HOMEBREW Digest #2937 Tue 26 January 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  cfu etc. (Jim Liddil)
  Re: sweetness source (Scott Murman)
  Rheingold Extra Dry---It's back! What's that hop? (ThomasM923)
  Bitburger "taste alike" recipe (Jeffrey McPike)
  re: brew stands (John_E_Schnupp)
  Re: Kegging without CO2 (Tim Anderson)
  New address for MCAB (LBonham)
  CO2 Kegging (Bill Tonkin)
  Re: Plastic bucket for boil vessel ("Chuck Mryglot")
  Re: Mashing corn meal before boiling ("Charles T. Major")
  1728 Barleywine; coffee stout ("Penn, John")
  Yet more about cereal cooking / Malt use outside of brewing ("George De Piro")
  that creamy Guinness head . . . ("Spies, Jay")
  Sanitizing Bottles (Ted McIrvine)
  FWH and Thin Beer (Ian Forbes)
  Dry Yeast... (Joe Rolfe)
  Paddle (Dave Hinrichs)
  Un-supported opinions (Tom Clark)
  low barleywine OG & new hops (Project One)
  re: fusels... (Lou.Heavner)
  Recipes wanted (Andrew Krein)
  threshold for newbies??? (VQuante)
  Beer Engines (Lee Menegoni)
  Use of Oxynator:  Is it necessary? (Bobpreed)
  boiling kettle false bottoms (Dan Sherman)
  Re: Gump Report (marnold)
  Corny Relief Valve ("Robert Phelan")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:13:16 +0000 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu> Subject: cfu etc. Now that we all know what a cfu is lets consider some details. For starters I might suggest that you go to: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/qna.html for a nice explanation of how to do microbiology testing. Now consider what is on the wyeast site: Purity Standards: Wild Yeast and Mold ; Negative in 10 ml suspension Bacteria ; < 1 cfu / ml Yeast Mutants; None detected There is no description of how the tesing is done and with what media. No methodology is described. I could claim low cfu levels in toliet water if I used highly acidic media with antibiotics. Are tests done anaerobically or aerobicaly? At what temperature and for how long are the samples incubated? When is testing done? Are samples taken from a btach culture or are packages sampled? If packages are sampled how many per lot are tested? Is the 10 ml sample a single sample or are multiple samples taken? since this thread originally started with a question about qa/qc standards of the various yeast producers I thought I'd give some food for thought. And does this purity standard apply to the 3278? :-) Jim Liddil www.liddil.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 16:25:54 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: sweetness source > >A high sacc. temp. also shouldn't contribute much sweetness, per se.Any > sugar in the wort will >be consumed by the yeast, unless somethingis very > wrong. > > what is the source of sweetness in beer? if the yeast consume all the > sugar, what makes the sweet beer styles sweet? I considered deleting that last paragraph (actually the whole post), because I wasn't sure myself what I meant, but then figured "what the heck, it'll start some discussion". Sweetness will definately be enhanced by caramel, or crystal malts, and alcohol is also sweet-tasting itself. I'm confused myself by the role of yeast strain. Some strains definately attenuate differently, but then the difference is residual sugar is measured at < 2%. Can a 0.5 or 1% measure of residual sugar be tasted? -SM- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 22:12:42 EST From: ThomasM923 at aol.com Subject: Rheingold Extra Dry---It's back! What's that hop? Don't worry, I'm not going to say that Rheingold is a delicious classic beer that everyone should love, because, well... it just isn't, and most won't. I remember it from many years back as being one of those brews that was clean tasting but with very little else going for it. I figured it was gone for good, when lo and behold I see a little poster in the liquor store stating: Rheingold Extra Dry---It's back! Well, I'm a sucker for a good come back, not to mention some nice retro-style packaging, so I bought a can. Not surprisingly, it still is a fairly lackluster brew, but I don't remember there being any hop character in the stuff from years ago. This stuff has a nice subtle hop flavor. Which brings me to my request... I hate asking someone to waste their taste buds on mediocre suds, but I really want to know what kind of hops Rheingold uses in the current reincarnation. I love that hop. I think it might be Tettanger, but I'm not sure. If anyone with a good taste for hops could try a can, and tell me what you think it is, I'd really appreciate it. Thomas Murray Maplewood, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 19:43:21 -0800 (PST) From: Jeffrey McPike <n9cqs at yahoo.com> Subject: Bitburger "taste alike" recipe Anybody have a recipe that tastes like Bitburger Pils? _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 19:49:01 -0800 From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com Subject: re: brew stands Thought I'd chime in my .02 worth. I've seen photos on various web pages of stands