HOMEBREW Digest #2891 Thu 03 December 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  re: Oxygenation/Rye ("Timmons, Frank")
  Alts and Munich malt (Al Korzonas)
  Re: floating phil ("Andrew Avis")
  Pronunciations ad nauseum ("Brad McMahon")
  I feel your pain... (Eric.Fouch)
  Blue Ridge Brewing (Eric.Fouch)
  A quiet milestone (Charlie Papazian)
  Creating a standard recipe exchange format ("Tim Dallmann")
  Step Infusion Mash vs. RIMS type system Temperature Ramp Rate (CRHammond)
  Christmas Cards (BrwrOfBeer)
  "Pure brewed, double brewed..." (Donald Beistle)
  malted rice (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com>
  Re: prounoucing SAAZ ("Chuck Mryglot")
  RE: Air Stones ("David Root")
  Re:  Lambics on side or upright ("J. Matthew Saunders")
  limit repeated text in reply ("Paul E. Lyon")
  RE: Does Oxygenation with O2 increase lag time? (Matt Comstock)
  Re: Pa Brewpubs ("Jim Busch")
  Pocket Beer Engine, was: Light beer fix? (Jeff Renner)
  ALUMINUM ("Dave Olson")
  Yeast do NOT fix nitrogen. (Domenick Venezia)
  Yeast utilizing N2 ("George De Piro")
  Re: ld? (fwd) (Jim Liddil)
  Electrical wiring 101 (Jeremy Bergsman)
  Oxygen, nitrogen, and yeast... (ALAN KEITH MEEKER)
  plambic hops (Matthew Arnold)
  Labels --- the solution (Danny Breidenbach)
  Re: Phil's Phalse Bottom (Mark E. Lubben)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 13:45:00 -0700 From: "Timmons, Frank" <Frank.Timmons at alliedsignal.com> Subject: re: Oxygenation/Rye In HBD 2889, William W. Macher wrote asking about O2 oxygenation of wort increasing his lag times. I'm no expert on the subject either, but I think that you may be overdoing the O2 a little. My el cheapo system with the disposable bottle says to run the O2 for 2 bursts of 20 to 30 seconds each. I have heard that excessive oxygen can greatly increase lag times, and may be toxic to the yeast. On another subject, I brewed my rye beer last week, with 50% rye malt. Used a 108/122/150/168 schedule with 1 lb of rice hulls and had no problems with stuck runoff. It was no worse, or slower than any wheat beer I have brewed. Frank Timmons Richmond, Va Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 13:11:16 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: Alts and Munich malt Jeff writes: >Troy Hager <thager at bsd.k12.ca.us > >>I too have been rereading all the great posts about alt brewing and am >>getting ready to brew one soon. I have decided to do a single decoction and >>use 100% Weyermanns Dark Munich malt. ><snip> > >That will be too dark by a good bit. Alts are dark copper to light brown >(excepting Sticke). Dornbusch's book (despite its shortcomings pointed out >here) gives only one all-Munich recipe - one that uses an unusually light >Munich at 6.5L. I'm not sure how dark Weyermann's dark Munich is, but I >think it's at least double that. Durst's is16L. I used 100% Durst dark >Munich for a Dunkel and it is a deep brown (and very good). Decoction will >make it even darker. > >I'd suggest regular Munich (~8L) and some Vienna (~3.5L) or Pils (~1.4L), >but I hasten to admit that I've had only one authentic Alt (swingtop hand >carried from D'dorf). Save the dark Munich for Dunkels or Bocks. Hmmm... I used between 8 and 8.5 pounds of Weyermann Dark Munich and 1 pound of DeWolf-Cosyns Aromatic (25L) in an infusion mash and got a very nice Duesseldorfer Altbier whose colour was in range for the style. I even compared it to Zum Uerige side-by-side and the colour was very close. Dusseldorfer Altbiers really can get as dark as "brown." I don't recall how dark the Weyermann Dark Munich is in Lovibond or EBC. I have it on paper at home. I agree with Jeff, however, that the decoction would darken the beer and if I were doing a decoction, I'd use between 9 and 9.5# of the Dark Munich and leave out the Aromatic. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:49:10 -0500 From: "Andrew Avis" <Andrew.Avis.aavis at nt.com> Subject: Re: floating phil Several people have offered solutions to the phloating phalse bottom syndrome (PPBS). I haven't seen this one yet, which I have used with much success. Obtain about 35-40" of high pressure food grade hose (this is semi-clear, re-enforced with nylon braiding - available bulk at Home Depot etc). You'll have to measure the circumference of the false bottom, I can't remember what it is exactly. Cut the hose to this length, soften it in hot water, and then slit it length-wise. Wrap the hose around the edge of the phalse bottom, and voila, you've got a "gasket" that fits the Gott cooler bottom perfectly. I have digital pictures of my PPBS solution, but no web site to put them on. Does anyone want them? Regards, Drew in Calgary (2000 km? NW of Jeff Renner) Andrew Avis Technical Writer, Nortel Terminals Documentation ESN 775-7393 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 07:24:12 +0930 From: "Brad McMahon" <brad at sa.apana.org.au> Subject: Pronunciations ad nauseum >>Otherwise! I've not it heard pronounced either way. >>In German the double a is pronounced like a long a in English, >>as in car, far, and guitar. The s is pronounced as a z >>so the the word sounds like: zarz. >The "ar" pronounciation of broad a is a peculiarity of >Australian English. Most others pronounce it as "ah". >(Dialectical differences used to drive me nuts...) Dialectical differences continue to drive me nuts :-) I would argue that it is not a peculiarity of Australian English per se, rather that it is a peculiarity of most U.S. accents to vocalise