HOMEBREW Digest #919 Wed 08 July 1992

Digest #918 Digest #920

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Description of Wyeast liquid cultures (TOM KALTENBACH)
  Question on mead (Have I won it? :) (gkushmer)
  mead, JSbashing (smith)
  Oats ("Rad Equipment")
  Oats                                  Time:7:45 AM     Date:7/7/92
  Sealing mash-tuns (Patrick J. Volkerding)
  oatmeal (Brian Bliss)
  Silicones, implants, and toxicity (Chip Hitchcock)
  sparge method (Russ Gelinas)
  silicone (Brian Bliss)
  Silicones Again (Thomas D. Feller)
  Silicone, Yeast (Jack Schmidling)
  Weizen yeast / kegging (korz)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #918 (July 07, 1992) (Greg)
  Question on sanitizers. ("C. Lyons")
  Getting that clove-like flavor from cloves (Patrick P. Clancey)
  Beers of California (Michael T. Daly)
  Origins of Lambic? (C.R. Saikley)
  smoked beer (Frank Tutzauer)
  English Ale (John.D.Burrill)
  malts... ("Franklin R. Jones")
  Re: Peach Weizen (Jeff Frane)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 08:10:06 -0400 From: tfk at Kodak.COM (TOM KALTENBACH) Subject: Description of Wyeast liquid cultures Hi all- Does anybody have a copy of the description of the different strains of the Wyeast liquid yeast cultures? The "brewing in the information age" issue of ZYMURGY (couple of issues ago now) mentions that this file is available on COMPUSERVE (I think it's called WYEAST.TXT). Unfortunately, I don't have any way to access COMPUSERVE. Could some kind soul please send me a copy? Thanks. Tom Kaltenbach tfk at kodak.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 8:42:23 EDT From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU Subject: Question on mead (Have I won it? :) I recently posted this to a local mailing list but seeing that I too might get the beloved MALTMILL I've got to buy my lottery tick--um--repost this thing here for the wider audience. I've noticed that mead, when purchased in stores or in restaurants, is a rather expensive drink. The Boston Beer Works sells it for $3.95 a glass (and the glasses are wine-size thingies) while a friend of mine buys it for $90 a case. Meanwhile I throw in some honey and yeast and spend a total of $12.50 to make what is so far 5 gallons. Is there something more at work here than market forces in keeping store-bought so high? Or is this a grab-your-ankles routine? - --gk Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 09:23:04 CDT From: smith%8616.span at Fedex.Msfc.Nasa.Gov Subject: mead, JSbashing hey folks-- For various reasons, I've been making quick meads lately instead of beers, using a base of 5 lb honey for a 5 gallon batch and throwing in various spices and/or fruits. Now, this stuff is good in its own way (not having tasted anybody else's mead, I can't compare it), but it seems quite thin. How can one add "body" to a quick mead? Add a little DME? More fruit? Is this a fruitless quest? *ducks* Note that I don't give a FFAARD about standard styles, I just want a nice summer beverage that doesn't take more than a month to complete. 1 1/2 gallons of frozen blackberries, a jug of honey, several million yeasties and I await your suggestions.... Oh, yeah. Why exercise your sarcasm on Jack's maltmill giveaway? Sheesh, you can hardly call it commercialism when he's giving something away for nothing! And congrats Jack, I had no idea you'd sold 100 of them. Want to make fun of something? How about the summer MajorBeer ads? "Miller Lite - It's __it and that's that!" Pfui. james smith%8616.span at fedex.msfc.nasa.gov "i bought a .44 magnum, solid steel cast and in the sacred name of Elvis i just let it blast" --Da Boss Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 09:43:32 -0500 From: Brew Chemist Walter <walterbj at ernie.cis.uwosh.edu> I tried mailing this last week, but it never made it out. Seems the mailer at UW-Oshkosh is about as reliable as the US Mail. Oh well, here it goes again. Mitch asked: > I would like to convert an upright freezer into a cool place for my > brew for ferment and age. I have looked for "conversion" kits in > this area, and have found only one available. Unfortunately, it > costs $75. Does anyone out there in netland have a cheap (less than > $40) solution to my problem? If so, I'd love to hear from ya! Mitch, Check the back of Zymurgy. I don't remember the company, but they offer a programable controller for about $29.99. I believe that you plug the freezer/frig into