built using various materials, one of which was wood. Of course, the burner portion was not wood. I built my stand using a strut material (Super Strut). It is on the expensive side and I spent +$200 building the basic stand. I've since added to it so the cost continues to go up. I'm not keeping an accurate record of the cost as I buy/build parts as I need them. The nice thing about the stuff I used was that it bolted together. I cut it using a metal cutting blade on my chop saw. A hack saw or metal blade in a jig saw would work too. You can find angle/flat material at most building supply places. Another option is to use 1/2" or 3/4" pipe. Most places will cut to length and thread the ends. This requires a good plan and knowing all the lengths of pieces before you start. There are many ways to obtain a stand. I enjoy building stuff, so for me I knew I'd build my own. The material you use to construct a stand mainly depends upon the your tools and ability. If you lack the tools or skills to build, you may be able to find someone (friend or local business) who will help you. Buying a pre-built stand is an alternative as well. The one plus about designing your own stand is that it will be tailored for your needs. Why pay for a stand that won't suit your needs. For myself, I brew mostly 5 gallon batches (an occasional 10 gallon batch, my first this weekend) and I brew in my basement. My stand fits my brewing equipment, fits under my exhaust hood and meets my needs. A stand based on converted kegs would have been too large, in more ways than one, for my situation. There are many web sites out there which show how various people have put together their equipment/brewery. I took ideas from several places and built something to suit my situation. I built it myself, you might find it easier to have someone else built it for you or buy a pre-built system. John Schnupp, N3CNL Dirty Laundry Brewery Colchester, VT 95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 19:54:52 -0800 (PST) From: Tim Anderson <timator at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Kegging without CO2 Tim Evans asks about doing real ale at home: >>> Does anyone have experience with kegging beer and then dispensing it with a hand pump (like they do in certain English pubs), as opposed to using CO2 to dispense. I have not even progressing to kegging my beer yet but would like any information available about this process and whether it is feasible for us homebrewers. <<< You mean any English pub worth visiting. What you are referring to is cask conditioned ale, usually called real ale in England. It is, without question, the best way (CAMRA would say the only way) to serve good ale. It is the only way you'll find ale served in a decent pub. The problem for homebrewers is that air is introduced into the keg, causing oxidation in a very short time. In a pub, it is possible to turn the beer over fast enough that it's not a problem. Even for pubs, doing it well is no mean fete. I spent most of 1998 working in Hertford, UK. Hertford has a local brewery, McMullen, whose beer is served in all but a few of the pubs in town. Because you can get the same beer in so many pubs, it was possible to compare the cellarmanship of the various publicans. The difference in quality is stunning. Brewing is a craft. So is cellaring. I'll probably brew beer for the rest of my life, but I expect that I'll always charge my kegs with CO2, because I'm just not up to the challenge of real ale. By the way, if you ever find yourself in Hertford (pronounce it Hartford), find your way to the White Horse on Castle Street. Ask for a pint of whatever's the freshest. You won't be sorry. And say hello to Sean and Liz from Tim in Portland Oregon. And ask for a peek in the cellar. You won't be sorry about that either. tim == Please ignore the advertisement below. Thank you. _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 23:01:40 EST From: LBonham at aol.com Subject: New address for MCAB Hi folks: Please note: effective immediately, my new e-mail address is: lkbonham at hbd.org Please route all MCAB correspondence to this address. Additionally, if you have tried to send me e-mail since last Friday (Jan 22), please resend it to this new address. If you're planning to come to the MCAB and haven't made your hotel reservations at the conference hotel, don't delay , , , the hotel releases all unsold rooms in the MCAB block in the next few days, and we'd hate not to have cheap rooms available for anyone coming from out of town . . . . Regards -- Louis K. Bonham Organizer, Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 02:04:15 -0500 From: Bill Tonkin <billt at wcu.campus.mci.net> Subject: CO2 Kegging I have a coke style soda keg system, and i cannot get the beer to hold any kind of head, i did a 6 1/2 gal batch and bottled the other gallon and a half and they had a head, but the stuff in the keg had no head at all. I have read conflicting articles about not using any priming sugar and just feeding the keg 20-25lbs of co2 a