HOMEBREW Digest #1194 Mon 02 August 1993

Digest #1193 Digest #1195

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Possible solution to commercial posts ? (Murray Robinson)
  Dixie Cup 1993 (long) (Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral)
  Dixie Cup 1993 Events (Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral)
  re: clean glasses and head retention (Paul LaBrie)
  bos93.txt (Robin Garr)
  aha93.txt (Robin Garr)
  hot water / starting starters (Ed Hitchcock)
  Overnight mashing ("William A Kitch")
  My pale ale recipe (npyle)
  yeast culture miscellany (Todd Gierman)
  Extract Efficency & Duvel Yeast ("Manning, Martin P")
  Diacetyl rests (Jim Busch)
  Supply Stores in Berkeley/Oakland CA Area (parsons1)
  please cancel my subscription (Riccardo Cristadoro)
  Barreling Beer (Philip J Difalco)
  Sour Beer (was Re: Dallas beer/Cellis) (Paul Jasper)
  Chili VS Jalapeno (Wolfe)
  Traditional Porter vs East Coast Porter? (lyons)
  Efficiency question (Ulick Stafford)
  West Coast Brewery addresses (dschultz)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 13:25:34 +0930 From: Murray Robinson <robinm at mrd.dsto.gov.au> Subject: Possible solution to commercial posts ? After reading the discussions about whether or not commercial posts should be allowed on the Homebrew Digest I checked up on an automatic mailer package that may hold one solution to the problem. Mail-Net (automatic mailing list handling software) allows uses to subscribe to different "channels" of the same news group. For example, the HBD could have a "commercial" and "non-commercial" channel. When users subscribe to the newsgroup they would specify which channel they wish to receive and when posting articles they would specify which channel the article should go to. Non-commercial submissions would appear on both channels of the HBD whereas commercial submissions would only appear on the commercial channel of the HBD. eg If I wanted to receive both commercial and non commercial postings of the HBD I would subscribe to the HBD with the following keyword in either the header or first line of the message: "X-Mn-Key: commercial" Then if I wanted to post a non commercial submission I would specify the subject in the header as usual and put the keyword "X-Mn-Key: non-commercial" in the first line of my message. Similarly if I wanted to post what would be deemed to be a commercial submission I would specify "X-Mn-Key: commercial" in the first line of the message. This approach obviously doesn't solve the fundamental differences of opinion about the content of the HBD but it does offer some freedom from commercial posts if that is what you want. Ofcourse the whole system falls down if the keyword "X-Mn-Key: commercial" is not put on the first line of commercial posts. Food for thought anyway. Cheers, Murray. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 02:22:59 CDT From: Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral <slamb at milp.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Dixie Cup 1993 (long) ANNOUNCING THE 10th ANNUAL DIXIE CUP HOMEBREW COMPETITION Yes, folks, it's that time of year again. And if you didn't notice, the Houston Foam Rangers are trying to get off their backsides and actually get this thing organized early this year! The 1993 Dixie Cup will be held Ocotber 15 and 16 at the Houston Holiday Inn West. The official Dixie Cup Entry stuff can be requested from the folks at DeFalco's Home Wine and Beer Supplies 5611 Morningside, Houston, TX 77098 (713) 532-8154. The contents of the official stuff takes precedence over anything in this post (in case I goof). ELIGIBILITY Anyone can enter, the competition is open to all non-commercial,home-produced beers. Beers produced on the premises of a commercial brewery are not eligible. You may enter as often as you wish, but only two entries per category/subcategory per person please. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Each entry shall consist of 3 bottles, preferrably 11-12 oz. All labels must be removed, but caps don't have to be blacked out. An entry label must be attached to each bottle of the entry, with all information required on the form filled in. (Actually, all we need is you name, a telephone no., full snail mail address, category abbreviation, club affiliation, and any special ingredients or deviant style info, so you could type this up yourself and forgo the "official" form) PLEASE USE RUBBER BANDS TO ATTACH THE FORM TO THE BOTTLE. A complete recipe form should accompany each entry. (We want to print the recipies later in the newsletter, if you win. You can always give it to us after you get a ribbon). ENTRY DEADLINE/FEES Entries, paperwork and cash moola must be in the hands of the staid employees of DeFalco's Home Whine & Beer Supplies no later than 4PM, SATURDAY, 9 OCTOBER. The Fee is $6.00 before 1 October, $7.00 after. A $1.00 discount is given to club members. (Start your own club?) DeFlaco's address is 5611 Morningside, Houston, TX 77005. Phone: (713) 523-8154 FAX: (713) 523-5284. NO ENTRIES WILL BE ACCEPTED AFTER 9 OCTOBER! PACKING/SHIPPING It is suggested theat each bottle be wrapped in bubble pack or newspaper. Place one entry (3 bottles) in a small box and fill with paper or other packing mat'l. Line a bigger box with a plastic bag and put all smaller boxes in it. Pack the smaller boxes into the big box with paper or packing mat'l. Tie the bag, and s eal the box securely. Label the box FRAGILE and THIS END UP appropriately. We suggest that you ship via UPS, if they ask tell them it's bottles, but they're well packed. Try labelling the box KITCHEN SUPPLIES. WE SUGGEST THAT YOU SEND YOUR ENTRIES ASAP, BEERS THAT ARRIVE EARLIER SEEM TO DO BETTER IN COMPETITION. JUDGING Judging will take place in three open sessions 15 & 16 October. The first round will be Friday night, the second round and best of show judging will be Saturday afternoon. WE NEED JUDGES! We expect approx. 