Homebrew Digest Sunday, 21 July 1996 Number 2116

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   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  Odor removal (m.bryson2 at genie.com)
  NOKOMAREE at aob.org  has pissed me off! (Jay Williams)
  Wheeler's Porter...part 1 (Rob Moline)
  Wheeler's Porter, part 2 (Rob Moline)
  Wheeler's Porter (Rob Moline)
  re: Invert sugar/honey ((Dick Dunn))
  Two Dogs Lemonade ((Andy Walsh))
  STUPID!! (Rob Moline)
  STUPID!! (Rob Moline)
  Light Brews / Bottle Priming of the Few (KennyEddy at aol.com)
  signoff (cheryl)
  Extract Brewing ((biohazrd))
  DUMB AND DUMBER AND DUMBER! (NOKOMAREE at aol.com)
  NOKOMAREE at aol.com ' s comment on carbonation (Terry Smith)
  Recipies on Cats Meow (Mike Galvez)
  UV light ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
  Recipe: Improvisational Wheat (Marty Tippin)
  Jethro Apologizes (Rob Moline)
  Wit Beer Ingredients ((biohazrd))
  Apology to NOKMAREE (Jay Williams)
  NOKOMAREE at aol.com (Domenick Venezia)
  Mold in beer (Glenn & Kristina Matthies)
  Water bottles (shyguy)
  Thermostats, Lagering Equipment (Jim Overstreet)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: m.bryson2 at genie.com Date: Sat, 20 Jul 96 00:00:00 UTC 0000 Subject: Odor removal Derrick: An old method( still very functional) is to leave the bucket out in the sunshine for a few days. From my own experience, I can tell you that it works well at eliminating odors from plastic. Hope this helps. Matthew Bryson Return to table of contents
From: Jay Williams <jayw7 at airmail.net> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 21:45:11 -0500 Subject: NOKOMAREE at aob.org has pissed me off! >>From: NOKOMAREE at aol.com >>Don't be dumb! Just do it! What's wrong with lots of you? Gelatin.................beverage settler? Just mix 2 large Tablespoons with 1 cup of corn sugar (dry, yes mix them dry) stir (dry, yes, stir them dry) and then sprinkle into a cup of boiling water. It will dissolve completely & immediately. Add to your primer and bottle like nornal. That's all! No extra steps! Don't analyze anything! Just do it! Are you all really so dumb? >>Don't analyze.......just do! This gentleman hopefully has his flame shields up. He is most likely a really short guy with an smallish, dysfunctional penis, and has a smallish, dysfunctional brain to match. Since his obvious desire is to disrupt the homebrew digest, all future flames will be directed at the intended target! Hopefully, you will do the same. Sincerely Jay Williams Return to table of contents
From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:52:53 -0500 Subject: Wheeler's Porter...part 1 >From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> >Subject: Porter >> The following is re-printed here,by permission of the publisher of "Homebrew Today,"Evelyn Barrett, and the author, Graham Wheeler. >> >> "Old-Time London Porter" >> London porter has its origins in the brown ale and brown beer traditions that go back to the historical roots of British brewing. >> Brown beers and brown ales were made from a type of malt known as brown malt, which was a smoked malt. In early brewing practice, when the malt was being dried or roasted in the kiln at the end of the malting process, the cheapest and in most cases the only form of fuel available to fire the kilns was locally gethered wood; green hardwoods such as oak, ash, beech or hornbeam. During drying, phenol carried by the wood smoke became absorbed in the malt, giving it a smoky character as a result. >> The term, brown, referred more to the outward appearance of the malt after the smoke condensate had settled on it, rather than the colour it imparted to the beer. Just about all beers were made from brown malt up until the early 1800's.The smoking phase of malt production was considered an essential part of the malting process, as it still is today with whiskey malt production. >> Strong brown ales were the most popular drinks in Britain until heavy taxation started to hit ales and made them unaffordable. In 1692 the government increased beer tax, a form of sales tax on beer, to finance a punch-up with the French. This increase alone caused consumption to fall by 27 percent. Furthermore, the tax was disproportionate; the tax on ale was four times that on beer. The taxes were again increased in 1694, 1697, 1786 (1706?, Jethro's comment), and 1711, but by 1711 the brewers were faced with a malt tax, a hop tax and the disproportionate sales tax previously mentioned. The malt tax, for instance, increased the price of malt by 260 percent. All this, coupled with the fact that the sale tax on ale was 4 times that on beer, made the strong ales and common ales of the day prohibitively expensive and people were forced towards cheaper and weaker beer and cheaper gin. The legal distinction bteween ale and beer was purely on strength. >> Even the beer brewers were forced to weaken their products and hop them more heavily to compensate. In those