---

   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  Odor removal (m.bryson2 at genie.com)
  NOKOMAREE at aob.org  has pissed me off! (Jay Williams)
  Wheeler's Porter...part 1 (Rob Moline)
  Wheeler's Porter, part 2 (Rob Moline)
  Wheeler's Porter (Rob Moline)
  re: Invert sugar/honey ((Dick Dunn))
  Two Dogs Lemonade ((Andy Walsh))
  STUPID!! (Rob Moline)
  STUPID!! (Rob Moline)
  Light Brews / Bottle Priming of the Few (KennyEddy at aol.com)
  signoff (cheryl)
  Extract Brewing ((biohazrd))
  DUMB AND DUMBER AND DUMBER! (NOKOMAREE at aol.com)
  NOKOMAREE at aol.com ' s comment on carbonation (Terry Smith)
  Recipies on Cats Meow (Mike Galvez)
  UV light ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
  Recipe: Improvisational Wheat (Marty Tippin)
  Jethro Apologizes (Rob Moline)
  Wit Beer Ingredients ((biohazrd))
  Apology to NOKMAREE (Jay Williams)
  NOKOMAREE at aol.com (Domenick Venezia)
  Mold in beer (Glenn & Kristina Matthies)
  Water bottles (shyguy)
  Thermostats, Lagering Equipment (Jim Overstreet)

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: m.bryson2 at genie.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 96 00:00:00 UTC 0000
Subject: Odor removal

   Derrick: 
 
An old method( still very functional) is to leave the bucket out in the 
sunshine for a few days. From my own experience, I can tell you that it 
works well at eliminating odors from plastic. 
 
   Hope this helps. 
 
        Matthew Bryson 

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From: Jay Williams <jayw7 at airmail.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 21:45:11  -0500
Subject: NOKOMAREE at aob.org  has pissed me off!

>>From: NOKOMAREE at aol.com 
 
>>Don't be dumb! Just do it! 
What's wrong with lots of you? 
Gelatin.................beverage settler? 
Just mix 2 large Tablespoons with 1 cup of corn sugar (dry, yes mix them dry) 
 
stir (dry, yes, stir them dry) and then sprinkle into a cup of boiling water. 
 
 It will dissolve completely  & immediately. Add to your primer and bottle 
like nornal. 
That's all! No extra steps!  Don't analyze anything! Just do it! 
Are you all really so dumb? 
>>Don't analyze.......just do! 
 
This gentleman hopefully has his flame shields up.  He is most likely a 
really short guy with an smallish, dysfunctional penis, and has a smallish, 
dysfunctional brain to match. 
 
Since his obvious desire is to disrupt the homebrew digest, all future flames 
will be directed at the intended target!  Hopefully, you will do the same. 
 
Sincerely 
 
Jay Williams 

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From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:52:53 -0500
Subject: Wheeler's Porter...part 1

