HOMEBREW Digest #1242 Thu 07 October 1993

Digest #1241 Digest #1243

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Montreal brewpubs/watering holes info wanted. (Gerald_Wirtz)
  Lambic Beers and U.S. Microbreweries (Matthew Evans)
  Fast cooling of high gravity boils. (lyons)
  RE: crush off/hop util/S. Adams (Jim Busch)
  chilling extract brew (David Atkins)
  Hop Utilization and Gravity (Jim Liddil)
  SPGRAV: program to perform hydrometer corrections at any base (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Re: SPGRAV: program to perform hydrometer corrections at any base (Kurt Swanson)
  Hop substitutions, cheap carboys (Domenick Venezia)
  Flavor and aroma hops (Scott Stihler (USGS analyst))
  Comments on Molasses ("John C. Post")
  Re: Barleywine ferment/Dryhopping (Jeff Frane)
  First all grain: the procedure (Ed Oriordan)
  Re: Krush-Off (Bill Slack)
  Maple syrup/sap (rick621)
  Milling about (korz)
  NO POPCORN, PLEASE! ("Marlene Spears")
  Mash out necessary? (Domenick Venezia)
  Krush Off Kwestion (Patrick Sobalvarro)
  Cut rate glassware (Aaron Morris)
  Pumpkin Ale Recipe ("Anthony Johnston")
  Re: Chilling Wort ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
  Victorian Ales (Chris McDermott)
  spiced beer ("JSDAWS1 at PROFSSR")
  Rager Number Error (Mark Garetz)
  Hops (what else?) (Mark Garetz)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 7:56 EDT From: Gerald_Wirtz at vos.stratus.com Subject: Montreal brewpubs/watering holes info wanted. I'll be heading to Montreal this weekend and would appreciate any information on and good brewpubs/watering holes in the area. Direct replies appreciated. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 09:23:03 -0400 From: Daniel McMahon <dmcmahon at blanche.acq.osd.mil> From: dmcmahon Full-Name: Daniel McMahon at pr Subject: 5 Ltr Mini Kegs To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com I'm looking for some feedback on the pros and cons of using 5 liter "mini kegs", as opposed to bottling. I can get them empty for ~$5 at my local homebrew supply store (or buy them full of Dinkelacker or Grolsch and drink that first) and buy a CO2 tap for ~$35 to use with them. Anyone have any good/bad experiences with these mini kegs? I intend some day to step up to 5 gallon Cornelius kegs, but currently: (1) I don't have another refrigerator to dedicate to brewing and (2) The total costs for fridge, CO2 tank and connections, and kegs are prohibitive. Is this interim step worthwhile? It seems to be convenient by saving time and space at minimal initial cost. Any and all input is appreciated! Dan McMahon Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1993 09:30:54 EDT From: Matthew Evans <matt at cadif.cornell.edu> Subject: Lambic Beers and U.S. Microbreweries I've got a couple questions, hopefully someone out there knows the answer to these questions: 1) Is there any U.S. brewery producing a true lambic beer (besides the Cranberry Lambic from the Boston Brewing Co)? If not, why not? 2) I've read before that the various yeasts and bacteria needed for lambic beers are available in the US, but where is a good commercial source (or free source) of these microrganisms? 3) Has anyone tried making a homebrewed lambic in small batches. If you have I would really like to talk to you about the process, as Kriek Lambic is my favorite beer and I would like to duplicate the sour bite found only in lambic beers. 4) Are there any good publications about microbreweries? Particularly I'm interested in getting some start up information for an Entrepreneurial Business class at school. 5) Finally, in this long list of questions, does anyone have the number for the Celis brewery in Texas that makes Belgian style beers? Thanks for your help in advance. Please send responses to me at mce1 at cornell.edu. Thanks and happy brewing!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 10:01:36 EDT From: lyons%adc1 at swlvx2.msd.ray.com Subject: Fast cooling of high gravity boils. (John Pavao writes in HBD#1239:) >> (snip) >> I am wondering if I would be better or worse off if I chilled the >> concentrated wort before adding it to the cold water in the carboy. (Carl Howes writes in HBD#1241:) >I would say chill your concentrate first since it will be easier to do. >For my first several batches I added the hot partial wort to the cold >water in the fermenter a la Papazian, but in view of the recent warnings >about HSA I went for chilling the partial boil (in my case about 2 >gallons) to pitching temperature before adding it to the carboy for my >latest batch. This took placing my kettle in a sink full of cold water >and changing the water three times over 45 minutes. On adding hot >concentrate