days, it was customary for ales and beers to be matured for relatively long periods; freshly brewed beer was harsh, bitter and horrible. During maturation the harsher flavors mellowed, but with extended maturation it was found that the new weaker, but more heavily hopped beers developed a type of sourness that was not unpleasant. London drinkers developed a liking for this background sourness and publicans tapped anything up to 6 casks of different ages, and thus of different degrees of sourness, in order to allow their customers to choose the degree of sourness that best suited their tastes. >> It was not long before it was realized that fresh, immature beer, straight from the brewery, blended with various proportions of a long matured, heavily soured beer, achieved the same ends, and drinkers took to ordering a mixture of "mild" and "stale" in proportions that best suited their palates. >> "Mild" in old time parlance meant freshly brewed beer, virtually straight out of the brewery, which had not been matured for any length of time; it had nothing to do with hop rate or colour- those characteristics that seem to be the modern understanding of the term. "Stale" in old time parlance was the same beer that had been matured for a year or much longer and had turned sour. It was the mixing by the drinker, in his tankard, of a small proportion of stale beer with a larger quantity of mild beer, that was the foundation of London porter. This produced a cheap, relatively weak beer that drank like a stronger old beer. >> "Stale" was an important ingredient,but the brewers of the day had modest businesses by todays standards and they could not afford to mature the beer themselves. Brewers made only mild (immature) beer and did not hold stocks. Initially, it was the publican's job to take his own casks to the brewery to be filled and it was his job to mature the beer for an appropriate length of time. It took a year or longer to sour good "stale" beer, but the cost of the casks and the formidably high taxation that had to be paid on the nail by the brewer, meant that neither brewer nor publican could afford the capital outlay required to mature a year or more's supply of beer. This brought about what is probably the earliest form of commercial factoring. According to one contemporary writer; "Moneyed people made a trade of purchasing their hopped beers at the first hand, keeping them some time and when stale to dispose of the same to publicans." These moneyed people charged well for their services; mild beer retailed at twopence per quart and stale beer at fourpence per quart, even though both types of beer started out in life as exactly the same stuff. One hundred percent was an incredible profit in the days when a return on capital of five percent per annum was considered handsome. >> This, of course, angered the brewers who worked for a pittance of a markup, and paid formidably high taxes out of what they received, only to find some rich sod doubling his money on the back of their labours. It was obvious that this state of affairs could not last for ever and the brewers themselves would want a piece of the action. From the 1720's onwards brewers gradually took to maturing the beer themselves as capital surpluses permitted, probably by brewers who were prepared to age beer for a much more modest profit than 100 percent, and this was the foundation of the great London porter breweries. >> Thus the original London porter was invented by the people of London, the collective drinking public, and not by Ralph Harwood as many people assert. It would have been brownish in colour and translucent, not jet black. It would have had a rich smoky flavour derived from the brown malt, and a pleasant winey aftertang caused by the deliberate souring. Some types of porter, known as "Entire" were mixtures of mild and stale, blended at the brewery and supplied in one cask, but this did not suit all palates and by far the majority of London porter was supplied in two casks and mixed by the drinker. Cheers! Rob Moline Little Apple Brewing Company Manhattan, Kansas "The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about beer!" Return to table of contents
From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:52:59 -0500 Subject: Wheeler's Porter, part 2 Wheeler's Porter, part 2 > The stale or sour component of porter is a hard concept for modern people to come to terms with, and most historians and beer writers, when they come across references to it in the literature, seize on this and fly into diatribes about poor hygiene and unscrupulous landlords adulterating their beer with spoilt slops, but nothing could be further from the truth. The stale component was an essential ingredient, the secret ingredient, which in fact cost twice the price of unsoured beer, and was the foundation of the whole porter phenonmenon. > Of course, only a small amount of stale was blended with mild to achieve the agreeable winey tang, so porter was still a