650 entries, and need help getting the work done. The competition is AHA/HWBTA recognized, and we'll get you as many BJCP points as is humanly possible for this gig (1 for judging, etc.). AWARDS THE DIXIE CUP TROPHY is awarded to the club that garners the most points on the following basis: 1st in category - 3 pts. 2nd in cat. - 2 pts., 3rd in cat. - 1 pt. CLUB QUALITY AWARDS are given to the clubs with the top five scores (I've never understood how this works) in the preliminary round. The awards are sponsored by Crosby and Baker, and consist of gift certificates redeemable at any homebrew shop that does business with Crosby&Baker. 1st place $50, 2nd place $35, 3rd place $15. INDIVIDUAL AWARDS for each category 1st place - A magnificent stein and a swell ribbon 2nd place - A nifty ribbon 3rd place - A nice ribbon BEST OF SHOW Best Beer overall - Super Deluxe Pedastal for your stein Best All Grain - Deluxe Stein Best Extract - Deluxe Stein Best Mead - Deluxe Stein MIKE TEMPLETON AWARD given in memory of one of the original Foam Rangers, it is awarded to the individual who collects the most points at the Dixie Cup using the same rules as the Gulf Coast Homebrewer of the Year. GULF COAST HOMEBREWER OF THE YEAR is awarded to the brewer who accumulates the most points in the Dallas/Fort Worth Bluebonnet Brew-off, the New Orleans Crescent City Challenge, the Orlando Sunshine Challenge, and the Dixie Cup. Points are awarded as follows: 3 pt.s for 1st place in a category, 2 pts. for a 2nd place, and 1 pt. for a 3rd place. The Dixie Cup is the last competition of the series, and the winner will be announced at the Dixie Cup. CATEGORIES (abbreviations for labels given in parens) I. LAGERS LIGHT/PALE LAGERS 1. American Light (AL) Continental Lights 2a. Pilsner (CLP) 2b. Munich Helles (CLM) 2c. Dortmund Export (CLD) AMBER LAGERS 3. Oktoberfest/Marzen/Vienna (OV) 4. Steam Beer (SM) DARK LAGERS 5. Continental Dark (CD) SPECIAL STYLE LAGERS 6a. Traditional Dark Bock (BKD) 6b. Light Helles Bock (BKL) 7. Strong Lagers (SL) II. ALES LIGHT&AMBER ALES 8a. Alt Beers (GAA) 8b. Kolsch Beers (GAK) 9. Light Ale (LA) 10a. Classic Pale Ale (CPA) 10b. India Pale Ale (IPA) 10c. American Pale Ale (APA) DARK ALES 11. Brown Ales and Milds (BAM) 12. California/Texas Brown Ales (CTB) 13a. Traditional Porter(POT) 13b. East Coast Porter(POE) 14. Sweet Stout (SS) 15. Dry Stout (DS) OTHER ALES 16a. Old Ales (SAO) 16b. Barley Wines (SAB) 16c. Imperial Stouts (SAI) 16d. Trappist Ales (SAT) 16e. Strong Scotch Ales (SAS) 17a. Light German Wheat Beers (WLG) 17b. Light American Wheat (WLA) 17c. Amber and Dark Wheat Beers (WBD) III. UNUSUAL BEER STYLES 18. Novelty Beers 19. Fruit Beers 20. Specialty Beers IV. MEAD Meads will be judged as Traditional or Flavored 21. Still Meads (MST) 22. Sparkling Meads (MSP) note -this was left off the mail-out thing! Descriptions of the beer styles can be found in the offcial stuff. Please enter early and often! - -------------------------------------------------------- . _ . _____________ |\_|/__/| / \ / / \/ \ \ / Happy! Happy! \ /__|O||O|__ \ \ Joy! Joy! / |/_ \_/\_/ _\ | \ ___________/ | | (____) | || |/ \/\___/\__/ // _/ (_/ || | Real ||\ Sean Lamb (slamb at milp.jsc.nasa.gov) \ Beer //_/ \______// Houston, Texas, USofA, Earth, Sol __|| __|| (____(____) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 02:23:38 CDT From: Sean C. Lamb 335-6669 Loral <slamb at milp.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Dixie Cup 1993 Events ANNOUNCING THE 10th ANNUAL DIXIE CUP HOMEBREW COMPETITION Yes, folks, it's that time of year again. And if you didn't notice, the Houston Foam Rangers are trying to get off their backsides and actually get this thing organized early this year! The 1993 Dixie Cup will be held Ocotober 15 and 16 at the Holiday Inn Houston West. The official Dixie Cup Entry stuff can be requested from the folks at DeFalco's Home Wine and Beer Supplies 5611 Morningside, Houston, TX 77098 (713) 532-8154. The contents of the official stuff takes precedence over anything in this post (in case I goof). ATTENDING THE DIXIE CUP HOTEL RESERVATIONS can be had by calling the Holiday Inn 800 number (don't have it with me) or by calling the Holiday Inn Houston West directly at (713) 558-5580. The rate is $52 per room per night, and don't forget to ask for the Dixie Cup rate, and mention the quoted rate. The address of the hotel is 14703 Park Row, it is on the north side of Interstate 10 at the junction of Highway 6 on the far west side of Houston. SCHEDULE OF EVENTS Friday, 15 October 1200-1700 Set-up, call DeFlaco's to help 1745 sharp Assembly of first round judges 1800-1830 Judge and Steward orientation 1830-2230 1st round judging 2230-2315 Potluck dinner 2315-2400 Fred