the controller, which plugs into the wall. There must be some type of thermistor or something you slip inside the unit to monitor temperature. I will check on the company and e-mail you with the info. Brian /*----------------------------------------------------------------------------*/ /* Brian J Walter | "... Glittering prizes and endless | */ /* U of Wisconsin - Oshkosh | comprimises shatter the illusions | |~~| */ /* Chemistry and Computer Science| of integrity." -- Neil Peart, RUSH |(| | */ /* Student - Graduated!!! |-------------------------------------| |__| */ /* walterbj at ernie.cis.uwosh.edu | Relax, Don't Worry, Have A Homebrew | */ /*----------------------------------------------------------------------------*/ Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Jul 92 08:20:07 U From: "Rad Equipment" <rad_equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU> Subject: Oats Subject: Oats Time:7:45 AM Date:7/7/92 Brian Cole talks about his failed attempt to use rolled oats: >I included them in an extract-based recipe in the standard manner of adding >them to the boil water as it was being heated. I was quite nervous (but not >worried !) that they would turn into oatmeal... after cooling I could see >in the wort very vicsous thick whitish trub that took many days to settle >out.... I was not too surprised to find what was basically oatmeal sans >oats.... In addition, the head retention of my stout is pretty poor... Well Brian you got just what you thought, oatmeal made with wort. Oats are not the same as specialty malts like chocolate, black patent, or roasted barley. Oats MUST BE MASHED otherwise all you get is starch in the beer. In order for the starch to be available for the mashing the oats must be cooked (like rice) hence the milling process. Either "rolled" or "steel-cut" will work equally well if you mash them. Flaked barley is a similar animal and must be treated the same way. Flaked wheat is also available from some shops, works the same way. Mini-mashing isn't hard, just take equal amounts of the oats and 2 or 6 row malt and combine with about 1 qt. of water per lb. Bring this to 155 degrees for an hour and then rough sparge into your extract through a colander or grain bag with an amount of water equal to what you mashed with. By "rough" I mean just a simple rinse, no recirculation or trickle since you are looking for the oat character and not a significant yeild. Oats get pretty gummy so when in a 1 to 1 grain bed a stuck sparge is almost guaranteed. Don't give up on them yet, just mash them next time! RW... Russ Wigglesworth CI$: 72300,61 |~~| UCSF Medical Center Internet: Rad Equipment at RadMac1.ucsf.edu |HB|\ Dept. of Radiology, Rm. C-324 Voice: 415-476-3668 / 474-8126 (H) |__|/ San Francisco, CA 94143-0628 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 11:30:42 -0400 From: Jeffrey Muday <mudayja at wfunet.wfu.edu> Homebrewers: I'm new to the homebrewing hobby (on my third batch). Thus far, I have used only a single stage brewing method-- my primary is a closed 6.5 gal food-grade plastic pail. Will I achieve better tasting beer by switching to the "blow-off" carboy single-stage system as described in Papazian's COMPLETE JOY OF HOMEBREWING? I made a "kit" beer by Brewmart that included a fining agent called isinglass. I am unfamiliar with this stuff: it claims it contains sulphur dioxide preservative--should I use it? I am also interested in brewing beers that are similar in flavor to Grolsch and Heineken. I would appreciate any recipes that would approximate these beers. Thanks, - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 11:30:49 -0500 From: volkerdi at MHD1.moorhead.msus.edu (Patrick J. Volkerding) Subject: Sealing mash-tuns Hey now! With all this talk about horrible potentially toxic glues and sealers getting used in mash tun construction, I thought I'd offer an alternate approach. First off, if your cooler already has a drain in the bottom, I wouldn't try to modify it. My impression is that it's a lot easier to make a leak-proof drain from scratch. Get a 15/32" drill bit and file the sharp edges near the point dull. This will help it to scrape through, preventing the plastic from chipping or shattering. Drill carefully through a flat section of the inside of the cooler, and then shove a piece of 1/2" OD vinyl hose through it. It will fit snugly enough that it won't leak. You can then fit 3/8" OD copper tubing to either side by just sticking it in the tube. Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 11:31:05 CDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: oatmeal >I do not have anywhere near as much brewing experience as Larrry. However, >I personally would not recommend using rolled oats (at least in extract >recipes). I used them in an oatmeal stout several months ago when I could >not find steel-cut oats. I included them in an extract-based recipe in the >standard manner of adding them to the boil water as it was being heated. >I was quite nervous (but not worried !) that they would turn into oatmeal >so I made sure not to let them boil and even removed them earlier than I >normally would have removed specialty grains. I cooled the wort before >transferring to the primary and after cooling I could see in the wort very >vicsous thick whitish trub that took many days to settle out. When it did >it left a 3-4" layer on the bottom of the carboy. When I racked to secondary >I was not too surprised to find what was basically oatmeal sans oats, the >same glutinous whitish paste that's in cooked oatmeal. Unfortunately while >in the primary this "oatmeal" swelled and sucked up about 1/2 gallon of my beer. >In addition, the head retention of my stout is pretty poor, it only lasts >for 0.5-1.0 minutes. This may simply be due to the oils in the oatmeal and >may have nothing to do with using rolled oats. I, however, will not use >rolled oats again. I have since found steel-cut oats in local health-food >stores. you must mash oatmeal or any other adjuncts before you add them to the boil. In fact, I won't even add malted specialty grains anymore unless they are mashed. If I'm trying to do a quick and dirty job and just want to add a half lb. of crystal malt or so, I'll steep it in 150F water and add an oz. of amylase enzyme. If you add all the malt extract at this point you'll also notice that the infamous boil-over problem is alleviated. Anyway, I made the same mistake (not mashing oatmeal) when I first tried it. bb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 12:00:29 EDT From: cjh at diaspar.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Chip Hitchcock) Subject: Silicones, implants, and toxicity A key factor in the current fuss about silicone implants is that the salesmen/demonstrators were specifically taught to conceal that the envelopes leaked; the toxicity of implants relates substantially to the effects of loose liquid silicone in contact with muscle or fatty tissue for periods of several years. This is not likely to happen with anything used to seal a brewing vessel rather than a brewer. The relative internal toxicities of the liquids used in implants and the solids used in caulking are also unclear. Neither of these mean silicone caulks are \safe/, but the comparison raised by Al Taylor may not be valid. I would also be suspicious of aquarium caulks; standards for pets are often looser than standards for people. Tom Feller's post raises an idea: just as for large boiling kettles, food-safe caulks (if they exist and whatever they're made of) should be findable in cooking supply houses. Try your local yellow pages.... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1992 13:53:33 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: sparge method Some history: It was suggested by Micah M. that it is better to not recycle the sparge runnings at all, but rather to just allow the mash to rest for a period of time, and then allow the lauter-tun to drain. His reasoning is that the extra particles in the wort that result will give a clearer final product, as there will be more surface area for flocculation. What I did: Unfortunately, this is completely un-scientific, and really proves nothing. With that caveat.....I brewed 2 (actually 3, but I'll get to that later) similar batches: 10 lbs 2-row pale with another pound of specialty malt. All 20+ lbs. was ground at the same time. Both batches were mashed at 154 deg. Both were mashed-out and sparged by pouring the mash into a 10 gallon water cooler fitted with a straining bowl, and then filling the cooler with boiling water. The sparge set at 170 deg. Let sit for 30 minutes. I recycled the wort in the first batch until it ran clear, probably about 1 gallon. For the second batch, I just opened the drain and let it run. Big chunks of stuff could be seen in the second batch. Both batches were then boiled up (90 min), with hops in a hop bag (mistake!) The result: Batch 2 was *slightly* clearer