day, and others that say to use a 1/2 cup of priming sugar and not to feed the beer any co2 until you want to dispense. I have only tried feeding the keg co2 and i did so for 4 days and no head. can you guys help me out? thanks bill Happiness is good health and a bad memory. - Ingrid Bergman (1917-1982) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:36:47 -0500 From: "Chuck Mryglot" <cmryglot at Progress.com> Subject: Re: Plastic bucket for boil vessel steve at globaldialog.com writes asking about plastic boiling vessels I've been using a plastic boiling vessel for about 5 years. There is a commercial one available with a 220 heating unit which used to cost about $100 I believe. I made my own with 2 110 heating elements. I bought the elements from a catalog (H & R something or other..I'll get the name if you're interested) for $2.95 each. I just plug each heater in and let it go. It takes about 30 min to come to boil. The first boiler I made lasted through about 75 batches and developed a crack from the hole where the heating element is installed. So, I retired another plastic fermenter and made a new boiler.... I've gone about another 50 batches with no signs of cracks. good luck chuckm Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:17:17 -0600 (Central Standard Time) From: "Charles T. Major" <ctmajor at samford.edu> Subject: Re: Mashing corn meal before boiling Alan McKay writes about mashing corn with a small portion of malt before cooking: This is a very good example of one of those things that big brewers do, that some homebrewer reads about, and naturally (but falsely) assumes that we should be doing it, too. Another added benefit of mashing the corn meal before boiling is that it reduces the amount of water necessary to cook the corn by converting those starches that are already released so that they don't thingken while boiling. This isn't always a concern on a homebrew scale, but for those like me who have a 5 gal mashtun, the volume of cooked cereal and mash can overwhelm the mashtun volume, which was my experience with my first CAP. regards, Tidmarsh Major Birmingham, ALabama Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:37:51 -0500 From: "Penn, John" <John.Penn at jhuapl.edu> Subject: 1728 Barleywine; coffee stout I made two 2.5 gallon batches of barleywine last June, both about 1.098 OG and about 1.020-1 FG 10% ABV! One batch used a 1/2 gallon starter of 1728 Scottish Ale yeast and the other used Nottingham dry yeast. True 1728 is very flocculant, but you can always shake the carboy to try and resuspend the yeast. I was happy with the attenuation. On the other hand, at bottling time 3 weeks or so later, I did not add additional yeast. The Batch using Nottingham dry yeast carbonated in a couple of months but the 1728 batch did not seem to carbonate. After 4 mos, I added a pinch of Nottingham yeast to each of the barleywines from the 1728 batch and they carbonated in another couple of months. So in my opinion 1728 is suitable for a barleywine but next time I would add a little extra yeast at bottling time and I would skip adding champagne yeast. A good starter of an appopriate ale yeast should be sufficient without resorting to champagne yeast. Just my opinions/data point. On the coffee stout, one data point. I added 1/4 # of coarsely ground coffee as I started to cool the wort. YOU DO NOT WANT TO BOIL COFFEE, as many have stated. The aroma at cooling time from the coffee was wonderful but disappated by bottling time. Another alternative would be to make some coffee with 1/4 pound or so and add it after fermentation starts to slow so that the aroma doesn't get scrubbed as much. John Penn Eldersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 9:50 -0800 From: "George De Piro" <George_De_Piro at berlex.com> Subject: Yet more about cereal cooking / Malt use outside of brewing Hi all, Alan M. writes, regarding the apparent uselessness of adding malt to a cereal cooker along with the adjunct: "I know that some folks are still going to adhere to these old wives tales, but at least I hope that for others this will dispel the myth once and for all." Back to me: While my first post on the subject (HBD 2936) agrees with Alan's conclusion that it is not necessary to add diastatic malt to a cereal cooker in a very small brewery, I wouldn't go as far as saying that it is a "wive's tale" and won't make a difference in the final beer. 1. Scorching: Maybe I'm particularly spastic, but I have a pretty easy time scorching something as thick as a pot of moist corn grits when trying to boil it for 20 minutes. I don't enjoy having to stand at the stove and stir the pot constantly. Adding diastatic malt to the cereal mash and resting it briefly at saccharification temperature before boiling reduces the viscosity *tremendously.