Eckhardt Epicurean Extravaganza Saturday, 16 October 0830-1130 Milli-Conference and Breakfast ($12) or BJCP EXAM ($40) 1130-1200 Lunch (Free for judges/stewards otherwise $5) 1200-1400 2nd round judging 1400-2000 Pub Crawl/Microbrew Tasting/ Jambalaya Feast 2200-2400 Awards Ceremony Sunday, 17 October 1200 - ? World's Fastest Hombrewer Competition FRED ECKHARDT EPICUREAN EXTRAVAGANZA THis year we return to the original sin: Beer and Chocolate! MILLI-CONFERENCE Presentations by George Fix, Paul Farnsworth and Pierre Celis $12, including breakfast buffet PUB CRAWL/MICRO TASTING/JAMBALAYA FEAST The Pub Crawl will wend its way to the Orange Show, where the Micro Tasting will be held. The Crescent City Homebrewers are supplying loads of the most excellent jambalya, and we'll have as many Micro/Craft brewed beers as we can scrounge. The pub crawl is $14, including the micro tasting. The micro tasting and food is $3 if you don't crawl. We are looking for beer for the micro tasting, so if you're coming and feel up to it, bring a couple of sixes of your favorite local brew. Also, if you know a brewer personally, have them contact us if they feel like getting their product "exposed" to the Houston Market. WORLD'S FASTEST HOMBREWER Come to Malibu Grand Prix and try to wrest the title from Chuck Cox! - -------------------------------------------------------- . _ . _____________ |\_|/__/| / \ / / \/ \ \ / Happy! Happy! \ /__|O||O|__ \ \ Joy! Joy! / |/_ \_/\_/ _\ | \ ___________/ | | (____) | || |/ \/\___/\__/ // _/ (_/ || | Real ||\ Sean Lamb (slamb at milp.jsc.nasa.gov) \ Beer //_/ \______// Houston, Texas, USofA, Earth, Sol __|| __|| (____(____) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 7:30:56 -0400 (EDT) From: P_LABRIE at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Paul LaBrie) Subject: re: clean glasses and head retention RE: Chris' question (and subsequent replies) about head retention, dish- washing detergents, etc., an old trick to make a "beer clean glass" (i.e to cut through an existing "film") was to wet the glass then rub good old fashioned table salt around the inside of the glass. Typically you can only reach the upper 1/3 of the glass with your fingers but this seems to do the trick. When you've finished with this "salt scrub", be sure to give the glass a THOROUGH rinsing with plenty of water before pouring your beer. I worked for several years for a beer distributor who was a zealot about presenting his product in a "beer clean glass". As I recall, he used to give out free bags of trisodium phosphate to his draft customers so that they might better clean their glassware. "If the bubbles stick to the side, the glass ain't clean." - paul - Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Jul 93 08:24:11 EDT From: Robin Garr <76702.764 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: bos93.txt These are the top prizes awarded at Thursday night's banquet at the American Homebrewers Association convention. First, second and third prizes in all homebrewing categories follow as a separate post. The information in these messages is unofficial, reported during live coverage of the events on the CompuServe Beer Forum by Sysop Robin Garr. HOMEBREW CLUB HIGH-POINT AWARD Sonoma Beerocrats, Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, Calif. SAKEMAKER OF THE YEAR Jim Long, Sacramento, Calif. CIDERMAKER OF THE YEAR Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass. MEADMAKER OF THE YEAR Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask. THE NINKASI AWARD Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask. HOMEBREWER OF THE YEAR Paddy Giffin, Cotati, Calif. Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Jul 93 08:24:29 EDT From: Robin Garr <76702.764 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: aha93.txt These are the winners of the 1993 annual American Homebrewers Association competition, announced Thursday, July 29, 1993, at the final banquet of the AHA convention in Portland, Oregon. BARLEY WINE (Sponsor, EDME Ltd.): Third: Bill Clawson, Diamond Springs, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn. Second: Chuck Boyce, Cincinnati, Bloatarian Brewing League. First: Ray Call, Stockton, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats. BELGIUM-STYLE SPECIALTY (Sponsor, Manneken-Brussel Imports): Third: Phil Markowski, Norwalk, Conn., Underground Brewers of Connecticut. Second: Tony Babinec, Flossmoor, Ill., Chicago Beer Society. First: Brian Bliss, Dallas, North Texas Homebrewers Assn. BROWN ALES (Sponsor, Premier Malt Products): Third: John M. Roberts, Jamaica Plain, Mass., American Brown. Second: Jim Dilldine, Craig, Colo., American Brown. First: Douglas Brown, Redondo Beach, Calif., Maltose Falcons Homebrewing Society, English Mild. ENGLISH STYLE PALE ALE (Sponsor, Wynkoop Brewing Co.): Third: Matt Hussey and Casey Lott, Portland, Ore., India Pale Ale. Second: Russell Levitt, Bloomington, Ind., Classic English Pale Ale. First: Kelly Dunham, Pacifica, Calif., The Brewbirds of Hoppiness, India Pale Ale. AMERICAN STYLE ALE (Sponsor, Northwestern Extract): Third: Daniel R. Bell, Grass Valley, Calif., Foothill Fermenters, American Pale Ale. Second: Mike and Dina Kraft, Austin, Texas, Zymurgic Enthusiasts of Austin, American Pale Ale. First: Jack H. Denny, Lenexa, Kan., Kansas City Beer Meisters, American