FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Sponsor The Home Brew Digest! Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to: HBD Server Fund PO Box 871309 Canton Township, MI 48187-6309 or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available sponsorship opportunities. *************************************************************** Contents: (Joe Dunne) Re: Cider (Tim Bray) plate chillers questions (Paul Hethmon)
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:18:05 -0500 From: Joe Dunne <jrdunne at hotmail.com> Subject: Jim asked about reculturing Oberon yeast and how to tell if it's gone wrong. Short of plating it and looking at it under a microscope, I'm not sure how you'd know before fermenting with it. For my two cents, it's not worth risking the batch. I've had two batches go horribly wrong in over 15 years. One was recultured yeast from a Rochefort bottle (IIRC) that took a long time to take off, like you describe. The other (recently) was a batch that took 48 hours to start in the carboy. Both attributable to different problems. Both undrinkable. Since the recultured yeast is essentially free, I say buy another six pack of Oberon and try again. Joe Dunne Chicago Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 16:24:11 -0700 From: Tim Bray <tbray at wildblue.net> Subject: Re: Cider Beer always contains residual sweetness from unfermented sugars; cider rarely does. That's why a slightly sour beer (e.g. Berlinerweisse, Geuze, etc) can still be drinkable. But even the slightest sourness in cider is instantly detectable and quickly overwhelms the taste buds. (Hmm, maybe that's why I don't like tart juice for my ciders: perhaps I'm always getting some Lacto contamination...) Someone else mentioned the traditional Norman (French) method of starving the yeast by precipitating a pectin clot. A few people have successfully done this in the States but it is not easy. It does yield a magnificent cider if you can get it to work. I often say that cider is easier to make than beer, but it's much harder to make _great_ cider than great beer. Cheers, Tim in Albion, California Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 15:35:33 -0400 From: Paul Hethmon <phethmon at hethmon.com> Subject: plate chillers questions I'm considering purchasing a plate chiller and found a place called DudaDiesel: http://www.dudadiesel.com/heat_exchangers.php Does anyone have any experience with them? Comparing to Shirron or Blichmann on surface area and price: Shirron, 0.4 sq meters, $99 Blichmann, 0.6 sq meters, $199 DudaDiesel, 0.5 sq meters $89 DudaDiesel, 0.7 sq meters $135 All list the same construction, all stainless plates with pure copper brazing. I'm just brewing 5 gallon batches, but the groundwater here in Knoxville Tennessee is running about 76 right now. My current immersion chiller is taking way too long to cool. Though I have thought of turning it into a pre-chiller for a plate chiller. thanks, Paul Hethmon Tennessee Valley Homebrewers Return to table of contents
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