HOMEBREW Digest #923 Wed 15 July 1992

Digest #922 Digest #924

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Reminder: Digest Backlog (rdg)
  sparge water ("B_HADLEY")
  cleaners ?? (Richard Stern)
  grinding grain in the kitchen?? (Richard Stern)
  What is maltmill? ("B_HADLEY")
  English vs. American malt (Chad Epifanio)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #920 (July 09, 1992) (Richard Childers)
  Colorado Brewers Festival (Rick Myers)
  Colorado Brewers Festival - Review
  1993 Conference, maltmill (man)
  FWD: A Couple of Recipes ... (KENYON)
  On Tap (World Beer Review) (Michael L. Hall)
  silicon (mcnally)
  Keg priming questions (Email)
  Temperature Control (Jeff Berton)
  Wyeast descriptions (CCASTELL)
  Yeast and Spec. Grav's. (Daniel L. Krus)
  Boston Brewing Co. Tour (Michael L. Hall)
  rosemary ale and porter (Bryan Gros)
  98, 99, Why Wait for the Boil? (Tim P McNerney)
  Malt Mill (Ron Karwoski)
  Guinness Story (Michael L. Hall)
  Mt.View Festival (Richard Stueven)
  Yeast bank (Tom Kaltenbach)
  Brewer's yeast and dogs (Mary E. Hall)
  Re: Mead questions (Mark N. Davis)
  Re: temperature control (Larry Barello)
  San Francisco KQED Beerfest (Mark N. Davis)
  AHA e-mail addresses (Edward C. Bronson)
  San Diego brewpubs (Bruce Mueller)

Send articles for __publication__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Archives are available from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu (Send a HELP message there for instructions, etc.) **Please do not send me requests for back issues!** *********(They will be silenty discarded!)********* **For Cat's Meow information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu**
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Jul 92 12:41:46 MDT From: rdg at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Subject: Reminder: Digest Backlog Just a reminder: If you have submitted an article for publication, don't worry if you don't see it here immediately. Articles are put into the digest in the order they arrive. Rob Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Jul 92 12:28:00 PST From: "B_HADLEY" <BHADLEY at atlas.nafb.trw.com> Subject: sparge water A couple of questions on sparging. 1. Why cant one reuse the sparge water to decrease the amount needed. Perhaps also get better yield? 2. Why cant one add cold water to the fermenter with mash recipes like one does in extract? Relpies appreciated. B hadley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 13:32:16 MDT From: Richard Stern <rstern at col.hp.com> Subject: cleaners ?? Lately I've heard of people talking about not wanting to use Clorine. Why not?? I started out using B-brite (5-6 years ago), but for the last few years I've been using bleach. I'd like to hear pros and cons of: 1)bleach 2)b-brite 3)boiling water Thanks, Richard Stern rstern at col.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 13:37:25 MDT From: Richard Stern <rstern at col.hp.com> Subject: grinding grain in the kitchen?? Is there a danger in grinding grain in the same room that I brew in? I think I remember hearing/reading about the grain dust causing contamination problems, but I'm not sure. Should I be grinding my grain in the basement, or maybe doing it a day in advance?? Help .... Does it matter if I use a MALTMILL or not :-) :-) Thanks, Richard Stern PS. Here's the MALTMILL #100 tally as I see. Jack's post was the last one in digest #917. Digest 918 had 14 posts, 919 had 22 posts and 920 had 33 posts for a total of 69. That means if there are at least 31 posts in this digest (#921), then the winner is the 31st entry in this digest. Is it me?? :-) (at least I've asked reasonable questions in each post). Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Jul 92 12:31:00 PST From: "B_HADLEY" <BHADLEY at atlas.nafb.trw.com> Subject: What is maltmill? Can some describe a maltmill? Is it a mashing machine? B hadley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 12:43:10 PDT From: chad at mpl.UCSD.EDU (Chad Epifanio) Subject: English vs. American malt Hi, This is in regard to someones query about the difference between English and American malts. I may not have had huge experience in this area, but I have made about 15 all-grain batches for each of American and English malt. I get my malt in 50lb sacks from William's Brewing here in California. The american kind is called Klagges and the english kind is called English Pale Ale. Both are fully modified, and I believe both are from 2-row malt. This information is for Williams only, since I have no experience with others. The add in the catalogue stated that for the "authentic" English taste, you needed English Pale Ale malt. Beliveing this, I bought a 50lb sack of Klagges, and a 55lb sack of English Pale Ale. I brewed a pale batch out of each, using cultured English Ale yeast, also originally form Williams. The recipes were not exact, but they were close in style. They were made about a month apart. Oh, and both were made using single step infusion process as recommended by some for British beers. I liked them both, but to be honest, I could not tell if one malt was obviously superior to the other. I cannot comment on the "authenticity" of the English flavor since I have never been across the Atlantic. All in all, I couldn't tell much of a difference between the two. Discalimer: These are my own views of similar beers in an uncontrolled experiment. Chad Epifanio--> chad%mpl at ucsd.edu | "There are no bad brews. Scripps Institution of Oceanography | However, some are better Marine Physics Laboratory | than others." ================================================================ "All words and ideas are my own, etc., etc..." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 12:44:49 PDT From: Richard Childers <rchilder at us.oracle.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #920 (July 09, 1992) "Mike Daly asks about where to purchase bottled California beers ..." "Liquor Barn 201 Bayshore Blvd. OK selection of local beers. Poorly handled." True. "Almost all Safeways have some local stuff these days." True. There are a few good stores in the Haight ... one liquor store I can think of that has a nice variety, maybe two. Some exotics can also be found at a liquor store on Cole Street, right between Carl and Parnassus. Down around the intersection of Haight and Fillmore is a bar called the Toronado, which has a nice selection of beers on tap. Perhaps the widest selection in the city. You'd find a wealth of suggestions here, since a goodly percentage of the clientele are home brewers. ( Seems that brewing and indoor home gardening go hand in hand. :-) Alas, it's a somewhat rowdy crowd, so I advise that you dress 'comfortably' ... levis, leather, avoid allowing yourself to be stereotyped as a 'suit'. Enjoy the City !! - -- richard ===== - -- richard childers rchilder at us.oracle.com 1 415 506 2411 oracle data center -- unix systems & network administration Klein flask for rent. Inquire within. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 13:56:17 MDT From: Rick Myers <rcm at hpctdpe.col.hp.com> Subject: Colorado Brewers Festival Full-Name: Rick Myers Subject: Colorado Brewers Festival - Review Well, nobody's mentioned anything about the Colorado Brewers Festival held in Fort Collins, CO held this past June 27, so here's a review (it's also an entry in the WORLD'S GREATEST GIVEAWAY!). Setup: This was the third annual festival, held in Old Town Square. The organizers are finally figuring out how to do it right. Last year, it was crammed into a small area and was a madhouse. This year, they closed off a section of the street downtown and put the serving lines there. Much better. You could actually get a beer in under 5 minutes, compared to 20-30 last year. The food vendors were in a separate area from the beer serving lines. Beers: The beer selection, well, how should I put it, SUCKED. Each brewery was limited to 1 beer, and most of them were lighter beers (last year they could bring whatever they wanted to). I'm a stout/porter drinker, and I was hard pressed to find anything close to the style I like. The darkest I could find was "Black Bear Porter" from the San Juan Brewing Company. I could see daylight through it, so my craving for diluted malt syrup was not satisfied! I was happy to see the serving lines for Anheuser-Busch and Coors were the shortest, people were going for the beers with more flavor (America is being educated?). Entertainment: Several live bands performed. The more I drank, the better they sounded. Cost: You bought a mug for $1.00. Tokens for 6-ounce servings were $1.00 each. Overall, the quality of beers was quite high, some had minor problems, but I still had a great time. A list of breweries and beers follows: Anheuser-Busch Bud Dry H.C. Berger Brewing Indigo Ale Boulder Beer/Wilderness Pub Boulder Amber Breckenridge Brewpub Avalanche Carver's Bakery/Cafe Brewery Raspberry Wheat Champion Brewing Irish Red Ale CooperSmith's Pub & Brewing Dunkelweizen Coors Coors Dry Durango Brewing Co. Durango Dark Lager Flying Dog Brewpub Doggie Style Hubcap Brewery Summer Celebration Idle Spur Crested Butte Red Lady Judge Baldwin's/Kelley Brewing Amber New Belgium Brewing Co. Fat Tire Ale Oasis Brewery Capstone ESB Odell Brewing Co. Fest Ale Rock Bottom Brewery Red Rocks San Juan Brewing Black Bear Porter The Walnut Brewery Jazzberry Wynkoop Brewing Co. Elvis Brau - -- Rick Myers rcm at col.hp.com Hewlett-Packard Colorado Telecommunications Division Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 16:03 EDT From: man at kato.att.com Subject: 1993 Conference, maltmill 1993 Conference: I read in the last Zymurgy that the 1993 conference will be moved into August so as to be around the same time as the Oregon Brewer's Festival. Recently, I read here that the Festival is in July this year. So, does anyone have the real poop on this coordination effort ? Are both events going to be held within the same week or what ? Maltmill: I purchased a maltmill a few months ago and have used it in about 10 batches of all grain. I think these 3 statements sum up the pros of the product: 1. My extract efficiency went up around 4 points per pound. 2. I had an astringency problem with most of my previous batches. I attributed this to a poor crush with too much powder. Alas, I cound never rid myself of the powder without leaving 1/2 of the grain untouched. So far, all 5 batches tasted have lacked this bitterness. 3. I can crush my grain bill 75 % faster than with a Corona (I sold it to a friend). The cons ? 1. I have a hard time catching the crushed grain as it leaves the mill. I have to wrap the entire unit inside a plastic bag. I need to fabricate some kind of chute to direct the grain to a receptacle. 