HOMEBREW Digest #1694 Fri 31 March 1995

Digest #1693 Digest #1695

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Aaah! Coriander!! / Vienna ("Palmer.John")
  Big and H U G E !!!! (uswlsrap)
  First Batch (" Robert Bloodworth                            ZFBTO    - MT0054")
  Re:Pre-cooking Ingredients (ALKinchen)
  Racking, Dry Hopping and the like (Rob Emenecker)
  Moravian Barley (ELQ1)
  Brewpubs in SF and Tokyo ("Penn, Thomas")
  using unmalted wheat in extract recipes ("Lee A. Kirkpatrick"                       )
  Starting with UNMALTED grains? Dextrose? (kevin)
  oxygen solubility/low OG/coriander thread/Zima? (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Wort oxygenation ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  Little Rock????? (Ron Raike)
  Cookers (Matthew Robert Koster)
  All extract brewing... (" Patrick G. Babcock")
  ibu formula- home production of "hop extracts" (PGILLMAN)
  Milwaukee, Wisconsin brewpubs (Jonathan Albrecht ph3187)
  honey beers (PGILLMAN)
  Too much gypsum! (john shearer)
  Cancel (LEEPRUITT)
  Hops, Siphoning, Brewcap (JOHNMAJ)
  Re: How do you say "Wit" (R.M. Bijl )
  RE: Northwest LME's (Chris Cooper)
  Re: Zima, what is it? ("Jim Fitzgerald")
  Beer tasting tour in Europe (John  W Shuman)
  Pyramid Apricot Ale (larry.carden)
  Venturi ("pratte")
  Berturi and Venoolie ("Lee C. Bussy")
  Hoptech Shipping Problems (Chuck McLellan)
  Re: Rauchbier Round-up (bickham)
  Stuck Fermentations (John DeCarlo              )
  Mill drives (Dick)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 29 Mar 1995 08:46:11 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Aaah! Coriander!! / Vienna Hi Friends, Well Kirk, I hope you are proud of yourself! You have indeed resurrected the Coriander Quest. }:] I will try to let everyone in on the joke. Last Fall, Zymurgy published an article by ??, on (Some beer style, Oktoberfest?) in which the author stated that Coriander was the magic ingredient for achieving that extra Malty Character that everyone strives for. Well, then Chuck and Bob and a few others posted to the HBD that "the secret was out", this had been their magic ingredient for ALL of their beer styles, etc. It ran for a couple weeks, before someone else posted, saying to quit pulling newbies legs. The above recollection is very hazy and names have been inserted where convenient, but that was the gist of it. It was a case of a published overstatement being blown out of proportion for the fun of it, but a lot of people ended up taking it seriously. Too bad it wasn't Spruce Essence instead of Coriander. :) ** In other news, I have had a couple emails from people wanting to know what my secret is in winning 2 different contests in the Vienna Category. Well, It was the same beer, which does mean that it was a Good beer I suppose. Ironically enough, it was the beer that Froze during lagering last Christmas and the one for which I wrote the parody of "Twas the Night Before Christmas". The beers recipe came straight from George's book, Vienna/Marzen/Oktoberfest, and was the Graf Style Vienna recipe. The Graf Style Vienna is the Mexican adaptation of the Vienna Style, and is most closely exemplified by Dos Equis and the darker Negra Modelo, which I was shooting for. I used Liberty and Saaz hops when I made it. The lagering was finished using that treacherous refrigerator as a passive cold box and Ice blocks. For those of you wanting to lager without an extra refrig or freezer, I seriously suggest building an insulated box and using blocks of ice to control the temperature. Its amazing how well it worked. I only had to change the ice twice in six weeks and even then it had only melted by 1/4. As a techoweenie I tend to forget that simpler is often better and you dont need an alpine cave to lager in. John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P johnj at primenet.com Huntington Beach, California Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 11:50:16 EST From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: Big and H U G E !!!! Get those Barley Wines, Imperial Stouts, Bocks, Doppels, Eisbocks, Old Ales, IPAs, and, yes, even Pilseners (style of last year's BOS) ready to go. In fact, just about any style goes except Ordinary Bitters, Berliner Weisses, Milds, et cetera (Save those for Ann Arbor's First Annual Small and Tiny competition!)--if it's a beer (no cider, mead, or sake) with an O.G. of at least 1.050, it's eligible for the Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild's Ninth Annual Big and HUGE HWBTA-sanctioned homebrew competition, May 13 at Angelic Brewing Company, Madison, Wisconsin. Entry packets will be going out by the second week of April, with our April newsletter. If you've previously requested forms, fear not, you're on the list and you'll get them. If you want to email another request just to make sure, that's fine. Each AHA-registered Midwestern club will receive the packet, plus clubs from outside our region if we have a newsletter exchange with them. If you're in one of those clubs and want to enter, be sure to badger the person who picks up the club mail to make sure you have a chance to copy the forms (or just send a request to me directly). If your club doesn't automatically receive our