going into the carboy, and after fermenting out. Unfortunately, both batches were quite cloudy, and truthfully, so is the result. I attribute the cloudiness to the use of a hops bag, because.... In batch #3 (I told you I'd get to it), I mashed the same way, with similar ingredients and grind, mashed-out and sparged the same way, but with recycling the first 1/2 gallon or so. I got a stuck sparge after about 6 gallons. (?) I poked some holes in the mash, and got out another .5 gallon. Boiled with loose whole hops (no hops bag), and the wort was crystal clear. The obvious next step is to do it the same way again, but with no recycling at all. So, what does it all mean? It seems to imply that the resulting wort is clearer if there is *something*, whether chunks of stuff from the mash or hops, for easy flocculation, and that hops might be more important in the clearing than the mash stuff. But, again, this is really all just speculation, and I'm only posting this in hopes of getting a maltmill ;-) I'll let you know how comparitive batch #4 turns out (in about a month). Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 13:00:39 CDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: silicone >There have been a number of post about using Silicon as a sealer for homebrew >projects. Some folks have suggested using automotive silicon sealer because of >temperature requirements, as a former auto mechanic I think this would be >unwise. All of the automotive grade silicon sealers I have used have a high >level of solvents in them. Granted, once they are dry they will hold up to >almost anything, I would still be quite worried about contact with things I >that I might eat or drink. Perhaps someone out there knows of a food grade >silicon sealer which would have the same kind of properties but we would know it >was safe for contract with food. >Just a semi-amusing aside to the discussion on the "inertness" of silicone: >About 20-25 years ago, the general consensus in the scientific community, >allegedly in the know, that silicone was inert in breast implants and the >like. Well, that turned out to be not quite true. However, as long as >you don't use the beer exposed to silicone gel for cosmetic augmentation, >you should be alright. :-) A few months ago 60 minutes had an article on silicone cosmetic surgery. Apparrently, many (so-called) doctors were basically taking a syringe full of the (automotive) clear silicone RTV and injecting it directly into their patients! Many of these patients needed extensive surgery to remove the silicone after side effects showed up a few years later, and were left with permanent scarring. I digress from brewing, so I'll shut up... bb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 11:24:02 PDT From: thomasf at deschutes.ico.tek.com (Thomas D. Feller) Subject: Silicones Again I don't want to beat this subject to death but I think I need to make a couple of points about my last post on automotive grade silicone sealers. We have been talking about silicone as if it were some standard product but in the automotive field the number different kinds of silicone sealers is large, each with different properties. Some resist gas and oil, some can fill large gaps, some can fill very small flat surfaces, and some can take very high temperatures. The point I am trying to make here is that these sealers have different formulas, things are added to the sealer to get the different features. These sealers are tested on cars not on people, so because it will not breakdown exposed to gas does not mean that it is safe for contact with food. As I said before I am sure there must be some tested and approved food grade silicone sealer out there which would be far better to use for brewing. Looking forward the the OBF and over 40 different microbrews, July 17,18, & 19 Tom Feller Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 08:32 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Silicone, Yeast To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> >Subject: Silicone Rubber Caulking in Mash Tun >I'm about to use it, but I am going to be sure to find the variety which claims to be OK for aquarium use. >From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> > So I guess the general concensus is that Silcone is > 1) Reasonably inert chemically > 2) Won't kill me? I hate to throw cold water on this otherwise wonderful stuff but several years ago there was TV news story about a whole