HOMEBREW Digest #2847 Mon 12 October 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re:  Drilled Stoppers (bob_poirier)
  Re:  Solder & Wort (bob_poirier)
  Re: Poldar Thermoprobes/Timers (Jeff Renner)
  Rauch and Rubber (Dan Listermann)
  Acidifying Iodophor, for poor folks ("Marc Fries")
  sour mash conversion ("silent bob")
  3 tier brew tree (Jim Hunter)
  "Diluted mash" question (Doug Moyer)
  reply to: Drilling a rubber stopper, HBD#2845 (Herbert Bresler)
  Some Data (Jim Liddil)
  pH (Danny Breidenbach)
  source for CO2 cylinders (Scott Murman)
  Re: Protein rest two-cents ("Steve Alexander")
  RE: New-brewer questions (Matt Comstock)
  Re: Clinitest Brew Ha Ha ("John A. MacLaughlin")
  sour mash-boont amber (tonja and kevin eichelberger)
  Polder thermometer fix. (Ian Smith)
  RIMS turbulence & trapped air (AKGOURMET)
  Gluten Free "Beer" ("Grant W. Knechtel")
  BIG glass "carboys" (Biggiebigg)
  KROC World Brewers Forum (BrewsTraveler)
  GABF: Trip Report (BrewsTraveler)
  Brewers Olympics (BrewsTraveler)
  valve stems (John_E_Schnupp)
  Pewter... ("Pat Babcock")
  Pewter, ("David R. Burley")
  Changes in AHA Board of Advisors (David Houseman)
  Bottle Fermentation (Keith Busby)
  240V GFI ("Doug Otto")
  Re: Polder Thermoprobes/Timers (Duff Hickman)
  home made carbonators ("Tom & Dee McConnell")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:25:03 -0500 From: bob_poirier at adc.com Subject: Re: Drilled Stoppers Greetings!! Mark Bayer asks about drilling rubber stoppers, and John Schnupp responds that using a piece of tubing with a sharp end will do the trick, and he is correct! I got the idea from the book "Brew Ware" (sorry, I don't have it in front of me, and I can't remember who wrote it, or who published it). I took a piece of 3/8" OD copper pipe and cut one end at an angle of about 45 degrees. Then I used a grinding wheel (or a metal file would work too, I guess) and ground the cut end of the pipe so that there was a sharp , tapered edge running around the inside diameter of the pipe (does that make sense??). The I drilled a 3/8" hole, about 2" deep, in a piece of hard wood (oak, if I remember correctly) - I pushed the pipe into the block of oak to use as a handle. It works pretty well!! I've only used it to bore holes in #9 stoppers (for use with an Erlenmeyer flask for making starters), but I guess you could use it on just about any size stopper (within reason). The only problem I had was when I wasn't paying attention and bored a crooked hole that came out on the side of the stopper, near the bottom - you've got to keep in mind that the stopper is going to get deformed (squished) while you're boring through it! Actually, Pete Calinski makes a good point about possibly "freezing" the stopper before you try to drill/bore through it. Hope this helps... Brew On & Prosit!! Bob P. East Haven, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:24:54 -0500 From: bob_poirier at adc.com Subject: Re: Solder & Wort Greetings!! I wanted to thank all those who responded privately to my question about the possible harmful consequences of soldering mash & boil manifolds with lead free solder. I won't die if I solder the manifolds together, but as was suggested by more than one person, the things would be a bear to keep clean!! So, I'm planning on just "friction-fitting" them together. I'd also like to take this opportunity to thank the HBD Janitors, Pat Babcock & Karl Lutzen. They both responded almost IMMEDIATELY to my original post with useful and insightful information. And, they continued to respond promptly as I kept on pestering them over the course of the next few days!!! Thanks guys, and PLEASE, keep up the good work!!! Brew On & Prosit!! Bob P. East Haven, CT PS - Regarding the concerns about censorship of the HBD, after reading all the posts to date on this issue, though I understand where Steve Jackson is coming from, I personally don't believe that the HBD is going to become a Nazi/communistic-like entity - Pat says he WON'T let this happen, and I for one believe and trust him. Just my $0.02. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 10:46:24 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Poldar Thermoprobes/Timers Christophe Frey <cfrey at ford.com> >Is >there a solid digital probe that anyone out there would recommend? I find the >little dial-type thermometers to be too inaccurate. I do like the pen-type of >probes (available at Sears Hardware stores for arounf $11-$12), but their >probe is only 3"-4", so it really can't tell me much more than the surface >temp or temp's at the probe inlets. I know that digital is neat, and I have a nice one from Control Co. that has temperature alarms, nice for letting me know when my mash water is hot enough, etc. But the thermometer I use most is a long stem, large dial analog one from Williams Brewing. The digital ones display a change only every few seconds, whereas the dial one responds continually, albeit with a lag. This lag is actually good - as I "stir the mash" with it (no stirring occurs, of course, with a skinny probe), I get kind of an integral of the varying temperatures across the different parts of the mash. And boy can they vary, no matter how much I stir with a paddle, it seems. The other thing is that I find analog displays more useful (I hate digital clocks and speedometers for the same reason). I really don't need to know if this particular portion of the mash is 154.3F, as a matter of fact, it probably isn't, at least not to that degree of significance. I just need to know if the mash as a whole is about right. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 11:12:53 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Rauch and Rubber I have to confess that I am a smoke fanatic. I have been using Graham Wheeler's recipe for Schlenkerla for years now. It is 98% rauchmalz ( I use Weyermann's) and 2% chocolate malt. It is great! I tend to look at some other so-called rauchbiers as a bit limp wristed, but that my taste. To do a sane job of boring rubber stoppers you need a core drill - something that does not try to chew up the center of the hole. These are easy to make. All you need to do is sharpen the outside end of a tube and, with a little liquid hand soap, it goes right in and it makes a cute little slug that you can play with in your spare time. Think of making a rotary knife. The tubing can be found at any hobby shop in 1/32" graduated sizes under the K&S Engineering brand name. Cut off about 3" and chuck it into your electric drill. Take a file and stroke the tube while it turns in the drill until a sharp edge is formed on the outside of the tube. Now to bore a hole, you just dab a bit of liquid soap on the spot that you want a hole and apply your homemade core drill. You may find that only going in half way and retracting to relubricate makes the job go easier. I use a drill press which my life would be hell without. Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 09:47:38 PDT From: "Marc Fries" <q_mech at hotmail.com> Subject: Acidifying Iodophor, for poor folks I bought some vinegar (a.k.a. dilute acetic acid; $0.99 for a litre), and added about a third to the seven gallons of water required to fill my fermenter-carboy. I added the required dosage of Iodophor to this to sanitize, and I'd like to report that it works just fine. When I went to sanitize my 5 gallon carboy for the same batch, I realized that I had run out of vinegar. I cut up one and a half limes (containing ascorbic and citric acids) and sqeezed those into the carboy with the Iodophor. Unfortunately, my financially-challenged self lacks the equipment to put any sort of serious measurements to all this, but my batch of brown ale is healthy and clear just prior to bottling. I'd have to say that this works! Now I'll score some pH test strips and do it right next time...! Marc D. Fries ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:07:18 PDT From: "silent bob" <holdenmcneil at hotmail.com> Subject: sour mash conversion Hello all! George De Piro wrote about his experience with a sour mash. He said that after an overnight sourmash, he attempted to raise the temp into alpha amalase range, and that the remaining starch did not convert. George suspected that this was due to the pH becoming to low in the course of the mash. While I agree that a low pH will inhibit and mabey even denature alpha amylase, I think that heat and time are the more likely culprits in destroying the enzymes. Alpha amalase is only good for a couple of hours tops above about 148 degrees. This combined with being at the sour mash temp overnight probably destroyed all of the enzyme. This is just my guess on what was going on, and the main point, which is not to count on good conversion after an overnight sour mash is well taken. Also, as anyone who has smelled day old spent grain knows, lactobacillus will survive alpha amylase rest temps, and so holding out a portion of unconverted mash is unnecessary. Just some thoughts, Happy brewing Adam ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 10:06:06 -0700 From: Jim Hunter <hunter3 at llnl.gov> Subject: 3 tier brew tree In HBD 2842, Tom and Dee wrote: > I am trying to find something on the Web that I once found, did not > bookmark, and now need to find again. It was a 3 teir brew tree with > (at least one of) the arms that could be raised up and down. Seems that > the one I saw used a come-a-long to move the keg/burner up and down. If > I can find that then I could boil at (almost) ground level and then > raise the keg up to empty into fermenter. Figure that will clip off > about 30" of height requirement. > > Anybody know what the URL is for this? You might be referring to what's called the Brew Tree. It is a dual column frame that has a winch on the mash tun side for loading and unloading. Its designed to hold 1/2 bbl converted kegs or accommodate a unique kettle shape. You can get it with kegs also. I have owned one for several years now and find it very effective. Jim Hunter Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 13:39:43 -0500 From: Doug Moyer <shyzaboy at geocities.com> Subject: "Diluted mash" question All mighty collective, On this fine Friday afternoon, I am in the process of brewing a nice, big stout, using a technique and recipe that I used a couple of months ago. (The results were terrific!) I am using the "diluted mash" variant of the no-sparge mash, taken from a BT article by the (recently maligned) Louis Bonham. Here is the question. In a normal fly-sparge, many have recommended that the sparge last about 45 - 60 minutes. Accordingly, I am used to reducing the flow from the mash tun to a bare