HOMEBREW Digest #965 Wed 09 September 1992

Digest #964 Digest #966

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Supplier close to NY (Pablo Ares)
  Frank Jones Tour & Dry Hopping ("C. Lyons")
  malt supply in UK, wild hops (Paul I Hilditch)
  "Sterile enough" ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Aerobic vs. Anaerobic (Jon Binkley)
  Budweiser kegs (John Freeman)
  Corsendonk (John Freeman)
  Skimmin the Skum (Brewing Chemist)
  re: dough-in (mcnally)
  Re: Beginner Hop Question (Michael J. Tuciarone)
  Dry ice (Chuck Coronella)
  Big Bad Wold (Jack Schmidling)
  Gott Cooler Lauter Tun COnstruction (KIERAN O'CONNOR)
  Stout Recipe ??? (Chris Estes)
  Proper flaming (John DeCarlo)
  Re: oxidation (John DeCarlo)
  Beginner Hop Question (John DeCarlo)
  How much fresh hops to use? (BELLAGIO_DAVID)
  re: DMS and Briess Malt/Gears for Motorized Mill (John Hartman)
  Re: Electric Corona (Chuck Cox)
  Beer Yeast/Bread Yeast ("George Kavanagh")
  Quest for brewing paraphenalia (Bill Othon/LinCom)
  Conducting the boil and beer color (Richard Goldstein)
  Christmas Brew (steve rein)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 08:13:00 EDT From: pablo at math.sunysb.edu (Pablo Ares) Subject: Supplier close to NY Here is the phone number of a supplier close to NY: Northeast Brewers Supply PO BOX 232 West Kingston, RI 02892 Call toll-free for a catalog at the following numbers: (800) 352-9001 (Outside RI) (800) 974-2739 (In RI) They are good. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 08:29 EDT From: "C. Lyons" <LYONS at adc1.adc.ray.com> Subject: Frank Jones Tour & Dry Hopping I visited the Frank Jones Brewery in Portsmouth NH last Saturday. They have tours at 11AM and 2PM every Saturday. The guide offers the guests samples prior to the tour. Kind of fun tasting the product ahead of time. You may bring your drink with you as you tour the brewery. After the tour ... more samples :-). They only have two products available, with a third to come out next month. Their golden ale is a pilsner, and not much to speak of. Their portsmouth ale is a india pale ale, and is quite good. Their pale ale uses three types of grain: 2-row pale ale, crystal, and carpils. The tour guide (Shawn(sp?)) explained that the carpils are used to give the beer its extra body. All grain is mashed together. The mash consists of a single infusion, 145F for 45 to 60 minutes, with a test for conversion after 45 minutes. Two types of hops are used, Fuggles and Challengers. A 55/45 ratio of Fuggles/Challengers is used for bittering, and Challenger is used for finishing. The wort is boiled for 90 minutes. The first 30 minutes is treated as a sanitation stage with no hops added. The bittering hops are added 30 minutes into the boil. After 90 minutes the boil is stopped and the finishing hops are added (steep). The reason the tour guide gave for not using Fuggles as finishing hops was because it would give the beer a grassy character. He had the group smell the hops, and the Fuggles had a flowery aroma, but did smell green. The Challenger hops were not as aromatic, but seemed more refined, without the green fragrance. This brings me to my question, when I dry hop I've noticed a green (or grassy) flavor. In the past I've used Kent Goldening and Cascades to dry hop. In all cases the grassy flavor from dry hopping was quite pronounced. I've cut back from 10z, to 0.5oz, to 0.25oz. I haven't had a chance to taste the last batch with 0.25oz, but I'm hoping to make the taste less dominating. Does anyone have any recommendations of An alternative hop that would be smoother? Or is this the flavor that people seek when they dry hop? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1992 15:44:31 +0100 From: Paul I Hilditch <oxcommed at vax.ox.ac.uk> Subject: malt supply in UK, wild hops John Sampson asks (hbd952) about malt suppliers in southern England. I buy malt by the sackful from: Pops Homebrew, Cheltenham 0242 232426 On another subject, I noticed one or two postings mentioning wild hops recently. Round here there is one place where a lot of hops are growing; since this is near two quite old inns, I wonder if this is a population of naturalised hops dating from the time when the innkeepers would have brewed their own beer. Hops are generally pretty rare in the wild otherwise. Has anyone any experiences of using wild/naturalised hops? How can I judge the quality of the cones (other than by tasting the final product)? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 10:44:24 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: "Sterile enough" I've recently been discussion yeast culture with my wife, who cultures E. Coli almost daily (she's a molecular biologist). She feels that many of us are being overly paranoid about infection -- she rarely flames her tubes, etc, nor does she feel that a "sterile box" is necessary. A fellow in her lab has a term: "sterile enough". Now there is a question as to whether we have good reason to want a greater degree of sterility (if it indeed has degrees), because of factors such as * Beer wort is (initially) a very attractive medium for lots of nasty things to grow in. (As opposed to specialized culture media?) * Yeast in beer grows for a much longer period than the typical "plate culture" in a lab. It's kind of funny -- I'm running around paranoid about infection and she's much more casual. Familiarity breeds comtempt? =S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 09:18:56 -0600 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Sometime last week I wrote: >>Another seeming paradox of open fermentation which confused me >>for quite some time is: given fermentation is an ANaerobic >>process, how can it take place in an open, aerobic environment? In Digest #963, Jack S. asked: >Would not the fact that a blanket of CO2 over the beer make it an anerobic >environment? While the CO2 level would be too high for you or I to breathe, I'm pretty sure that there would be too much oxygen exchange for it to be formally called anaerobic; labs working with obligate anaerobic bugs go to some pretty extreme measures to keep ANY 02 out of their systems. At least one brewery which employs open fermentation, Samuel Smiths, not only ferments in open tanks but actively aerates the wort throughout primary fermentation. They have what looks like a fountain head in the middle of each of their big slate tanks and periodically pump the fermenting beer through it. Seeing this was what got me perplexed in the first place- all my biochem profs and textbooks said that alcoholic fermentation was an obligate anaerobic process. Luckily for us, the yeast don't listen to them. Jon Binkley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 10:40:12 CDT From: jlf at palm.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: Budweiser kegs > Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 12:43:17 EDT > From: Arthur Delano <ajd at itl.itd.umich.edu> > Subject: Bud keg help needed again > > > What tool(s) is(are) needed to open a Budweiser keg? I've been able to > drain out all the old beer by pressing on the ball valve and letting > the overcarbonated beer do its thing (all over me, unfortunately). But > now i want to fill it and don't know how to remove the valve/stem assembly > to get to the insides. > I haven't bought a Bud keg in many years, but I have one from a previous life. It is technically known as a Golden gate keg. Mine has two fittings, one on the top and one on the side near the bottom. My brother made a special tool to remove the valves, which is no more than a flat plate welded to a handle. The flat plate is the right width to fit into the slot of the fitting. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 10:52:02 CDT From: jlf at palm.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: Corsendonk After seeing the brand name Corsendonk mentioned here in the digest, and seeing it in a store, I bought a bottle. I'm glad that's all I bought. Perhaps I got a bad bottle, but it tasted infected. Mind you, I've never had a Belgian beer before, so I don't know if they are supposed to taste this way. But, when my beer has tasted like this, I poured it out. I didn't know I should have been selling it for $3 per bottle. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 09:54:00 -0600 From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brewing Chemist) Subject: Skimmin the Skum Howdy Folks, I started a batch of mead the other day. While looking for recipes, techniques, etc., I came across Byron Burch's recipe for his "Alberta Frost" mead which won him best of show last June. In his recipe he said that you should skim the scumk that forms on the top of the honey during the boil. And, I believe that I have seen this advice at least one other time. My question is, why? I do remember talk of skimming wort when boiling to prevent boilover. Is this the reason in mead? Live Long and Prosper, Brian J Walter | I ) I I <~ I_I | |~~| Relax, |~~| Colorado State University | I \ I_I _> I I | (|HB| Don't Worry, |HB|) walter at lamar.colostate.edu | ROCKS! | |__| Have A Homebrew |__| Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 92 09:00:51 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: re: dough-in If you're doing a single-step mash by heating water and adding the grain to the water, the dough-in step is a pain. I've had success in breaking up flour by using a big wire whisk vigorously for a couple of minutes