HOMEBREW Digest #578 Fri 08 February 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Brewpubs in Denver/Boulder (Dick Dunn)
  RE: Stainless Boiler (John C. Van Hove)
  Coffee in homebrew (Jon Binkley)
  Digest #573 (rdg)
  Gas Burners ("MR. DAVID HABERMAN")
  Recipie Archives (lutzen)
  road trip ("CAE2::FALOUIS")
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #577 (February 06, 1991) (Jim Garlick)
  Gusher again (Jeff Chambers)
  odd smell (Seth Adam Eliot)
  The recipe file is ready! (Lynn Gold)
  Beer with honey (chip upsal)
  Homebrewed Wort chiller (Norm Hardy)
  EKU-28 ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  SN yeast culture (Russ Gelinas)
  Cheap Chillers (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Re: Crackin grain ("st. stephen")
  Priming Question... (James Kolasa)
  Search for Large Stainless Boiler (Don McDaniel)
  Solving boilover (BAUGHMANKR)
  uncappable domestic champagne bottles (jonm)
  Re: Homemade Wort Chillers ?  (wicinski)
  Steam beers (SU0751A)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 6 Feb 91 00:55:05 MST (Wed) From: ico.isc.com!rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: Re: Brewpubs in Denver/Boulder Jon Binkley writes: > In response to Mark Castleman's query, Denver and Boulder each have one > brewpub. While I disagree with some other points of Jon's, I have to give him credit for following the advice some of us have been giving about Boulder for a while--namely "forget Boulder Brewery!" (which he did, completely...'nuff said there:-). > The Walnut Brewery in Boulder is currently *THE* chic spot in Boulder. That may change. Cheer up, Jon...maybe a few yuppies will learn about decent beer in the process. Nothing stays popular with yuppies for too long; they have an attention span seldom reaching a year for anything like this. The brewery is repaying loans and making money...which a lot of new brewpubs never do. > There is always a line outside to get in. It is where the beautiful > people go to be seen. Once inside you get to pay a lot for food > and drink beer which is quite chilled and quite carbonated. I haven't had to wait much. If they're getting that much business, so much the better...I'd like to see them rewarded compared to Boulder Brewery because their beer is a lot better. I've been there and I ain't beautiful people! The beer is colder than it needs to be, but hardly the maltsicles you get at some bars. To my tastes the carbonation is almost right. (I'm not arguing with Jon so much as offering another opinion.) Some of the food is good; some is admittedly yuppie-silliness. (duck enchiladas? gimme a break!) They'll sort that out as long as they keep making good beer. The bitter is the best of the lot. Buffalo Gold is good for warm weather or wimpy companions. Forget the wheat. The brown and the stout are OK. > While also very popular, you can usually at least get through the > door of the Wynkoop Brewery in downtown Denver... And that's not Yuppieville??? A few blocks down from the financial district? >...The food is decent and reasonably priced... They need to figure out fish'n'chips...which is *not* supposed to be grease'n'batter with a side of starch. They also need a source of bangers that taste like bangers. Generally the food is good, but they have some notable weak points. >...They have a full range of beers, my favorites > being the Bitter and IPA, both served from hand-pumps... They certainly manage a good set of adequately-hopped beers in English style (which some would call "warm and flat" but which connoisseurs will recognize as "cellar temperature and moderately carbonated":-). Beyond having a very good set of beers and good food, the Wynkoop is of real interest to homebrewers for the particular reason that Russ Scherer (?sp?), the brewmaster, got into this whole thing after winning Homebrewer of the Year at the AHA annual some years ago. (Is Darryl going down a similar path?:-) It's a success story where a lot of brewpubs have done poorly because (occasionally) they couldn't make good beer or (far more often) they couldn't see the difference between homebrewing and running a business. O,BTW...it's pronounced wine-coop, which can save you two rube-points when you go there. --- Dick Dunn rcd at raven.eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 09:46:13 EST From: vanhovej at LONEX.RADC.AF.MIL (John C. Van Hove) Subject: RE: Stainless Boiler > I used my Coleman "Powerhouse" white gas camp stove for a batch or 2. > It was much better than the electric stove, but didn't feel it was > designed to run that hot, that long. So I sprung for ?35,000 btu cast > iron propane burner and lived happily ever after. I think they go for > around $70 now, well worth it. I have been looking for one of these for quite a while now and