HOMEBREW Digest #95 Tue 07 March 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Grape Concentrate (Tom Hotchkiss)
  Killer Party Ale (a.e.mossberg)
  Yeast Culturing Question + Oatmeal Wheat Stout Recipe (dw)
   (Darryl Richman)
  Wyeast #1098 (Pete Soper)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #94 (March 06, 1989) (Darryl Richman)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 6 Mar 89 9:26:10 MST From: Tom Hotchkiss <trh at hpestrh> Subject: Grape Concentrate Full-Name: Tom Hotchkiss I have to apologize for asking a wine question in the brew newsletter, but that's what you get for not controlling the distribution... Anyway, I am a seasoned brewer and decided to try making wine. So, I trucked down to the Brew-it in Fort Collins and picked up a can of grape concentrate and a "how to" book. The book says that concentrate should be stored between 32 and 60 degrees. At 70 degrees it has a shelf life of a few days. According to the book, concentrate which is too old has a slight molasses smell, and will have the color of a cut apple exposed to air (for white concentrate). The concentrate I bought was stored at room temp, was covered with dust, and had the molasses smell and brown color. I went ahead and made the wine anyway, but I have two questions: 1) Will the final product be OK? I mean, will it simply not be as good or will it taste like something extracted from a litter box? 2) Does anyone know a reliable source of grape concentrate? I'm going to try the Wine & Hop Shop in Denver, and if that doesn't work I'll be looking for a mail order source. -- T. Hotchkiss (Proprieter, Chateau Wad) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 89 12:04:29 est From: a.e.mossberg <aem at mthvax.miami.edu> Subject: Killer Party Ale Here's a recipe I got from Craig McTyre at Wine & Brew a couple weeks ago.. It makes a really great beer he calls "Killer Party Ale". For a 5 gallon batch... 2 cans of Pilsner/Lager or American Light Malt 15 cups corn sugar 2 jars Lyle's Golden Syrup (22oz) 2.5 oz Hallertauer hops 2 lbs flaked maize 1 pkt BrewMagic. In 1 gal. water boil malt, golden syrup, sugar and 1.5 oz hops for 8 minutes, add remaining hops and boil for another 2 min. Pour into primary fermenter with 2 gal. water. Bring another gallon to a boil and add flaked maize. Turn off heat and add 1/3 pkt BrewMagic. Let sit 10 min. Add second 1/3 pkt BrewMagic. Let sit another 10 min. Add last 1/3 pkt BrewMagic. Let sit 10 more min. Strain maize into primary fermenter, and rinse with some cold water. Discard maize, and fill primary fermenter to 5 gal. mark. Start S.G. is about 1.090, ending S.G. is about 1.015. Will be around 10.5% alcohol by volume!!! Quite good. aem a.e.mossberg aem at mthvax.miami.edu MIAVAX::AEM (Span) aem at umiami.BITNET (soon) Labor creates all wealth. Return to table of contents
Date: 6 Mar 89 15:12:50 EST (Monday) From: dw <Wegeng.Henr at Xerox.COM> Subject: Yeast Culturing Question + Oatmeal Wheat Stout Recipe First a question, then a recipe... At several net-people's advice my brewing partners and I decided to try liquid yeast cultures. One of us was in England a couple weeks ago, and brought back a few vials of liquid yeast. Well, to make a long story short, we cultured a vial of Vierka Lager yeast and appear to have been quite sucessful (we'll know in a few weeks when our first batch of beer made with this yeast is done). We used the Yeast Bank kit that Williams Brewing sells to save the cultured yeast. Now for the question. Awhile back there was some discussion about alternate sources for the Freeze Shield that comes with the kit, and on yeast propagation using these kits in general. At the time I didn't save the information, but now I'm interested. Did anyone save any of this information (maybe the original authors are listening)? The tubes that came with the kit have Fisher Scientific on their label, so I suspect that I can buy more tubes from them. =============== Now for a recipe. A while back someone asked for a Oatmeal Stout recipe. I didn't see one get posted, so when I ran across this one I thought that someone might be interested. This is copied from the June 1986 issue of "All About Beer". The original brewer is listed as Kenneth Kramer, who according to the magazine took second place in the 1985 AHA Competition, Speciality Catagory. I haven't tried the recipe, nor will I comment on the choice of hops, etc. Ingredients for 5 gallons 4 gal Best Brewing Water 3.3 lbs Edme Irish Stout extract 3.3 lbs Edme Light Beer Extract 3 lbs pale, two row malted barley 2 lbs crystal malt 1 lb wheat malt 1 lb old-fashioned oatmeal 2.5 cups roasted barley 4 cups black patent malt 1 packet Edme yeast 1 stick Brewers Licorice 2 oz fresh Hallertauer hops 1 oz fresh Tettnang hops 0.5 tsp Irish Moss 1 tsp Diastatic Enzyme Powder Starting S.G.: 1.078 Finishing S.G.: 1.032 Fermentation takes place in a closed 5 gallon glass water jug with a blow-off tube attached. Use single stage ferment. Procedure: 1) Crush the pale and crystal malt. Crush the black patent loosely. Place oatmeal loosely in cheesecloth. 