trickle. Is this necessary with the no-sparge technique? As long as the filter bed is set, can you increase the flow? Everything that is coming out is already in the liquor, and you are leaving the rest in the grain. Obviously, the answer (if I get one) won't impact today's brewing session, but I may just do it again. What say you? - -- Brew on, Doug Moyer Star City Brewers Guild: web: http://hbd.org/starcity list: mailto:starcity-list at hbd.org Pix of baby Keira Moyer (and my brewing setup): web: http://www.rev.net/~kmoyer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 13:48:01 -0400 From: Herbert Bresler <bresler.7 at osu.edu> Subject: reply to: Drilling a rubber stopper, HBD#2845 Peter J. Calinski commented on Drilling a rubber stopper, a question originally posted by, Mark A Bayer (Boeing). >what's the approved method for drilling a rubber stopper? >do i use a drill bit The proper way to get a clean hole in a rubber stopper is with a cork borer. This is essentially a hollow tube of the desired size that is sharp at one end. The blunt end either has a TEE that is gripped in your hand or a fitting that goes in your drill. Steady drilling and pressure is applied to get the hole cut through the stopper. You get a nice clean hole (and a little cylinder of rubber left inside the borer). The important point is that the cutting edge should be smooth like a carving knife, not jagged like a drill bit or a bread knife. Drill bits shred rubber stoppers because they are meant for wood or metal. They are designed to chip away material, not cut it cleanly. You will never achieve a clean hole in a rubber stopper with a dril bit. A small hole saw perhaps will work, but it is still less than ideal because of the jagged serrated cutting edge. You can make a cutter yourself by sharpening the end of a piece of pipe of the diameter that you want your hole to be. You can also buy hole cutters made specifically for stoppers from scientific supply houses, but they are expensive. A set of 9 manual cutters costs about $100; a set of 8 borers for a drill costs about $135. A less expensive and less time-consuming alternative is to buy pre-bored stoppers. Thay are available at many home brew shops, via mail order, or through scientific supply houses. You should expect to pay about $1 each, give or take a few cents. Good luck and good brewing, Herb [reference: Fisher Scientific supply catalog 1998/99] .....no affiliation, yadda.... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:59:30 -0700 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu> Subject: Some Data I tested a bottle of 1998 SN Bigfoot the other night and let my wife do the determination. It came out at 1%. I also test an imperial stout and it was at <1/2 >1/4% after 3 weeks in the fermenter. Oh I did this using the Clinitest. FWIW Bigfoot is bottle conditioned and I was able to get viable yeast from the bottle. So if there was anything fermetnable by the strain SN uses the bottles would likely be overcarbonated somewhat. Now let's all have a rampant discussion about clinitest and see if Al and Dave can really restrain themselves. Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 14:26:06 -0400 From: Danny Breidenbach <DBreidenbach at nctm.org> Subject: pH Looking for recommendations: What sort of pH papers are good for use in brewing? Source to buy them? How does one read a pH paper after it's immersed in dark, sticky mash liquor? Does pH vary through the depth of the grain bed? Stir well and take a sample from the top? Anyone have any experience with the Texas Instruments Calculator-Based Laboratory? Would the Vernier pH probe work to check the pH of the mash? I'm thinking about finally paying attention to water chemistry a little bit, so what sort of tools do I need? Thanks, - --Danny brewing away in Ashburn, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 12:22:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: source for CO2 cylinders I'm probably going to buy myself a keg setup for X-mas, and I was wondering if there was a good source for CO2 cylinders and gauges. I'm wondering about both $$ and safety issues (certification, etc.). I can't imagine that there isn't a commercial outfit that specializes in gas that could provide a new setup with all the safety checks for a reasonable price. Anyone been down this road? -SM- P.S. I have a list of topics and posters that I feel are a not sufficiently contributing to the S/N ratio. Who do I send it to for consideration? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:52:04 -0400 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Protein rest two-cents Charles Rich writes ... >After 80 minutes at 138F the resulting wort lacked coaguable protein, not >even much foam during the boil and no cold break just solid cloudiness, >even after ferment. After four weeks of cold conditioning I tried clearing >a sample with gelatin and another with Polyclar. Both helped, but the >Polyclar more and it noticeably reduced the objectionable flavor. Just to reiterate the point, gelatin and polyclar, natural protein and unnatual protein analog, can't help very much in reducing uncoagulable protein. One of the odder haze treatments, adding phenolics, *might* help, but then again you said this beer was already too tannic and the method difficult. Adding papain or other