relatively cheap drink at threepence per quart; the common ales and striong ales of the day were 1/- and 1/6 per bottle respectively---four to six times the price, although I don't know how big a bottle was, probably a quart. > 300 years later it is hard to judge what type of sourness was predominant or, indeed, what the souring organisms were. Fortunately, there is one beer in the world that is still made the same way as porter in an unbroken tradition. This is the Belgian Rodenbach, which has it's origins in London Porter, and is itself a blend of a sour beer, stored for 18 months in large oak vats, and a relatively fresh beer that is only a month or so old. Furthermore they also sell the sour or "stale" beer on it's own, under the name of Rodenbach Grand Cru. > Neither beer seems to me to be as sour as they were just a few years ago, the brewery have probably toned them down to reach a wider market, but nevertheless the sourness of Grand Cru is not unpleasant. It has flavors of both acetic and citric acidity, providing a sourness which is quite mellow. It is nothing like the back-shuddering sourness of badly kept beer in the pub that many people regard as vinegary. Perhaps the souring microbe are different, or it may be that extended maturation also mellows the sourness that develops so that it becomes less harsh and less assertive. Most people do not find the taste of vinegar unpleasant, as observation of the habits of people in fish and chip shops will confirm, so it should be no surprise that an acetic beer can be quite pleasant. It is said that about twenty micro-organisms contribute to the sourness of Rodenbach. Unfortunately, it is not made from smoked malt these days, but nevertheless, it does give us some idea of what old time London porter must have tasted like. > The newly introduced Guinness "Harwood's Porter" breaks history on two grounds. Not only is it the first cask conditioned beer ever to be made at the Park Royal Brewery, but it is the only example of the new generation of porters that is a proper porter; a blend of mild and stale like old time porters used to be. Deep in the Dublin brewery, Guinness still have their huge oak souring vats, and sour beer from these is shipped to Park Royal to be blended with freshly brewed beer. The added sour beer is probably very miniscule to suit modern tastes, but nevertheless it is still a proper porter. > Over the next 150 years, porter evolved considerably from these early beginnings, but that is another story." > > Reprinted with permission from "Homebrew Today," Subcriptions 7.50 pound sterling, 4 issues yearly, 4 Lytles Close, Formby, Liverpool, L37 4BT, UK. > Cheers! Rob Moline Little Apple Brewing Company Manhattan, Kansas "The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about beer!" Return to table of contents
From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 23:12:15 -0500 Subject: Wheeler's Porter Hope you like it..the post's were 19 to none.... Jethro... Cheers! Rob Moline Little Apple Brewing Company Manhattan, Kansas "The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about beer!" Return to table of contents
From: rcd at raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn) Date: 19 Jul 96 22:59:34 MDT (Fri) Subject: re: Invert sugar/honey John Wilkinson <jwilkins at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com> wrote, _inter_alia_: >...The thing I wonder about, though, is why honey is said to take longer to > ferment than malt if it is mostly glucose and fructose? Shouldn't they be > more readily fermentable than maltose since the yeast has to break down > maltose into glucose just as it has to break down sucrose into glucose > and fructose? Or am I off in left field here? No, you've got the idea right...honey itself is quite fermentable. (The effect of adding honey to a beer is to make it more "crisp"--because the honey ferments out completely, leaving little residual character.) The non-fermentable parts of honey are negligible...given a good chance, honey will ferment out far better than malt. The catch is that honey, by itself, doesn't contain the nutrients that yeast need to be happy about fermenting. Honey as an additive to beer ferments just fine; honey by itself (as in a traditional mead, for example) ferments reluctantly and slowly. Mead-makers have to think more carefully about nutrients. _ _ _ _ _ As long as I'm writing...to the folks who have been too polite to comment on NOKOMAREE at aol.com, yes, it's either a massive troll or someone who is at the needs-help-to-drool level of brewing. The clue is that "it" (don't you love how aol.com, like Romulans, cloak their losers?;-) not only doesn't even know how to measure priming sugar (weight _vs_ volume) but gives the wrong amount in the wrong units. A cup of corn sugar?!? Old Face-full, anyone? Bet that nokomaree disappears after its junk-mail free trial sub- scription to aol.com expires. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at talisman.com Boulder County, Colorado USA Return to table of contents