>From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> 
>Subject: Porter 
>>        The following is re-printed here,by permission of the publisher of 
"Homebrew Today,"Evelyn Barrett, and the author, Graham Wheeler. 
>> 
>>        "Old-Time London Porter" 
>>        London porter has its origins in the brown ale and brown beer 
traditions that go back to the historical roots of British brewing. 
>>        Brown beers and brown ales were made from a type of malt known as 
brown malt, which was a smoked malt. In early brewing practice, when the 
malt was being dried or roasted in the kiln at the end of the malting 
process, the cheapest and in most cases the only form of fuel available to 
fire the kilns was locally gethered wood; green hardwoods such as oak, ash, 
beech or hornbeam. During drying, phenol carried by the wood smoke became 
absorbed in the malt, giving it a smoky character as a result. 
>>        The term, brown, referred more to the outward appearance of the 
malt after the smoke condensate had settled on it, rather than the colour it 
imparted to the beer. Just about all beers were made from brown malt up 
until the early 1800's.The smoking phase of malt production was considered 
an essential part of the malting process, as it still is today with whiskey 
malt production. 
>>        Strong brown ales were the most popular drinks in Britain until 
heavy taxation started to hit ales and made them unaffordable. In 1692 the 
government increased beer tax, a form of sales tax on beer, to finance a 
punch-up with the French. This increase alone caused consumption to fall by 
27 percent. Furthermore, the tax was disproportionate; the tax on ale was 
four times that on beer. The taxes were again increased in 1694, 1697, 1786 
(1706?, Jethro's comment), and 1711, but by 1711 the brewers were faced with 
a malt tax, a hop tax and the disproportionate sales tax previously 
mentioned. The malt tax, for instance, increased the price of malt by 260 
percent. All this, coupled with the fact that the sale tax on ale was 4 
times that on beer, made the strong ales and common ales of the day 
prohibitively expensive and people were forced towards cheaper and weaker 
beer and cheaper gin. The legal distinction bteween ale and beer was purely 
on strength. 
>>        Even the beer brewers were forced to weaken their products and hop 
them more heavily to compensate.  In those days, it was customary for ales 
and beers to be matured for relatively long periods; freshly brewed beer was 
harsh, bitter and horrible. During maturation the harsher flavors mellowed, 
but with extended maturation it was found that the new weaker, but more 
heavily hopped beers developed a type of sourness that was not unpleasant. 
London drinkers developed a liking for this background sourness and 
publicans tapped anything up to 6 casks of different ages, and thus of 
different degrees of sourness, in order to allow their customers to choose 
the degree of sourness that best suited their tastes. 
>>        It was not long before it was realized that fresh, immature beer, 
straight from the brewery, blended with various proportions of a long 
matured, heavily soured beer, achieved the same ends, and drinkers took to 
ordering a mixture of "mild" and "stale" in proportions that best suited 
their palates. 
>>        "Mild" in old time parlance meant freshly brewed beer, virtually 
straight out of the brewery, which had not been matured for any length of 
time; it had nothing to do with hop rate or colour- those characteristics 
that seem to be the modern understanding of the term. "Stale" in old time 
parlance was the same beer that had been matured for a year or much longer 
and had turned sour. It was the mixing by the drinker, in his tankard, of a 
small proportion of stale beer with a larger quantity of mild beer, that was 
the foundation of London porter. This produced a cheap, relatively weak beer 
that drank like a stronger old beer. 
>>        "Stale" was an important ingredient,but the brewers of the day had 
modest businesses by todays standards and they could not afford to mature 
the beer themselves. Brewers made only mild (immature) beer and did not hold 
stocks. Initially, it was the publican's job to take his own casks to the 
brewery to be filled and it was his job to mature the beer for an 
appropriate length of time. It took a year or longer to sour good "stale" 
beer, but the cost of the casks and the formidably high taxation that had to 
be paid on the nail by the brewer, meant that neither brewer nor publican 
could afford the capital outlay required to mature a year or more's supply 
of beer. This brought about what is probably the earliest form of commercial 
factoring. According to one contemporary writer; "Moneyed people made a 
trade of purchasing their hopped beers at the first hand, keeping them some 
time and when stale to dispose of the same to publicans." These moneyed 
people charged well for their services; mild beer retailed at twopence per 
quart and stale beer at fourpence per quart, even though both types of beer 
started out in life as exactly the same stuff. One hundred percent was an 
incredible profit in the days when a return on capital of five percent per 
annum was considered handsome. 
>>        This, of course, angered the brewers who worked for a pittance of 
a markup, and paid formidably high taxes out of what they received, only to 
find some rich sod doubling his money on the back of their labours. It was 
obvious that this state of affairs could not last for ever and the brewers 
themselves would want a piece of the action. From the 1720's onwards brewers 
gradually took to maturing the beer themselves as capital surpluses 
permitted, probably by brewers who were prepared to age beer for a much more 
modest profit than 100 percent, and this was the foundation of the great 
London porter breweries. 
>>        Thus the original London porter was invented by the people of 
London, the collective drinking public, and not by Ralph Harwood as many 
people assert. It would have been brownish in colour and translucent, not 
jet black. It would have had a rich smoky flavour derived from the brown 
malt, and a pleasant winey aftertang caused by the deliberate souring. Some 
types of porter, known as "Entire" were mixtures of mild and stale, blended 
at the brewery and supplied in one cask, but this did not suit all palates 
and by far the majority of London porter was supplied in two casks and mixed 
by the drinker. 
 
Cheers! 
Rob Moline 
Little Apple Brewing Company 
Manhattan, Kansas 
 
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about 
beer!"
 