proteolytic enzymes to the beer could have helped too. Tho' I usually don't think it's useful, Irish moss in the boiler might have been beneficial. >Normally I'm with Kunze, but 45C-50C sounds whacked for optimal >*proteolytic* conversion, are you sure he doesn't mean peptiditic >degradation? No. Kunze doesn't speak to this (as far as I've read), but M&BS cites the lower temp range (50-55C) as giving the highest levels of permanently soluable nitrogen (non-coagualable amino & polymers, and the higher range (55C-60C) as giving higher levels on non-formol(non-amino or polymer) permanent nitrogen, probably nucleaic acid nitrogen. It's generally held that the lower range works best for peptidases and the upper for proteases, but it's a very mixed picture. I think Fix PoBS used 45-50C and 40C-60C for the two. Throw the 'off pH' into the picture and I'd hesitate to even guess what acts at 58.8C. >I don't know Steve it kinda walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck... If it was a duck (polypeptides) then why was the beer so tannic ? The phenol-polypeptide complexes a re a *LOT* less flavorful than tannins. So I feel that it looks like a duck(haze), but tastes like a yuck(tannin) and the explanation it far from obvious. I'm with Fats Waller on this one - "One never know - do one ?". Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 16:15:26 -0400 From: Matt Comstock <MComstock at shepherdcolor.com> Subject: RE: New-brewer questions Thanks a lot for all the responses to my new-brewer post. I am impressed by the number of people that helped me with my questions. The only way I could probably receive this much help with these type of questions is if I was part of a brew-club. Speaking of which, does anyone know of an active group in the venerable brewing city of Cincinnati? Thanks again, all. Matt Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 15:56:56 -0400 From: "John A. MacLaughlin" <jam at clark.net> Subject: Re: Clinitest Brew Ha Ha In HBD #2845 Ronald La Borde <rlabor at lsumc.edu> wrote in part: > What if someone gets tired about hearing about our beloved RIMS? Well, I wouldn't have volunteered this if he hadn't asked, but I AM tired of hearing about his beloved RIMS. The main reason I don't complain about those posts is that they remain reasonably courteously worded. I figure that as long as the RIMS fans treat each other well there's a good chance they'll treat the rest of us well also. And I find significant consolation in the knowledge that I can skip what I prefer to skip. If posts are to be limited to what interests everyone there will soon be none that interest anyone. What concerns me about the Clinitest thread is not that it became sterile and repetitious but that it became abusive. Verbal abuse is often a precursor of a closed fist, and regardless of what else it may do (pound a table, punch a nose, etc.) a closed fist is always evidence of a closed mind. I am no fan of censorship either, but I have observed that the fruits of freedom are sweet only when freedom is combined with discipline; freedom without discipline is license. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 17:36:01 -0500 From: tonja and kevin eichelberger <tkeich at falcon.cc.ukans.edu> Subject: sour mash-boont amber I've heard that the folks down at Anderson Valley Brewing in Boonville use a sour mash in producing their Boont Amber, and was wondering if anyone out there had any experience with sour mashing an amber ale? I would like to try this style of beer, and not having tried the beer itself or the process, would appreciate any input. Has anyone tasted boont, what were your flavor impressions? Respectfully, Kevin Eichelberger Lawrence, KS Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 17:04:36 -0600 From: Ian Smith <isrs at cmed.com> Subject: Polder thermometer fix. Steve recently had problems with a Polder. I did too but I now have 3 that all work perfectly. Here is the problem for anyone that is interested. Water gets into the joint where the wire joins the >probe. Next time it happens put the probe in the oven at 300 F for 30 >minutes (not the connector though - leave it outside the door seal). > >To solve the problem - buy 18" of teflon heat shrink just larger internal >diameter than the outer diameter of the probe. Slide it over the probe and >also over the wire. Use a heat gun and shrink it. It should make an excellent >water seal. I also used a bit of silicone calking to make sure as well. Ian Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 21:50:37 EDT From: AKGOURMET at aol.com Subject: RIMS turbulence & trapped air I'm gradually piecing together a RIMS setup and I've come up with some questions about valves and tubing. My system will consist of a picnic cooler mash tun, a magnetic drive pump, 1/2" copper pipe and flexible tubing, and a HERMS-type coil in the sparge tank. To monitor the temperature, I was thinking about sticking the stem of a dial thermometer through a rubber stopper and then sticking the stopper in a copper T-fitting inline. One thermometer would be at the mash tun outlet and another would be inline near the return manifold. There would also be 1 or 2 ball valves inline. My questions have to do with trapped air and turbulence around these fittings and other areas in the loop, such as the ball valves and if I decide