2. Sometimes, a piece of grain goes in funny and pushes the 2 rollers apart to the point where they stop making contact. I have to reverse direction for 1/2 a turn and then continue. All in all, I think the mill is great. I bought the roller spacing option which allows you to vary the space between the rollers for tweaking. I recommend against it. I suspect the problem I have with intermittent slipping is somehow related. In the right hands, I imagine you could do wonders with the option, but I think it works fine without it. I've crushed Briess Wheat, Briess Klages, Briess Crystal, Munton & Fison ale lager and specialty malts without moving the rollers and gotten terrific results. The couple of times I attempted adjustment were disasters (for me, anyway). Congratulations on a great product, Jack. Mark Nevar Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1992 16:38 EDT From: KENYON%LARRY%erevax.BITNET at pucc.Princeton.EDU Subject: FWD: A Couple of Recipes ... Folks, Here are two recipes that have worked out really well for me in the past. The first is a simple "kit" beer, the second an all-grain. 1) Porter? Porter? - Recipe for 5 gallons. 6.6# Telford's Porter (2 cans) 1 oz. Styrian Goldings Plugs (alpha 5.3) Bittering (1hr) 1 oz. Hallertau Plugs (alpha 2.9) Flavoring (10 min) Wyeast #1056 O.G. = 1.048 F.G. = 1.020 Add the 2 cans of malt extract to 3 gallons boiling water, bring the mix back to a boil, then add Bittering Hops. I used a hop bag, so the utilization probably wasn't that teriffic, but then again the malts are pre-hopped some, so I wasn't too concerned about that. Add finishing hops with 10 min left in the boil. Add tap water to 5 gallons, cool to 75F and pitch yeast starter (~12oz). Lag time is about 12 hours. This produces a well-balanced (there's that word again!) porter, neither too dry nor too sweet. I currently have a batch of this fermenting with Wyeast Irish Stout Yeast to see if that will make it a wee bit drier. 2) ChuckWeiser - Recipe for 5 gallons. 5.0# Lager Malt 1.0# Flaked Maize 0.5# Rice Syrup/Solids 1 oz. Hallertau Leaf (alpha 4.0) Bittering (1 hr) 1 oz. Saaz Leaf (alpha 3.0) Bittering (1 hr) 1/4oz.Tettnang Leaf (alpha 4.0) Finishing (Boil 5 min, steep 10 min) Wyeast #2124 O.G. = 1.038 F.G. = 1.008 Mash Schedule: 30 min - Protein Rest at 132F 90 min - Slowly raise temp to 155F 15 min - at 155F 15 min - Mash-out at 170 Bring mash liquid to a boil, add bittering hops (no hop bag for this one), boil 1hr. Add finishing hops, boil 5 minutes, steep 10 minutes, pour into primary, cool to 75F, and pitch yeast starter ... This recipe produces a light - but not thin tasting - North American style lager (steam?). The Tettnang Finishing hops gave a really nice fresh aroma to the beer. Good luck, -Chuck- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 14:44:03 MDT From: mlh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall) Subject: On Tap (World Beer Review) Randy J. Smith writes: >I got a flyer in the mail today for a book on brewpubs across the US called >"On Tap". I'd like to hear opinions on this book before I get it. It's only >$15 or so, but that could be spent on something better, like brew supplies! "On Tap" is put out by the World Beer Review people (Steve Johnson, I believe). It details brewpubs and micros in the U.S. with a page showing locations, directions, beers available, and info about the type of place (fern bar, yuppie hangout, sleazepit or whatever). It was put out in 1991 (I think) and there is already a supplement out. It costs about $15 and the supplement costs about $10. WBR has ads in Zymurgy, and is located in Clemson, SC. If anybody is really interested, and can't find them in Zymurgy, I will post the address (I don't have it with me now). I don't have the supplement yet, but I do have "On Tap" and I would recommend it to anybody that does a lot of traveling to different cities and wants to check out the local beer. And, no, I have no connection to WBR. Mike Hall hall at lanl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 92 13:56:49 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: silicon A man at a local TAP plastic store told me that I should under no circumstances use silicone sealant to seal anything that will deal with food. He said this with great conviction. _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1992 09:50:56 -0500 From: adiron!Email at uunet.UU.NET, Harlequin at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Keg priming questions Now I've done it! It seems I've slightly over-primed my first (Cornelius) keg of beer. I went and used 2/3 C dextrose before bothering to read the TCJOHB appendix on kegging. What's my best bet for reducing the resulting carbonation level in the keg? Should I bother? The beer, a coriander/orange brew, has been under 10 psi of CO2 at about 60-65F for a week now. Should I bleed off some of the CO2 in the headspace to allow more of the dissolved CO2 to come out of solution? Should I chill the keg down first? Should I forget it and simply serve it good and cold to keep the CO2 in solution? The recent posts regarding kegging have been most helpful. Any further tips would also be greatly appreciated. Sure beats the heck out of bottling! On a related question, how does one use the CO2 table (plotting volumes of CO2 in beer as a function of PSI and temperature) found in the LISTSERV archive? Yours in brewing, Scott Barrett scott at partech.com uunet!adiron!scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 18:07:40 EDT From: jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Berton) Subject: Temperature Control In a recent posting: >I think the unit Brian is describing is the Hunter Air-Stat (or something >very close to that name). I have one that I use to control my 'fridge. >It works perfectly well, controlling the temperature within +-2 degrees F >of the set-point. I believe the lower limit on the temperature is 35 >degrees and the upper limit is 99 (but don't quote me on it :-). I'm sure >it would work as well with a freezer. It works just like Brian describes >it. This unit has been discussed many times in this digest. I found mine >at a semi-local hardware store called Home Depot. I think these are in >serveral regions around the country. It cost about $25. You may be able >to find it in many do-it-yourself stores. I recently bought one from American Brewmaster mail-order after seeing their ad in the latest Zymurgy. If you can find it in the air-conditioning section of a hardware store like Keith did, you'll save a couple of bucks by eliminating the middle-man. Williams charged me $29. Works great. Anyway, here's a related story. Now that it's a little too warm to ferment for us basement-deprived brewers, I decided to make use of that little refrigerator I had in my college dorm way back when. It's much too small for a 5 gallon carboy, so I removed the door, made a wood-frame box, lined it with 2-inch stryrofoam, weather-stripped its face, and butted it up against the little fridge. The top is removable, and I secured it to the little fridge with bungee cords. I plugged the fridge into the temperature controller last night. I easily maintained a temperature of 50 F for its first test. I'm curious to see how cold I can make it. The entire unit sits on a shelf in my garage. When comparing it to a full-sized fridge, it's a great space and money saver. - -------- Jeff Berton; jeff344 at voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov; (216) 977-7031 -------- - --------- Aeropropulsion Analysis Office, NASA Lewis Research Center -------- - ------------- "If headquarters is interested, we're interested!" ------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 92 14:05 From: sherpa2!CCASTELL.ELDEC%mailsrv2 at sunup.West.Sun.COM (CCASTELL) Subject: Wyeast descriptions Tom Kaltenbach asks: > Does anybody have a copy of the description of the different strains of > the Wyeast liquid yeast cultures? The "brewing in the information age" > issue of ZYMURGY (couple of issues ago now) mentions that this file is > available on COMPUSERVE (I think it's called WYEAST.TXT). Unfortunately, I > don't have any way to access COMPUSERVE. Could some kind soul please send > me a copy? Thanks. I'm fairly new to the Homebrew Digest (a month or so) and am not familiar with such etiquette as repeating past postings. In the short time I've been reading the HBD, I've seen enough messages that begin "I'm new..." that it's probably safe to assume that quite a few readers haven't seen the Wyeast posting mentioned above, so I will include it here. (I've waited one issue to see if anyone else was going to post this.) But first, I must point out that the Zymurgy special issue from 1989 was on yeast, and had a good article by Byron Burch entitled "Of Yeasts and Beer Styles" that gives addition (subjective) information. I'd type in the descriptions of my favorites, but I'm pressed for time today, and don't know about copyright problems. Now, here is the relevant information from CompuServe's WYEAST.TXT (which as you can see, originated on the Homebrew Digest!): FROM INTERNET HOMEBREW DIGEST NO. 742, OCT. 17, 1991: Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1991 22:58:02 -0400 (EDT) From: D_KRUS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Daniel L. Krus) Subject: Yeast and Spec. Grav's. There's been a few questions lately about yeast and characteristics associated with them. Here is a retype of some information I received from Wyeast relative to their yeast. This information was obtained a while ago and supposedly this was to be updated and expanded. If anyone has the latest update I would appreciate a copy of it from you since Wyeast wasn't too tickled that I contacted them directly. Sorry if there are any typos. (Information about NEW strains Belgian Ale [#1214] and California Lager [#2112] contributed Jan. 23, 1992, by Beer Forum member Bill McKinless, of The Home Brewery in Teaneck, N.J.) YEAST CHARACTERISTICS Some yeast strains are more active and vigorous than others. Lager strains in particular do not show as much activity on the surface as many of the Ale strains. We provide an adequate quantity of yeast to complete fermen- tation with varying amounts of lag time depending on strain, freshness, handling, and temperature. If you find it too slow, make a starter as recommended on the package. In any event, a closed fermenter with an airlock is recommended. TEMPERATURE The slow onset of visible signs of fermentation can be improved by starting fermentation at 75 deg. F (24 deg. C) until activity is evident, then moving to your desired fermentation temperature. A few degrees does make a significant difference without adversely affecting flavor. The normal temperature for Ale yeast range from 60-75 deg. F (16-24 deg. C) A few strains ferment well down to 55 deg. F (13 deg. C). 68 deg. F (20 deg. C) is a good average. Lager strains normally ferment from 32-75 deg. F (0-24 deg. C). 