HOMEBREW Digest #2443 Wed 18 June 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
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				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Corn, not in beer, but sort-of related to brewing (Russ Brodeur)
  drilling enamel pots (Dave Whitman)
  Rosemary Pale Ale ("Ted Major")
  RE: Iodophor / Rye beer / shipping beer (George De Piro)
  Corona Mill motorization (Steve Phillips)
  Idophor/Off Taste Thread (DD)
  Whoops ("Graham Wheeler")
  Re: Batch Sparging (Mark Peacock)
  Re: Belgian White questions (Mark Peacock)
  Re: Batch Sparging (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Brew It Yerself Joints/Lacto infestations (Scott Murman)
  RE:  Maize / Batch sparge (George De Piro)
  RE: Batch Sparging (Torque)
  Q's on shipping homebrew (Scott Goeke)
  Misc. Homebrew questions (TheTHP)
  Clumps (Paul Niebergall)
  Re: Belgain White questions (Jeff Renner)
  batch vs. fly sparging (korz)
  Grits (Mark Rancourt)
  Princeton HB (Some Guy)
  Water Chemistry problem (Dave Williams)
  Mill explosion proofing (mike maag)
  Batch Sparging (LINUSNLILA)
  Belgian white (Kit Anderson)
  Scottish Ale Debate Continued (Troy Hojel)
  Re: Coopers Sparkling ale yeast vs Yeastlab Australian ale yeast (JONATHAN BOVARD)
  diastatic extracts /yeast /shipping beer (Heiner Lieth)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 08:32:18 -0400 From: Russ Brodeur <r-brodeur at ds.mc.ti.com> Subject: Re: Corn, not in beer, but sort-of related to brewing In HBD # 2441 I posed the question: > Could the "sweetness" of the cooked corn be enhanced by a > saccharification rest in the 145-50 F range before boiling?? Well, I thought the ears cooked by first resting 30 min at 150 F tasted noticeably sweeter than those brought quickly to boiling. My wife thought so as well. My kids were not convinced, however. So, I guess I'll need to run a few more experiments to prove/disprove my hypothesis. Who knows; once baseball is over, maybe I'll actually have time to brew again! Gotta keep thinking about those mash reactions in the meantime, though. TTFN Russ Brodeur in Franklin, MA mailto:r-brodeur at ds.mc.ti.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 08:36:43 From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> Subject: drilling enamel pots In HBD#2442, Doug Otto asks: >Has anyone tried installing an easy masher in an enamel on steel pot? >If so was chipping the enamel while drilling a problem? I recently >made move from 50/50 grain/extract to full mash and am finding that I >miss not having the spigot on my new brew pot... I've drilled 2 enamel pots to install easy mashers. I did get a little chipping, but it was minor enough that I could cover it with the rubber washer that makes the seal with the pot. I recommend sandwiching the inside and outside of the pot with blocks of wood held together with big clamps, then drill through the wood. A carbide bit will help you get through the glass enamel coating. 1"x1" strips are narrow enough that they fit the curve of the pot fairly well. - --- Dave Whitman "The opinions expressed are those of the author, and not dwhitman at rohmhaas.com Rohm and Haas Co." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 09:12:13 -0400 From: "Ted Major"<tmajor at exrhub.exr.com> Subject: Rosemary Pale Ale I've been thinking of brewing a rosemary pale lately. I'm planning something along the lines of a single infusion mash, OG 1.050-1.060, probably whole Cascade at 60 min and 30 min, with a large dose of fresh rosemary at knockout to replace the aroma hops or possibly dry-herbing with rosemary in the secondary. I'm looking to create an ale along the lines of a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Anchor Liberty Ale with a rosemary rather than a Cascade aroma Has anyone out there in HBD-land ever brewed such a concoction? If so, how much rosemary did you use (and when), and how successful was the result? Thanks, Ted Major Athens, Georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 08:31:32 -0700 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Subject: RE: Iodophor / Rye beer / shipping beer Hi all, Occasionally people write in talking about iodophor flavors in their beer. They always mention that it is billed as a "no rinse" sanitizer. Yes, it is no rinse, but if you read the instructions carefully, it says to allow it to air dry before using the vessel! Your beer may very well taste like iodine if you put it in a container that is wet with iodophor! Either rinse it out or let it dry (which allows the volatile iodine to evaporate). ---------------------------------- Audra asks about rye beer. She mentions that her brewer is an extract brewer, yet gives us an all-grain recipe. The