it took seven hours for the batch to cool to pitching temp on >its own, and a kitchen sink full of cold water had no noticable effect. >An immersion chiller would likely be more effective, but I have not yet >made one. BTW, I tried sending this by private email but it bounced. I'm one of those who believe it is important to cool the wort ASAP after boiling is complete (limit DMS). Keeping this in mind, I add two large blocks of ice. This quickly brings the temperature down for pitching the yeast (yes, ice at 32F will provide more cooling than water at 32F). If you believe adding tap water does not create a problem, then ice blocks made of tap water will not cause a problem and will cool even faster. The important thing in making the ice blocks is not to introduce any wild yeasts. In other words, the water which is to become ice should be placed in a previously sanitized container which can be completely CLOSED from the environment (the freezer is teeming with nasty guys that like to spoil beer). I use one gallon plastic milk containers and fill them half way (just below the handle). They are easily cut with a knife and the ice block extracted. If you are one of those concerned with using tap water, then pre-boil the water first (and remember, boiled water will freeze faster than unboiled water ... less O2). I think the addition of ice blocks is a better technique than using an immersion chiller when doing high gravity boils (which are diluted to final volume after the boil). The immersion chiller is the correct choice for full volume boils, since you do not want to dilute the wort of a full volume boil. Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 10:41:32 -0500 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: RE: crush off/hop util/S. Adams I read with interest the ongoing comparisons between mills. I am more interested in the comparisons of extract efficiency from the test brews. I know that my extract went down when I switched from pre ground Briess to corona ground, then the extract returned to the preground equivelent with the adjustable MaltMill. Any results from the test, or were they all the same in the end?? *************** With respect to Mark's comments on hop utilization and the lack of professional journels reports on the subject, I believe it is covered in Malting & Brewing Science, by Hough et al (not sure as I dont own this excellent set) but it is certainly covered in the German literature by Dr. Narziss, of the Weihenstephan institute, in Freising. At any rate, the correlation between high OG and hop utilization is well known and accepted by the pro brewers I hang out with. *************** A while back I posted a bit about Mr. Kochs Jamaica Plains brewery but had not actually been there. I was there the Saturday before last, and the Sudhaus is indeed impressive, dual 15 BBl decoction kettles, each with a grain feed, and water spray. The guides were a bit annoying, especially with respect to comments like "everyone knows no good hops are grown in the US" . I just couldnt let this one pass, so I pointed out that if one sampled a Petes Wicked Lager, the US grown Liberty hops could be compared to the German equivelent. Needless to say, they were not pleased to hear the words "Petes.." spoken in the hallowed grounds of Sam Adams......:-) Good brewing, Jim Busch DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 93 09:46 CDT From: David Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: chilling extract brew I too do that extract brew. Here's how I chill. My method involves a carboy primary--5, 6.5 or 7 gal size. My primary is a 7 gal carboy...I don't know if I'll ever use a bucket again. I chill the boil pot in a sink of cold water for a few minutes...ice and those refreezable faux-ice packets work well in the bath. Placing about 1.5 gals of cold water into the carboy, I funnel my extract into the container then fill up to 5 gals with a heady stream of cold water. I find that the heady stream 1) aid aeration and 2) cools wort not just by heat exchange with the water but with heat exchange with the air...get's real frothy. Once filled, I bung the carboy shut and for 10 - 20 minutes I prop carboy on edge of sink and gentle wash the carboy with cold water. If you don't have one of those built in sink spray nozzles (like me) use those cheap faucet-shower attachment hoses you can find at a drug or discount store (a 2-3 feet length of rubber hose with an exceedingly simple adapter on one end and a shower head on the other; the shower head is removeable) I use the hose in cleaning as well as wort chilling and carboy filling--remember to sanitize though. While chilling the carboy, rotating it slightly from time to time, I take