family that got deathly sick and I believe, at least one member died, resulting from the use of a GE Silicone Sealer in a repair job on the dishwasher. For some strange reason, little was made of it but be advised that an aquarium is not a mash tun and heat has a profound effect on chemical activity. I would not use that stuff on anything that gets anywhere near my mouth. ............... Ale yeast..... Based on the accepted fact that ale yeast ferments down to near freezing, I am curious to know what happens to wort/agar slants of yeast cultures stored in the fridge. Presumably, they would happily ferment to depletion and/or till the tube exlpodes if it is the screw cap type. Seems like in the best of cases, one would end up with tired out old yeast if it was stored for more that a couple of weeks. Hmmmmmmmmmmm? js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 13:44 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Weizen yeast / kegging Sam writes: >2). I can get a jar of Widmer hefeweizen which has a large amount of yeast >in it. I have been told that they add their yeast as a second strain later >in the process. It is a more flocculent (Why does that word always bring >images of gaunt monks in cold-floored stone cells in the mountains?) strain >from what I have heard. I was wondering if I should try to form a starter >of this yeast from the dregs of a jar and pitch this with my brew. When do >I pitch the second strain? What are the advantages to this? Are there any >disadvantages? Is this a dumb idea all together? In general, modern Barvarian weizens have the two ale yeasts (S. cerevisiae and S. Delbrucki) filtered out and a lager yeast is added at bottling because, as you noted, it is more flocculent (and possibly less prone to autolysis). I recommend that you simply bottle as ususal mostly because of sanitation risks. Brian writes: > I've picked up two ball lock soda kegs at the scrap yard for $3.00 ea. >and have some questions about cleaning, and the carbination in brew use. Note that I bought my 5 kegs new from Foxx so I can't comment on cleaning old ones. > 1)When you place new gaskets in them do you need to take the ball lock >studs off and replace their gaskets? I suggest that you do replace them. They only cost a few pennies. > 4)I've know that you need not to prime with corn sugar, hence the >carbonation is added thru the co2 tank. But would it not help get rid of >unwanted oxygen while aging? If the conditioning (carbonation) vessel, keg or bottle, is sealed, then your only hope for getting rid of oxygen is something like SmartCaps(tm). > 5)After tapping how long will the beer stay good? Can you fill the keg >with co2 to make it last longer?(Oh, I forgot to mention I don't have the >facilitys to keep it cold after tapping.) You had better find a way to keep it cold. You also had better buy a CO2 tank and regulator (it sounds like you don't have one). Refrigerated (if you have good sanitation) your kegged beer could stay good for a year. Unrefrigerated, well, I wouldn't recommend it. > 6)Sense the soda kegs take the beer from the bottom how much of the beer >will have the yeast in it? I cut off 3/4" of the pickup tube with a tubing cutter. After three weeks of conditioning (two at 68F one at 50F), the very first beer is crystal clear. > 7)Should I use some type of filter while racking into the keg? If so what >type of filter is easily used in home brewing, and how can you make sure of >sterilization? (I've thought of cheese cloth but have no clue on how tho >sterilize it.) You can use a filter, but you don't have to. I recommend leaving that for later. > 8)(this is'nt really a question I'd just like to get some feedback and >maybe some better Idias for cooling the beer to drink) > Ok, here is how I plan to cool it. I bought a 20 qt. cooler and 25 ft >of stainless steel tubing in a coil that sits inside the cooler. > The beer comes from the keg thru a plastic tube to the cooler into a >coupler shank into the stainless steel tubing into a faucet and shank set. >Wala! beer! > I figure 5 min after I place Ice on the coil I should have cold brew in >the mug. I'll use silcon to prevent leakage were I drill out the cooler. > I have ordered most of the equipment for this project for under $100.00 >>From SuperiorProducts out of St.Paul Minn.