HOMEBREW Digest #1987 Mon 18 March 1996

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: 2 day brew day (pbabcock.ford)
  Re: Alt Recipe correction (Algis R Korzonas)
  Electric calories in malt liquor give my honey a hangover. (Russell Mast)
  Re: Electric Brewing (Desmond Power)
  1st 10 gal batch questions (wirwin)
  Scotch Ale (Mike Urseth)
  European Beer Tour (CASteveB)
  Large fermenters (guym)
  Homebrew Digest (Darren Gaylor)
  Ft. Lauderdale Brewpubs (EKTSR)
  RE: distilled beverage ("Richard Okambawa")
  Wild yeast, <wild> yeast ("Richard Okambawa")
  RE: Fridge extension. ("Richard Okambawa")
  Stainless Mash Pot (John Mrazek)
  Fishy carboys, more wiring stuff, and Fementaps (HuskerRed)
  Lagering (A. J. deLange)
  Bass Ale Clone (Al Paglieri)
  distilling (PatrickM50)
  re: 2 day mashing ("John  Lifer, Jr.")
  Extracts & Adjuncts Query (William D Gladden )
  Figuring Final Gravity (KennyEddy)
  Yeast (Michael Coen)
  lager under pressure! ("Tracy Aquilla")
  Oak (Kit Anderson)

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:38:57 EST From: pbabcock.ford at e-mail.com Subject: Re: 2 day brew day Pat Babcock Internet: pbabcock.ford at e-mail.com Bronco Plant Vehicle Team - Body Construction Assembly Engineer Subject: Re: 2 day brew day Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Many, many, many, many people have been asking about two day brew days lately. The answer to your query is, simply, yes. Yes, you can extend the brew day over two days. Here are the conditions: 1.) Your sanitation/cleanliness MUST be impeccable. 2.) Your mash out must be of sufficient temperature and duration to denature your mash enzymes. 3.) Your sanitation/cleanliness MUST be impeccable. 4.) The storage conditions must inhibit any beasties that were in the wort or were introduced during the transfer to the storage vessel with which your sanitation/cleanliness was impeccable. You'll note SANITATION, SANITATION, SANITATION!!! The number-one risk to the method is infection. The number two risk is that the enzymes continue on during storage. Other than that? Have at it! Pat Babcock pbabcock at oeonline.com (I've got more internet IDs than a leopard has spots, but please: only reply to pbabcock at oeonline.com) Best regards, Patrick G. Babcock Michigan Truck Plant PVT Office (313)46-70842 (V) -70843 (F) 38303 Michigan Wayne,MI 48184 Pager: 313-238-1476 PROFS Page: page pbabcock from command line Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 10:38:30 CST From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: Re: Alt Recipe correction Mark-- Yesterday, I reviewed my best Duesseldorfer Altbier recipe and realized that my memory failed me. I will Cc this to the HBD. Note that when I brewed the recipe below, I fermented at 63F and it was a little too fruity. The Duesseldorfer Altbiers I tasted were a little fruity but not as fruity as this beer when fermented at 63 F with Wyeast #1338. The recipe for 5 gallons should be: 8.5# Munich malt (I used DeWolf-Cosyns, you can also use German malts) 0.75# DeWolf-Cosyns *Aromatic* malt 3 ounces of Spalt hops (4.1% AA, pellets, boiled 60 min in a hop bag) Wyeast #1338 Mash at 140 F for 30 minutes and then 156 F for 1 hour. Take 7.5 gallons of runnings and boil it down to 5.125. OG = 1.053 FG = 1.012 Use a big starter and ferment at 60 degrees F. The above hop rate is assuming no skimming or blowoff removal. Lager for four weeks at 40 degrees F. Before I go, let me explain the Aromatic malt. I used that in an effort to compensate for the fact that I was not going to do a decoction mash. DWC Aromatic malt is kind of a "dark Munich" and is about 25 Lovibond. I added it an effort to get a little more of that richness in the malt profile. I feel that it worked. If you were to actually do a decoction mash, I would just use 9 pounds of Munich malt. Prosit! Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:55:07 -0600 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Electric calories in malt liquor give my honey a hangover. > From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) > Subject: Malt Liquor/Carbonation/Hangovers/Heaters > > I believe, for example, that in Texas anything, be it > barleywine or bock, above a certain strength must be labeled "ale". And anything -not- above that strength cannot be labelled "ale", which is why Celis' Pale Ale is called a Pale Bock. It's an ale, but you can't call it that in Texas. fwiw, I've had several Weizens in Chicago labelled "Malt Liquor". > Greg also asks about hangover cures.... > Fructose.... I hadn't heard that one yet. I'll have to try it. Are there natural foods which are high in fructose? The best things for hangovers are usually "night before" things. Have some B-vitamins. The dregs from bottle-conditioned beer are full of'em. Drink a lot of