the "r" for much longer than in UK/Aus English. But yes I stand corrected (for US audiences at least :-) ) >In German, "a" is pronounced "ah", and double a is similar, but >a bit broader. English lost lengthened vowels soon after the >Norman Conquest. Damned Frogs! Actually there are quite a few lengthened vowels in English, but I guess that depends on accent again. The a in "Father" springs to mind. >The Germans would pronounce "Saaz" as "zahtz", but I doubt that >the word is German. Yes, that's probably more correct. Spencer Thomas also corrected me on this privately. the z is a tz sound in High German. However, my accent is largely Bavarian, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. The word Saaz is German though. In western Bohemia, there are many ethnic Germans (part of the excuse for German invasion in '38), so there are many place names which have both German and Czech names. eg. Plzen/Pilsen, Karlovy Vary/Karlsbad, Cesky Budejovicky/Budweis, and Zatec/Saaz. >BTW, the Germans call Australia "OWZ-trahl-ee-en" (or sometimes >"owz-TRAHL-ee-en"). Actually, both are fairly close to the mark :-) It is of course, Ah-STRAY-lya(n) One thing we hate though is some Americans' pronunciation of Aussie. It is Ozzie not Oss-sea.. but I digress... >So, is "FAWS-tahs" *really* "aws-TRAYL-yin for bee-uh"? Actually no, unless you go overseas where the ads tell you that. In any case the Fosters avail. in the U.S. is brewed for that market, same as the Asian version is different and the U.K. version is as well from the domestic version. Fosters is only drunk in New South Wales. Unlike the U.S. where big breweries are popular nationally, Australians are still very pariochial about their beer and drink their local state beer. All the best, Brad Brad McMahon brad at sa.apana.org.au Return to table of contents
Date: 1 Dec 1998 16:17:41 -0500 From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com Subject: I feel your pain... From: Redholling at aol.com Subject: I think I can...I think I can... Brewrus (that would be brewing gurus), I apalogize for bothering the masses again with my cider with preservatives = crappy fermentation problem again, but while my local brew shops are very curtious in their attempts to help me I find they know two things about making cider; jack and sh*#. To bring you up-to-date: I'm making a cider with 4 gallons of apple cider (w/ potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate and malic acid), 4 lbs of brown sugar boiled in 1.5 G water, and 1 pk wine yeast. O.G.=1.052. After 4 days of no airlock action I repitched same brand wine yeast. For next 7 days I got airlock bubbles anywhere from once a minute to once per 20 seconds. So after 11 days total in primary I racked over to secondary on top of another wine yeast pack boiled in a cup of water (as nutrient). The gravity was still 1.052!?! Hey Red- I did pretty much the same thing last year: I accidently bought preserved cider, and to four gallons added 5 pounds of honey and a couple of cans of AJ concentrate. Innoculated with Widmere Hefe yeast. Nothing. A few days later, threw in a different yeast. A little activity. About 20 pts. worth, then nothing. A month or so later, I racked off a gallon, and added back a gallon of AJ. Not much happened. Another month later, I bottled a gallon of it and added another gallon of AJ. It finally took off, but by then, it had such a funky taste due to the two months of sitting around.....I could only dump it. The only thing I HAVE EVER DUMPED. It was that bad. I tried flavoring aliquots of it with different combinations of spices and acids and juices to cover up or play off the funky taste, and made my buddies try it during the intermissions of last years Stanley Cup Playoffs. No Go. Dumped. My advice to you would be to rack off two gallons now, and replace it with two new gallons of fresh unpreserved cider and honey or brown sugar, whatever and it should take off. You might be able to dilute the two gallons with ten pounds of honey diluted up to two gallons with water and make a cyser. The problem is definitely the preservative concentration. Overpowering with massive doses of yeast won't do it, as previously suggested. Sorry I didn't answer sooner, but I've been gone. I currently did the same recipe as last years dumpfest using FRESH cider from a guy who squeezed it himself: adding the honey, AJ concentrate and Widmere Hefe yeast, and It's been going great guns. I did a half gallon spontaneous also (after bringing it back from deer camp, the jug was swelled, so I put an airlock on it) just for funsies. Keep me posted! Eric Fouch Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Kentwood MI Return to table of contents
