HOMEBREW Digest #1999 Mon 01 April 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  filtering (John W. Carpenter)
  Coriander and orange peel boil experiment results (Bart Thielges)
  HBRCP10 (RUSt1d?)
  mail list (Leland Kriegh)
  White hangers from Lalvin champagne (Douglas Thomas)
  New address (Larry Scaringelli)
  Holy Cow -- Las Vegas Brew Pub (singular) (p.) blatherwick" <blather at bnr.ca>
  ANYONE (Dean)
  na brew (Wallinger)
  clean out the closet (James Gifford)
  Re: ANYONE (arne thormodsen)
  Mini-Kegs (Robert Bloodworth)
  re: false bottom questions (C.D. Pritchard)
  +/-'s of 6-row malt?? ("David C. Rinker")
  New fine European beer web page... (Serges Salivonchick)
  First Wort Hopping Web Page ("Dave Draper")
  Hand stuck in carboy (Rolland Everitt)
  T.R.A.S.H. VI Winners (Ralph  Colaizzi)
  Temperature Controller (Ralph  Colaizzi)
  Duvel is good for you ! (Ludwig BERNHARD)
  Announcement Dutch open homebrew competition (Jacques Bertens)
  cleaning a real gross corny keg (Victor J Farren)
  Recipe request ("FINLEY, BARRY CURTIS")
  Hop s**t and trub... (Craig Stewart)

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 11:50:03 EST From: jwc at med.unc.edu (John W. Carpenter) Subject: filtering In HBD 1997 Tom F. writes: What do you use for sanitizing? I store mine in a light sodium hydroxide solution and sanitize with a light bleach solution. I'm reluctant to use iodophor for fear of staining my nice, bright white cartridge. I just started filtering, 1 batch now, and I used iodophor to sanitize my 5 micron filter. The iodine concentration was between 12.5 and 25 ppm according to the little test papers you can get. It was prob. closer to the 12.5 ppm. At any rate, it didn't stain my filter. I pushed 5 gal through the filter then filtered my beer into the keg that the iodophor was in. I didn't rinse the filter after the iodophor, just connected it to the source keg and kept on gettin' it. After filtering I backflushed with water until my filter was clean. I took it apart a couple of times and emptied the housing to speed things up. I just stored my filter in light bleach soln. in the refrigerator. I guess it's OK to store it in bleach, anyone see any problems here? John Carpenter, jwc at med.unc.edu Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 10:16:50 -0800 From: Bart Thielges <bart.thielges at Xilinx.COM> Subject: Coriander and orange peel boil experiment results Last night, I completed an experiment to determine the proper boil times for coriander and bitter orange peels, two ingredients thought to be in Celis Grand Cru. Here are the results. Executive summary - Boil the heck out of the orange peels, don't boil the coriander. Description of experiment : Two saucepans containing about 12 ounces of water each were brought to a boil. About two tablespoons of sugar were added to each to make the tasting solution closer to a completed beer. In one pan, a teaspoon of ground coriander is added. In the other, a piece of orange peel, perhaps 1/10 ounce was added. The orange peel was labelled "Belgian bitter orange peel, curacao type" from Fermentation Frenzy in Los Altos, CA, USA. During the boil, 1 ounce samples were drawn at various intervals and set aside to cool. Therein lies the primary flaw in this experiment - the solution volume significantly lowered during the process due to the sampling and evaporation. I attempted to counteract this in the last 30 minutes by adding a little more water (4 ounces or so). Still, I think that the results are useful. The samples were drawn at 1, 5, 15, 30, and 60 minutes after the boil began. All samples were allowed to cool to room temperature and then tasted. Here's my perceptions : boil time coriander orange peels - ---- ------------------------------ -------------------------------------- 1 quite tasty - distinct flavor almost no orange flavor. little color 5 flavor significantly faded similar to the flavor of the 1 minute sample, perhaps a bit more 15 even less flavor orange flavor begins to come through in earnest 30 little flavor more orange flavor, a bit of a sharp edge 60 tasteless sugar water strong orange flavor with a bitter tinge. Definite orange color. So my recommendations would be to use orange peels for a full hour boil and add coriander at the very end. I hope this info helps ! As a reminder, if you would like to join in the Celis Grand Cru recipe project, please reply to me and I'll add you to the mailing list. Bart thielges at xilinx.com Brewing equipment destroyed in this experiment - 0 (but lots of dishes to clean) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 13:51:11 -0500 From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at swamp.li.com> Subject: HBRCP10 My homebrew software database is complete (V1.0 anyway!) It is a full screen editor with plenty of tables and calculators. Prints labels, brewsheets, and recipe books. "Homebrew Recipe Calculator 1.0 Shareware" is available at http://www.netaxs.com/people/vectorsys/index.html If you stop by to grab it, sign my guestbook and say brew. It favors all grain but extract brewers may like it too. John Varady Boneyard Brewing (A.G. Baby!) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 14:13:41 -0600 (CST) From: Leland Kriegh <LELANDK at BETHANY.BETHANYLB.EDU> Subject: mail list please remove me from your mailing list. thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 12:21:04 -0800 (PST) From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd at uchastings.edu> Subject: White hangers from Lalvin champagne Hello all! I am currently on the second racking of some strawberry wine. A very potent one indeed. To get this potency, I used Lalvin Champagne yeast, with a tolerance somewhere near 18% and a good fruity nose. Well, my first racking revealed to my unbelieving eyes, floating mats of what I later had confirmed as yeast (i baked with one, and it made great, sorta winey bread). Now that the wine has been racked, I have not encountered any more mats, but have found some white stringy floaters. Could it be that the yeast is trying to form more mats? If not, what are they? The wine tastes fine so far. Has the typical green flavor, but no off tastes or bouquet. Any ideas? Doug Thomas thomasd at uchastings.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 13:58:06 -0700 From: Larry Scaringelli <scarin at primenet.com> Subject: New address Notifying you of my new email address scarin at primenet.com sorry i didn't notify you sooner I hope you didn't get bounced mail from the old address Larry _______________________________________________________________ Nothing can tear you apart If you keep livin' straight from the heart Though you know that you're gonna hurt some The magic will come J.Buffett scarin at primenet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 16:17:00 -0500 From: "peter (p.) blatherwick" <blather at bnr.ca> Subject: Holy Cow -- Las Vegas Brew Pub (singular) kcollins at seidata.com writes: >Does anyone out there know of any brewpubs/microbreweries within the >Las Vegas area? I visited Las Vegas recently and was only able to dig up 1 Brew Pub. (I was desperate for decent beer, and searched hard!) "Holy Cow" NE corner of Las Vegas Strip and Sahara Ave (just a bit north of the Las Vegas Convention Center) phone (702) 732-COWS (or 732-2697) They make a great Red Ale and Pale Ale, and pleasant Hefe Weiss. Also have at least one special "Brew Master" beer on tap (I had a wicked "Hacker Pale Ale"). Good food and service. Tours available sometimes (but you can just wander upstairs and have a look any time). Well worth a visit, even if they weren't the only place around. Check around a bit and you might be able to find some discount certificates (look for cows with sunglasses) -- I found a free beer certificate at the Budget rent-a-car place as I was checking out on my way home... :-/ BTW, There's NO SHORTAGE of other trouble to be found in Vegas! Peter Blatherwick (blather at nortel.com) Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Mar 96 21:22:41 GMT From: homebrew at metrolink.net (Dean) Subject: ANYONE Does anyone ever read this news group. If you do, leave a message. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 21:21:35 -0600 From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: na brew jim mitchell askes about non-alcoholic beer. i too am working on na = brew. my father is now on medication for arthritis that prevents him = from drinking alcohol. so he has taken to drinking na, and i have taken = to brewing it. i have read with dismay the attempts to heat the finished beer to drive = off the alcohol, or to freeze the beer to drain off the alcohol. the = descriptions suggest that the result is not adequate. so, i am taking another tack (as i do in most of my activities). i have = brewed a 1-gal and then a 5-gal batch with carapils (dextrine) malt. = with the first batch i confirmed that carapils extract does not ferment. = my father rated it equal to the european offerings. so my 5-gal batch = simply scaled up to strike a gravity of 1.006 by extracting what was = there from 2 lbs of carapils malt. i expected 1.008-1.010, but what the = heck. i boiled the all