water, and have a little food before going to bed. Aspirin before sleeping helps, too, even if you don't yet have a headache. This is probably covered a lot, but there are several sources of hangovers. Dehydration is a big one, and easy to 'cure', beforehand. Fusel alcohols are very hard to deal with. Vitamin B deficiency is another one like dehydration, and very important to deal with - most alcohol-related brain damage, both long and short term, is from vitamin B deficiency. Another thing, in the morning after, drinking a lot of fluids and peeing a lot are a real good idea. But, when you're dehydrated, be careful about drinking just water. When you get really dehydrated, water alone can dehydrate you further. I think it has something to do with osmotic pressure. Something with a little higher SG, like juice or non-diet soda or milk (if your highly lactose tolerant) can help. Or, water with a little food, if the food is soluble. I think a little bit of salt can help you retain water, too. (This might be getting into the "eye of newt" category here...) > From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> > Ethanol has 7 kcal/g, carbohydrates and proteins 4 kcal/g, and fats 9 > kcal/g. Dietary calories (abbrev. C) are actually kilocalories. How many grams of carbohydrate become how many grams of ethanol during fermentation? Also, I've always been a bit suspicious of the caloric content of alcohol. I know that it contains calories of energy, but is it energy that your body can use? For example, insoluble carbohydrates (dietary fiber, wood pulp, etc) have a caloric content, technically, but you can't use them, so they don't have any calories in a dietary sense. I don't think that we use none of the calories in alcohol, but I suspect we may use less than all of them. I welcome any correction on my suspicion. You notice how many of us have a beer gut, but no one ever gets a whiskey gut. Granted, we get more of the residual sugars than they do, but I know people who drink a lot more whiskey than I do beer, and they don't bulge like me. Maybe they exercise more? > From: mck at yar.cusa.com (Michael Kerns) > Subject: recipes > > With warm weather approaching, I was wondering if anyone out there had > extract recipes for steam beers or pale ales they would be willing to share. Try something Belgian, they ferment many ales warm. I'll send you a recipe in private e-mail. It's all-grain. > Subject: Electric elements, wiring All this talk of hooking a heater element to the connections on your stove or laundry chute. Um, this is not a real good idea. Your best bet is to build a seperate power supply for your heater element, with it's own transformer and it's own fuse. American Science and Surplus has tons of 120V - 240V transformers of various amperage rating. Also - if you haven't done electrical stuff before, find someone who has to help. (And, yeah, the 12 guage thing, don't forget that.) > From: Victor J Farren <wigwam at jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu> > Subject: Re:Help my beer is infected..Wayne Wight > > Your beer may not be infected. In fact, those little bubbles may > be the result of continuing fermentation. I am not familiar with the > recipie for Brown Ale, but if it contains slow fermenting sugars such as > honey, it may just be that it is still fermenting. I am brewing a mead Actually, the sugars in honey are pretty fast fermenting - meads ferment slowly due to lower nutrient levels and the Crabtree effect, I thought. But, you're right - his "infection" is probably not an infection. -R Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 14:52:22 -0330 From: Desmond Power <des at engr.mun.ca> Subject: Re: Electric Brewing >>>>>> "KennyEddy" == KennyEddy <KennyEddy at aol.com> writes: > > KennyEddy> For a typical household 120V circuit, the breaker will > KennyEddy> trip at about 15A. There are probably some 20A > KennyEddy> circuits scattered around; usually the wiring gauge is > KennyEddy> the same > >WHOA! Slow down! > >* A 20A circuit requires 12 gauge wire, while a 15A circuit requires >only 14 gauge (14 gauge is smaller than 12 gauge). DO NOT replace a >15A breaker with a 20A breaker without being SURE that the wire is the >right gauge *all the way* from the breaker panel to the outlet, AND >that all the switches and outlets on the circuit are rated for 20A >(most modern fixtures are). > >* Kitchen outlets, under *current* electric code, must be on 20A >circuits. This is good news. > >* A 15A circuit is only rated for 13A continuous load, although it >won't trip the breaker. > >* You should be able to get 1125W out of a 15A circuit. Heck, some >hair dryers are rated at 1500 W. Instead of messy around with your current electrical wiring and possibly screwing something up, why don't you just install a new 220 volt