HOMEBREW Digest #539 Mon 19 November 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Using Oak Chips (Keith Morgan)
  Irish Lager recipe? (Rob Malouf)
  Yeast Culturing ("Justin A. Aborn")
  Re: Hop plugs  (dbreiden)
  Hop Plugs, Kegs, etc. (Jay Hersh)
  Dr. Beer Seminar in Boston (Jay Hersh)
  Re: Sparge water preparation  (mcnally)
  re: hop 'plugs', and pony kegging (Paul L. Kelly)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #538 (November 16, 1990) ("J.U.J.")
  Straining hops, etc., etc. (BAUGHMANKR)
  Hot Wort! (Martin A. Lodahl)
  beer kegs vs. soda cans (Dave Suurballe)
  Blowoff Redux (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Undelivered Mail. (JUPITER)
  Small Scale Mashing (Todd Enders - WD0BCI )
  kegging responces (sbsgrad)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 08:44:35 est >From: Keith Morgan <morgan at DG-RTP.DG.COM> Subject: Re: Using Oak Chips To add my $.02 to the oak chips discussion: My one experiment with oak chips (small handfull tossed in the boil) resulted one of the least palatable beers I've ever brewed. When I described this to my local brewstuff supplier (Mike Williams, American Brewmaster in Raleigh), he told me that the proper way to use oak chips involves repeatedly pre-boiling them in clean water until all the tannin is leached out (eg when the water remains clear after several minutes of boiling). Adding these chips to the 2ndary ferment is claimed to give the beer a "smooth" flavor. I'm going to try this on a 1 gal. sub-batch the next time I brew to see if it really has a positive effect; It's not intuitively obvious that the chips should have any effect at all after having had most, if not all, of the volatile compounds boiled out of them. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 09:55 EST >From: Rob Malouf <RMALOUF at MSRC.SUNYSB.EDU> Subject: Irish Lager recipe? Does anyone have or know of a recipe for an Irish lager? I am looking for something along the lines of Guiness Gold. I am pretty new at brewing, so if no recipes are forthcoming, I would also appreciate any guesses that might help me work out my own. Thanks! - --- Rob Malouf Marine Sciences Research Center rmalouf at msrc.sunysb.edu State University of New York at Stony Brook Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 10:20:14 EST >From: "Justin A. Aborn" <jaborn at BBN.COM> Subject: Yeast Culturing I just bought a book at my local homebrew shop about yeast culturing. It does not attempt to teach how to refine strains of yeast or anything like that. It teaches sterile technique and how to "can" growing media, pitching solutions, and priming solutions. The claim is that with absolute sterility you can produce large amounts of perfectly uncontaminated yeast cultures. It goes on to claim that using these large, perfect cultures your beer will taste much better than if you use the techniques we are all familiar with. Has anybody heard anything like this? Last I knew, yeast put out their own pesticides that killed non-yeast invaders. If they do this, why do I have to be *so* careful as long as I start with a reasonable yeast population? Justin, Brewer and Patriot Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 10:54:53 -0500 >From: dbreiden at mentor.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Re: Hop plugs Bob Devine asks about hop plugs: I have been referring to them as compressed hops, but the name matters not :-) OK, compared to fresh hops: I'd say that they are just as good. But then I'm not real picky. They do "uncompress" in the wort and soon it looks as though you've got the real thing floating about. And I've got no complaints about aroma or flavor. Compared to pellets: I will avoid pellets until the end of my days. The fresh or compressed hops are much easier to remove from the wort, and I like to see something that looks like hops rolling about in my wort. Pellets look like animal feed. Though again, I'm not real picky, so I haven't noticed a definite flavor or aroma difference between the compressed hops and the pellets. In general, I like to go with thaat which has been processed less. I think the compressed fits that bill over the pellets, and fresh wins in that category. Compressed beats fresh in storage, though. Give 'em a try. I bet you'll be pleased. For a tasty treat, as you remove your hops from the wort, find a nice big flower and put in your mouth and suck on it--WOW! We're talking serious flavor. Sometimes the best part of homebrew is making it. At other times it is drinking that is the fun. It's nice that it is so well balanced. - --Danny