HOMEBREW Digest #3061 Sat 19 June 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  regarding Ommegang yeast (jim williams)
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  degermination? ("Keith Menefy")
  Wild Heather Ale and other info ("Campbell, Paul SSI-TSEA-A")
  AHA Convention (Mark Tumarkin)
  Hennepin (William Solomon)
  Re: Rusting Stainless (RobertJ)
  BrewCraft? ("Houseman, David L")
  Clinitest: progress report (Dave Burley)
  Motorizing PhilMill (hdowda)
  rustin' mailbox (Jason.Gorman)
  Good Spots in Long Beach (CA)? ("RANDY ERICKSON")
  Rusting Stainless Steel, Ommegang Yeast ("Timmons, Frank")
  Itallian Food & Italian Beer (Ted McIrvine)
  10 Gallon batch mashmixer. (Michael Kowalczyk)
  A Collectors Dream ("Victor")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:32:28 -0800 From: jim williams <jim&amy at macol.net> Subject: regarding Ommegang yeast This is totally from my memory, but for what it's worth, I seem to remember hearing somewhere, the brewer quoting that the yeast in the bottle would in fact be good for homebrewing. jim Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 00:33:54 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at isunet.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report Nate writes well on dry yeast, but his oxygenation statement befuddled me...So I asked the guru... >Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 08:50:47 -0400 >From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> >Subject: dry yeast lag times >I'll give this a go. The Pasteur effect is when yeast postpone >fermentation > in the presence of oxygen. The dry yeast is usually pitched at high >enough >cell counts that they do not need to replicate to come to fermentation >cell counts so there is no need for oxygen to produce sterols. So if you >pitch >dry yeast to an aerated wort the yeast _may_ wait for the O2 levels to >drop >before they start fermentation. The bubbling you see when you rehydrate >dry yeast is not fermentation, it is oxygen being release that is >naturally >trapped in the cells during freeze-drying. Dry yeast come with their own >oxygen supply, no need to add more. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- >From Clayton Cone... The role of oxygen in fermentation is not a simple subject to discuss. Repitched yeast desperately needs oxygen early in the fermentation. It has depleted its lipid content during the previous fermentation and needs oxygen to produce more lipids so that it can begin to multiply again. Lipids act as a growth factor during the growth phase and then protects the yeast from alcohol toxicity during the latter part of the fermentation. Active Dry Beer Yeast has a large supply of lipids built into each yeast cell at the factory. There should be enough to get the cells through their growth phase in the wort. However, it is questionable if there is enough lipids left to protect the cell against the alcohol toxicity later in the fermentation. There has not been enough research directed specifically at this area. If a large inoculum is used chances are that there will be enough lipids left in each cell to protect the cell. If a small inoculum is used and the yeast has to multiply more, there may not be enough lipids left especially for higher alcohol beer. A low alcohol beer would be less toxic while a higher alcohol beer would be more toxic. One saturation of oxygen (8 ppm) for low alcohol beer and two saturations (16 ppm) of oxygen for high alcohol beer will always be good insurance. The ideal time to add the oxygen for repitched yeast is at the very beginning. The ideal time to add the oxygen for Active Dry Beer Yeast is after about the 14th hour for Ale and 24th hour for Lager. This is usually not practical, so oxygen at the very beginning will be satisfactory. The Active Dry Yeast will go through its lag phase and begin growth and fermentation no matter how much oxygen is present in the wort because of the Crabtree Effect. When the sugar in a wort is above 0.2 %, the mitochondria bodies are effected in such a way that the yeast will produce alcohol no matter how much oxygen is present. The only growth that will occur is from the lipids produced. In the manufacture of the yeast at our factory, the sugar source has to be fed to the growing yeast at a rate that will keep the sugar below 0.2%. When we wish to activate and build into the yeast certain fermentation enzymes, we increase the sugar level to slightly above 0.2% and the yeast will immediately begin to produce alcohol even though huge volumes of air is bubbling through the media. The yeast will continue to grow while producing the alcohol because of the lipids already present in the cell wall. The simplest way to rehydrate the Active Dry Beer Yeast is in warm, 105 F. tap water. Usually tap water contains some degree of hardness. We have found that distilled water and deionized water are harmful to the yeast resulting in many dead cells. Probably, because of osmotic pressure differences, an unregulated amount of water will flow into the yeast cell