the opportunity to shake the container, further aerating the wort. From the start of chill to the yeast pitch takes 20-30 minutes. If you would like info on finding 6-7 gals carboys let me know. I do business with a good supplier. They don't know me, just my credit card number (read as disclaimer). Take care, David Atkins UW-Madison-Where every morning, leaving the house is its own cold break atkins at macc.wisc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 7:51:33 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <JLIDDIL at AZCC.Arizona.EDU> Subject: Hop Utilization and Gravity % % Date: Mon, 4 Oct 93 21:59:59 PDT % From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> % Subject: Two Hop Topics % % There has been a bit of discussion here lately about two hop % topics: gravity vs. utilization and dry hop bitterness. % % Gravity vs. Utilization: % % In the research for my book, I have tried to verify the common % homebrew wisdom that high gravity *boils* make a difference in % the hop utilization by attempting to find references in the % commercial brewing literature. I have not been able to find *any* % mention that wort *boil* gravity makes any difference in hop % utilization. The gravity at the start of *fermentation* does make % a difference, meaning that low gravity beers get better utilization % than high gravity beers. Note that this is a fermentation effect, % not a boil gravity effect, and varies depending on the fermentation % technique. Anyway, the *volume* of the boil *will* make a % difference, which may explain Norm's comments about needing less % hops when switching to all grain (full volume) boils. I suggest you get a copy of Malting and Brewing Science by JS Hough and read the hop chapter and the wort boiling chapters. Then I think you will see that indeed wort gravity does affect hop utilization. % % I asked Gail Nickerson this question ("Does boil gravity affect % utilization?") and she said (paraphrasing), "No. Not unless you % were boiling a syrup or something of that consistency. And if it % did, it would be known because the big boys are all using high % gravity brewing techniques these days." % Can she provide a reasearch reference for this statement? As we say in rearch land "If it isn't published it didn't happen" % To summarize, then, it appears that low boil volume (regardless % of the SG) gives less utilization, but *boil* gravity has no effect. Wrong! % But as the gravity of the *fermenting* wort increases, utilization % decreases - the amount depends on your fermenting methods. What does volume have to do with it? If alpha acids are in to high a concentration then utilization goes down due to solubility issues. But rather than quote chapter and verse from M and B Science I suggest you read it and then repost. % Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 10:58:22 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: SPGRAV: program to perform hydrometer corrections at any base This polynomial is much better than the previous one that was posted. However, why not just go to the source? The CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics lists the S.G. of water at various temperatures, and these correspond exactly to the correction factors that come with the hydrometer, except they go up to 100C. Of course, there's still the complicating factor of the sugar in solution to contend with, but I haven't found any source for this. A quick experiment I did with some 1.032 sugar solution found that the table was still correct, within the resolution of my hyrometer, anyway. (Does anyone know of a source of S.G. tables for sugar solutions at various concentrations and temperatures?) For those of us who don't have a computer sitting in our brewhouse, here's a table to print out and keep handy. The correction is computed by subtracting the table value for a given temperature from the table value for 15C (which is what MY hydrometer is calibrated for) and rounded to the nearest "SG point". Temp C Correction Table SG 0 -1 999.87 5 -1 999.99 10 -1 999.73 15 0 999.13 20 1 998.23 25 2 997.07 30 3 995.67 35 5 994.06 40 7 992.24 45 9 990.25 50 11 988.07 55 13 985.73 60 16 983.24 65 19 980.59 70 21 977.81 75 24 974.89 80 27 971.83 85 30 968.65 90 34 965.34 95 37 961.92 100 41 958.38 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 16:08:41 +0100 (MET) From: Kurt Swanson <Kurt.Swanson at dna.lth.se> Subject: Re: SPGRAV: program to perform hydrometer corrections at any base Spencer W. Thomas (Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu) in this HBD writes: > > This polynomial is much better than the previous one that was posted. > However, why not just go to the source? The CRC Handbook of Chemistry > and Physics lists the S.G. of water at various temperatures, and these > correspond exactly to the correction factors that come with the > hydrometer, except they go up to 100C. How do you think I got the polynomial. SPGRAV works with very high accuracy from 00C to 1000C... The polynomial is needed instead of the table because most people make temperature measurements with greater than 50C accuracy... - -- Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Computer Science, Lunds universitet. Kurt.Swanson at dna.lth.se Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 08:16:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: Hop substitutions, cheap carboys I'm still trying to perfect that Fuller's clone and I am looking for a good substitution for British Northdown hops. I've used Cluster in the past but I'm underwelmed by the flavor contribution of Cluster. How about Styrian Goldings, or Pride of Ringwood? Both of which are available locally (Seattle). Kent Goldings? Fuggles/Willamette? How about substitutions for Challenger and Target too? Since I have never encountered Northdown, Challenger, or Target I'm working in the dark on substitutions. Can anyone recommend a good book on hop characteristics. Gardening info is wasted pages. Whoever was looking for cheap carboys in HBD #1241, St. Patrick's of Texas Brewers Supply 12922 Staton Drive Austin, TX 78727 (512) 832-9045 7 gallon carboys - $12 - shipped in styrofoam eggs (really cool) They take about a #6.5 stopper, not the #7 or #7.5 listed in St. Pat's catalog. The necks are threaded and included is the original plastic cap. The only thing "wrong" with these carboys is that you can't use those nifty orange carboy cap things with the two tubes. On the other hand trying to get a 5 gallon all-grain batch into a 5 gallon carboy can be quite a trick. Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1993 23:46:25 -0800 From: scott at fm.gi.alaska.edu (Scott Stihler (USGS analyst)) Subject: Flavor and aroma hops Greetings all, I have a question regarding hops. A friend of mine took the AHA beer judge certification test last April and one of the question he had was "What is the difference between flavor and aroma hops and give examples?" This question confuses me. I was under the impression that they are both the same. I thought the volatile hop oils which are responsible for aroma are also responsible for hop flavor. Does anybody know the correct answer to the AHA question and if I'm totally off base could ya straighten me out? Cheers, Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 08:53:14 -0800 From: "John C. Post" <jpost@ llnl.gov> Subject: Comments on Molasses A few notes on Molasses in Beer... 1) DON'T use sulphured molasses. Yuck! 2) Molasses takes a *long* time to ferment out completely, not as long as honey, but much longer than malt. 3) If you have time to wait until 2) is complete, it can be a wonderful accoutrement (College Word!) to the right recipe...I like it best with some zippy hops, such as Saazer or a nice fresh Cascade. You might try some Black Treacle for an interesting flavour kick. You can usually get it at those expensive gourmet stores (Williams-Sonoma comes to mind...) john Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 09:59:44 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Re: Barleywine ferment/Dryhopping npyle at n33.stortek.com > Subject: Barley Wine fermentation schedule? > > > Anyway, I used a 1 pint starter from Wyeast London Ale yeast, which was > possibly a bit past high krauesen, in a 5 gallon batch. The start of obvious > fermentation took over 24 hours, so I suspect I underpitched considerably. Bing, bing, bing. You win the $64,000 question. Your very slow (and possibly incomplete) fermentation is almost certainly a result of underpitching. A one-pint starter (presumably stepped up only once from the Wyeast package) is OK (tho not great) for a "normal" OG, but high gravity worts require WAY more yeast. It's not out of the question at this point for you to make a quickie batch of more normal ale, collect a couple of pints of furiously fermenting wort, and bung that into your barleywine. It worked for me years ago, although it was a little earlier in the barleywine's life. garetz at hoptech.com> > Subject: Two Hop Topics > > There has been a bit of discussion here lately about two hop > topics: gravity vs. utilization and dry hop bitterness. > > Gravity vs. Utilization: > > In the research for my book, I have tried to verify the common > homebrew wisdom that high gravity *boils* make a difference in > the hop utilization by attempting to find references in the > commercial brewing literature. I have not been able to find *any* > mention