HOMEBREW Digest #1693 Thu 30 March 1995

Digest #1692 Digest #1694

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Brewing Techniques Article on HBD (brewing chemist Mitch)
  Honey I Primed The Beer (molloy)
  Leaching Lead from Crystal (jwolf)
  Valley mill/Wooden casks/Yeast culturing (Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies)
  Software for Homebrewers ("Fisette Richard")
  Aeration vs Oxygentation (Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies)
  RE: Venturi VS Bernoulli ("Keith Royster")
  RE: Venturi VS Bernoulli #2 ("Keith Royster")
  stuck at 1020/raw wheat/grassy hops/blackmalt & polyphenols (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  boiling water sparge/cloudy wheat beers/uncovered pots/D-C Pale Malt (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  1st Round - Chicago - Update (Dennis Davison)
  carboy stand (Eric Peters (919) 405-3675)
  Pyramid Apricot Ale clone (again) (mlloyd)
  RootBeer - How do they do it? (WIRESULTS)
  Re: DeWolf-Cosyns Malts (PILS and Pale Ale) (Matt Henry)
  SABCO keg experience? / Pauls Malt? / Wyeast 1968 report (Rich Lenihan)
  How to pronounce Wit (Andy Price)
  Another bottle of Evan's ale (t.olsen)
  Center for Brewing Studies address (Lenny Garfinkel)
  Brew Pubs in New Orleans (Rick Anderson)
  Re: Rauchbier Roundup (Timothy J. Dalton)
  Re: Aeration of wort:  O2 vs. Air (Steve Zabarnick)
  Hoptech Shipping Problems (Jay_Richards)
  yeast questions (BarryM)
  Stuck CO2 regulator (Brian Pickerill)
  Band Width .02 $ (molloy)
  Atlas Mill Modifications (Curt Woodson)
  Diacetyl ("James Giacalone")
  Lager Yeast Lag Time (DBURKE)
  straws / fermentap "replica" (BarryM)
  Brewers of South Suburbia Competition Results (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 12:49:11 -0600 (CST) From: gellym at aviion.persoft.com (brewing chemist Mitch) Subject: Brewing Techniques Article on HBD I just received the current issue of Brewing Techniques. There was a good article written by Norm Pyle on the Homebrew Digest, which I was able to show my wife and say 'here, this is what the HBD was and is about.' A point made by Norm was that although thousands read the HBD, in a recent survey it was discovered that virtually all the posts are made by approx. 100 people. I would have liked to see the list of the top 10 contributors. I've got five bucks on Al K. being at the top of that list ;-> Speaking of BT, in HBD 1691, Jeff Wolf asks about Zima, and what it is. In the last issue of BT (Jan/Feb ?) someome (sorry do not remember who, and do not have the mag here in my office) did a bit of research and a nice write-up on the 'Zima process'. It was very interesting, although the comical replacement of all occurrances of the letter 's' with the letter 'z' gave me a headache halfway through the article. And it was not even that long of an article ! Later, Mitch - -- -- Mitch Gelly -- owner/brewmaster of the ManOwaR nano-Brewery software QA specialist, unix systems administrator, Usenet admin, zymurgist, BJCP beer judge, president of the Madison Homebrewers -- gellym at aviion.persoft.com -- QC is OUT, QA is IN ! Deal with it. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 14:00:50 -0500 From: molloy at tcpcs3.dnet.etn.com Subject: Honey I Primed The Beer My last creation was a Belgian, but I am a bit of a renegade so I brewed with a lb of honey instead of malto-dextrin, I also primed with 3/4 cup honey. (about 3/4 lb I think) Things got very interesting when I opened one up after only 6 days and found the carbination was out of controll. I decided to refridgerate all the beer to stop any further carbination. I noticed that the beer has a very nice, slight, tast of honey. The honey I used was whipped and spreadable I wounder if this had any effect on carb time? I think a problem with this method might be if the beer was allowed to warm up for a few days it would over carbinate. This also means that you could not age the beer for months, in say the basement. FYI: I used that 1214 Banana yeast, The flavor is only present in the first sip and then it is not noticable at all. The beer has got rave reviews by all, and I am waiting to bring some to my first KLOB home brew club meeting next month. AAAHHH BOCK! got to love it The Zootopia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 14:06:45 EST From: jwolf at penril.com Subject: Leaching Lead from Crystal OK, another possible non-beer related question for you chemists out there (now if you had questions about data communications...): A friend of mine asks if the lead in lead crystal leaches out into his fine old Irish Whiskey? My opinion is that the lead is pretty well sequestered by the glass, but what do I know? Thanks, Jeff Wolf jwolf at penril.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 12:40:26 -0700 (MST) From: Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies <flemingk at usa.net> Subject: Valley mill/Wooden casks/Yeast culturing Valley Roller Mill - ------------------ RE: HBD 1691 Douglas O'Brien says: >The [Valley Mill] rollers are 9" long x 1" diameter knurled >stainless steel with a direct drive handle (i.e. no gears or pulleys). a) How does roller 1 turn roller 2--that is, how are the two coupled then, if at all? b) Would you say the knurling is full-depth and somewhat 'sharp', or does it appear to be shallow knurling with a smoother surface? c) Ball bearings or bronze bushings? Wooden Barrels (Casks) - ---------------------- At a homebrew shop in Denver I saw a ~5 gal wooden cask displayed along with various associated parts, etc. I'm interested in casks of that size, but would prefer smaller ones (say 10-15 L). Does anyone know of a source and/or how much these barrels cost retail? Yeast Culturing - --------------- Has anyone innoculated slants using samples taken from the fermenter during an active ferment? If so, have you experienced the propagation of 'stuff' other than the desired yeast? I just did this and it seemed like a really dumb idea when I was done... Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 1995 15:32:07 -0500 From: "Fisette Richard" <fisette.richard at mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com> Subject: Software for Homebrewers Unknown Microsoft mail form. Approximate representation follows. To: HBD From: Fisette Richard on Tue, Mar 28, 1995 3:32 PM Subject: Software for Homebrewers I am considering buying some brewing software for the PC to give as a birthday present. The gift recipient is an extract brewer who is just about ready to make the all-grain jump. Are any of the software packages I see advertised in the magazines worthwhile? If so does anyone care to give any endorsements/personal experiences? Thanks, Rick Fisette fisette.richard at mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 13:35:19 -0700 (MST) From: Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies <flemingk at usa.net> Subject: Aeration vs Oxygentation RE: HBD 1690 and 1691 (Wort Aeration) Steve Z says: > Thus as air is 20.9% oxygen, a wort [that] is completely aerated (i.e. > in equilibrium) with air will contain 4.8 times less oxygen [than] one > that is in equilibrium with a 100% oxygen environment. Agreed, but that issue was never the question. We'd expect that wort will *never* be in a 100% oxygen environment. The issue was whether or not you can saturate wort with oxygen using air *in a standard atomosphere*. IOW can you get the 8.55ppm oxygen (in water, now) using air alone. Put yet another way, I think Carl was asserting you can dissolve as much oxygen in wort using air as you can using pure oxygen, given the wort is in a standard atmosphere (like, uh, your house). Is THAT true or not? - -- Kirk R Fleming Colorado Springs flemingk at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 17:26:34 EST From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us> Subject: RE: Venturi VS Bernoulli In HBD #1691 Geoff Scott wrote: > > I'm sorry that I missed the first part of this discussion, but from > what you describe, it sounds more like the Bernoulli effect than > Venturi. A Venturi tube is one in which flow cavitates (i.e. the > liquid turns back into vapor because of a reduction of pressure) > because of changes in the tubes diameter. If this is what is > happening in your tube, then no aeration is taking place since the > bubbles in the fluid are simply the fluid in a vapor state. However, > if you are getting aeration by having air sucked in through a small > hole, then a good explanation would be that the reduced pressure due > to the moving fluid (Bernoulli effect) is causing it. I hope this > helps. > > John > Sorry, but this is not correct. As far as I am aware, there is no Bernoulli "effect", just the Bernoulli equation, which basically says that a flowing liquid has three "types" of energy: velocity, pressure, and elevation, and that the sum of these is constant (ideally, not counting for flow friction). So say you have flow through a level pipe (elevation energy is constant) and the pipe diameter suddenly decreases. Conservation of mass says the flow must be faster in the smaller pipe (higher velocity energy), so the pressure energy must drop to keep the sums constant. THIS is the Venturi effect. This drop in pressure of a flowing liquid is what "sucks" the air in through the hole in your racking tube. So, the Bernoulli equation is what explains the Venturi effect. That is their relationship. I hope THIS helps ;-) +------------------------------+-------------------------+ | Keith Royster | NC-DEHNR / Air Qualtiy | | Environmental Engineer (EIT) | 919 North Main St. | | n1ea471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us | Mooresville, NC 28115 | +------------------------------+ Voice: (704) 663-1699 | | "I think I ran over my | Fax: (704) 663-6040 | | Dogma with my Karma." | | +------------------------------+-------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 17:34:37 EST From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us> Subject: RE: Venturi VS Bernoulli #2 One more note on the Venturi Vs Bernoulli discussion: If the above descibed change in pressure is great enough (ie the fluid pressure is less than the vapor pressure) then cavitation (spontaneous vaporization) will occur. This is what I beleive Dr. Pratte was referring to. So the Venturi effect can explain cavitation, but is not defined by it. +------------------------------+-------------------------+ | Keith Royster | NC-DEHNR / Air Qualtiy | | Environmental Engineer (EIT) | 919 North Main St. | | n1ea471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us | Mooresville, NC 28115 | +------------------------------+ Voice: (704) 663-1699 | | "I think I ran over my | Fax: (704) 663-6040 | | Dogma with my Karma." | | +------------------------------+-------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 95 14:30:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: stuck at 1020/raw wheat/grassy hops/blackmalt & polyphenols Johnathan writes about his 1050 beer being stuck at 1020. >But enough theories. What should I