mailings, be sure to ask to be added to the list. Some of you out there may notice that we've gone with AHA sanctioning in the past, but not this time. As you know, something happened since the initial announcement of this competition. The HWBTA sanctioning this time around is a response to the situation that the AHA created by withdrawing from the BJCP. Our competition comes less than one month after the effective date of the AHA pullout. As far as we know, in May there will still be only one judge certification program, the BJCP, and it will have one remaining co-sponsor of the two original co-sponsors, the HWBTA. Given the uncertainty, we thought it best to switch to HWBTA-sanctioning. But back to the substance of the competition. The BIG AND HUGE is a competition for those big-hearted, full-bodied, high gravity brews. Best of Show receives the coveted Woolly Mammoth plaque and other wonderful prizes. The Big and Huge categories--Big Ales, Huge Ales, Big Lagers, and Huge Lagers--can be thought of as "mini-BOS's," from which the Woolly Mammoth beer will be chosen. Winners in the Big and HUGE categories will receive BIGHUGE ribbons and brewing ingredients. (BTW, Big=1.050's and Huge >=1.060) This year, to accommodate the increasing numbers of entries, we will also be giving new awards to beers that place in the more traditional _style_ categories that attract more than 5 entries per style. Entries are due May 6. Entrants who will be attending the competition and wish to bring their beers in the day of the show can do so if they preregister by sending the paperwork and fees by the regular entry deadline. An entry is three bottles and $4.50 ($4 for >=5 entries)/$3 for MHTG members. After the competition, a compilation of all the winning recipes will be made available to entrants for a nominal fee. See the packet for complete details. JUDGES JUDGES JUDGES.... If you'd like to judge in this Hugely enjoyable event, send a note to me or to judge director Steve Klafka (steven.klafka at njackn.com) If there is sufficient interest among the out-of-town judges, we may arrange for a post-event tour of one of the Madison-area craft brewers. Snailmailers: MHTG, P.O. Box 1365, Madison, WI 53701-1365 Now go have a beer, Bob Paolino / Disoriented in Badgerspace / uswlsrap at ibmmail.com - ---THE INTERNET: Hardwiring the neurons of the global brain:--- One geek at a time.... - --------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 11:57:55 EST From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9 at ibmmail.com> Subject: First Batch Did it last night, my first batch of real Reinheitsgebot homebrew. A Dunkelweizen with a traditional double decoction mash. Only the Germans could come up with such a ridiculously complicated way to mash. I wanted to brew on the weekend, but that package of Weihenstephan Wyeast which a friend had brought me from the states didn't look pregnant yet and I had to wait til Tuesday after work before the little guys got over their jet lag. The recipe is adapted from Gillian Graftons recent posting on the uk-brewers digest. 7 lb Dark Wheat malt (15) 3 lb Dark munich malt (20) 2 lb Pale malt (3) 1 oz Brewers Gold (5,6% AA) I'm brewing in a 27-28 liter Weck stainless electric canning cooker with an 1800 watt heater and a very nice thermostat. The thermostat is near the heating coil, so adequate stirring of the mash is important when adding heat. I'll probably try using some sort of false bottom next time to avoid scorching. I like this vessel, because I can do the boil on the balcony of our appartment and avoid smelling up the house. I heated 13 liters of my preboiled tap water to about 60?C and added the grain and rested at 53-54 C for 20 minutes. Took 6 liters of the mash and heated it to 72 C and held for 30 minutes at this temperature, then I boiled the decoction for 15 minutes. Upon returning this to the main mash I got a temperature of about 63 C. This was adjusted to 65-66 C and held for 35 minutes. I boiled another 6 liter portion of the mash for 15 minutes. Returning this to the main mash gave me about 69-70 C. The mash was warmed to 70-71 C with another 45 minute rest. (By now it's going on 11pm and I haven't even sparged yet!) I used a 6 gal bucket with a grain bag and a spigot to sparge, using the cooker to heat and thermostat the sparge water to about 70?C. I siphoned the sparge water onto the grain bed using a collander to distribute the flow of water. After sparging to about 20 liters total of wort, the sparge runnings were still at 1.010. I sparged with an additional 6 liters of water and squeezed the last bit of juice out of the grain with the grain bag. I got about 27 liters of wort at 1.042 (25 pt/lb/gal) The crush may have been too coarse, too many whole grains. I boiled the wort for 120 min with the hops in the whole time, leaving 1 or 2 plugs for the last 10 min of the boil. There was some great hot break during the boil (egg drop soup) which dissolved again later. Halfway through the boil I noticed that although I had a nice rolling boil, my volume wasn't reducing much. I threw in 2 bottlecaps as boiling stones and the thing started to take off. Hanging a secondary immersion heater in the boiling wort gave an additional push and allowed me to drive off about 