HOMEBREW Digest #3058 Wed 16 June 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Update on stealth fermentation (Jeff Porterfield)
  RE: Heather ale ("Campbell, Paul SSI-TSEA-A")
  CP Fillers / Keeping Cool / Water Treatment (Ken Schwartz)
  jason's water ("Bayer, Mark A")
  Summer brewing (Nathan Kanous)
  Three Dogs Lemonade - 1999 Attempt (Al Czajkowski DBA)
  re: Beer Prices in Germany ("Alan McKay")
  Reminder: New lists, new function (Pat Babcock)
  Re: white sugar (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Heather ale (Jeff Renner)
  Rice and ale yeast in CAP (Jeff Renner)
  Membership Drive for IL HomeBrew Club (Scott Abene)
  Italian Birra (Mark Garthwaite)
  Walk in Fridge construction (Scott Abene)
  Wort pH (Dave Burley)
  Re: brewsacks ("Dana H. Edgell")
  kraeusening (Randy Ricchi)
  Re: Brew Sack (Steven_Johnson)
  moretti la rossa ("Hull, Ted")
  Re: 2nd All Grain, Comments please? (Spencer W Thomas)
  RE: good head on brew ("Nigel Porter")
  2nd All Grain, Comments please? (notes) (Badger Roullett)
  Alcohol Insurance (Laurence Hand)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 07:03:09 +0000 From: Jeff Porterfield <jporterf at erols.com> Subject: Update on stealth fermentation No questions this time, just an update. First of all, many thanks to all who responded to my query about my wheat beer's apparent overnight fermentation. We racked it to the secondary Sunday night and it tasted fine. Gravity was 1.011. Apparently the little yeasties ate up everything while I wasn't looking. I should be used to it. The kids do it to the fridge all the time <grin>. The HBD is a tremendous resource and I'm glad all of you are here. Thanks again, everyone! Jeff Porterfield Lasting Light Brewery Columbia, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 13:42:45 +0200 From: "Campbell, Paul SSI-TSEA-A" <Paul.R.Campbell at IS.shell.com> Subject: RE: Heather ale In HBD#3057 Eric Fouch did quote.... "...The Picts, an early dwarvish people indigenous to the Britain and the Scottish Highlands, the Pictish brewmasters would die rather than devulge their recipes." Hey, I'm not sure about the "dwarvish bit".... although my great grandmother was rather short.... ;> AFAIK the Picts were the Scottish indigenous population at the time of the Roman invasion (Hadrian built his wall to keep them out of England). The name Britain seems to just cause confusion in my opinion. Roman Britain consisted of England and Wales at the time, with Scotland becoming part much later (and after much fighting and treachery). Back on topic..... I noticed a pack of traditional old ales at my local beer shop (store). I think one of the beers was a heather ale so I'll go back and take a look - to make up for my selfish ancestors 8^> These packs usually have at least a bit of history etc. on them somewhere - there may be some useful info Hal can use. Regards, Paul Campbell "Still trying to perfect my Fuller's London Pride and ESB clones" Aberdeen, Scotland, UK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 06:12:16 -0600 From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob at elp.rr.com> Subject: CP Fillers / Keeping Cool / Water Treatment There were several requests for info in HBD 3054 that I might be able to offer help with. On the sig line of this post is my brewing web page address, info on these topics can be found there. 1) Counter-Pressure Bottling: I have a sketch of a simple (and inexpensive) home-made CP bottle filler. This was featured in the Spring 1997 issue of Zymurgy. One suggestion/simplification: eliminate the copper fill tube and simply run a longer piece of vinyl tubing through the stopper to double as the fill tube. 2) If you need to keep your fermenting beer cool this summer, you might want to take a look at the Fermentation Chiller on my web page. It's an improvement on the insulated box + ice approach, using a thermostat & fan to control the temperature rather precisely. 3) For info on water treatment, including a free program to help with treatment formulations, check out BreWater 3.0 on my web page. This software was reviewed in Brewing Techniques July/August 1998. - -- ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX Brewing Web Page: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer E-mail: kenbob at elp.rr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 05:44:37 -0700 From: "Bayer, Mark A" <Mark.Bayer at JSF.Boeing.com> Subject: jason's water collective homebrew conscience_ jason wrote, regarding his water: >You will all forgive me. The one part of homebrewing that totally confuses >and befuddles me is the science of water chemistry.<snip>, it now seems I >have not enough of certain minerals. >Here is the analysis: >alkalinity 127 mg/L >chloride 1.03 mg/L >sulfate 10.09 mg/L >hardness (as CaC03) 110 mg/L >calcium 25.7 mg/L >magnesium 11 mg/L >potassium 0.58 mg/L >sodium 1.55 mg/L >pH 8.5 >total dissolved solids 150 mg/L i don't see any numbers that are low/high enough to cause serious problems. you've got reasonable calcium, low sodium and sulfate, medium alkalinity. this looks like water with no intractable problems. you should be able to do just about anything with it, if you're willing to dilute it and add minerals. >I do realize that different styles need different water composition, but I >also know that the composition changes revolve mainly around a few main >elements.