do? Thinking that I had cured the >problem, I dry hopped the beer after introducing the dry yeast. And I don't >mind the taste of it (flat and warm). So should I just keg? Or rerack, add >yeast nutrients, more yeast and wait some more? (And if I do option 2, >should I try to aerate through sloppy racking and a little carboy shaking? Perhaps the extract was mis-labeled or you thought you used M&F, but actually used Laaglander or "Dutch" DME. If it was indeed Laaglander or "Dutch" DME, then 1020 is the correct FG. Underaeration can be a problem with high-gravity beers (i.e. high alcohol), but I wouldn't call a 1050 beer "high-gravity." Since your wort was all-malt, I don't think nutrients are your problem. Aerating after fermentation has started will elevate diacetyl levels, but aerating after the beer is done will just oxidize alcohols into aldehydes and the beer will smell and taste "off." So, no sloppy racking or carboy shaking... >P.S. -- Has anyone tried Blue Ridge Lager by micro Rainbow Ridge Brewing Co. I tried it and thought it was quite enjoyable for an American Light Lager. Better flavour and balance than most American Light Lagers. I'm not a fan of this style (I prefer ales) but if confronted with the choice of Blue Ridge and the industrial megabrews, I'd drink the Blue Ridge. I've also heard that this brewery has beers coming in red and white bottles by July 4th and then black, green and yellow bottles for the Olympics. Perhaps some of their other beers will be ales... *** Jack writes: > Question? Does raw wheat need to be pre-boiled like corn to gelatinize it? Yes. *** Bruce writes: >1. Is "grassiness" due to hop variety, age, amount, or a combination of >factors? I believe it is due to variety and age. Also, my homegrown hops had a very grassy aroma till I dried them, so improper or insufficient drying could lend a grassy note, but for commercially made hop pellets, I would think this would be very unlikely. I believe what I said on this subject before is that different varieties tend to take on different smells as they age. Some are "piney" some "grassy" others "cheezy." >4. Garetz states, on page 192, that if you dry hop you should also use >finishing hops (late boil addition) and while it is OK to use finishing hops >without dry hopping, it generally is not OK the other way around. Any >comments on this? I've not noticed any problems dry hopping without >finishing hops. Dryhopping will give different aromatic qualities to your beer than adding finishing hops. It is impossible to quantify these characteristics, so I won't even try to explain them, you just have to try it. Nonetheless, there is no reason that dryhopping means you have to use finishing hops or vice versa. There is also no reason that you could not do both in the same batch. The short boil will boil-off some of the aromatics and may change others slightly which is why you get different aromas from the two methods of adding hop aroma to your beer. I will resist the temptation... the facts are enough. *** Nic writes: >On an un-related topic. I've heard that adding very small amounts (grams >per batch) of roasted barley (black) will benefit any style of beer. Once >source says that it reduces oxidation, another (Charlie P.) says that it >improves flavor by reducing polyphenols. Neither source cites any study. If you have high carbonate water, dark grain (a bit more than grams per batch) will lower your mash pH and thus reduce polyphenol extraction from the husks, but were talking about a minimum of 4 or 8 ounces in a 5gallon batch to make a difference. I can't see why it would reduce oxidation unless the thought is that a beer with more melanoidins (*not* the source of colour in black malt, I believe) would be less likely to suffer from off-flavours when it is fresh (the melanoidins give the oxygen up as the beer ages). If indeed this is where this rumour began, it hinges on whether black malt gets its colour from melanoidins or not. I believe it doesn't. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 95 14:35:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: boiling water sparge/cloudy wheat beers/uncovered pots/D-C Pale Malt Rob writes: >So, *MY* alternative when I mash was to sparge with boiling water. That >effectivly rinses my grains and brings it up to 170 fairly quickly since >im removing ~156F water, and adding ~212F water. > >This is where I was told that I should *NOT* add boiling water, and just >add 170F water. Now, am I off base here? Discussion of extracted >tannins and such from the mash was the main concerns for using boiling >water. Ive been using this method now for some time with really no >adverse effects in taste. Unless the pH is high, there should be no more fear of tannin (polyphenol) extraction from 212F water than from 170F water, but what you *should* be concerned about is unconverted starch extraction. If your crush is fine and your conversion good, then the amount of unconverted starch is probably negligible and there is little reason for concern, but if you are getting a permanent haze that is not temperature-dependent, then it could be starch. *** Jack writes: > BTW, I am starting a batch of wheat beer (40% raw wheat) and it will be > interesting to see how the gelatine works on this stuff. I get the feeling > that people expect wheat beer to be cloudy and I would be interested in > hearing what experience folks have with gelatin in wheat beer. Let's remember that there are two types of cloudy wheat beers. The cloudiness in Bavarian Weizens is