Wheat. ENGLISH BITTER (Sponsor, The Brewery): Third: Steve Klover, Thornton, Colo., Hop Barley & The Alers, English Special. Second: Byron Burch, Santa Rosa, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, English Extra Special. First: Donna Lynn and Brian F. Johnson, Palo Alto, Calif., San Andreas Malts, English Special. SCOTTISH ALE (Sponsor, Something's Brewing): Third: Jay Ankeney, Manhattan Beach, Calif., Maltose Falcons Homebrewing Society, Scottish Light. Second: Ted Andersen, Petaluma, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Scottish Heavy. First: James E. Edgins, Highlands Ranch, Colo., Hop Barley & The Alers, Scottish Heavy. PORTER (Sponsor, The Cellar): Third: Joel Rosen and Nancy Simon, Hermosa Beach, Calif., The Strand Brewers Club, Robust Porter. Second: Scott Keohane, Carlisle, Mass., The Boston Wort Processors, Robust Porter. First: Marvin Crippen, Seattle, Robust Porter. ENGLISH AND SCOTTISH STRONG ALE (Sponsor, Wine and Hop Shop): Third: Rick Garvin, Arlington, Va., Brewers United for Real Potables (BURP), English Old Ale/Strong Ale. Second: Mike Schaefer, Wauwatosa, Wis., Brewtown Brewmasters, English Old Ale/Strong Ale. First: Ray Call, Stockton, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Strong "Scotch" Ale. STOUT (Sponsor, Alternative Garden Supply): Third: Mike Rego, Amherst, N.H., Brew Free or Die Club, Foreign Style. Second: Chris Stamp, Rock Stream, N.Y., Ithaca Brewers Union, Sweet Stout. First: David and Melinda Brockington, Seattle, Foreign Style. BOCK (Sponsor, Yakima Valley Hop Growers): Third: Alan Barnes, Nashville, Tenn, Mashville Brews, Helles (Light) Bock. Second: Bob Tullmann, Pine Mountain, Calif., Doppelbock. First: Ron Kribbs and Rick Skillman, Naples, Fla., Eisbock. BAVARIAN DARK (Sponsor, Crosby and Baker): Third: Dennis Kinvig, Toronto, Ont., Canadian Association for Better Ale and Lager (CABAL), Munich Dunkel. Second: Tom Altenbach, Tracy, Calif., Draught Board Home Brew Club, Schwarzbier. First: Jay Hersh, Medford, Mass., The Boston Wort Processors, Munich Dunkel. DORTMUND/EXPORT (Sponsor, Briess Malting Co.) Third: Thomas J. O'Connor III, Rockport, Me., Maine Ale & Lager Tasters (MALT). Second: Rob Brunner, Windsor, Colo., Mash Tongues. First: Robert Henke, Whitefish Bay, Wis. MUNICH HELLES (Sponsor, L.D. Carlson Co. [Formally Wines Inc.]): Third: Richard Kowalski, Wantagh, N.Y., Paumanok United Brewers (PUB). Second: Keith Weerts, Windsor, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats. First: Donald J. Weaver, New Freedom, Pa., Libation Association. CLASSIC PILSNER (Sponsor, California Concentrates): Third: Chris Moes, Woodside, Calif., German. Second: Ron Page, Middletown, Conn., The Boston Wort Processors, German. First: Steve and Tina Daniel, League City, Texas, Bay Area Mashers (BAM), German. AMERICAN LAGER (Sponsor, Coors Brewing Co.): Third: Charles P. Hessom, Redwood Valley, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, American Standard. Second: Steve & Tina Daniel, League City, Texas, Bay Area Mashers (BAM), American Dark. First: Gene Muller, Westmont, N.J., HOPS, Cream Ale/Lager. VIENNA OKTOBERFEST/MARZEN (Sponsor, F.H. Steinbart Co.) Third: Ron Page, Middletown, Conn., The Boston Wort Processors, Marzen/ Oktoberfest. Second: John M. Roberts, Jamaica Plain, Mass., Marzen/Oktoberfest. First: John E. Janowiak, Adelphi, Md., Marzen/Oktoberfest. GERMAN-STYLE ALE (Sponsor, The Beverage People): Third: Keith Weerts, Windsor, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Dusseldorf-style Altbier. Second: Bruce Cornell, Baton Rouge, La., Redstick Brewmasters, Kolsch. First: Bill Yearous, Galt, Calif., Brew Angels, Dusseldorf-style Altbier. FRUIT BEER (Sponsor, The Purple Foot): Third: Kelly Mower and Brent Stromness, Salt Lake City, Zion Zymurgists Hops (ZZ HOPS) Club. Second: Vern Wolff, Esparto, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn. First: Gene Muller, Westmont, N.J., HOPS Club. HERB BEER (Sponsor, Marin Brewing Co.): Third: Michael Millerick, Fairfield, Conn. Second: Mike Schaefer, Wauwatosa, Wis., Brewtown Brewmsters Club. First: Richard Mansfield and Mike Smith, San Jose, Calif., Washoe Zephyr Zymurgists Club. SPECIALTY BEER (Sponsor, Beer and Wine Hobby): Third: Ronald B. Moucka, Fort Collins, Colo., Mash Tongues Club. Second: Frank F. Miller, Libertyville, Ill. First: Ron Page, Middletown, Conn., The Boston Wort Processors. SMOKED (Sponsor, Jim's Homebrew Supply): Third: George Mika, Warrenton, Va., Brewers United for Real Potables (BURP). Second: Mike Fertsch and David Koresh (!?), Woburn, Mass., The Boston Wort Processors, Bamberg-style Rauchbier. First: Paddy Giffen, Cotati, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats. CALIFORNIA COMMON BEER (Sponsor: Anchor Brewing Co.) Third: Strom C. Thacker, Gainesville, Ga. Second: Robbie Enrico, Greensburg, Pa., Three Rivers Alliance of Serious Homebrewers (TRASH). First: Michael Dennis Bell, Pleasant Hill, Calif. WHEAT BEER - ALE (Sponsor: American Homebrewrs Association): Third: Bruce A. Brandt, Casnovia, Mich., Prime Time Brewers, Berliner Weisse. Second: Steve Dempsey, Fort Collins, Colo., Hop Barley & The Alers Club, German-style. First: Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask. TRADITIONAL MEAD (Sponsor, Havill's Mazer Mead Co.): Third: Paddy