HOMEBREW Digest #5361 Thu 03 July 2008

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


                     Your Business Name Here
    Visit http://hbd.org "Sponsor the HBD"  to find out how!
    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any 
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a bsuiness expense. Please consult with your 
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available 
sponsorship opportunities.

  Cooling wort ("Darrell G. Leavitt")
  Cooling in hot weather ("Dave Draper")
  RE: Cooling Wort In Hot Weather (Steven Parfitt)
  Re: Cooling Wort in Hot Weather and Water Chemistry ("Taylor-Burton, Britt")
  cooling wort (Scott/Linda Bruslind)" <analabor@peak.org>
  Re: Cooling Wort In Hot Weather (Derric)
  Re: wheat (Tim Howe)

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 07:06:17 -0400 (EDT) From: "Darrell G. Leavitt" <leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu> Subject: Cooling wort Dave; How about getting another chiller, and placing it in an ice bath, then running that into your other chiller, then through the wort? Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 06:40:28 -0600 From: "Dave Draper" <david at draper.name> Subject: Cooling in hot weather Dear Friends, Long time no post. Nice to see the activity levels rising in response to Dave Larsen's clarion call! In #5360, Dave asks about post-boil cooling in hot climates. I'm also a desert brewer here in Albuquerque, and my approach this time of year is to put a second immersion coil ahead of the one that goes into the kettle, and immerse that coil in a rectangular picnic cooler that has several bags of ice with water in it. The cooling water then gets cooled itself in the ice bath prior to arriving at the immersion coil in the kettle. I can get down to 25-26C in a reasonable amount of time, maybe 40 minutes or so, which is acceptable to me. Generally I wait until the wort's T has dropped from boiling (96 C at my elevation) to below 60 or so before I add the ice bath, because the water out of the hose, warm as it is, has no trouble getting that first phase of cooling done. A key here is to not flow the water too quickly, so that it has time to be in contact with the cooling coil. Another is to stir the ice bath in some way (I just pick up one end of the cooler and slosh everything around) for the same reason we do that with an immersion chiller in the kettle-- the boundary layer around the copper coil needs to be broken up so that the process is not hindered. You'll immediately notice a sharp T drop in the water coming out of the ice bath chiller after doing so, and when it creeps back up again, repeat the process. I tend to stay close to the works during chilling and agitate both coils every five minutes or so for this purpose. Hope this helps, Dave in ABQ =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- David S. Draper, Institute of Meteoritics, Univ New Mexico David at Draper dot Name Beer page: http://www.unm.edu/~draper/beer.html I can't be bought for a mere $3.50. ---Jeff Renner Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 06:10:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Steven Parfitt <thegimp98 at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Cooling Wort In Hot Weather IN HBD 5360, Dave Larsen requests suggestions on cooling wort in hot weather - I suggest you place a second coil of 1/4 to 3/8" dia 10' copper tubing coiled in a 5 gallon bucket filled with crushed ice and water. use this as a POST chiller to cool the wort as it goes into the fermenter. By controlling the speed of the wort throught the chiller, you can control the temp to some degree, and it is comming out too cool, add part of the 80F wort to the chilled wort to hit your desired temp. This is what I do for lagers to get the temp down. Steven >Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 10:55:44 -0700 >I live in the desert. It can reach 112 degrees F pretty easily. ...snip... >I use an immersion chiller, and my tap water is well above 80 degrees. ...snip... >Right now, the way I cool things down is to cool the wort as >far as I can with tap water, and then to use a cold liquor tank, which >is basically a big blue plastic tub filled with ice water. I gravity >feed the ice water, which basically moves at a trickle, through my >immersion chiller and it _slowly_ cools the wort down. It takes >longer than I like, well over an hour, and much of that time is spent >in the danger zone, above 80 degrees F.> > >What solutions do others use? Keep in mind that I do not have a pump >(though I guess I could buy one). > >Dave >Tucson, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 09:38:11 -0500 From: "Taylor-Burton, Britt" <Britt.Taylor-Burton at spansion.com> Subject: Re: Cooling Wort in Hot Weather and Water Chemistry First post ever! We'll see if it gets through. Dave Larsen asked about cooling wort with hot ground water and I'm in the same boat - tap water is in the upper 80s and into the 90s sometimes, depending on whether I'm brewing in the AM or PM. Dave also mentions that he's gravity-feeding cold water through his IC, so he's on the right track but needs to add one thing to his setup - a cheap pond pump from Harbor Freight. The one I bought, for $15, supplies six feet of head, which is plenty to go from the ground to my keggle on the stand. While the tap water is bringing the wort down to 110F, set the bucket on the ground, put the pump in the