as soon as I can commit some space in my basement or garage (too many projects going at any given time) I plan on moving out of the kitchen. That should make my wife happy! Your guess of 35000 BTU is right on and I've watched one of those things bring a double batch of Rocky Raccoon (12 gallons) to a boil in no time flat. My father has been using that burner for a year or so now and he can get his 12 gallons to boil faster than I can with the 3 or 4 gallons that I usually use. I checked around town a bit and found that I can get one from the local welding supply shop for about $45. I think I'll grab one when I go down there to get the CO2 tank for my new kegging setup. Wish me luck! VH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 07:51:20 -0700 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Coffee in homebrew Has anyone used coffee to flavor a porter or stout? How much should one add for a 5 gallon batch? How fine should the beans be chopped/ground? Thanks in advance, Jon Binkley binkley at boulder.colorado.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 91 10:47:41 MST From: rdg Subject: Digest #573 Full-Name: Rob Gardner - Pro Hacker The archiver now contains digest #573 for those of you that missed it. Sorry that I cannot respond to individual requests for back issues. BTW, there are more than 1000 subscribers now on the main mailing list. Rob Return to table of contents
Date: 6 Feb 91 08:47:00 PDT From: "MR. DAVID HABERMAN" <habermand at afal-edwards.af.mil> Subject: Gas Burners In Digest #576 Don McDaniel saays: >is a standrd stockpot that will cover only one burner. I've found >in my 16 qt. partial mashes that it takes an eternity to bring that >volume to a boil. I can't imagine getting seven gallons to a boil >with only one burner. I don't know of anyone that uses their kitchen stove for mashing since, as you noticed, it takes too long. I know several people who use gas water heater burners. You can probably get them for free from people throwing out dead water heaters. Most of the time they get replaced due to water leaks and the burners are fine. They put out about 35,000 to 40,000 BTU which is fine for bringing 5-7 gallons to a boil. I am looking for a 100,000 BTU burner to use for 15 gallons. You could hook it into the gas line for your clothes dryer in the garage or basement or maybe in the kitchen. I think you can also get some parts to make them work with propane. - David A. Haberman Email: habermand at afal-edwards.af.mil Benny's Bait Shop and Sushi Bar - "Today's Bait is Tomorrow's Plate!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 12:51:44 CST From: lutzen at phys1.physics.umr.edu (lutzen) Subject: Recipie Archives To all who are wanting or working on the Recipe Archives: This is a little project I've been working on in my spare time (very little of, that is). I have made some major headway in achieving this goal in the last few days, but if other people are interested in this project and have some work done or would like to help, there is no reason why we could not work together. I sent a note to Bob Whitehead about this, but have not heard back from him. So here is a suggestion: I will finish up the extractions from the archives, and will share my files with those who wish to reformat them into the various file formats of their own desire. However, (here's the gotcha), the only thing I ask is for people to E-MAIL me direct. (I can't believe am putting myself in front of the target like this. Oh well, I'll just have a homebrew.) Anyone who is interested in assisting, editing, CONTRIBUTING RECIPIES, etc., please E-MAIL me direct at: Karl Lutzen lutzen at apollo.physics.umr.edu University of Missouri - Rolla c0537 at umrvmb.umr.edu Physics Dept. 314-341-6317 (in order of decreasing preference) Return to table of contents
Date: 6 Feb 91 13:06:00 EDT From: "CAE2::FALOUIS" <sdrc!falouis%cae2.decnet%cae19 at uunet.UU.NET> Subject: road trip a friend and i are going to be taking a road trip from cincinnati to san diego around the third week of march. along the way we will be going thru indianapolis, st.louis, kansas city, denver on i-70 and las vegas on i-15. any info on interesting brew type places along the way would be highly appreciated. thanks in advance, bill hull Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 14:16:34 PST From: Jim Garlick <garlick at ecst.csuchico.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #577 (February 06, 1991) thanx! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 12:19:43 CST From: motcid!red!chambers at uunet.UU.NET (Jeff Chambers) Subject: Gusher again Thanks to all who responded to the gusher problem. From those inputs, I have deduced that the most likely cause for gushing in my case is due to Premature Bottling. Going back over my notes I was in a bit of a hurry (Not Relaxing mind you) to bottle this batch before the Christmas Holiday Season (seeing it is a Xmas beer). This explains why the first few batchs didn't seem to gush at all, while now it splews for a good 5 minutes. I'm not ruling out an infection because Although I clean all the equipment thoroughly when I brew, I probably ought to give everything a good scrubbing. Thanks again for your input. Jeff Chambers (uunet!motcid!chambers) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 22:16:59 -0500 (EST) From: Seth Adam Eliot <se08+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: odd smell This is only the third batch that I've brewed, but this is a first for this problem. The beer has an odd "sulfurous" smell. I describe it as "sulfurous" becuase of its similarity to the "rotten egg" sulfur compound smell. (not nearly as strong or noxious though). The beer is a Mount Mellick brown ale, made using a hopped malt extract, with some extra hops thrown in for good measure. The smell was evident when the beer was in the fermentor and has carried over to the bottled and conditioned product. I don't know if it is truly a sulfur compound, and possibly caused by sulfites (used liberally to clean all equipment and bottles), or exactly WHAT it is. any ideas? -Seth se08 at andrew.cmu.edu Carnegie-Mellon U., Pgh PA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 19:55:21 PST From: figmo at mica.berkeley.edu (Lynn Gold) Subject: The recipe file is ready! It's in Unix mail format (that is, you can type "mail -f beer.txt" and read individual entries). It's read-protected and living on "eris.Berkeley.Edu" in the file "/net/mica/eris/figmo/beer.txt" for your ftp'ing pleasure. Enjoy! - --Lynn Return to table of contents
Date: 06 Feb 91 23:56:49 EST From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com> Subject: Beer with honey >Have any of you out there had any experience using honey in >extract recepies? What I had in mind was a mild Ale (say about >4 pounds of DME) with between 1/2 and 1 pound of honey added >to boost the alcohol content and give a dryer character. Will >this work well? Will the fermentation take much longer than >normal? >Randy Yes it does work well. I have made light lager with one pound of honey and 4 lbs extract. It lightened the body and increased the achol. Yes the fermentation did last a bit longer and the aging was slowed a bit also. Chip Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 20:48:14 PST From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Homebrewed Wort chiller I've been using a homemade copper coiled immersion wort chiller for 3 years with great results. The main expense is the copper and some copper welding, if you want to get fancy. Just take care how you wrap it. 3/8 inch seems a good diameter to use, although others may find success in larger sizes. Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Feb 91 10:11:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: EKU-28 About seven years ago, when I lived in Southern California, I used to have a beer at a German restaurant called EKU-28. It was about 13 or 14% alcohol. I don't know if it even was technically a beer, but I liked it at the time. (I don't know if I still would). I have tried to find it since and meet with stares and blank expressions. I know it wasn't a fig newton of my imagination, but I sure can't find it or anyone who has ever heard of it out here in New England. Am I mentally deranged, or is/was there such a thing as EKU-28. If so, is it still made, or can it be approximated at home? Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 1991 11:44:38 EST From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: SN yeast culture Chris S. had a problem with culturing SN yeast. I've also tried to culture it (3 times), also with no luck. I'm in New Hampshire, and had also wondered if being on the Right coast was the problem. With his posting I'm more convinced that the trip back east is too much for the yeast (pardon the rhyme). I've also noticed that the yeast in *my* SN bottles is not necessarily pasted to the bottom of the bottle (it's mostly on the bottom, but loosely), which is in disagreement with what people on the list have said about *their* bottles having a solid bottom mass of yeast. This may also be an indication of travel-weariness. In any event, I've given up on culturing it. I have cultured a Wyeast strain from a batch I had brewed in May 1990, so I know it (culturing) can be done, but apparently not with SN yeast back east. Russ Gelinas Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 91 11:34:37 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at decwrl.dec.com> Subject: Cheap Chillers In HOMEBREW Digest #577, the celebrated Bill Thacker inquired: > I've seen ads for immersion wort chillers; priced under $30, as I > recall. But it looked to me like they were nothing more complicated than > a coil of copper tubing with a hose clamped on each end and a faucet > fitting on one hose. Seems like that would be easy to make at home > for under ten bucks. Am I missing something important ? (Like, oh, > say, "copper and homebrew react to form an unstable fissionable > compound." 