From: awalsh at world.net (Andy Walsh) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:44:33 +1000 (EST) Subject: Two Dogs Lemonade Anybody wishing to know the joke that the name of Two Dogs Lemonade was based on can contact me privately. I warn you that some may find this joke offensive. If you think you might be one of these people, do not contact me. Anyone who flames me for sending them the joke after they asked me for it will be ignored. Also, a message to Jethro Gump. Please post your Wheeler porter thing on the HBD (you knew you would, didn't you?) Andy. ************************************************************* Wohlgemuth Walsh from Sydney email: awalsh at world.net (or awalsh at crl.com.au if you prefer) I *am* from here. Wanna make sumthin of it? ************************************************************* Return to table of contents
From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 02:34:28 -0500 Subject: STUPID!! >From: NOKOMAREE at aol.com >Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 04:04:56 -0400 >Subject: I can't believe the dumbness > >After 30 years of home brewing I can't believe the stupidity of the >conversation regarding priming a batch of beer. >What don't you understand? >All you do is dump 1 cup of corn sugar (OR 3/4 CUP OF CANE SUGAR) into a 5 >gallon batch and it carbonates! >What in the world is so hard about that?? >Why analyze it to death? >Are you really >STUPID???????? Gee, even Jethro appreciates the fact that he ain't very bright...but you , sir, should be reminded of 2 things; One : Aussie Rules... Rule Number 1: Remember Who your Mates Are..... Rule Number 2: Remember Who your Mates Aren't... Rule Number 3: KNOW THE BLOODY DIFFERENCE!!! And this rule, sir, goes to the depth of Jethro's heart!! If you don't know...you aren't worth it!!! Two : Remember who you are ...not where you are..... (That, sir, is if you are forgetting yourself!) Remember where you are..not who you are!! (That, sir, is in case you don't know the difference!!!) I'm sorry, sir, but we have a habit of dis-agreeing with our selves...and we are always ready to defend and re-assert our positions and our posts...."Lord, ain't it the truth...!!" BUT, I HAVE NEVER BEFORE SEEN ANYONE CALL SOMEONE "stupid" BEFORE..in all my years of HBD.... And I have only been around for a short while....only since 1988 or so... I have often dis-agreed...and had my points re-reality checked by others...but, this......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You may be the best...you may know your shit....but if I ever see this KIND OF CRAP again........I'm done!! JETHRO WON"T HAVE IT!!!.........TRY ME!!! Gentlemen and women...this is unreal...and unforgiveable! TELL ME I'M WRONG! "JETHRO (I DONT BELIEVE IT!!) GUMP" Cheers! Rob Moline Little Apple Brewing Company Manhattan, Kansas "The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about beer!" Return to table of contents
From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 02:40:47 -0500 Subject: STUPID!! "Can I have another piece of chocolate cake?" Jethro Cheers! Rob Moline Little Apple Brewing Company Manhattan, Kansas "The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about beer!" Return to table of contents
From: KennyEddy at aol.com Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 11:38:13 -0400 Subject: Light Brews / Bottle Priming of the Few Butch V asks: << I know that I'm in the minority, but can anyone recomend an extract which is not a heavy beer. I'm looking to brew a lighter type of beer for my better half. >> Many kits come with a relatively small amount of extract and call for lots of sugar, which often results in a thin, sometimes cidery brew. Most experienced brewers will tell you to augment a kit beer calling for sugar with malt extract instead. Normally great advice, but this will generally result in the fullest-bodied beer possible. What you need is a good compromise. Rice syrup is a good fermentable to use that will ferment cleanly without adding a lot of character. Honey can be used successfully, but unless you want a noticible honey flavor, keep it to a couple pounds or less (per five gal). And even our old nemesis corn sugar can be used without guilt if you keep it to maybe 10% of the total fermentables. For a five-gallon batch, try about 4 lb of pale malt extract syrup, and another 1-1/2 to 2 lb of any of these other fermentables, in whatever combination you desire (might I suggest 1 lb rice syrup and 1 lb honey?). Hop lightly, maybe 15 - 20 IBU of bittering hops. You can also use hopped extract, but since the extract will be "diluted" you'll need a well-hopped brand (~25 IBU per 4 lbs); ask your homebrew supplier. A small dose (1/4 - 1/2 oz) of finishing hops like Kent Goldings or Cascade (last 10 - 15 min of boil) for flavor/aroma will add a nice finish. Use distilled or RO water for the brew. Use a neutral and well-attenuating yeast (Danstar