Return to table of contents


From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:52:59 -0500
Subject: Wheeler's Porter, part 2

                Wheeler's Porter, part 2 
 
>        The stale or sour component of porter is a hard concept for modern 
people to come to terms with, and most historians and beer writers, when 
they come across references to it in the literature, seize on this and fly 
into diatribes about poor hygiene and unscrupulous landlords adulterating 
their beer with spoilt slops, but nothing could be further from the truth. 
The stale component was an essential ingredient, the secret ingredient, 
which in fact cost twice the price of unsoured beer, and was the foundation 
of the whole porter phenonmenon. 
>        Of course, only a small amount of stale was blended with mild to 
achieve the agreeable winey tang, so porter was still a relatively cheap 
drink at threepence per quart; the common ales and striong ales of the day 
were 1/- and 1/6 per bottle respectively---four to six times the price, 
although I don't know how big a bottle was, probably a quart. 
>        300 years later it is hard to judge what type of sourness was 
predominant or, indeed, what the souring organisms were. Fortunately, there 
is one beer in the world that is still made the same way as porter in an 
unbroken tradition. This is the Belgian Rodenbach, which has it's origins in 
London Porter, and is itself a blend of a sour beer, stored for 18 months in 
large oak vats, and a relatively fresh beer that is only a month or so old. 
Furthermore they also sell the sour or "stale" beer on it's own, under the 
name of Rodenbach Grand Cru. 
>        Neither beer seems to me to be as sour as they were just a few 
years  ago, the brewery have probably toned them down to reach a wider 
market, but nevertheless the sourness of Grand Cru is not unpleasant. It has 
flavors of both acetic and citric acidity, providing a sourness which is 
quite mellow. It is nothing like the back-shuddering sourness of badly kept 
beer in the pub that many people regard as vinegary. Perhaps the souring 
microbe are different, or it may be that extended maturation also mellows 
the sourness that develops so that it becomes less harsh and less assertive. 
Most people do not find the taste of vinegar unpleasant, as observation of 
the habits of people in fish and chip shops will confirm, so it should be no 
surprise that an acetic beer can be quite pleasant. It is said that about 
twenty micro-organisms contribute to the sourness of Rodenbach. 
Unfortunately, it is not made from smoked malt these days, but nevertheless, 
it does give us some idea of what old time London porter must have tasted like.
>        The newly introduced Guinness "Harwood's Porter" breaks history on 
two grounds. Not only is it the first cask conditioned beer ever to be made 
at the Park Royal Brewery, but it is the only example of the new generation 
of porters that is a proper porter; a blend of mild and stale like old time 
porters used to be. Deep in the Dublin brewery, Guinness still have their 
huge oak souring vats, and sour beer from these is shipped to Park Royal to 
be blended with freshly brewed beer. The added sour beer is probably very 
miniscule to suit modern tastes, but nevertheless it is still a proper porter. 
>        Over the next 150 years, porter evolved considerably from these 
early beginnings, but that is another story." 
> 
>        Reprinted with permission from "Homebrew Today," Subcriptions 7.50 
pound sterling, 4 issues yearly, 4 Lytles Close, Formby, Liverpool, L37 4BT, 
UK. 
> 
 
Cheers! 
Rob Moline 
Little Apple Brewing Company 
Manhattan, Kansas 
 
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about 
beer!"
 

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From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 23:12:15 -0500
Subject: Wheeler's Porter

Hope you like it..the post's were 19 to none.... 
 
Jethro... 
 
Cheers! 
Rob Moline 
Little Apple Brewing Company 
Manhattan, Kansas 
 
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about 
beer!"
 

Return to table of contents


From: rcd at raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn)
Date: 19 Jul 96 22:59:34 MDT (Fri)
Subject: re: Invert sugar/honey

John Wilkinson <jwilkins at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com> wrote, _inter_alia_: 
>...The thing I wonder about, though, is why honey is said to take longer to 
> ferment than malt if it is mostly glucose and fructose?  Shouldn't they be 
> more readily fermentable than maltose since the yeast has to break down 
> maltose into glucose just as it has to break down sucrose into glucose 
> and fructose?  Or am I off in left field here? 
 