Date: 1 Dec 1998 16:36:47 -0500 From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com Subject: Blue Ridge Brewing HBD- Kudos to Blue Ridge Brewing in Greenville SC. On a family trip to SC for Thanksgiving, I snuck my "joe six- pack" brother in law out to this fine brewpub for a few pints. After educating his palate on the sampler at BRB, and a few of my homebrews, I left him with a desire to start homebrewing. BRB's had all the typical offerings, an American Wheat, pale ale, bitter, porter and stout. All pretty darn good. They use Wyeast 1968. My favorite was the APA. The first time we got the sampler, the second time a few pints of our favorites. The samplers all had good head. The follow-up pints were relatively headless. Could have been the glassware. The Cajun style Crawdads were wonderfull! Carry on. Eric Fouch Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Kentwood MI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:03:36 -0700 From: Charlie Papazian <charlie at aob.org> Subject: A quiet milestone This Saturday, December 5 is the 20th birthday of the American Homebrewers Association and the first issue of Zymurgy. I think I'll have a beer - not just any beer but a homebrew and personally toast the thousands of homebrewers, clubs, beer enthusiasts and especially staff and staff volunteers who throughout the years have put us where we are. ... And have turned the world onto craft made beer. - -- Charlie Papazian President Association of Brewers (303) 447-0816 x 111 (voice) 736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 (fax) PO Box 1679 charlie at aob.org (e-mail) Boulder, CO 80306-1679 72210.2754 at compuserve.com (e-mail) U.S.A. http://beertown.org (web) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 17:57:02 -0700 From: "Tim Dallmann" <tdallmann at gr.com> Subject: Creating a standard recipe exchange format Hi All, You may recall a while ago I posted a note about trying to come up with a standard format for exchanging recipes between the various recipe programs out there. I have created a mailing list and related web site to handle the discussion, which has already been joined by about 11 people, including several who have written their own recipe programs (Mark Riley's Recipator, Jeffrey Donovan's ProMash, and others who have written spreadsheet applications). If you are interested in joining in the discussions, or just watching to see what happens, go to the following web site to sign up for the list: http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Facility/8388/ Looking forward to sharing recipes with you all... Tim Dallmann Denver, CO Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 21:48:19 EST From: CRHammond at aol.com Subject: Step Infusion Mash vs. RIMS type system Temperature Ramp Rate In discussions of RIMS type systems I keep seeing statements that mash temperature ramp rates should be less than 1 (or 2) degrees F/min or the mash enzymes will be destroyed. I have been doing step infusion mashes for several years where I dump boiling water into my mash to raise its temperature tens of degrees very quickly. This corresponds to ramp rates of 10 degrees F/min or greater. The Fix's do this in their test mashes in their book "An Analysis of Brewing Techniques." Why does this not destroy the enzymes? I get complete conversions (iodine test). What am I missing in my understanding? Is it that at the higher ramp rates, RIMS type systems get the recirculating wort too hot (>170) and thus destroy the enzymes -- in other words, are the high ramp rates a symptom of something else that also causes enzyme destruction? On a related note, I used to heat my domestic hot water with a tankless coil in my oil furnace. Due to the high mineral content of my water (my tea kettle furs up), I went with a different system to heat my hot water before the tankless coil completely scunged up. I am eyeing this coil as a heat source to heat my sparge water -- the furnace typically runs between 170 and 190 degrees F. This could also be the basis for a RIMS type system. Has anyone tried anything like this? I will probably rinse the coil out with an acid solution (Lactic or Phosphoric) before use to clean out the minerals (CaCO3). Reif Hammond Durham, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 22:22:10 EST From: BrwrOfBeer at aol.com Subject: Christmas Cards Since it's getting close to chirstmas does anyone know if anyone makes any christmas cards based on brewing. If so where. Cheers BrewerOfBeer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:44:42 -0500 (EST) From: Donald Beistle <dbeistle at arches.uga.edu> Subject: "Pure brewed, double brewed..." All the talk lately about references to krauesening in beer ads from the greater Great Lakes region has me reminiscing about my own dissolute youth. I have to add my voice to fray, affirming that it indeed was the House of Heileman that touted the benefits of krauesening for its Old Style brand. Anybody else remember when Old Style was "Pure brewed, double brewed in the late '70s and early '80s? By the way, has anyone else noticed a correlation between early exposure to krauesening-related beer advertising and an interest in the Classic American Pilsner movement? I know I've got the bug and everyone else associated with recreating this style seems to hail from Wisconsin or Michigan.Is there some Proustian compulsion to recapture the Old Styles and Hubers and Hammeses and Lithias from out of our childhoods driving us to brew with corn and domestic hops? Drawing the shades and lining my bedroom with cork in Athens, Georgia Don Beistle (20 hours SSE of the land of sky blue waters) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 07:08:04 +0100 From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com> Subject: malted rice Hi, I'm looking for information about (and if possible a supplier of) malted rice. Does anyone know if malted rice exist? If so, where can I look for info? TIA, Hans http://www.cybercomm.nl/~aikema/index.html (my homebrewing is better than my webediting) Greetings from Holland, Hans Aikema Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 07:15:37 -0500 From: "Chuck Mryglot" <cmryglot at Progress.com> Subject: Re: prounoucing SAAZ Alan Edwards <ale at cisco.com> writes : >Subject: prounoucing SAAZ > >Michael Jackson, in