HOMEBREW Digest #3059 Thu 17 June 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Homebrew Clubs in France / Switzerland? (mark)
  Water (AJ)
  Wanted:  A Review of this Book ("Brett A. Spivy")
  Summer brewing ("BERNER,ROBERT A.")
  The Learning Kingdom ("Brett A. Spivy")
  UK brewing ingest/digest group (andrew.ryan-smith)
  Home Brewed Lemonade (Dave Burley)
  Warm summer ferments (Randy Ricchi)
  psuedo-CAPs (Randy Ricchi)
  Adult Lemonade (Al Czajkowski)
  My Mash Mixer experience. (Michael Kowalczyk)
  Adjuncts in British beer (Eric Reimer)
  RE:  Heather Ale (Chris Cooper)
  CO2 Pressure for Wheat Beer (Brian Kuhl)
  RE: Brew-Sack (Chris Cooper)
  Re: My Mash Mixer experience. (Mark Rogerson)
  Re: Adjuncts in British beer (Jeff Renner)
  IPA updage/dry hopping ("Russ Hobaugh")
  thanks ("Gradh O'Dunadaig")
  head on beer (Liz Blades)
  Italian BEER (Liz Blades)
  Walk in freezer at home (Joy Hansen)
  Clinitest - the birth of a momily ("Stephen Alexander")

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * 2000 MCAB Qualifier: Buzz-Off! Competition 6/26/99 * (http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff) Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! Contact brewery at hbd.org for information regarding the "Cat's Meow" Back issues are available via: HTML from... http://hbd.org Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer COPYRIGHT for the Digest as a collection is currently held by hbd.org (Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen). Digests in their entirity CANNOT be reprinted/reproduced without this entire header section unless EXPRESS written permission has been obtained from hbd.org. Digests CANNOT be reprinted or reproduced in any format for redistribution unless said redistribution is at absolutely NO COST to the consumer. COPYRIGHT for individual posts within each Digest is held by the author. Articles cannot be extracted from the Digest and reprinted/reproduced without the EXPRESS written permission of the author. The author and HBD must be attributed as author and source in any such reprint/reproduction. (Note: QUOTING of items originally appearing in the Digest in a subsequent Digest is exempt from the above. Home brew clubs NOT associated with organizations having a commercial interest in beer or brewing may republish articles in their newsletters and/or websites provided that the author and HBD are attributed. ASKING first is still a great courtesy...) JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 09:54:49 +0200 From: mark <shrike.cars at accesinternet.com> Subject: Homebrew Clubs in France / Switzerland? Fellow forumers.... HELP!!!! I seem to be stuck here in France (rather than Germany) and am looking for a homebrew club in the area around Geneva, Switzerland (either in France or Switzerland).... If anyone knows of any, please let me know? I'm dieing over here!! Please reply to: mark at awfulquiet.com Thanks! Prost! Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:16:41 +0000 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Water Jason Foster posted the following water parameters a few days ago: alkalinity 127 mg/L chloride 1.03 mg/L sulfate 10.09 mg/L hardness (as CaC03) 110 mg/L calcium 25.7 mg/L magnesium 11 mg/L potassium 0.58 mg/L sodium 1.55 mg/L and asked for comments based on concern that there might not be enough of some ions in there. That's true of calcium, sulfate and chloride but as these are easy to add it's really good news. To begin at the beginning the alkalinity and hardness (Ca++, Mg++) calculate out to a residual alkalinity of 102 mg/L as CaCO3. This is going to be the biggest problem with this water - it's going to resist acidification with the result that mash pH's will be on the high side unless dark malts are used in the grist or the calcium is supplemented or the water is decarbonated or some combination of the three. There are many posts in the archives which give the details on how to do these things. For British style ales, simple addition of some gypsum will probably do the job especially if there is some crystal in the grist. Gypsum is calcium sulfate thus its addition increases hardness (thus lowering residual alkalinity and mash pH) and sulfate levels which increases perceived hops bitterness and dryness. Chloride lends a sense of fullness, sweetness, roundness, body to the beer and can be supplemented by addition of table salt or preferrably calcium chloride. The latter is preferred in this case because it also augments the calcium which helps with the mash pH. - -- A. J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 07:39:13 -0500 From: "Brett A. Spivy" <baspivy at softdisk.com> Subject: Wanted: A Review of this Book This is a snip from an email I periodically get from Amazon.com <snip> "Beer Lover's Companion" by Josh Leventhal http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579120628/ref=ad_bb1 If you don't know your bock from your bitter, the "Beer Lover's Companion" fits in a world of beer wisdom between its covers. Standing as tall as the average-size beer bottle, the book takes you on an international ale pilgrimage, showcasing the beers and breweries of more than 20 countries. <snip> Does anyone know anything about this book? The review section on Amazon's page says that not only does it showcase 400 beers and breweries, but also has tasting tips, style guidlines, and tips for homebrewing. It has been my experience that you get what you pay for and this is priced at $9.98 (US). Thanx in Advance (TxiA) Brett Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 08:39:16 -0400 From: "BERNER,ROBERT A." <BERNERRA at apci.com> Subject: Summer brewing In HBD #3058 Nathan Kanous writes about summer brewing: Brewery Ommegang reports to ferment their beers at around 78 degF. If you can keep things properly sanitary (as Lou mentions) you might be able to produce some nice belgian brews if you can manage to get a hold of a sample of their yeast and can't keep your fermentations "cool" enough. Can't be that hard for those of us looking in the bottom of our bottles. <snip> I toured Brewery Ommegang over Memorial Day weekend and they filter their beer before bottling and then add yeast when they bottle. I do not know for sure, but I believe that they use a different yeast for bottle conditioning. They also condition their bottles in a very warm, high 70's low 80's, room before shipping. It is my understanding that many bottle conditioned beers are not bottled with the yeast that the beer was originally fermented with. It helps the brewery retain it's "intellectual property". I have fermented beers in the warm summer months that have had off flavors due to high fermentation temps, but I never found these to make the beer undrinkable, just different. Bob Berner Your body is a temple, a temple of Bacchus. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 07:53:42 -0500 From: "Brett A. Spivy" <baspivy at softdisk.com> Subject: The Learning Kingdom One of the things that I have learned about homebrewers since my recent entry into the hobby (craft, art, science, insert you prefered label here) is that the group is sharply divided into 20% who believe they know it ALL and 78% who believe compared to what they don't know, what they do know is pretty small (very little room for middle ground). The latter group (in which I count myself) is pretty manic about learning everything they can about anything in front of them. So for the vast majority of seekers I must reccomend a daily email from The Learning Kingdom (no affiliation, just think its cool) they have Cool Word and Cool Fact of the day each day, and today ITS ABOUT BEER!!!!! - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Learning Kingdom's Cool Fact of the Day for June 16, 1999 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Why do brewers add hops to beer? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The sharp bite of beer is partly a result of flavor elements that come from the conelike female flower of the hop vine (Humulus lupulus), also known as the "spices" of beer. But hops do much more than add flavor to beer. Brewers began adding hops to beer in the fourteenth century, when it was discovered that not only was the flavor better, but the beer also held its head better (the foam lasted longer) and it was less likely to go bad during the brewing process. Female hops flowers contain glands that produce resins vital to the brewing process. They change the surface tension of the liquid, so the head is firmer, and they also interfere with the growth of undesirable bacteria. Many complex compounds in the hops also contribute to the distinctive flavor of beer. More about how hops improve the flavor and quality of beer: http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.1/tinseth.html Advice for growing hops, and how to get some rhizomes to grow your own: http://www.freshops.com/ Today's Cool Word is beer: http://www.cool-word.com/archive/1999/06/16.html - ------------- The Learning Kingdom's FREE Daily Features ------------- If you're not already subscribed to all our Daily Features, why not give them a try? To add Cool Word of the Day and/or Today in History to your free subscription, visit --> http://www.tlk-lists.com/change/ - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Cool Fact of the Day list membership: 125,911 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- To subscribe, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/join/ To unsubscribe, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/change/ To become a sponsor, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/sponsor/ To subscribe a friend, visit http://www.tlk-lists.com/giftsub/ - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright (c) 1999, The Learning Kingdom, Inc. http://www.LearningKingdom.