after dumping the dry grain into the mash water. _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 09:30:56 PDT From: tooch at auspex.com (Michael J. Tuciarone) Subject: Re: Beginner Hop Question > 1) I added hops to my last brew for the first time. I did not want the hassel > of sparging the leaves so I improvised. I boiled the hops in a small pot of > water for 30 minutes. (I used pellets) I then used a coffee filter to add > the hop water to my boiling wort. I stirred it in and transfered it to a open > primary. Is this an acceptable way to add the bittering qualities of hops to > my brew? Or, am I missing something really important by not boiling them in > my wort? I've never tried this particular technique. The only serious objection I can think of is that the hop bittering efficiency is strongly dependent on the volume of the boiling liquid (at least, according to some learned reprints a friend gave me, which I don't have at hand). Apparently the hop acids et al. reach equilibrium quickly, and 2 oz. of 4% alpha acid hops produce *much* more bitterness in a five-gallon boil than in a two-gallon boil. But I don't know...you're performing a grand experiment now, so let us all know how it comes out. By the way, sparging the hop pellets or even flowers isn't really that bad. When I use a bucket for my primary, I fit the top with an elasticized disk of fine nylon mesh I got from the local homebrew store. I pour the wort through the mesh...that's that. When fermenting in a carboy, I siphon the wort in, and since hops generally float I haven't had any trouble there, either. By the time I get down to the bottom of the pot, I can just pour the last gallon or so through a mesh-lined funnel by hand. If your local shop doesn't carry any hop-straining cheesecloth or nylon gadgets, let me know and I'll dig up a mail-order address. The gadgets are really really cheap and helpful. > 2) My last batch of beer is undercarbonated. I used 1 cup of corn sugar to > prime 5 gallons. It has been sitting at room temp. for 2 weeks now and still > the problem persists. I think it is because I did not leave a large enough > air space in the bottle. If I pour out some of the beer and recap the bottles > and leave them for another week, will carbination increase? If I do this will > the risk of contamination greatly increase? Will there still be enough sugar > and active yeast in the bottle to further increase carbination? Personally, I *never* mess with the bottles after bottling, because it's at bottling that I most often cause infections. One cup in five gallons is more than adequate; in fact, I've had over-carbonated beer using one cup and lately I've been cutting back to 3/4 cup. Air space may not be the issue: even one or two finger's worth of space is adequate. (You didn't fill the bottles right up to the lip, did you?) Most likely you have some slow-working yeast there. Give it another week, since I've had beer that has taken three to four weeks to carbonate properly. > P.S. I am posting these questions because I really need help and because of > the plea not to blast beginners in the last digest. "Relax." :-) Mike Tuciarone, Software Thumb Auspex Systems, Santa Clara, CA 94043; 408-492-0900 vox -0566 fax "What for you bury me in the cold, cold ground?" --Tasmanian Devil Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 11:05 MTS From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU> Subject: Dry ice As you may recall, I recently asked the readership for advice regarding the use of ascorbic acid for the purpose of preventing (or repairing) damage to a finished beer due to oxidation at bottling time. Judging from the low number of responses (2), I guess not too many people bother with it. This is a very relaxed crowd, who obviously don't worry too much about oxidation. But, I can't help it- I've got this mead that's been sitting in my carboy for nearly a year now, and I don't want to take any chances. I happened to read my summer edition of Zymurgy the other day, and in it, Charlie P. advocates the use of dry ice. It's such a simple concept! Just take a chunk of dry ice, and put it in the bottom of your bottling bucket, and allow it to "melt" (actually, sublime.) As the CO2 changes from solid to gas, it will displace the air in the container, and, since it is somewhat heavier than air, it will (hopefully) stay there. This, then, is my solution. I will throw a chunk of dry ice into my bucket before racking, allow it to fully sublime, rack and bottle my mead, and then cap with SmartCaps to absorb any O2 thay may have made its way into the bottles in the mean time. But, now that I think about it, I wonder if the dry ice might be full of contaminants and nasties. Any thoughts on