due to the pouring of the yeast from the bottom of the bottle into the glass and not from the wheat. The cloudiness in the Belgian White style of beer is indeed from protein and most (all?) Belgian white brewers use raw wheat as Jack is proposing, so without long glucan and protein rests, you probably will have a cloudy beer. I don't know what the gelatine will do to so much protein, however. *** Jim writes: >Pat asks: > ><Q. Do you cover or uncover the brewpot? <snip> >< But are the negative consequences (not evaporating undesireable volatiles, >< etc) significant enough that I should buy a 150,000bu propane-fired burner? <snip> > >A partially covered pot is OK. I would try to situate it so that any >condensate will not end up back in the kettle, if possible. A partially >covered pot will still allow the desirable venting of the boiled off >volatiles. In the large copper onion dome kettles, there is a special <snip> I have brewed every one of my 200+ batches with a partially covered kettle where the condensate on the inside of the lid *DID* drip back into the kettle and neither I, nor any judge who has tasted my beer, have sensed any DMS or other undesirable aromatics in any of my beers. However, 99% of them have been ales and the evolving CO2 does scrub out remaining DMS, so Jim's advice may be more important for lager brewers where the CO2 evolution is much slower. Just a few datapoints. *** George writes: >Anecdotal evidence exits that >suggest the problems Steve and Scott cite with the Pale Ale malt >are not uncommon. I have heard of slow and turbid lautering, beers which >are very hard to filter, and related problems. Intuitively this >would seem to point to elevated wort beta-glucan levels, however >I have not seen data to support this... I have not tried to filter any of the beers I've made with the D-C Pale Ale malt, but have never had any problems with slow or turbid lautering. I did have problems with excessive cold break and a slight, irritating permanent haze which I eliminated with a 30-minute protein rest at 135-140F. Would elevated beta-glucan levels result in excessive cold break? Should I instead try a beta-glucan rest and bypass the protein rest? Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 16:46:33 -0600 From: ddavison at earth.execpc.com (Dennis Davison) Subject: 1st Round - Chicago - Update To: Those planning on attending the 1st round judging in Chicago The Brewoff Dinner has been reduced in price to $35.00. If your check is in the mail you will get a refund. Also, I have secured a block of rooms at The Red Roof Inn for $47.99 + tax per night for double occupancy (2 beds also). You must call 1-800-843-7663 and make the reservation yourself, mention the AHA and this confirmation # B199000021 to get these rates. You must make the reservation by April 18th. - -- Dennis Davison ddavison at earth.execpc.com Milwaukee, WI Judge Director of the 1st Round of The AHA Nationals - Chicago,IL 1995 Organizer - Real Ale Fest - Chicago - October 13,14 1995 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 17:57:20 EST From: epeters at edasich.rtp.semi.harris.com (Eric Peters (919) 405-3675) Subject: carboy stand In HBD 1691 Daniel Hays writes: >Eric, if I'm not mistaken, far from beating a dead horse, yours is >only the second post I've seen in response to the Fermentap review-- >the horse isn't even comatose! >I'm beginning to think that the inverted carboy method is one I need to >adopt, since after a year-and-a-half of struggle I remain >siphon-impaired. Though it seems the big drawbacks might be the >inability to use those convenient hop pellets in either the boil or in >dry-hopping, I still think the minimal exposure of wort to air makes this >practice one best suited for me. I'd be interested in more specific >information--as may your fellow BrewCap users--about the stand you guys >built and how it incorporates the Lazy Susan bearings. I shouldn't be so hard on pellets. We had a bad experience with pellets at various stages of our process and haven't used them since. I ain't a pellet fella. There may be a legion of inverters who use them religiously. Your milage could quite possibly differ by a considerable amount. Minimal exposure is why we invert. We ferment in a root cellar off my brother's basement. Before we cleaned it up, I was afraid to go in there. There are still some cracks in the foundation that bring in outside air and masses of crickets. We think we stopped the flooding, but won't know until we get rain. Anyway, it's not an ideal fermentation room. When we started to use it, we went upside down to eliminate racking from primary to secondary. Our fermentation is completely closed from chiller to keg. I've never siphoned so I can't relate to your troubles. I won't detail our stand. We used two-by-fours that we had a pile of and made it up as we went. She is a beauty though. Go crazy and hang your inverted carboy from the ceiling or bolt it to a wall. Hey, concrete is cheap! Eric Peters Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 15:23:19 EST From: mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com Subject: Pyramid Apricot Ale clone (again) Thanks for all the responses pointing out how to use real apricots in my attempt to clone Pyramid Apricot Ale. Those responses are missing the point somewhat in that I am curious as to the use of apricot essence to clone this product. I have personally spoken with a brewmaster at Pyramid who confirmed for me that their apricot ale is made using the same essence that I