No, you've got the idea right...honey itself is quite fermentable.  (The 
effect of adding honey to a beer is to make it more "crisp"--because the 
honey ferments out completely, leaving little residual character.)  The 
non-fermentable parts of honey are negligible...given a good chance, honey 
will ferment out far better than malt. 
 
The catch is that honey, by itself, doesn't contain the nutrients that 
yeast need to be happy about fermenting.  Honey as an additive to beer 
ferments just fine; honey by itself (as in a traditional mead, for example) 
ferments reluctantly and slowly.  Mead-makers have to think more carefully 
about nutrients. 
_ _ _ _ _ 
 
As long as I'm writing...to the folks who have been too polite to comment 
on NOKOMAREE at aol.com, yes, it's either a massive troll or someone who is at 
the needs-help-to-drool level of brewing.  The clue is that "it" (don't you 
love how aol.com, like Romulans, cloak their losers?;-) not only doesn't 
even know how to measure priming sugar (weight _vs_ volume) but gives the 
wrong amount in the wrong units.  A cup of corn sugar?!?  Old Face-full, 
anyone?  Bet that nokomaree disappears after its junk-mail free trial sub- 
scription to aol.com expires. 
- --- 
Dick Dunn         rcd at talisman.com         Boulder County, Colorado  USA 

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From: awalsh at world.net (Andy Walsh)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:44:33 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Two Dogs Lemonade

Anybody wishing to know the joke that the name of Two Dogs Lemonade was 
based on can contact me privately. I warn you that some may find this joke 
offensive. If you think you might be one of these people, do not contact me. 
Anyone who flames me for sending them the joke after they asked me for it 
will be ignored. 
 
Also, a message to Jethro Gump. 
Please post your Wheeler porter thing on the HBD (you knew you would, didn't 
you?) 
 
Andy. 
************************************************************* 
Wohlgemuth Walsh from Sydney 
email: awalsh at world.net (or awalsh at crl.com.au if you prefer) 
I *am* from here. Wanna make sumthin of it? 
************************************************************* 
 

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From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 02:34:28 -0500
Subject: STUPID!!

>From: NOKOMAREE at aol.com 
>Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 04:04:56 -0400 
>Subject: I can't believe the dumbness 
> 
>After 30 years of home brewing I can't believe the stupidity of the 
>conversation regarding priming a batch of beer. 
>What don't you understand? 
>All you do is dump 1 cup of corn sugar (OR 3/4 CUP OF CANE SUGAR) into a 5 
>gallon batch and it carbonates! 
>What in the world is so hard about that?? 
>Why analyze it to death? 
>Are you really 
>STUPID???????? 
 
 
        Gee, even Jethro appreciates the fact that he ain't very 
bright...but you , sir, should be reminded of 2 things; 
 
One :   Aussie Rules... 
        Rule Number 1: Remember Who your Mates Are..... 
        Rule Number 2: Remember Who your Mates Aren't... 
        Rule Number 3: KNOW THE BLOODY DIFFERENCE!!! 
 
        And this rule, sir, goes to the depth of Jethro's heart!! 
        If you don't know...you aren't worth it!!! 
 
Two :   Remember who you are ...not where you are..... 
        (That, sir, is if you are forgetting yourself!) 
        Remember where you are..not who you are!! 
        (That, sir, is in case you don't know the difference!!!) 
 
I'm sorry, sir, but we have a habit of dis-agreeing with our selves...and we 
are always ready to defend and re-assert our positions and our 
posts...."Lord, ain't it the truth...!!" 
 
         BUT, I HAVE NEVER BEFORE SEEN ANYONE CALL SOMEONE "stupid" 
BEFORE..in all my years of HBD.... And I have only been around for a short 
while....only since 1988 or so... I have often dis-agreed...and had my 
points re-reality checked by others...but, this......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
 
        You may be the best...you may know your shit....but if I ever see 
this KIND OF CRAP again........I'm done!! 
 
        JETHRO WON"T HAVE IT!!!.........TRY ME!!! 
 
Gentlemen and women...this is unreal...and unforgiveable! TELL ME I'M WRONG! 
 
"JETHRO (I DONT BELIEVE IT!!) GUMP" 
 
Cheers! 
Rob Moline 
Little Apple Brewing Company 
Manhattan, Kansas 
 
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about 
beer!"
 