Giffen, Cotati, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Still Mead. Second: Byron Burch, Santa Rosa, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Sparkling Mead. First: Walter Dobrowney, Saskatoon, Sask., Still Mead. MELOMEL, CYSER, PYMENT (Sponsor, National Honey Board): Third: Peter Knight, St. Helena, Calif., Sonoma Beerocrats, Still. Second: Bob Gorman, Waltham, Mass., The Boston Wort Processors. First: Gordon Olson, Los Alamos, N.M., Los Alamos Hill Hoppers. CIDER (Sponsor, Lyon's Brewery of Dublin): Third: Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass., Still. Second: Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass.. Sparkling. First: Gabriel Ostriker, Somerville, Mass., Specialty Cider. SAKE (Sponsor, Hakusan Sake): Third: Fred Eckhardt, Portland, Ore., Oregon Brew Crew. Second: Jim Long, Sacramento, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn., Sparkling. First: Jim Long, Sacramento, Calif., Gold Country Brewers Assn. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 11:11:08 -0300 From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH at ac.dal.ca> Subject: hot water / starting starters >I dont know if a on demand hot water heater would be capable of providing >26 gallons of 180F water in a 30 minute time frame. This is my >requirement. Perhaps what you need is a flow-through water heater. That way it heats the water to the desired temp as it passes through the pipe, no worrying (not that homebrewers worry) about the time to heat up 40 gallons of water. ************************** Recently I made some starters the quick and dirty way, since I realized Friday morning I hadn't started the yeast for Saturday's brewing session. I scrapped the slant into a 640 mL Beck's bottle, added 500 mL sterile wort, capped it, SHOOK VIGOROUSLY for 5 minutes, removed the cap and put on an airlock. The satrter was cloudy with yeast by Saturday Night pitching time, and the kraeusen was crawling out the airlock (oops!) Sunday morning. Of course, this was a fairly fresh slant. One of my older slants took two days to get to that point. ____________ Ed Hitchcock/Dept of Anatomy & Neurobiology/Dalhousie University/Halifax NS ech at ac.dal.ca +-----------------------------------------+ | Never trust a statement that begins: | | "I'm not racist, but..." | +-----------------------------------------+ Diversity in all things. Especially beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 09:16:01 CST From: "William A Kitch" <kitchwa at bongo.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: Overnight mashing In HBD #1193 Jack Schmidling mentions doing the mash-in the night before the rest of the mash. According to Jack, the overnight mash-in "had far more malty flavor and seemed richer and fuller in body" than the same recipe using a normal mash-in. Very interesting experience! I could certainly go for mashing-in the night before. Have others tried this? With what sucess? Jack, what temperature do you mash in at and how does it change overnight? Sante' WAK Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 8:34:43 MDT From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: My pale ale recipe I have to report errors in the pale ale recipe I posted yesterday, if anyone is paying attention. The ingredient list showed 2 oz of Cascade pellets; only 1 oz was used. Also, the hopping schedule showed 0.5 oz of dry hops (Cascade leaf hops) and it should have shown 0.6 oz. Sorry for the errata but, hey, I'm an amateur! Cheers, norm Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 11:02:46 -0500 From: tmgierma at raphael.acpub.duke.edu (Todd Gierman) Subject: yeast culture miscellany I posted some ideas for yeast culturing in HBD #1192. For some of the questions pertaining to yeast culture in #1193, I refer you to those notes. I'll add a few more comments here. But, first the disclaimer. I am not a yeast expert; outside of homebrewing I do not work with yeast. However, I do a fair amount of culturing of E. coli and animal cells, I have a reasonable level of knowledge concerning the biochemistry and molecular biology of yeasts, and I have access to a number of technical writings concerning yeast physiology and growth. The methods that I have described are idealized. I realize that they are not always suitable to the setup of most homebrewers. I urge anyone reading them to take them as guidelines that can be adapted to one's own system - deviation is the accepted norm. >From: tpm at wdl.loral.com (Tim P McNerney) >Subject: Re: innoculating a starter from a petri dish > >My biggest problem with innocualting a starter from a petri dish is that >I don't want to go through 5 different sized, sanitized starters to build >up enough yeast. I tried innoculating a few ml of wort in a 1 liter flask, >but did not see the activity I was used to with 10 ml testtubes. I got >the testtubes with presterilized wort from the Yeast Kit Culture Company >(along with 50 ml testtubes) and these worked great. So my questions are: > >1. Did the fact the the wort in the flask was so shallow cause problems with >yeast growth or just with the visible effects? Probably not, to the first part. Who knows for sure, to the second. >2. Since I only tried this once, did I just mess up this one innoculation? Possibly. Allow your flamed loop to cool before picking (stab it into a clear area of the agar - it