* 2. Flavor: As Jeff Renner points out, by adding the malt and saccharifying some of the starch prior to the boil you will be creating Maillard precursors. The amino acids and sugars will form tasty melanoidins during the cereal boil. The effect may be small, but it will have an impact on the beer's character. I have cooked cereal adjuncts with and without the added malt. The cereal mashes with added malt become noticeably darker and richer smelling/tasting than those without malt. This may not be desirable if you are trying to make a beer that's lighter in color and flavor than Coor light, but I find it nice in a Classic American Pils. Of note: if you do scorch your cereal mash (or decoction), you can salvage the batch without completely wrecking the flavor: do NOT scrape the goo off the bottom of the pot! Don't even come close to scraping it off. This way, the stuff that tastes much like an ashtray will not be introduced to the wort. I think it was Julia Child who wrote that you should dunk the pot in cold water before transferring the food above the scorched stuff. I have no idea if that really helps or not. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Tom asks about the use malt outside of the brewing industry. According to the folks at Briess, the bulk of their sales are not to the brewing industry (personal conversation I had with some of the folks there last year). Malt extract is used in the making of many foods (from those awful textured soy protein hamburger substitutes to baked goods and ice cream, etc.). If it wasn't for the food industry's need for malt extract, I daresay none of us would have ever brewed a batch of beer from extract! There are far too few homebrewers to make it profitable to make malt extract. I don't recall all of the details of the forms of malt that are sold to the food industry, but it is quite substantial. Have fun! George de Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:03:29 -0500 From: "Spies, Jay" <Spies at dhcd.state.md.us> Subject: that creamy Guinness head . . . All - There has been some discussion on and off recently regarding "Guinness gas" and ways to get a creamy head on your beer, which dinged a bell in my addled brain to ask a question that has been lurking amongst the cobwebs . . . Contemplating the impending purchase of a chest freezer and the attendant tap hardware, I remember stumbling across a faucet head assembly in William's Brewing (no affiliation . . .) called a "creamer faucet" that has an extra position on the handle that basically "whips" ambient room air into the faucet, thus theoretically giving the beer going into the glass that creamy Guinness-like head. I think it was "pull forward to dispense, push back to stop, push back real far to 'cream'" (insert bad imagery here). Has anyone bought one of these things? Do they work, or is it yet another shining example of marketing hype? I would think that it's sort of an expensive version of the much-lauded HBD "pocket beer engine", but I could be wrong. I shudder at intentionally introducing that much oxygen into the finished beer, but as far as oxidation goes, it seems like it wouldn't be in your glass long enough to make a difference (at least not in my glass) . . . Thoughts?? Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:12:52 -0800 From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Sanitizing Bottles I'm skeptical about Charlie Papazian's advice about rinsing with hot water which was repeated in HBD #2936. Won't rinsing with hot water impart impurities from the hot water heater? (Greg Noonan suggests cold rinses on p. 212 in "Brewing lager beer") Ted McIrvine McIrvine at Ix.Netcom.Com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:49:00 -0500 From: Ian_Forbes at AICI.COM (Ian Forbes) Subject: FWH and Thin Beer Here are two questions for the collective. First, I am planning on brewing this weekend and I wanted to try my hand at First Wort Hopping. After searching the archives, I'm still not sure I have the answer to my question. When FWHing, do you take the hops out of the wort before the boil, or do you leave them in for the entire boil? (easy question huh?) Next, I just had the first taste of my first all-grain, in the bottle only a week but I couldn't wait, and OH- - -MY- - -GOD was it awesome! -IMHO- (I have previously posted the recipe and details regarding this particular brew at http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/2920.html#2920-14). The porter is crystal clear, even when chilled, (never had that with an extract beer) and the color, while very dark, when held up to a light is brown with beautiful red tones. On to the question...For the purposes of this discussion I will give you two details (my guess at the important ones but check out the complete details if you wish). First detail is that the mash was at about 154 f and lasted almost two hours. The second is that this was a semi botched no-sparge attempt. The first runnings were collected and then water added to finish at post boil volume of 5 gallons. ( In my original post I believe that I stated 1 1/2 to 2 gallons first runnings at SG 1.095. I believe that 2 1/2 to 3 gallons would be more accurate). I failed to measure the OG. FG was 1.011. And finally to the question; the