HOMEBREW Digest #3060 Fri 18 June 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Rusting Stainless (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: Heather ale (Rod Prather)
  Walk-in coolers (Harlan Bauer)
  re: adult lemonade (John_E_Schnupp)
  Warm summer ferments (David Lamotte)
  Clinitest: progress report (Louis Bonham)
  Thanks Everyone!!! ("Eric R. Theiner")
  Blow-Off tubing vs. S-Shaped Airlock (todd.m.morris)
  Summer and Ommegang yeast (Frank Tutzauer)
  Melomel Question; HBD 06/15/1999 ("Dennis Waltman")
  heather ale. ("Rob")
  Heather Ale (hal)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 21:36:19 -0700 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: Rusting Stainless My daughter and her husband surprised me with a new mailbox for Christmas. It's made from a Pabst 1/4 bbl stainless keg. It really looks cool. Problem is, we finally got round to installing it and after the first rain, it was streaked with rust. It just kept getting worse so I steel wooled (ss) it with turpentine and then gave it a coat of spar varnish. I am well aware that all ss is not equal but I did not know it could rust. It's not just the keg but even the Hoff-Stevens hardware, which is used as a door pull is rusting. About all I can tell is that it is non-magnetic. Anybody know what is going on here? js - -- Visit our web site: http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 23:59:14 -0500 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: Re: Heather ale Jeff Renner said with reference to Eric Fouch's Heather Ale. > I note that this is an unhopped ale. The only heather ale I have tried, > Fraoch Heather Ale from Scotland and imported here, contains, according to > _The Real Ale Almanac_, "Scotch pale ale malt, wheat (5%), caramalt(3%), > flowering heather, root ginger, sweet gale. 19 units of color [note, EBC, > ~9L]. Brewers Gold whole hops. 22-24 units of bitterness." > Although this might be a modern offering of heather ale, hops are not indiginous to Scotland. Broom heather, sweet gale, rowan and spruce were used as local bitterings for ales. A more historic heather ale would not contain hops though it might help with the flavour and longevity of your ales. I guess a good question would be how to calculate the comparative bitterness of these substitutes. It has also been noted in the past that sweet gale, or myrica, may be a problem for pregnant women. You might want to consider this when using it in brewing. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 00:37:18 -0500 From: Harlan Bauer <blacksab at midwest.net> Subject: Walk-in coolers Commercial walkins can be had for a song at auction. Spend your money on a refrigeration contractor who can disconnect any freon lines, and then can then make the thing work again after you've dissassembled it from the bar/restaurant and reassembled it in your basement. You'll walk away in the end having spent less money with a much finer result. Just a thought... Harlan. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 05:27:46 -0700 From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com Subject: re: adult lemonade >My initial thoughts on this years first try is to go >with 1.5 lbs of lactose but am unsure of how much sweeter this will be. Just make sure you don't serve your lemonade to someone with a lactose intolerance without telling them. They probably wouldn't expect to have problems from "lemonade" John Schnupp, N3CNL Dirty Laundry Brewery Colchester, VT 95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 22:55:45 +1000 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Warm summer ferments Randy Ricchi in HBD 3059 relates a positive experience in using Australian Ale yeast from Yeast Culture Kit Co at 78 degrees F. While I can't find this particular strain in their current on-line catalogue (http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/yckco/yckcotbl.html) I seem to recall that this yeast is the same as that used by Coopers in their Sparkling Ale (which is different from the dry yeast packaged with their kits). I am pleased to hear that Randy obtained good results as the Coopers Yeast do seem to perform well at higher temps, however 20-22 deg C (68-7?) would normal be considered the optimum temperature. I have just come through the ozzie summer using this yeast (cultured from a bottle of Sparkling Ale) at these sorts of temperatures. One warning though, I unfortunately experienced bad autolysis with a number of batches from leaving them in primary for 2 weeks at these sorts of temperatures. With adequate pitching rates, a 1050 ale should be down to 1015 or so and clearing within 3 - 4 days. The different brands of liquid Australian Ale Cultures do seem to be the Coopers Sparkling Ale yeast but I would not recommend any brands of dry yeasts. David Lamotte Brewing Down Under in Newcastle N.S.W Australia (A long away from Adelaide snif... snif..) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:10:35 -0500 From: Louis Bonham <lkbonham at hypercon.com> Subject: Clinitest: progress report Hi folks: Jim Benson notes the endorsement of Clinitest by Seibel guru Joe Powers, and wonders why there've been no comments made on it in light of the old HBD Clinitest Wars. Other folks have written me privately wondering about the status of the offline experimental evaluations of Clinitest. Perhaps it's time for an update to the HBD on our progress . . . After a lot of fits and starts, and untold amounts of offline wrangling and discussions, the participants have agreed to a protocol for testing Clinitest experimentally. HBD regular and professional food science researcher Dr. Tom Herlache (University of Wisconsin-Madison) has reviewed the proposed protocol and has indicated that he will conduct some of these experiments, and he may in fact even be able to get some sophisticated ogliosaccharide assays run on some of his test worts/beers. Indeed, Tom informs me that using reducing sugar measurements (which is what Clinitest does) as a test for determining whether a ferment is finished is actually a fairly hot topic of discussion amongst MBAA/ASBC types. (If you are interested in running one of the test minimashes, drop me a line and I'll forward you the protocol for the experiment. Be warned: it's a very thorough experiment that requires a fair amount of careful data collection. We want to do this right.) Additionally, I have run Clinitest assays on about 15 beers that were made as part of a parallel yeast test by Randy Veasey and Phil Endacott (i.e., same wort [OG: 1.044], different yeasts). FG's on the various beers ranged from 1.007 to 1.012. The Clinitest levels of these beers ranged from slightly below 0.25% to slightly above 0.5%, and the Clinitest results correlated very nicely with attenuation levels. I have also run numerous Clinitest assays on one of my barleywines (100% pale malt, 90 min. mash at 152F; OG: 1.110, SG (at 6 months) 1.026). Clinitest level has consistently been slightly below 0.5%. I've also run Clinitest assays on various commercial beers (so far, all have used ale yeast). Results have been ranging from 0.25% to 0.5%. I'll be checking lagers soon; given lager yeast's ability to ferment melibiose (an ability ale yeast lacks), I suspect the Clinitest levels for lagers might be lower . . . . but we'll see .. . . Thus, while we have a lot more to do in terms of additional experimentation and "bug swatting" various issues that have been raised as to the validity of some of the data collected so far, my personal take on things right now is: (1) Clinitest is *extremely* easy to use. Dave is unquestionably right about this. I daresay it's quicker and easier to use than a hydrometer, and takes a lot less beer (5 drops). (I personally still prefer using a good refractometer and a correction chart for quick gravity checks, though . . . ) (2) Clinitest is an excellent, easy-to-use, QA/QC test for the commercial brewer who wants to monitor batch-to-batch consistency. E.g., if your house IPA typically reads 0.5%, but suddenly batches start reading 0.25% or 1%, you know something's up. (Credit where it is due -- Dr. Farnsworth and other authorities have recommended using Clinitest in this fashion for years.) (3) While the jury's still out -- way out -- my experience so far seems to mirror that of Joe Powers. While some beers have read 0.25%, and a couple have read slightly below this, most have read between 0.25% and 0.5%. We'll know a lot more from the results of the experiments, though. Bottom line at present: Regardless of whether the experiments ultimately confirm or refute Dave's claim that most beers will finish below 0.25%, IMHO Clinitest *is* worth checking out. Louis K. Bonham Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 12:34:51 -0700 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic at skantech.com> Subject: Thanks Everyone!!! Rather than take forever replying, I wanted to express my heartfelt thanks to everyone who made some suggestions on Seattle consumables. I actually didn't have as much