bottom, and cover with ice. When the wort is at 110, redirect the outflow from the IC to the bucket and add just enough water to cover the pump. Turn off the hose, attach the pump outlet to the IC (I cut off the male end of a damaged hose and clamped it to the pump stem), keep the IC draining back to the bucket, and start the pump. I cut the tops off gallon milk jugs and freeze them to make ice and just keep adding as needed, beating with a hammer to make flakes as the water and wort temps start to converge. This arrangement will take me down into the 40s. Gently stirring cuts the time in half. .............. Dennis Larson mentioned that he downloaded Brewater at my recommendation and I'm interested in what he thinks about it. I really like this little freeware program and use it on every brew - Austin water is pH10+ so I cut with 25 - 35% RO water and add salts as needed. .............. Speaking of high pH in tap water, my understanding is that the utilities do this to keep calcium from plating out on the plumbing. We take our water from the Colorado river and it's chock-full of limestone. Britt South Austin, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 08:29:02 -0700 From: "Analysis_Lab (Scott/Linda Bruslind)" <analabor at peak.org> Subject: cooling wort Dave Larsen asks about cooling strategies and we use a recirculating, refrigerated water bath in our lab. It comes with an integral pump which will work well cooling wort. It has a precision controller, so could be pressed into lagering duty. We buy them on www.labx.com and often on eBay. It's been hit and miss in our bottom-feeding forays in this market, and I'd be happy to discuss that a little further, if prodded. Immersion chillers with their own compact refrigerant systems are another way to go, but we see so many more recirc water baths available that we don't bother with the immersion chillers. Patience rules here. Dealers get good money for ensuring that the refrigeration cycle works and reputable ones will offer post sales service and warranties. However, the systems are pretty durable and buying from a lab closing or University surplus ($150-$400) can yield satisfaction. Names like NESLAB, LAUDA, Techne, Brinkmann are common in the marketplace. All are well built. Just ask the question, 'Does it drop the temp below ambient?' and you have recourse with a seller who makes promises that aren't kept. Plenty of opportunity for these units in AZ, as you can imagine. They are definitely water savers and a precise, justifiable use of refined energy (electricity) as they control temperature in a very circumscribed manner. Best of luck, Scott Bruslind Lacomb, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 13:17:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Derric <derric1961 at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Cooling Wort In Hot Weather > Right now, the way I cool things down is to cool the wort as > far as I can with tap water, and then to use a cold liquor tank, which > is basically a big blue plastic tub filled with ice water. I gravity > feed the ice water, which basically moves at a trickle, through my > immersion chiller and it _slowly_ cools the wort down. It takes > longer than I like, well over an hour, and much of that time is spent > in the danger zone, above 80 degrees F. > > What solutions do others use? Keep in mind that I do not have a pump >(though I guess I could buy one). You stated the easiest answer right there. Buy a pump. I have a sort of "sump pump" which has a water hose fitting and takes water in from the bottom. Simply drop it into your "cold liquor tank" and connect the hose connector to your IC. I return the water back to the tank and just put more ice in as needed. Saves water and you can probably cool into the 50s in 20 minutes or so. (I use 2 or 3 frozen gallon jugs, smashed with a hammer!). Also stir both the tank and your wort. Derric Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2008 20:55:47 -0400 From: Tim Howe <howe at execulink.com> Subject: Re: wheat >Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 19:14:10 -0400 (EDT) >From: "Darrell G. Leavitt" <leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu> >Subject: wheat > >What do you figure is the essential difference between Torrified Wheat and >Malted Wheat in terms of head retention and such? <snip> >Way too much going on in this brew for me to see what the Torrified Wheat >has done. >Darrell Way back when I started brewing (just over 10 years ago) I did a fair bit of experimenting with torrified wheat and malted wheat. My conclusion: neither do a damn thing for head retention, or at least, nothing that I noticed. I did however notice that both contributed a flavor to my beers that I ultimately decided that I didn't care for, and I eventually stopped using both. I still have partial bags of both in my basement... I really should think about getting them on the compost pile. Wonder if I need to grind them first? Anyway, these days I add carafoam to lagers "for head retention". Again, I'm not sure that it actually does anything, but it doesn't detract from the end product, so I'll keep using it until the bag is gone. Mashing temperature and yeast choice are far more important variables. If you get these right, you shouldn't need special malt additions for "head retention" IMO. Cheers, Tim Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 07/04/08, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96