50-55 deg. F (10-12 deg. C) is customary for primary fermentation. A slow steady reduction to 32 deg. F (0 deg. C) during secondary fermentation typically works well. The fermentation rate is directly related to temperature. The lower the temperature, the slower fermentation commences. Fluctuations in tempera- ture such as cooling and warming from night to day can adversely affect yeast performance. ATTENUATION Apparent attenuation of yeast normally ranges from 67-77%. The attenuation is determined by the composition of the wort or juice and the yeast strain used. Each yeast strain ferments different sugars to varying degrees, resulting in higher or lower final gravities. This will affect the resid- ual sweetness and body. FLOCCULATION All brewing yeast flocculate. The degree and type of flocculation varies for different yeast. Some strains clump into very lary flocculate. Some floc very little into a more granular consistency. Most yeast strains clump and flocculate to a moderate degree. pH RANGES Typical pH range for yeast fermentations begins at about 5.1 and optimally 4.8. During the course of fermentation the pH reduces to typically 3.9- 4.1 and as low as 3.1 in some wines. ALCOHOL TOLERANCES The alcohol tolerance for most brewing yeast is as least to 8%. Barley wines to 12% can be produced by most Ale strains. Pitching rates need to be increased proportionally to higher gravities. Alternately, Champagne and Wine yeast can be used for high gravities sometimes reaching alcohols to 18%. YEAST PROFILES Ales (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) 1007. Our original Ale Yeast of German origin. Ferments dry and crisp leaving a complex yet mild flavor. Produces an extremely rocky head and ferments well down to 55 deg. F (12 deg. C). Flocculation is high and apparent attenuation is 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 62 deg. F (17 deg. C). 1028. British #2 (London Ale previously British Ale). Rich minerally profile, bold woody slight diacetyl production. Medium flocculation. Apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 68 deg. F (20 deg. C). 1056. American Ale Yeast. Ferments dry, finishes soft, smooth and clean, and is very well balanced. Flocculation is low to medium. Apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 68 deg. F (20 deg. C). 1084. First considered just British, but now more specifically Irish. Slight residual diacetyl is great for stouts. It is clean smooth, soft and full bodied. Medium flocculation and apparent attenuation of 71-75%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 68 deg. F (20 deg. C). 1098. British Ale Yeast from Whitbread. Ferments dry and crisp, slightly tart and well balanced. Ferments well down to 55 deg. F (12 deg. C). Medium flocculation, apparent attenuation 73-75%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 70 deg. F (21 deg. C). 1214. Belgian Ale. (NEW) Abbey-style top fermenting yeast suitable for high gravity beers, doubles, triples,and barley wines. High flocculant strain which clears well. Apparent attenuation 71-75% 1338. European yeast from Wissenschaftliche in Munich. A full bodied complex strain finishes very malty. Produces a dense rocky head during fermentation. High flocculation, apparent attenuation 67-71%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 70 deg. F (21 deg. C). Lager (Saccharomyces uvarum) 2007. Our original Lager Yeast Strain. Specific for pilsner style beers. Known as many things, we call it Pilsen. Ferments dry, crisp, clean and light. Medium flocculation. Apparent attenuation from 71-75%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 52 deg. F (11 deg. C). 2035. American Lager Yeast. Unlike American pilsner styles. It is bold, complex and woody. Produces slight diacetyl. Medium floccu- lation, apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 50 deg. F (10 deg. C). 2042. Danish Yeast Strain. Rich, yet crisp and dry. Soft, light profile which accentuates hop characteristics. Flocculation is low, apparent attenuation is 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 48 deg. F (9 deg. C). 2112. California Lager Yeast. (NEW) Warm fermenting bottom cropping strain, ferments well to 62 F while keeping lager characteristics. Malty profile, highly flocculant, clears brilliantly. Apparent attenuation 72-76%. 2124. Bohemian Lager Yeast. The traditional sazz yeast from Czechoslo- vakia. Ferments clean and malty, rich residual maltiness in high gravity pilsners, medium flocculation, apperent attenuation 69-73%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 48 deg. F (9 deg. C). 2206. Bavarian Yeast Strain used by many German breweries. Rich flavor, full bodied, malty and clean. Medium flocculation, apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 48 deg. F (9 deg. C). 2308. Munich Yeast from Wissenschaftliche in Munich #308. One of the first pure yeast available to American homebrewers. Sometimes unstable, but smooth soft well rounded and full bodied. Medium flocculation, apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 50 deg. F (10 deg. C). Saccharomyces delbrueckii, S. cerevisac 3056. Bavarian Weissen. A 50/50 blend of S. cerevisiae and Delbrueckii to produce a south German style wheat beer with cloying sweetness when the beer is fresh. Medium flocculation, apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 56 deg. F (13 deg. C). Wine Yeast 3021. Prise de mousse, Institute Pasteur champagne yeast race bayanus. Crisp and dry, ideal for sparkling and still red, white and fruit wines. Also can be used for Barley wines. Optimum fermentation temperature: 58 deg. F (14 deg. C). 