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Learning Kingdom's Cool Word of the Day for June 16, 1999 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- beer [n. BIR] - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Traditional beer is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting malt, flavored with the female flowers of hops vines. Nowadays, there are hundreds of kinds of beer including beers without alcohol, and beers made from all sorts of grains, roots, and other plant parts. What they all have in common is a foamy head and a rich flavor. Until the 15th century all foamy, fermented beverages were known as ale, and a beer was almost any kind of drink. The original root was Late Latin bibere (to drink). In the 16th century, a distinction arose between beor, which was made with hops for flavoring, and ale, made without hops. Today, that distinction has faded. More "drinking" words from bibere: beverage: a drinkable fluid, but not usually water bib: protective garment worn while eating; to drink heartily bibulous: given to consuming alcoholic drinks; highly absorbent imbibe: to drink; to absorb as if by drinking Today's Cool Fact is about beer: http://www.cool-fact.com/archive/1999/06/16.html Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 14:00:11 +0100 From: andrew.ryan-smith at ind.alstom.com Subject: UK brewing ingest/digest group I've noticed a few UK brewers on here lately, and would like to let all of you know of a small (but interesting - mostly) UK brewing group - UK Homebrew. Anyone wishing to subscribe should find the following useful. 1. To send a message to the new list, address it to... uk-homebrew at ale.co.uk 2. To join or leave the new list, send a message to list at ale.co.uk in ONE of the following forms... join uk-homebrew leave uk-homebrew digest uk-homebrew ...the first two are self-explanatory, the third will either join you to the Digest version (if you are not currently a member of the list) or will swap you from individual message format to the Digest format if you currently receive individual messages. Cheers Rhyno Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 09:59:09 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Home Brewed Lemonade Brewsters: Al Czajkowski asks for opinions on making his Adults Only Lemonade sweeter to balance the sourness of the added lemons. My first thought is that you should try a single infusion mash at 158F. This should maximize any dextrins and give you a finish more like what I think you desire.The astringency you got from using the whole rind can be eliminated by using the zest, as you suggest. I have found that a vegetable peeler can be used on citrus to provide a pithless source of zest without all that time consuming activity and mess you get from using a zester. I would add the peels at the very end of the boil and let it stand for fifteen minutes or more. You could even transfer these sterilized peels to the primary. I suspect the citrus oils may have an impact on the heading properties of this beer. Consider adding less of the juice, just peel lots of lemons and save the insides for the kids. If you still want to use an artificial sweetener upon serving, dissolve the sweetener in a little beer and then add that to the glass. This should reduce the loss of carbonation. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:35:12 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: Warm summer ferments There have been some questions regarding fermenting in warm climates in the summer months. I brewed an "Adelaide Sparkling Ale" once using Australian Ale yeast from Yeast Culture Kit Co. I deliberately fermented at 78 degrees F because it was my understanding that not only does the yeast give a nice fruitiness at that temp, but ferments better at warmer temps. The resulting beer had a beautiful, soft fruitiness, not excessive or harsh in any way. I would suspect other brands of Australian Ale yeast may give the same results. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:41:43 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: psuedo-CAPs I brewed a pseudo-CAP last summer or fall using a kolsch yeast from Yeast Culture Kit Co. The beer was very clean, and the hops (Hall.Mittelfrueh) came through the ferment beautifully. By the way, talk about an aggressive fermentation and MAJOR top-cropping yeast! I'm going to be ordering the same yeast again soon to brew some more pseudo-CAP, as well as experiment with pseudo-Vienna's, etc. Since this is my second post in a row praising YCKC's yeast, I better insert the standard disclaimer.. no affiliation, just a satisfied customer. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:28:39 -0700 From: Al Czajkowski <aczajkow at ford.com> Subject: Adult Lemonade Several folks have noted that I should post the recipe to get better input. What I really neglected to note was that the base recipe was on the HBD back in 97 vol 2459 to be exact. So here it is. Notes on what I have done and plan to do are at the end. I have also embedded a couple of comments in the ingredient and method area. Comments on the replies I have received so far: As you will see, no grain is used in the recipe, so increasing the mash temp doesn't apply. And for myself, I'm staying away from any kind of malt, so using Laaglander DME isn't where I want to go with this. Thanks for the thoughts though. Unless someone has a better idea, I will probably go with lactose to increase the sweetness. First here is the original recipe as posted by Brad McMahon <brad at sa.apana.org.au> and then converted to US measure by David Burki <davidb at pdainc.com> Ingredients 2.25 pounds rough lemons 4.5 pounds Meyer lemons (I couldn't find Meyer lemons - see note below) 2.25 pounds Dextrose 1 sachet ale dry yeast (I used Wyeast Labs London Ale stepped up twice plus some yeast nutrient) Method 1 Grate zest (rind) off a few of the lemons (Me, being the AR guy I am, grated 15 lemons). Do not grate the white pith. 2 Chop up all the lemons into chunks. (This time I'm going to either juice the lemons or use only the inner pulp) 3 Cover the lemons and zest with dextrose and a few quarts of water. 4 Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes. 5 Dilute to 5 gallons in your fermenter, and pitch yeast at below 85 deg. F. (I heated the entire 5 gallons to 170deg F for 10 minutes) 6 Ferment out at 68-77 deg. F for 7-10 days or until fermentation is complete. 7 Bottle and prime as for beer. Wait 14 days for carbonation and enjoy. (I kegged mine - it was ready in 2 hours). Notes: Meyer lemons are sweeter lemons. Use them if available but 61/2 pounds of whatever lemons you can find will work just as nicely. The result of this was a very dry sparkling beverage - tasty but lacking. I made a second batch to which I added 1.0 lbs on light dry malt and 1.0 lbs of malto-dextrin. This batch was marginally sweeter but I think the malt flavor was a negative flavor influence. My initial thoughts on this years first try is to go with 1.5 lbs of lactose but am unsure of how much sweeter this will be. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 21:57:52 -0700 From: Michael Kowalczyk <mikekowal at megsinet.net> Subject: My Mash Mixer experience. This is my recent experience with a Mash Mixer. In surfing the net I came up with this design for the mash tun and mash mixer. - Converted sankey keg. - Weldless false bottom from Heartland Homebrew. Actually another company makes it, but I don't have my notes with me. I ordered it through heartland though. - Motor, rod, 2 fans from Mcmaster Carr. I used Randy Stoat's exact specs from his web page (don't have the webpage, search for Femtobrewery and you'll find it). I mounted it on a piece of wood and fastened it to the keg with screws and wingnuts. - Weldless Thermometer from Beer Beer 'n More Beer. Bonehead brewery design #1 (actually #34, but lets not go there): I mounted the false bottom and thermometer a little too close together. The lower fan just fit between the two. If I moved the fan a half inch higher it would catch on the theremometer, so I moved it lower where it still hit the pickup tube, although it didn't make it stop. I probably should have moved the thermomether, but I said what the heck. When I doughed in at 140 deg for my 15 minute 135 deg first step the motor stopped. I removed it, stirred and tried again. Still stopped. I removed one of the fan blades and left the lower one. Still stopped. I then moved the fan blade higher than the thermomether and it worked. At least it looked like it was stirring. I was concerned that the mash was scorching because the fan was about 12 inches from the bottom. When I saw the temp go from 143 to 165, I knew it wasn't mixing properly. I then went manual. Here's what I'll try next time in order of what I think will contribute the most: - Dough-in at 1.5 qt/lb. I doughed in at 1.25 qt/lb. - Dough-in very slowly. 