grain bill seems fine, except that I would use more rye (at least 50%). Of more concern is the fact that this might be a first all-grain attempt. I have never been one to discourage mashing, but if you do a rye beer as your first all-grain batch, you may never do another! It is not easy to work with. It will gum up the lauter tun fiercely. If this is your first all-grain beer, you may want to try starting with an all-barley malt recipe, just to work out the kinks in your technique and system before doing a rye beer. Even wheat beers are easier to lauter! ---------------------------------- Dan Ritter writes in about his UPS woes. I had a similar experience yesterday. I went in to UPS and noticed some new signs. One read, "All glass must be inspected." "Hmmm," I thought. "I'd better think fast." The guy looked at the address on the package. It read, "Beer Unlimited." "Is this beer?" he asked. Remembering Dan's post, I replied, "It's root beer in plastic bottles, and I only wrote "fragile" because I'm paranoid." The guy believed my BS, and then went on to tell me that it was illegal to ship beer, and that they also are not allowed to ship pressurized, glass bottles (ie, beer or soda) by air because "it will explode." I wanted to explain to the guy that I doubted they were going to ship my bottles into space, where the pressure difference might cause the caps to blow off, but I decided it was best to just nod and smile. In summary, lie through your teeth to ship beer UPS. Call the AHA and UPS and demand clarification of the law. For the time being, don't organize contests with shipping addresses that say "beer" or "brew" or other obviously alcoholic words! It makes the counter person VERY suspicious! Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 09:28:03 -0500 From: Steve Phillips <swp at datasync.com> Subject: Corona Mill motorization Howdy again... Dan's post about replacing the handle on a Corona mill started old urges boiling up again after I thought that I had put them to bed once and for all, and resigned myself to an afternoon of menial labor with my Corona. I've searched the archives (as best I could with hits limited to ten at a time), and although I'm sure there's something there somewhere, I'm at a loss to find it. And so, I postulate: has anyone motorized their el-cheapo? How did you do it? Motor size? Reduction pulleys? You get the picture. Private replies are o.k. I promise to dance at the next wedding of the donor of the best response. Thanx, Steve Phillips Possum Trot Brewery Long Beach, Mississippi http://www.datasync.com/~swp Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 08:52:41 -0500 From: DD <dunn at tilc.com> Subject: Idophor/Off Taste Thread - --MimeMultipartBoundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have used Idophor with glass, stainless and plastic for several years and never have off flavor in beers...not a chemist but surely blasting the plastic container with 150 degree F got water for a few minutes eliminates any Idophor remaining in the plastic...actually I store the stuff in the plastic for reuse, and yes, it stains, but hot, hot water takes care of the stain and the taste from my experience. I do think switching to bleach from time to time is wise just to keep the critters from becoming resistant, maybe? Any chemist, etc. out there who can respond to Rick's 6-16-97 mail? dd - --MimeMultipartBoundary-- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 16:07:27 +0100 From: "Graham Wheeler" <Graham.Wheeler at btinternet.com> Subject: Whoops I certainly got the hop growing region in NZ wrong (thanks Murray and Bruce). Perhaps I'd better stick to not making wild guesses about things I don't know about. My natural curiosity now wonders why the north of South Island rather than the south; presumably demographics, hospitality of the land etc. At least I now know where the hops are grown in NZ. This Internet lark certainly speeds up the learning process. Graham Wheeler High Wycombe England Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 11:00:26 -0500 From: Mark Peacock <peacock at chicagonet.net> Subject: Re: Batch Sparging > where A is the gallons per pound drained in both the initial and the > batch-sparge runoffs. B is the gallons per pound absorbed by the grain. The > assumption was that one strikes in with (A + B) gallons per pound .... > A can be anything from 0.25 to 0.5, with 0.33 being a common figure (1.33 > qt/lb). My experiments show B to be about 0.13 (0.52 qt/lb) but I've seen > figures as low as 0.08 (0.32 qt/lb). With typical values of A = 0.33 and B = > 0.13, efficiency is a decent 92% of a fully-sparged wort. I've always mashed in at 1.33 qt/lb, which (if I'm reading the formula correctly) would be A + B. A would then be 1.33-B or 0.81 qt/lb. Am I reading this correctly? I usually do a semi-batch sparge -- I don't drain the bed completely, but instead add a quart of 170F sparge water periodically to top-up the liquid level. I've had good efficiencies and bad efficiencies. However, I believe that the most significant variable for me is crush quality. Regards, Mark Peacock Hinsdale, Illinois peacock at chicagonet.