that wort *boil* gravity makes any difference in hop > utilization. As a datapoint, your text research bears out my own experience with hopping rates. High gravity worts generally require higher hopping rates, but it's because they need higher bitterness levels to balance the greater body and sweetness of the beer. > > Bitterness from Dry Hopping > > I am at loss on this one. I, for one, have never noticed it. A > lot of brewers report a pronounced *astringency* but not bitterness. > This will go away in few weeks. It is possible that some of the > alpha acids in the hops had been converted to iso-alphas, but I > think this is unlikely. The hops would have gone "cheesy" long > before there was significant conversion from ambient heat, etc. I have never experienced either effect in one of my dry-hopped beers. I leave the hops in the kegs for many weeks without getting any "cheesy" quality -- probably because cheesiness is a property of oxidation -- and I've never noticed any additional bitterness even though I dry-hop pretty heavily. On the other hand: I was present at a tasting at UC Davis, of various beers that had been hopped at varying times. You should talk to Michael Lewis about this, since he ran the program, but he, his students and those of us in the class who were actually brewers, were all surprised at the discernible bitterness in the one beer that had only been dry-hopped -- NO bittering hops or aroma hops in the boil. And, believe me, in case you don't know Michael Lewis, the QC around this issue was very high and the hopping rates were pretty damn low. Me, I have to assume the problems homebrewers are having is Pilot Error, and has almost nothing to do with dry-hopping. Just a guess. - --Jeff Frane Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 13:33:22 -0400 From: edo at marcam.com (Ed Oriordan) Subject: First all grain: the procedure I am preparing for my first all grain attempt in the next couple of weekends. This is what I am planning on doing. At the end I have some questions, that I would appreciate if anybody could respond to. Also, if anything looks strange, and you are wondering why I'm doing it, I probably don't know, so let me know. My equipment for brewing will be as follows 36 qt cooler 1/2" Slotted copper pipe manifold sparger to 3/8" reducer 10 gallon enamel pot gas cooker burner type thing chiller 7 gallon glass primary fermenter with blow-off 5 gallon glass secondary fermenter with air lock 1) Grind grains the night before. 2) Heat 1 qt water per lb grain to 168F. Add some gypsum (2 Tbl.?) to lower pH. 3) Preheat Cooler with hot water. 4) Add grain and water to mash tun (cooler) on top of manifold. Stir. 5) Check mash temp, adjust as needed to around 154F. 6) Close cooler for 1 hour. 7) Open cooler do Iodine test for conversion. If not converted close up longer. 8) Add crystal, chocolate and cara-pils (all specialty grains). 9) Raise temp to 170F (mashout) by adding near boiling (200F) water. 10) Stir till 170F is hit. Close cooler let sit 15 minutes. 11) Hook 3/8" clear tubing to manifold. Backflush with some near boiling water 12) Sprinkle 4 galons 180F sparge water (add gypsum to get pH 5 - 5.5) in cooler. 13) Start siphon, keep putting liquid back in cooler till get clear run off. Siphon into brew kettle. Try for no aeration. 14) From here on I assume it is same as extract, but with more volume (note: I already use a cooling coil). Q1 - Equip - Is 36 qt cooler ok for size (5 gallon batches)? 11.25 lbs grain. Q2 - Step 7 - If not converted and temp is lower than 154F should I adjust it back up? Should I check every 15 minutes or leave closed? Q3 - Step 8 - Is this the correct time to add specialty grains? Why? Q4 - Step 10 - Is it ok to stir? Is 15 minutes good? Q5 - Step 12 - Should I sprinkle it all in at once or just enough to cover grain bed and then continue adding so that I maintain a level 2 inches above the bed? I have a feeling the latter is correct, why? Stuck sparge? Q6 - Step 13 - I am nervous about the sparge, I hear stories of it taking a long time. Using the manifold will I get a continuous siphon or will I have to restart it periodically? How fast should I siphon? Will I have to slow the siphon down? This step is somewhat of a mystery as to how it actually will go so some help would be appreciated? I know I'm washing the sugars off the grain. What about astringency? How do I know when I've gone long enough? How long will this step take (approximately)? Q7 - All this talk of oxidation. Where do I have to worry about it? In the past the only place I have airated was going into the primary, and the only place I have specifically not airated is after the yeast kicks in through bottling. Thanks a lot Ed O' edo at marcam.