4 liters of liquid during the last 45 min of the boil. I cooled the wort using a homemade copper immersion chiller with a secondary coil in an ice water bath to lower the temperature of the cooling water, The wort was cooled to 25 C in about ten minutes. The wort was siphoned into the fermenter with a copper raking cane and a stainless steel scouring pad as a hop filter (both sterilized in the boil). This worked very well at removing the hops, but there was quite a bit of cold break in the wort. I probably should have let this settle out more before transferring to the primary. I ended up with about 23 liters of 1.052 OG wort which has a pleasant brown color. I salvaged another good liter of wort from the dregs for yeast starters. This is currently in the fridge till I can freeze it for future use. I figure I can boil it and sterilize it the next time I need some wort. After cleaning up the kitchen it was going on 4 am and I was beat. The next time will definately be easier. In retrospect, I judiciously sterilized everything that came into contact with the cooled wort, that was good. Unfortunately, I was a little less than careful about HSA and sparge temperature. I also didn't mash out as the pH of my mash was only about 6 and I was worried about tannin extraction. Although I remembered the pH paper, I'd forgotten to bring home the lactic acid from the lab to adjust the pH into the optimum range. This was my very first personal batch of homebrew, although I've participated (watched) a couple of extract brews. All in all, I'm not displeased with the process, and proud as hell that it appears to have worked so far. Many thanks for all the tips from ya'll here on the digest. I'd be interested in any comments or suggestions from you more experience brewers out there. Posts like this one describing the nuts and bolts of a batch were a big help to me and I hope that you also feel that the extra bandwidth is justified. Prost, Bob Bloodworth Cologne PS: Just to make those of the infamous Boston Beer Works hop deal jealous. A hop salesman here rounded up some samples for me. A half pound each of really fresh Tettnanger, Saaz and Hersbruecker hops, as well as about 200g of Northern brewer hop pellets from Holland with 15% AA! The cost, a bottle of good Cabernet. Sometimes it's not bad being the only homebrewer in town. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 12:25:13 -0500 From: ALKinchen at aol.com Subject: Re:Pre-cooking Ingredients In HBD 1698, Michael writes >The thread on Wit (NOT Wit!) bier and the subsequent responses >of people precooking their unmalted wheat or flaked wheat (or >any other grain, for that matter) brings up a question. >At what temp and for how long do you cook them? After they are >cooked do you just proceed with your usual mashing procedure >(eg. protein rest, saccharification, mash-out) or would your >mashing process change somewhat? >FWIW, I am not a paste-eater ....... When using cereal adjuncts, they must be pre-cooked to liberate the starch for the enzymes in the mash. Add the equivalent of 10% by weight crushed BARLEY MALT to yourcereal pot, preferably a 6-row or high diastatic power 2-row pale malt. You could also use the amylase enzymes that some of the homebrew shops have. On its way to a boil, the cereal will be partially gelatinized and solubilized. This will help keep the porridge from becoming a gooey viscous mass. Cook until done. The cereal should be soft and mealy, not hard or grainy. Maybe 10 minutes. Be careful not to scorch it. Add to the mash. The mash schedule will depend on the beer. You usually are concerned only with the starch fraction and not the protein of the adjunct. ALK Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 12:28:00 PST From: Rob Emenecker <robe at cadmus.com> Subject: Racking, Dry Hopping and the like In response to Thomas Aylesworth's reply to Jeff in HBD 1692... > At that point, you can, if you want, use a secondary, but it isn't > necessary. I've decided that for most ales, there is little advantage to > using a secondary, unless you are dry hopping (which your recipe doesn't > call for). If you use a secondary, leave it in there for a week or so. If > you don't, leave it in the primary for another 2-3 days after the air lock > is down to 1 bubble per minute. Being a neophyte homebrewer (still using extract based recipes, only a primary fermenter and ale yeasts), several questions have come-up since I have followed the digest. For the collective intelligence out there (G), is there any benefit to racking into a secondary (my primary is a 5-gal carboy) if I am not dry hopping? Would my brew benefit from additional conditioning in a secondary? My current batch is happily bubbling away after 5 days of active fermentation. Or, should I just take the blow-off off and pop a regular airlock onto the primary? I also wanted to add some notes to the comment from Kinney Baughman that was a response to Eric... > You're using an all-extract recipe, Eric. You should *always* steep some > kind of grain in the brewing water as it comes to a boil when using > extracts. There are 10 lovibond crystal malts on the market to use for the > lighter colored beers, darker lovibond crystals for amber and dark beers. > Adding these grains will