3028. French wine yeast ideally suited for red and white wines which mature rapidly. Enhances the fruity characteristics of most wines. Optimum fermentation temperature: 72 deg. F (22 deg. C). Malo-lactic Bacteria Leuconostoc oenos 4007. Malo-lactic culture blend isolated from western Oregon wineries. Includes strains Ey2d and Er1a. Excellent for high acid wines and low pH. Softens wines by converting harsh malic acid to milder lactic acid. Can be added to juice any time after the onset of yeast fermentation when sulfur dioxide is less than 15 ppm. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 16:57:00 MDT From: mlh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall) Subject: Boston Brewing Co. Tour Boston Brewing Co. Tour I was recently in Boston for a conference, so I decided to check out the Boston Brewing Company (Samuel Adams beers). I took the "T" (subway) down south of town to Jamaica Plain, and walked through a pretty bad neighborhood to get to the brewery. They only conduct tours twice a week (Saturdays and Thursdays), so I planned ahead. There is a nice area with lots of old Boston beer memorabilia to look at while waiting for the tour to start. There is also a display (*inside* an old conditioning tank) which takes you through the process of making beer and gets you to answer some trick questions about beer. Soon the tour gets started, and a young fellow takes you around and shows you their brewing set-up. His knowledge is somewhat lacking (couldn't even *name* another type of hops besides Hallertauer when queried), but probably adequate for the general public. The brewery is rather small; it only brews beer for the Boston area. Another brewery in Utica, NY brews for the east coast, and west coast Samuel Adams is brewed in Portland, OR. Boston Brewing Co. is definitely a brewery with an attitude. They are decidedly snooty about beer, and about their beer in particular. They make a big deal out of a number of things: 1. Their beer follows Reinheitsgebot (the German beer purity law) and is the only American beer sold in Germany. 2. European beer is not fresh and is adulterated with corn for the American market (of course they are mainly referring to Heineken and Becks, but they don't make a distinction). 3. The big American brewers are great brewers, but don't brew good beers. 4. Beers bottled in green or clear bottles are skunky. They talk about the bottle color being determined by the marketing department when the bottles are green. They use Miller as an example of a beer that gets skunky because it is in a clear bottle, but we homebrewers know that Miller can get away with a clear bottle only because it chemically treats its beers to prevent skunkiness. 5. They won the Great American Beer Festival three years running. The story I've heard on the net is that Sam Adams won the consumer preference poll because they hired a fetching young lass in a revealing outfit to serve their beer and ask for votes. I've also heard that this kind of unfair campaigning was the main reason that the consumer preference poll was discontinued, leaving only the blind panel judging. After the tour, you are escorted into a tasting room where you can sample their wares. We tried Samuel Adams Lager, Samuel Adams Ale, and Samuel Adams Wheat. I must admit that, even though I was a bit put off by their cockiness, I really like their beers. I would describe them as assertively hopped, but not as strongly hopped as an Anchor or a Sierra Nevada beer. They also have a nice maltiness, and the wheat beer had a hint of a clove taste, as well as good wheat character. They also make seasonal beers, including an Oktoberfest, a Winter Ale, a Double Bock, the famous Cranberry Wheat beer (made with a touch of maple syrup for New England flavor), and possibly a Cream Stout (they had just made a small batch when I was there). Alas, they had no samples of their other brews for sale (believe me, I searched). All in all, it was an enjoyable tour, with the tasting being the high point. One note for future tour-takers: the tour guide doesn't keep a good watch on the tap while he's tending the souvenir store, and a quick refill of your pitcher is easily accomplished :-). Michael L. Hall New Mexico Hophead Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 16:37:31 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros) Subject: rosemary ale and porter I made a rosemary ale last month. My basil beer came out well, so I thought rosemary was worth a try (that is, my girlfriend thought it was worth a try). It came out okay, pretty dry (low mash temps)and clean. I will offer this advice: 1/2 oz of fresh rosemary in three gallons of beer is too much. It will be good for cooking though. Also, does anyone have a good Anchor Porter recipe? How is Charlie's Silver Dollar Porter? Should I use California Lager yeast or Irish Ale? - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 16:12:14 PDT From: tpm%wdl58 at wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Tim P McNerney) Subject: 98, 99, Why Wait for the Boil? 100? Anyway, I've been meaning to ask this for a while, but now seems like an oportune moment. Why do most sources suggest adding the malt extract once the water has started boiling? Is there any advantage to adding it then? I did so last time, but was a bit slow with the stirring and ended up with quite a mess from burnt extract and would much rather add the extract when the water is warm. I suppose that if I am #100, this may be a moot point as I will start up all grain, but on the off chance that I am not, any reason not to add the extract at lower temps. ________________________________ - --Tim McNerney - --Loral Western Development Labs - --(408) 473-4748 - --tpm at wdl1.wdl.loral.