circuit that you can devote exclusively to your brewing. Most newer electrical boxes have empty slots for new circuit breakers and a 20 amp-220 volt breaker can be had for less than $20. These things are usually easily installed by someone who knows a bit about electrical installation, but if you are unsure of yourself, you should get someone in who knows what they are doing. A bit of 12 gauge wire and a 220 volt outlet and you have an exclusive setup in your basement for brewing. The downside to this would be the difficulty in installing this outlet in your kitchen (running the wires into the walls). However, if your basement ceiling (where your electrical panel is located) is not finished, it should be a simple operation to run the wiring into your kitchen. It isn't as hard as you might think. I have run cable connections up through the basement ceiling and into a wall in the kitchen in a similar manner. The hardest part was making the hole in the wall to put the utility box for the outlet (which wasn't that hard). By doing this, you can make sure that your 220 volt circuit is rated properly and you won't have to worry about burning down your house. ******************************************************************************* Desmond Power Northern Radar Systems Limited Box 23039 St. John's, Newfoundland A1B 4J9 Phone: (709) 739-4014 FAX: (709) 739-4514 E-mail: des at tera.engr.mun.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:04:50 -0700 From: wirwin at envisionet.net Subject: 1st 10 gal batch questions Dear collective: I recently decided that brewing 10 gal. batches would not be much more of a PITA than 5 gal. The jury is still out. I'm getting some kinda funny gravities as the fermentation proceeds. Your analysis and observations would be most welcome. The batch was a "hellesbier" ale. grain bill: 21.5# German Pilsner 5.0# German light Crystal (5.5L) 0.5# German Munich Calculated o.g. 1.076, Calculated f.g. 1.020 (Brewer's Assistant version 2.1) Water analysis: Ca++ 32 ppm, Mg++ 7 ppm, SO4-- 51 ppm, Cl- 22 ppm All grains milled with a "Valley Mill" at approximately 0.040" gap. Good grist. I used 30 Qts. water (1.11:1 ratio). Strike temp at 130f = mash at 124f for 30 min. Removed 3 gal of thick mash. raised to boil over 30 min. Boiled 15 min. Retrurned to mash tun (10 gal. Gott with a Phil's Phalse bottom). Mash temp 146f. Added 2 tsp. Amylase enzyme. 2 hour rest (final mash temp 140f). Removed 3 gal. thick mash. Heated to boil over 30 min. Boiled 15 min. Returned to mash tun. Mash temp 156f. Added 2 tsp. Amylase enzyme. 2 hour rest. Final mash temp 152f. Good Iodine test. No mash out. Recirculated first runnings until clear (approx. 1.5 gal.) Sparge with 170f water. Collected 34 qts. first runnings 1.092 gravity. Collected 12 qts. last runnings 1.032 gravity. Combined first and last runnings. Gravity 1.076. Raised volume to 12 gal. Split boil, 8 gal. on propane burner and 4 gal on gas stove top (10,000 btu). 60 min. boil. Re-combined boiled wort. Force chilled to 64f. Split the wort to 2 6.5 gal. carboys. topped off to 5 gal. each with boiled/cooled water. Aerated each carboy in parallel for 45 min. with aquarium stone setup (air not O2). Initial gravity in each carboy 1.082. (WOW) Pitched each carboy with 3 qt. starter of Wyeast 1007 German Ale (2nd generation). Placed both carboys in garage overnight (50f). Found 2" cold break and trub in #1 carboy and 0.5" in #2 carboy. Racked #1 carboy off trub/cold break into clean carboy. DID NOT rack #2 carboy. Fermentation temp 55f. 7 days later racked both carboys to secondary (5 gal. carboys). #1 gravity 1.050. #2 1.046. 21 days later racked to corny kegs for further conditioning (dry hopping and cold conditioning). #1 gravity 1.032, #2 1.036. Now that the background has been disclosed, here are my questions: 1. Why did #1 carboy have nearly all of the cold break/trub? The chilled wort was "pretty thoroughly" mixed before racking to the carboys. Yes, the carboys were filled sequentially not in parallel. I will fill in parallel next time. 2. What is the collective opinion on racking off cold break/trub soon (12 hrs.) after pitching? 3. Why are the gravities different? 4. Will Wyeast 1007 attenuate much more than the present gravity? (There was still some fermentation activity when I racked to the kegs)? 5. Why was my original gravity so high? (too much grain)? 6. Should I relieve the pressure build up in the kegs from time to time? 7. As I have no idea how much further this stuff will attenuate, when should I begin the gradual warm up for diacetyl rest, or should I have done the diacetyl rest at the end of the secondary fermentation? 