Nottingham [dry yeast; rehydrate in a sanitized glass of boiled/cooled water with some wort for up to an hour before pitching] or Wyeast American #1056 [liquid culture - -- see directions on package] would be appropriate). Keep your fermentation temperature between 65F and 70F to minimize fruitiness and off-flavors. ********* Steve Cloutier asks: << If one wishes to bottle only a few bottles from a batch, and keg the rest with force carbonation, and doesn't have a counterpressure bottle filler, what is the preferred method for accurately priming the individual bottles? >> Make a syrup of known concentration by boiling a cup of water with one ounce of corn sugar on the stove. Cool, then add one tablespoon of this syrup to each 12 oz bottle. Use a "baker's" measuring spoon and an accurate measuring cup. This is about the right concentration for 12 oz bottles; for 16 oz add 1 tblsp + 1 tsp; for 22 oz bottles add 1 tblsp + 2 tsp. This technique controls the concentration of sugar to provide consistent priming rates. The old "1 tsp per bottle" rule o'thumb can give variable results due to compaction of the sugar or inconsistent "scooping" technique from bottle-to-bottle. If you have an accurate gram scale you can add sugar directly to the bottle at the rate of 0.156 grams per ounce of bottled beer. The concentration above is equivalent to about 94 grams corn sugar per 5 gal, which according to Bill Giffin in HBD2106 should put you in the middle of his range for different styles (accounting for the required 25% increase for corn sugar compared with his cane sugar examples as he states). Increase or decrease the one ounce of sugar accordingly. ********** Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com http://users.aol/com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
From: cheryl <cherylc at nilenet.com> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 09:18:28 -0700 Subject: signoff signoff hombrew digest Return to table of contents
From: biohazrd at graceba.net (biohazrd) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 11:03:40 -0500 Subject: Extract Brewing Butch, you wrote: >I know that I'm in the minority, but can anyone recomend an extract which >is not heavy beer. I'm looking to brew a lighter type of beer for my better >half. This is the preceise reason I brew from all-grain. This is also how I got the equipment necessary to brew all-grain. I promised my wife that I would brew a beer to her specifications, whatever that was, If she would buy me the equipment (she had a part time job then and I wanted to help her spend the excess income.) Well, It worked, and I now frequently brew an ale we call "Piss Yeller". Its formulated like a lager but brewed like an ale and has a "beer" taste (much like an American Premium Lager but with body, flavor and alcohol). She's happy and I've got a great all-grain setup including Malt Mill, Brewpot, 135,000 BTU Burner, Carboys etc. Now to improve Piss Yeller, If only I could get some "Heart of the Hops....." :~})> Ron Montefusco Biohazard Brewery (Drink To Your Health) Return to table of contents
From: NOKOMAREE at aol.com Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 12:42:02 -0400 Subject: DUMB AND DUMBER AND DUMBER! My name is Noko Maree....don't mess with me. (Anyone get the reference? PROLLY NOT!) In any and all of my messages I have NEVER used a word harsher than dumb or stupid. I guess that those 2 words are quite effective. It happens to be a lot of fun to stir up a hornets nest. HOO! HAH! BOOGERS ALSO! Doen't you guys get it? I'm YANKING YOUR CHAIN! Its so easy its pathetic. Cool down and use your brains once in a while. When you are brewing do the sensible thing. Don't waste your time doing something dumb. Brewing is easy. It should be fun. OBVIOUSLY IT IS NOT FUN FOR QUITE A FEW OF YOU. SO...shut up and read a good homebrew book that tells you something sensible. And for those of you who are flaming me......COOL! That's exactly what I want.................You dummies need to show who you are and exactly how dumb you are..............especially the ones who are talking about my genitals (Originally-From: Jay Williams <jayw7 at airmail.net> He is most likely a really short guy with an smallish, dysfunctional penis) ....................By the way where'd you ever see my genitals???? Are you sure???? What sex am I??? DUMB! AND DUMBER! AND DUMBEST! Return to table of contents
From: Terry Smith <tsmith at tiac.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 12:50:51 -0400 Subject: NOKOMAREE at aol.com ' s comment on carbonation Dear NOKOMAREE at aol.com: I'm a lurker on HBD, but I'll comment anyhow. I think your message was completely misguided and inappropriate. The rude "stupid"s, "dumb"s, etc. are completely wrong - they're offensive to those who post and negate any valid points you might have. I read HBD to improve the quality and consistency of my beer. I've learned a lot from HBD, things that I apply every batch. The discussion of the intricacies of carbonation and alternative views is not only appropriate, it's welcome. It's for ME to review the discussion and decide whether it's important to me, not for YOU to decide for me. Your idea of "Don't analyze.......just do!" is completely wrongheaded. Anything we do might be improved from analyzing our materials and methods, and trying to improve them. -- Terry -- Return to table of contents