(no affiliation) A used chest freezer with a Hunter Airstat thermostat is the best way to go. I suspect you will have trouble with carbonation since the solubility of CO2 varies greatly with temperature. I've tried dispensing cool beer through a jockeybox (what you described) and had a heck of a time getting the CO2 to stay in the beer. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 92 14:50:40 EDT From: Greg <UGG00081 at vm.uoguelph.ca> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #918 (July 07, 1992) Hi Can anyone out there in HBD-land provide me with a good recipe for apple or pea r cider. What are the pitfalls? Also, does anyone have plans for a workable hom e-made apple masher and press. Thanks Greg...UGG00081 at vm.uoguelph.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 14:34 EDT From: "C. Lyons" <LYONS at adc1.adc.ray.com> Subject: Question on sanitizers. I have recently moved to a new location and the water here has a high iron content. I typically use bleach (chlorine) to sanitize my equipment (bottles, buckets, carboys, etc.) and now find that iron precipitates out of the water when I let my equipment sit in the chlorine/water solution. This has unfortunately resulted in giving some of my equipment redish-brown stains. I'm calling on the experience of the HBD readers for advise on alternative sanitizers. In HBD#917 Al Taylor mentioned the use of B-Brite, and hinted that dishwashing powder is essentially the same with a small amount of chlorine added. Since I'm trying to avoid chlorine, I'm asking for advice on another affordable alternative. I typically buy a gallon of bleach for $0.89. I don't expect to find such an affordable solution, but would appreciate any advise on the purchase of non-chlorine based sanitizers (hopefully in bulk, like Al Taylor's dishwashing powder solution). Any advise would be greatly appreciated, as I will be ready to bottle a batch of pale ale in two weeks. Thanks in advance, Chris Lyons lyons at adc1.adc.ray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 14:38:34 CDT From: ssi!ppc at uunet.uu.net (Patrick P. Clancey) Subject: Getting that clove-like flavor from cloves I enjoy the strong "clove like" flavor of certain weiss beers yet I haven't been happy with the results of kit weiss beers using the Wyeast wheat strain. In this forum I have read that S. delbrueckii is what contributes the clove characteristic and that the Wyeast strain (3056) is 50/50 with something else. Since I know of no access to pure S. delbrueckii and am not too interested in plating it out, has anyone out there tried adding cloves to either the primary or secondary? Pat Clancey Supercomputer Systems, Inc. Eau Claire WI. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 13:36:24 CDT From: ssi!mtd at uunet.UU.NET (Michael T. Daly) Subject: Beers of California After that wonderful list of all of the places to get really fresh beer in the San Francisco area (posted last week), does anyone have a corresponding list for bottled beers which I can find in the same area. It looks like I'll be spending so much time drinking the fresh stuff that I won't be able to sort through the bottled stuff to select a suitcase full. Mike Daly (uunet!ssi!mtd) -- (715) 839-8484 Black Swan Femto-brewery, a member of the Hamilton Ave. Brewer's Association Supercomputer Systems Inc. 1414 W. Hamilton Ave. Eau Claire, WI 54701 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 14:35:22 PDT From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Origins of Lambic? Although no one is certain of the exact historical origins of lambic brewing, there is a body of evidence connecting the roots of the lambic technique to the village of Lembeek. Lembeek is a small village (pop 4000) in the Pajottenland. In its heyday, it boasted somewhere between 40 and 45 breweries, today it has one. The following account was told to me by that solitary brewer in Lembeek. While I can't prove or disprove its historical accuracy, it does make a good story. Lembeek is situated on the river Zenne (Senne in French), southwest of Brussels. The river takes a sharp bend, encircling the enclave of Lembeek and bestowing upon it a certain strategic importance. Whoever controlled Lembeek, controlled the Zenne, which was the main shipping route thru the region and up to Brussels. Consequently, many wars were fought over the control of this small village. In an attempt to bring peace to the region and assure that the river was accessible to all, Lembeek was established as a sort of neutral zone. Because of its status, Lembeek was not taxed like the rest of the region. While the