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From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 02:40:47 -0500
Subject: STUPID!!

        "Can I have another piece of chocolate cake?" 
Jethro 
 
Cheers! 
Rob Moline 
Little Apple Brewing Company 
Manhattan, Kansas 
 
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about 
beer!"
 

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From: KennyEddy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 11:38:13 -0400
Subject: Light Brews / Bottle Priming of the Few

Butch V asks: 
 
<< 
I know that I'm in the minority, but can anyone recomend an extract which 
is not a heavy beer. I'm looking to brew a lighter type of beer for my better 
 
half. 
>> 
 
Many kits come with a relatively small amount of extract and call for lots of 
sugar, which often results in a thin, sometimes cidery brew.  Most 
experienced brewers will tell you to augment a kit beer calling for sugar 
with malt extract instead.  Normally great advice, but this will generally 
result in the fullest-bodied beer possible.  What you need is a good 
compromise. 
 
Rice syrup is a good fermentable to use that will ferment cleanly without 
adding a lot of character.  Honey can be used successfully, but unless you 
want a noticible honey flavor, keep it to a couple pounds or less (per five 
gal).  And even our old nemesis corn sugar can be used without guilt if you 
keep it to maybe 10% of the total fermentables. 
 
For a five-gallon batch, try about 4 lb of pale malt extract syrup, and 
another 1-1/2 to 2 lb of any of these other fermentables, in whatever 
combination you desire (might I suggest 1 lb rice syrup and 1 lb honey?). 
 Hop lightly, maybe 15 - 20 IBU of bittering hops.   You can also use hopped 
extract, but since the extract will be "diluted" you'll need a well-hopped 
brand (~25 IBU per 4 lbs); ask your homebrew supplier.  A small dose (1/4 - 
1/2 oz) of finishing hops like Kent Goldings or Cascade (last 10 - 15 min of 
boil) for flavor/aroma will add a nice finish.  Use distilled or RO water for 
the brew.  Use a neutral and well-attenuating yeast (Danstar Nottingham [dry 
yeast; rehydrate in a sanitized glass of boiled/cooled water with some wort 
for up to an hour before pitching] or Wyeast American #1056 [liquid culture 
- -- see directions on package] would be appropriate).  Keep your fermentation 
temperature between 65F and 70F to minimize fruitiness and off-flavors. 
 
********* 
 
Steve Cloutier asks: 
 
<< 
If one wishes to bottle only a few bottles from a batch, and keg the rest 
with force carbonation, and doesn't have a counterpressure bottle filler, 
what is the preferred method for accurately priming the individual bottles? 
>> 
 
Make a syrup of known concentration by boiling a cup of water with one ounce 
of corn sugar on the stove.  Cool, then add one tablespoon of this syrup to 
each 12 oz bottle.  Use a "baker's" measuring spoon and an accurate measuring 
cup.  This is about the right concentration for 12 oz bottles; for 16 oz add 
1 tblsp + 1 tsp; for 22 oz bottles add 1 tblsp + 2 tsp.  This technique 
controls the concentration of sugar to provide consistent priming rates.  The 
old "1 tsp per bottle" rule o'thumb can give variable results due to 
compaction of the sugar or inconsistent "scooping" technique from 
bottle-to-bottle.  If you have an accurate gram scale you can add sugar 
directly to the bottle at the rate of 0.156 grams per ounce of bottled beer. 
 
The concentration above is equivalent to about 94 grams corn sugar per 5 gal, 
which according to Bill Giffin in HBD2106 should put you in the middle of his 
range for different styles (accounting for the required 25% increase for corn 
sugar compared with his cane sugar examples as he states).  Increase or 
decrease the one ounce of sugar accordingly. 
 
********** 
 
Ken Schwartz 
KennyEddy at aol.com 
http://users.aol/com/kennyeddy 

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From: cheryl <cherylc at nilenet.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 09:18:28 -0700
Subject: signoff

signoff hombrew digest 

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From: biohazrd at graceba.net (biohazrd)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 11:03:40 -0500
Subject: Extract Brewing

 
Butch, you wrote: 
 
>I know that I'm in the minority, but can anyone recomend an extract which 
 
>is not heavy beer. I'm looking to brew a lighter type of beer for my 
better 
>half. 
 