that? Trying to relax, Chuck Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 11:44 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Big Bad Wold To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >As a beginner who is just starting to experiment with his brew, I have a few questions. I would normally assume that the Digest would be flooded with answers but in light of the recent remarks about a "Jack Free Forum" and today's limited entries, we may be all that is left. So here goes.... >1) I added hops to my last brew for the first time. I remember the first batch I made with real hops. It was the first time I ever smelled the stuff and really got hooked on that smell. The hopped extract is a rather poor substitute. > I did not want the hassel of sparging the leaves so I improvised. I boiled the hops in a small pot of water for 30 minutes. (I used pellets) I then used a coffee filter to add the hop water to my boiling wort. I am affraid what you did is not much of an improvement on what they do in hopped extract. They basically add "hops extract" to the malt extract. A much better approach would be to add pellets directly to the wort and boil it for the full time. You can use Kinney's copper scrubber around a syphon or my system of a short roll of window screen pinched off at the end. I suspect a copper scrubber stuffed in a funnel would also make an acceptable filter. I will let the experts fill in the details but a whole bunch of chemestry takes place while the hops boils in the wort and it just does not occure when done separately. >2) My last batch of beer is undercarbonated. I used 1 cup of corn sugar to prime 5 gallons. It has been sitting at room temp. for 2 weeks now and still the problem persists. I think it is because I did not leave a large enough air space in the bottle. The head space has little or nothing to do with carbonation level. There are a number of possible causes/solutions to you problem: Time.... give it a few more weeks before you condemn it. The is particuarly true in cold weather. Incompletely rinsed bottle. If any bleach was left in the bottles, it would kill the yeast. However, you said under- not un- carbonated so I doubt this is the problem. There are other possibilities but I would bet it will improve with time. If not, try adding a little more sugar to a few bottles just to see what happens. BTW, when I was using bottles, I always bottled several samples in plastic pop bottles just to monitor the carbonation. When they get hard, you know they are carbonated without having to open them. >P.S. I am posting these questions because I really need help and because of the plea not to blast beginners in the last digest. Well, now you know that, the Big Bad Wolf is a myth. His teeth are sharp but he only bites in self-defence. js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 11:32 EDT From: KIERAN O'CONNOR <OCONNOR%SNYCORVA.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Gott Cooler Lauter Tun COnstruction Hi, I'm starting to make the move to all grain. I have seen some discussion about Lauter Tun cconstruction with Gott Cooles. I would appreciate help form any and all on this topic. What I was thinking was: 1) Get a round gott cooler. 2) Cut the bottom off a bottling or other bucket, leaving about and inch or so of plastic. If I put this in upside down, I would have a grain bed. 3) I'm not sure how to replace the spigot, so I could use some help here. I would love some help. perhaps of, via personal mail off HBD would be best, since some of this has been discussed before. Kieran O'Connor oconnor at snycorva.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 13:48:37 -0400 From: cestes at argos5.DNET.NASA.GOV (Chris Estes) Subject: Stout Recipe ??? Hi everyone... Will wonders never cease??? Whilst at a local watering hole (serving a decent variety of beers: Roratonga Rodeo in Arlington, VA) this weekend, I discovered that my sweetie does indeed have a taste for beer, heretofore unknown to either of us. What struck a happy chord upon her palate was a particular variety of stout, a very sweet stout. We discovered two which she enjoyed: Watney's Cream Stout and Dragon Stout from Jamaica. I've had a few stouts in my time, but these were _sweet_; like they had sugar added or something. Can anyone suggest an extract based recipe for such a beer? Thanks, -Chris Estes- cestes at argos5.dnet.