From: Mike Galvez <whs at hal.wf.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 13:07:09 -0500 Subject: Recipies on Cats Meow I am always looking for a good beer recipe. While surfing through The Cats Meow I noticed several recipies posted by authors who never brewed the recipe and other recipies noted as "undrinkable". Why publish a recipe that's "undrinkable"? I am new to HBD. Can someone shed some light on this? Return to table of contents
From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 13:38:00 -0500 Subject: UV light Gary writes: >>>>From my understanding of the issue, skunking is caused by exposure to UV light.>>>> I think we beat this one to death a while ago. UV light may skunk beer but not while in the bottle. Glass is UV opaque. Other wavelengths that can get through are primarily responsible for that bottle of skunked brew. Daniel Goodale (yes, that is my real name) The Biohazard Brewing Company I like to think of myself as a chemical super-freak. Return to table of contents
From: Marty Tippin <martyt at sky.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:04:23 -0500 Subject: Recipe: Improvisational Wheat Haven't seen any recipes in a while so thought I'd throw out one I recently invented and brewed that has turned out to be probably the best beer I've ever made. I made an 11 gallon batch so I could add raspberries to half of it for a raspberry wheat and have the other half as an American wheat. I was amazed at how well both came out and plan to do another batch when it cools off a little outside. Improvisational Wheat (for 11 gals - quantities can be safely halved for 5 gals) All-Grain, temperature-controlled step infusion mash. 3.0# Unmalted Wheat 3.5# Wheat Malt 8.0# Klages Malt 1.0# Carapils (Dextrine) Malt 1.5# Vienna Malt (I get about 88% conversion efficiency from my system so you may need to adjust the grain bill to reach the same OG.) BrewTek "American White Ale" CL-980; 1 gal starter built up from slant 2.5 oz. Tettnanger (whole) 4.3% boil 45 minutes 1.0 oz. E. Kent Golding (pellets) 4.5% boil 45 minutes (About 23 IBU total) Crush unmalted wheat separately from other grains. Add water to cover and boil 30 minutes, adding more water as necessary (the grains soak up a lot!). Stir often and watch for scorching. While wheat is cooking, mash-in remaining grains using abou 1.33 qt water per lb of grain at room temperature. Raise to 104F and hold 30 minutes. Add cooked wheat and raise temperature to 140F. Hold 45 minutes. Raise to 155F and hold 90 minutes or until conversion is complete. Mash-out at 168F for 10 minutes. Sparge at 168F pH 5.7 to collect 13 gallons for boiling. Boil 90 minutes, adding hops during last 45 minutes and 1 tbsp Irish Moss during last 15 minutes. Cool, aerate thoroughly and pitch yeast starter. Ferment 1 week at 68F, rack to secondary and ferment another 2 weeks at 68F Bottle with 3/4 cup of corn sugar per 5 gallons or keg and force carbonate to 2.5 atmospheres. OG 1.049 -- FG 1.006 To make a raspberry wheat from half the batch, I added 5 lbs of raspberries (purchased frozen, thawed to room temperature and mashed with a potato masher) to a large fermenter and racked half of the batch into it after the secondary fermentation was complete. This fermented another two weeks before bottling with 3/4 cup of corn sugar. FG after raspberry fermentation was 1.001 (!) The American Wheat half of the batch has a nice citrusy flavor and is quite cloudy (which I wanted). The raspberry half is a deep red color, and has a magnificent raspberry aroma and pronounced raspberry flavor. It had a real alcohol bite for several weeks after bottling (due to the SG drop from 1.049 to 1.001) but has mellowed quite nicely in the last month or so - it still packs quite a kick though! - -Marty ======================================================================= Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #8: No matter where you martyt at sky.net (preferred) | are, you can always tune in a bad martyt at geoaccess.com | radio station. http://www.sky.net/~martyt/2tier.html ======================================================================= Return to table of contents
From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 16:33:56 -0500 Subject: Jethro Apologizes Please accept my apologies. I was very angry. Rob Cheers! Rob Moline Little Apple Brewing Company Manhattan, Kansas "The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about beer!" Return to table of contents