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 11:02:39 -0500 From: Mark Peacock <peacock at chicagonet.net> Subject: Re: Belgian White questions The Brewing Techniques web site (as you might expect, http:\\www.brewingtechniques.com ) has a nice section on beer styles. In this section is a very good article on Wit beers by Martin Lodahl in which Martin opines on your two questions: 1) 2-row or 6-row -- Martin suggests 2-row pils malt, Belgian if you can get/afford it. 2) Decoction -- Given the use of unmalted wheat, some sort of temperature program is recommended. Martin implies that a decoction would be nice, but not necessary. I highly recommend the article, as well as the others in the section. Regards, Mark Peacock Hinsdale, Illinois peacock at chicagonet.net Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Jun 1997 09:23:02 -0700 From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at vigra.com> Subject: Re: Batch Sparging I do batch sparging in my RIMS system and get a normal efficiency of about 78% of the theoretical yield of 35 pts. for 2 row. I let the outflow go as fast as a 1/2" valve will let it go out until it goes to a trickle, then pump in another shot of water to cover the grain and do it again. A couple of times I did the trickle-in/trickle-out method and my sparge times went up 3-fold and I got maybe 1/2 to 1 percent better extraction. My time is lots more valuable than the few cents more of grain I have to buy to hit the correct OG, and I don't have any ego problems about having low extraction rates. What counts to me is that I can formualate a recipe I have never made before and hit it within 1-2 pts. OG and that my brew day is as short as possible (and that is already up to 6 hours). dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen at vigra.com http://www.vigra.com/~hollen Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 09:21:35 -0700 From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Brew It Yerself Joints/Lacto infestations > > I don't know if it's common practice, but this place had "mixers" once a > month or so. They had 8 kettles, and I think each batch made about 6 > cases of beer, so they'd have parties of 8 or 16 sign up (sign up with a > friend or meet friends there). They'd make 8 > <bold><italic>different</italic></bold> batches of beer, and everybody > would come back to bottle. At the end, each person would take home a case > or so of each of 8 different kinds of beer. Great way to make friends, > learn about brewing, and hone your tastes on what kind of beer you wanted > to brew. > > Hal Davis Just as a follow-up, my friend is still waiting for his beer and it's now been two months since they brewed the first time. The last time he checked, the operations folks said the beer was still green, which I can understand, but then I'm a brewer. My friend was less than pleased however, perhaps because he sees me sitting on my deck enjoying my brews. Then again, perhaps it's because they're charging US $100 for the privledge of watching someone brew two cases of beer. The place here (South Bay S.F., CA) is part of a chain, and I've seen these folks selling their bottled brews in the local groceries. This makes sense to me; get the people to taste the beers, and if they like them maybe they'll come in and brew some. // George de Piro (brew club honcho extraordinairre) commented on my plans to sour mash becuase I was concerned about removing the lacto critters from my fermentation set-up. I agree that autoclaving should remove any problems from tubes, airlocks, etc., but not everyone has a pressure cooker. I'm going only on second-hand information here but I figured I'd rather play it safe than find out that lacto guys are ruining my pale ales later on. I've been told that iodopher and bleach have *not* completely removed lacto cultures from fermenters, and I think I've even heard that autoclaving has not worked. Again, I don't have first-hand info on this, so if anyone can clear this up, please do. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 13:23:15 -0700 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Subject: RE: Maize / Batch sparge Hi all, Chuck asks about the contribution of flaked maize. I have been thinking about this myself. It adds a definite corn flavor to the beer. It does, however, dilute malt flavor (because it replaces some of the malt). I made a Pre-Pro Pils a while back with estimated IBU's of 30-40 (depending on which formula you use). It tasted MUCH more bitter than that! I have a theory, which is mine, that the perception of bitterness was increased greatly because of the lack of malt to provide balance. Next time I will reduce my hop rates appropriately. This is pure speculation, mind you, but I think there's something to it. A while back I made an Altbier with slightly less hops than the Pre-Pro pils. The bitterness was MUCH lower, however. Could it be because the Alt was 100% malt, and single decocted? The malt flavor balanced the bitterness, thus reducing perception of hops. I don't know, just something to ponder... ---------------------------- Ken talks about batch sparging, and mentions running the grain bed dry between spargings. In my experience, a lot of draff comes out of the lauter tun when you run the bed dry . This would be a bad thing. It may be best to not run the bed dry. Also, what's the problem with adding water to the tun every 10 minutes? I add a few gallons of sparge water, do other things for ~10 minutes, then add another few gallons of water on top of the grain bed before it goes dry. Doesn't seem like too much trouble. There is no need to "match" in flow with out flow. Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 13:24:38 -0700 From: Torque <wieleba at pce.net> Subject: RE: Batch Sparging I have been batch sparging for about 6 months, but my method is a little different than what you described. I recirculate the first running and than slowly drain off into the boiler, i than add half my sparge water and stir the mash for a about 30 seconds, let it sit for 15 minutes, and drain off for 15 minutes. I then add the remaining water and let it sit unstirred for 15 minutes and drain off slowly. My extract efficiency went from 50% with a traditional type sparge to 65% with the batch sparge, i blame the poor efficiency on my mash tun design, a rectangular picnic cooler with a poorly made false bottem, which i plan on chaning in the near future. Dan - -- http://www.pce.net/wieleba/beerlink.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 10:39:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Goeke <sgoeke at fhcrc.org> Subject: Q's on shipping homebrew Howdy! I have a brewing friend who just moved to a distant location and we would like to continue to exchange a few bottles from each of our batches for comparison and bragging purposes. Does anybody know about the legality and/or proper procedures for shipping homebrew? Does it tend to ship well, or are there unfortunate complications? Any knowledge that might be out there would be appreciated. Thanks, Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 14:01:05 -0400 (EDT) From: TheTHP at aol.com Subject: Misc. Homebrew questions Dear HBD, Since things are a little slow I thought I'd submit a few accumulated questions... Q1:At what PSI do you begin to risk Bottle bombs. Specifically for 20oz Bass and Red Hook Starbucks coffee stout bottles? I just bottled some raspberry Cider, and I had it cranked up to 20psi for a sparkling effect. In order to bottle it I released all the head pressure and bottled at 8psi as per usual. But there was alot of foaming around. I packed them in a box and bagged the box and put it in my beer closet in the basement. What do you think, did I make a mess? Q2: I just keged my Summer Weizen, How many ATM's should a proper German Wheat be carbonated at? 2.7-3?? Q3: I found a bottle of LLBean Raspberry Syrup in my pantry. Im considering drawing off a 2 liter of wheat and making some Raspberry Wheat. How do I best accomplish this? Should I use it for Priming? If so how points would I need to properly prime 2 Liters? How do I figure out how to transfer SG. of the syrup to an amount of priming sugar? Q4: With Meads: I started a blueberry melomel with 5lbs of berries (Steeped) and 10lbs of honey (OG1.083). I let that ferment for 2 months. Without racking I later decided to step it up with 5 more lbs of both honey and berries. I have a wide mouthed carboy so I just dumped the honey in and stirred, likewise with the berries. How long should I let the mead sit on the berries? Q5: With fathers day just behind us, should we be expecting lots of questions on how to use new toys??? Phil. Poison Frog Home Brewery Pfeilgiftfrosche Weizen and Poison Frog pale Ale now on Tap!