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 17:22:42 CDT From: rak at mayo.EDU (Ron Karwoski) Subject: Malt Mill By my count, 65 postings as of yesterday. Hope this is 100. Last year I posted a question about using watermelon juice in beer. I read an areticle in the paper that mentioned the Rusiians did this. Anyone have any ideas about how to go about doing this? ============================================================= Ron Karwoski Internet: rak at bru.mayo.edu Biomedical Imaging Resource Mayo Foundation talk: (507)-284-4503 Rochester, MN 55905 FAX: (507)-284-1632 =============================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 17:39:06 MDT From: mlh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall) Subject: Guinness Story My wife was in DC recently, and when she called back to ask if there was anything there that I wanted her to bring back, my mind immediately turned to beer (at least metaphorically). I remembered reading in a recent HBD that DC was one of the test markets for Pub Draught Guinness in a can (I had tried one earlier that I managed to snag in San Francisco), so I remarked that a can or two of that delicious stuff (see note at end) might be nice, if she could swing it. New Mexico is not a thriving distribution center for odd beers. Well, I didn't think much more of it until she got home and I found out that she had brought me --- not a can --- not two cans --- but a CASE of Pub Draught Guinness!! I was ecstatic! It turns out that she had done it the easiest way possible: she just checked the whole case as luggage. She figured that, since it was in cans, it would probably be okay. Anyway, if a few cans did break, the majority would be okay and the hassle factor would be minimized. Well, the whole case made it to our house okay, and I am now (figuratively) sitting on what is in all probability the only case of Pub Draught Guinness in New Mexico. They taste excellent, with no signs of travel fatigue. What a wonderful wife I have! And she doesn't even like stout! (You all have permission to show this to your wives for inspiration :-) Mike Hall Note: For those of you that don't know, the Guinness people have been working on a way to distribute their draught version (which is significantly different from their bottled version) easily. Their draught version is "carbonated" with nitrogen, giving it extremely small bubbles and a very creamy head that lasts until the end of the beer. They finally came up with a way that uses a little plastic insert filled with nitrogen inside a can of beer, with a little hole to let the nitrogen squirt out when the can is opened. It tastes very similar to the draught version. I love it --- it's almost like chocolate milk with a kick. There was a long article in the HBD on it around the time it first came out; check your archives if you want further info. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 16:45:04 PDT From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) Subject: Mt.View Festival OK, now that we have the attendance list for the Oregon festival out of the way, how many HBD'ers will be at the California Small Brewers Festival in Mountain View next weekend? See you there! gak 107/H/3&4 (New .signature under construction) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 19:40 EDT From: tom at kalten.bach1.sai.com (Tom Kaltenbach) Subject: Yeast bank Thanks to everyone who replied to my request for information about the Wyeast liquid yeast cultures. I have another question, which I'm sure has come up in the past, but I'll have to ask again. Does anyone know a mail- order supplier that carries the YEAST BANK for freezing yeast cultures? Thanks. Tom Kaltenbach tom at kalten.bach1.sai.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 17:52:02 MDT From: meh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Mary E. Hall) Subject: Brewer's yeast and dogs There has been a lot of talk on rec.pets.dogs lately about the beneficial aspects of feeding brewer's yeast to your dog. Apparently, the yeast is supposed to have all sorts of good effects, such as repelling fleas. Since I have such a large supply of brewer's yeast in the dregs of a good brew, I would like to somehow make use of this. Does anyone have any experience with giving this to their dogs? How much do you give them? Do you need to do anything to the stuff before feeding it to Rover? Are there any problems with exploding dogs? Thanks, Mary Hall (The wonderful wife who brought back a CASE of Pub Draught Guinness) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 17:05:51 PDT From: Mark N. Davis <mndavis at pbhya.PacBell.COM> Subject: Re: Mead questions > From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU > Subject: Question on mead (Have I won it? :) > > I've noticed that mead, when purchased in stores or in restaurants, is a > rather expensive drink. The Boston Beer Works sells it for $3.95 a glass > (and the glasses are wine-size thingies) while a friend of mine buys > it for $90 a case. > {...deleted...