should sizzle). A hot loop may kill your colony on the spot. For a few mls in a liter, you're talking a long time before you will even begin to see activity (see my previous posting). Presumably, you successfully picked a colony, as evidenced by the activity seen in the "few ml" starter starter. >3. How do other people build up a healthy sized started with spending half >their life preparing storage vessels? Again, my previous posting explains how I do it under ideal conditions. It really isn't a matter of five sterile containers, more like two or three. Here's a suggestion: start with 2 ml in your sterile tube, add 8 ml the next day to make 10 ml (assuming your tube holds 12-15 ml), the next day, add 50-100 ml to a thoroughly sanitized, if not sterile, mason jar or juice jar (glass) (avoid detergents), pitch the 10 ml into the 50-100, bring your starter up to volume with successive additions over the next two days. At each stage you really want to see vigorous growth before increasing the volume. A healthy, actively growing culture is the best way to minimize bacterial growth. If you add a little bit of yeast to a large volume, you run the risk of pitching a highly contaminated culture. Some bacterial growth (acetobacter for one) may actually inhibit the growth of yeast. FYI: During exponential (or log phase) growth, yeast double every 90 minutes at 30 degree C with vigorous and constant aeration in specialized media - this does not make for good beer, however. Log phase can be divided into three stages based on the rate of cell division (or the proportion of budded cells within a culture): early log phase (cell-density < 1 x 10 (E7) cells/ml), mid-log phase (1-5 x 10 (E7) cells/ml), and late-log phase (5 x 10 (E7)-2 x 10 (E8) cells/ml. At 2 x 10 (E8) yeast cultures are considered saturated and the cell enter stationary phase. So you can see, if you dilute your culture well below 1 x 10 (E7) cells/ml, you may lose your log phase growth. Thus, even a ten-fold dilution may be detrimental to your growth rate. Pitching 500 ml of starter into 18.9 liters (5 gallons) constitutes a 38-fold dilution. A saturated culture at 500 ml may get you to early-log phase. BTW, bacteria may have a doubling time 1/3 that of yeast. >From: Mark A Fryling <mfryling at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> >Subject: culturing Belgian yeast >The question I'd like to pose, is does anyone know if the yeast in the >Hoegaarden samples and the Abt 12 is fit to culture and brew with? I know >that >the Chimay is good stuff, and I already learned (from a recent posting) that >the Duvel yeast is not. Ditto for Orval. The others were pasteurized and >filtered. TIA I have similar questions myself. I can tell you that I have a wit going using a Hoegaarden culture. It has been fermenting quite vigorously for 4 days now. The fermentation is actually giving off some very pleasant odors. I've seen recipes that have used Hoegaarden yeast, so I assume that it is okay. I know nothing of Abt 12. Chimay may be good, but I know of one person who had a complete failure with it, and his skills are quite esteemed in our local HB club. Although the Duvel may be a conditioning yeast it may not be complete junk. Watch out for bacteria that may be lurking in the bottle dregs. I have tried culturing the Duvel yeast. I have succeded in only culturing the bugs instead, which may be lactobacillus. I know that the live yeast was present, but the bugs seem to have overgrown the culture. Orval is not necessarily junk either. Michael Jackson writes that Orval does two fermentations with single-cell cultures and conditions with a 5-strain culture. I don't know, but what do you think the chances are that the yeast in the single cell culture is present among the 5 strains during conditioning? I'd guess it is there. You could probably isolate it, but is it worth the trouble? Probably not. However, it would be interesting to use the 5-strain culture to condition that trappist ale that you might attempt someday. One thing to remember is that many of the Belgian ales require a variety of yeast strains to yield the final product. If you plate them out, be sure to pick many colonies for your stock culture. Todd M. Gierman Department of Microbiology Duke University Medical Center Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Jul 1993 22:50:21 -0600 From: "Manning, Martin P" <manning#m#_martin_p at mcst.ae.ge.com> Subject: Extract Efficency & Duvel Yeast My personal preference is to measure the extract efficiency at the start of the boil. It is, as someone said, the efficiency of the mashing and lautering processes that are of the most interest. At this point, the character of the wort is set, and you have recovered all of the sugars you are going to get. A point which no one has brought up is that if you are using any kettle adjuncts (honey, sugars, etc.), you definitely want to do the calculation before you add them. To get a good number, you must be very careful in the measurements taken, and adjust the measured volume as well as the SG to your reference temperature. I am amazed at the number of people who fail to include this correction. At 100 C, it will swing the apparent extract yield by 4%. To measure the (hot) volume in my half-barrel kettle, I use a stainless ruler to get the distance from the edge of the 12-in hole