8. How would one calculate the brew house efficiency for this batch. Clueless in Lonetree. TIA, private email welcome. Sorry for the bandwidth. Bill at Bill's Bathtub Brewery Lonetree, Colorado Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:53:48 -0600 From: beernote at realbeer.com (Mike Urseth) Subject: Scotch Ale In reply to ac051 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Eric W. Miller) beernote at realbeer.com (Mike Urseth) writes about Scotch Ale: >His Scotch >Ale (Pipers' Pride) uses an additional bitter agent called quassia (sp?) >that is derived from the bark of some plant grown in the New World. >>I think the spelling you're looking for is "cassia," a plant whose bark is >>more commonly known as "cinnamon." Are you sure this brewer isn't pulling >>your leg? No. The quassia is a completely different animal. It is so incredibly bitter that great care must be used when adding to the brew. This is one of those "lost beer" recipes that is not made anywhere else in the world today. Bill makes most of his beers to coincide with old examples of the style rather than the current models. If you ever get to Minnesota, definitely check the place out. Ususual disclaimer about not being involved with the aforementioned business yada yada yada. Mike Urseth Editor & Publisher Midwest Beer Notes 339 Sixth Avenue Clayton, WI 54004 715-948-2990 ph. 715-948-2981 fax e-mail: beernote at realbeer.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:55:52 -0500 From: CASteveB at aol.com Subject: European Beer Tour Greetings, I know that this question has been asked in the past, so maybe it is time for a FAQ concerning beer related travel sights. My wife and I are contemplating a trip to Europe and would like to get some info. She has graciously agreed to "help further my education" in relation to beer and brewing by indulging me in some beer related adventures. Tasting, Tours, you name it! :) Where will I be traveling? Most likely Great Britain, Germany, France, and Italy. Since I am in the Air force, my wife and I can hitch rides on Air Force planes throughout Eurpoe for little or no cost. So our itenerary is pretty flexible. With this in mind, I would appreciate all suggestions. I don't know anything about putting together a FAQ, but if I get enough info, I will summerize and organize it for whoever wants it, and will post it in any appropriate place for public access. If something like this already exists, please point it out to me. The HBD has been consistantly helpfully in the past. So Thanks Again, Steve CASteveB at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 13:39:32 MDT From: guym at Exabyte.COM Subject: Large fermenters rust1d at li.com writes: > What are the thoughts of using a 15+ gallon fish tank as a primary > open fermenter. Or can anyone tell me where to find carboys in the > 10+ gallon range? Alternative Beverage here in Charlotte carries a 15 gallon glass demijohn that goes for $38.95 plus 30 pounds UPS shipping. They also sell an 11 gallon plastic fermenter for $9.55 plus 5 pounds shipping. Their number is 800-365-2739. Not affiliated, etc. In fact, I find that I can order grain from St. Patrick's of Texas cheaper than I can drive down and pick it up at Alternative. This is largely due to the exorbitant $.50/pound fee they charge for cracking the grain while St. Pat's charges $.05/pound. I guess I really should spring for that MaltMill soon. -- Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// Erin go Bragh! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:25:28 -0800 From: Darren Gaylor <dgaylor at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Homebrew Digest To Whom It May Concern: I am interested in receiving Homebrew Digest if you are willing to mail it to me. Thankyou Darren Gaylor dgaylor at ix.netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 16:31:17 -0500 From: EKTSR at aol.com Subject: Ft. Lauderdale Brewpubs Sorry for the regionally specific info: I have the opportunity to have a few free hours in Ft. Lauderdale next week. I'm staying at the Westin Hotel on Corporate Drive. Are there any brewpubs / breweries / bars with great beer selections not to be missed?? Any recommendations for food ?? Private e-mail encouraged. THANKS !! Stan White ektsr at aol.com He that drinks strong beer, And goes to bed mellow, Lives as he ought to live, And dies a hearty fellow. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 19:56:30 +0000 From: "Richard Okambawa" <okambawa at UQTR.UQuebec.ca> Subject: RE: distilled beverage Aesoph, Michael asked in HBD 1984 A freind of mine has an old still that his grandfather made during prohibition. He states that it is not illegal to distill your own beverages. Is there any truth to this? If so, is distilling safe? I've thought about distilling some of my wine or pseudo-brandy into Brandy. Anyone know any good recipes for distilled beverages? Home winemaking and brewing are legal in USA and Canada. But if lawyers find that you distil (separate ethanol from the other components of the wash) one drop of alcohol at home without a licence, they will throw you in jail. So, operating a still at home is illegal. Theoretically the HBD does not have discussion about distillation. As manufacturing distilled beverage is closely related to our hobby... Learning the science and the technic of distillation is not illegal. Be sure that your friend's grandfather's still is <food grade> i.e. build with copper or SS and welded so that it is food-acid-high/temperature safe. Moonshiners often use car radiator condenser; their still are often solderedwith stuffs containing lead, cadmium, antimony. Those metals are volatile and very toxic. There is no problem if you use the concentrated beer to fuel your car. Distilled beverage are the <coeur de chauffe> i.e. the heads (rich in methanol *poison*) and the tails (rich in higher alcohol) are discarded. Books about the manufacture of cognac, armagnac, whisky are full of <recipes>. ********************* * Richard Okambawa * * 860 Ste Ursule * *Trois-Rivieres, Quebec * * Canada G9A 1P1 * * President, brewmaster and chief drinker * *Home: (819) 693 6445 * *Zymopolis Nanobrewery * *Work: Institut de recherche sur l'hydrogene * * (819) 3765170 ext 3591 * * http://para.uqtr.uquebec.ca/hydrogene2.html * * e-mail: richard_okambawa at uqtr.uquebec.ca * **************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 20:03:12 +0000 From: "Richard Okambawa" <okambawa at UQTR.UQuebec.ca> Subject: Wild yeast, <wild> yeast Hi all Is there an expert over ther who can give me the formal definition of a wild yeast? If I isolate a yeast which have desired properties from a jungle, is it still a wild yeast? Thanks. Richard Okambawa Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 20:21:56 +0000 From: "Richard Okambawa" <okambawa at UQTR.UQuebec.ca> Subject: RE: Fridge extension. Somebody spoke a couple of days ago about a design for fridge extension for controled temperature fermentation and lagering. I think that he want to remove the door and buil plywood walls...I saw a simple, easier and efficient approach on Geoff Scott's brewing page (http://www.io.org/~gscott). He connected the unmodified fridge to an insulated box with two PVC tubes, one of them equiped with a small electric fan connected to a domestic Honeywell thermostat. Control: +/-2 deg. C I think, the beer's temperature is controlled better because of thermal inertia. Cheers ********************* * Richard Okambawa * * 860 Ste Ursule * *Trois-Rivieres, Quebec * * Canada G9A 1P1 * * President, brewmaster and chief drinker * *Home: (819) 693 6445 * *Zymopolis Nanobrewery * *Work: Institut de recherche sur l'hydrogene * * (819) 3765170 ext 3591 * * http://para.uqtr.uquebec.ca/hydrogene2.html * * e-mail: richard_okambawa at uqtr.uquebec.ca * **************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 19:31:12 -0800 From: John Mrazek <harvard at cycor.ca> Subject: Stainless Mash Pot Kelly Heflin said: >All right, Lets all you experienced mashers put your heads together and >help me design the best stainless steel mash pot. I work in a sheet >metal shop and can make whatever we can come up with. I did this about 2 etc...... If you would like the best mash pot,then in my opinion you build a double jacketed stainless steel unit which is sitting on a gas burner being controlled by a computer which turns heat on and off as is needed.Then you can select any mashing temperature and number of temperature changes and on and on.That is what i have build and been using it for a 1 1/2 year. But that may be seen as a overkill to some brewers, but i love it and it is easy way to mash 10lb or 45 lb of grain. It just depends on the size of the mashing kettle. Also i am using the same setup for sparging after mashing. I have been trough the process of RIMS and did not like it at all. So if you are a builder of things and like lagers and such you sure can do them almost like they do them in Europe. Anyway good luck with your building and brewing. Regards John Mrazek E-mail harvard at cycor.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 00:18:38 -0500 From: HuskerRed at aol.com Subject: Fishy carboys, more wiring stuff, and Fementaps John Nicholas Varady <rust1d at swamp.li.com> write: > What are the thoughts of using a 15+ gallon fish tank as a primary open > fermenter. Or can anyone tell me where to find carboys in the 10+ gallon > range? You could then use the under gravel filter to aerate as well! Anyway, here's a carboy lead (thanks to Keith Christian), place an ad in the 'Nickel Shopper' in your area. My ad was about $3 and I got several calls. I got a 6.5 gallon for $5 and a 2.5 for $3. - ------- Brian Grier <bjgrier at bnr.ca> writes: > Passing 20 amps through a 14guage wire will cause the wire