8-) ... and the world, as we know it, will collapse into the Void. I've seen those ads too, and they remind me that quantity pricing is a wondrous thing. In my area, the going rate for a 50' roll of 3/8" soft copper tubing is in the near vicinity of $20, even at the "warehouse" stores. Add a compression fitting on each end, with a 3/8"-male-pipe-to-1/4"-female-pipe bushing and a 1/4" hose barb, and you're in the $25 range before you've even looked at the plastic tubing or the Gilmore fitting or whatever you choose to use. I've never tried just clamping to the copper, for fear of leaks. This type of chiller is indeed easy to make, and easy to use. I believe it to be a Good Thing(tm) to have, but you might as well make it rather than buy it, especially if you have a cheaper source than I do for copper tubing. The first one I made used 100' of 1/4" tubing, and looked like a potful of spaghetti, when in use. My present one, using 50' of 3/8" tubing, chills faster but uses more water. A note concerning maintenance of immersion chillers: with my first one, I made only a token effort to get the water out of the coils after use, because it wasn't easy, and because, after all, that water would never touch the beer, would it? Then we had an unusually hard freeze, and the chiller burst in many places ... = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Tactical Planning/Support = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 91 12:49:30 EST From: sct60a.sunyct.edu!sct60a.sunyct.edu!yagerk at sct60a.sunyct.edu (Kevin Yager) To any of you who may be lucky enough to live in dairy country, I thought I would let you in on a cheap piece of brewing equipment. A milking machine. Old milking machine pails are great. They are usually stainless steel. Contain from 4 - 7 gallons. Usually come with a sealable lid (though you may have to plug a few extra holes). Best of all, since they are becoming outdated as dairying equipment, a buyer may be able to buy 2 or 4 of them for $20 at an auction. I happen to have one (I've heard they are usefully distilling accessories) when brewing my first batch of homebrew, so I had planned on using it for a priming pail. Then I smashed my carboy. So I used my milking machine for a fermenter and baught a second to use for priming. Milking machine pails can be used on the stove, then don't break, and they have sturdy handles. Kevin Yager yagerk at sct60a.sunyct.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 91 13:37:01 EST From: "st. stephen" <ST402836 at brownvm.brown.edu> Subject: Re: Crackin grain Howdy, >andy T. asked about cracking grains. I just recently had to crack a >couple of lbs. of crystal (my supplier was cleaning her mill). I used >a coffee grinder, after having cleaned out any coffee dust. It is one <stuff deleted> >will turn your grain into fine dust pretty quick if you're not careful. How fine are you supposed to crack the grain? I understand that the purpose is to expose the starchy inside to the water, but it seems you're supposed to avoid crusing it to a dust. Why? To avoid sediment (ie. so you can strain it out easier?) Any info would be much appreciated. thanks, steve Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 1991 13:59:34 EST From: James Kolasa <jkolasa at ms.uky.edu> Subject: Priming Question... I have a batch of pseudo-Imperial Stout ready to bottle and I discovered last evening that I had no corn sugar (actually I discovered that my cat had torn open the bag...this also explains the white powder all over her nose, I had imagined the worst). My question is, can I prime for bottling using dry malt? If so, how much should I use (I usually use 3/4 cup corn sugar)? I seem to remember mention of converting between corn sugar and dry malt, but can't remember the rough amounts. So, has anyone tried this? Will it work? I must know! The Kolasabrau cannot wait! I know I know...."relax..." jk - -- - -- James Kolasa | Where do I get a nifty name like "Bell -- - -- 121 Moloney, L.C.C. | Biv Devoe"?!?! -- - -- Lexington, Ky. 40506-0235 | -- - --jkolasa at [ms.uky.edu/ukpr.uky.edu/UKMA.BITNET] {rutgers,uunet}!ukma!jkolasa-- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 91 16:20:27 -0700 From: dinsdale at chtm.unm.edu (Don McDaniel) Subject: Search for Large Stainless Boiler I'm giong to try one last time. First, thanks to all who replied to my last post regarding