to use 3/8" tubing for the heating coil when the rest of the tubing is 1/2". Does the entire loop need to be completely purged of air? Will it purge by itself? If there is a small amount of air and turbulence around the T-fittings or the ball valves, what effect will that have on the wort? Seems like necking down would be ok, but what about going from 3/8" into 1/2" pipe? I guess it would depend on flow rate and the amount of backpressure. What has been the experience of other RIMS users? And finally, are full-port valves worth the money? What if I use 3/4" valves with 1/2"-3/4" fittings on either side? That should provide the same flow rate and would be less than half the cost of full-port. Thanks. Bill Wright Juneau, Alaska akgourmet at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 23:05:32 -0700 From: "Grant W. Knechtel" <GWK at hartcrowser.com> Subject: Gluten Free "Beer" Brad asks about gluten-free beer in HBD 2846. -snip- ...she is almost totally gluten intolerant, and cannot have any beer, even though she likes it. They asked whether there was anyway around it. -snip- Dave Miller has a mead ale as well that we recommended as an experiment. Has anyone tried making a gluten-free beer? Any ideas? -snip- I currently have on tap 5 gallons of small mead made from 3 lbs of generic honey and 2 gallons of cranberry raspberry juice cocktail, perhaps similar to Miller's mead ale. Yeast was Wyeast 1056. Must was oxygenated when cool. Yeast nutrient was used, as well as chalk to buffer our very soft water. Fermentation was complete within a month and it fermented dry. This is a wonderful beverage IMHO. It is tart, with strong fruit and subtle honey. I could only call it ale in a very general and perhaps ancient sense, since it contains no malt or hops. A hoppy small metheglin could easily be formulated. I doubt mead contains any gluten, but the lady should of course consult her doctor before taking any risk. If interested, I could give more recipe details. Wassail! -Grant Neue Des Moines Hausbrauerei Des Moines, Washington, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 04:08:54 EDT From: Biggiebigg at aol.com Subject: BIG glass "carboys" Did my eyes decieve me, or did someone mention recently that they were using some sort of large (twenty gallon???) carboy for fermentation? If i begin brewing larger brew lengths, what is the most reasonable way for me to continue using a standard size fridge for fermentation? also...what is the largest size i can fit into a "standard fridge? should i use ss pots with lids and some sort of makeshift blowoff? im NOT going to try to either move or manually oxygenate anything larger than six gallons...im assuming i will need a pump. but the questions remain...what is the most reasonable and workable way to brew a larger brew length and still use "fridges" with thermostats for fermenters? thanks in advance for any help! Jim Huskey Salina, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 10:58:57 -0600 (MDT) From: BrewsTraveler at adamsco-inc.com Subject: KROC World Brewers Forum 4th Annual KROC World Brewers Forum Even competing head-to-head with the first public session of the GABF, the 4th annual Forum was a success. Two exceptional speakers presented at the forum. The Craft Brewer Institute President, Ray Daniels presented: "Arsenic and Brown Malt: The Long Life and Hard Times of Porter," and Brad Kraus, head brewer at Wolf Canyon Brewing, presented a lively discussion of "Brewing Alt Beers." Ray Daniels provided a very humorous and informative speech on Porters, style origins, marketing, and their evolution. Ray discussed how both maltsters and marketeers evolved the style from its beginnings in the early 1700's to its demise in the middle of the 1800's. Porter production in the late 1700's was the second most capital-intensive business to start up (second only to banking). To properly age the earliest style porter, the beer was blended and aged in huge vats, seventeen times larger than anything in use today. Porter production was so celebrated and the vats so large that their grand opening in the late 1700's included dinner and dancing for 200 people -- in the vat itself! Ray also told a story of when one of these vats broke open spilling its contents of porter. The rushing beer immediately killed eight people but numerous more were injured as people rushed to the scene to consume the fine porter flowing in the streets! Brad Kraus told stories of his travels to Dusseldorf, Germany to sample Alt beer and understand its variations. Brad talked about the processes used by brewers to craft their alts, the style differences amongst breweries, the evolution of the style, and a few good beer drinking stories. During one of Brad's visits to Dusseldorf he was outside a pub, and a police car came screaming up lights flashing. The police officer jumped out of the car and grabbed an empty keg. When asked if it was an emergency, the officer stared "Of course it is, it is 10 minutes before shift change and we are out of beer!" Brad was kind enough to have brought along a party pig of his Alt beer. This exceptional sud later was awarded the Great American Beer Festival silver medal in the German-Style Brown Ale/Dusseldorf-Style Altbier category! Local homebrew supply stores and breweries donated over $1000 in raffle items, door prizes, and