time as I thought I would, but I did make it to the Pike Place brewery as well as Pyramid. The rest of my adventures had to consist of one or two pints at the end of the day in Gig Harbor (at the Tides), which still gave me a lot of opportunity to expand my horizons. So thanks again, ya'll!!! Rick Theiner Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 12:53:40 -0500 From: todd.m.morris at ac.com Subject: Blow-Off tubing vs. S-Shaped Airlock I currently use a 6 Gallon carboy as my primary fermentor, and have always used an S-shaped airlock to keep all the assorted nasties out of the fermenting wort. Can anyone explain to me the advantages/disadvantages of using a blow-off tube as opposed to my current method? I've seen it recommended several places, but have yet figure out if one is better than the other. Thanks, -Todd Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 15:37:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: Summer and Ommegang yeast Nathan suggests Ommegang's (sp?) yeast for summertime brewing, and Bob reports that they filter and add bottling yeast. He's not sure if it's the same or not. Anyone know for sure? A buddy and I have grabbed some yeast from a bottle of Ommegang's Hennepin Belgian Style Ale, and we're wondering what to expect. Anyone ever brewed with it before? Thanks, - --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:51:02 -0400 From: "Dennis Waltman" <wakarimasen at mindspring.com> Subject: Melomel Question; HBD 06/15/1999 Thomas Barnett had a Melomel question regarding the addition of fruit (blueberries, apple juice, and peaches) to a nearly completed/completed mead (using wyeast sweet mead yeast; 15 lbs of honey for a 5 gallon batch. >The apple juice i used was made from 100% fresh apples, no >preservatives, and the blueberries and peaches were fresh. Have >others had similar problems? What is the best course of action? >Did i simply wait too long, (1 month after pitching), to add the fruit and cider? Any suggestions/comments would be appreciated. I by no means am an expert, and there is a mead-digest out there just as there is a homebrew digest. However I have had some experience with Meads. I don't recall seeing a specific gravity report in your post, but I'd guess it was in 1.100 to 1.110 range (depending on honey type). First, I'm glad you got an explosive fermentation with Wyeast Sweet Mead yeast, I have not been so lucky. It always seems to poop out on me (nice technical term "poop out") much earlier than I had hoped (a1.050 gravity from a 1.090 OG). So a first thought is, that the fermentation stopped because the yeast couldn't handle the alcohol so far, or some other condition in the mead. You may need to add a different yeast to get the meads going again. One the other hand, my readings have informed me that the acidity of meads often grows stronger as the fermentation continues, until the acid level is such that the yeast can barely function. It makes for long ferments at times. Then you add fruit to your mead, all of which can add to the acidity of your mead. You may need to lower the acidity of your mead and I'm not sure I know enough to tell you how (I have heard of people adding calcium carbonate to meads for this purpose, but I've never heard about or tasted the final product. My experience with Melomels, is that unlike beer, the fruit works best added from the very beginning. The fruit juice/pulp provide nutrients the mead yeasts crave and meads so very often lack. I hope this helps a little Dennis Waltman Atlanta, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:07:59 -0500 From: "Rob" <brewmasters at texasbrew.com> Subject: heather ale. Here is my recipe for the Heather Ale I made a couple of years ago. It calls for Sweet Gale (Bog Myrtle) but I couldn't find any at the time. 2 row 9.lbs. crystal 40 1lb .75 oz Kent Goldings 6.2% 8 cups of dried heather flowers 120 degrees for 20 min 158 35 min pitched with Edme dry yeast. (rocket fuel) Rob Brew Masters 426 Butternut Abilene, TX 79602 1-915-677-1233 1-888-284-2039 savebig at texasbrew.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:32:43 -0600 From: hal <hwarrick at springnet1.com> Subject: Heather Ale I'm glad there is so much feed back on the Heather Ale . Being the time of the year it is I may try the batch with dried flowers and then next year with fresh. My wife and I have been enjoying this pasttime now for a couple years and enjoy all the rewards. Return to table of contents
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