full boils and how one gets them to boil. As you may recall, I was looking for a source for a stainless bioler, 30-40 quarts, which would straddle two (gas) stove burners. The consensus was "bag it dude." Most suggested getting a 36,000 BTU propane burner which could be used outside or in the garage. I may have to resort to that but I'd rather not brew outside (although I can see the advantage in the summer!) and my wife would be somewhat unsupportive of another capital investment at this point (especially as I am trying to con her into buying a used refridgerator for my brewing. She doesn't like beer.) My wife likes to exclaim "pennies a beer... Hah! But I digress. I'm certain that I recall a post a few monthe ago that someone found Just the kettle I'm looking for. I've looked through all my back issues and cannot find it. Please, if you're out there, e'mail me! Finally, thanks to all of you on the net for leading me from rank beginner back in August to seasoned veteran :-) now. Without you I wouldn't be having all this fun brewing now. Don McDaniel dinsdale at chtm.unm.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 1991 19:06 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: Solving boilover A hint to prevent boilover from EVER happening again. In case you've noticed, boil over only occurs at the very beginning of the boil. It appears to be a result of a protein "skin" that forms as the wort heats to a boil. When steam collects under this skin and comes forth all at once, as it does once the boil begins, it blows a big wort bubble all over creation. I started skimming the wort of the creamy white head that forms as the wort comes to a boil and have never had a boil over since. But doesn't this affect head retention on the beer, you say? Nope. Cheers, Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu Feb 7 16:12:00 1991 From: microsoft!jonm at uunet.UU.NET Subject: uncappable domestic champagne bottles Advice to people who bottle in domestic champagne bottles: Before accepting bottles into your collection (and de-labeling them, sanitizing them, etc.), it's a good idea to check and see if they will fit a cap. I used to think they all were cappable, but I recently encountered about 2 cases of Cook's champagne bottles which have mouths which are slightly the wrong shape. It seems to be just this one batch of bottles ... I have a number of other Cook's bottles which cap just fine. (Fortunately I had enough other bottles to finish bottling the batch.) You don't have to actually clamp a cap down to test whether it will fit ... just see whether a cap can sit squarely on the mouth of the bottle. By the way, the beer was a version of Papazian's "Crystal Honey Lager". It's good! I like the honey flavor ... first time I've tried that. Jonathan Mark uunet!microsoft!jonm [not speaking for my employer] Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 91 19:14:52 PST From: wicinski%winona.esd.sgi.com at SGI.COM Subject: Re: Homemade Wort Chillers ? I've seen ads for immersion wort chillers; priced under $30, as I recall. But it looked to me like they were nothing more complicated than a coil of copper tubing with a hose clamped on each end and a faucet fitting on one hose. Seems like that would be easy to make at home for under ten bucks. Am I missing something important ? (Like, oh, say, "copper and homebrew react to form an unstable fissionable compound." 8-) 30 is pretty reasonable. i was quoted over 40, so i made mine for 20 with some bendable hose from the hardware store. it works OK, but not great. then i realized i needed some washers for the hoses. i think the wort chiller in the freezer is a good idea. i will try it myself. i usually leave my batches sit overnite with a closed lid since i usually have one too many homebrews while making it and get lazy. anyone see problems with this (i haven't)? tim Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 91 23:09 CST From: <SU0751A%DRAKE.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Steam beers Greetings, HBDers! I'm not officially signed up on this list, but read it regularly through my brewpartner (Mark Castleman, MC2331S at DRAKE). We are interested in making a steam beer, and toward that end have the following questions to pose to the digest in general: o Does anyone know of a mail-order house which sells Brewhouse extracts? o Does anyone have an intermediate-level (malt extract, with a few other readily available ingredients) steam beer recipe that they'd like to share with us? Thanks in advance . . . Sterling Udell Big Dog Brewing Cooperative SU0751A at DRAKE.BITNET or SU0751A at ACAD.DRAKE.EDU Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #578, 02/08/91 ************************************* -------
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