3 Additions. Let each addition fold-in first before adding the next. - Remove the thermometer. Jack Schmidling says that the mash should be a consistant temp so I should be able to read the temp quickly with just a few inched of mash. This should work. I ruined the motor moving the fans around with a hammer so I may get a bit stronger motor (the motor Randy suggested is fine). That's my recent experience. - Mike p.s. I will NEVER stir by hand again! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:26:27 -0400 From: Eric Reimer <ERIC at etymonic.com> Subject: Adjuncts in British beer Hi all and especially Jeff Renner, Jeff wrote: K&B is unusual among old British brewers in that, according to _The Real Ale Almanac_, all but one of their beers do not use sugar. However, they do use invert sugar in their "Broadwood" (1.040) . They use flaked maize in their mild and ordinary bitter (both 1.034), as well as the 1.050 "Festive." It sounds as if this is their "lightener" of choice. Back to me: Do you know what percentage of adjunct is used in each beer? Thanks and cheers, Eric Reimer Barking Dogs Brewery London, Ontario Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 13:09:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com> Subject: RE: Heather Ale Eric posts a recipe for "Heather Ale" and asks for comments... In reading your post it comes to my mind that the heather used for the bulk of the recipe might be the new growth tips of the plants in spring time, and since the recipe stipulates heather flowers for the "dry-heathering" post fermentation addition I think it backs up the point. Also consider that spruce beers use the fresh "new shoots" by comparison. Just a tought.. 8^) I'll be interested in hearing how the experiment comes out. Chris Cooper, Pine Haven Brewing (aka. Debbi's Kitchen) Commerce, Michigan Member, Ann Arbor Brewer's Guild (Approximately 25 miles from 0.0 Renerian) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:08:51 -0700 From: Brian Kuhl <brian.s.kuhl at intel.com> Subject: CO2 Pressure for Wheat Beer Hello All, I just got setup to keg my homebrew! I am very happy I don't have to bottle my latest batch of Wheat beer. I have a question on carbonation however. What are some of you setting the pressure gage for this type of brew? I read that the volumes of CO2 for wizen is 3.7-4.7. This seems extreme. At 35 degrees F., This should equate to ~21-31 PSI. Am I in the right ball park? Brian Kuhl Folsom, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 14:26:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com> Subject: RE: Brew-Sack Wow two posts on the same day! But the mention of a "Brew-Sack".........Allow my to reflex..... Several years ago I was gifted with a "Brew-Sack" by my loving and unsuspecting spousal unit (she might rethink the gift if she had it to do over again). There it sat under the Christmas Tree, the "Brew-Sack", almost hiding beneath the packages, ribbon, bows and the rest of the trappings of the season. It claimed that with the addition of hot water and a packet of yeast that it would produce a magical beverage for our consumption. The process was simple and I really enjoyed watching the sack swell over the next few days. Once I had a plump "football" I dared push the dispensing tap and to my amazement a carbonated brown liquid came forth, BEER!!! or at least a suitable approximation of beer. I was hooked! I now look back on the "Sack" and it brings to mind the clown car in the circus, you know the one, it pulls into the center of the ring and an unending stream of clowns exit into the arena. Yes the "Sack" became my clown car and from it's humble beginning a seemingly unending progression of brewing "Brew-Stuff" has appeared! My first simple brew kettle! "No dear don't use it for anything else I'll buy you another stock pot for soup, after all that's my brew kettle" and then a second and a third ............ Glass carboys cleaning brushes, handles and holders. A population of plastic buckets of varing sizes and with various modifications, millions of holes drilled by hand, plumbing inventions of copper and plastic, valves and hoses. Once the kitchen was full and bursting at the seams and to preseve household harmony the "Sack" asked if it could use the garage, as I opened the door it spied the space there was no stopping it!!! High output cookers, STAINLESS STEEL (appropriate grunting noises, more power, more power) and REFRIGERATION !!!! Old beer fridge, older beer fridge (I think the "Sack" took out classified adds claiming that my garage was a retirement villa for unwanted fridges, I noticed a shuffle board chalked on the garage