giveaways. The beer, brewed by KROC club members and donated by local breweries, flowed freely and no one in the room went home empty-handed. In addition to many beer enthusiasts and amateur brewers in attendance the professional community was well represented: Fred Eckhardt, Rob Moline, Brian Rezac, and Coors' Dr. Beer: Keith Villa. Making an appearance later in the evening were Charlie Papazian, Bill Seibel, and Bosco's Chuck Skypeck. - -- Copyright 1998 by John Adams Brews Traveler(tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:25:54 -0600 (MDT) From: BrewsTraveler at adamsco-inc.com Subject: GABF: Trip Report 17th Annual Great American Beer Festival The Great American Beer Festival (GABF) is a week of fun in which anyone may sample excellent beers from around the entire nation and a week of seeing old friends and making new acquaintances. This year's GABF was another fantastic beer vacation that started on the Saturday before at the 2nd Annual Brewers Olympics at the Lonetree Brewing Ltd. and ended late into the night one week later at the Falling Rock Tap House. As a member of the Professional Panel of Blind Tasting (PPBT) staff not only do I get to be part of the GABF behind-the-scenes, but I get to become good friends with many of the brewers. The usual suspects were in attendance: Fred Eckhardt, Ed and Carol Stoudt (Stoudt Brewing), Geoff Larson (Alaskan Brewing) and many others. The PPBT managers for the past fours years, Glenn and Jean Colon-Bonet, also stopped by to say hello. The first official kick-off of the fest was the Judges Orientation and Reception at the Rock Bottom Brewery. Rock Bottom brewer Bill Smith treated many of us to his special ancient-style specialty wheat. According to Bill this brew was based on an old Summerian recipe. It had a lovely coriander-like spice character and was very enjoyable. After catching up a bit with Alex Vigil (Gluek Brewing) and Ken Scheirberg (Oldenburg Brewing), a few of us headed over to the Bull and Bush to sample Patrick's Barley Wine and his soon-to-be-awarded Big Ben ESB, yummy! To rejoin our friends we headed over to The Falling Rock Tap House for a Paulaner Salvator night cap! Wednesday was the first day of judging and in the spirit of tradition (a long tradition) a hang-over was in order. Our morning session was German-Style Wheat Ales followed by Munchener Helles in the afternoon. Nothing gets you back on your feet faster than starting the morning with the hair of the dog! Wednesday evening was the Brewers Gathering over at the LoDo Music Hall Event Center. We got a head start by visiting Chris Black (Falling Rock Tap House) and had a few beers from his stock for a little pre-party libation. Stoudt Brewing brewed a special Marzen, and I got my first chance to sample it with both Ed and Carol. I talked with Sean Franklin (Roosters, Yorkshire England) about his recent fishing trip to the North Platte. I also said hello to Peter Camps (Celis) and Pierre Celis. After the gathering we headed back to the Falling Rock (for a post-party libation) for a Spaten Oktoberfest. We finished the night at our hotel room with Tom Hail (The Sandlot), Patrick Dobolek (Bull and Bush), and Ralph Koch (Kaltenberg Castle) consuming Heavenly Daze India Pale Ale and other beers from the day's judging. Thursday morning's judging sessions included Rauchbier followed by some very nice Barley Wine (Anchor's Old Foghorn and Avery's Hog Heaven) which put me in good spirits for that night's big event. After a quick bite to eat, I went over to the KROC World Brewers Forum with Ray Daniels (Craft Beer Institute) and Brad Kraus (Wolf Canyon). Brad brought a party pig of his Silver medal winning Alt Beer which is mighty tasty. Bill Siebel (Siebel Institute of Technology) and Charlie Papazian (Association of Brewers) made a brief appearance before doing the Stoogie and Stout party at the Rock Bottom. Friday morning was our only session with the Bock beers. After three days of GABF, I finally arrived at Currigan Hall. I attended the Business of Beer session followed by the Friday evening public session. I chatted with Institute for Brewing Studies Russ Schehrer Award winner Garret Oliver on the way to the hall. After only nine hours of drinking at the fest, the PPBT party was next on the agenda with hundreds of different beers, smoked-salmon, and a variety of delicious mead furnished by Glenn Colon-Bonet. Saturday was the first day I got more than five hours of sleep but without haste I headed over to the AHA Members-only session. I led a small but dedicated group on an AHA beer tour of Oktoberfest where we sampled all three medal winners including the Gold medal winning Norwester's Oktoberfest as well as many close contenders. I talked with Chuck Skypeck about his Steinbier and his breweries in Tennessee. The afternoon session blended into evening and before you know it it was last call. A few of the PPBT staff then grabbed a quick bite of Sushi and downed a Kirin Black. After this we went to, where else, the Falling Rock. I downed an Erdinger Weissbier with Dayton Canaday (Alaskan Brewing) and said my good-byes to all of my friends until next year. Every year this event gets better and better. The number and variety of beers increase, are higher quality, and the parties non-stop. Years and years of training is involved to reach