Boy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 10:40:17 EST >From: hersh at coco.ctc.tasc.com (Jay Hersh) Subject: Hop Plugs, Kegs, etc. Danny Boy are you sure the beer (particularly the Sam Smith) was fresh?? I have been doing a little judge training with a friend. Last night we had a DAB. It was awful, not cause it's an awful beer, just that this particular bottle was terribly stale and oxidized. It had the most fetid taste of boiled cardboard. Now it does take some training to learn how to isolate and discern different off flavors. I have found that while many people can identify BAD beer they frequently can't isolate why it is bad. Perhaps the particular beers you were tasting had spoiled. I have enjoyed the Sam Smiths products fresh and have found them very enjoyable. I highly doubt that preservatives are used, it is pretty unusual for a brewery to use preservatives. BTW - the oatmeal stout was mine, but I don't have it in electronic form. Someone else posted a modification and post-brew comments. If somebody has it in electrnoic form please re-post, otherwise I'll retype it at some point HOP PLUGS: Great idea!! Same leaf hops compressed and vacuum sealed for freshness. Since they take up substantially less space this way it increases the likelihood that suppliers will keep them stored cold. Vacuum sealing also helps prevent spoilage. Get yourself a muslin hop boiling bag, toss in the desired amount, tie loosely to allow room for expansion, and toss the bag in the brew!! This allows for the same extraction as if you used them loose but no straining is needed!! I am sold on the plugs, and highly recommend them. SODA Kegs: One big reason for using soda kegs is cleaning. Pony kegs are hard to clean. It is hard (and sometimes even dangerous) to remove the fittings. Most breweries that use the normal kegs have special equipment and use caustic cleaners. Soda kegs have a big oval lid that makes cleaning inside real easy. Other factors are parts availability. Soda kegs are handled through restaurant and/or carbonic products suppliers. There are typically a lot of these. Additionally the 3 and 5 gallon sizes are more conducive to the batch sizes most homebrewers brew in. Cost is not necessarily a factor as the cheapest of my Cornelius kegs was $35 used. I have heard you can either appropriate them or often find them cheaper, but the ones I bought were re-conditioned so I know the seals are good. I have been pretty happy with this sytem and find it very convenient. - Jay H (Dr. Beer) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 10:45:51 EST >From: hersh at coco.ctc.tasc.com (Jay Hersh) Subject: Dr. Beer Seminar in Boston Hey I almost forgot. Steve Stroud and I are planning a Dr. Beer Seminar in Boston. The selected date is Saturdat January, 19th, 1991. This is the day before the Boston Brew Off hosted by Barley-Malt & Vine. We hope to hold the event at the Sunset Grill, a local spot with a good range of imports and microbrews. This will offer people a chance to 1) Train their palates 2) Subsequently apply their new training drinking at the Sunset and 3) Perhaps also judging at the Boston Brew Off the following day. Cost is $5. We need at least 15 people to make it worth our while. Please respond via e-mail to hersh at coco.ctc.tasc.com to express your interest. If there is sufficient interest I will post formal sign up information. Advance payment will be required to guarantee attendance. This is necessry since there is advance preparation and material purchase so please keep this in mind when you decide if you'd like to attend. - Jay H (Dr. Beer) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 09:49:37 PST >From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: Re: Sparge water preparation Mark Montgomery, in a private note I hope he doesn't mind me paraphrasing, asks for some hard numbers concerning lactic acid in sparge water. I must confess that the times I've done the sparge water acidification process with calcium carbonate buffering I used my deeply-ingrained Italian cooking techniques: "gee, I'll bet ... that much calcium carbonate will be perfect!" Tell you what---I'll be brewing this weekend, so I'll get in touch with you on Monday with accurate measurements. As a rough guess: I diluted about 1/2 fl. oz. of 85% lactic acid solution (you got yours at Great Fermentations? I called them about a month and a half ago, as well as virtually every other homebrew shop in the Bay area, and got responses ranging from "huh?" through "yea, we got it; m-a-l-i-c, lactic acid, right?" to "acidifying your *what* water?" I got mine at Custom Chem Lab in Livermore, your basic beer-plus-industrial-chemical supply outlet) in 8 ozs. distilled water. I had 4.5 gallons of sparge water (distilled, or actually distilled+purified; it's hard to get distilled water sometimes) into which I sprinkled about 1/2 tsp. of calcium carbonate and 1 tsp. of gypsum (I was making a light wheat beer, so I figured I'd need some gypsum in the wort anyway). I ended up adding about 1/3, or 4 ozs., of my acid mix to bring the pH down to 5.7. Having an electronic pH tester is a real convenience, as well as a great way to blow $80. It was quite easy to incrementally adjust the pH. The first time I tried, being a complete chemistry ignoramus I just dribbled about 1 tsp. of an even weaker lactic acid solution straight into distilled water, and watched the pH drop to about 4.8 immediately. I guess that's why I became a computer scientist. My problem with Beermakers is that the man that runs it seems a bit too quaintly crusty to me. Maybe I just don't know him well enough. Anyhow, I guess I'm just too yuppified---I figure if I'm making five gallons of Belgian-style ale, the money I save vis-a-vis buying Chimay is great no matter *what* I do. Thus I buy all my water at Cosentino's or Lucky's or whatever. Which reminds me to suggest you try the Trappist recipe in Dave's book. By all means, reculture Chimay yeast. I've found it to be incredibly healthy and easy to start, as well as being very very clean in the fermenter. The light wheat beer I've got in my closet right now is intended to be something like Duvel, the wheat adding a big frothy head. The other night when I racked it out of the primary, I got a sturdy 2-inch head in my hydrometer flask straight out of the racking hose! If it turns out good I'll post the recipe in HBD. The Chimay-oid beer I made is approaching greatness right now, though I suspect it's indestructible. The OG was about 80, and the yeast brought it down to *5* in about a week. Unbelievable. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 13:58:04 EST >From: pkel at psych.purdue.edu (Paul L. Kelly) Subject: re: hop 'plugs', and pony kegging Yes! I have used the so-called hop plugs, and I have found them to be of much higher quality than many of the leaf hops I have used. They combine the con- venience and stability characteristics of hop pellets, with the advantages of leaf hops (I use leaf hops as a filter bed for straining my malt extract batches). The only brand I have seen yet is made by "Morris Hanbury", and distributed in the U.S. by Crosby and Baker. The selection is limited to Fuggle, Hallertau, Saaz, and Styrian Golding. If anyone else out there knows of another distributer/producer, I'd love to find out. A wider selection of hop varieties would be nice, but apparently (as far as I can tell) this is a new process, and the company is only marketing the four varieties mentioned. re: using commercial kegs It is my understanding that the use of commercial kegs is extremely dangerous, as there is no way for the amateur to insure that internal pressure is at a safe level. I have not heard of anyone being injured by opening a commercial keg, but it certainly seems possible. The 5 gallon cornelius kegs have the advantage of having a pressure release valve, as well as being just the right size for the typical batch of homebrew. I know that personally I am unable to carry a half barrel (15 gal ?) keg, and a pony is at the extreme upper end of my carrying ability. However, a 5 gal. cannister full of beer is not such a big problem to carry. In short, I would dissuade you from trying to keg in commercial type beer kegs, mainly due to safety, but also for the sake of convenience. Cheers, Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 16:06:06 -0600 >From: "J.U.J." <juj33548 at uxa.cso.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #538 (November 16, 1990) please cancel me juj33548 at uxa.cso.uiuc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 18:36 EST >From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: Straining hops, etc., etc. Several comments on HBD # 538: Russ Gelinas was wondering whether crystal malt added any fermentables to the wort. It's my understanding that they do not. What they do add is body and mouth feel. That's why I *always* use at least some crystal malt when doing a combination extract/grain brew. The crystal seems to give the extract some grain character and fullness that a straight extract beer never has. Dan Breiden asked why Sam Smith puts their beer in clear bottles. I've read somewhere that they