those 6 days in the 10 years. 

Calculated as total kilograms of malt mashed at 143kg per brew, it is an
astounding 340 000 kg malt manually lifted and poured into the mashtun
and stirred with a wooden paddle with my own two hands! Using the
average of 250grams of malt per liter of beer, this equates to more than
a million liters of beer brewed.

A new larger mashtun which allows easier mashing is now in use and I
have employed a trainee brewer who has taken over mashing. My hands and
my back are thanking me - they have had enough!

I want to thank all my loyal supporters throughout these years for
making this possible by drinking all this beer and keeping me in
business! I see it as my small part in contributing to the enjoyment and
happiness of mankind. 


Prost!
Moritz Kallmeyer"

If anyone knows of a bigger claim, please let Moritz know on
moritz at draymans.co.za




Return to table of contents

---