floor the other day with a fridge standing at each end. Boy do they move slow! I hope the game is over before I need to park a car in there next winter.). It is really amazing when I think about the volume of "Brew-Stuff" that came from my friend the "Sack", also the amount of fun, friends (the HBD) and enjoyment that it has provided over the past few years. Kurt, I'll raise a toast to you "Brew-Sack" tonight and so should you, so "Eat drink and be merry for tomorrow the Brew-Sack shall inhierit your abode! (Caution whatever you do, don't let it near another Brew-Sack or before you know it there will be little "Brew-Baggies" all over the place!) Chris Cooper, Pine Haven Brewing (aka. Debbi's Kitchen) Commerce, Michigan Member, Ann Arbor Brewer's Guild (Approximately 25 miles from 0.0 Renerian) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 13:25:33 -0500 From: Mark Rogerson <arkmay at flash.net> Subject: Re: My Mash Mixer experience. Michael Kowalczyk posted about a mash mixer and referenced my homepage. I'd like to add my two cents. > ... I used Randy Stoat's exact specs from his web page (don't > have the webpage, search for Femtobrewery and you'll find it). I REALLY need to clarify this on my homepages: MY name is Mark Rogerson - my BREWERY'S name is Randy Stoat (think Horny Weasel). Anyway, to see my mixer (The MashStirMinder) - browse to: http://www.flash.net/~arkmay/Mark/rsf_tour/msm.html > When I doughed in at 140 deg for my 15 minute 135 deg first > step the motor stopped. I removed it, stirred and tried again. > > Still stopped. I removed one of the fan blades and left the > lower one. Still stopped. I then moved the fan blade higher > than the thermomether and it worked. At least it looked like > it was stirring. I was concerned that the mash was scorching > because the fan was about 12 inches from the bottom. When > I saw the temp go from 143 to 165, I knew it wasn't mixing > properly. I then went manual. After I finished building my mixer, I brewed 5-gallon batches to try and work the kinks out of everything. I mashed in with 1.3333 quarts of water per pound of grain just to be sure that the motor wouldn't stop. No more than about 12 pounds of grain was mashed in these batches. Everything was working great so I made a website showing off my wonderful toys. Then I decided to brew my first 10-gallon batch. The added grain bogged down the motor almost instantly so I stirred manually. After the grain had thoroughly soaked up the water and the mash was quite gooey (after a 60 min. sac. rest), the mixer would turn, but not well enough to mix evenly during a temperature boost. More stirring. When I bought the motor for my mixer from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com), it was advertised as being able to supply 50 inch pounds of torque. When their new catalog came out, my motor was listed with 25 inch pounds of torque. That explains a lot. Michael's modified plans for his next session include: > - Dough-in at 1.5 qt/lb. I doughed in at 1.25 qt/lb. > - Dough-in very slowly. 3 Additions. Let each addition > fold-in > first before adding the next. > - Remove the thermometer. Jack Schmidling says that the > mash should be a consistant temp so I should be able to > read the temp quickly with just a few inched of mash. I wouldn't remove the thermometer unless it's in the way. I've made temperature measurements while the mixer was running and found that the heat is not evenly distributed all of the time - which is logical (if the temp was even you wouldn't need to stir). It never hurts to have another source of information. As for fixing my problems, I've thought of this: The fans blades I bought have five fins. I plan on cutting a fin or two off to see if less drag is what I need. If that doesn't help, I'm building a RIMS. Michael finished up by saying: > p.s. I will NEVER stir by hand again! ...which is what I used to say. - -- Mark Rogerson, HMFIC Randy Stoat Femtobrewery Houston, Texas, U! S! A! http://www.flash.net/~arkmay/Mark/rsf_tour/ Minister of Propaganda Kuykendahl Gran Brewers Houston, Texas, U! S! A! http://www.TheKGB.org/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 14:00:55 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Adjuncts in British beer At 11:26 AM -0400 6/16/99, Eric Reimer wrote: >Do you know what percentage of adjunct is used in each beer? Nope, sorry. Some brewers disclosed such details to the Real Ale Almanac author, Roger Protz, other didn't. This is a valuable resource, BTW, in duplicating British beers. It is available in the US for $15.00 Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 16:46:24 -0400 From: "Russ Hobaugh" <Russ_Hobaugh at