purchased. Thus, my curiosity is how to duplicate Pyramid's product using the same apricot essence. If you have any ideas on this, please post to the HBD or send me private e-mail. Good responses will be summarized in a future issue of the HBD. Michael G. Lloyd mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 18:42:56 -0600 From: WIRESULTS at WINET.psinet.org Subject: RootBeer - How do they do it? ok, I give up.... There are lots of microbrewers out there doing some seriously good rootbeer. Anyone got some thoughts on what sort of recipies are really used and what kinds of brewing practices these are? Provate E-Mail fine. I can repost if I get a good turnout TIA Randy Lee wiresults at winet.psinet.org -or- wiresults at winet.mste.org Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 95 18:37:50 +0000 From: mhenry at cheswicks.toadnet.org (Matt Henry) Subject: Re: DeWolf-Cosyns Malts (PILS and Pale Ale) I just read HBD #1690 and #1691, and was quite dismayed to find that the malts I have been using for the past couple of years have apparently been dropping in quality. I am speaking of the DeWolf-Cosyns Pils and Pale Ale malts. Since these malts are losing their quality, I would like to know what malts are available out there that are good. Thanks, Matt Henry Mhenry at cheswicks.toadnet.org - -- |Fidonet: Matt Henry 86:8012/63 |Internet: mhenry at cheswicks.toadnet.org | | Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 22:09:52 -0500 From: rich at lenihan.iii.net (Rich Lenihan) Subject: SABCO keg experience? / Pauls Malt? / Wyeast 1968 report With warm weather coming on, I've decided to move the brewery out of the kitchen and into the garage. Toward this end, I've decided to bite the bullet and purchase a ready-made keg/brewpot (my wife won't let me near power tools). I've seen the SABCO keg with the brass ball valve attached. Has anyone worked with this and is there any thing I should know about before I part with $100 for this baby? - --- I recently purchased 55 lbs of British 2-row malt made by Pauls or something like that. Has anyone worked with it. I tried 4 lbs of it in my last batch together with my last 4 pounds of M&F malt and I had more trouble than usual getting clear runoff. Of course, this could just be me having a bad day. Thought I'd ask, though. - --- This is an update to some earlier posts of mine regarding troubles I was having with Wyeast 1968 (London ESB). I had made 3 batches with problematic (sluggish, incomplete) fermentations. To recap, my problems were in three areas: 1. This yeast goes to sleep if outside temps get much below 68F, which is common in my house during the winter. 2. This yeast needs lots of oxygen 3. You should ideally pitch a lot of yeast, as much as for lagers. The key here is that 1968 is HIGHLY flocculent and many people suggested frequent arousing/agitation. The problem is that once this yeast "goes to sleep", it's hard to wake it up. I believe that pitching lotsa yeast helps, my problem is that I don't often plan my brewing far enough in advance to build up a sufficient starter - I'm lucky if I get 2 ounces of slurry. The oxygen part I'm working on... Now the update: I brewed two more batches. On the first (or fourth overall), I pitched the yeast cake from the secondary of a previous batch. Unfortunately, I had technical problems with my aerator and was only able to aerate the wort for about 90 seconds. Results - lag time of about 24 hours, fermentation about 9-10 days, final gravity of about 1.014 (from an original SG of 1.48). OK, enough to convince me that there is some truth to 3 (above). Next (most recent) batch. Pitched with usual 2 ounces of slurry but aerated wort for 2 hours. Also, acting on a tip from a member of my brewclub, I agitated the wort about once an hour for the first 5 or six hours (until I went to bed). Lag time about 12-14 hours with a final gravity of 1.012 (down from 1.050) after 7 days. OK, now I'm sold on 2 (above). I kept the temps as near to 68F as I could for both batches. Conclusion: This yeast has a really distinctive flavor profile that I really enjoy, otherwise I would not have put up with this much trouble. However, I'm not convinced that this yeast is worth the trouble (for me). By the way, even though this yeast is so flocculent, the resulting beers all have a yeasty taste. I don't know if this just the nature of the yeast or a result of the long exposure to the yeast during primary fermentation. I don't normally fine my beers unless they're really turbid. Still looking for that perfect English ale yeast... -Rich Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 09:17:28 GMT From: pri at MAS.esco.Eurocontrol.be (Andy Price) Subject: How to pronounce Wit Finally, something I can comment on.... Wit is pronounced Vit, but the V sound is made with the lower lip behind the teeth. This was drummed into me whilst ordering Wit beers over here in the Netherlands and in Northern Germany. The Digest is really good reading, I can't wait till I move out of my tiny appartment and start brewing again.... Cheers, Andy Price _________________________________________________________ _ ___ | \_\__\____ Andy Price \- ooooooo \ Siemens Plessey Systems \___/ /___/ ODS Project /_ / pri at mas.esco.eurocontrol.be Eurocontrol Maastricht U.A.C Tel: +31 043 661495 Horsterweg 11 Fax: +31 043 661545 NL 6191, RX BEEK (L) NETHERLANDS _________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 09:55:00 UTC From: t.olsen at genie.geis.com Subject: Another bottle of Evan's ale Subject: Another