>My question is this: what should I do to bring levels UP to the >appropriate place. Which additives do what? I realize this is a bit of a broad >question,but as I said, water chemistry gets my head spinning. there are two main ideas here. one is, what are the minerals that are associated with classic beer styles; and secondly, what sorts of grain bills will work with your water, and what sorts of mineral additions might you need. incidentally, the first issue is a result of the second. when i say "what will work", i'm referring to optimal mash ph which supports starch conversion. this is very limited, because i am far from being an expert. but i know what has worked for me in the past. some traditional mineral/style associations: sulfate: associated with burton style ales. michael jackson has written that sulfate plus hops yields a "dry edge" in the finished beer. add gypsum to boost. do not add gypsum if you are considering a highly-hopped lager (pilsner). or, go ahead. see what you think. it's just not usually recommended. bicarbonate: associated with dark brews, like porter and stout. reason? bicarbonate raises mash ph while dark roasted malt lowers it. when you have the right balance, you get a workable mash ph. chloride: associated with various styles (london porter & brown ale, for example); reputed to enhance sweetness; i've never sought to determine this. the combination with sodium is a familiar compound (table salt). soft water: associated with the pilsner style. plzen water is very soft. that's all i'll write about tradition (there is much more), now for the mash ph issue: your water looks like it can be used for just about anything. it looks very much like my water with the sulfate and sodium reduced (which is a good thing, btw). some argue in favor of having at least 50 ppm calcium, but my personal experience is that it's not necessary to brew good beer. i am sure dr. pivo could give you some references in bohemia to ask about that topic as well. no matter what you believe now, keep good notes and see what works for you. to summarize the ph effects of "the big 3" mineral additives: gypsum (calcium sulfate): lowers mash ph calcium chloride: lowers mash ph calcium carbonate: raises mash ph dark roasted malts will lower your mash ph - use calcium carbonate if necessary to raise it back up (if you can get an accurate ph reading - with ph strips it is tough). very pale grain bills might mash in a little on the high side, so use dilution and/or gypsum or calcium chloride to lower ph. as for when to add the minerals, add them after you've mashed in, stirred very well, and checked the ph. after you've added them, check it again. also, it's good to check at the very end of your mash to see if it has drifted lower during the mash. i've noticed that this happens in my own mashes, particularly with higher kilned/roasted malts. what mash ph are you shooting for? in general, a room temperature reading of 5.4 to 5.8 will work great. don't panic if you're not exactly in this range, but try to get close. it's a compromise value to optimize the different enzymes working in the mash. you should be able to find a plethora of further information by searching the archives and using aj delange's name (or, "numquam") along with keyword(s) of interest. brew hard (or alkaline, whatever), mark bayer stlmo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 07:46:23 -0500 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Summer brewing Lou Heavner makes some suggestions for "summertime" brewing. I think that one of the keys is sanitation as Lou mentions....be anal about this. As I understand, most folks that don't brew in the summer don't because of wild yeasts and bacteria. If you do want to try warm weather brewing, I can think of one "special" circumstance (yeast) that may be well suited. Brewery Ommegang reports to ferment their beers at around 78 degF. If you can keep things properly sanitary (as Lou mentions) you might be able to produce some nice belgian brews if you can manage to get a hold of a sample of their yeast and can't keep your fermentations "cool" enough. Can't be that hard for those of us looking in the bottom of our bottles. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 09:02:52 -0700 From: Al Czajkowski DBA <aczajkow at ford.com> Subject: Three Dogs Lemonade - 1999 Attempt I'm getting ready for the 1999 batch of "Adults Only Lemonade". The 1998 vintage was good, but I thought a bit astringent. Changes this year will be to not dump the entire rind into the cooking pot, but rather just some of the zest and scoop out the pulp. Last years batch was also way to dry for my taste. Hence my question to the collective. Any recommendations on what to use for a sweeter finish? Last year I resorted to adding a packet of saccharin to each pint at serving time. The problem with that was a marked reduction in carbonation. I could add the saccharin when I keg, but am looking for a more "natural" method. If anyone wants my version of the recipe, drop me a note. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 08:49:20 -0400 From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at nortelnetworks.com> Subject: re: Beer Prices in Germany Can't speak for anywhere else, but I can tell you quite a lot about Germany. If you need some tips on where to go drinking, just Email me. Prices are very cheap. In fact, when I left there in 94 the government was about to pass a law which would require all restaurants and other similar establishments to offer drinks that were cheaper than beer. They were worried about drunk driving because almost anywhere you went beer was cheaper than soda pop or even water (they only server mineral water, no tap water). At the time you could buy 500ml bottles of beer at the local corner store for about 1 DM (80 cents CDN at the time). In the grocery store you could get cheaper beers for as little as 50 Pfennig per can (330ml) or sometimes even cheaper. I remember one grocery store I used to pass by in the mornings on the way to work which was right beside a park where the winos used to hang out. They'd all be lined up at the store in the morning waiting for it to open so they could go buy their "breakfast". I seem to recall beer at that store was a really dirt-cheap price of about 30 Pfennig a can or something like that. cheers, -Alan - -- Alan McKay OS Support amckay at nortelnetworks.com Small Site Integration 613-765-6843 (ESN 395) Nortel Networks Internal : http://zftzb00d/alanmckay/ External : http://www.bodensatz.com/ All opinions expressed are my own. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 10:20:00 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at mail.oeonline.com> Subject: Reminder: New lists, new function Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... At the behest of those salivating over enlightening conversations surrounding their favorite subjects, I anm reminding all y'all of the two new lists served by the HBD server: The Home Vintners' Digest: for discussions pertaining to home wine-making, wine appreciation, and all things wine... Request address: hvd-request@hbd.org Posting address: hvd at hbd.org The Distilled Beverage Digest: for the discussion of distilled spirits, appreciation of same and (non-US) home production Request address: dbd-request@hbd.org Posting address: dbd at hbd.org These are unmoderated lists; however, posting is limited only to those subscribed to the list, and subscriptions are monitored. To subscribe, send the word subscribe in the body of a note to the applicable request address. For more available commands, send the word help in the body of an e-mail list to either request address. *************************************** A new function has been added to the "moderation" routine on the Home Brew Digest. This function generates a note to the poster asking them to reconsider the tone or content of their posting should the Janitors find it particularly uncivil or offensive in its content. The function does not cancel the poster's submission. That is left to the poster to do if they determine whether or not their post meets their intent and/or presents an image of themselves they wish publicly displayed. No response to the Janitors is required (again: it is up to you and your own sensibilities. We are not interested in the reasoning behind the post, etc. - only to point out that it may not read as the poster had intended). This function was precipitated by the particularly hostile tone of the Digest in recent months and as a "happy medium" between total tolerance and zero tolerance. Note that blatantly obscene, commercial or notes that threaten physical violence against another will continue to be rejected by the Janitors when/if caught in the queue. - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 09:40:36 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: white sugar In HBD 3054, "Nigel Porter" <nigel at sparger.freeserve.co.uk> wrote >on a recent >visit to the King & Barnes brewery, the brewer said that they don't >use sugar as it is too expensive - malt is a more cost effective >option. K&B is unusual among old British brewers in that, according to _The Real Ale Almanac_, all but one of their beers do not use sugar. However, they do use invert sugar in their "Broadwood" (1.040) . They use flaked maize in their mild and ordinary bitter (both 1.034), as well as the 1.050 "Festive." It sounds as if this is their "lightener" of choice. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 09:48:20 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Heather ale Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com (with Fred strangely absent, but then he's always strange) answers hal's (hwarrick at springnet1.com) question >Does any one have a recipe for a " Heather Ale "? with: >The following is a excerpt form Stephen Buhner's _Sacred and Healing Herbal >Beers_, reproduced here without permission: >Bruce Williams produces a commercial heather brew, and this is his recipe for >a homebrewed heather ale: >6# US 2 row barley >10.5 oz amber malt (crystal?) >12.75 cups lightly pressed heather tops (flowers?) >3/10 oz Irish moss >5 gallons water Amber malt is not crystal, but a more highly kilned regular malt. I think Victory or biscuit might substitute, but British amber malt is available in the US. I note that this is an unhopped ale. The only heather ale I have tried, Fraoch Heather Ale from Scotland and imported here, contains, according to _The Real Ale Almanac_, "Scotch pale ale malt, wheat (5%), caramalt(3%), flowering heather, root ginger, sweet gale. 19 units of color [note, EBC, ~9L]. Brewers Gold whole hops. 22-24 units of bitterness." Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 10:52:23 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Rice and ale yeast in CAP Brewers I am pleased to have become the Classic American Pilsner (CAP) guru on HBD. It makes me feel useful, and besides, I get so many samples sent to me for comment that I may soon be able to stop brewing! The two most common CAP questions that I am unable to answer from personal experience are qabout the use of rice instead of corn and if there is a way to make a "pseudo-pilsner" with ale yeast. I have in one brew atempted to investigate both questions. I suppose it will be a CACA (Classic American Cream Ale). OG 1.047, FWH and finished with Ultra and bittered with Cluster to ~25 IBU, and fermented with Nottingham. First, the rice question. I used 22% short grain white rice with the balance 6-row. _The Practical Brewer_ (1977 edition) states on p. 48, "Long grained rice is seldom used in brewing because of gelatinization and viscosity problems in the cooker." I ground it in a Corona mill on a tight setting resulting in coarse grits with a small amount of flour. I proceded as I do with corn meal/grits - mashed 3 lbs. rice with 1 lb. crushed malt and 4 qts. of treated water at 153F for 20-30 minutes, then boiled it 15 minutes, less time than corn. Again, PB, "p. 50, "Rice, properly ground to a uniform small granule size, need not be boiled too long, for it has been established that if the starch of rice is overboiled, the lautering time might be lengthened, whereas a firm 'center' of the granule affords less doughy effects on the filtering media of the lauter. Generally, fifteen minutes boiling time should suffice, depending on the granule size." The cereal mash before boiling was settled under the excess water, but on boiling it "fluffed" (the rem used in PB). That is, it rose up in the cooker, resulting in wuite a nice fluffy mass. I got some caramelization on the bottom of the pan which I did not transfer to the main mash. All in all, I encountered no problems whatsoever with the rice. Lautering was uneventful. It was perhaps a little easier than corn, but that is perhaps because I don't have access to brewers grits, only a fairly coarse corn meal. I used powdered Irish moss (2 tsp/8 gal) and got fairly good break, but then wasn't paying attention to the pumping from the boiler to the fermenter and a fair amount of settled break made it into the fermenter. This morning, there were great big clots of break material hovering near the surface on the slight CO2 bubbling. I tried to strain them out, but found that they were not solid enough. I'm sure they will settle. Yeast - I've been wanting to try Nottingham, and it's reputation for neutrality seemed to make it a good candidate for a "pseudo-lager," even though I had a pale ale at last week's AABG meeting with a fair amount of berry like fruitiness. I hydrated 4 packets (exp. 11/01, from MCAB conference in Houston)(20 grams) in 8 oz. water at 109F for 15 minutes per instructions, at which point there was some foaminess, then added 8 oz. 70F wort for 15 minutes, then put in the fermenter and began pumping in the wort at 62F. Pitched at 5PM, ambient temp 64F, stings of very fine bubbles at qo PM, some foam along with buoyant "tofu" clumps of break material at 8AM today, thin layer of foam and bread material at 10 AM. Not a slow start as far as I am concerned. While I expect the final flavor with the rice to be more light than with my usual corn, whose subtle sweetness and flavor I greatly like, and as an ale, to be more fruity than my beloved CAP, I hope this will be a good summer beer. I may use Polyclar to avoid chill haze since I won't be lagering. I'll report on the results. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 07:53:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Abene <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: Membership Drive for IL HomeBrew Club Attention Club Wort of Palatine, IL is currently soliciting new members and beer lovers. Wanted! Novice Beer & Mead brewers Intermediate Beer & Mead brewers Advanced Beer & Mead brewers Beer lovers of all levels Brewers of all levels All grainers Extracters Partial brewers 1st time brewers Club Wort has been a driving force in the Chicago/Western Suburbs home brewing scene for the last 7 years. If you have ever thought of participating in a fantastic club this could be your chance to enjoy the company of some of the finest brewers in the Chicago area. If you are interested, contact the Club Wort president (Jon Culli) via email at jonlinda at interaccess.com Thanks For your time. C'ya! -Scott === ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT Scott Abene <skotrat at mediaone.net> http://skotrat.dynip.com/skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) "This Space Currently for Rent... Inquire within" _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 09:55:30 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Garthwaite <mgarth at primate.wisc.edu> Subject: Italian Birra There are several beers brewed in Italy aside from Morretti and Peroni. A good place to check out what's brewing in Italy is: http://www.split.it/users/rosamax/ita/guide.htm On a recent trip to Italy I'd hoped to seek out some of the smaller operations but they're hard to get to. Another day perhaps. Mark Garthwaite Madison, WI *If you haven't got your ticket to The Great Taste of the Midwest, what are you waiting for??? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 08:02:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Abene <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: Walk in Fridge construction Hey all, I am about to start construction on my walk in cooler in my basement and would like to feel the waters for design tips and ideas from those of you that have tried to and have succeeded at this endeavor. I am planning on doing at least a 6' x 9' x 7' cooler with the compressor living outside my house. Has anyone done something similar? Do's? Don'ts? Any help would be greatly appreciated. C'ya! Scott "hmmm I wonder if they make Plaid drywall?" Abene === ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT Scott Abene <skotrat at mediaone.net> http://skotrat.dynip.com/skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) "The More I know about beer politics, The more I wish I made 120k" _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 11:13:15 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Wort pH Brewsters: Rick Pauly asks if the pH of cooled wort should be 4.2 or 5.2 and if this will affect his hop efficiency. The wort pH should be in the range of 5.2. During fermentation the pH drops to the region of 4.2, which may be the source of confusion. pH does affect hop extraction efficiency as the active hop bittering agents are acids and the higher pH increases the solubility of the hop acids, bringing them into solution where they are isomerized. Getting a wort pH too high is dangerous as the higher the pH the more likely you will suffer from oxidation of the barley and hop tannins which will produce an undesirable taste and darken the wort. The best pH before the boil should be on the order of 5.4 to 5.5 at room temperature which will become 5.2 at the boiling point. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 09:54:57 -0700 From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell at cari.net> Subject: Re: brewsacks Kurt Kiewel asks about brewsacks, I have had some experience with these. I once mailed two to a friend who was stuck in a small research camp in Antartica for 4 months, and my wife recently found one for $2 in a grocery store discount bin. For all of them I beefed up the recipe with additional dry malt extract, crystal malt and extra hops. I was told the Antacrtic beer tasted good (and made my friend the hero of the camp) but given the situation (stuck in the middle of freezing nowhere with no beer whatsoever) that has to be taken with a grain of salt. The batch my wife brewed come out as a mediocre pale ale at best. In the future if she finds any more on sale I would beef them up even more and add some roasted grains to make a porter, which should be more forgiving. As a side note, my Antarctic friend brought the empty bags back and I tried using them to brew two small batches for a party, They worked fairly well for that but you have to drink all of the beer at once or the carbonation suffers greatly. I also wouldn't re-use them for anything other than a batch that was intended to be consumed within a few weeks of brewing as it is impossible to be completely certain that the entire inner surface has been properly cleaned. Dana - -------------------------------------------------------------- Dana Edgell edgell at cari.net 2939 Cowley Way #G http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale San Diego, CA 92117 (619) 276-7644 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 13:03:49 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: kraeusening Alan Mckay spoke of the correct spelling for kraeusening. Our homebrew club is located in the Keweenaw peninsula area of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and our club is called the "Kraeuseners", which is an acronym for "Keweenaw Real Ale Enthusiasts United for Serious Experimentation in Naturally Effervescent Refreshment Science". All you need do is remember this and you can easily remember how to spell kraeusening, although you will notice your typing speed slow down as you work your way through it ;^) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 13:13:18 -0400 From: Steven_Johnson at ccnotes.ccity.com Subject: Re: Brew Sack I tried one of those things once, it was a nut brown ale, my dad gave it to me for a present. That was actually the first time 'brewing', luckily the results did not crush my curiosity/interest in brewing. The beer turned out extremely yeasty, big floating wads of yeast, mainly because the tap is directly above the yeast cake, and the slightest 'bump' of the sack stirs up the bottom. However, being as hardheaded/stubborn as I am, I was determined to drink the beer. That is until the 'brew sack beer' was coined a new name, 'nut sack beer'. After that the beer was deemed undrinkable. I hope your 'sack' beer turns out better than mine. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 10:38:15 -0700 From: "Hull, Ted" <THull at Brwncald.com> Subject: moretti la rossa ThomasM923 at aol.com wrote: >Last year I came across something called Birra Moretti La Rossa, which is apparently an Italian version of a Vienna Marzen. I remember enjoying it. I've also had something called Birra Peroni, although that was sometime in the very distant past. I do see both around from time to time.< I think it's probably more accurate to label La Rossa as a doppelbock. In fact, it's been pulled from the shelves here in GA b/c it exceeds the 6% ABV limit. We here are still crying about that. Ted Hull Atlanta, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 13:50:22 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: 2nd All Grain, Comments please? Dropping the hot wort freely into the bucket below is probably not good. It will oxidize the wort somewhat. The question is how much. I would try to find a different solution next time, but don't worry this time. 1.031 in 4 gallons is 124 "pt-gal" (31*4). Divided by 7lb of malt gives you under 20 pt-gal/lb. This is not too good. Probably due to your crush. Try for a finer crush next time. One thing you can test is the gravity of the "final runnings". If this is over 1.010, you're definitely leaving sugar behind. Also, you can taste the spent grain. It should not taste at all sweet. On the SG: You started with 124 "pt-gal" of sugar, and added 2lbs of honey, which would contribute another 34 "pt-gal" for a total of 158 "pt-gal". In 2 gallons, this would give you a gravity of 1.080 (158/2 = 79). So your measurement is not out of line. If you topped this up to 4.5 gallons, you should then have 158/4.5 = 35 points or a gravity of 1.035. This suggests that when you siphoned your hydrometer sample, you had not thoroughly mixed in your "topping up" water, and took the sample from the heavier fluid at the bottom of the fermenter. =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 19:04:14 +0100 From: "Nigel Porter" <nigel at sparger.freeserve.co.uk> Subject: RE: good head on brew >Foam/head helps retain hop flavor and aroma. > >Jim Kingsberg >Fugowee (home) Brewery, Evanston, IL The opinion in UK seems to be completely opposite to this. The use of a swan neck & sparkler (producing tight creamy head on cask conditioned ale) is thought to strip out some of the hop aroma. >>Over here in the UK it seems a very regional thing, and is >>constantly a source of argument between northern and southern >>drinkers. > >OK, but who's right!?!? It doesn't bother me, as long as the ale is good, I'm not overly bothered by the method of serving. One thing I don't like though is chilled and carbonated beer - reinforcing stereotype of warm flat English beer:-) Nigel Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 13:17:24 -0700 From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> Subject: 2nd All Grain, Comments please? (notes) From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com> > Fermentor: yield: about 2 - 2 1/2 gallons. gravity was about 1.080 ????!?! > **Q** can that be right? I topped up with water to about the 4.5 gallon > mark. siphoned into a hydrojar, and got 1.068 OG. seems really high to > me... tested with two separate hydros to make sure... as a couple of neato keen people commented in private mail, I probably didn't stir enough to get an accurate reading for the second time around. Thanks to Lou Hevner and Spencer Thomas for answering so quickly, and which such great information. Thanks guys! And Lou's solution to my drill problem is innovative, and simple, the best kind of solution. Quoted here with out permission, but I hope he doesn't mind. LH>> Try making a loop with string or soft wire that is large enough to go around the drill handle and trigger with a little to spare. Take a pencil or screw driver and slip it in the loop. Then twist the pencil to wind up the loop. The more you wind the pencil, the tighter the loop will be, so it may be possible to actually "control" the speed of a variable speed drill with this mechanism. Mr. Safety says "Keep some snips or scissors handy in case you really need to stop the drill in a hurry." But I can't envision the situation where you couldn't just release the pencil and shut off the drill in an emergency, if you needed to do so. << Thanks again HBD folks.. Now to make that 15 gallon batch of sweet stout for the summer nights, since I just got my 26 gallon white plastic barrel from RCB Equip. badger Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 08:01:59 -0700 From: Laurence Hand <lhand at netcom.com> Subject: Alcohol Insurance The SCA is no longer allowing the manufacture, distribution, serving, etc. of alcoholic beverages at any of it's official activities. Nor can any of its funds be used to purchase anything used for the above. Funds saved by the brewing guilds now must be used for something other than to purchase supplies or equipment. This is due to new insurance requirements. Any ideas on how to find a better insurance company? How do (non-SCA) brewing clubs handle this? Do you really have to buy expensive alcohol insurance to have an event? Laurence Hand - lhand at netcom.com Missile address: 34.05936N, 118.13472W Return to table of contents
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