erm.com> Subject: IPA updage/dry hopping I wanted to thank all who gave me advice on the IPA recipe I formulated. I just bottled it last night, and it was excellent--good spicy bitterness, and nice hop aroma and taste. I got an overwhelming amount of helpful emails regarding the amount of bittering hops, and changed the recipe accordingly. I think the "success" of this recipe was a result of the good advice from all of you. I find the HBD much more helpful than the local club meetings that I go to, so keep it up. This was the first time that I dry hopped, and a couple of questions came up as I was doing this: How do you get the hops to sink? I remember reading about sticking marbles in the muslin bag. I added 5 marbles, and 1 oz. of hops, and it floated for 12 days!(actually it never sank) Is there an easy way to get the bag of hops/marbles into and out of the carboy? I had to cut the plugs up to get them in, and then use forcips to grab the bag, untie it and pull out the hops little by little until I could get the bag out of the mouth of the carboy. There has GOT to be an easier way, so clue me in! TIA Russ Hobaugh Goob' Dog Brewery, Birdsboro PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 09:09:56 PDT From: "Gradh O'Dunadaig" <odunadaig at hotmail.com> Subject: thanks hi kids, just wanna say thanks for all your help. i believe the problem is under-priming. in the future, i will use corn sugar by weight instead of volume, hoping this will turn the trick. just for the record, i soak my bottles in a bleach solution, then run them through a dishwasher that gets so hot that i am almost surprised that the bottles don't distort. thanks again and again _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 99 00:13:04 BST From: blades at airtime.co.uk (Liz Blades) Subject: head on beer ******* Nigel says: >>Here's one to raise a few blood pressures. Is there any practical >>benefit >>to having a thick creamy head on a glass of beer?? > >Over here in the UK it seems a very regional thing, and is >constantly a source of argument between northern and southern >drinkers. OK, but who's right!?!? Us northeners of course. Sorry Nigel Cheers Elizabeth Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 99 00:13:07 BST From: blades at airtime.co.uk (Liz Blades) Subject: Italian BEER Jeff Porterfield wrote in HBD #3056: >"...I've never heard of an Italian beer. Are there any? Just wondering..."< "Last year I came across something called Birra Moretti La Rossa, which is apparently an Italian version of a Vienna Marzen. I remember enjoying it. I've also had something called Birra Peroni, although that was sometime in the very distant past. I do see both around from time to time." First apologies if the attributions are wrong. Italy has now woken up to beer,especially in the north of the country. There are many micro-breweries and brew pubs springing up all over the place especially on the German border. There are are a couple of beers available european wide but these are mainly lager types and nothing special. I get,from time to time,an Italian beer magazine that gives statistics of beer drinkinking they are becoming bigger beer drinkers than us Brits or even the Germans. If I can find my last copy(and that is a big if) I'll translate the stats here. Cheers Elizabeth Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 19:55:33 -0400 From: joytbrew at halifax.com (Joy Hansen) Subject: Walk in freezer at home >Hi Scott, > >I'm not a nay sayer; however, I've seen many commercial walk-in freezer and >refrigerator advertised in used equipment news papers. In the Washington, >DC area, it's called "Want Ad". In Richmond, VA, it's called "Trading >Post". You could save considerable headache, money, and time by using a >unit designed for the purpose. The last ones I saw in the literature had >galvanized interiors and panel construction. Easy to move and reassemble. > > Joy"T"Brew > Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 22:16:25 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Clinitest - the birth of a momily Jim Bentson writes ... >What I am STUNNED about is not a single mention about this post as of the >June 7th HBD. I think all the participants are sick to death of the direction the offline discussion took, and frustrated by the lack of progress by Louis Bonham on his long promised experimental results. - -- >Since no one else will say it, I will. Congratulations to Dave Burley, it >seems that you were right in promoting Clinitest as a useful indicator of >finished fermentation despite the severe pounding you took for maintaining >that view. Anyone interested should read Joe's full post in HBD #3039 (May >25) to get the details on how to interpret the results. Jim - you would be well advised to go back and read the original discussion in HBD circa Aug-Sept 1998. The conclusion that you have drawn is completely and totally incorrect and at odds with what has been posted. Consider the following three items ... 