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 12:20:07 EDT From: wslack.UUCP!wrs at mv.MV.COM (Bill Slack) Subject: Re: Krush-Off Phil Miller asks if the crush evaluation was blind at the Boston Wort Processor Krush-Off. No, each crush was identified to the Krush Kommittee. A quart jar was filled from each crush and was used for evaluation. Evaluations were made as the crush became available. All samples were kept and referred to by the committee when establishing relative quality of crush. I far as I know, no one on the committee had any favorite mill or predetermined expectations. I use a Corona, Bob Gorman ordered a Glatt Mill (don't know if this was before or after the test) and I don't know what Scott Keohane uses. We all watched the various tests as they took place. It was all pretty open and there were lots of opinions expressed by all present. In my opinion, the tests and evaluations were conducted in a fair and complete manner. A lot of people put in a lot of effort to pull this off and I think they succeeded. Bill __ wrs at gozer.mv.com (Bill Slack) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 93 14:14:05 EDT From: rick621 at aol.com Subject: Maple syrup/sap Hi all, I'm new to the digest and enjoy reading the thoughts and ideas posted here. I have been brewing extracts for a few years and now want to try something different. I also make my own Maple syrup. I have heard of people using this in beer and also using the uncooked sap instead of water. If anyone has a receipe, and/or experience with using syrup or sap I would appreciate your thoughts on the subject. You can post it on the digest or E-mail me at Rick621 at aol.com Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 13:06 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Milling about Gang-- Before another flame war ensues regarding commercialism on the HBD, I'd like to say that Jack has done homebrewing a great service in providing an affordable (to most) alternative to the Corona and for doing a great deal of research on the crushing of grain. I've seen no less than 8 different designs of MaltMills, each design (usually) better than the last. He has shown me grain crushed by various designs and asked me to choose which samples appeared to be the best crush. I'm told he has used my opinions as well as the evaluations of other homebrewers and experts at the Siebel Institute of Brewing to improve the design of the MaltMill. His mill has set a high standard for other mills that have followed. Granted, Jack has a financial interest in having his mill represented well in the HBD, but then again, if you re-read his latest post, you'll see that there is a lot of good, mill-independent infomation in there. I, for one, appreciate him sharing this information openly. Al. Disclaimer: I own a retail store and currently sell three of the mills in the Krush-off and plan to sell one more of them soon. I've done evaluations myself of all but the antique mill in the Krush-off and have only chosen to not stock one of them due to what I deemed a poor crush (this was NOT one of the mills that is commercially built as a homebrewing malt mill). Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1993 14:08:58 EDT From: "Marlene Spears" <hopfen!marlene at uunet.UU.NET> Subject: NO POPCORN, PLEASE! In HBD #1240, brewerbob at aol.com wrote about using *real* popcorn as packing material for shipping homebrew to competitions. Please cease and desist! Don't send popcorn unless you're shipping to a friend who doesn't mind receiving it! When the 1st Round AHA Nats were held in Boston, I was one of the lucky unpackers. Over the four sessions, I found *all* sorts of packing material, including -- oh, ye gods and little fishes! -- *buttered*, *salted* popcorn, which greased up the bottles, the labels, the entry forms, the checks, and my hands. It was really gross, kiddies. And if it wasn't salted and buttered, at least the popcorn was stale and at worst it was moldy. NO WAY was I about to ingest any of the stuff. I'm glad I didn't find any bugs or rodents in the boxes! I only wanted to get the bottles unpacked, tagged, and sorted so I could dig into the goodies Bill Murphy (site coordinator) had bought -- with his own funds, since the AHA wasn't reimbursing. And even parsimonious and uncooperative Smadams let us have draft brew. I hear Anchor is more generous. If you want to be kind to the unpackers, use shredded newspaper. It doesn't have the static electricity problems like styrofoam "popcorn". After that, make sure your bottles are blank, with the proper labels attached by rubber bands, with blacked out caps, and without incised lettering; then make sure your entry forms and