to heat excessively and can start a fire. If the cause of the fire is traced to this modification your home owners insurance WILL NOT cover anydamages. This isn't quite correct. # 14 will not melt down at 20 amps. National Electric Code Table 310-16 has # 14 rated at 25 amps, # 12 at 30, and # 10 at 40 with an obelisk (asterisk) beside them. The obelisk note states: "Unless otherwise specifically permitted elsewhere in this Code, the overcurrent protection for conductors type marked with an obelisk shall not exceed 15 amperes for No. 14, 20 amperes for No. 12, and 30 amperes for No. 10 copper;" So what this is saying is that # 14 is rated for 25 amps but must have a 15 amp breaker. Some of the older houses I've worked on have had 30 amp fuses or larger on # 14 wire. "We just kept blowing fuses and these were all we had left" is what the owners say. I certainly _do not_ condone improper sizing up breakers or fuses. Anyway, the info I really wanted to pass along about house circuits is that the code requires # 12 in kitchens, pantries, breakfast rooms, dining rooms, and laundry rooms. You can start looking for 20 amp circuits in these rooms first. - ------- I recently got a Fermentap brochure and was wondering if anyone could give a product review. I'm interested in the double Fermentap set-up to transfer from boy to boy as well. E-mail is probably the best on this one. TIA Lager on, Jason Henning Big Red Alchemy and Brewing huskerred at aol.com Some brew with skill and knowledge, I brew with fear and superstition. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:33:01 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Lagering In #1985 Dan Ritter asks about applying CO2 pressure to a Cornelius keg in which lagering is taking place: Don't forget that lagering is the tail end of fermentation and that CO2 is (or should be) evolved during the lagering period. The beer filled into the keg for lagering should have a fair amount of yeasst in suspensions, and should be cold as lager fermentations are carried out at low temperatures. Thus it should have a fair amount of dissolved CO2 and should evolve more in the coming weeks. The Cornelius keg should be purged of air with CO2 before filling, filled and sealed, then purged again. Now pressurize to 10-15 psi and disconnect the gas line. Put the keg in the lagering refrigerator/freezer and check the gas pressure from time to time. I find that the rate of evolution of gas about equals the rate it leaks out so that the pressure stays at about 10 -12 psi. With some kegs I have to top up occasionally and with others I have to bleed gas from time to time.(there are automatic bleed valves which will hold the pressure at about 10 psi). Thus the beer carbonates itself and you can tell your friends that it is "naturally" carbonated. Note also that the CO2 evolved during lagering "scrubs" smelly sulfides and other volatiles out of the beer. A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:04:08 -0500 (EST) From: Al Paglieri <bq359 at freenet.toronto.on.ca> Subject: Bass Ale Clone From: Jan Luttner <jluttner at scoot.netis.com> Subject: Bass Ale clone > > Can anyone tell me if there's a good recipe out there for a Bass Ale > > clone? The Cats Meow 3 has three different recipes. Have any of you > > tried one with any success or is there another one you might recommend > > that's worked well for you? I have this one fermenting right now. Actually I just moved it into my cold room for crash cooling and clearing. While measuring gravity, it tasted, smelled and looked great! Get the recipe from Cats Meow quoting the source as follows; Vance Sabbe (sabbe at zymurgy.stortek.com) r.c.b., 8/15/95 Cheers, Al. _______________________________________ Stargazer BBS. Everything from Astronomy to Zymurgy Free Access. 905-832-3962 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:08:56 -0500 From: PatrickM50 at aol.com Subject: distilling Mike Aesoph says: >>>>> A freind of mine has an old still that his grandfather made during prohibition. He states that it is not illegal to distill your own beverages. Is there any truth to this? If so, is distilling safe? I've thought about distilling some of my wine or pseudo-brandy into Brandy. Anyone know any good recipes for distilled beverages? <<<<<<< Since I live in wine country (Sonoma County, California) I have plenty of access to good juice and looked into distilling both wine (for grappa or brandy) and beer (for wiskey) a few years ago. Bottom line: It is ILLEGAL to distill spirits for consumption without a permit/license from the B.A.T. And they don't give them (sell them) to anyone wanting to make it at home for themselves unless you prove that you are making it to use as a fuel alternative/additive. There are books in your library that show how to distill small amounts of