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 8 Sep 1992 14:23:13 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Proper flaming JS writes: >So to make sure, I heat the loop cherry red and the glass rod >till I know it is hot. The problem is, if you then poke it into >the yeast to transfer it, the yeast gets fried unless you let it >cool. While cooling, it is in the unsterile air and one never >really knows when it is cool. A solution to cooling that people have recommended to me (including my wife the microbiologist) is to use cooled sterile water. Of course this water doesn't remain sterile very long once exposed to air, but presumably you are organized and not spending forever transferring with the loop. As others have mentioned, the unused part of your plate works as well. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 8 Sep 1992 14:23:52 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: oxidation >From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros) >With the talk about oxidation, it is said that shaking COOL wort >is good--leads to aeration which yeast like. Then it is said >that shaking beer (before bottling) is bad--leads to oxidation >which taste buds don't like. So what is the difference in the >two settings? Why is unfermented cooled wort not as susceptible >to oxidation? Roughly speaking, there are two basic processes in action as far as oxygen is concerned in brewing: 1) Yeast will use dissolved oxygen in the wort to reproduce. Lack of dissolved oxygen can cause poor fermentation. An article in _zymurgy_ claimed that this is the biggest problem for beginning homebrewers. 2) Oxidizing reactions will occur for certain molecules in wort, causing new molecules that adversely affect the taste, can darken the wort, and probably a handful of other things. Believe me, you don't want to hurt your beer any more than you have to. :-) *Plus*, the 2) processes occur *much* faster at high temperatures than low ones. I know someone posted some numbers on this in the HBD, though I couldn't find it with my limited data base at work. Anyway, the molecules will oxidize at least several orders of magnitude faster at boiling temperatures than at 60F. So, even though you risk causing 2) when you aerate for 1), if you do it just before or shortly after you pitch the yeast, and the wort is cool, the dissolved oxygen should be used by the yeast and not cause perceptible levels of oxidation.  Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 8 Sep 1992 14:24:41 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Beginner Hop Question >From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023 at NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA> >2) My last batch of beer is undercarbonated. I used 1 cup of >corn sugar to prime 5 gallons. It has been sitting at room >temp. for 2 weeks now and still the problem persists. I think >it is because I did not leave a large enough air space in the >bottle. If I pour out some of the beer and recap the bottles >and leave them for another week, will carbination increase? If >I do this will the risk of contamination greatly increase? Will >there still be enough sugar and active yeast in the bottle to >further increase carbination? Hmmm. I sincerely doubt that lack of head space (air space) in the bottle is the problem. I leave about 1/4" to 1/8" in my bottles, as a rule, with no carbonation problems at all. Even those I overfill leaving no head space carbonate just fine. Perhaps there is some other factor in the process you used to bottle (sometimes a problem mixing in the sugar syrup cuases some bottles to be undercarbonated and others to be overcarbonated) that is affecting carbonation. Room temperature is at least 70F, right? What kind of carbonation level do you have now? Are you sure the bottle caps were crimped tightly? Does it have a good head but poor carbonation or good carbonation but no head? Before you consider rebottling, check the rest of the process. Anyway, I always tell people that if you can ask the right questions, you are more than halfway to the solution <grin>. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: 8 Sep 92 11:13:00 -0700 From: BELLAGIO_DAVID at Tandem.COM Subject: How much fresh hops to use? I recently brewed a batch of IPA with some fresh Cascade hops I received from a friend. These were just recently harvested. They sure looked great. Not like the ones I get at the brew store all packaged up. BTW, I did not use my Oak Chips as I didn't want to possibly make an overly woody beer and as people pointed out, traditional IPA does not have an Oak barrel flavor. So, now I have a few questions: 1) Is there a way to determine the AAU from the hops I have? I assume there is now way, but, the most potent Cascade hops I have seen in the store are around 7.8% AAU. Is there a maximum AAU for each type of hops or could any hop type be at any AAU level? 2) Are pellet hops fresher than the whole hops purchased at brew stores? One book I have read states that they are, but the store I go to always pushes their whole hops claiming that they are fresh. Maybe they just want to move their inventory. Super Dave Bellagio_David at Tandem.