HOMEBREW Digest #5250 Tue 06 November 2007


[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
       THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 

                     Your Business Name Here
    Visit http://hbd.org "Sponsor the HBD"  to find out how!
			 
    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********


Contents:
  Re: Serial brewing: is recleaning the fermenter necessary? (Christopher Burian)
  Cleaning Fermenter ("A.J deLange")
  Re: Serial brewing: is recleaning the fermenter necessary? (Bill Tobler)
  re: To clean or not to clean the fermentor?? ("Doug Lasanen")
  re:sour bottled beer ("Ubi")
  Re: water ("Kevin Kowalczyk")
  Adding water after brewing (Calvin Perilloux)
  CO2 Quantity ("H. Dowda")
  sour bottled beer II ("Alexandre Carminati")

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 23:47:56 -0500 From: Christopher Burian <cburian at burian.net> Subject: Re: Serial brewing: is recleaning the fermenter necessary? "Shayne Wissler" <wissler at gmail.com> > I'm planning a serial brew (Belgian single, dubbel, trippel--reusing > yeast at each step). I have a conical fermenter. Is it > necessary/desirable to clean the fermenter between > batches? What are the advantages to cleaning when you're just going to reuse > the yeast? I'd just be guessing regarding the sanitation question. However, repitching a trippel onto an exhausted dubbel yeast could have a less optimal outcome. I would do a single each time as a starter for the dubbel and also the trippel. It's helpful to have fresh, healthy yeast to ferment a high gravity, highly attenuated beer like a trippel, and the only way to get fresh yeast is through reproduction. Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2007 04:38:29 -0500 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Cleaning Fermenter > Is it necessary/desirable to clean the fermenter between batches? < Necessary? Probably not. Desireable? Yes. If you check the inside of the fermenter you will find a ring which extends from where the surface of the wort was to a couple of inches above that indicating the height to which the foam rose during the vigorous part of the fermentation. This ring has dried wort and hop resins on it with a rough surface well designed for harbouring bacteria. You might argue that no bacteria could have gotten in there and you might be right and you might be wrong. Or supposing that the first batch was somehow infected. A cleaning is your insurance policy against that eventuality too. Finally, each brew deposits a little beer stone which you want to get off before it has a chance to build t the point where vigorous scrubbing is required to remove it. Do AB and SABMiller clean between brews? I think they proabably do. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 04:55:40 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <brewbetter1 at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Serial brewing: is recleaning the fermenter necessary? Shayne asked about pitching into an uncleaned fermenter after racking off the beer. I pitch on top of the yeast cake pretty regular, sometimes two or more times. The fermenter is pretty nasty looking, but there should not be any bugs in there. I use a 15 gallon SS pot with lid. (Or very few) But, I think if I had a conical and could get the yeast out just by turning a valve and dumping, I would remove the yeast and clean the fermenter, just because I could do it so easy. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.2, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Brewing Great Beer in South Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:16:13 -0500 From: "Doug Lasanen" <Dlasanen at fuse.net> Subject: re: To clean or not to clean the fermentor?? Shayne Wissler asks..... I'm planning a serial brew (Belgian single, dubbel, trippel--reusing yeast at each step). I have a conical fermenter. Is it necessary/desirable to clean the fermenter between batches? What are the advantages to cleaning when you're just going to reuse the yeast? Shayne...... If you were pitching your new beer on top of a yeast cake in a glass carboy you would be fine with not cleaning the carboy, assuming the carboy was just freshly drained. With the conical fermentor, however, the yeast cake gets very compacted in the cone. I always drain the yeast to a sanitary containor, clean and sanitize the fermentor, and then dump the yeast into the new wort where it will then be in suspension. BTW, isn't the conical fermentor GREAT?? Cheers! Doug Lasanen Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:37:10 -0500 From: "Ubi" <oobyjooby at cs.com> Subject: re:sour bottled beer Do you remove and clean/sanitize the spigot from your bottling bucket? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 08:00:18 -0600 From: "Kevin Kowalczyk" <kevinkowalczyk at gmail.com> Subject: Re: water Scott didn't use enough water in his beer, and asked what effect it would have. You're going to end up with a more flavorful beer with a higher alcohol content than you planned. Unless you are brewing to match a specific style, this is a good thing, in my opinion. Unfortunately, you just will have less of it. Yes, you can add more water when you rack it to your secondary fermenter. Just boil the water, cool it down before adding it, and be careful not to splash or aerate the wort in any way. It's probably best to do this while your yeast is still a little active, so if you do accidentally aerate, the yeasties will consume the free oxygen, keeping it from oxidizing your brew. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 09:37:33 -0800 (PST) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: Adding water after brewing Scott Pierce in the previous HBD asks: "...I started with only five gallons of water. I should of started with six gallons. What affect will this have on the batch? Could I do a second fermentation plus add some new water?" You probably don't even need to do a specific second fermentation for it. You beer is, of course, higher OG and thus more body and alcohol than you planned, but it shouldn't be a problem diluting it later. As an example, if your OG is 1048 instead of 1040, that's not going to drastically affect yeast metabolism. In fact, many of the industrial brewers brew high OG beer that is diluted later (adding 30% of water later IIRC); that's a technique to get the most capacity possible out of their expensive fermentation tanks. You could add water now during primary, or later in secondary, or at bottling (make sure it's mixed in well). The caveat here is to make sure the water you use is near-sterile, deoxygenated, and dechlorinated! This is important. If you introduce nicely-aerated tap water into your finished beer, you'll have flavor problems. Likewise if your water has chlorine/chloramines. If you don't have biologically clean water, it's obviously a problem. I'd consider boiling a gallon of bottled water for a good few minutes, chilling it to near fermentation temperature, and then adding that to the fermenter. Alternatively, you could just do this with the priming sugar step if you are bottling; instead of a cup or two of water to dissolve the priming sugar, boil and use a gallon. Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 11:11:05 -0800 (PST) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: CO2 Quantity OK, for the physics mavens, if a liter of a fluid (say beer) contains 2 vol of CO2 how many grams of CO2 are dissolved given a temp of 20C and a head space of less than 5% of container volume (closed 1050ml container)? When we say vol of CO2 greater than 1.0 does that greater volume contain the assumed 1.0 vol at standard conditions. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 19:47:54 -0200 From: "Alexandre Carminati" <afcarminati at gmail.com> Subject: sour bottled beer II Matt, thanks for helping. Here are some answers about my process: > Does EVERY bottle develop this taste, and at >roughly the same rate? If so then you can be confident that the batch >of beer itself is infected (rather than individual bottles). As I could identify, every bottle develops sourness but the rate vary a bit among them. I dont use any sanitization by heat because most of my stuff is made of some kind of plastic I do fermentation in 60 l (15 gal) hermetic food grade polyethilene cilindroconical fermenters (it has a special rubber o-ring in the lid - this o-ring acts as a airlock) Fermentation is done under controlled temperature (I have a room equipped with a HVAC) and temperature is set to 18 C (65 F) I use a 11 m ( 33 feet) copper counterflow chiller and aeration is done by the beer splashing into fermenter All equipment is celaned/ sanitized trough these operations (in sequence) rinse/ scrub in clean water, wash with a hot (75 C) solution of 2% Caustic Soda (NaOH) rinse in clean water rinse with a 0.15% Peracetic Acid Solution New bottles are rinsed with clean water and sprayed with a 12.5 ppm Iodophor solution. Used bottles are brushed (water/ detergent) before rinsing. When done, beer is cooled at 0 C ( 32 F) racked to a bottling bucket (actually the same kind of tank used to ferment beer) and primming is added. Priming (4.5 g / l) is made of cane sugar dissolved in 0.5 l of boiling water) Well, this is what I can say for a while... I am already wondering about a beer microbiological analysis in order to help this investigation. Thanks again Alexandre Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 11/07/07, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96