grain extract (wort) just like a regular all = grain batch, adding hops along the way. the 5-gal result is a drinkable beer, but not quite as good as some of = the european offerings. the taste is slightly grainy and a bit thin = (which i think is do to my poor extract efficiency leaving only 1.006 = og). i have not given up. my next attempt may include just enough pale = malt to end up with 0.5% alcohol (legally na) and ferment it to see if = the beer improves. wade wallinger pascagoula, mississippi Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 22:57:00 -0600 (CST) From: James Gifford <brewer at server.elysian.net> Subject: clean out the closet Let's face it, all that *really* matters is that you like and enjoy it! I've made a couple of welfare beers, and they came out decent. They wouldn't do well in competetion, I wouldn't know what style to call them anyway. But I did enjoy drinking them. Brew on, and enjoy! - -- Jay Gifford Brewer at elysian.net - --If this were an actual tagline it *might* be funny. Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Mar 1996 23:43:27 GMT From: arnet at cup.hp.com (arne thormodsen) Subject: Re: ANYONE Dean (homebrew at metrolink.net) wrote: : Does anyone ever read this news group. If you do, leave a message. No, I never read or post to this group. I don't even use "news". In fact I've never had access to a computer. I don't even exist, this note is a figment of your deranged imagination. - --arne Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Mar 96 06:59:54 EST From: Robert Bloodworth <100334.664 at compuserve.com> Subject: Mini-Kegs >I respect that concern for private >property and obeying the rules, but I have to wonder whether mini-kegs are >actually shipped back to Germany for refill. The 5 ltr Mini-Kegs are known as 'Party-Cans' here in Germany. There is no deposit and they are most definitely not refilled. They cost the brewery pennies and Fass-Frisch is milking homebrewers in the US and elsewhere at $5 or more a pop. One filled with a decent beer (e.g. Wahrsteiner, Frueh Koelsch, or Czech Bud) costs about $10-14 here in Cologne. I refill them all the time because it's easier than kegging and they fit easily into the small german refridgerators for lagering. Question for the HBD: Has anyone out there tried to build an adapter to force carbonate beer in one of these 5 ltr cans? By the way, be careful not to scratch the coating off the metal around the opening when removing the stopper. These cans are ordinary sheet metal with a non-toxic coating. Remove the coating, and they rust. I prime the cans with 25-35 g of sugar for a full 5 ltr can. Leave about an inch of air space to aid in fast carbonation. Good luck. >From Steve in HBD 1995: >I use about a cup of bleach in the dishwasher in a normal cycle. I >too, was skeptical at first of the sanitization possibilities, but >since I start with fairly clean bottles anyway, I figured what the >heck - I hated my old bottle sanitizing method so much anything was >worth a try. Bleach is very corrosive against stainless steel at higher concentrations and temperatures. I would suggest reducing the amount of bleach if you don't want to ruin your dishwasher. Short soaking in dilute bleach, a rinse with a jet washer and drip dry is also easy and should work just as well. Bob Bloodworth Cologne Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 96 09:47 EST From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard) Subject: re: false bottom questions Rob Emenecker <remenecker at cadmus.com> posted in 1997: >For a lauter tun I am using 5-gallon food grade buckets with a false bottom >(ala Phil). The damn thang keep raising up on me as I was adding foundation >water...I had to recirculate nearly TWO GALLONS OF WORT. Same experience I had- I call it a phloating phalse bottom. Tis a pity the instructions that come with the thing don't include a warning... Scrap brass fastened to the false bottom helps as does jiggling it about in the foundation water to dislodge the air bubbles adhearing to the holes in the thing. I now use a slotted copper manifold instead- it's much better and cheaper. C.D. Pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 10:03:11 -0500 (EST) From: "David C. Rinker" <dcrink at widomaker.com> Subject: +/-'s of 6-row malt?? Greetings all, I am gearing up to brew a Belgian Wit and planning on using unmalted wheat to make up about 45% of the grain bill. Concerned about the possibility of a stuck sparge, I was thinking of using a 6-row pale malt to make up some (or all) of the remaining bill. This would guarantee a better