impart a much needed grain character and mouth > feel to extract based beers. With my very first batch of homebrew I did not steep any specialty grains (Crystal or otherwise). The brew had a noticeably *thin* and watered taste to it. Though I never made the connection before now... every brew I have made since then has always had some amount of specialty grain in it (even as little as 1/3 lb of crystal to give better head). From the second batch on, I have never had a repeat of the *thin* brew syndrome. I had always attributed this to a beginner's error (well... well...) +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ : "There are only two things in life that oooooo : : we can ever be certain of... _oooooooo : : ...taxes and beer!" /_| oooooo : : Cheers, // | ooo : : Rob Emenecker \\_| oo | : : remenecker at cadmus.com (Rob Emenecker) \_| o| : : Cadmus Journal Services, Inc. |______| : +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 9:46:50 PST From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: Moravian Barley Moravian Barley, Grows at altitude, so it malts up better, so the new Coors ad on TV states via one non-yuppie type. Anybody ever heard of Moravian Barley other than the Coors ad? Not that I want to make a Coors clone, just curious. Ed Quier ELQ1 at PGE.COM 707-444-0718 Brewing Live! from behind the Redwood Curtain, Eureka! Ca. Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Mar 1995 13:13:58 -0500 From: "Penn, Thomas" <penn#m#_thomas at msgw.vf.mmc.com> Subject: Brewpubs in SF and Tokyo I will be visiting the San Francisco Bay area and then traveling on to Tokyo/Yokohama. Any recommendations regarding brewpubs or beer-related must-sees (Besides Anchor Brewing, of course). Private email is fine. Thanks Tom Penn Bordentown, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 13:41 EST From: "Lee A. Kirkpatrick" <WPSSLAK%WMMVS.BITNET at VTBIT.CC.VT.EDU> Subject: using unmalted wheat in extract recipes As I'm about to embark on my first attempt at a Belgian wit beer, I've been following the various threads about coriander and other ingredients with interest. I still have two questions, however: (1) A variety of posts have mentioned using some amount of unmalted wheat (or oats) in a recipe, but all of these seem to concern their use in all-grain brewing, not in extract recipes. What's the best way to use oats or unmalted wheat in an extract beer? Can whole or cracked wheat be steeped like other adjunct grains? One recipe I've seen calls for simply dissolving a quarter-pound of whole wheat flour in some warm water and adding it to the wort after the boil. This seems fishy to me somehow. Is there a better way? (2) Is there any consensus at all about when to add coriander seed? I've seen all of the following suggested: for the entire boil; for the last few minutes of the boil; both of the above (half and half); after the boil before adding to fermenter; and in the secondary (like dry-hopping). Do all of these work? I don't mind experimenting but I also wouldn't mind ensuring that the first experiment was a success. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks! - --Lee Kirkpatrick wpsslak at wmmvs.cc.wm.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 11:58:33 -0700 (MST) From: kevin at wheels.aar.com Subject: Starting with UNMALTED grains? Dextrose? I am fairly new to homebrewing - and I'm on my third extract based batch right now. Previously I have ignored info on brewing beer from grains, but after seeing the prices of grain ($5/50lbs of barley...), the idea is becoming appealing :) Looking at the info on grain brewing from ftp.sierra.edu, it looks like it ASSUMES you will be starting with malted barley. But what about starting with the raw, unmalted grain? This leads me to several questions: 1) Is there anyone out there who has started with the UNMALTED grains, and malted them themselves? I would like to hear from someone who has first hand knowledge in this area. I would also be interested in hearing about using unmalted grains, and using enzymes to convert the starches to sugars. 2) What other grains can be malted from raw grain, and what are the proceedures? 3) What kind of relationship is there between raw grain, and dry weight malt extract produced? I've read 75%, but I'm not sure if they are talking the same relationship I want to know. For example, will 10 lbs of raw unmalted barley, ultimately produce 7.5 lbs of dry malt extract (if it were dried?)? 4) Unrelated: Does anyone know of a place where you can purchase dextrose (aka corn sugar & glucose) in 50lb or 100lb quantities in the US? The 90 cent/lb price at the local brew store seems a little high to me. I used to buy it for half that amount (i.e. $2.5 / 5 lbs) in LA. The idea of malting my own grain looks possible this Summer, since I live in nearly a desert area. We have a deck which gets HOT during the Summer, and a kiddie wading pool would be nice to dry the malt in :) I live west of Pueblo, CO BTW. Thanks! Kevin - -- Kevin Hass WB0DPN ! ! PGP public key by request via email kevin at wheels.aar.com ! Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Mar 95 13:48:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: oxygen solubility/low OG/coriander thread/Zima? I'm no expert on this, but faintly recall something which might spark an expert's memory: Nitrogen is used by some industrial brewers to scrub DMS and other undesirables out of wort. Recall in Dave's post, he said: >Of more importance is that there is no reason that air can't be used to >reach saturation if the gas is sufficiently soluble - this level of >saturation (40.89 ppm) doesn't care how you get there. Ahhh, but if the nitrogen scrubs out other dissolved gasses, wouldn't it also scrub out dissolved oxygen, no? Could this be the reason for the solubility of oxygen from air being different from the solubility of oxygen from pure O2? *** Dave writes: >Per SUDS 3.1, the ESBs OG should have been 1.054 and the >Barleywines should have been 1.098, both, I feel, reasonable values. >Upon brewing the ESB, the OG I measured was appx. 1.035. Figuring that >I just measured wrong, I brewed the Barleywine and the OG measured at >appx. 1.055! You most likely mixed a partial boil with some water already in the fermentor and then did not mix sufficiently. This is a very common mistake among partial boilers. The heavy wort fell right to the bottom and only partially mixed with the water, giving you a lower than expected OG. *** The coriander thread was started by Chuck Cox who, with the help of a couple of others, was poking fun at the "magical" properties claimed by the zealous author of the Coriander article in the Special Ingredients Special Issue of Zymurgy. *** I believe that Zima is actually beer that has been filtered so tightly that even the colour has been filtered out of it. Then they add lemon-lime flavour to this insipid fluid and force-carbonate it. I do believe there is a little bitterness... I recall it tasting like a Vodka-Tonic with a little lemon-lime added. BTW look closely at "wine coolers." Many are malt-based, so they are probably made the same: ultra-filtered "beer" with flavour put back later. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 14:04:06 -0500 From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu> Subject: Wort oxygenation There has been alot of discussion on methods to increase the amount of dissolved oxygen in chilled wort prior to yeast pitching. With few exceptions, the consensus seems to be when wort is aerated with air, the best level of dissolved oxygen is on the order of 8-10 ppm. When pure O2 is used the dissolved oxygen can approach 40ppm. I am not considering the effects of wort gravity. A small group of members of our homebrew club recently took a tour of the Anheuser-Busch research brewery. This is a rather fantastic facility that makes several thousand barrels of beer annually that is mostly destined for the St. Louis sewers because of "union rules". Beer brewed by these "scientists" cannot be sold or distributed by AB. In this facility many controlled experiments are done to test hop, barley, and malt consistency. These brewers are certainly capable of make excellent beers of nearly any style. Unfortunately, their marketing researchers end up prevailing and AB sells few beers that deviate significantly from the American Light Lager category. Anyway, our tour guide (a brewing chemist) explained that AIR is the preferred gas to introduce oxygen into their chilled wort prior to pitching. He said that pure OXYGEN would certainly get a higher dissolved oxygen level but that comes at a price. Dissolved O2 levels on the order of 8-10ppm will be sufficient for yeast respiration. As you go above that level, the dissolve O2 levels begin to have harmful effects on the taste beer. He didn't say exactly why this would be, but at high levels of O2 you may get OXIDATION of wort components and you may actually harm the yeast. Too much oxygen in the environment is a bad thing. Even in medicine, we never use 100% oxygen because of the damage it would cause in the human lung. It's also a very dangerous gas to handle in its pure form. Can you say EXPLOSION? I hope this provides some useful information to the hbd readers. JEFF M. MICHALSKI michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 15:11:06 -0500 From: Ron Raike <ron at mail.creol.ucf.edu> Subject: Little Rock????? A friend is travelling and was willing to bring back some good beer. Could someone in the Little Rock area let me know of a good beer store to smuggle some micro beer back to Florida??? Any 22ozers available?? Any suggestions for local brewpubs??? I tried the publist private email please: ron at mail.creol.ucf.edu ....... thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 14:29:52 -0600 (CST) From: Matthew Robert Koster <matthewk at csd.uwm.edu> Subject: Cookers Hi, I found a $50 propane tri-pod burner which I think runs off propane at a local homebrewing store. This thing would suit my needs but I was wondering if you can use these things indoors? Is it at all harmful? Will my cats be the first to go? Or should I use pigeon detecters just to be sure. I got mixed responses from the newsgroup and am now more confused. If propane is bad, what other kinds of cookers can I use. I want to move my brewing from my kitchen to basement. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mk... +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ + Matt Koster - Milwaukee, WI - matthewk at csd.uwm.edu + + WWW: http://www.uwm.edu/~matthewk/ + +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 16:02:49 EST From: " Patrick G. Babcock" <usfmchql at ibmmail.com> Subject: All extract brewing... In HBD #1652, Kinney Baughman responds to Eric's watery-tasting beer quandary.. . >> (SNIP) You're using an all-extract recipe, Eric. You should *always* >> steep some kind of grain in the brewing water as it comes to a boil when >> using extracts. (SNIP) This is not bad advice (don't boil them, though!), but it is _hardly_ a requirement. And, since many of us have brewed all-extract recipes WITHOUT this step and without watery tasting beer as a result, I must say it does not address the basic problem being related - a watery tasting beer. His recipe is adequate for malt, assuming 5 gallon final volume, and assuming the base malt (Alexander's) isn't some unknown ultra light variety ;-) Since I read no complaints about body and head retention (just a 'watered down flavor') it is possible that the flavor is that typical of water boiled in a tea kettle - mineral precipitates remain and lend that 'boiled water' flavor. This flavor may be strong enough to overpower the malt character of the recipe. IMO, this flavor is minimized by preboiling, cooling, and racking the brew water to be used; or by using distilled water. Just remember to check mineral content, pH for the yeast guys, etc. Maybe I'm way off-base here - and you'll all tell me if I am ;-) - but that's what I think is going on. I've had similar experiences when I was too lazy to pre-boil my brewing water; particularly with lagers. YMMV, I'm not a chemist, etc., etc., etc. I would appreciate any comment on this premise, as I've been operating under it for a VERY long time... Brew On! Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock usfmchql at ibmmail.com (313)33-73657 (V) (313)59-42328 (F) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 13:23:28 -0800 (PST) From: PGILLMAN at POMONA.EDU Subject: ibu formula- home production of "hop extracts" i have been experimenting with boiling hops in a closed container for varying periods of time. so far i have notice that i get decent bittering as well as aroma and flavor (i keep the container covered to retain as many of the aroma oils as possible)- what i want to know is if any one can give me a formula that allows the measurement of IBU's if i know: the ph, density, boil length (rolling the whole time, with whole hops) and AA% and Ozs. of hops- i like what i seen (tastes great in a steam beer;-), but would like to be able to determine IBU's too- thanks phil-pgillman at pomona.edu ps i got the idea from reading old recipes (19th cen)- but am wondering why this idea is no longer common usage aside from the fact that u need another pot and burner- pps- someone asked the zima question again, and i refer you to the jan/feb issue of brewing tech. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 16:32:37 EST From: albrecht at bns102.bng.ge.com (Jonathan Albrecht ph3187) Subject: Milwaukee, Wisconsin brewpubs I'll be traveling to Milwaukee, Wisconsin next week and am looking for info on brewpubs, microbreweries, and/or good watering holes. Thanks in advance. Jon Albrecht ________________________________________________________ Jonathan Albrecht (albrecht at bng.ge.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 13:37:16 -0800 (PST) From: PGILLMAN at POMONA.EDU Subject: honey beers there are two possible modes of action that i can recomend- 1) use a yeast that has low attenuation, and lots of honey (1lb/gal.?) as well as your usual malt, add the honey in your secondary, and hop for the best- 2) after a brief secondary rest, siphon off of the yeast yet again, add the honey, and drop the temp as fast as you can to close to freezing (this won't work with a lager yeast) in the hope that you can "shock" the yeast into dormancy- what every you do, keep this brew cold till serving (ie carbonate artificially- and a third i just thought of- add enough honey so that the yeast is unable to ferment it all (ie alc of 8% or higher, with a low tolerance yeast) also, the less you boil the honey, and the stronger flavor it has, the more flavor will carry- these are all just ideas, so if any one tries any of them pls let me know thanks- phil pgillman at pomona.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 17:09:12 PST From: jds at equinox.ShaysNet.COM (john shearer) Subject: Too much gypsum! Greetings to the NET. I am an amateur homebrewer that has just started formulating his own recipes. Well, I've run into a little problem. I brewed a batch of light apple ale (my own recipe, of course) this weekend, and it's sitting in the primary now. Here's my problem: after reviewing my recipe for logging purposes, I noticed that I inadvertantly added 2 'oz.' of gypsum instead of 2 'tsp.' I cringed at the thought of what monstrosity might be sitting in that bucket! :-( Anyway, assuming I have fairly soft water, can someone tell me what I can expect from my finished beer (basically, should I throw it away now and start over)? Anyone with some insight can either post directly to me, or post here for the benefit of other accident prone brewers. TIA jds Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 17:35:06 -0500 From: LEEPRUITT at aol.com Subject: Cancel Please cancel me. Cancel. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 21:40:38 -0500 From: JOHNMAJ at aol.com Subject: Hops, Siphoning, Brewcap Many people have said in the last few postings that when dry hoping their siphon tube becomes clogged. Also they all seem to be dry hopping in the secondary. I have been dry hopping right after the Krausen head falls, in the primary. I have been doing this for at least 100 batches, and have never had a problem. I think this is because when the yeast falls out of suspension it takes the hops with it. Although I have never done an inverted fermentation with it, I love the brewcap. When siphoning put your siphon tube though the brewcap. You can start your siphon about 1 inch above the trub in the fermenter, and only have to be at the very bottom for the last 30 seconds or so of siphoning. This will enable you to reduce the amount of trub transfered even more. If you are dry hopping in the secondary, try using gelatin two days before siphoning. The gelatin will settle to the bottom, and take the hops with it.The gelatin will also form a layer over them, making it almost impossible to suck them into you siphon tube. Now for a question of my own. I am an all grain brewer. I was using a mash lauter tun made out of a 47 qt cooler with a copper pipe false bottom. After using that for years, I made a new tun with several improvements. In this tun I used a new food grade PVC pipe for the false bottom. My question is when I was using the old Copper pipe system, my beers were markedly clearer (I.E. less Chill haze) than now with the new plastic pipe system. I have put a piece of cooper pipe in my last two mashes, and my beers are once again less hazy. Can anyone give me a reason for this? John Majetic No Snappy Sayings, Just trying to make good beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 04:48:30 +0100 From: R.M. Bijl <BIJL at schiphol.nl> Subject: Re: How do you say "Wit" Well, "wit" is, you probably already know, the Dutch (Flamish) word for "White". The correct pronounciation is as in 'witty'. Try to make the W to sound more flat. Come to Holland or Belgium for a demonstration! Proost! (cheers), Ruud Bijl Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 00:00:25 -0500 From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com> Subject: RE: Northwest LME's David Wright posted a question concerning experiences with Northwestern malt extracts and OG's. I have used Nortwestern LME/DME in several batches and here are the numbers from my notes: # of LME # of DME O.G. 9.3 1.0 1.075 6.0 1.038 6.0 1.0 1.044 6.0 1.0 1.046 Note; these were all 5.50 gal batches and all DME and LME was Northwestern. Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Where ever you go <-- ccooper at a2607.cc.msr.hp.com --> There you are <-- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 21:57:50 +0000 From: "Jim Fitzgerald" <jimfitz at netcom.com> Subject: Re: Zima, what is it? From: jwolf at penril.com > I'm sure this question has been asked before, so please forgive the > waste of bandwidth, but, WHAT THE HELL IS ZIMA (nasty stuff). Is it > grain alcohol added to artificially citrus-flavored carbonated water? Ed Westemeier, for whatever strange reason, took a good deal of his time (which he could have used better making a couple batches of real beer) to research this strange marval of modern day marketing in the January/Febuary issue of Brewing Techniques. He even goes as far as far as giving a detailed recipe to someone if they wanted to make it themselfs...maybe for a white elephant gift at christmas time or zomething...sorry for the pun, but the whole artical is written that way. I guess it is very interesting in some strange way to see what a good percentage of the beer buying market of the US will buy...or should I say fall for...I guess one could say that we have a very long way to go to educate the people of this country about real beer...GOD BLESS REAL BEER DRINKERS!!! Cheers! Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 23:59:06 -0800 From: shuey at halcyon.com (John W Shuman) Subject: Beer tasting tour in Europe I am organizing a beer tasting tour to Europe which will include the best spots in Belgium and Southern Germany, this of course includes the opening ceremonies of Oktoberfest in Munich. The group is called The Beer Lovers Travel Club and the goal is to make beer tasting travel a possibility for all connoisseurs interested in expanding their horizons. The trip is from Sep. 8 to Sep. 20. I would like to communicate with anyone who is interested in joining a tasting/brewery museum tour or who is an experienced traveler themselves with stories to tell. shuey at halcyon.com or (916) 244-6945 If you would like to know more about the trip we're taking. Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Mar 95 00:10:00 -0600 From: larry.carden at pscmail.ps.net Subject: Pyramid Apricot Ale I have been following the Pyramid Apricot Ale cloning thread with interest. I plan to clone it soon myself, since it's a really good summer beer, and my fiancee's favorite. The Pyramid Apricot is a *hefeweizen* with apricot added. As stated on the beer's label: "Pyramid Ales' unfiltered Hefeweizen, flavored with the natural essence of apricots, creates a strikingly unique and refreshing brew." This means the recipe would be about 50/50 barley/wheat malt (weizen), a small amount of low alpha hops (i.e. Hallertau), and weizen yeast, such as Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Wheat. Plus apricots. No need to filter, but avoid much noticeable fruit going into the bottles. When you look at a bottle of the Apricot Ale, you can see yeast and slight fruit sediment at the bottom. I made a raspberry red ale recently with 60 oz. (5 12-oz. bags) of frozen rasberries in the secondary fermenter. It's a great recipe I got from a kind brewing friend! That experience has convinced me to use real fresh or frozen fruit, steeped in just enough 160 - 170 F water for 15 min., and add to the secondary. That causes a moderate secondary kraeusening, which means you need room for it (I use a 6.5 gal. carboy with fermentation lock for 5 gal. fermentation), or a blow-off tube for a few days. What also could be delicious is a combination of the Celis White clone people have been writing about, plus apricots. So the Wyeast 3944 Belgian White Beer yeast might also be a good choice. Good luck, all! Larry in Englewood, CO Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 08:02:53 EST From: "pratte" <PRATTE at GG.csc.peachnet.edu> Subject: Venturi Keith, You say potaTO, I say poTATo. I think what we see is the difference between engineer and physicist. On my side, I had never heard of a Venturi "effect", only a Venturi tube, which is used to measure flow rates and to show cavitation due to pressure decreases. When we talk about pressure decreasing due to increased fluid speeds, we call that the Bernoulli effect (ex. the book "The Flying Circus of Physics"). I'll take your word for it that engineers call that the Venturi effect. Sorry for the misunderstanding. John P.S.: And I'll keep using exp(-i theta) and not exp(-j theta) :). ________________________________________________________________ Dr. John M. Pratte pratte at gg.csc.peachnet.edu Clayton State College Office (404)961-3674 Morrow, GA 30260 Fax (404)961-3700 ________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 06:52:15 +0000 From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Berturi and Venoolie Okay, this is giving me flashbacks...... Do I really need to know the name of the effect in order to make it work? :) - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 08:26:48 -0500 From: mclellan at wolfjaw.Kodak.COM (Chuck McLellan) Subject: Hoptech Shipping Problems In hbd 1693, Jay_Richards complains about problems with Hoptech, and asks if mail order is wothr it. Jay, I do a bit of mail order with various companies, including Hoptech. I have only had 2 orders from Hoptech, but both were complete and as advertised. I never paid for 3 day shipment. The deliveries usually arrived in 5 days. Other mail order I have used successfully includes Williams and Chicago Homebrewing. Chuck McLellan | Eastman Kodak Research Lab Eastman Kodak Co. | mclellan at kodak.com Rochester, NY 14650-1801 | Phone (716)722-4828 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 08:28:23 -0500 (EST) From: bickham at msc.cornell.edu Subject: Re: Rauchbier Round-up Timothy J. Dalton <dalton at subpac.enet.dec.com> asked: > Isn't this contest just for Bavarian-style rauchbier ? > Or is it open to other sorts of smoked beers ? Peat smoked malt and > beechwood smoked malt ar two very different creatures. > I was under the impression that it was solely for Bavarian Rauchbier, > and not for the other styles. (and yes, my rauch has been lagering for > a couple of months already ;-) I don't have the details yet, but my guess is that all subcategories of the smoked beer category will be eligible. I'll post any new information as soon as I hear anything. Auf ein neues, Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 08:43:43 EST From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org> Subject: Stuck Fermentations >Since your wort was all-malt, I don't think nutrients are your problem. Aren't you forgetting the study that showed some/many malt extracts lacking in such nutrients as FAN, so much so as to result in incomplete fermentations? This possibility should always be considered unless you really know the malt extract product well. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 08:43:39 -0500 From: Dick at ccgate.dragonsys.com Subject: Mill drives >I used a surplus motor from American Science and Surplus: >GE Minagear 30inch-pound gear motor, for $19.99. I'm an extract brewer thinking of making the leap to grain brewing, so I watch HBD for suggestions on equipment. I have noticed whenever grain mills are discussed their motors are usually rated in foot-pounds. It seems to me that if we are discussing torque, the unit should be pound-feet (or pound-inches), as a foot-pound is a unit of work, and would not make much sense unless we are talking work per unit time (power), which would be expressed in horsepower in the English system. A small point, perhaps, but technical accuracy is one of the strong points of HBD contributors, and why I enjoy getting it. Happy brewing, Rich Benedict (dick at ccgate.dragonsys.com) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1694, 03/31/95