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 13:37:12 -0500 From: Paul Niebergall <pnieb at burnsmcd.com> Subject: Clumps Home Brew Ingesters: Dave writes: >>Ever see the big clumps of yeast that rise and fall during active >>fermentation? AlK writes: >>........they are break and not yeast. O.K. so what are the big clumps? Every once in a while I have a fermentation that is so active, that I have considered trying to harness the power to heat my house in the winter. Anyway, when I am blessed with one of these really big ferments, I have observed the mystery clumps floating about. I have seen clumps as big as 3/8 of an inch or so and sometimes is looks like a tornado in my carboy. The appearance of the clumps are definitely a function of the activity of the ferment (at least in my home brewery). Therefore I don?t think it is too much of a stretch to say they are yeast related. I have observed cold break coagulating in the carboy after a really good counterflow chill session (hot break left in kettle). But the cold break falls apart with the lightest disturbance. If the clumps are cold break, how does it stay together in the vigors of a tornadic fermentation? I tend to go with Dave on this one. The yeast floc together to form huge colonies when you have a super ferment going on. Nazdrowie, Paul Niebergall Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 13:50:05 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Belgain White questions sy73308 at vantage.fmr.com (Steven Biggins) asked about wits: > 1) Which is better to use 2-Row or 6-Row, and why? 6-row has more enzymes, and since you'll presumably be using 50% unmalted wheat (maybe with some oats), it can't hurt to have all you can get. It has slightly lower yield and slightly higher tannins and polyphenols than 2-row, but with low-tannin wheat (because it's huskless), there should be no problem. I've found that since it is slightly less plump than 2-row, double or even triple passes through a Malt Mill results in really top quality crush. 2-row would be nearly as good, but be sure not to get Briess's new *pale ale* 2-row (Harrington), which is malted and kilned in the British tradition and is higher in color (3.5) and lower in enzymes than their regular 2-row. Some distributors may have changed without telling everybody because it seems that's what everyone prefers for ales. It would be a poor choice for a wit. > 2) Is it better to do a decoction mash ? I wouldn't bother. I've just mashed in at 140 for 30 minutes, then boosted with heat to 158F. You could just mash in at 153 as well. I've done a step mash with a 30 minute protein rest at 122F and got disappointing head retention. Musta chewed up the proteins too much. > Any, other tips or info. would be great. If you can get raw, soft white winter wheat, that's the best and what they use in Belgium. Soft wheat is typically lower in protein than hard, and is easier to mill as well. White wheat is lower in tannins and phenols than red. It lends a nice softness to the beer than you can detect as early as the mash. For something a bit out of the ordinary, check out my ginger wit recipe on Cat's Meow III at http://alpha.rollanet.org/cm3/recs/09_85.html. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 14:42:30 -0500 (CDT) From: korz at xnet.com Subject: batch vs. fly sparging Ken writes: >into account during recipe formulation. Since there *is* sort of a rinse >process involved in batch-sparging, we would expect the "efficiency" to be >higher. According to my back-of-the-envelope doodlings, I figure a good >batch-sparge can be almost as efficient as a full-sparge. If you mash >relatively thin and allow enough time for full drainage, you could be as good >as 95% as efficient as full-sparging. The process of adding sparge water continuously while draining the laeuter tun is called "fly sparging." I just wanted to throw a small spanner (wrench) into the works... Saying that batch sparging "can be almost as efficient" as fly sparging, assumes that the fly sparging is 100% efficient. In most cases, it is not. The factor you have forgotten Ken, is *channeling*. Channels are like little 3-D rivers running through the grain bed. Depending on your crush, runoff rate, laeuter tun design, and probably whether your are more than 50 degrees from the equator, you will have either more or less channeling. If you have more channeling than most, there's a good chance that batch sparging may be more efficient than fly sparging. As for whether batch sparging may be an option for no-sparge brewers, I think it depends on what the reasons are for the brewer not sparging. If it's because of kettle size limitations, time constraints, or some (as yet unproven) additional malt character, then I don't think that batch sparging would be that attractive. Personally, now that I've built this 15-gallon system, I usually do parti-gyle brewing (one strong, one medium, one weak beer, or some combination of three worts) so batch sparging lends itself very easily to this. Although, of the 20-odd batches I've brewed, all but two or three of them were fly sparged (even the parti-gyle-like batches). Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 13:04:08 -0700 From: Mark Rancourt <rancourt at nelson.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Grits I was wondering if anybody has tried using Grits as an adjunct. If so, what were the results? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 17:14:25 -0400 (EDT) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Princeton HB Greetings, Beerlings! Feed me some humble pie... Ya know, as I bottled a batch of beer produced by the Brew Crew last night (damned thing insisted on continuing its ferment well past my expectations...), my mind kept going back to the recent exchange here regarding Princeton Homebrew. A little bit of soul-searching later, and... Joe, My sincere and heartfelt apologies. It is truly unfortunate that I happened upon your shop on those occassions, but even more unfortunate that I brought it to public attention in the manner that I did. (So I lied! But this needed to be said.) See ya! Pat Babcock | "Beer is my obsession, and I'm late for pbabcock at oeonline.com | therapy..." -PGB brewbeerd at aol.com | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point janitor@ brew.oeonline.com | at the end of your day as every sentence Home Brew Digest Janitor | requires proper punctuation." -PGB Webmaster of the Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html Home of the Home Brew Flea Market Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 18:07:30 -0400 From: rdavis at gator.net (Dave Williams) Subject: Water Chemistry problem I've got some questions for any water chemists out there in the collective I got a water analysis from my local municipality (Newberry, Florida) taken at the well head. My well is located about 1 mile from the municipal well field and is within 50' of the same depth. we are both drawing from the upper Floridan aquifer which flows through a limestone bedrock system. water quality is consistent throughout this area, so I am confident that their analysis will closely reflect the ion content of my water. The ion concentrations for the major ions are as follows: Calcium, dissolved 52 mg/L Sulfate, dissolved 4.9 mg/L Magnesium, dissolved 3.5 mg/L Sodium, dissolved 2.4 mg/L Chloride, dissolved 5.1 mg/L Carbonate, dissolved ??? the report doesn't say Hardness 171 mg/L Alkalinity (dissolved as CaCo3) 130 mg/L Here are my questions: 1) Can the concentration of carbonate be determined from the above data since it was not given in the report? 2) How much will boiling the water reduce the ionic concentrations of Calcium and Carbonate? When I boil 15 gallons of brewing water for 10 minutes to reduce alkalinity I get about 3/4 teaspoon of precipitate, presumably Calcium carbonate. 3) Does boiling reduce the Calcium enough that I need to add some back? My pale / pilsner mash pH has been in the 5.0 to 5.5 range after boiling the water but without adding gypsym. Have I just answered my own question? 4) If I add gypsum will it make the mash *too* acid? It looks to me like this water is pretty easy to adjust for almost any style of beer. If I can get the answers to the above questions, I think that I can figure the rest out with the Brew Water calculator. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Private E-mail ok. TIA Dave W. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 16:22:22 -0600 From: mike maag <maagm at rica.net> Subject: Mill explosion proofing On Fri, 13 Jun 1997 13:30:19 -0400 (EDT) Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net> wrote Re: MILL ANTI-EXPLOSION PROOFING: I know of other brewers that had similar "hacked together" mill equipment that are far bigger and they never have had a "close one". a/b, miller and coors amoungst a few other large producers would need it just to pass OSHA or local ordinance....so jethro you could probably get away with out it. joe It is a misconception that small employers are exempt from OSHA regs. All establishments in high hazard SIC codes (including microbreweries) which employ even one person are covered. If you are incorporated, and have no employees, YOU are an employee. Granted, an establishment employing 10 or fewer persons is highly unlikely to get inspected by OSHA, unless an employee makes a complaint or there is a serious accident or fatality. Grinding mills are Class II Division 2 locations, requiring electrical equipment listed for this type hazardous location. Just passing along this info FYI, Mike Maag <maagm at rica.net> Va. OSHA, Safety & Health Senior Compliance Officer (e-mail any questions) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 18:46:38 -0400 (EDT) From: LINUSNLILA at aol.com