HOMEBREW Digest #3078 Fri 09 July 1999

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Hole in fridge (fridge)
  Measuring Fermentation Progress ("John Robinson")
  good gaskets made to plug the hole (Alan Monaghan)
  skunkiness/trub removal/apology ("Stephen Alexander")
  Sealing fridge holes ("C.D. Pritchard")
  michiganders and other yankees? ("glyn crossno")
  A good looking hole in fridge ("Eric R. Theiner")
  Mashmixer Motors ("BeerLvr")
  Maximizing Detroit 2000 (Biergiek)
  RE: Brewchicks, NOT !! , plus an actual brew type question (LaBorde, Ronald)
  RE:Maximizing Detroit 2000 (Eric.Fouch)
  Michigonie watuh temps and sech y'all. (Pat Babcock)
  Re: Who care(s); we should; not always ("Stephen Alexander")
  Clinitest/'sperments ("Stephen Alexander")
  Mash cutting? ("Patrick Michael Flahie")
  Re: Michiganders and other yankees ("Kelly")
  CO2 line gaskets ("Kensler, Paul")
  Re: 8 Hour Brew Session Yields 1.125 OG BW (Spencer W Thomas)
  re where has the irony gone? Pivo, pivo, pivo (Robin Griller)
  yankees/cold beer storage ("Bayer, Mark A")
  Michiganders and other Yankees? ("James R. Vavra")
  First batch (Bryan L Gros)
  Kyoto ("Dana H. Edgell")
  re-pitching Wyeast 3068... any good recipe ideas? ("Riedel, Dave")
  RE: Benzene drums (Gary D Hipple)
  Excellent spread sheet for labels? (Joy Hansen)
  Homebrewed CIP (Harlan Bauer)
  Dishwashers,yankees and porter (Rick Lassabe)
  Home brew (William Frazier)
  Refractive Index (William Frazier)

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Subscribe to the Distilled Beverage Digest * Send "subscribe" in body of note to dbd-request@hbd.org * Subscribe to the Home Vintners' Digest * Send "subscribe" in body of note to hvd-request@hbd.org Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! Contact brewery at hbd.org for information regarding the "Cat's Meow" Back issues are available via: HTML from... http://hbd.org Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer COPYRIGHT for the Digest as a collection is currently held by hbd.org (Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen). Digests in their entirity CANNOT be reprinted/reproduced without this entire header section unless EXPRESS written permission has been obtained from hbd.org. Digests CANNOT be reprinted or reproduced in any format for redistribution unless said redistribution is at absolutely NO COST to the consumer. COPYRIGHT for individual posts within each Digest is held by the author. Articles cannot be extracted from the Digest and reprinted/reproduced without the EXPRESS written permission of the author. The author and HBD must be attributed as author and source in any such reprint/reproduction. (Note: QUOTING of items originally appearing in the Digest in a subsequent Digest is exempt from the above. Home brew clubs NOT associated with organizations having a commercial interest in beer or brewing may republish articles in their newsletters and/or websites provided that the author and HBD are attributed. ASKING first is still a great courtesy...) JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 08:12:25 -0400 From: fridge at kalamazoo.net Subject: Hole in fridge Greetings folks, In HBD#3077, Sandy C. asked for a tidy way to finish the holes in her fridge where the CO2 lines enter. I was faced with the same situation and visited my local hardware store's electrical department. There I found nice rubber grommets in various sizes. I brought a sample of my gas line with me and found a grommet that was a snug fit on the line. I then drilled correct size hole in my fridge for the grommet. The end result is a clean, air-tight seal and a finished look. Other sources for grommets might be a Radio Shack or other electronic store. Yankee or not, since I live in Michigan I'll post a datapoint for those interested in water temperature in various parts of the country. I have well water and the temperature tested at 48 degrees F when I checked it last monday. I haven't checked it during the winter months so I don't know if it varies much. Hope this helps! Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo fridge at kalamazoo.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 09:16:39 -0300 From: "John Robinson" <robinson at novalistech.com> Subject: Measuring Fermentation Progress Hi all, Steve's post on measuring fermentation progress raises a number of interesting related questions to my mind. For a long time, I have considered the lag phase to be from pitching to one of several things: 1) first sign of krausen 2) first sign of positive pressure 3) first sign of pH drop You get the idea, I'm sure. It would seem to me that what we really need to help determine the rate at which fermentation occurs and the onset of fermentation and various other parameters is first and foremost a better system for acquiring samples after the wort has been placed in the fermentor. A couple of drops of fermenting wort would allow one to chart the drop in gravity over time if the sugar were measured with a refractometer. The real issue to my thinking is getting that sample without contaminating the batch. I think one thing that would be very worth while would be to chart time, temperature and SG in a 3D plot for different yeasts with a 'standard' wort. Sounds like a good BT article to me! :) A proper set of definitions would be required WRT lag time, and other stages in the fermentation process. Any takers? - --- John Robinson "The most basic rule of survival in any situation is: Technical Architect Never look like food." - Park Ranger. NovaLIS Technologies robinson at novalistech.