only flaw that I noticed was that this porter seemed to be on the thin side. That is, it did not have a lot of mouthfeel. The flavor seems to be fine, i.e. not weak in any way. I just feel that the consistency is thin, like there is not a lot _there_ (bad description, but it's hard to put into words). Does anyone have any observations/suggestions as to what might have caused this? If the description is too vague, email me and I will try to do better. As always, thanks for the help! Ian Hamden, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:11:15 -0500 From: Joe Rolfe <rolfe at sky.sky.com> Subject: Dry Yeast... I said.... >>Dry Yeasts - there are places here and in Europe that provide >>excellent quality dry yeast to commercial brewers and if a >>homebrewer want to fork over $200 to $400 for it. Rob Moline said... >As a commercial brewer that has used the Lallemand product for many years, >in two successful brewpubs, I will refute the 200-400 $ tag.... >Commercial brewers in the US currently pay much less than that for their >dry yeast........... I did not say they were paying that much, I merely said they have it available at similar quality to that of slants. That the technology of providing quality dry yeast seems to have come along way since 1990. I too, in a commercial operation, used Lallemand - amoungst others. Again I have not brewed with any of those for many years and I assume alot of the issues with the dry yeasts of the past have been solved. At that time it was easier but the flavors where well less than those of quality pure strains. (totally baseless data point there - no hard facts to back it up - just the brewers and informal taste panel taste buds) One thing wont change tho, a brewpub and a micro are very different in respect to products. Pubs have a captive crowd. Micros must stand alone amidst the other micros on the shelf/tap. The bottom line is flavor profile. And as we all know the yeast is a major contributor. (another baseless data point??). In general I still dont see and did not see many commercial packaging breweries using dry yeast (no matter whose it was). One way to stand out is to find a very unique yeast, that, not many - if any, of breweries in the area are using. Picking it is quite a difficult process and if your buying them at $100-$400 a pop, expensive. The dry yeast lab I was refering to is Alfred Jorgensons (spelling may be way off...). At the time I looked into them they had several dozen extremely pure dry yeast - again you only get a small vial. You only buy it once. The Lallemand/Whitbread dry yeasts I had access to did not come with purity certificates nor where they very stable (stable = each batch of yeast produced the same flavor profile in the final product and you really did not want to repitch very many times before using a new brick). Dry yeast is very easy for the pubs, no lengthy build up, limits the amount of lab work, cheap in price and reasonable in flavor. Good/well funded micros - have alot of hardware and manpower invested in yeast management. The expense incurred by investing inhouse yeast management over the long term is cheaper than continually buying dry yeast. (baseless to the point that when someone sits down and does the math - it will be come clear). A micro will live or die by its yeast, a brewpub is a restaurant first - it will live or die by its food/service. (this is not a baseless fact - but alas I have no refs...) Having a world class dry yeast available may be one of the greatest steps forward in recent years. (yet another baseless datapoint). I know I will more than likely (one way or another) obtain Lallemands new dry yeasts - if in fact this does make it to market. I give Lallemand large congrats - if they can pull it off. Good Luck and Great Brewing Joe Rolfe Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:26:30 -0500 From: Dave Hinrichs <dhinrichs at quannon.com> Subject: Paddle I got a new wodden paddle for mash stirring and such. My question is should I coat the paddle or leave it bare wood. Any thoughts, comments, and coating suggestions welcome. Just a few fittings to tighten till the new SS mash/lauter tun is ready. *************************************************************** * Dave Hinrichs E-Mail: dhinrichs at quannon.com * * Quannon CAD Systems, Inc. Voice: (612) 935-3367 * * 6101 Baker Road, Suite 204 FAX: (612) 935-0409 * * Minnetonka, MN 55345 * * http://www.quannon.com/ * *************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:43:40 -0500 From: Tom Clark <rtclark at eurekanet.com> Subject: Un-supported opinions When Gallileo expressed his opinion that the earth was round and that the earth rotated around the sun, he had few references to support his ideas. He was severely chastised for suggesting a thought that was so contrary to the teachings of his day. As a matter of fact, he was banned from teaching this theory for the rest of his life. Although there were some before him who believed the same to be true, many of his ideas were born out of