this level of achievement. All-in-all I devoted more than 70 hours to beer drinking or beer drinking activities. Be forewarned, this pace is only for professionals and do not try this on your own. Until next year, Prost! - -- Copyright 1998 by John Adams Brews Traveler(tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:31:10 -0600 (MDT) From: BrewsTraveler at adamsco-inc.com Subject: Brewers Olympics Second Annual Brewers Olympics The 2nd Annual Brewers Olympics is an event that I would like to see more beer enthusiasts -amateur and professional- be involved with. The reason we drink and brew beer is to have fun, and this event exemplifies this behavior. The Colorado Brewers Guild sponsored event was held at Lonetree Brewery's parking lot. Lonetree, High Point, Bull and Bush, and Avery beers were available as well as porter-soaked brauts. Everyone that attended, participants and observers alike, enjoyed the drink, food, and of course, the events. This year's participants were Avery Brewing Co., the Birko Corporation, Bull and Bush Brewhouse (two teams), and Lonetree Brewing Ltd. The Olympics consist of eight different events, the winner of the most events winning Best of Show. Lonetree Brewing nearly swept the competition taking 5 of the 8 categories and winning Best of Show. The events and winners: Keg Catapult: Each team sees how far they can toss an empty keg. This event was taken by the boys from Lonetree. Barley Bag Relay: A relay-style race but instead of passing a baton, a sack of grain is used. The Avery team took this event. Spray Wars: Each team fills a beer cup from a distance of 5 feet. Best time wins. Winner: Lonetree Brewing. Mini Mash Movement: With only a small spoon, teams must move 5g of spent grain while holding a beer, no messes allowed. A very controversial event due to the "Avery Grab" which explains why they took the honors. Dolly Dash: Each team maneuvers a full keg on a hand truck through a slalom course. Lonetree takes the gold! Braille Pale Pour: A brains over brawn event. Teams have to fill 6 cups to the a pre-determined line while blind-folded. Lonetree again! Jack and Back Race: Using a lift, a pallet, two kegs, and one team member surfin, each team must do the slalom track without losing anything. The Bull and Bush team #1 take this honor. Death by Foam: Each team member needs to fill a pitcher of beer to the top with no foam allowed (and yes the beer was extremely foamy). Foam may be removed with a small spoon, no pouring off allowed. Lonetree is pulling away from the pack with the gold in this event. I would love to see this event grow to include homebrew supply stores, homebrew clubs, and professional brewers. This event would make an excellent finale to the week of beer at the Great American Beer Festival where the business of beer is just plain fun. - -- Copyright 1998 by John Adams Brews Traveler(tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 10:49:03 -0700 From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com Subject: valve stems >A question for you: have you stored beer in these for more than a week >or two? Does the rubber of the valve stem (which is probably butyl, >certainly not food grade and rather icky-smelling) impart any aroma >or flavour to the beer? What if you store it on its side (so the beer >actually touches the rubber)? Can this extract any unpleasant or >perhaps even dangerous compounds from the rubber? Chemists? Shouldn't be a problem if you purchase the metal (chrome plated brass) ones. I wouldn't be surprised if you could find stainless somewhere. There are small gaskets for these metal valve stems and you could always cut your own gaskets out of some food grade material. The metal valve stems are usually sold as *high performance* parts. They are held in place with a nut. I've used them many times in soda bottles and each of my kegs has one installed in the lid. I've never had any problems that I could pin on the valve stem. OTOH, I've never stored my beer for extended time in the PET bottles and my kegs are vertical in my fridge. If you are a doubter, a quick trip to the auto parts store would be in order. John Schnupp, N3CNL Colchester, VT 95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:09:47 -0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Pewter... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Pewter is an alloy of tin with antimony, copper and lead. The quantities of each can vary. I believe that pewter is not approved for food-handling utensils in the US, but I may be wrong. Generally, though, you don't see much pewter in the housewares section these days... See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org AOL FDN Beer & Brewing Maven BrewBeerd at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 17:18:40 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Pewter, Brewsters: Paul Haaf says "doesn't pewter contain lead?" Old pewter ( like in Paul Revere's day) was an alloy containing lead, but as far as I know, all modern U.S. pewter does not have lead in it. - ------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 19:53:00 -0400 (EDT) From: David Houseman <dhousema at cccbi.org> Subject: Changes in AHA Board of Advisors There have been some changes with member representation at the AHA. These have been posted on the AHA's Member Only web site