rupturing some of the organelles. Rehydrating at 105 F. water containing sugar is also harmful. Some enzymes are activated by the sugar and subsequently damaged by the temperature. Because of the salts present in many yeast foods, it is not advisable to add the yeast food to the rehydrating yeast. Reverse osmosis from the yeast cell to the rehydrating water can occur. The yeast food should be added directly to the wort. Fermaid K is designed specifically for this. It is surprising how much of the nitrogen, required by the yeast, is bound up with the sugar during the heating stage and storage in the production of the malt extract at the factory and during the boiling step when preparing the wort from grain. This is because of the Maillard reaction. The nutrient is present but cannot be utilized by the yeast. If the beer maker wishes to be especially nice to the yeast, 0,5 - 1% autolyzed yeast or yeast extract can be added to the rehydrating water before adding the dry yeast. The reason that the manufacturer recommends the rehydration time of 15 - 30 minutes is to take advantage of the large carbohydrate reserve of glycogen and trehalose built into the cell at the factory. After 30 minutes the yeast begins to burn up this reserve. It is better if the yeast goes into the wort with these reserves to get the fermentation off to a faster start. No serious damage is done to the yeast if there is a slight delay in adding the yeast to the wort. The fermentation will just get off to a slower start. There may be some O2 bubbling off during the rehydration. However, some of the bubbles are CO2 coming from the yeast metabolizing the carbohydrate reserve. Clayton - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -------- Personally, I know that yeast are no longer freeze-dried by Lallemand...It is done on a 'Fluid-Bed Dryer," a device that regulates the temperature and volume/velocity of a heated air-stream that flows from the bottom of the device, through the extrusions of yeast that have been sent there. This upward airflow creates a 'fluid bed' as the yeast is 'roiled' by the airstream moving vertically. Too much velocity and the yeast leaves the chamber....too little, and it drops out. Temperature is regulated lower as the process ensues. This info is only offered to join Nate's discussion....if I wanted to pick on someone, I would choose Dave Burley! ;-) HAHA...(Just using Dave's new method for implying mirth!) HB Shops.... As I am involved with Lallemand, I am curious as to which hB shops out there offer our products, and would love to hear from owners and customers about their Lallemand experiences. If you would send your comments to me along with info on the shop...like Shop Name, Address, phone numbers, website, etc. Yes, this is a blatent attempt to gather info that I might use to improve our service to the homebrewing community of owners and customers. Thanks, Jethro Gump brewer at isunet.net Lallemand Web Consultant jethro at isunet.net "It's Just A Joke Dave!" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 20:00:34 +1200 From: "Keith Menefy" <kmenefy at ihug.co.nz> Subject: degermination? G'day Designing Great Beers Ray Daniels pg23 Corn.... This grain is degerminated befere processing to remove the oily embryo. What is degermination? Is this something I can do at home? I had just assummed that because it was easier to go to the supermarket and pick up cornflakes or grits (whatever they are) than to go to a feed store to get maize was why they where used. Wrong again. My first Classic American Pilsner (CAP) is almost ready for drinking (complete with oily embryos), still a bit young. First impressions: Head White/ big bubbles/ lasts about 2 secs Aroma Slightly malty/smells sweet Colour light gold colour/ murky Slightly sweet flavour/ bland Not enough hops Overall, I would not get over excited about it, could easily be dropped from the brew recipes. Of course I have nothing to compare it with so Jeff, if you could send me one of yours..... Cheers Keith Hukerenui New Zealand Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:55:57 +0200 From: "Campbell, Paul SSI-TSEA-A" <Paul.R.Campbell at IS.shell.com> Subject: Wild Heather Ale and other info For those with interest all of these came from the web, so no credit to me - I'm just passing on what others have given....... WARNING: Those of you who have invested in high accuracy and expensive temperature measurement and control systems for your mash tuns LOOK AWAY NOW!!! 8-# - --- >From a UK Channel 4 Program "A Cook On The Wild Side" Wild Heather Ale (makes 30 pints) - --------------------------------- Ingredients: 2.5 kg milled pale malted barley 250 g milled crystal malt cold water small pieces of fat (animal or vegetable) 8 large handfuls heather flowers 2 handful bog myrtle leaves 2 teaspoons baker's yeast or beer yeast 1 level teaspoon sugar or honey per 750 ml bottle Method: Put the milled pale malted barley and crystal malt into a 3 gallon jam or jelly pan. Mix with cold water, then add more water to cover grain and stir into a slack, sloppy mixture. Heat