liquor for one's personal use and they go into the permit application procedure. To make anything other than harsh, raw, headache inducing firewater is no small feat however. That's why the good stuff costs so much in the stores. I would imagine that it's also why, after Prohibition, most folks stopped making it themselves and bought it from the big distilleries instead. Pat Maloney Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 08:10:15 -0600 From: "John Lifer, Jr." <jliferjr at felix.TECLink.Net> Subject: re: 2 day mashing On the 12th Brewizard at aol.com questioned splitting the brew day into two days. Following the instructions in previous HBD's by several people, (apologies to all, don't have that info handy) I boiled my water, cooled and reheated to mash temp while I weighted and ground the grains. I did simple infusion and after making sure the temp was about right, (162f wanted to hit a little high to increase unfermentables as most of my previous brews were a little light in body for my liking) I then put the pot I use to mash into the oven. I tried to turn on the oven every now and again for about 2 hours till I went to bed. Temp stayed where I wanted really well. The next morning I removed pot and after heating sparge water did sparge. Did not mash choc, and crystal & maize - added at start of sparge. Ended up pretty light color, pretty close to Young's Special that I was drinking at bottling last night. I think, after drinking my SG test last night, that all went well except I am way to light in hop bitterness. I didn't hit that part very well at all but I have a good mild bitter just waiting for me. Will probably try again to see if I can duplicate. FWIW, here is the recipe: 7# Breiss malt 1# malted wheat- mine, not the best ~70% malted 2 oz Victory 2 oz choc. 2 oz Flaked Maize did not mash -should have 6 oz 20l crystal 1 oz N Brewer at 6.9 60min 1.5 oz Fluggles at 4.2 60 min 1 oz Fluggles at 10 min 1 oz Kent Goldings at 0min SUDS says the IBU's are 39.2 NOT! Hops may be losing bitterness, getting a little old. Will let you know how it really tastes in a couple of weeks. John in Mississippi 'Nother Illegal Brew'n fool in Mississippi Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:58:48 -0500 From: William D Gladden <W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US> Subject: Extracts & Adjuncts Query Date: Friday, 15 Mar 1996 From: W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US (Bill Gladden) Subject: Extracts & Adjuncts Query In HBD #1984 AJ responds to someone asking about carbonation and writes: >A common problem with extract brews is that the beer has no head >retention whatsoever so that the carbonation, while there, >escapes in huge bubbles in a couple of minutes. I'll be. And here I thought my problem was unique. Since it's common, I'll bite and toss this out to the collective. I have not yet found a good source of detailed information on adjuncts and suspect this is one avenue to pursue in the quest for more body and head retention in my extract brews. Currently I'm a stovetop steeper and a firm believer in holding crystal malt at target temp for 30 min. v. the remove when it starts to boil method. While this certainly has added a fresher taste to the beer and a little more body, head retention is still pitiful. Any leads on good adjunct info. sources or suggestions on other ways to enhance head retention in extract brewing would be appreciated. Thanks. Bill Gladden "W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 10:00:46 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Figuring Final Gravity Clark D. Ritchie want to know: > Does anyone know a good way to predit a recipe's terminal gravity? I > realize that there are a lot of variables involved (temperature, yeast > attenuation, ingredients, etc.), however there must be a good formula for > making a ballpark estimate. I've searched all over and can't find one. The > yeast FAQ has a lot of good stuff, but all of the equations require you to > know the FG. Simple estimate is to take one-fourth of the original gravity "points". For example, if your OG is 1.048, you have 48 points; one-fourth is 12, so figure FG = 1.012. And you're right -- all those factors you mention will impact this, but for a "typical" recipe this is pretty close. Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com NY City Mayor Ed Koch -- "Life is indeed precious, and I believe the death penalty helps to affirm this fact." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 08:28:00 -0600 (CST) From: Michael Coen <COEN.MICHAEL at igate.pprd.abbott.com> Subject: Yeast Can anyone explain the term agglomeration in terms of yeast performance? I know the word means grittiness or macroscopic cell aggregates but is this a huge detriment to the whole fermentation cycle? I have noticed what looks to be this phenomena in the Special London Ale strain (#1968). Also with this strain and the german ale strain (#1007) I noticed microscopically that there were "small yeast" present. What caused me to look at the yeast was a gusher batch of IPA and some cloudiness in a Belgian Pale Ale. The fact that I see this but no bacteria make me think that it might be a "wild yeast" finding its way into my scrupulously clean brewing practices. This is a little disturbing. What do I mean by "small yeast? Amongst all the large Saccharomyces which are very large is a population of smaller yeast looking organisms......... about 1/10the size of the Saccharomyces. Under 100X magnification I even think I can see them budding. I have never seen these before in other yeasts, for example the Sierra Nevada strain. I keep -70C frozen glycerol stocks of all my yeasts and limit the number of thaw cycles......... and I plate for single colonies. Even off a fresh plate and a single colonies these little guys can be seen among the larger Saccharomyces. I cannot isolate single colonies of just these little guys. Any suggestions of experiments I could perform to figure this one out??? Also, microscopically, the large Saccharomyces look like they are loaded with refractile bodies.....maybe glycogen stores??? Whatever these little guys are I assume that the gusher problem was due to the fact that they could nibble on the higher dextrans causing excess carbonation. Just an observation............ the Irish Ale yeast (#1084) when allowed to sit for a long time in YNB +2% glucose will start "creeping" up the side of the vessel. Under the microscope pseudohyphae can be observed.................rather interesting phenomena presumably due to nutrient starvation.......I think Dr. Finks lab at MIT is big on this. One last thing....... does anyone know of or have heard of "gushing - inducing peptides" which are formed by wild yeast/fungi living on the grains. I guess this can happen if the grains are not properly stored and processed. The reason I mention this is that I recently got a bag of Schreier Malt that just didn't taste very good.....not even close to being as good as the Belgian Grains. Well, that's about it........guess I'll have to brew another IPA and try this yeast thing again. Any comments would be appreciated. The address at the top of this note can be used to reach me. Cheers!!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 10:05:51 CST From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> Subject: lager under pressure! In Digest #1985: <102446.3717 at compuserve.com> Dan Ritter wrote: >Does carbonation have any effect on the lagering process? Yes, see below. >A hypothetical case: I have just brewed a German Pilsener. I'm planning >to lager the beer in a corny keg for 4-6 weeks at 34 degrees F. During >the final two weeks of lagering, can I hook up my CO2 tank to the keg >and force carbonate while finishing the lagering? Sure, I do this all the time (as do many commercial breweries). >Or, is there some benefit to conducting the lagering phase while the beer is >flat? I don't force carbonate by the often used "keg shaking method" but prefer >to hook up the gas to my refrigerated keg for about ten days. There are published data which suggest lagering under pressure may actually be beneficial. Specifically, lagering under about 30 psi CO2 will definitely decrease the levels of fusel alcohols in the finished beer and may also reduce diacetyl levels as well, when using a lager yeast. With ale yeast, the story is a bit different. In this case, diacetyl is INcreased and fusels generally aren't reduced, but this may be acceptable for ales anyway. Since CO2 pressure will inhibit yeast activity significantly, you should wait until reaching the secondary to apply pressure. Also, some yeast strains may exhibit a loss of viability upon exposure to CO2 pressure for multiple generations. See the Journal of the Institute of Brewing 90: 81-84 (March-April 1984), "The Response of Saccharomyces cerevisiae to Fermentation Under Carbon Dioxide Pressure" by Ledezma et al. for details. Good luck. Tracy in Vermont aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 10:20:31 -0500 From: Kit Anderson <kit at maine.com> Subject: Oak >Now that I think about it, there is an English beer that is aged in oak, >but most certainly this would be well-used, European oak and therefore >would not add much oak character at all. I'm afraid I can't recall >which brewery it is that uses those oak secondaries. >Al That would be Gale's Prize Old Ale. - --- "If you are what you eat, then I would rather be a vertebrate than a polysaccharide." Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kit at maine.com> The Maine Beer Page http://www.maine.com/brew Return to table of contents