but it seems to me that a broader audience should be made aware of them. In fact, I thought that someone who had read these would have already commented on this forum. Maybe they did and I missed it? At the AHA Conference in Portland this Summer, the Board of Advisors and the AHA voted to amend the By Laws of the Board of Advisors to make it's membership elected by the AHA membership as a whole. We also increased the number of Board of Advisors members. These new seats, and the current ones as they become open, will be filled by votes of the AHA membership. Nominations for the Board of Advisors to fill the current vacant seats are open. All AHA members can go to the Members Only section of the AHA web site to find the BOA By Laws governing these elections. BTW, although we voted these changes in July, the By Laws themselves required a waiting period after the final changes were made to them and were voted on to become effective. They were then posted on the web site. In addition to the AHA members now having elected representatives to the Board of Advisors, the Chair of the Board of Advisors is now a full voting member of the Assocation of Brewers Board of Directors. So that the AHA membership now has representation on the Board of Directors of the AOB. These are real, substantial and positive changes for AHA members. Paul, Brian and others at the AHA are committed to continuing these sort of changes and making the AHA more responsive and responsible to its members. This is only the begining of changes. Members should go to the Members Only section, read new By Laws, and send nominations for BOA to any of the Board members or to the AHA. Dave Houseman Member, AHA Board of Advisors Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 20:19:04 -0500 From: Keith Busby <kbusby at ou.edu> Subject: Bottle Fermentation What are the pros and cons of secondary fermentation in the bottle? I take it that using a second yeast at bottling could produce a more complex beer and improve aroma? Is there only a point in doing this with high gravity beers such as tripels? And what kind of quantities are we talking about for, say, a 5-gallon batch? Added with priming sugar at bottling? Is there any danger of exploding bottles? Gushing? I am assuming regular fermentation in carboys would be complete at bottling. Keith Busby Keith Busby George Lynn Cross Research Professor Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies University of Oklahoma 780 Van Vleet Oval, Room 202 Norman, OK 73019 Tel: (405) 325-5088. Fax: (405) 325-0103 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:22:09 -0700 From: "Doug Otto" <dotto at calweb.com> Subject: 240V GFI As mentioned in a couple other posts, I'm in the design phase of my version of a HERMs. From research I've been doing and listening to others I'm considering running the lauter tun heater on 240V to help maintain a steady temp. I'm planning on using basic water heater hardware to do the job for me. What concerns me is the lack of a ground leg on your standard 240V outlet here in the US. Because of the liquids involved and the amount of metal hardware, I'd like to run GFI on the circuit but have never seen such an animal for 240V. I know that for all intents the neutral leg is the same as ground, but is that good enough and are there GFI breakers available for 240V? Thanks - (hoisting a pint) - -- Doug Otto Sacramento, CA dotto at calweb.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:11:39 -0500 From: Duff Hickman <duff at unix.tamu.edu> Subject: Re: Polder Thermoprobes/Timers HBD, I also had one of these thermometer/timers start to give wacky readings after 1 or 2 uses. I think the problem is that they are designed for use in roasts, etc that are in the relatively dry environment of a heated oven. Assuming that you have the same model as mine, the upper end of the probe is just crimped onto the shielded wire and not sealed. I think in the hot, humid environment of a steaming mash or a pre-boil wort, water vapor works its way into the probe, shorting out (changing the resistance characteristics?) of the thermocouple inside. To test this theory and attempt to remedy the situation, I stuck the probe into an oven and heated it to 300F to dry it out. Sure enough, around 230F (by the oven's temp gauge) the readout temp on the Polder went nuts for a few minutes and eventually came to rest at the correct temp. Now, before each brew session, I dry it out in this fashion. It appears to work OK now, but I don't think I'd advise a friend to buy one. YMMV. -Duff - ------------------------- Duff Hickman College Station, TX - ------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 19:09:49 +0100 From: "Tom & Dee McConnell" <tdmc at bigfoot.com> Subject: home made carbonators seems to me that using the car tire valve stems is a good idea, but I share Al Korzonas' concern for the non-food grade rubber. But...... it would seem that one could coat the inside of the lid (and all but the tiniest of air inlet hole in the valve stem for seemingly obvious reasons!) with RTV or other silicon cement for a protective layer. agree? disagree? either way, we could all have a pint and not worry. Tom & Dee McConnell (tdmc at bigfoot.com) Littleport, Ely, Cambridgeshire, UK Return to table of contents
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