This is the preceise reason I brew from all-grain.  This is also how I got 
the equipment necessary to brew all-grain.  I promised my wife that I 
would brew a beer to her specifications, whatever that was, If she would 
buy me the equipment (she had a part time job then and I wanted to help 
her spend the excess income.)  Well, It worked, and I now frequently brew 
an ale we call "Piss Yeller".  Its formulated like a lager but brewed like 
an ale and has a "beer" taste (much like an American Premium Lager but 
with body, flavor and alcohol).  She's happy and I've got a great 
all-grain setup including Malt Mill, Brewpot, 135,000 BTU Burner, Carboys 
etc. 
 
Now to improve Piss Yeller, If only I could get some "Heart of the 
Hops....." :~})> 
 
Ron Montefusco 
Biohazard Brewery 
(Drink To Your Health) 

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From: NOKOMAREE at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 12:42:02 -0400
Subject: DUMB AND DUMBER AND DUMBER!

My name is Noko Maree....don't mess with me. 
(Anyone get the reference? PROLLY NOT!) 
In any and all of my messages I have NEVER used a word harsher than dumb or 
stupid. 
I guess that those 2 words are quite effective. 
It happens to be a lot of fun to stir up a hornets nest. 
HOO! HAH! 
BOOGERS ALSO! 
Doen't you guys get it? 
I'm YANKING YOUR CHAIN! 
Its so easy its pathetic. 
Cool down and use your brains once in a while. 
When you are brewing do the sensible thing. 
Don't waste your time doing something dumb. 
Brewing is easy. 
It should be fun. 
OBVIOUSLY IT IS NOT FUN FOR QUITE A FEW OF YOU. 
SO...shut up and read a good homebrew book that tells you something sensible. 
And for those of you who are flaming me......COOL! That's exactly what I 
want.................You dummies need to show who you are and exactly how 
dumb you are..............especially the ones who are talking about my 
genitals 
(Originally-From:  Jay Williams <jayw7 at airmail.net> 
 He is most likely a 
really short guy with an smallish, dysfunctional penis) 
....................By the way where'd you ever see my genitals???? Are you 
sure???? 
What sex am I??? 
DUMB! AND DUMBER! AND DUMBEST! 

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From: Terry Smith <tsmith at tiac.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 12:50:51 -0400
Subject: NOKOMAREE at aol.com ' s comment on carbonation

  Dear NOKOMAREE at aol.com: 
 
  I'm a lurker on HBD, but I'll comment anyhow.  I think your message was 
completely misguided and inappropriate.  The rude "stupid"s, "dumb"s, etc. 
are completely wrong - they're offensive to those who post and negate any 
valid points you might have. 
 
  I read HBD to improve the quality and consistency of my beer.  I've 
learned a lot from HBD, things that I apply every batch.   The discussion of 
the intricacies of carbonation and alternative views is not only 
appropriate, it's welcome. 
 
  It's for ME to review the discussion and decide whether it's important to 
me, not for YOU to decide for me. 
 
  Your idea of "Don't analyze.......just do!" is completely wrongheaded. 
Anything we do might be improved from analyzing our materials and methods, 
and trying to improve them. 
 
 
 -- Terry -- 
 

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From: Mike Galvez <whs at hal.wf.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 13:07:09 -0500
Subject: Recipies on Cats Meow

I am always looking for a good beer recipe. While surfing through The Cats Meow
I
noticed several recipies posted by authors who never brewed the recipe and 
other
recipies noted as "undrinkable". Why publish a recipe that's "undrinkable"? I 
am new to
HBD. Can someone shed some light on this? 

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From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 13:38:00 -0500
Subject: UV light

Gary writes: 
 
>>>>From my understanding of the issue, skunking is 
caused by exposure to UV light.>>>> 
 
I think we beat this one to death a while ago.  UV light 
may skunk beer but not while in the bottle.  Glass is 
UV opaque.  Other wavelengths that can get through 
are primarily responsible for that bottle of skunked 
brew. 
 
Daniel Goodale (yes, that is my real name) 
 
The Biohazard Brewing Company 
I like to think of myself as a chemical super-freak. 