Subject: Batch Sparging A few other points to consider with batch sparging versus conventional sparging: 1. In conventional sparging, the top grain layer gets increasingly more rinsed the higher you get from the false bottom. That is, the sugar concentration is a function of the distance from the screen. It seems to me that there is a much higher risk of leaching out tannins and other undesirable flavors this way. In batch sparging, I would think that the sugar concentration would be more homogenous, and would not change when you drain the wort out. The drawback is the filtering of sugars by the grain as the wort is drained out 2. I noticed much less channeling of the flow through the grain bed when I switched from conventional to batch sparging. Try as I might, it did not seem that I could sprinkle the water gently enough to avoid stirring up the grain bed, and getting the flow right was impossible with all of the steam and all. And when the sparge was done, I could see channels in the grain. So know I just drain as much as I can at first, pour in my sparge water, stir well, and recirculate for 20 minutes. 3. It's so easy! No more bending over steam to see where the level is. No more trying to keep the sparge water at the right temperature for 45 minutes. No more wondering what the actual temp of the water was when it hit the grain bed, after losing all that heat to steam. Now I can start boiling my first runnings while the sparge is going, and save another 20 minutes there too. I estimate that I have cut my brew time by an hour, and if that's not a definition of efficiency I don't know what is. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 19:14:40 -0400 From: Kit Anderson <kitridge at bigfoot.com> Subject: Belgian white Steve Biggins asked; >I'm planning on making a Belgain white this weekend and I have >a few questions: > > 1) Which is better to use 2-Row or 6-Row, and why? 2 row Belgian. Too many enzymes in the 6 row. > 2) Is it better to do a decoction mash ? You don't want the flavor of decoction in a wit. Step mash 125-132-141-156-168. Use flaked wheat not wheat malt. You can buy it in health food stores. Use the right yeast. BrewTek and Yeast Culture Kit Co have the best wit yeasts. Add the orange peel and coriander to secondary so the aromatics don't get scrubbed. Adjust the final lactic acid to taste, not a pH meter or paper. - --- Kit Anderson *****NEW EMAIL ADDRESS***** Bath, Maine kitridge at bigfoot.com I suppose that it's theoretically possible for a Yankee to make decent barbecue. But it sure ain't a pretty thought! -Smokey Pitts Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 18:15:01 -0700 From: Troy Hojel <hojel at flash.net> Subject: Scottish Ale Debate Continued Al writes: > Either there is a vast difference between Scottish Ales from northern > and southern Scotland or you have been away from home far too long. > > I tasted perhaps two dozen ales brewed in Scotland (primarily in the > southern half) when I visited there in the summer of 1995, and I really > didn't notice them to be that different from English Bitters. According > to the AHA guidelines they aren't supposed to have hop aromas, but *most* > did... they aren't supposed to be as bitter as English Bitters, but > *most* were... they aren't supposed to be balanced more towards bitterness > rather than maltiness, but *most* were... and the hops used were all > English varieties, not Continental ones. Overall, there really wasn't > that much difference between them and English Bitters. In fact, one > or two beers brewed by McEwan's and sold in Scotland with shilling > designations (i.e. 60/-, 70/-, etc.) are also sold in northern England > simply relabeled "Younger's" beers with English beer names (IPA, Bitter, > etc.). <snip> Not to drag this debate on for too long, but I just returned from a trip to the UK, and beg to differ. Obviously, we might not have tasted the same beers and our taste in beer may differ (perceptions etc). But my conclusion, the Scottish ales (80/~ etc) did taste *different* than many of the English ales (Bitters etc). I did taste some weak Scottish ales that tasted like weak English ales. I don't think this can be attributed to a blending of styles. Rather, to inferior products (on both sides). Most importantly, the yeast(s) used contribute a completely different taste profile. Many of the ales in Scotland did retain more "malty" characteristics. In addition to the multiple layers of residual malt, many of the Scottish ales had slight hints of wine or a vinous taste. Again, most likely a direct result of the yeast strains used (or bacteria?). These strains also left a very distinct aroma. It is difficult for me to fully describe this aroma (I'm not as poetic as MJ), but