his "BeerHunter" video series pronounced it something >like ZAHT-zuh, much to my surprise. That is the correct pronunciation. It is a German word and that is how it is prounced in German. The 'S' at the beginning of a word is pronounced as 'Z' and the 'Z' at the end of a word is pronounced as 'TS'. So, in English think "ZAHTS" Prosit und Zum Wohl ChuckM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 07:28:23 -0500 From: "David Root" <droot at concentric.net> Subject: RE: Air Stones Kirk Harralson has a problem with his air stone phloating. I have had bad exp with air stones also. I've tried to hold them down with a spoon, and other ways. Now I just put the O2 in the drain line of my Fermenter. I a m putting in nothing but clean, pure 02. I used to put the O2 into the drain line of my brew kettle, but the action of all the bubbles breaks up the hot break and makes cloudy wort. Now i wait until the yeast is pitched and then hit it with about 2-3 minutes of welding oxyegen. If too much O2 is used, it seems like lag time is a little longer, esp with the starter. O2 Definatly helps get the ferment going. I open ferment in a 1/2 sanky, 11 gallons at a time. I use a gallon starter and O2. I do not have an infection problem that I can tell. droot at concentric.net Lockoport NY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 08:12:37 -0500 From: "J. Matthew Saunders" <saunderm at vt.edu> Subject: Re: Lambics on side or upright Rob writes: >While in a lambic frame of mind, what's the general opinion on storage of >commercial, corked lambics? On their side or upright? You'll want to keep the cork moist, so on its side is better than upright. If the bottle is caged, this is pretty much essential if you want to cellar it for any period of time. If the bottle is corked then capped (like Lindemans framboise, kriek, and peche) it probably doesn't matter, but why take the chance? Besides, a bunch of lambics on a wine rack looks pretty cool. Speaking in the Lambic mode. I got my mitts on a few bottles of Hanssens Oude Gueze bottled in 1991. To my surprise there was no cage on the bottle, and the neck was chipped like someone took a hammer to it. Despite all that, it was probably the best bottle of Gueze I have EVER had. A pal of mine and I sat sniffing the stuff for at least 10 minutes before even sipping. Not too sour, full of barnyard, fruit esters, leather, moss, and the list goes on. Probably the most complex beer I've tasted. If any you get a chance to have some (assuming you like lambics), don't hesitate. Cheers! Matthew. =========================================================== The Arts in Technology--Creative Consulting and Contracting J. Matthew Saunders (540)951-3090 saunderm at vt.edu http://www.dogstar.org "We have to work in the theatre of our own time, with the tools of our own time" --Robert Edmond Jones =========================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 08:58:50 -0500 From: "Paul E. Lyon" <lyon at osb1.wff.nasa.gov> Subject: limit repeated text in reply Fellow brewers, We should try to limit the amount of text copied from the hbd post that we are replying to so that the same text is not posted over and over. The page down key doesn't always solve the problem either. I have a text reader that reads the hbd to me while I get other work done, so I have to suffer through repeated questions hidden in responses to those questions. Also, we have that 50K limit for each digest to worry about. A little cutting will go a long way :) Thanks, P.E.L. - ----------------------------------- - Paul E. Lyon EG&G Services Inc. - - Ocean Color Research - - lyon at osb.wff.nasa.gov - - ----------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 09:33:43 -0500 From: Matt Comstock <MComstock at shepherdcolor.com> Subject: RE: Does Oxygenation with O2 increase lag time? Ronald La Borde said: Recently our club had a guest speaker, Henryck Orlick, Brewmaster; Abita Brewing C0, who gave us some tips on yeast in brewing. He suggested that air was better than pure O2 because air contains nitrogen, and it was his advice that the nitrogen is used by the yeast to some degree as nutrient, thus air is better, in his opinion, than pure 02. - --- Do yeast fix N2? This paragraph is confusing to me. What nitrogen source does the noble yeast use in its life cycle? Organic amines, NR3, ammonium ions, NH4+, amino acids, molecular nitrogen, N2...? Matt Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:05:18 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Re: Pa Brewpubs Bob inquires: <Here in Pennsylvania we are seeing a number of small breweries <falling by the wayside. Why? Whats happening? I have been hearing <about the "fallout and shakeup" of the breweries for some time now. <Is it a matter of getting taps in barrooms and too much competition? Each market is a little different but overall we have some common factors facing the craft brewing industry. Right now we see supply exceeding demand by a good bit with demand growing but in single digit levels per year versus the double digit growth of years past. So part of the story is simple business 101 economics. The other part is to distinguish brewpubs from micros/brewery-restaurants or just shipping micros. A pure brewpub has all the same problems as a regular restaurant and the failure rate for restaurants is very high, in fact much higher than the failure rate for brewpubs. Additionally, any brewery is a capital intensive endeavor so you have to have a good business