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 92 12:30:11 EDT From: CW06GST <CW06GST%SJUMUSIC.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: NOVICE QUESTIONS Hello All, I hate to do this but...about a week and a half ago I posted an article under the title "The Novice Revisited". The day after I sent in the article my node at SJUVM was shut down and consequently I was not able to receive any mail. In that post I asked a few questions and if anyone answered them I appreciate it but I was not able to read them. I will repost a summary of the questions and ask that if you answered them in the first place that you resend them to me at CW06GST at SJUVM. Of course all are welcome to comment, suggest, flame or do whatever you want as I am not easily offended. I will post a summary of answers if it is warranted. 1. Can anyone suggest some good reading material other than Papazian or Miller? Preferably something entertaining as well as informative. 2. Please send suggestions, comments, tips, recipes, advice on the following styles of beer: Porter, Stout and Marzan. I will soon have access to a refridgerator and would like to try making lager beer. Unfortunately I am only able to brew extract beers presently, so please post accordingly. 3. I recently tried to make a mead and would like to know how long it takes to ferment. When I went to the homebrew supply store they told me to add 1 pkg. of yeast for every gallon of mead. It was a wine yeast that looked and smelled like ground up mushrooms. I also added a package of yeast nutrient. After about 12 hours very vigorous activity began and the fermentation lock blew of 3 times. It has been about 2 weeks now and there is still a lot of activity in the fermenter. Also, what can I expect the finished product to taste like? I have never tasted mead. 4. Finally, if there are any brewclubs in the lower Westchester, NYC area, my partner and I would be interested in joining; if there are other brewers in this part of New York who are interested in forming a brewclub please let me know. Thanks to everyone for this wondeful forum. Erik Zenhausern CW06GST at SJUVM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 10:18:54 PDT From: hartman at varian.varian.com (John Hartman) Subject: re: DMS and Briess Malt/Gears for Motorized Mill I too am speaking up to say that I have had a recent DMS experience and I use Briess malt. I couldn't figure what might have caused this as nothing unusual occurred during the process. It simply smelled mightily of cooked corn. It's an experience you do not want to have. I had to throw that 10 gal. batch out, which was quite a disappointment. I wish I could say for sure that the problem was the malt, but I can't since apparently an infection can cause high levels of DMS. Micah's test sounds pretty conclusive though. Way back in digest 765, 11-21-91, Jack Schmidling pointed out that in the direct firing process the grain is "sulphured". The grain is sprayed with sulphur as a means of reducing the nitrosamines to a level below the FDA limit of 10ppb. Maybe they forgot to wash the sulphur off after the process or they used too much sulphur. Who knows. Perhaps the Briess people know. At any rate does anyone have a reasonably priced California source for Great Western Malts? If you do, please speak up. On a different topic, I plan on motorizing my grain mill. I have a 1700 rpm, 1/4 HP motor which I'd like to use. I'll be attaching it to the mill with what I guess you'd call pulley wheels and a radiator belt. I don't know who sells these pulleys though. Does anyone have a vendor for such pulleys, or at least an idea of what type of vendor sells them? Thanks in advance, John hartman at varian.varian.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 14:11:39 EDT From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: Re: Electric Corona Thanks for all the useful suggestions about elecrifying my Corona. Here's what I did: I made a small sawhorse with the cross-beam sticking out 8" or so on one end. I Added a 4"x4" shelf on the side of the long end. When the Corona is mounted on this shelf, it is parallel to the beam and discharges over the end. I made a simple drill mount with some scrap 2x4 which bolts to the handle bolt hole on the drill. Using empty bleach bottles, I fabricated a larger hopper and a discharge guard. I attached some flexible ducting to make a dischage chute that empties into a small barrel. Looking down at the empty chassis: ----------------------------- legs / / / / cross-beam +---+ +---+ / | | +---+ | | / +-----------------+-+---+-+---------------+ +-----------------+------++---------------+ | | | | ++ | | +----+ +---+ \ +---+ \ \ \ \ drill mount bracket \ mill mount shelf Looking at the side: drill mount bolt / / bit of wood to help support drill +-------+ / | o ++ / +------++ | | +----+---+---+---------------------+---+--+ +-+--+ | | | | | +-+------| |---------------------| |--+ | | | | | | | | | | +-----------------------------+ | +-----------------------------+ \ | | | | \ +---+ +---+ \ bit of wood to help support shelf With everything attached: +-----------+ | | | | ----- extra hopper (approx 5 lb capacity) | | \ / +-------+ | | | | corona w/ large hopper discharge | | / chute \ / / big variable speed drill \ \ _ / / / \ ----\/ | /------------+ / \ / | |==--=< ++ \ / /-+ | \-----\ \--++ / / +-++ |\ _\ / /----+||-+---+---------------------+---+--+ / /+-+--+|| | | | | | / / +-+=====-| |---------------------| |--+ | | | | | | +---------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | +-----------------------------+ | | +-----------------------------+ | | | | | | +---------+ +---+ +---+ Its not quite as unbalanced as it looks. The drill is fairly heavy, and the sawhorse extends far enough back to act as a counter-balance. I have only tested it with small amounts of grain. I hope to have my new brewery finished this week, then I'll run about 20 lbs through it. - -- Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> In de hemel is geen bier, daarom drinken wij het hier. Return to table of contents
Date: 08 Sep 92 16:39:31 EST From: "George Kavanagh" <GEORGE.KAVANAGH at OFFICE.WANG.COM> Subject: Beer Yeast/Bread Yeast Being both a homebrewer and a homebaker, and having read many articles in HBD about beer yeasts & their culturing, incubation, & life cycle, it occurs to me to ask of the similarities/differences between beer yeasts & bread yeasts: * does anyone know of a reference that describes bread yeasts, their likes & dislikes, lifecycles, & etc.? Thanks in advance..... -gk Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 16:39 CDT From: othon at ial7.jsc.nasa.gov (Bill Othon/LinCom) Subject: Quest for brewing paraphenalia I'm not sure this is the proper forum for this question, but since there are a number of experienced, well-travelled beer drinkers here, I'll ask. I'm looking for a Guiness dartboard cabinet. And actually, if there is some kind of catalog of general paraphenalia from British, American, or European breweries, I'd like to find out about it. Thanks Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 14:57:07 PDT From: Richard.Goldstein at EBay.Sun.COM (Richard Goldstein) Subject: Conducting the boil and beer color OK homebrew fans-- I have two questions, and I believe that they are at least partially related. 1) What is the proper way to conduct a boil (for an all-grain brew)? Dave Miller talks about a strong, vigorous boil for at least the first 30 min to help the protein coagulation. And homebrewing companions have talked about a roiling boil to get the most out of the hops. But do I really want that full-strength of a boil for the whole boil? The reason I am wondering is that I seem to be boiling off more than most of the books/recipes assume. If I sparge to 6.5 gals, I can easily boil away 1.5 gals rather than 1.0 gals that are usually assumed. I'm not using a blast furnace or anything, just a plain old gas stove. Beside leaving me with less finished product, we now go to question #2... 2) How do I make a light colored beer? This may sound funny, but I haven't really been able to get a pale (straw colored?) brew. I'm talking about beers made with 2 row Klages malt, and maybe an adjunct like Vienna malt. I realize that my full-blast boils are carmelizing my wort, and that is difficult to avoid to a certain extent. But what do you folks do to create light colored beers? Are there any other dangers/defects/flaws I should be aware of due to vigorous boiling? Thanks for your input. Rich Goldstein richardg at cheesewiz.sun.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 15:08:56 PDT From: rein at gandalf.Berkeley.EDU (steve rein) Subject: Christmas Brew Greetings, More Experienced Ones! I've brewed up 2 batches so far and haven't yet left the world of extract brews. I'm interested in brewing up a batch of Christmas Beer (you know, spiced and more highly charged). However, I'm not ready to take the full plunge until well after Christmas. Do any of you have a recipe that only uses malt extract (malt syrup of various types are available cheap near here) for a Christmas Ale? How about a version that uses mostly extract? many thanks, steve rein There are three kinds of lies: lies, rein at stat.berkeley.edu damned lies, and statistics - Disraeli Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #965, 09/09/92