HOMEBREW Digest #5935 Sun 08 April 2012

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  Sparging (Bruce Fabijonas)
  Mash tun capacity (Fred L Johnson)
  Bottle Conditioning (Nathaniel Letcher)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 23:51:34 -0400 From: Bruce Fabijonas <mathbruce at gmail.com> Subject: Sparging I know that there are strong opinions about fly sparging vs. batch sparging. Lately, I've been blending the two methods to speed up the brew day. I batch sparge the first runnings, and I fly sparge the rest. That is to say, after the first runnings have emptied, I refill the mash tun with water, stir up the grain bed, vorlauf until the runoff is clear, and then I fly sparge from that point forward. I have not heard of anyone else doing this. Is there some obvious reason why no one does this and I've simply missed the boat? Thanks. Bruce Fabijonas HOPS (Homebrewers of Philadelphia and Suburbs) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 08:33:20 -0400 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Mash tun capacity Keith wants to know how much he can mash in a quarter barrel keg. Assuming a quarter barrel (US) is 31.5/4 gallons, i.e., 7.875 gallons, you already have the total volume the tun will contain. The amount of grain you can mash in this will, of course, depend on the amount of water you mash with. I have not performed the measurements myself, but what I have read is that grain can be assumed to occupy 0.08 gallons/lb. If you have 19 lb of grain to mash, you will be at the capacity of the tun if you mash with 1.337 quarts/lb. (You do the math for other amounts of grain and for other amounts of water relative to the grain.) I am sure you do not want to completely fill your mash tun because it is impossible to actually contain that volume with stirring, etc. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 07:22:52 -0500 From: Nathaniel Letcher <nathaniel.letcher at gmail.com> Subject: Bottle Conditioning Conventional lore suggests letting your beer sit for two weeks at room temperature when carbonating in the bottle. This certainly works but I was wondering whether it was necessary. How long does it really take for the yeast to consume such a miniscule amount of sugar? Are we waiting on them to produce the CO2? Or are we waiting all that time for the CO2 to go into solution? I only know enough about chemistry/physics to speculate, but I do know that the process of CO2 going into solution is a function of temperature and the pressure of the vessel. Commercial breweries that force carbonate their beer first chill it down to below forty degrees Fahrenheit and then apply extra pressure to the tank. In the case of bottle-conditioned homebrew, might it actually carbonate more quickly in the refrigerator than at room temperature as the CO2 will more readily go into solution at a lower temp? Has anyone tested this theory? Nathan Letcher St Louis, MO Return to table of contents
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