From: biohazrd at graceba.net (biohazrd) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:07:15 -0500 Subject: Wit Beer Ingredients To: The Collective Can someone help us? All this HBD talk of Wit beer and a recent excursion to a top notch brewpub has inspired us to creat a Wit of our own,. The problem is, where does one find unmalted wheat and Curaco Orange Peel? None of my homebrew catalogs list these ingredients. Thanks in advance Ron and Sharon Montefusco Biohazrd Brewery (Drink to Your Health) biohazrd at graceba.net Return to table of contents
From: Jay Williams <jayw7 at airmail.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:16:58 -0500 Subject: Apology to NOKMAREE In my most recent posting to the digest about NOKOMAREE's posting, I resorted to attacks that were of a personal nature. I regret making those comments, and wish to apologize. The homebrew digest has always been a forum where beginning brewers can ask "silly" questions of more experienced brewers without being ridiculed. While the questioon may silly may silly to some, the beginning brewer would not ask them if he knew the answer. I have had many questions answered by more experienced brewers that have helped me t9o become a better brewer. Once again, I apoligize for my earier remarks. Jay Williams Return to table of contents
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:24:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: NOKOMAREE at aol.com I vote that Shawn unsubscribes NOKOMAREE at aol.com. Anyone else agree? The Internet has a long and noble history of self-policing. The U.S.A. also has a long history of citizens policing themselves, "posse comitatus", private citizens pressed into law-enforcement service as a "posse". I believe that AOL not only charges by connect time but by email volume. Perhaps we should all let NOKOMAREE know what we think of his attitude. Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
From: Glenn & Kristina Matthies <borst at localnet.com> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 19:51:10 -0400 Subject: Mold in beer Once upon a time I brewed a 5 gal batch of Pale Ale. I racked to the secondary and placed the carboy in my basement. Warmer weather and the need to paint my house soon came. The basement is cool and damp. One day I noticed some white mold in the top of the carboy. I removed the cap and was greated with a "cidery" smell. I was annoyed and busy so I put the cap/airlock back on and ignored it for a month or so. Today I finally got around to dumping my "ruined" beer. After I dumped about 3 quarts, I decided to taste the beer. I have never tasted a beer infected by mold and was curious. To my surprise, it tasted very much like a pale ale. No taste of infection. My question: Since the beer is not ruined, can I bottle it? Will the infection return once in the bottle? Is there something I can add to the beer to insure the mold won't return? TIA Glenn Glenn & Kristina Matthies Lockport, NY borst at localnet.com Glenn's Buffalo Beer Page http://www.localnet.com/~borst/index.html Return to table of contents
From: shyguy <shyguy at vdot.net> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 22:48:05 -0700 Subject: Water bottles I'm new to the group, have followed some of the links, and maybe missed any FAQ's. So this might be the resurrection of an old thread. I've seen some discussion of what to use for a secondary, but is there any pro/con to using empty commercial water bottles? The type seen in many offices? IMHO, something that held water, rather than spackle or pickles should be better. I've been using glass carboys for both steps, but my back ain't what it used to be, and I figure the glass is better for the first, since the wort is still pretty warm, and plastic is ok for the second. any opinions? Plus, I can get the plastic ones free from the guy at the office. Return to table of contents
From: Jim Overstreet <wa5dxp at worldnet.att.net> Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 12:59:48 GMT Subject: Thermostats, Lagering Equipment My vote for best thermostat for refrigerators and freezers is the model 2E740 "Remote Bulb Thermostat" from W.W. Grangers. I have used several of them for years, no problems. Here are some specs: Temp Range: -30=B0 - 90=B0F Temp. Diff: 3.5=B0 - 40=B0F Contacts: 16 Amps at 120V SPST, Close on temp rise Capillary: 8 Ft. long. Cost: about $35.00 On the decision whether to go upright or chest freezer, definitely chest. Sam's Wholesale has an Estate brand, 15 ft3, for under $300. The thermostat is very easy to modify as the leads come out of the back up to the top of the unit, where the thermostat is located. This unit holds 7 - 5 gallon and 1 or 2 3-gallon kegs. These units are made in Canada, and appear to be sold under different brand names; as one of our club members received one for an anniversary gift (what an understanding wife) with the Fridgidare= label on it. Buzzard's Roost Nano-Brewery Originators of the exclusive "Plywood Aging Process" Return to table of contents

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