bottle of Evan's Ale I also have seen an old bottle named Evan's Ale at my cousin's camp in Randolph Vt. Your statement about the lack history of ale brewing in the North East is wrong. In upstate NY historical records indicate that Goosen Gerritsen a brewer by trade arrived in Beverwyck(Albany) in 1636, and leased the Patoon's(Kilean Van Rensselaer) brewery in 1649 with Rutger Jacobson, a river boat owner. The pair brewed 57,000 gallons of beer their first year. Ale brewing was the only kind of beer brewed up until the 1800's Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 12:27:29 +0200 (IST) From: Lenny Garfinkel <lenny at zeus.datasrv.co.il> Subject: Center for Brewing Studies address Can anyone send me the mailing address for the Center for Brewing Studies in San Francisco? Thanks, Lenny _________________________________________________________________ Dr. Leonard Garfinkel | Internet: lenny at zeus.datasrv.co.il Bio-Technology General | Office Phone: 972-8-381256 Kiryat Weizmann | Home Phone: 972-8-451505 Rehovot, Israel | FAX: 972-8-409041 - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed Mar 29 04:58:28 1995 From: <andersr%smtpgate at police.stpaul.gov> (Rick Anderson) Subject: Brew Pubs in New Orleans Hello everyone, I wil;l be traveling to the New Orleans area in July and I am trying to find info on local micro brewers and brew-pubs. If you have any info that might help please post or send E-mail rick.anderson at stpaul.gov Thanks, Rick Anderson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 07:11:39 EST From: Timothy J. Dalton <dalton at subpac.enet.dec.com> Subject: Re: Rauchbier Roundup Scott Bickham (bickham at msc.cornell.edu) wrote [with some deletions]: > I have received some queries regarding the Rauchbier Round-up........ > This competition will definitely take place, regardless of the status of the > Beer Judge Certification Program on the date.......... > There's still time to brew your favorite smoked porter or peted scotch > ale, so get busy! Isn't this contest just for Bavarian-style rauchbier ? Or is it open to other sorts of smoked beers ? Peat smoked malt and beechwood smoked malt ar two very different creatures. I was under the impression that it was solely for Bavarian Rauchbier, and not for the other styles. (and yes, my rauch has been lagering for a couple of months already ;-) Tim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 08:34:15 -0500 From: steve at snake.appl.wpafb.af.mil (Steve Zabarnick) Subject: Re: Aeration of wort: O2 vs. Air David C. Harsh posted to HBD #1692: >Sorry, but this is a mis-interpretation of Henry's law. Henry's law is for >the equilbrium relationship of a non-critical gas, but the critical >temperature for oxygen is 154.6 K (about -180 F), so you can't really use >Henry's law as defined (the limit of the ratio of liquid phase fugacity to The critical pressure of O2 is 50.1 atm, so at one atmosphere oxygen is a gas. >Also, the concept >of "dilute" refers to mole fraction in the solution (pure oxygen is not >dilute under any pressure or temperature) - mole fraction of oxygen in air >is 20.9% and the dilute region for equilibrium calculations is rarely >considered to be above 5-10%. Henry's law required a dilute solution; the solubility of 100 % O2 in water at one atmosphere is 40.9 ppm; this is sufficiently dilute for Henry's law. >Of more importance is that there is no reason that air can't be used to >reach saturation if the gas is sufficiently soluble - this level of >saturation (40.89 ppm) doesn't care how you get there. The data I've seen >posted on r.c.b. and in the digest tend to support that you don't need pure >oxygen. It would take longer using air because the concentration >difference (the driving force for oxygen transfer into the liquid) is less, >but the same equilibrium could be reached. No, the amount of dissolved oxygen in water AT EQUILIBRIUM is proportional to the concentration of oxygen in the space above the liquid. If I put water in a container and pressurize the container to 2 atmospheres with air, at equilibrium there will be 2 times more air in solution than at one atmosphere. The so-called "saturation level" (40.9 ppm) of oxygen in water is simply the equilibrium amount reached at one atmosphere pure oxygen at 25 C. There is nothing magical about this "saturation level", I can easily exceed it by pressurization. Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 08:35:35 EDT From: Jay_Richards at compuware.com Subject: Hoptech Shipping Problems Fellow HBD'ers: I recently received an order from HOPTECH which had a number of problems and was wondering if any one else has had problems, or if this was an isolated case. First of all I ordered from them based on their very informative and promissing catalog, I just wish all the promises made in the catalog were true. The problems I had were: - I requested 3 day shipping which was not done, I paid an extra $5 for 8 day shipping. - The shipment was short one bottle of fruit extract. - All contents of the package were coated with raspberry extract, but none of the packing material or Wyeast packages were coated. Neither was the box. - Was missing "Detailed Instructions" for using the fruit extract. - The grains ordered as crushed were not. - The packages of Hops were not marked with the oil content or Alpha % rating. - The grains were not marked with the actual LOV rating. I know some of these seem minor, but again I ordered from them based on the catalog which promissed all of this, and when I add them all up it