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From: Marty Tippin <martyt at sky.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:04:23 -0500
Subject: Recipe: Improvisational Wheat

Haven't seen any recipes in a while so thought I'd throw out one I recently 
invented and brewed that has turned out to be probably the best beer I've 
ever made.  I made an 11 gallon batch so I could add raspberries to half of 
it for a raspberry wheat and have the other half as an American wheat.  I 
was amazed at how well both came out and plan to do another batch when it 
cools off a little outside. 
 
Improvisational Wheat 
(for 11 gals - quantities can be safely halved for 5 gals) 
All-Grain, temperature-controlled step infusion mash. 
 
 
3.0# Unmalted Wheat 
3.5# Wheat Malt 
8.0# Klages Malt 
1.0# Carapils (Dextrine) Malt 
1.5# Vienna Malt 
(I get about 88% conversion efficiency from my system so you may need to 
adjust the grain bill to reach the same OG.) 
 
BrewTek "American White Ale" CL-980; 1 gal starter built up from slant 
 
2.5 oz. Tettnanger (whole) 4.3%  boil 45 minutes 
1.0 oz. E. Kent Golding (pellets) 4.5% boil 45 minutes 
(About 23 IBU total) 
 
Crush unmalted wheat separately from other grains.  Add water to cover and 
boil 30 minutes, adding more water as necessary (the grains soak up a lot!). 
Stir often and watch for scorching. 
 
While wheat is cooking, mash-in remaining grains using abou 1.33 qt water 
per lb of grain at room temperature.  Raise to 104F and hold 30 minutes. 
 
Add cooked wheat and raise temperature to 140F.  Hold 45 minutes.  Raise to 
155F and hold 90 minutes or until conversion is complete.  Mash-out at 168F 
for 10 minutes. 
 
Sparge at 168F pH 5.7 to collect 13 gallons for boiling. 
 
Boil 90 minutes, adding hops during last 45 minutes and 1 tbsp Irish Moss 
during last 15 minutes.  Cool, aerate thoroughly and pitch yeast starter. 
 
Ferment 1 week at 68F, rack to secondary and ferment another 2 weeks at 68F 
 
Bottle with 3/4 cup of corn sugar per 5 gallons or keg and force carbonate 
to 2.5 atmospheres. 
 
OG 1.049 -- FG 1.006 
 
To make a raspberry wheat from half the batch, I added 5 lbs of raspberries 
(purchased frozen, thawed to room temperature and mashed with a potato 
masher) to a large fermenter and racked half of the batch into it after the 
secondary fermentation was complete.  This fermented another two weeks 
before bottling with 3/4 cup of corn sugar.  FG after raspberry fermentation 
was 1.001 (!) 
 
The American Wheat half of the batch has a nice citrusy flavor and is quite 
cloudy (which I wanted).  The raspberry half is a deep red color, and has a 
magnificent raspberry aroma and pronounced raspberry flavor.  It had a real 
alcohol bite for several weeks after bottling (due to the SG drop from 1.049 
to 1.001) but has mellowed quite nicely in the last month or so - it still 
packs quite a kick though! 
 
- -Marty 
======================================================================= 
Marty Tippin                 |  Tippin's Law #8: No matter where you 
martyt at sky.net (preferred)   |    are, you can always tune in a bad 
martyt at geoaccess.com         |    radio station. 
http://www.sky.net/~martyt/2tier.html 
======================================================================= 
 

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From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 16:33:56 -0500
Subject: Jethro Apologizes

Please accept my apologies. I was very angry. 
Rob 
 
Cheers! 
Rob Moline 
Little Apple Brewing Company 
Manhattan, Kansas 
 
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about 
beer!"
 

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From: biohazrd at graceba.net (biohazrd)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:07:15 -0500
Subject: Wit Beer Ingredients

To:  The Collective 
 
Can someone help us?  All this HBD talk of Wit beer and a recent excursion 
to a top notch brewpub has inspired us to creat a Wit of our own,.  The 
problem is, where does one find unmalted wheat and Curaco Orange Peel? 
None of my homebrew catalogs list these ingredients. 
 
Thanks in advance 
 
Ron and Sharon Montefusco 
Biohazrd Brewery 
(Drink to Your Health) 
 
biohazrd at graceba.net 

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From: Jay Williams <jayw7 at airmail.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 17:16:58  -0500
Subject: Apology to NOKMAREE

 
In my most recent posting to the digest about NOKOMAREE's posting, I 
resorted to attacks that were of a personal nature.  I regret making those 
comments, and wish to apologize. 
 
