FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Your Business Name Here Visit http://hbd.org "Sponsor the HBD" to find out how! Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to: HBD Server Fund PO Box 871309 Canton Township, MI 48187-6309 or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 or more will be provided with receipts. SPOSORSHIPS of any amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible under IRS rules as a bsuiness expense. Please consult with your tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available sponsorship opportunities. *************************************************************** Contents: Re: Olive Oil (Fred L Johnson) Electric Boiling Kettle Heating Element (Harlan Bauer)
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 06:43:34 -0400 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Olive Oil A.J. notes that Hull (New Belgium) couldn't easily justify risking a fermentation without aeration and without any olive oil addition as a control, but I hasten to reiterate that apparently New Belgium was willing to risk a number of test fermentations on an addition of unproven efficacy, i.e., olive oil, so I don't feel like letting him (or New Belgium) off the hook on this one quite yet. For all we know, perhaps there is a considerable amount of air getting into New Belgium's wort (before or during fermentation) without their making any special effort to add it (in line aeration). Perhaps some air is pumped into the fermentor during the transfer of wort from the lauter tun as the the lauter tun runs dry. Perhaps there's a lot of air in the head space of the fermentor, especially on smaller batches. These are not things one would ordinarily concerns himself with since one is usually trying to get air into the wort. I can only speculate on alternative explanations of Hull's results until I see the control data that says otherwise. I do admit to some bias, and I'm sure my skepticism is showing. :0) Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 08:10:58 -0400 From: Harlan Bauer <harlan.bauer at gmail.com> Subject: Electric Boiling Kettle Heating Element Thank you to all who responded to my query about stainless steel drums! OK, so I managed to score 3 55-gal stainless steel drums for my new brewery. They are all the heavy type (~75-lbs) with removable lids and rolled lips. They came from Fuji Potograpics (Japan) and appear to have held some species of inkjet ink contained in a plastic liner. The actual metal appears to be untouched by the ink and they appear to have only been used once. Now I have to heat them. After some off-line conversations, I'm sold on the idea of using low-watt density electric elements for the hot liquor tank and probably the boiling kettle as well. Here's my problem: I went to the Chromalox web site http://www.chromalox.com/ and the only ones I could find that would work for me were all 240 3-phase. Here's what I need: 1.) stainless steel threads and stainless low-watt density element--they need to resist CIP chemicals (Birko Brew-R-ez & Acid-brite) 2.) water resistent outer housing where the wiring gets connected. These tanks are going to be permanantly mounted fixtures that are going to be cleaned CIP; the room they will be housed in will have a floor drain, so the outsides of the tanks WILL be hosed down. Power is to be supplied with flexable waterproof conduit directly to the element--no cords, no plugs, no hassle. 3.) How many watts am I going to need to bring 45 gallons of high gravity wort to a rolling boil? Should I divide the wattage between 2 or 3 heating elements or should/can I use just one? 4.) Is an immersion element my only option? Is there any way I could set up the boiling kettle along the lines of a giant rice cooker with the heating element underneath the kettle? 5.) As a last resort, what about a phase converter? I've got a 200amp service to power my cabinet shop, and I could conceivably put in a phase converter to power a 3-phase circuit that would power both the heating elements and any 3-phase stationary tools I acquire for my shop. Any thoughts? Would I gain any efficiency by having a converter, or would the efficiency of the 3-phase be lost in the converter? Does anyone know anything about quality phase converters? This is a long term project. I own 5-acres in the middle of nowhere. I'm building the house myself and I intend to build a dedicated building for the brewery--a tower, really, so that everything will flow by gravity. The only pump is going to be used for CIP. The actual design of the tower is going to follow the function of the brewery: imagine all these tanks floating in mid air in the position where they will be housed--the building will house that space...some people like cars, I want a brewery. harlan. Return to table of contents
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