seems they have a problem. When I contacted the company they offered to reship the grains and fruit extract and they gave me the rating information that was missing from the packages. I requested they fax me the extract instructions, which as of this morning I still have not received. This morning I also had a message from them that I file a claim with UPS for a damaged shipment. I am convinced that the shipment was repacked, the box was dry, but I am not convinced that UPS was at fault. I will politely inform Hoptech that I did not contract with UPS, they did, so the claim should come from them. I also do not want to get caught in the middle. Has anyone else had problems with ordering supplies from Hoptech, or any mail order supply? This was my first attempt at mail order and I'm not sure if there is any advantage. TIA. Jay Richards in Dearborn, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 09:31:03 EST From: BarryM <BarryM at silverplatter.com> Subject: yeast questions I've read all I could find on yeast -- Papazian's "Joy" and "Companion", zymurgy's "Yeast & Beer", YEAST.FAQ, Dave Draper's "Culturing", and various other tidbits on the net. A few questions for those in the know: 1. One article in zymurgy's "Yeast and Beer" issue states that lager yeasts tend to ferment trisaccharides, ale yeasts do not. Are these trisaccharides responsible for the fruity characteristics of ales? Is it the temperature or the yeast that determines whether trisaccharides are fermented? (Would a lager yeast at ale temps leave these sugars alone?) 2. Is it CO2 production that determines whether yeast is top- or bottom-fermenting? That is, do yeasts at warmer temps produce enough CO2 to get bubbled up to the top, while yeasts at colder temps produce CO2 slowly and therefore remain at the bottom? Or is there something inherent (weight? cell structure?) to the yeasts that determine where they do their thing? (Are lager yeasts at ale temps, such as in steam beers, bubbled to the top and considered top-fermenting?) Special thanks to Dave Draper for pointing out that slants are NOT difficult. I've got colonies of three Wyeast strains living quietly in my fridge... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 09:28:48 -0600 From: 00bkpickeril at virgo.bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: Stuck CO2 regulator I thought I was lucky when I got a bench capper for $2 at a flea market. (Especially since my _wife_, without whom I wouldn't have been there to begin with, pointed it out to me. :) Now, I met this new brewer, friend of a friend, who _gave_ me a regulator. The only problem is that the knob is stuck so I guess it's now non-adjustable. Before he gave it to me he said that it would only work at low pressure, which sounded fine to me, I just won't force carbonate; no problem with that. Now that I have it though, I am wondering if I should try to dismantle it and lubricate it with something. I can see through a slit in the knob that there is some rust on a spring inside the knob. Is it a good idea to try to take it apart? Does anybody have any experience, and/or horror stories to share? Thanks, - --Brian Pickerill <00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu> Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 09:28:01 -0500 From: molloy at tcpcs3.dnet.etn.com Subject: Band Width .02 $ Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Mar 95 10:18:40 EST From: Curt Woodson <cdwood at lexmark.com> Subject: Atlas Mill Modifications I just purchased an Atlas Pasta Mill at a flea market this past weekend for $1. It was missing the handle but who cares for that price. Now I need to know how to modify it to feed and crush grain. Should I knurl the rollers or put horiz. grooves like a MaltMill(tm) has? Anyone currently using one? If so what did you do? I know I have seen this discussed before and it should be archived somewhere and I have looked at Stanford.edu but could not find anything. Pointers to where to look or the information on what needs to be done are appreciated. May your next batch be your best! Curt Woodson cdwood at lexmark.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 8:38:35 MST From: "James Giacalone" <JGiacalone at vines.ColoState.EDU> Subject: Diacetyl Hello fellow brewers, I have been brewing all grains for some time now but as of lately I have been getting a high amount of undesirable diacetyl in my brews. Could this be my carboy temperature? I maintain the temperature around the carboy at about 58F. Sometimes the yeast seems to take off very rapidly dispite this. Please help!! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 10:25:18 -0600 From: DBURKE at smtpgate.tnrcc.texas.gov Subject: Lager Yeast Lag Time I've searched the archives, but I haven't really found an answer to this question, so I'm going to post it to the wisdom of the HBD. I recently brewed an Oktoberfest style, part extract, part mash, and pitched a Wyeast 2178 Lager yeast blend without a separate starter. The yeast was fresh and the packet swelled vigorously. I am trying to maintain lager fermentation temperatures for the first time, and after pitching I took the whole batch down to about 48 F. It has been three days now and there is no activity from the yeast. I did find evidence in the archives AGAINST starting these yeasts warm and then cooling them down, so I've tried to maintain the cold temperatures continuously since pitching. Question is, will this yeast go ahead and start? I expected that lag times would be longer given the cold temperature, but since this is my first truly cold lager, I don't have a baseline to judge by. My homebrew shop said "Oh, take it out and let it warm up, and it'll get going." This is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. And as someone said the other day, I don't want to relax, and I am worrying! Mostly about infection in the meantime. I've gotten enough other bad advice from CP that the old RDWHAHB is starting to ring a little stale as well... Thanks, Dan Dburke at smtpgate.tnrcc.texas.