The homebrew digest has always been a forum where beginning brewers can ask 
"silly" questions of more experienced brewers without being ridiculed. While 
the questioon may silly may silly to some, the beginning brewer would not 
ask them if he knew the answer.  I have had many questions answered by more 
experienced brewers that have helped me t9o become a better brewer. 
 
Once again, I apoligize for my earier remarks. 
 
Jay Williams 

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From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:24:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: NOKOMAREE at aol.com

 
I vote that Shawn unsubscribes NOKOMAREE at aol.com.  Anyone else agree?  The 
Internet has a long and noble history of self-policing.  The U.S.A. also 
has a long history of citizens policing themselves, "posse comitatus", 
private citizens pressed into law-enforcement service as a "posse".  I 
believe that AOL not only charges by connect time but by email volume. 
Perhaps we should all let NOKOMAREE know what we think of his attitude. 
 
Domenick Venezia 
Computer Resources 
ZymoGenetics, Inc. 
Seattle, WA 
venezia at zgi.com 
 
 

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From: Glenn & Kristina Matthies <borst at localnet.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 19:51:10 -0400
Subject: Mold in beer

Once upon a time I brewed a 5 gal batch of Pale Ale.   I racked to the 
secondary and placed the carboy in my basement.  Warmer weather and the need 
to paint my house soon came.  The basement is cool and damp.  One day I 
noticed some white mold in the top of the carboy.  I removed the cap and was 
greated with a "cidery" smell.  I was annoyed and busy so I put the 
cap/airlock back on and ignored it for a month or so.  Today I finally got 
around to dumping my "ruined" beer.  After I dumped about 3 quarts, I 
decided to taste the beer.  I have never tasted a beer infected by mold and 
was curious.  To my surprise, it tasted very much like a pale ale.  No taste 
of infection.  My question: Since the beer is not ruined, can I bottle it? 
Will the infection return once in the bottle?  Is there something I can add 
to the beer to insure the mold won't return?  TIA 
Glenn 
Glenn & Kristina Matthies 
Lockport, NY 
borst at localnet.com 
 
Glenn's Buffalo Beer Page 
http://www.localnet.com/~borst/index.html 
 

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From: shyguy <shyguy at vdot.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 22:48:05 -0700
Subject: Water bottles

I'm new to the group, have followed some of the links, and maybe missed any 
FAQ's. So this might be the
resurrection of an old thread. I've seen some discussion of what to use for a 
secondary, but is there any
pro/con to using empty commercial water bottles? The type seen in many offices?
 
IMHO, something that held water, rather than spackle or pickles should be 
better. I've been using glass carboys
for both steps, but my back ain't what it used to be, and I figure the glass is
better for the first, since the
wort is still pretty warm, and plastic is ok for the second. any opinions? 
Plus, I can get the plastic ones
free from the guy at the office. 

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From: Jim Overstreet <wa5dxp at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 12:59:48 GMT
Subject: Thermostats, Lagering Equipment

My vote for best thermostat for refrigerators and freezers is the 
model 2E740 "Remote Bulb Thermostat" from W.W. Grangers.  I have used 
several of them for years, no problems.  Here are some specs: 
 
Temp Range:    -30=B0 - 90=B0F 
Temp. Diff:    3.5=B0 - 40=B0F 
Contacts:      16 Amps at 120V 
               SPST, Close on temp rise 
Capillary:     8 Ft. long. 
Cost:          about $35.00 
 
On the decision whether to go upright or chest freezer, definitely chest. 
Sam's Wholesale has an Estate brand, 15 ft3, for under $300.  The thermostat 
is very easy to modify as the leads come out of the back up to the top of 
the unit, where the thermostat is located.  This unit holds 7 - 5 gallon 
and 1 or 2 3-gallon kegs.  These units are made in Canada, and appear to 
be sold under different brand names; as one of our club members received one 
for an anniversary gift (what an understanding wife) with the Fridgidare= 
 label 
on it. 
 
Buzzard's Roost Nano-Brewery 
Originators of the exclusive "Plywood Aging Process" 
 
 
 

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