do something in the brewing process to prevent the "sun struck" effect, should their beers ever get caught in the light. Maybe someone else has more particular information about this. Sparky the Puzzled wanted to know why most of use soda kegs instead of pony kegs. (1) The hatch comes off so you can get your whole arm inside, making them easier to clean. (2) The five-gallon size is just right for a five-gallon batch of beer. (3) It's a hassle getting inside the pony kegs because of the locking ring on the thingamajig that holds the tap in place. As for the issue of whether to do a partial mash along with an extract beer. Yes, it will make the extract beer better. But if you're going to do a partial mash, you might as well do a full mash and make an all-grain beer. There have been a couple of questions lately about straining wort into the fermenter. Most brewers would agree that it's sound brewing practice to achieve as clear a run-off as possible when going from the boiler to the fermenter. For this reason I don't think it's ever a good idea to pour wort directly into the fermenter from the boiling kettle, even through a strainer. With that in mind, I pass along this technique that I recently worked up for siphoning through my flow-through wort chiller. You will need a copper wound pot scrubber (Chore Boy is a popular brand name), the foot from a pair of ladies nylon hose, a fine mesh hop bag, or some "no see 'um netting" from a hiking supply shop, a couple of pieces of copper or stainless wire ties and a rubber band. Assuming you have a plastic or copper crooked-neck pick-up tube, (1) wrap the pot scrubber around the bottom (the end that sticks down into pot of wort) of the pick-up tube. Secure it with one of the wire-ties. (2) Pull the nylon hose or fine-mesh hop bag over the pot scrubber, in effect putting it in a sack, and secure it with the other wire-tie. (3) Tie an overhand knot in the rubber band so that a small 3/8" loop is left in one end. Loop the big loop of the rubber band around and through itself onto the handle of the boiling kettle. (4) Stick the pick-up tube through the small loop of the rubber band and into the kettle, adjusting it so that the the pot scrubber dangles several inches above the trub in the bottom. Once the boil is finished, swirl the wort around in the kettle, creating a whirlpool action. The trub and sediment will gravitate to the center of the pot creating a cone of deposit. Let settle a few minutes. Then siphon into your carboy. As the wort approaches the bottom of the pick-up tube, gently push the tube further through the loop on the rubber band until it just touches the bottom layer of trub. Tip the kettle over on its side until all the wort is siphoned out. As for which is better-nylon hose or the fine mesh hop bag/netting- the hop bag is not as likely to clog towards the end of the siphon. When I use the nylon hose, I begin the wort transfer with the bottom of the pick-up tube about 5 or 6 inches above the level of the trub. Cheers, Kinney Baughman | "Beer is my business and baughmankr at appstate.bitnet | I'm late for work." W Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 16:10:39 PST >From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: Hot Wort! In HOMEBREW Digest #538, John Freeman described his method of separating whole hops from the wort ... > ... Then I strain my wort through the colander. The > hops are collected in the colander ... Then its > ready for the wort chiller - right in the pail. I also primary ferment > right in the same pail. The hot wort sterilizes everything, so no > need to worry. Worry, John. No matter what Charlie says ... ;-> Pouring hot wort, even gently, is an invitation to oxidation. When I started chilling the wort (hops & all) right in the kettle, I was amazed to find my pale ales were clearly lighter in color, and more stable in the bottle. Having said that, no, I can't explain why a "coolship" doesn't oxidize the Hell out the beer. Perhaps the answer lies in the surface:volume ratio. And concerning the Great Oak Controversy: I too felt oddly relieved to read Terry Foster's words on the (extremely mild) influence of oak on IPA. I'd tried adding oak chips to the secondary, and didn't like the result. If I ever do it again I'll probably follow Cher's advice and boil out not only the tannins, but most of the other flavor components, as well. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 14:32:06 PST >From: hsfmsh.UUCP!suurb at cgl.ucsf.EDU (Dave Suurballe) Subject: beer kegs vs. soda cans In #538 Sparky asks about pony kegs vs. soda kegs. I can't answer for all of us, obviously, but I can answer for myself. I use both, and I prefer the soda cans because they are cheaper (used or new), easier to clean (you can get your arm into a soda can), and more conveniently sized for my batches. A pony keg is good for a party because it looks like real beer. Many people have seen beer kegs and know they contain beer. Not many people have seen soda cans, and they don't know what's in them. At a big party where most of the people are not familiar with flavor profiles like the one you're about to unleash, its best to prejudice them early and in any way you can that this is beer. (Color and clarity help, too, but that's off the subject). Small soda cans (three gallons) are good for parties because they are more portable. I know this contradicts the "image" argument, so take your pick. There seem to be more types of beer kegs than soda cans. You got your Golden Gate, your Sankey, your Grundy, and your Hoff-Stevens on the one hand, and pin-lock (CocaCola) and ball-lock (7Up, Pepsi, et al.) on the other. This may not matter if you know no other brewers, but if you do, it's good to have compatable equipment. The local San Francisco club has adopted, without discussion or explicit agreement, the ball-lock soda can as standard. This is convenient when sharing equipment at brewing functions and when one's needs exceed one's hardware configuration. One guy did buy some Coke stuff once, but he got rid of it because it was too inconvenient. (Because it was different from everybody else's, not because it works any different). I think the Sacramento club is on the Coke standard, and some of them may be listening right now. Maybe we'll hear from them, too. Suurballe Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 90 17:14:16 PST >From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: Blowoff Redux In HOMEBREW Digest #538, John DeCarlo responded to a response to Kevin Carpenter's question on blowoff: >>From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU >>Kevin Carpenter wonders about using 5 or 7 gallon carboys >>for primary fermentation. I strongly recommend using 5 gallon >>carboys so that you get some blow-off. I think you'll find that >>some of the residual astringency that lingers in the aftertaste >>of some homebrews will disappear with the blow-off system ... >I have heard this. I have also heard that using the blow-off >method doesn't really make any difference in the bitterness or >astringency of your brew ... And this has been exactly my experience. >So, has anyone tried brewing two identical batches except for >blow-off? Not me. Similar, but not identical. > Also, do any commercial brewers do any kind of blow-off or > skimming? Nothing of the sort was mentioned in any tours I have > taken. My "local", the Rubicon (whose IPA did rather spectacularly, once again, at the Great American Beer Festival), uses a variation on the blowoff theme. Any inferences drawn from this are strictly at your own risk; I tend to credit the overall excellence of Phil Moeller's brewing, rather than that stainless steel tube in the top of the tank. The systems I can think of that seem similar to blowoff at first glance, the Burton Union system and the Yorkshire Stone Square, actually function as yeast recirculation systems, and don't remove anything, as blowoff does. As I said a few days ago in a posting that only partially appeared here, my non-blowoff batches are neither astringent nor unpleasantly bitter, and my principal impression of blowoff is that it's wasteful and an infection risk. That's why I changed over to a large carboy. It may have been useful when we homebrewers were using less sophisticated ingredients, techniques and recipes, but no more. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 90 01:46 PST >From: JUPITER at spd.3mail.3com.com Subject: Undelivered Mail. Server not responding: MAIL005:HQDEV:3Com 0Failed to deliver to the following recipients: Dave Korn:HQDEV:3Com - ------------------- Original Message ---------------------------- Date: 11-16-90 1:28am >From: {homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hpl.hp.com}:ugate:3Com To: Dave Korn:HQ:3Com Subj: Homebrew Digest #538 (November 16, 1990) Attach: \attach.fil - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Due to the large size of this message, it has been converted into an attachment. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 90 12:41:37 -0600 >From: Todd Enders - WD0BCI <enders at plains.NoDak.edu> Subject: Small Scale Mashing Mashing small batches *works*! I've been doing this for quite a while now, and I've had nothing but success with it. I usually make 2 gal. batches, scaling the recipes by multiplying everything by .4. Hop rates might need some tweaking, but they usually do anyway. The only other pitfall is obtaining an efficient sparge. Mine have been running 90% of theoretical extraction, so I think I have a handle on it. My lauter tun is a two bucket affair using 5 qt. plastic pails. This gives an average grain bed depth of 5-6 inches. Presumably, anything < 4 inches gives trouble with extraction, filtration, etc. It takes me about 1 hour to sparge 3 gallons plus the initial runnings. My wort is always clear, so no worries there. With less wort to boil, it's easier to boil, and with the larger area you will loose a bit more volume during the boil than with the 'normal' size batches. I loose around 6 qts of volume during a 90 min boil in a 22 qt canning kettle. With a more vigorous boil, hop utilization is better, so if you are scaling a recipe, you might want to round any inconvienient fraction of hop weight down. i.e. if your scaled recipe needed .7 oz of hops, .5 would in all likelyhood be better than .75, but feel free to experiment. In any case, I'd recommend mashing small batches highly! I'd never go back to extract batches, and I get the chance to experiment more. Further, if for some strange reason a batch doesn't turn out, you are out less with a 2 gal. batch than with a 5 or 10 gal batch. And if you do come up with a good recipe, it's just a matter of scaling up. For the extract brewer, it gives you the chance to play with all grain without the investment in larger kettles, grain mills, etc. The experience you will get is exactly the same, and I think it's a good first step into the world of all grain. Try it! =============================================================================== Todd Enders - WD0BCI ARPA: enders at plains.nodak.edu Computer Center UUCP: ...!uunet!plains!enders Minot State University or: ...!hplabs!hp-lsd!plains!enders Minot, ND 58701 Bitnet: enders at plains "The present would be full of all possible futures, if the past had not already projected a pattern upon it" - Andre' Gide =============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 90 18:50:26 GMT >From: sbsgrad%sdphs2.span at Sds.Sdsc.Edu Subject: kegging responces >From: "Sparky" <sslade at ucsd.edu> (Steve Slade) Date sent: 18-NOV-1990 10:51:35 PT My thanks to all who replied so quickly to my question about why soda kegs are used for beer. In particular, Glenn Colon-Bonet, Steve Dempsey, Rick Goldberg, and Chris Shenton were all very helpfull. Here is my own summary of the reasons soda kegs are better than regular old beer kegs for homebrewing. 1: Soda kegs are relatively cheap, especially if purchased used. 2: Beer kegs are very hard to clean unless you have a special high pressure cleaning rig. Soda kegs, however, have a large lid which can be removed, allowing hand cleaning of the entire inside of the keg. 3: Soda kegs happen to hold 5 gallons, which is a very convenient size for most homebrewers. 4: Soda kegs are tall and thin, so that three or four of them can fit in a standard fridge, while only one standard beer keg will fit in the same fridge. 5: Lastly, there is the question of how do you fill a beer keg. This is the question I was hoping someone could answere in my original posting. If anyone out there has any experience with filling beer kegs, please let me know! After getting all this information, I wonder if it is worth my while to hold onto the pony keg that I got for free. Seems it may be more hassle than it is worth. Then again, I've never been one to worry.... Thanks again! Sparky Internet: sslade at ucsd.edu UUCP: ...ucsd!sslade Bitnet: sslade at ucsd.bitnet DECnet/SPAN: SDPH1::SBSGRAD Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 90 17:35:17 EST >From: jma at gnu.AI.MIT.EDU (John Adams) Just a couple quick questions.. I live in boston, and was wondering where I could get Champaine Yeast (Average cost/etc..) [I'm trying to make mead!]... Also, do you know if its good to manufacture mead in a plastic springwater container (like the ones used for office water coolers; and does anyone know of a shop that sells fermentation locks for these type of bottles..? thanks again! Oh yes, one other question... Do brewing supply companies ask for ID? (Have you ever been carded buying yeast or the like?) Thanks! Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #539, 11/19/90 ************************************* -------
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