sense to properly scale your operation to have a large enough brewhouse to meet demand and be profitable but not too large that you are forced to service debt greater than the cash flow can support. Too many successful brewers ran out and did vast expansions thinking that the lower unit costs will make them viable only to find the market share/demand is not there. Another factor is in the current highly competitve marketplace you need all three pillars to be fundementally sound, beer formulation/stability, artwork/packaging and marketing/distribution. Add to that a healthy dose of business sense and 60+ hour workweeks and you can make a go at it. Dont kid yourself that this is a romantic fun industry anymore, it can be but its tons of hard work and sweat equity and you have to be very patient to see a return on investment. In general one can do much better in the stock market, at least in the short term. Last year Pa had one of the highest rates of new breweries opened and also one of the highest failure rates. And Pa is somewhat unique in that there are strong regional brands competing at an attractive price point. < Is it the general public tired of paying$3-$4 for a glass of <beer? If its an average or infected beer then yes. < Are we to fear the that the great Stoudts or the wonderful <Victory (both in PA) will follow the lead of these other brew Victory is alive and well and growing, albeit at a deliberate sustainable pace. We place the value/integrity of the brands first and foremost over the bottom line and believe that with distinctive brands that differentiate us we will do well and prosper for the long term. We want to build a foundation that can be passed on to the next generation as a thriving sustainable privately owned business. Its the beer, stupid, but its much more too. Prost! Jim Busch "A Victory for your Taste!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 09:45:47 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Pocket Beer Engine, was: Light beer fix? "Ratkiewich, Peter" <PRATKIEWICH at ci.westport.ct.us> wrote: >On my first attempt at using a Munton's kit I apparently made a pretty >stupid error. I added too much water to the extract and ended up with >too much volume for the batch size....the >OG was supposed to be around 1042-1044. ... the OG ended up at 1034 > ... Can I add some additional extract at this >point? Or is this beer simply destined for unwanted guests and >Ne'er-do-wells? I don't see a problem with boiling up some additional extract in a thick 1/2 gallon or so and adding it while it's still fermenting, or you could blend it with another stronger beer. But don't disparage low gravity beer - 1.034 is typical of English ordinary bitter. The nice thing about this strength "session beer" is that you can drink more of it - a whole evening of darts at the pub with everyone standing his obligatory round. It will probably be fine as long as you don't overchill or overcarbonate it, which will make it taste thin. If it is too gassy, you can duplicate the low CO2 smoothness of a hand pulled pint using my "Pocket Beer Engine" posted here several years ago and published in Zymurgy under the less imaginative original name of "30 cent beer engine" (thanks to whoever on HBD who suggested the new and improved name). This is simply a 5 cc or 10 cc syringe (no needle). You can probably get one cheap or even free from your local pharmacy - ask for an oral syringe - the kind used for giving liquid medicine to little children. Lately I've been using a dental irrigator - a 10 cc syringe with a curved plastic tip and a very small opening. This gives really good velocity to the squirt. To use it, pour yourself a beer (cellar temp., or 55F) and allow some freeboard. If it's very fizzy, it'll really foam up. Better to use less priming sugar or turn down the pressure on the keg. Then suck some of the beer up in the syringe and squirt it forcefully back in the glass. You'll degas it and get a great tight head. With practice you'll learn how you like it. You might do this over the sink first time. There is an element of danger in it. After I posted this originally, many brewers wrote to say how much they liked it, but one guy chipped his tooth! It seems that it foamed up over the top. Not wanting to lose good beer, he lunged forward to drink the foam and hit his tooth on the top of the mug. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 09:37:52 -0600 From: "Dave Olson" <Dolson at metrosales.com> Subject: ALUMINUM I have constructed a gravity flow tower configuration out of some free 1" aluminum stock tubing I got. We TIG welded it together and everything looks good. I plan to use King Cooker burners. They will be placed right under the aluminum stand top. The flame will come in direct contact with the aluminum tubing. This is the root of my concern. Does anyone know of a way to insulate the tubing as the temp will likely be passing melt temps? There are refractory mortars out there but I don't know how to use it best. Has any one tried to build a stand from aluminum? I hate to scrap the whole thing but it may be the only choice I have. Thanks! dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 07:53:09 -0800 From: Domenick Venezia <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: Yeast do NOT fix nitrogen. From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) #2890 > Recently our club had a guest speaker, Henryck Orlick, Brewmaster; > Abita Brewing C0, who gave us some tips on yeast in brewing. He > suggested that air was better than pure O2 because air contains > nitrogen, and it was his advice that the nitrogen is used by the yeast > to some degree as nutrient, thus air is better, in his opinion, than > pure 02. Yeast, in fact all fungi, can NOT use molecular nitrogen as a nutrient. This magic is restricted to nitrogen-fixing bacteria. There are lots of genera of bacteria that can reduce atmospheric nitrogen to ammonium, but the most important are members of the genus Rhizobium. These bacteria symbiotically join with plant root cells of legumes to form root nodules in which the bacteria live. The bacteria absorb molecular atmospheric nitrogen (N2) and reduce it to ammonium which is then available to the plant as a nitrogen source. If the lag time increase that was observed with aeration with pure O2 was a real effect and not caused by some other variable in the brewing process, then I would suspect O2 toxicity. Remember high concentrations of O2 are toxic to living things. A human being breathing pure O2 will die rather quickly, due to oxidative damage - they rust! That's why it's important to take your anti-oxidants. Hydrogen peroxide and ozone are other toxic oxidizers used as microbicides. Cheers! Domenick Venezia demonick at zgi dot com Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$ 500. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 10:54 -0800 From: "George De Piro" <George_De_Piro at berlex.com> Subject: Yeast utilizing N2 Hi all, Ron wrote: "Recently our club had a guest speaker, Henryck Orlick, Brewmaster; Abita Brewing C0, who gave us some tips on yeast in brewing. He suggested that air was better than pure O2 because air contains nitrogen, and it was his advice that the nitrogen is used by the yeast to some degree as nutrient, thus air is better, in his opinion, than pure 02." Back to me: Somebody recently posted this to the IBS Forum. It's amazing how quickly misinformation can be spread with the power of modern technology! Yeast *cannot* use N2 (atmospheric nitrogen) as a nitrogen source, just as some plants cannot (without the aid of nitrogen fixing bacteria). The whole thing about yeast nutrients is confusing to me: if you are making an all-malt, all-grain beer, there is PLENTY of amino nitrogen (and other nutrients) for the yeast to be happy. If you find that you need yeast nutrients in your production wort you are doing something wrong. I have met brewers who prefer to use air rather than pure O2 because they believe that their yeast perform poorly if given too much O2. While this is arguable, it is not ridiculous. Have fun! George de Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 09:12:21 +0000 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu> Subject: Re: ld? (fwd) Due to an extreme lack of interest, as indicated by no postings or significant inquirories since sometime last year, or perhaps because we said all there was to say, the digest is either in long term hibernation or its 6 feet under (dead). Should anyone be interested in reviving the digest, they can contact me at msharp at netcom.com. All of the necessary software, archives, accounts and mailing list are in place still on realbeer.com. It just needs to be turned on again. --Mike (the LD founder) - ---------- End Forwarded Message ---------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:40:27 -0800 From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb at leland.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Electrical wiring 101 Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> wrote: > 1. Evidently someone cheated. I would check local code but I don't think > it is legal to use 2 wire + neutral for 230 2 phase incoming power. The > builder may be outside of code and may be responsible for rewiring the > incoming wiring to your condo. Check local code before calling the dogs. There is nothing wrong with this. This is standard practice for circuits offering only 240V without 120V. Maybe because you believe that the bare wire is neutral, in which case it would be illegal because there would be no ground. > 2. In spite of this you already have 2 120 VAC lines in your home. > Black to bare and white to bare. The bare wire is your neutral not your > ground. Ground is "GROUND" as in DIRT and is attached to the breaker box > itself from the grounding stake outside your home. There should be a > grounding strap or a copper wire running to the electrical box, the > grounding buss, on one end and a steel post outside on the other. This is > usually not inside the service conduit. NO! THIS IS NOT CORRECT! Sorry for shouting but I think it's pretty important. The bare wire is ground, the white is neutral. It is true that there are 2 120V lines in most US houses, but conventionally these are both black (never rely on wire colors!). You can check for yourself by using a voltage tester to test for voltage between white and bare either in a box or in the panel. There shouldn't be any. In the panel itself you won't actually need to check since you will see all the whites and grounds on a common bus. > > 3. Check at the switches and outlets in the house and check the breaker > box. Are the standard 120 VAC breakers wired with 2 wire + ground. The > bare ground wires from these should go to a grounding buss in the box. If > this is the case then you have neutrals and grounds. Since there seems to be a bit of confusion, let me attempt a brief primer. If I make a mistake I'm sure I'll be corrected. I'm not an electrician, but