HOMEBREW Digest #5923 Sun 25 March 2012

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  Re: Homebrew Taste ("David Houseman")
  Lager Question (TARogue)
  Re: Oxidation Help ("\\-s@roadrunner.com")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 08:40:00 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: Re: Homebrew Taste Mike, I agree that oxidation, from old stale liquid malt extract and hot-side aeration is one of the problems with some homebrew. However in my experience this doesn't result in the "wet cardboard" form of oxidation which is more typically from oxygen introduced post fermentation. Rather the result I sense is a dullness with muted, caramel-like notes. Oxidation can take a number of sensory forms, and each person may describe their perception differently so we may agree that oxidation isn't good and we don't like the results. David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 10:48:00 -0700 (PDT) From: TARogue <tarogue at yahoo.com> Subject: Lager Question I made an attempt at a lager last week. The krausen never got very big, but it did go up and then settle back down. It sat in my basement at 48/48/50/52/54/56/54 degrees. High krausen occored on the first 54 degree day, Today I racked it into secondary and moved it to a lagering fridge. The initial gravity was 1.048. Today it was at 1.026. The recipe was 22 lbs of US 2-row and 3 oz of Saaz hops. I mashed for about 45 min at 148. Mashed out with 190 degree liquor for 10 minutes and boiled for 60. I used Fermentis dry lager yeast S-23. The final gravity should be about 1.012. My question is: will it continue to drop points when cooled to 36-38 degrees? Or should I take t back out and move it somewhere warmer for a couple days? And this is why I do so much better with ales. - -- -Tom http://www.facebook.com/Out.Haus Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 18:29:56 -0400 From: "\\-s at roadrunner.com" <"\\-s"@roadrunner.com> Subject: Re: Oxidation Help James R. Gregory asks for help regarding oxidation... > I am a relatively new all grain home brewer and am trying to get rid of a > slight "homebrew" taste in some of my brews. I suspect it may be oxidation > related. To date I have bottle condition all brews. > > > > I am looking for advice on preventing oxidation. I try to keep splashing, > etc. to a minimum when transferring from carboy to bottling bucket. So I am > looking for other tips and any comments on the following: > > > > 1. Should I flush carboys, bottling bucket and bottles with co2. I > read the recent "flushing" discussion and am still confused. Stupid > question, but, if this is a good idea what is best way to get co2 equipment > and rough cost. You don't need to flush your primary fermenter as you want the yeast to have access to O2. If you move the beer to a secondary fermenter you should always do so while there is active fermentation under way - and again there is no need to flush so long as the container is reasonable full (95% full not 50%) and don't splash. If you are bottle conditioning then I wouldn't use O2 scavenging caps, and you can just fill normally and leave a cap sitting on top of the bottle to rest for a minute before sealing. The CO2 from the beer will push out most of the O2, and the remainder can be used by the yeast. > 2. Are the more expensive bottling caps that absorb oxygen worth the > money. If you are bottling w/o bottle conditioning and you intend to store the beer for much time or at suboptimal temps - then yes. > 3. I have heard that adding a very small amount of sodium or potassium > bisulfite to brew prevents oxidation. Anything to this and, if so, how is > it done. Yes - it's very effective. I suggest you start with campden tablets (commonly used for wine making http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campden_tablets), or alternatively you can get potassium metabisulfite powder which may be slightly better. I'd add a minimum of 2 campden tables (~1gm) crushed to a 5 gallon mash. You can certainly triple that amount. With "too much" you'll eventually get a sulfury edge to the beer - not unlike a white wine - tho it 'works' well with some lagers. Generally this makes the beer taste much fresher and a little crisper. The sulfite acts as an anti-oxidant and even can convert come already oxidized flavor actors to unoxidized states. The end products are sulfate (which you may be adding as gypsum) and a little sodium or potassium. > 4. Any other suggestions. In my experience it's rare to get bottle oxidation in a bottle conditioned beer. I've done side-by-sides and the bottle conditioned beers really do taste better much longer (it's just such a PITA to bottle). So IF your problem is really oxidation - it's either happening in the mash or else your ingredients are oxidized. Metabite in the mash will cure any mash oxidation problem and maybe even help any ingredient issues a little. My main ingredient concern would be to use good hops. Hops oxidation is a real potential problem. Another possibility is that you are getting yeast autolysis in the bottle. Some yeast disintegrate after bottle conditioning and leave a meaty-brothy flavor and even leaves some oily rancid flavors (a hint of dead mouse). Most of the hi-alcohol ale yeasts do very well in the bottle. Also you should end up with a little opaque layer of yeast in the bottom of bottle - not a quarter inch. -S Return to table of contents
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