logic rather than regurgitating someone else's thoughts learned from a book. I support the idea that suggestions should be supported with references whenever possible, but I would hate to see a good thought or suggestion suppressed simply because no reference was readilly available. Tom Clark Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:53:09 -0800 From: Project One <project1 at pond.net> Subject: low barleywine OG & new hops Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who took the time to reply to my problem (Rod P, I tried replying twice, but it bounced back). The two main suggestions I got were a bad hydrometer (we checked, seems OK) or not mixing well enough after we topped it off. This looks to be the most likely thing, because ya gotta trust physics, right?? If we put all that stuff in, it didn't vanish (I hope). Anyway, thanks again. BTW, we used a hop called Magnum for this one that is a high alpha, very smooth (supposedly) hop. Our HB shop guy says that it's a new variety and Sierra Nevada just made it their standard bittering hop. Initial tests on a couple of other batches look like this is gonna be a great hop. I'd recommend that you try them if you can find them. ------------------->Denny Conn Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:16:28 -0600 From: Lou.Heavner at frco.com Subject: re: fusels... From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at isunet.net> {snip stuff on another topic... } >From: "Kelly" <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> >Subject: A newbie question please... >Could someone tell me what Fusel alcohols are...why they are bad, what the >taste is like (so I can know how to detect), and how to prevent them? Fusels are produced in every fermentation....but you don't notice them in most beers, unless they are high gravity, where the effect of having more of everything makes them stand out... Respiratory Deficient Mutant yeasts are fond of making them......don't worry about them yet......I doubt that you need to.... But, for what it is worth to me, don't worry about fusels unless you are brewing at a high gravity.....and then remember that they will dissipate in time.... That is why a strong ale or barleywine worth it's mettle will taste 'sharp and angular' until at least 6 months of conditioning has occurred. That 'sharp' taste is from fusels.......they go away with time...... I've heard this before and certainly longer conditioning does have a mellowing affect on high gravity beers. I am curious as to how this actually occcurs. Anybody know or care to speculate? Do the yeast consume the fusels? Are other metabolic byproducts or enzymes reactive with them. Are they oxidized? In general, alcohols are natural solvents and fairly stable, or so I thought. They are less volatile than ethanol but more volatile than water as indicated by the fact that they create problems by accumulating in continuous distillation columns that separate ethanol and water. I assumed that if you had enough fusels in your beer to taste, that you were pretty much stuck with them. But that is really just a wag which was neither theoretically nor empirically derived. Cheers! Lou Heavner - Austin, TX (the home, I'm told by partisan sources, of the next president of the U.S.) Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Jan 1999 14:53:12 -0500 From: Andrew Krein <Andrew.Krein at noaa.gov> Subject: Recipes wanted I'm an extract brewer and I'd like to find recipes for barley wine and imperial stout. Could someone please forward me some info on where I can find extract recipes for these? Does anyone out there have a successful recipe? Thanks Andy Krein Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 15:34:59 EST From: VQuante at aol.com Subject: threshold for newbies??? In hbd #2936 "Rod Prather" <rodpr at iquest.net> wrote: > I suggest that the Janitors insert a little blurb in the welcome > letter explaining the level of expertise in the group and the fact > that the letter is archived. Something to the respect that all > questions are welcome but that one should lurk for a while before > offering advice on the HBD to get a feeling for the mood of the group. > There is currently no advice like this in the welcome letter. Thank God, it isn't. What, if all these "experts" offered only perfect advise - what about the simple questions, newbies in brewing have? Not all "experts" are willing to share their experiences, not all are able to express it in a way the newbie understands. And what about those, who will give new ideas, new input in a non common way! In my opinion that gives hbd a fresh flavour, stimulation, reason for new discussions on newbie level as well as on expert level. Don't want to bother you and to waste bandwidth, but: Keep the hbd open without any thresholds, without means of deterrence, or you will lose the variability of these valuable sorce sooner or later. Volker Volker R. Quante Brunnenbraeu Homebrewery Brewing and working in Warsaw / Poland, but definitely a German