in the top to the surface of the liquid - to the nearest mm. I made a calibration curve which I then refer to get the volume, which should be within 0.12 liter or so. It goes without saying that an accurate hydrometer is needed as well. I prefer the type with an integral thermometer and correction read-out. As far as the correction for temperature goes, the best strategy is to cool the sample to the reference temperature, or as close as is possible. The correction is indeed dependent upon the wort gravity as well as its temperature, but the closer you are to the reference, the smaller the error in ignoring it. ****************** Moortgat's Duvel is fermented with two strains of yeast, in separate un-equal volumes. One of these two strains is used for the bottle conditioning, after the yeast from the primary is filtered out. These details are from Jackson, "The Great Beers of Belgium". I have a Duvel culture which was obtained from a bottle a couple of years ago, shortly after it appeared in the local market. Interestingly, the bottles out there now seem to be DOA, as several recent attempts have yielded nothing. A fresh one from Belgium could be a different story. The culture I have makes wonderful beer, though. It has a distinctive Duvel flavor profile, and seems to build a livelier head than most others in my experience. Two or three times a year, when I regenerate my collection of twenty or so yeasts in 6-ml tubes of pale, un-hopped wort, I always observe these same characteristics. Martin Manning Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 11:40:15 EDT From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Diacetyl rests In the last digest: <Mark Fryling <BTW, just as a comment, the Gordons Highlander Scotch Ale was absolutely <fantastic. This has been my experience too. While I have yet to actually visit Scotland, I have drank scottish ales and the ones in Belgium are always a joy. I belive the special Belgium color malts make all of the difference. <From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) <>an authentic contential lager, ferment at 48-51F for 1 week, drop temp ^^^^ >2F per day until it is 42F. Rest here 2-4 days (diacetyl rest) <I'm a little confused here. I don't ferment lagers warm, 48F-50F, and I've always used the Noonan method of raising the temperature for the diacetyl rest (~55F for 2 days), with good results. Can you clarify this point, Jim? I have received a bit of mail on this topic so it seems I have hit a nerve on lagering. The final test is in the finished product, and whether any detectable amounts of diacetyl survive. The most important factor on this is yeast strain selection. G. Fix in the latest issue of Brewing Techniques lists two tables relating the correlation between production and reduction of diacetyl levels and yeast strains over time. Two of the strains, including the ever popular weihenstephan 34/70 produce much lower levels of diacetyl than a third strain. In all of the cases, each yeast is able to reduce the level of diacetyl but the one that produced a lot initially was not able to reduce the levels very low. If one is using a strain that is a big diacetyl producer, then it would seem that a higher temp diacetyl rest is in order to acclerate the yeasts ability to metabolize and break down the diacetyl into the two less bothersome constituants, see Fix's article. It is my opinion that if a strain does not produce much diacetyl, like 34/70, and primary ferementation is carried out at 48F, then there is no need to raise the temp to further reduce the levels. Raising the temp to 55F is not that radical. Raising it higher is done for rapid fermentation & lagering ala Dr. Narziss. This is a natural and easy technique where at the end of primary at 48F, the attemperater is turned off, allowing the temp to slowely rise into the upper 50s. After the rest, the lager period is reduced to 2- 3 weeks time. If I remember the Fix article, not much reduction of diacetyl occurs under 40F, so it would seem that this is a lower limit. I suggest leaving out the 55 stage on a batch using 34/70 and substitute the brief rest at 42-44F for 2-3 days, and see if anything changes. Whatever is easier for you and works is what counts. Jim Busch DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 12:21:06 -0400 From: parsons1 at husc.harvard.edu Subject: Supply Stores in Berkeley/Oakland CA Area Greetings, all, Next week I will be moving from Cambridge (and the wonderful "Modern Brewer" supply store) to Berkeley CA. Does anyone know of any good stores in the area with a decent selection of grains and fresh hops? Things in San Francisco and Palo Alto (home of Pete's Wicked) would be accessible to, so far as anything in CA is accessible from anywhere else. Thanks in advance, Jed parsons1 at husc8.harvard.