I would say that the predominate profile was one of complex toasted/roasted caramel. Slight citrus hops on the nose; but they played a back-row seat to the malt. This aroma was NOT out of style. I found these ales to have *balancing* bitterness, and at times, slightly assertive bitterness. BUT, the perceived bitterness was completely different from those of the English beers. Maybe softer and less prickly. I don't know, but I assume that the actual hops used differ (not to mention the hop schedule and longer boiling times), but they were definitely not the same. The Scottish ales did not have the classic English characteristics (Fuggle, Golding, etc). Two beers may have the same IBU's but the attenuation of the yeast, and the taste compounds, completely alter the perception of the bitterness; not to mention the difference in hop varieties and grain bill. Bottom line, these ales were in no way alike. To say that the Scottish ales have possibly been "Anglified" is, in my opinion, dead wrong. I found both styles of beer to be equally enjoyable and equally different. Troy Again, I'm not an expert (no one is), but I do know my craft well enough to say that these beers differed in many ways. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 12:23:07 +1000 (EST) From: JONATHAN BOVARD <j.bovard at student.qut.edu.au> Subject: Re: Coopers Sparkling ale yeast vs Yeastlab Australian ale yeast Sorry but the two are different yeast. How am Qualified to say this? 1. I live in australia and have used both 2.Ive got a friend whos a Microbiologist, homebrewer and professional brewer and he says they arent the same. They are similar though! Cheers JB Brisbane, Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 20:46:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Heiner Lieth <lieth at telis.org> Subject: diastatic extracts /yeast /shipping beer Dave Burley wrote: >diastatic malt extracts form a good base for >your brews. This means they can reduce some *gelatinized* starch to >maltose. If the extract container doesn't say diastatic it isn't and can't >reduce starch. Use of things like flaked barley, cooked adjuncts, etc. = >will only produce a starchy, cloudy beer at best ( perhaps hidden by the >stout's color) if you use non-diastatic malt extracts. As I understand it (and practice it), extract is generally added as the wort comes to a boil. Wouldn't the very hot temperatures denature the enzymes immediately and prevent any conversion of starches to sugars. Would such extracts have to be added while the temperatures are below 160F and rested there (if so, how long)? - -------- Dana Brigham asks: >how long does the small amount of yeast at the bottom of >a bottle conditioned beer last? I asked this some months back and the concensus was that the yeast at the bottom of the bottle is merely dormant and stays that way for a long time (many monhts). It can be restarted even a year after bottling. - -------- Wes writes: > The local UPS service (Angleton Texas) now opens and inspects > all packages regardless of what is written on the outside (FOOD or > YEAST SAMPLES). They would not ship anything in glass and especially > if it is alcoholic in nature. The same goes with the US postal > service. Its getting to where you can't enter any home brew > competitions unless you drive it there yourself. This there any way > around this. I suggest the following (for small number of bottles) based on personal experience: pack the bottles in a small cardboard box tightly with styrofoam and bubble wrap. Tape this box shut and seal it into a large plastic bag (in case of rupture). Shake the box; if you hear glass clinking then repack it. Pack this small box in a much larger box with lots of styrofoam pellets all around each side of the smaller box. The bigger box and styrofoam doesn't add that much to the cost as long as you stay within the limits set by shipper. If you do it right, then you should hear no glass clinking or fluid sloshing. Don't write anything on the outside that is not obviously required to get the package to it's destination. - ----------- There have been several posts on hops and photoperiodism. I work in ornamental horticulture and manipulation of photoperiodism is a tool that we use extensively. I'm not familiar with photoperiodism in hops. With the plants that I deal with, you can manipulate the photoperiod with incandescent lamps (60W light bulbs) turned on for some time (4 hours?) during the middle of the night. This tricks the plants into getting the needed stimulus. Perhaps the same can work with hops; but how many lights, how far from the plant, how much of the night? - I don't know. Heiner Lieth Return to table of contents
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