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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

Contents:
  Update on the Lagering Question (rogerl)
  bottle color (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583)
  Plastic 2liter bottles (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583)
  1988 Zymurgy Special Issue (rogerl)
  Pale Ales? (florianb)

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Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 12:12:09 EST
From: rogerl at Think.COM
Subject: Update on the Lagering Question

>First Time Lagering Questions ...  
>I checked it this morning and found the water in the lock all on the
>wrong side.  
Well, after 60 hours the water in the fermentation lock is finally on
the correct side.  This is the first time it has taken so long to get
the flocculation to start.  Ergo my concern appears to be unwarrented.
It seems that none of the books really mentioned this phenomenon.  Oh
well, guess I'll just relax and let the microbeasties work.

Roger Locniskar

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Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 10:56:44 CST
From: hplabs!uiucdcs!iwtsf!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583)
Subject: bottle color

Since we're talking about bottles, I thought I might bring
up a few questions about bottle color.  I've been using only
brown bottles (actually, only bar longnecks which I buy
empty, from a bar - including wire frame cases).  The
reason I've been staying away from green bottles and
(God forbid) clear bottles is because I thought I might
have a tendancy to worry about my beer being oxidized
by light.  I've had little reason to change my methods
except for the fact that I've recently started brewing
less often - mostly because I HATE BOTTLING.  I would
change to kegging, but I don't have the room for a second
fridge at this time.  The next best thing is to use larger
bottles.  In digest#58, Mike Meyer mentioned the JUMBO
Beck's bottles and I like the idea, but I don't want to
worry about the light.

Here's what I think, and I welcome the more educated to 
put me in my place:
I believe that it's UV that causes anything to oxidize
faster.  I felt more safe using brown bottles because
brown seems to be further away from the violet end of
the spectrum than green and because the brown bottles
are darker.  On the other hand, doesn't UV have a hard
time getting through regular glass and UV lights are
made of quartz (or something like that)?

Am I fostering a valid concern or is the difference
so small as to be negligible?

Al.

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Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 11:00:14 CST
From: hplabs!uiucdcs!iwtsf!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583)
Subject: Plastic 2liter bottles

Mike Meyer's question about plastic bottles remided me
of a funny story. Last summer, I spent a lot of time
on the beach and subsequently drank a lot of beer to
replace the liquids I was sweating out.  By about
4 or 5PM, I usually was not in top shape for waterskiing,
kneeboarding, or boardsailing, so I decided to cut back
on the alcohol and tried those non-alcoholic fruit coolers.
Delicious, but expensive (double the cost of beer).

Hey, I'm pretty handy, I'll make it myself!

I bought a bunch of fruits, ran them through a blender,
bottled the brown mess in 2liter plastic bottles
and headed for the beach.  Not very appetizing, but
good tasting.

Now, you would think that since I'm a brewer, I should
have known what to expect.  A week later, I found that
the brown liquid had now become carbonated and alcoholic.
Back to square one.  Three weeks after bottling, my bottles
had developed such an outstanding bacterial infection,
that I videotaped the opening of a bottle in the back yard.
The four foot geyser was spectacular!
Al.

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Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 12:32:19 EST
From: rogerl at Think.COM
Subject: 1988 Zymurgy Special Issue

From: "MR. DAVID HABERMAN" 
>What was the 1988 special issue about and is it worth ordering?
It deals with gadgets that homebrews have made to make their life
easier.  Some interesting stuff. Things like basics on how to make and
infusion masher (cheap), how to deal with cornellius (spell?) cans,
wort chillers, keg washers (this one uses an old dishwasher) and lots
of award winning recipes both extract and all grain type.  Plus
several other articles of which the subject elude me at this time.
There's a recipe for "Intersellar Dark" that's in my queue to do.  All
in all maybe not the most critical issue to have, but I've found it
useful.

Roger Locniskar

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Date: 25 Jan 89 09:10:35 PST (Wed)
From: florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com at RELAY.CS.NET
Subject: Pale Ales?

Yesterday, palladin at moore.seas.upenn.edu (Joseph Palladino) raised questions on
how to brew a genuine pale ale.  Some time back, I posted a query with 
rec.food.drink asking for pale ale recipes, and got no reply.  I've tried the 
usual 6-7 lbs amber extract, 1 lb crystal malt, and 1/4 lb roasted malt, with
2 oz Cascade boiling, and 1/2 oz Kent Goldings finishing.  I obtain a pale ale
that is challenging, but nowhere near Samuel Smith's.  I have come to the 
conclusion that the water formula is primary in determining the flavor and body.In addition, knowing when and having the ability to stop fermentation is also   useful in obtaining the proper sweetness.  My efforts are continuing with
variations on the above recipe, but I would love to hear from others as to
whether they have found a "genuine pale" recipe.  Please??

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