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 10:10:31 PDT From: rcristad at weber.ucsd.edu (Riccardo Cristadoro) Subject: please cancel my subscription please cancel my subscription Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 09:57:08 -0400 From: Philip J Difalco <sxupjd at anubis.fnma.COM> Subject: Barreling Beer Could those of you who have barreled their beer, in wooden casks, please e-mail me (or publish) your advice/experiences. Thanks. - --- email: sxupjd at fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay) Philip DiFalco, Senior SomethingOrOther, Advanced Technology FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington, DC 22016 (202)752-2812 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1993 10:51:42 -0700 From: paul at rational.com (Paul Jasper) Subject: Sour Beer (was Re: Dallas beer/Cellis) On 29 Jul, 10:05, Jeff Benjamin wrote: > Subject: Re: Dallas beer/Cellis > > > Celis Grand Cru, an interesting attempt at a Belgian style. It's too light > > in color and body to be a true Grand Cru, but they really have the flavor > > down. How do they do this? Anyone know? It tastes like a true lambic. > > Ahem... the Grand Cru is good as well, but I don't think it bears much > relationship to a true lambic. Well, yes... > I vaguely remember hearing someone say > that Pierre Celis does add some sort of souring bug (a Pediococcus, > perhaps?) to both the White and the Grand Cru, but one bug does not a > lambic make. Hmmm, really? I've yet to try the Grand Cru - I've been happy enough with the White, now I've found a regular supply :^). I'll have to pick some up this weekend when I re-stock. > Which leads me to my last topic... > > A close friend, and business associate is going to Brussels for a week, and > > asks what beers to bring back for me? If you could select three or four, > > what would they be? > > A very tough call. If you like the sour stuff, I recommend either the > Cantillon or Boon lambics. If you *really* like sour beer, get him to bring back some Rodenbach. The regular Rodenbach is delicious, with a powerful fruity sourness. They also have a Grand Cru if you can stand it... I found some Rodenbach at Liquor Barn in San Francisco about 2 years ago, but haven't seen it anywhere since. Anyone ever tried to make it? The sourness comes from aging in oak, and young and old agings are blended. The Grand Cru is just the "old" beer that has been aged for up to two years! >-- End of excerpt from Jeff Benjamin - -- - -- Paul Jasper - -- RATIONAL - -- Object-Oriented Products - -- Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Jul 93 12:54 CST From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Subject: Chili VS Jalapeno I am ready to harvest a few quarts of chilis and jalapenos from my garden. I've seen a few recipes for jalapeno or serrano peppers in beer, but haven't seen any for chilis. I prefer the taste of chilis (to jalapenos) in my cooking. My question is: How do jalapenos and chilis compare for flavor and burn in beers? Is there any noticable difference between them when they've been roasted and tossed into the secondary? Also, can chilis be safely substituted for Jalapenos in a recipe without fear of burning the lips off of one's face? Ed Wolfe WOLFE at ACT-12-PO.ACT.ORG Iowa City, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 13:58:47 EDT From: lyons%adc3 at swlvx2.msd.ray.com Subject: Traditional Porter vs East Coast Porter? In HBD #1193 Jim provides us with information on the 10th Annual Dixie Cup Homebrew Competition. Thanks Jim, but could you please describe the differences between a Traditional Porter and an East Coast Porter. If you could name some commericial examples I could experiment with my taste buds. Thanks! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 16:18:14 EST From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at michaelangelo.helios.nd.edu> Subject: Efficiency question James DiPalma mentions that his efficiency seems higher pre boil than postboil. I am not going to deny the possibility that precipitated break material could account for the difference, but is it also possible that the temperature of the wort might be a factor in the volume estimation? If you eyeball the volume of warm post sparge preboil wort it is going to higher than at postchill temperature by quite a bit. The sg at 80C is .971, at 90 .965, and at 100 .958. At 20 C it is 998. (figures actually kg/m3/1000). I usually measure both - but the initial sg is to see how much to boil off, I I don't have volumes calibrated well anyway. Also, why is everyone so concerned about Zima? It isn't beer and doesn't pretend to be. It is aimed at the wine cooler-prepackaged mixed drink crowd. A frined brought me back a Canadian drink called Durango that was a fruit flavored malt beverage a few years ago, so Zima isn't the first. It has a similar relationshiop to beer as a single malt Scotch - an alcoholic drink made of malt, and noone complains about Scotch. Give it a break! If you have to complain about Coor's use a better reason - like Union relationships, Environmental damage, false advirtising claims, or the fascist belief of the founder. Zima is surely one of their venial sins, and it isn't as bad as Miller Clear, whcih does pretend to be a beer. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 93 18:16:18 EDT From: dschultz at aol.com Subject: West Coast Brewery addresses Stephen Brent Peters asked in HBD 1193 about a publication with mailing addresses for West Coast Breweries. I have a book titled "Good Beer Guide/Breweries and Pubs of the Pacific Northwest" written by Vince Cottone and published by Homestead Book Co. of Seattle that fits the bill. My copy is (unfortunately) dated 1986, and I don't know if there is an updated edition available. Email me if interested. Dale Schultz Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1194, 08/02/93