payment are included, and have the box blessed so the UPS box gremlins don't screw it up. - -- - -------------- marlene at hopfen.rsi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 11:20:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: Mash out necessary? After drilling into my right knee, steeping my feet in hot wort, melting the kitchen floor, and nearly removing the tip of my left index and middle fingers (I am NOT a klutz), I have decided to set aside my "Zap-pap" food bucket lauter tun and try sparging with a copper manifold. The situation is this: I have a 10 gallon stainless brew kettle and any number of plastic food buckets, and good warm boxes. If I mash in a food bucket in a warm box then I can preheat the sparge water in the brew kettle, but then have no way to mash out without transfering water and mash all over the place. Now, Miller (TCBoHB) is adamant that mash out is absolutely necessary. Others are less certain. Hey, it's going to be boiling in a few minutes anyway. What are the opinions from HBD land? Is it more of a factor with lauter tun sparges rather than manifold sparges? Thanks in advance. Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 14:32:10 EDT From: pgs at ai.mit.edu (Patrick Sobalvarro) Subject: Krush Off Kwestion Date: Tue, 5 Oct 93 08:09:50 CDT From: pmiller at mmm.com (Philip . Miller) Many thanks to the Boston Wort Processors et al for the interesting post on mills. Just a quick question: was it a blind judging? (I.e., did the judges know which mill ground the grains they were judging?) The judging was not blind; the judges did know which mill ground the grains they were judging. In fact, they watched the grinding take place, and some of them even went so far as to make fun of the operators of the mills. And, frankly, I noticed that a couple of them drank a pretty fair amount of beer as the afternoon wore on. They're kind of shifty characters to begin with, actually. -P. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 93 15:00:04 EDT From: Aaron Morris <SYSAM at ALBANY.ALBANY.EDU> Subject: Cut rate glassware Not wishing to travel to Chicago for carboys, I went to a local Corning outlet and was ecstatic to find 5 gallon carboys for $8.99, less than three miles from my home! That was the good news. The bad news was that the local Corning outlet only had 5 gallon carboys and I was looking for six and three gallon carboys. The less-than-pleasant sales person informed me that in no way, shape or form does Corning make or market anything other than 5 gallon carboys and there was no way in the world that she could procure for me 6 or 3 gallon carboys. This doesn't ring right to me. Does the outlet in Chicago have 3 and 65 gallon carboys? Unfortunately, I didn't save the address for the Corning outlet in Chicago. If they do have 3 and 6 gallon carboys available for shipping, would some kind soul please mail to me the address/phone number of that outlet. Thanks in advance! Aaron Morris (SYSAM at ALBNYVM1) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 14:47:23 CDT From: "Anthony Johnston" <anthony at chemsun.chem.umn.edu> Subject: Pumpkin Ale Recipe Because of the number of requests for Pumpkin Ale I have seen on the HBD recently, here is one that I particularly enjoy: Barefoot Pumpkin Ale Bring to a boil 1qt water. Add 1 29oz can of pumpkin (I recommend Libby's because it is 100% pumpkin. So are most other brands, but make sure before you use it.) Stir. Add 1 3.3 lb can of DMS Malt extract. Stir. The temp should come to about 152 F. Hold at this temp for 40 mins. While this is going on you can get the rest of the ingredients to a boil in your brewpot: 1 gallon water 3.3 lbs NW (Briess) Amber malt Add pumpkin mash (mush?) to the brewpot and bring to a boil. Add 1 oz German Hallertauer pellets and 1 oz Hersbrucker plugs. Boil 45 mins. Add 1 oz Hallertauer pellets, 2 cinnamon sticks (about 2-2.5 inches long), 1 tsp ground cardamom, 2 tsp whole cloves, 1 tsp + 1 shake of nutmeg, 1 tsp ground allspice, 1 tbsp ground ginger, and 1 Tbsp Irish Moss flakes. Let boil 10 mins. Add 0.5 oz Saaz pellets. Reduce (turn off heat) and cover brewpot and let steep for 5 mins. As I recall, sparging this mess to the fermenter was a problem because the pumpkin is a real fine mush. I think I just added all of it to my primary and topped it off to about 5 or 5.5 gals, let it cool and racked away from the mush that settled out. This leaves a lot behind. When I make this again, I will do a full volume boil and use a wort chiller and this should cause most of the stuff to drop out. Yeast: Whitbread Ale Yeast OG = 1.040 Racked to secondary at 1.010 FG = ca. 1.006-8 Tasting notes: Real nice spice/hops balance. Good color and very clear. I would enter this in a contest, but I bottled it entirely into large bottles. :) Comments/suggestions/criticisms(constructive) should be emailed direct to: anthony at chemsun.chem.umn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1993 16:28:00 EST From: "Pamela J. Day 7560" <DAY at A1.TCH.