2) Mash all grains for 1 1/2 hours except the 2 cups crushed Black Patent, and add the diastatic enzyme. 3) Sparge and begin the boil, add extracts and licorice. 4) After 15 minutes of boil, add 1 oz Tettnang hops and continue boil. After another 15 minutes, add 1/2 oz Hallertauer hops. During the last 15 minutes of the total boil, add Irish Moss and 2 cups crushed Black Patent Malt. During the last two minutes of boil, add 1 oz Hallertauer hops. 5) Cool rapidly and pitch yeast, ferment and bottle as usual. =============== If anyone tries this recipe I'd be interested in the results. /Don Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 89 06:12:45 PST From: Darryl Richman <darryl at ism780c.isc.com> Subject: From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com> Subject: Wyeast #1098 " The ale I recently made with the new Wyeast type 1098 ("Whitbread") came "out very estery. At bottling time there was a very strong smell of apple and "banana. I've experienced a touch of estery aroma at bottling before. This was "VERY much stronger and there was even a fruity flavor in the beer. After two "weeks the aroma is less pronounced but still quite noticeable. The fruity "flavor is gone. In other words, the serious defects have subsided 8^) This is very interesting. At the February Falcons meeting, I participated in our Troubleshooters Corner. There were three different beers that came up for discussion that turned out to be made with 1098, and we identified them right off by their very distinctive, fruity character. All three of the ales I tasted were fermented at the lower end of the temperature range. It's not very often that the yeast plays such a dramatic role. I would expect to get a good dose of esters when using this yeast. " I have the remaining 1/4 packet and am considering using it in one more "batch. The sugar rest temp will obviously be lower but I'm also considering "doing the fermentation at 68-70 degrees too. This may be the only hope. At higher temps, the fermentation will be more vigorous and perhaps will blow off a greater portion of the esters produced. Perhaps an open fermenter would aid in this as well. (That is the tradition in England, and tradition is to be inspected for answers.) --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 89 06:00:32 PST From: Darryl Richman <darryl at ism780c.isc.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #94 (March 06, 1989) From: ephram at violet.berkeley.edu "I have heard refrence to a "roller" type of grain crusher. I assume that this "is in fact 2 steel cylinders set next to each other (like the hot dog cookers " at the game). The rollers have some adjustment for size of gap between them "and they rotate "towards each other" to form a flow through the gap between "the rollers. My question is " "1) Do I want to build such a grinder (crusher) or should I just buy a corona "grain mill? Such a crusher is more in line with the industry specifications, although they may crush wetted grain and their crushers may have up to three sets of rollers. "2) supposing that I decided to create one of these milling machines what are "the specs? in specific, What gap range should I allow for between the rollers? You should try to get whatever gives you the right results: floured interiors and whole husks. In fact you'll probably want to use different settings for different malts: wheat has hardly any husk at all, and should be crushed more thoroughly. "3) What materials should the rollers be made out of? The Falcons built a roller crusher out of two rollers obtained from a junked supermarket checkout conveyor belt. I believe they were made of steel. One member welded together a frame from angle iron and attached the mounts for the rollers. The rollers were driven by chain from a low speed electric motor; there was a referse speed to clear jams. A sheet metal hopper reduced to a long, thin openning just above the two rollers and a sheet metal tray was angled down and out beneath them. The crushed grain was caught in a bucket from the outflow of the tray. The whole shebang could be leaned back onto lawn mower wheels and easily moved about. "4) What speed(s) should I allow the rollers to rotate at? Our crusher was driven pretty slowly, maybe 30-60 rpm as a guess. "5) What diamater roller should I use? These were perhaps 2-3" in diameter. "8) Do I really want to undertake this project? I don't know, and I wasn't in the club when it was built, so I don't know how much agony it caused. --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
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