I've rewired my entire house including the service entrance with city inspections of my work. Note that this is for current wiring and there may be exceptions. I'm sure it is US-specific. Older wiring should be similar but without grounds. If you have knob and tube wiring you're on your own! *********************************************************************** You have 3 wires entering your house from the street. One of these is called "neutral" and is electrically equivalent to the ground, i.e. it has the actual potential of the dirt outside your house, when compared to the other wires. The other wires are each ~110-120V different from the neutral, but at any given time, in opposite dirctions, so that they are 240V different from each other. (These are of course the max voltages in the 60 Hz AC cycle.) When the wires come into your panel, after passing through the $ meter, the 2 hots are hooked to 2 busses onto which breakers can be mounted. Each breaker therefore taps one of 2 hot busses. 240V breakers tap both busses. One black wire should come out of a 120V breaker, two out of a 240 V breaker. These are the hot wires of a circuit. The incoming neutral wire bypasses the breakers and goes to another bus. This bus should be locally grounded at your house by a metal rod driven into the ground (those are fun to bang in!). I believe it also needs to be attached to your plumbing system. From this bus run neutral (white) wires if needed and ground (bare or green) wires (always needed). >From this you can see that white and bare are electrically the same, but they serve different purposes. Current should never be deliberately run on a bare wire. The insulation is there for a purpose! Even though it is mostly in the romex, unarmored cable is legal in metal conduit, and it will be out of the romex in junction/outlet boxes. In fact it should be attached to the outlet boxes. Therefore if there is voltage applied to the bare it will be applied to the screws on your switches and plugs, the metal surfaces of any grounded appliances on that circuit, and any exposed metal electrical boxes. Granted under normal conditions the path through the bare wire to the panel will be very low compared to other paths, but there would be a lot of leak in this set up and if there were a fault somewhere you would now have exposed 120V all over your house. The ground wire is there to provide easy protection for exposed surfaces should a fault occur. The neutral wire is there to provide a return path for "used" current. A typical lighting or outlet circuit will have 1 black, 1 white, and 1 ground. You should see 120V or so betwen the black and the 2 other wires if you test it. A 240 V circuit has 2 blacks (alternate hot wires are often red) and a ground. A 120/240V circuit has 2 blacks, a white, and a ground. My oven is like this. I imagine it uses the 2 hots to make 240 V for the elements and one of the hots and the neutral to make 120V for the electronic controls or maybe the convection fan. Regular circuit breakers test the outgoing current on the black wire. They really only try to protect from fire and melting your wiring by putting too much current through them. Safety-wise they assume that the current is returning properly. GFCI devices have been well described here recently. Note that they can only work downstream of themselves. You can buy a GFCI breaker for your service panel, in which case the white wire to the circuit will also come from the breaker, which has a white "pigtail" going to the white/neutral bus. This protects the entire circuit. One can more cheaply and easily buy a GFCI outlet. These protect the power supplied through the outlet. Some (all?) can be wired so that the rest of the circuit (i.e. that that is farther from the panel than that outlet) is attached to the output side of the GFCI, protecting other, regular plugs. If attached to the first plug, these are almost as good as a GFCI breaker. Be safe folks. If you've never done this stuff get some help from a good book or someone who knows what he/she is doing. - -- Jeremy Bergsman jeremybb at leland.stanford.edu http://www.stanford.edu/~jeremybb Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 11:39:59 -0500 (EST) From: ALAN KEITH MEEKER <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: Oxygen, nitrogen, and yeast... In response to the query about aerating with pure oxygen Ron La Borde wrote, "Recently our club had a guest speaker, Henryck Orlick, Brewmaster; Abita Brewing C0, who gave us some tips on yeast in brewing. He suggested that air was better than pure O2 because air contains nitrogen, and it was his advice that the nitrogen is used by the yeast to some degree as nutrient, thus air is better, in his opinion, than pure 02." I think this is a case study in not believing everything the "experts" tell you! To my knowledge brewers yeast CANNOT directly utilize elemental nitrogen which is in the form of diatomic (N2) gas. In fact, few organisms can. Nitrogen is however a key element in the molecules of life as we know it (on this planet anyway), being a prime constituent of all proteins and nucleic acids just to name a couple. Most organisms cannot use elemental gasseous nitrogen from the air (air is approximately 80% nitrogen) as a source of cellular nitrogen. Instead, they use various nitrogen containing compounds such as urea or ammonium salts (check the ingredients list on your plant fertilizers or yeast energizers) or they import the smaller building blocks of large cellular