1/ David Burley consistently contended that a fermentation was only completed after a Clinitest reading of 0% or <1/4% was reached e.g: -DB> Clinitest will give a reading of <1/4% or less when a fermentation is -DB> finished. and -DB> Unfortunately, these results may or may -DB> not be meaningful as a means of evaluating Clinitest or my -DB> observation that, in my experience of several decades, a reading -DB> of <1/4% glucose indicates the fermentation is finished. 2/ I contended that 1/4% to 1/2% of *non-fermentables* would remain and that levels of fermentable (but unfermented) sugars did appear in commercial beers (from M&BS tables, avg 0.33%). I then posted actual measurements of 1/2% for an ale I had made, David Burley *insisted* that my 1/2% ale could not have finished fermenting. 3/ Siebels states that a 1/2% and up to 3/4% reading is normal at completion of fermentation. Joe Powers of Siebel in HBD #3039 states (I changed the text case for readability): -JP> The test, though, does require some interpretation of the -JP> results. [...] -JP> The average beer has a reducing sugar level of about 1% as -JP> maltose due to the presence of those dextrins after complete -JP> fermentation of sugar. [...], 1% maltose -JP> corresponds to about 0.5% glucose in completely fermented beer -JP> using tthe Clinitest. Beers with more than 0.5% Clinitest -JP> reading are not completely fermented, unless the wort extract -JP> level was unusually high. In this case more dextrins will be -JP> present, maybe enough to give a reading of about 0.75% [...] Where I would assume that Siebels definition of 'unusually high wort extract levels' is in reference to commercial beers at about 12P. === Let me condense this for those with a short attention span: CLINITEST: 1/ David says 0%, <1/4% and certainly not above 1/4% Clinitest means a finished fermentation. 2/ Steve says 1/4% to 1/2% PLUS possibly some additional for residual fermentables is a finished fermentation. 3/ Siebel says 1/2% up to even 3/4% is a finished fermentation. >What I am STUNNED about is not a single mention about this post as of the >June 7th HBD. I am completely stunned that you, Jim, could have drawn the conclusion that Siebel supports Burley on Clinitest - it's just the opposite. But Jim isn't the only person to have come to this very odd conclusion. === David's <1/4% figure does not correspond to my experience in testing my own and friends HB (greater than 30 samples, none below 1/4%) It does not correspond with the calculation that I presented in HBD. And it is gratifying to see that it does not correspond with Siebels posted statement either. If David "got a severe pounding" you can include Siebels on the list of "pounder's" - they just refuted his "<1/4%" dogma completely when they said a 0.5% reading was normal and higher readings possible. David has stated that he has decades of Clinitest experience and that he consistently gets <1/4% final readings. I take him to be completely honest about his data, but there is a discrepancy to explain, and it is now clear that he bears the onus of proof in the matter. May I suggest he take it up with Siebel as I personally have no further interest in debating the issue without fresh facts beyond David's idiosyncratic experience. As I stated in my original 'Tuborg' post to HBD circa Aug 17, 1998: >A Clinitest reading of 0.25% RSGE confirms completion of fermentation. >At levels above the "2% or greater" color chart value Clinitest indicates >incomplete fermentation. Intermediate readings of 0.5%, 0.75% and >1.0% RSGE available with Clinitest may be useful for assessing completion >of fermentation, but only in the hands of an experienced brewer capable of >estimating wort fermentability and yeast performance by other means. I stand by this and find no reason in light of the Siebel post to modify my statement. Siebel's statement does NOT support the "<1/4% Clinitest as required for finished fermentation" POV - it refutes it completely. Steve Alexander p.s. No offense Jim Bentson - but your conclusion, and this whole subject kinda hacks me off. p.p.s. I now fully expect a rebuttal on how to properly interpret the Siebel statement and why some HBer's experimental data represent "facts" while others are just "opinion". Don't bother I'm not biting on that hook. Return to table of contents
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