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: Re: Chilling Wort I don't bother trying to chill my wort, instead I make sure that the water in the fermenter is a cold as I can possibly get it. I either put it in a spare refrigerator (alas a luxury) the night before I brew or in the winter I put it out on the porch until it's cold. Depending upon how cold the water in the primary is, after I pour boiling wort into it, it's down to anywhere between 65-80F immediatly. If I wind up having to wait to pitch, it's usually less than an hour. Good Luck! pam Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1993 17:51:14 -0500 From: Chris McDermott <mcdermott at draper.com> Subject: Victorian Ales Victorian Ales What exactly is a Victorian Ale (besides a the obvious: an ale brewed during the victorian period)? I'm trying to find information describing this style and the procedures to used to brew it, but I haven't had much luck. Can anyone out there help. A pointer to a source of literature would be great. Personal experience would be even better. Thanks, Chris McDermott Send mail for PGP public key mcdermott at draper.com * * * 617.258.2362 * ******************************** 617.381.9768 * * * ****** *** *** Return to table of contents
Date: 06 Oct 1993 14:43:14 PST From: "JSDAWS1 at PROFSSR" <JSDAWS1 at PB1.PacBell.COM> Subject: spiced beer Hi all.. I'm contemplating a spiced X-mas ale for this weekend and would like some opinions on the quantities and procedures for adding spices. My recipe is as follows for 5 gal 10 lbs Hugh-Baird pale malt 1 lb Hugh-Baird 80L Crystal mash at 158 for 60 min 1 oz Kent Goldings ( 60 min 1/2 oz Centenials ( 20 min Wyeast 1098 ( expecting SG of 1060.. no clue where it might finish spices ?? cinomon, nutmeg, vanilla Does using whole vs powdered spices like cinomon and nutmeg make a difference What about vanilla extract vs. beans. When to add them ? at the end of the boil or with priming sugar Quantities of each spice. I'm also asuming no finishing hops as that would interfere with spice flavors. Any and all opinioons appreciated. | Don't anthropomorphize computers... They don't like it. | | ------------------------------------------------------------------- | | JACK DAWSON - JSDAWS1 - 415 545-0299 - CUSTOMER BILLING (BG) | Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 22:10:35 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Rager Number Error A while ago someone sent me email about the 7462 error in Rager's numbers that all of us have taken for granted as being correct, but is in fact off (this is the metric to avoir. conversion constant). I have inadvertently erased the note, so if whoever it was could send it again, I would be grateful. Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 93 22:07:21 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Hops (what else?) Domenick Venezia asked me to clarify my comments on "fermentation utilization" and says something to the effect of "huh? this is an extraction technique". (Forgive me for not being able to pull the comments directly, but I'm not on a system for the next two weeks that allows that.) The extraction of hop alpha acids and their subsequent conversion into iso-alpha acids is only one part of the equation. There are many post boil events that affect the final amount of iso-alphas in the finished beer. Some are: Yeast type and flocculation characteristics, fermentation time and temperature, wort gravity, how much the wort pH drops as it ferments, fermentation methods, lagering or not, filtration or not, and more. All of these can combine to make big differences in the amount of iso-alpha acids left in the beer by the time it reaches your lips, as opposed to simply the amount extracted by the boil into the sweet wort. I also noticed when reading my own post, that I said something like "as the gravity of the fermenting wort rises..." and I realized that some might have thought that I was implying that wort gravity rises as it ferments. Of course it drops, but I should have said "the higher the starting gravity of the wort is at the time you begin fermentation, the lower your utilization will be." Interesting to note that Kelly Jones reported that his bitterness has gone away almost entirely, as I had reprted that other brewers had noted. Finally, I'll deal with Al's comments off-line. Mark Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1242, 10/07/93