} > Is there something more at work here than market forces in keeping > store-bought so high? Or is this a grab-your-ankles routine? >From what I've experienced with my meads, they really don't even start to get *GOOD* until after at least 6 months, a year is even better. Compare this to the amount of time that the breweries can kick out malt brews and you can see where the cost of making mead is more expensive. I'm sure that the old supply and demand theory comes into play as well, since mead is far from popular as a commercial product. > > ------------------------------ > > From: smith%8616.span at Fedex.Msfc.Nasa.Gov > Subject: mead, JSbashing > > For various reasons, I've been making quick meads lately instead of beers, > using a base of 5 lb honey for a 5 gallon batch and throwing in various > spices and/or fruits. Now, this stuff is good in its own way (not having > tasted anybody else's mead, I can't compare it), but it seems quite thin. > How can one add "body" to a quick mead? Add a little DME? More fruit? My guess is that the key problem here is the *quick* part. Honey is a notoriously slow fermenter, and even after fermentation tends to improve with age. Part of that improvement is a perceived thickness. My first batch of mead was made with only 5 lbs honey, and even after severe aging (I'll be celebrating the remaining 4 bottles 3rd birthday soon - by drinking one!) they are still thin compared to my batch made with 7.5 lbs of honey. > Is this a fruitless quest? *ducks* Note that I don't give a FFAARD about > standard styles, I just want a nice summer beverage that doesn't take > more than a month to complete. 1 1/2 gallons of frozen blackberries, > a jug of honey, several million yeasties and I await your suggestions.... Try this recipe: 1 qt boiling water 4 tea bags lots of ice sugar to taste This is a real quick recipe that is very satisfying on a hot day. I guess you could substitue honey for the sugar to get that *mead* taste >:-) But seriously, as far as I know, there is no one month recipe for mead if you plan on using honey (is there any other way?), but if anyone else knows of one I'd be very interested to here it. Do they make steroids for yeast? Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 16:30:18 PDT From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET (Larry Barello) Subject: Re: temperature control The Hunter Air-Stat retails for $50, can be found for as little as $20. Has a lower limit of 40f - but otherwize is a unit that can't be beat It is designed to minimize the load on your refer while maintaining a -2/+1f temperature control. One issue I have discovered: it is important where you stick the sensor. I used to have mine on the refer wall. Bad idea since the wall is significatly warmer than the contents of the refer. Now the sensor is in the middle (sitting on a keg) lower half and things seem to be working better. Cheers! - Larry Barello Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 17:16:23 PDT From: Mark N. Davis <mndavis at pbhya.PacBell.COM> Subject: San Francisco KQED Beerfest Howdy gang, This Saturday (7/11) is the annual KQED Beerfest in San Francisco. For those within range that are unaware of it, I highly reccommend this event. There are representatives from breweries all over the world, and of course samples of all their brews, as well as many different types of grub. $30 gets you in, buys you a glass and a map, and the rest is up to you. You get 3 hours to taste/chug this wide variety of beer and food, and its an excellent oppurtunity to try all those styles and brands that you never have got around to. The hardest part is trying to remember which brews you liked the best after the 103rd sample, but I like a challenge! Finding the exit afterwards can be quite thrilling as well. For those that can make it, its well worth the time and money. Unfortunately I don't remember the address, but its somewhere around 4th and Townsend. I'm sure you can find out more in the newspaper, or even by calling KQED. Hope to see you all there, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 19:24:07 -0500 From: bronson at ecn.purdue.edu (Edward C. Bronson) Subject: AHA e-mail addresses While perusing the last few months of digests, I noticed e-mail addresses for two of the AHA/Association of Brewers staff members: Charlie Papazian 72210.2754 at compuserve.com James Spence 70740.1107 at compuserve.com Does anyone know of a general e-mail address for the AHA/Zymurgy/ Association of Brewers/The New Brewer/Institute of Brewing Studies offices in Boulder, CO? It would be great to zip off questions, comments, and requests to them by e-mail rather than to use the telephone: handy, more efficient, and less expensive. A thought. Ed P.S. Of course, I also e-mailed this question directly to the above addresses but I thought I'd share this information and besides, #100 is getting very close... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 17:39:05 PDT From: Bruce Mueller <mueller at sdd.hp.com> Subject: San Diego brewpubs I'm sorry to say it, but I believe that the Mission Brewery is now or soon will be defunct. Seems the whole complex is in financial trouble. I'm sad about this because not only is the beer that I've had previously excellent, but also because Paul Holborn, the brewmeister is a great guy. He was behind the Bolt brewery, also now gone. I hope I'm wrong, but :-( probably not. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #923, 07/15/92