nearby villages were required to pay taxes to one crown or another, Lembeek was exempt. Then as now, such favorable tax laws tend to attract businesses. Meanwhile, the brewers of Lembeek, who had established a trade guild by the 1400's, were refining their brews. The peace brought to the region allowed them to pursue their efforts more readily, and the tax laws allowed brewing to flourish. Utilizing the natural microflora of the region, they began to develop a brewing and aging technique that allowed their brews to keep for up to three years. By comparison, brewers in nearby villages were typically able to keep their products for only about three weeks before they soured, and were of course taxed on what they produced. Utilizing their advantage, the brewers of Lembeek began to "export" their goods, first to the nearby village of Halle. The brewers of Halle were none too happy about this, and protested to the authorities. However, the authorities deemed that it was more important to preserve Lembeek's neutral status than it was to appease the brewers of Halle, and so the market for the beers of Lembeek grew. They continued to export further north along the Zenne until lambic became the popular drink in Brussels. There came to be many gueuzestekers (gueuze blenders) in Brussels, who would buy young lambics from the brewers in Lembeek, aging and blending the beers themselves. Then with the French Revolution, came the abolition of taxes everywhere in the region. Although the tax laws have changed many times since, the scales have never been so tipped in the favor of the brewers of Lembeek. They lost one of their big advantages, and the brewing industry in Lembeek began to decline. The gueuzestekers of Brussels became brewers themselves, and many lambic brewers moved to the big city to have easier access to a larger market. Even the hallowed traditions of Cantillon were born in Lembeek where Paul Cantillon founded the brewery. It was moved to Brussels in 1931. There was a period after WWII, during which there were no breweries left in Lembeek. In 1988, Frank Boon moved his brewery to Lembeek, where he keeps the noble traditions alive. Cheers, CR Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1992 19:18 EST From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> Subject: smoked beer Well, gang. Before the summer's gone, I want to try smoking some grain for a Rauchbier or other smoked beer. Unfortunately, I've found very little written about it, and I've only tasted smoked beers twice. Once was the Alaskan smoked porter from the Alaskan Brewing Co. (?), and one was an import from Germany that I stumbled across in a grocery store. Hoo boy was that smoky. All my friends hated it, but I loved it. Here's what I've gathered so far: Dan Fink's article in the Zymurgy beer styles issue says that Rauchbier is similar to Oktoberfest. He says to use all German ingredients, and hops like Hallertauer, Tettnanger, and Saaz. Hop bitterness, flavor, and aroma are all low. He suggests a good starting point is to use 1 lb of heavily smoked malt. In the same issue, Dave and Judy Lipitz, and Lynn Patterson have a recipe that uses 2 and 1/2 lbs. of smoked Munich malt. They hop with Northern Brewer and Mount Hood, and use Wyeast Bavarian 2206. Ken Weiss' recipe in Cats Meow II uses liquid smoke. Quentin Smith, in the hops special issue of Zymurgy says the smoke overwhelms the hops, so "any hop will do" (p. 59). He suggests 28-38 IBUs. Charlie II says that the OG is 1.050-1.060, with 20-30 IBUs, and a color of 12-17 SRM. His recipe is 7 lbs. of light DME, 1 and 1/2 lbs smoked crystal, a little bit of chocolate, with Hallertauer for bitterness, flavor, and finishing. So, I'm interested in ideas. Some constraints: I'll be using extract (because I'm not yet up to all-grain), ale yeast (because my basement's too hot for lagers), and NO liquid smoke (because I've got my own smoker and want to smoke my own grain). I know that beechwood is traditional, but I'll probably use something else. Easy for me to get are hickory, mesquite, cherry, apple, pecan, and maple. If you've actually made a smoked beer before, I'd be really interested in hearing from you. But even if you haven't, I'd still like your opinions on yeast, hops, recipes, approaches, techniques, etc. - --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 19:15:02 EDT From: John.D.Burrill at um.cc.umich.edu Subject: English Ale Hello, I am new to brewing and was given this network as a source of good information. I am interested in trying to make a good english ale, and I am soliciting advice and recipes. Anybody got any good ones they are willing to send my way? I would really appreciate it. I do not have access to a maltmill, so I am currently limited to extract brewing. Thanks in advance. . J. B. Return to table of contents