very slowly, over 3 hours, until warm. Do not allow the temperature to go above 70 degrees centigrade - the use of a small piece of fat (animal or vegetable) will indicate the temperature: solid = cold, runny = warm, small beads = too hot. If it gets too hot remove from heat and mix until cooler. Mix every half hour, removing the fat with a spoon each time whilst mixing. Peg a coarse dishcloth over a second pan or bucket and strain out liquor, rinse the grains with several kettles of hot water and leave to drain. Boil this liquid for one hour with 5 handfuls of heather flowers and 1 handful of bog myrtle leaves. Rinse the dishcloth and peg over the fermentation bucket, place 3 handfuls of heather and 1 of bog myrtle in the cloth and then pour the hot liquor over this into the bucket, make up the bucket to 30 pints with cold water and leave to cool to body temperature. Add 2 teaspoons of baker's yeast or a sachet of beer yeast and leave for 6-8 days to ferment. (Adding more wild heather flowers will ferment the ale but the flavour will be more sour and wine-like.) Once the ale has stopped fizzing pour it into returnable strong screw top lemonade or beer bottles (750ml). Add one level teaspoon of sugar or honey to each bottle, replace top and store in a cool place until clear. >From the UK Hop Descriptions; http://www.breworld.com/homebrew/hops.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Brewers Gold (Germany). AA 3.5-4.0%. Suitable for pilsners. No traces of harshness. Examples: Maclay and Co. Maclay 60/-, 70/-, 80/-; Heather Ale Ltd. Fraoch Heather Ale. >From http://www.breworld.com/gb/breweries/heat/brewery.htm - ----------------------------------------------------------- "Bruce Williams, Heather Ale Limited" 736, Dumbarton Road GLASGOW G11 6RD UNITED KINGDOM Phone: 0141 339 3479 Fax: 0141 337 6298 Status: BREWER USING MACLAY EQUIPMENT Established: 1992 History: "Set up by Bruce Williams to brew Fraoch, a Heather Ale, a common brew from the dark ages, but a beer not produced until Bruce commenced in June 1992. After years of warring between Scotland and England the Act of Union was passed in 1707 when Scotland became part of The United Kingdom and along with wearing Tartan, playing bagpipes and highland gatherings, Heather Ale was outlawed. After hearing of the recipe in his Glasgow home brew shop in 1986 Bruce Williams decided to revive the original brew. This was first produced at the West Highland Brewery but moved to Maclays in 1993 where Bruce continues to brew himself. Fraoch is made from flowering heather but special storage conditions adopted in 1996 allowed the beer to be produced all year round, but at two different strengths to match the season. The bottled version is sold all over the world and in 1996 the USA World Beer Championship awarded Fraoch a Gold Medal. In 1996 Bruce commenced brewing Grozet. The name is derived from the auld Scots term for a gooseberry. The 'Hairy Grape' has been used to produce alcoholic beverages since mediaeval times and the latest version is an ale from malted barley and wheat, spiced with bog myrtle and then after fermentation ripe Scottish gooseberries are added to create ' a fruity flavour and refreshing sweetness'." Fraoch Ale ABV: 4.10% and 5.4% Reported !!? Grozet (Gooseberry ale) ABV: 5% Have fun trampling through the heather, Paul Campbell Aberdeen, Scotland, UK Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 07:06:12 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: AHA Convention Hey everyone, The time for the AHA National Convention in Kansas City is almost upon us and not much has been said about HBDrs meeting there. It'd be great to meet as many of you as are going to be there. I haven't been to one before so I don't know if they give out name badges. If they do, maybe we should write HBD under our names to help recognize each other. I believe there is a homebrew sharing event the first evening. That might be a good place to meet and share a beer or two. Anyhow, please send me an email if you are going and we can be on the lookout for each other. Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:51:07 -0400 From: William Solomon <solomw at rpi.edu> Subject: Hennepin I visited the brewery last month and asked very specifically if the bottling yeast and the main yeast were the same. The guide (who seemed to have a clue) said yes. The main ferment HOWEVER is not at 78F: it is 5 days at room temp (somewhere in the 60's) and then 3 weeks at ?35F? (it was 35 or 40F). After bulk conditioning cold, it is filtered and extra yeast and sugar added before bottling. Finally, it carbonates in the bottle for 3 weeks at 78F (this room is heated most of the year). The times are approximate except for the 5 days (I remember thinking that was pretty quick for a triple). As to whether the yeast is good: I have cultured up several bottles and it tasted good in the starter. A couple people have used it but I have not heard the long term reports (they thought it was pretty good right after bottling). I am planning on brewing a small test batch this weekend to get an idea of how it performs in my basement (which seems pretty constant at 69F). Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:00:04 -0400 From: RobertJ <pbsys at pbsbeer.com> Subject: Re: Rusting Stainless Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> wrote > >My daughter and her husband surprised me with a new mailbox for >Christmas. It's made from a Pabst 1/4 bbl stainless keg. > >Problem is, we finally got round to installing it and after the first >rain, it was streaked with rust. It just kept getting worse > >I am well aware that all ss is not equal but I did not know it could >rust. It's not just the keg but even the Hoff-Stevens hardware, >which is used as a door pull is rusting. When you work stainless, cutting, grinding welding, you bring iron to the surface. The iron once exposed will rust. I assume this is where you are noticing the rust. You might want to try passivating the surface to restablish the protective chromium oxide layer. I believe john Palmer's page has the information. Good Luck Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.pbsbeer.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:12:09 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: BrewCraft? Does anyone have a current email address for BrewCraft in Carrollton, TX? The old one at 76004.1610 at compuserve.com bounces. TIA, Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:12:31 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Clinitest: progress report Message text written by INTERNET:lkbonham at hbd.org >Additionally, I have run Clinitest assays on about 15 beers that were made as part of a parallel yeast test by Randy Veasey and Phil Endacott (i.e., same wort [OG: 1.044], different yeasts). FG's on the various beers ranged from 1.007 to 1.012. The Clinitest levels of these beers ranged from slightly below 0.25% to slightly above 0.5%, and the Clinitest results correlated very nicely with attenuation levels. < Louis, I think it looks OK, but please put in the comments that the tests you ran are on beers which have been primed and commercial beers and not according to the protocol I suggested. Include my comments about the fact that both can have residual sugar (possibly incomplete fermentation of the priming sugar and/or chilling and filtration.) While they are in the ballpark, they do not represent an actual test of the claim. Perhaps the one thing we can learn from your experiment on these primed beers is the fact that one of the primed beers showed a reading of <1/4% ( if the reading is correct) which demonstrates that Clinitest is NOT responding to the dextrins or at least marginally ( remember these are all the same wort) - a very important point. The fact that there is a parallel between the FG and Clinitest reading is also important. My interpretation is that it is due to the remaining priming sugar since these measurements you made did not correspond to the actual FG (and are not attenutation levels) but to an SG number you measured on the primed beer. Did you ever figure out your problems with the standard or the dropper size?? Were the results you reported done with the Clinitest eyedropper or were they with your modification of the test using a pipette? You may also wish to comment that 0.5% sugar is on the order of magnitude of one or two SG units. You may want to explain who Dr. Farnsworth is. No disrespect intended, but I don't know ( and others may not) nor have I ever read anything he wrote, as far as I know. I have been using Clinitest for several decades. We have yet to see any protocol from Herlache or from you, which you intend to submit to HBDers. I'd like to see it before it gets submitted. It may save a lot of pain and future explanation. PS. After composing the above, I read your submission in the HBD. I suggest you give us a chance to comment prior to publication on submissions like this in the future. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:50:13 -0400 From: hdowda <hdowda at axs2k.net> Subject: Motorizing PhilMill I have managed to loose the motorizing instructions that came with my PhilMill. I have the model with the shaft going through a bronze bearing(?) into the grinder, not the one with the grinders visible from the side. Any one have a copy they can e-mail? Thanks for any help. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:57:00 -0400 From: Jason.Gorman at steelcase.com Subject: rustin' mailbox One question I have is, is the keg rusting or is it happening at rivets or welded seams? I assume that it is happening at a weld which is a common problem with low quality stainless. Here is the technical nerdy way of saying it I hope you can follow along. The keg is probably Ferritic (400 series) stainless. To be effective it must have at least 12% chromium (Cr). Other alloying agents can bring the effective Cr percentage down below 12%. These mainly being carbon and nitrogen. Especially in the presence of heat (i.e. welding). Upon heating you get chromium carbide forming. This takes Cr from the steel thus lowering the corrosion resistance. Jason Gorman Part time metallurgist, part time brewer and full time drunk (according to my wife). A beer a day keeps the Dr away. I am living proof. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:06:02 -0700 From: "RANDY ERICKSON" <RANDYE at mid.org> Subject: Good Spots in Long Beach (CA)? Hope this makes HBD by the Saturday issue (as I'm leaving Sunday a.m.). Any recommendations for don't miss brewpubs, pubs, or beer bars in and around Long Beach (California) would be most appreciated. I'll be staying near the end of the 710 fwy. Thanks, Randy in Modesto Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:04:00 -0700 From: "Timmons, Frank" <Frank.Timmons at AlliedSignal.com> Subject: Rusting Stainless Steel, Ommegang Yeast The question about Ommegang yeast has come up before, it was answered in HBD 2924, in January 1999. Check the archives. The head brewer responded that they use the same strain at bottling as the beer is brewed with. I was sorry to hear about Jack Schmidling's rusting keg mailbox. My guess is that the stainless steel was wire brushed or ground at sometime in its history with carbon steel tools. These can leave a messy rust bloom that is not easy to remove. Some stainless steels will rust, especially the 400 series steels, but since you said it was nonmagnetic, that rules that out. I bet that the steel is a low grade 304 or 302 stainless steel. The best way to remove the rust is to wire brush with stainless steel brush, on a drill or angle grinder if needed, then allow the metal to passivate for a week or so, then cover with a clear coat. That is what the Nickel Development Institute recommends for decorative applications. Just make sure that the clearcoat is non-yellowing in the sun. Frank Timmons Richmond, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:41:18 -0700 From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Itallian Food & Italian Beer Jeff Porterfield <jporterf at erols.com> was wondering about beer with Italian food and about the existence of Italian beers in HBD 3056. I live on Staten Island (the forgotten borough of NYC) where many of the restaurants serve Italian food. I happen to like porter, double bock, and Belgian double with Italian food, although most of the local restaurants serve wimpy Pilsner styles. I miss the Belgian restaurant that closed where I first sampled Orval, Chimay, Affligem etc. I've had three Italian beers: Peroni and Moretti, which make clean light lagers, and Moretti La Rossa, a reddish bock somewhere between double bock and May bock. Moretti La Rossa is the sort of malty sweet beer that I think goes very well with Italian food. Cheers Ted - -- McIrvine at Ix.Netcom.Com College of Staten Island/CUNY http://www.csi.cuny.edu/academia/programs/mus.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 08:32:07 -0700 From: Michael Kowalczyk <mikekowal at megsinet.net> Subject: 10 Gallon batch mashmixer. Mark (aka Randy) only used his mashmixer ( http://www.flash.net/~arkmay/Mark/rsf_tour/msm.html ) on 5 gallon batches. Anyone have a proven design for 10+ gallon batches? If so, what are the specs? After having a taste of the no-stir life, I gotta have one! No carpal tunnel for me!.... - Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 23:15:21 -0500 From: "Victor" <klooy at thespark.com> Subject: A Collectors Dream **A Collectors Dream** Own a World class series at 10 cents on the dollar. A 25 Year labor of love and extra ordinary talent brought together this beautiful ART OF THE STATES Collector servies limited edition by internationally aclaimed artist and sculptor, William D. Gaither. Each beautiful work of art depicts the official state bird, and flower or tree of the fifty states as designated by the congress of the United States. There is nothing else like it, and it is not available anywhere else. Each seperate work of art is in full color 16" X 20" on fine 80# art stock in vivid detail and are numbered, hand signed, and comes with a certi- ficate of Authenticity from the artist. Sold Nationally at $30 each. NOW YOU CAN HAVE 8 for $25 plus S&H. While they last. All 50 States are available (any mix of states) View the incredible beauty of your state at our virtual gallery at http://www.artofthestates.com (click on entire collection) and order before your state is sold out. Matched numbered sets of the 50 are also available at up to 90% discounts. Added bonus: your minimum order of 8 will automatically qualify you for an additional 10% discount on our collector ornament christmas club offer. This will make your collector prints FREE, when you take advantage of this offer! This is a one time offer and is limited to remaining quanity on hand. Order now at http://www.artofthestates.com We accept credit cards. Or call 1-800-771-3246 Email drclay at bigfoot.com ********************************************************************* * Please remove at mailto:nah554 at usa.net?subject=remove ********************************************************************** Return to table of contents
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