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 11:41:14 EST From: BarryM <BarryM at silverplatter.com> Subject: straws / fermentap "replica" I'd like to point out the value of those ribbed straws that come with 32oz screw-top water bottles. I push one in the outlet of my cooler (it fits perfectly -- no leaks) and bend it up and hook the cap end under the cooler's handle. I then boil my sparge water and throw it in the cooler; by the time I finish mashing, the temp is just right, and I uncap the straw, lower it to the mash-tun, and swirl it around. I use the same straw as a siphon starter. I push it in the low end of my siphon and begin sucking; when the beer comes down, I pull out the straw and direct the siphon into the carboy/bottling bucket. This versatile straw was a key component of my hand-crafted Fermentap, which I made as follows: * carboy, with handle * orange two-tubed carboy cap * racking cane * two lengths of tubing * airlock * string * one of the aforementioned straws 1. Place the cap on the carboy. 2. Push the straight end of the racking cane through the larger tube on the cap, to the bottom of the carboy. 3. Attach one length of tubing to the curved end of the racking cane. Stick the airlock into the free end of the tubing. 4. Attach second length of tubing to the smaller tube on the carboy cap. Stick the ribbed straw into the free end of the tubing. 5. Remove the cap and put a batch of beer in the carboy. 6. Replace cap and tie it down tight with string, using the carboy handle as an anchor. 7. Invert the carboy, keeping both tubes above beer-level. (A bar stool without a seat works well.) 8. "Tie the tubes" above beer level, to the carboy (or back of barstool.) 9. Once fermentation kicked in, CO2 bubbled through the racking cane and out the airlock. To rack to the secondary, I simply lowered the tube with the straw, let the muck run out, and then fed it into another carboy. (Needless to say, I made a "dry" run with water beforehand.) BarryM in (well, near) Boston. Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Mar 95 10:48:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Brewers of South Suburbia Competition Results Here are the results from the 1995 Brewers of South Suburbia Homebrew Competition (average score in parentheses). Please note, that in some cases lower scores are listed for higher ranking beers -- this is because there were two flights for the style and a "second round" without scoring was used to determine the winners from to top beers in each "first round" flight. Altogether there were 187 entries. The caterories were adjusted because some of the initial categories received more beers than expected and others received less than expected. For example, "Barleywines and Strong Ales" had 19 entries! There were also 7 Imperial Stouts which were broken out of the Stout category, leaving 11 non-Imperials. Barleywines 1st Al Korzonas (37) 2nd Chuck Wettergren (29.5) 3rd Mike Montgomery (29.5) Strong Ales 1st Chris Kaufman (41) 2nd Rich Larsen (33.5) 3rd Mike Rivard (32.5) Belgian and French Ales 1st Al Korzonas (42) 2nd Rich Larsen (40.5) 3rd Steven Ford (32.5) Brown Ales 1st Tom and Luanne Fitzpatrick (40) 2nd Dave Lubertozzi (39) 3rd Tom and Luanne Fitzpatrick (38.75) American Pale Ales 1st Bob Ward/Jamie Wika (35) 2nd Mike Montgomery (33) 3rd Terry Murphree/Mike Pezan (32.5) English Pale Ales 1st Ted O'Neal (34.66) 2nd Al Korzonas (32) 3rd Pete Train (30.33) English Bitters and Scottish Ales 1st John Dalton (33.5) 2nd Charles Woods (36.5) 3rd Gary Hauser (39) Porters 1st Roger Clark (36.66) 2nd John Dalton (38.66) 3rd Gary Hauser (39.5) Stouts (non-Imperial) 1st Mike Pezan (38.66) 2nd Mike Rivard (24.5) 3rd Paul DiPierro (31.5) Imperial Stouts 1st Robert Wikstrom (33.66) 2nd Mike Kowal/Mike Frost (29.66) 3rd Ken McManus (26.66) Bocks and Dark Lagers 1st John Dalton (40.5) 2nd Steven & Paula Stacy/Richard Hall (36.5) 3rd Al Korzonas (36) Pilsners, German Pale Lagers and Pale American Beers 1st Jeff Renner (37.5) 2nd Roger Clark (34) 3rd Russel Mast (29.5) Vienna, Oktoberfest and Maerzen 1st Tom & Luanne Fitzpatrick (41) 2nd Mike Rivard (35.5) 3rd Mike Rivard (27.33) German Ales 1st Chris Kaufman (38.5) 2nd Bill Siel (38.75) 3rd Len Bergonia (34.5) German Wheat Beers 1st Thomas Stolfi (38.75) 2nd Chris Kaufman (35.5) 3rd Mike Brennan (34.5) Fruit Beers 1st Larry Opiela (34) 2nd Mike Brennan (33) 3rd Roger Clark (30) Herb Beers 1st Tim Artz (37.5) 2nd David Gray (33) 3rd Chris Patterson (32.5) Specialty and Smoked Beers 1st Len Bergonia (35.5) 2nd Robert Wikstrom (33) 3rd Tom Keith (32) Meads 1st Tim Reiter (38) 2nd Tim Reiter (34.5) 3rd Thomas Stolfi (33.5) Ciders 1st Al Korzonas (36.5) 2nd Not Awarded /* all the rest of the ciders * 3rd Not Awarded * had scores below 25. */ Best of Show 1st Chris Kaufman (Strong Scotch Ale) 2nd Bob Ward/Jamie Wika (American Pale Ale) 3rd Tom & Luanne Fitzpatrick (American Brown Ale) 4th Al Korzonas (Trappist-Other: Orval) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1693, 03/30/95