Date: 07 Jul 1992 21:38:58 -0600 (MDT) From: "Franklin R. Jones" <FRANK at VA5549.Colorado.EDU> Subject: malts... Greetings, I've been a reader of this digest for almost two years, and now seem to have the space, time and almost the money to set up a brewery kitchen (in its own room in the garage) to do full mash, all grain brewing. Most of the reading/research has been confined to Dave Miller's _Complete Handbook of Home Brewing_, and this Digest. (thanks all!) Dave's book gave the best information of the 6 or so books I own on brewing. In the research to undertake this I have come up with a few questions about malting that I would like more info on: 1> What tempatures are used to make roasted malts? Dave's rather vague on tempeature's needed to make roasted malts what they are ("roasted at high temperatures..." High? when most temps with regard to malt rarely exceed the boling point of water, what is high? 250... 400?). My intrest is in the description he gives of Brown Malt "kilned over a hardwood fire, which imparts a smokey flavor". As my main focus is Dark sweet Ales, this would seem useful. 2> He states that this malt (brown malt) is "very hard to find..." Anyone know if this is still true? Sources? 3> Has anyone out there tried making malts? Any publications on this? Almost lastly: This digest is in fact the reason, my questions about "first mash" aren't about the process, but more of the "I wonder" type. This forum has been an invaluable source of knowledge. (you are all now obliged to get a cramp in your shoulder, by patting yourselves on the back.) I'm *sure* I be back to tap the source, in the future. Lastly: to Jack Schmidling: re: maltmill giveaway... All the systems /network managers want to thank you for stress testing their mailers. My system just *loves* processing 4M Homebrew Digests! But Seriously, Thanks for the offer. A few words of "comfort"? My father, when he retired, found that he had to retire about four more times over the next few years from the full time "amusements" he built for himself. Best of luck. fj.. Franklin R. Jones Information Resource Management Service (IRMS) System Manager/Ops Chief (read that as: systems haque) - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- VA Medical Center (303) 393-2881 1055 Clermont St. or (303) 399-8020 x2175 Denver, CO 80220 fax (303) 355-5105 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "If we aren't supposed to play with words... Then why do we have so many?" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 92 14:32 PDT From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Re: Peach Weizen homebrew at lupulus.ssc.gov writes: >2). I can get a jar of Widmer hefeweizen which has a large amount of yeast >in it. I have been told that they add their yeast as a second strain later >in the process. It is a more flocculent (Why does that word always bring >images of gaunt monks in cold-floored stone cells in the mountains?) strain >from what I have heard. I was wondering if I should try to form a starter >of this yeast from the dregs of a jar and pitch this with my brew. When do >I pitch the second strain? What are the advantages to this? Are there any >disadvantages? Is this a dumb idea all together? My understanding is that Widmer does NOT use a second strain of yeast, and that on the contrary their yeast is "fluffy" and anything BUT flocculent. I don't see any reason to use this as a second strain, although it would certainly be worth trying as a primary yeast. My impressions are garnered, by the way, from discussions with Frank Commanday (head brewer downtown) and a couple of other people who work there. Also, this is not a specifically weizen strain of yeast but is the same stuff they use in all their beers; in other words, primarily a German-style top-fermenting yeast. The big German breweries repitching at bottling with a lager yeast, to get a brighter beer. Whether they help flocculate the weizen yeast or if that primary yeast has been dropped out by cold-conditioning, I don't know. - --Jeff Frane Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #919, 07/08/92