macromolecules directly (amino acids to make proteins, nucleotides to make the nucleic acids DNA and RNA). Atmospheric nitrogen can be converted to such useable forms by specialized bacteria that "fix" the nitrogen thus making it available to us "higher" life forms but I doubt that we have (or want!) such bacteria active in our growing fermentations, though I suppose they may be doing things differently down there in Louisianna! Our yeast get their nitrogen from compounds in the wort itself not from the dissolved N2 gas present. This is one of the reasons that sack meads are so slow to ferment - there's precious little nitrogen available in honey. As to why the original poster saw a protracted lag time after aerating with pure O2, my guess is that you may have put TOO MUCH oxygen into the wort. The old adage about "too much of a good thing..." is certainly true for oxygen which is in fact toxic at elevated concentrations. It seems likely that by using *pure O2* rather than air (about 20% O2) one could reach an oxygen concentration in the wort that would inhibit the growth of the yeast, at least initially. In addition, given all the effort expended in trying to avoid wort oxidation I tend to shudder at the thought of pumping pure O2 into the wort. Does anyone have any references on the effects of this practice on either yeast growth or possible negative flavor outcomes?? I sure would like to see the results of some actual studies... Keep breathing -Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 16:43:44 GMT From: marnold at ez-net.com (Matthew Arnold) Subject: plambic hops Greetings all, Seeing as the Lambic Digest doesn't seem to currently exist, I'll post this here. I know that at some point in the future, I'm going to want to try to brew a plambic. So, I thought it would be best if I start aging some hops now. I know that the hops are added more for preservative reasons than bittering, flavor, or aroma. I've got some extremely low alpha Hersbrucker pellets (1.3%) that I thought would be ideal for this situation. I was going to just put them in a paper bag and let them sit. Sound like a plan, you plambic brewers out there? Matt - ----- Webmaster, Green Bay Rackers Homebrewers' Club http://www.rackers.org info at rackers.org Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 11:58:46 -0500 From: Danny Breidenbach <DBreidenbach at nctm.org> Subject: Labels --- the solution Here's what I do for labels: I shell out a few extra cents for plain gold crown caps, then I shell out a bit for a Sharpie, and then I write the number of the batch on the cap. "Hey Danny, got anymore of 26?" Works well in and out of ice. For folks who really want labels --- I recommend you use the labels on presentation bottles --- i.e., as gifts. At parties ..... well it's homebrew ... it you wanted a snazzy label you'd buy a micro-brew. - --Danny Brewing in Ashburn, VA. Quite a hike south and east of Jeff Renner. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:24:29 -0500 From: mel at genrad.com (Mark E. Lubben) Subject: Re: Phil's Phalse Bottom I have heard of lots of ways to keep a Phil's Phalse Bottom(tm) down, but no one mentioned my favorite. I initially considered a copper tube to hold it down by weight. Unfortunately it is soft and out in the middle so vigorous stirring once can kink it forever. A nice piece of stainless was unavailable and probably too expen$ive! The way I found to keep a Phalse Bottom down uses a piece of racking cane. Since I had an old one that broke at the bend, it cost me nothing. If you decide to buy a new cane or piece of hard plastic tubing from the hardware store it might cost a couple bucks. Heat it with nearly boiling water and check for cracking before use... I clamped a 2 or 3 inch piece of the original siphon hose from the cane to the elbow on the Phalse bottom. After inserting the bottom in the cooler, I inserted the end of the broken cane which used to have the red/black plastic tip thingie though the hole where the tap was removed from the Gott cooler. Without a stopper I could play around verify lengths. I marked it so with 1 inch gap from elbow I would have about two inches of cane outside the cooler when it was coupled. After sawing the cane to length with a hacksaw and sanding, I put the stopper on the cane so the small end would be toward the valve. I mated it via the short hose and hose clamps to the Phalse bottom. Insert it all into the cooler, feeding the cane out the tap hole. The short hose and rubber stopper make it flexible enough to work with. The stopper is slid as needed to center it when tight in the tap hole. The end result is that the Phalse Bottom can be lifted a bit to clean, but it no longer WANTS to float or stay up if bumped while stirring. The bit of internal hose is short enough to forget about heat collapse. The hard tube would even take a fair impact if I drop my paddle on it. I picked the extra length outside the cooler to avoid problems where my external hose would dettach from the short stub I used to use. This caused scrambling to reclamp and stop the precious flood. I can now dettach the hosing and valve when I want compact storage, since I have plenty of the cane to securely re-attach with hose clamp. In fact if I get a bit of seepage around the stopper I am confident enough to tug (gently) on that exterior hose-clamp. Mark Lubben Pepperell MA - about 20 minutes NW of the '98 NE regional NHC site Return to table of contents
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