filter bed and would also increase the mash's diastatic power. Unfortunately, any discussion of the pros and cons of 6-row is scarce and, so far, Noonan's in BLB is the best I have been able to find. As many of your know, his evaluation of this type of malt is less-than-flattering and rather curt. Here are his misgivings and my questions: 1)He says that this type of malt's high protein content will cause problems with "clairity and stability"--What does he mean by stability? Won't a good protein rest(s) do the trick here? 2)The finished beer will be darker and heavier tasting--Why is this? 6-row is generally rated as only contributing 1.7L/lb/gal. 3)The husk to endosperm ratio will lead to "harsh flavors"--Is he merely referring to tannins here? Won't attention to mash pH obviate any problems here? Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. FWIW, I found a fantastic source for hard-to-find brewing ingredients. It's the Mountain Malt&Hop Shop in Syracuse, NY, ph# 1 800 295-MALT. They have a lot of good stuff including dried bitter orange peel for sale by the ounce! They fellow I talked to was very kind and helpful. No affiliations etc. Cheers, David Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 15:22:42 -0500 (EST) From: Serges Salivonchick <salivans at cpbgppp46.epix.net> Subject: New fine European beer web page... Hello fellow beer enthusiasts... For those of you that enjoy tasting 'real' beers, you might want to have a look at the web page I am setting up at http://www.early.com/~cmg. The page is its infancy and so far only lists the beer of one importer - All Saint's Brands - but I plan to add more in the near future. The page has a product locator to help you find these beers in your area. Have a look at let me know what you think. Thanks! S. Salivonchick cmg at early.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 09:17:04 +10 From: "Dave Draper" <david.draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: First Wort Hopping Web Page Dear Friends, I have put together a short web page containing an augmented version of the summary of the FWH article that I posted recently. I have expanded certain sections of the post to address some of the questions that were raised, and which I addressed in my second FWH post; and I have included a brief section at the end containing some of the comments and opinions that have come up here since then. The page is accessible via my beer page: http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/beer.html What I would also like to call for is some input from those of you Out There who have used the FWH technique already. What I'd like is to have the page also act as a sort of repository for brief descriptions of applications of this technique and your subjective assessment of how successful you think it was. What I have in mind is putting together a little table consisiting of the following info: brewer, style made, amount & variety of FWH added, other hopping details (bittering additions, dry-hopped or not, etc), target IBUs, OG, FG, and comments. Real simple stuff--just so folks can, as the data accumulate, get a sense for how well it works on a homebrew scale, which styles it seems to work best for, that sort of thing. I will simply keep an eye peeled for FWH posts here in HBDland, and add the results to the page as they are posted, so I am asking anyone who posts on the procedure in future to include the data above. Those of you whom I know for sure have already brewed FWH beers include Eric Miller, Tracy Aquilla, John Palmer, Andy Walsh, and Jim DiPalma. For those of you who have already got the complete data, if you guys would be willing to email me these details, I'd be very grateful--your results (along with those on my first attempts, to be reported within a couple weeks here) will be the first on the page. If you'd rather just post it once here and have done (e.g., Tracy, I know you've got stuff in the pipe that you will be posting here eventually), that's fine too. Whatever you're willing to do. Thanks for all input, and hope you all find the thing useful. Cheers, Dave in Sydney "That's all very well in practice; but will it work in *theory*?" - ---Ken Willing - --- *************************************************************************** David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au WWW: http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/home.html ...I'm not from here, I just live here... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 07:41:55 -0500 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: Hand stuck in carboy After bottling a batch yesterday, I washed my carboy, as I always do, by putting a couple of quarts of strong, hot ammonia solution in it, and shaking vigorously, followed by several hot rinses. I made a serious error and used cold water for the last rinse. When I shook the carboy (with my hand sealing the opening), the vacuum suddenly created was strong enough to suck my hand into the neck up to my wrist, where it remains firmly (and uncomfortably) lodged. I don't want to break the carboy if I don't have to, but this is a serious inconvenience, as you can imagine (for example, I am forced to dictate this message to a friend). Has anyone had a similar experience? I remember the copious stopper- stuck-in-carboy thread a few months ago, and I am really hoping for similar concern about my predicament. Please write soon. Is my hand ruined? Rolland Everitt af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 10:10:51 From: Ralph Colaizzi <rcolaizzi at gnn.com> Subject: T.R.A.S.H. VI Winners Three Rivers Alliance of Serious Homebrewers Sixth annual homebrew competition. T.R.A.S.H. VI Congratulations to these Winners! American Ale 1 Anthony Gromek, 2) Robert Joseph, 3) Jay Marchetti American Lager 1) Curt Speaker, 2) David Zalewski, 3) M.Lemire/C.Wyke Bock 1) Paul Sullivan, 2) Greg Walz, 3) Bill Campbell Belgian/french Ale & Belgian Lambic 1)Delano Dugarm, 2) Steve Jones, 3) Chuck Boyce Barley Wine 1) Sharbaugh/Mulviltill, 2) Paul Devine, 3)Rolf Erickson California Common 1) Michael Escourt, 2)Brent Talbot, 3) John Szarek Cider 1)M.Benson/P.Devine, 2)Greg Walz, 3) Ed Bloom Classic Pilsner 1)M.Gignac&G.Rooker, 2) Bob Wolff, 3) Rhett Rebold English Bitter 1) Mark Samolis 2) Donald Bruckner,3) Russel Salter Fruit Beer 1) Robert Dawson, 2) Delano Dugarm, 3)Robert Joseph Fruit Mead 1) Robert Joseph, 2)Robert Dawson, 3) Ken Whitney German Ale 1) Richard Schutte, 2) Peter Breil, 3) Fred Hardy German Lager 1) George Fix, 2) Helmut Schumacher, 3)Richard Allen German Wheat - No First Place Awarded 2)Neumans/G.Geidel, 3) Clncy/smpls/Vancupa Herb and Spice Beer 1)Anthony Gromek, 2) John Chernoff, 3) Tony Knipling Mild/Brown Ale 1)Clncy/smpls/Vancupa, 2) Don VanOllefen, 3)David Weeks Traditional/herb/spice Mead 1) Fred Hardy, 2) Ken Whitney, 3)Ted Woycio English Pale Ale 1) Robert Dawson, 2)L.&J. Steinmetz, 3) Gary Matz Porter 1) Steve Jones, 2) Tony Knipling, 3) J.Hauck/M. Heigl Scotch Ale- Special Award 1) Steve Jones, 2)Rhett Rebold, 3)M.Benson/P.Devine Smoked Beer/ Specialty 1) Robert Joseph, 2) Richard Rosowski, 3) Richard K.Moore Stout 1)J.Boggess/Clay Pool, 2)Clncy/smpls/Vancupa, 3)Ted Woycio Vienna/Marzen/Oktoberfest 1)Rich Rosowski, 2) George Fix, 3)Bill Campbell BEST OF SHOW 1) J. Boggess/ Claypool- Imperial Stout 2) George Fix - Munich Helles 3) Delano Dugarm - Belgian Triple Ralph Colaizzi Pittsburgh,PA rcolaizzi at gnn.com http://members.gnn.com/rcolaizzi/welcome.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 10:09:36 From: Ralph Colaizzi <rcolaizzi at gnn.com> Subject: Temperature Controller The T.R.A.S.H. Homepage now has plans and a schematic for a refrigerator temperature controller designed by Greg Walz. The url is: http//members.gnn.com/rcolaizzi/trash.htm Thanks,Greg for sharing this design. cheers, Ralph Colaizzi Ralph Colaizzi Pittsburgh,PA rcolaizzi at gnn.com http://members.gnn.com/rcolaizzi/welcome.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 19:01:05 -0300 From: lbernhard at magic.fr (Ludwig BERNHARD) Subject: Duvel is good for you ! Hello ! I'm from North of France, near Belgium where there's a lot of realy good stuff ! One of my favorite beer is DUVEL !! Does somebody taste it ? Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 22:24:13 +0200 (MET DST) From: jacbier at pi.net (Jacques Bertens) Subject: Announcement Dutch open homebrew competition Homebrew club "De Roerstok" organizes the 12th Open Dutch homebrew competition which is the largest homebrew competition in the Benelux (the Netherlands and Belgium) and probable in Europe. About 350 entries are expected. The competition will be held on 25 may 1996 at the trappistbrewery "De Schaapskooi", Tilburg, the Netherlands (one of the six trappistbreweries in the world - five in Belgium and one in the Netherlands) . More information about this competition (in Dutch) can be found at webpage http://www.pi.net:80/~jacbier/wedstr96.html. ****************************************************************** * * * Jacques Bertens, Loon op Zand, the Netherlands * * Brouw ze, roer ze en Proost! (Dutch: brew, stir and cheers!) * * http://www.pi.net:80/~jacbier/home.html * * * ****************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 18:39:42 -0500 From: Victor J Farren <wigwam at jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu> Subject: cleaning a real gross corny keg I just bought a used Corny keg that used to have the lemon-lime soda Slice, in it. I have tried to clean it using just Clorox and water. I have let it soak for days on two seperate occasions, but I can't get the sweet smell out of it. Is there a better cleaner that I can use. I have never used B-bright or idiophor (?) so I have no experience with these products. Will they work better than Clorox? Is there anthing else I can use? Thanks in advance... Victor F. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 20:51:22 EST From: "FINLEY, BARRY CURTIS" <BFINLEY at MUSIC.CC.UGA.EDU> Subject: Recipe request I just opened my first bottles of my first batch of homebrew and I am extremely pleased with the outcome. The only problem that I have with the brew is that I was expecting a lighter bodied brew, with not quite as much hop distincion. With all of the talk on the list, I assume that most subscribers would frown upon my taste in beer. Don't get me wrong, I love brews like Sam Adams and Bass Ale, but for an every day brew that everyone in the house likes, I'd have to make a more typical American brew. Since I'm not the only person that invested in the equipment and supplies, I need to make everyone else a batch of their favorite brew, a Michelob clone. Can anyone help me out here? I don't even have a clue as to make clones, since I've only brewed one batch of brew, which was a kit of pale ale. I want to brew my next batch by getting away from the kit and adding my own hops, etc. I guess that I want more control of the outcome, not have a kit determine what the brew will taste like. I hope that someone out there can give me a recipe for the typical American beer (preferably a Michelob clone) Thanks in advance Barry Finley Biological Sciences University of Georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 01:18:56 -0400 (AST) From: Craig Stewart <foghorn1 at darwin.nbnet.nb.ca> Subject: Hop s**t and trub... Ladies and Gentlebrewers...... This first (potentialy last) batch of stout has been an unmitigated (is that a word?) disaster! For the first time in my <short> brewing history did a blow off tube carry more than a thimble full of crap out of the carboy! I should have POURED it out of the carboy, it would have been less painfull. This was also the first time that I tried a 4 litre yeast starter that had chugged away fir a couple of days prior to B-day. I also tried out Irish Moss (seaweed). A 'nice clear beer' I was told. I expected trub, not as much as I got though! I simply figured that this would settle to the bottem and I could siphon off it when the time came. WRONG AGAIN! This 'stuff' seemed to combine with the disintigrated hop pellets (hate them, but can't get the whole ones around here. Plugs make a diff?) and was like trying to siphon wet concrete! Anyway, I ended up with about 3 1/2 gal in the secondary. The good news is, that with all of my troubles so far, I don't seem to have an infected batch on my hands. Any sugestions as to what I can do so that I don't go bald, or put a large dent in my supply of brew, and in so doing and in so doing becopming rather intoxicated? I started this hobby because I enjoy good beer. I didn't expect it to drive me to drink! I bought a 'hop bag' with my supplies for the next batch. I'm skeptical about how well this will work. The bags are made out of cheese cloth. That MIGHT filter out the trub, but I'm not sure. I'm on the verg of trying a German style Wheat Beer, but damn, I don't want this nightmare to happen again. So, in closing: HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! - -- ************************************************************************** Non-Disclaimer: Any resemblance between the above views and those of my employer, my terminal, or the view out my window are purely coincidental. Any resemblance between the above and my own views is non-deterministic. The question of the existence of views in the absence of anyone to hold them is left as an exercise for the reader. The question of the existence of the reader is left as an exercise for the second god coefficient. (A discussion of non-orthogonal, non-integral polytheism is beyond the scope of this article.) ************************************************************************** flames to /dev/null Craig Stewart foghorn1 at mailserv.nbnet.nb.ca Return to table of contents