---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
        TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 

                 Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
     Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how
			 
    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any 
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your 
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available 
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
  Force Carbonation.. ("Doug Lasanen")
  Force Carbonation ("A.J deLange")
  How to delead ("iris.accountants@gmail.com")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*           The HBD Logo Store is now open!             *
*            http://www.hbd.org/store.html              *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*   Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!   *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to 
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to 
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you

 
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
  "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
  ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
  the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address
  for the automation - that's your job.

HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.

LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright 
  HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK 
  before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content 
  cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to 
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
                  and Spencer Thomas



----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 07:29:57 -0400
From: "Doug Lasanen" <Dlasanen at fuse.net>
Subject: Force Carbonation..

Tim Hamrick asks about "Forced Carbonation"

Here's my procedure that works everytime.  Rack beer to clean and sanitary 
keg.  Remove air by adding small amount of co2 and purging a couple times. 
Chill overnite........Then raise regulator pressure to 25 to 30 psi. 
Replace the normal "In" adaptor (Grey if Ball lock keg) with an "Out" 
adaptor. (Black if Ball lock Keg).  Place that hose with adaptor on the Keg 
"OUT"......Shake the keg for 30 to 45 seconds while co2 is going in.  This 
will get the co2 into suspension.  Place keg back into fridge for a couple 
hours to overnite...........Next, pour a pint........you may need to relieve 
some pressure, as it will have a bit too much pressure, but will not be 
"Over Carbonated".........then set regulator to your normal serving 
pressure, 8psi works good for me, and reattach hose to the "IN" connection.

I have 3 to 4 feet of hose on each of my kegs and get a perfect pour most 
every time.  If I take a get on a road trip and just use the tap with no 
hose, then I will have "Over Carbonation".

Hope this helps!

Cheers!

Doug Lasanen
Bloatarion Brewing Leage
Cincinnati, Ohio 




Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 09:12:26 -0400
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Force Carbonation

Patience! It takes a long time for a large quantity of beer, especially
in a Sankey Keg to get fully carbonated. For me it is usually at least a
week before I see any carbonation, two weeks before the beer is
sufficiently carbonated to drink and three before I'm at the level I
like. Then in takes months for the CO2 to really meld with the beer and
produce the meringue like head I look for in my lagers. The reason it
takes a long time is that in a keg you have a rather tall column of beer
and the CO2 only contacts it at the surface so that is where it
initially dissolves. When CO2 dissolves the "chemical potential" (a
function of the concentration in the solution) of CO2 in the beer
increases and will continue to do so until it equals the chemical
potential in the head space (a function of the CO2 pressure). What
drives the flow of CO2 into the beer is the difference in chemical
potential and as the beer takes up gas this difference decreases and so
does the flow. It is also a chemical portential gradient along the
column of beer that causes CO2 to diffuse downward. What I am trying to
get across is that the flow at the surface is decreasing even before the
bottom of the keg has received an appreciable amount of CO2.

The way to speed up the process is to make the potential difference
between gas and beer uniform throughout the volume and this is done in
two ways. The method used by the pros is to disperse the CO2 throughout
the beer in tiny bubbles by use of a carbonation "stone" which is
typically a hollow sintered stainless steel cylinder closed at one end
and into the other end of which CO2 is admitted. The method usually used
by homebrewers is to mix the beer which they do by attaching a gas line
to a Corny keg and then inverting it or rolling it. If you do this you
will hear the regulator passing gas as the keg is agitated thus
indicating that CO2 is dissolving. I prefer to just put it on line and
let the keg sit because this is sort of enforced lagering time. By the
time the beer is carbonated sufficiently to drink most of the yeast has
dropped, most of the junkbuket has dissipated and it's better beer.

The following 2 formulas may be useful to you. They are fits to
the ASBC carbonation tables and thus replace them:


V = 3.2694 + 0.076221*P - 0.042274*T

where P is in psig and T in Fahrenheit is valid over a range of 32 to
60 F, is subject to rms disagreement with the published table of
0.003 volumes and exhibits a peak error of 0.15 Vol.

V = 3.4281 + 0.14562*P  - 0.07437*T -  6.6194E-5*P*P -
        0.0012952*P*T + 0.00053484*T*T

is more accurate. RMSE is 0.00006 Vols with a peak error of 0.034
WRT the table. Whereas you can go somewhat outside the given
range of temperature and pressure with the first because it it linear
you do so at your peril with the second.


Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 08:00:03 -0700
From: "iris.accountants at gmail.com" <iris.accountants@gmail.com>
Subject: How to delead

Hello,
How to delead?  What should I watch out for?  Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you so much.
Thankyou,
Susan


Return to table of contents

---