Homebrewer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:54:28 -0500 From: Lee Menegoni <Lee.Menegoni at digital.com> Subject: Beer Engines A few years agosome folks I know made a group purchase of beer engines from the UK and got them for about $200 each. One cool way to use them is to dispense beer from growlers or gallon jugs. Set up the engine, place the source tube in the growler/jug and pump the beer. This way you don't have to worry about oxidation or wasting a lot of beer. Always a hit at meetings or parties. Lee Menegoni Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:54:06 EST From: Bobpreed at aol.com Subject: Use of Oxynator: Is it necessary? In order to add oxygen to the wort before primary fermentation occurs, I have been using the simple method of capping the carboy and shaking the heck out of it for a few minutes. For long lager brewing, would this method be sufficient, or would using a tool like the Oxynator be necessary to supply the wort with the necessary oxygen? Has anyone used this product and, if so, where they happy with the results? Thanks all. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:53:23 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Sherman <dsherman at biomail.ucsd.edu> Subject: boiling kettle false bottoms Thanks to Doug Moyer for posting a great summary about screens for a lauter tun or boiling kettle. I have a somewhat related question. For use in a converted-keg boiling kettle, I've been looking at the false bottoms sold via www.pbsbeer.com and www.beeronline.com (no affiliation, etc.) that fit very close to the bottom of the keg & use a siphon tube to theoretically allow collection of almost all of the wort. For those of you who use or have used a false bottom in your boiling kettle to prevent trub & hops from clogging the drain, how well do they work? What are the details of your false bottom (commercial, home-made, etc.)? Do you use whole or pellet hops? Irish Moss? Immersion or counterflow chiller? Any problems with scorching under the false bottom? Excessive caramelization of the wort? I'll post a summary. Thanks! Dan Sherman dsherman at ucsd.edu San Diego, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 99 04:09:22 +0000 From: marnold at ez-net.com Subject: Re: Gump Report >"A Study of the oldest bible texts, written in Aramaic, suggest that Jesus turned water into beer, not wine, during the wedding feast in Canaan, the Global Beer Network newsletter has reported. Far be it from me to question the credibility of such noted theological journals as the "Global Beer Network Newsletter," but I'm afraid I must respectfully disagree. First of all, the New Testament was originally written in Greek, not Aramaic (there are brief portions of the Old Testament that are in Aramaic, the vast majority is Hebrew). Any Aramaic New Testament texts would be in translation and thus less reliable than the original. BTW, the wedding, while in Canaan, more specifically was at Cana. >"In later translations of the Bible, centuries after the fact, beer was replaced by wine" This is just plain wrong. I'll save you the drawn out text study. >GBN observes. "Wine was considered a drink for the happy few that could afford it...(even then) wine marketers were already succeeding in giving wine a more upscale image." This is revisionist history. While I cannot comment on the availability of beer to the masses in ~30 A.D. Israel, I do know that wine was a common drink, not the sole property of the well-to-do by any means. >According to GBN, noted beer author Michael Jackson also subscribes to the theory. Perhaps Michael should stick to writing about beer . . . >"Jesus was a hero of the common people," the GBN newsletter notes, "fighting the establishment. Why wouldn't he drink what everyone else was drinking, which was beer? When you think about it, it is very possible that the drink at the Last Supper was also Beer." Ahh, what a slippery slope bad logic is! The concept of beer at the Last Supper is the product of fanciful imagination, not on any biblical basis. It makes a nice story, but that's about it. Don't get me wrong--I like beer as much as the average person (perhaps even more!), but this is just silliness. Just when I thought I could go on vacation . . . Matt (the Rev.), posting in the Twin Cities, even farther away from Jeff Renner than usual. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:43:31 PST From: "Robert Phelan" <rephelan at excite.com> Subject: Corny Relief Valve Just a quick question to all, what is the ideal relief valve presure on a corny keg? I have several defective such valves and was wondering if they could be used for closed fermenting or is the pressure at 2-3 lbs too high for that? Just a thought, not suggesting that anyone notch they their seals. >From 21 miles east of the continental divide, Bread, Toast, Whatever, Robert _______________________________________________________ Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/ Return to table of contents
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