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 08:35:51 -0400 From: Alan Monaghan <AlanM at Gardnerweb.com> Subject: good gaskets made to plug the hole Sandra L Cockerham Poses the question about plugging the hole in the side of the refer for the CO2 line. I called the Rapid (standard disclaimer applies) folks and they set me up with one of the Stainless fittings used in Picnic Coolers and we just added another nipple assembly on the other end instead of the tap. This worked better than I could has asked as it looks very professional and goes right thru the refer. "You don't want to argue with anyone larger than your van." - Red Green Alan G. Monaghan Gardner Publications, Inc. AlanM at Gardnerweb.com <mailto:AlanM at Gardnerweb.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 08:46:08 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: skunkiness/trub removal/apology In late May I purchased a 6-er of Spaten Lager from a grocery and dominant flavor was skunkus maximus. Totally undrinkable - undoubtedly from the fluorescent lights and green bottles. I left the remaining 5 bottle in the dark at ~58-60F and tasted one yesterday (just under 5 weeks storage time). Amazing but there is only a faint residual skunkiness, perceptible but not significant. Think I'll let 'em go a couple more weeks tho' basically the malady is cured. Hat's off AlK. === Cold trub removal .... Lee Bogardus wants to remove cold break and Keith MacNeil responds with several methods ... among them ... Whirlpooling - Whirlpooling cannot help with cold trub. I'd quote the people who know, and who have studied the matter in depth except then the neo-Luddites would accuse me of being a dogmatic librarian or perhaps burn me as a witch. even the big boys don't claim it will remove *cold* break. 3Keith says >I usually rack into secondary after a week (2 at the most) I agree that one valid reason for secondary transfer is cold trub removal - but to remove trub effects the transfer needs to take place early - like a day or two. For lagers a trub removal transfer at 12-24 hours and a secondary/lager transfer at 3-14 days. For ales 24-36 hours for the secondary transfer is the norm. If your normal gravity ale is still fermenting on day 7-14 then you should be busy 'relaxing, not worrying and having a homebrew' over bigger problems than trub. Cold chill/transfer. Cold chilling wort (even to near freezing temps) and allowing for cold trub sedimentation is very effective in my experience. This level of effort is IMO only justified for pilsners and other delicately flavored styles. I've done side-by-sides and do prefer the CB removed pils' more. Others argue that it is never justified and the mega-brewers don't bother with their lghtly flavored lagers. Centrifugation is impractical and aeration/floatation of trub appears to me to be ineffective in HB sized containers (might work for several meter deep fermentors). Keiselguhr filtratation is excessive effort IMO. I guess the good news is that removal of the large lumpy *hot* break along with the majority of the entrapped fatty acids and lipids is the biggest flavor issue. For the tiny cold break particles, flavor impact is less. >my attitude [...] fully embraces the RDWHAH philosophy Is intellectual sloth a philosophy now ? == Apologies to HBD re Phil Yates. Attempted to cancel yesterday's post and take the matter offline, but not in time. 'Nuff said, -S (full name appears above for the technically impaired) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 08:56:37 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: Sealing fridge holes >Sandra L Cockerham asked: >Has anyone found any good gaskets made to plug the hole I intend to >drill in the side of the old Kenmore to put the CO(subscript: 2) >line through ? The Fridge Guy might have a better handle on it, but I use Duct Seal. It resembles a sticky clay and is used in the HVAC and electrical trades to seal stuff. Pick it up at a good building supply store or a HVAC or electricial supply house. Has hundreds of uses- from sticking a temp. sensor to the inside of the fridge or sealing around a fermenter airlock to assessing the terminal ballastics of projectiles. c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 08:37:29 -0500 From: "glyn crossno" <crossno at tnns.net> Subject: michiganders and other yankees? Any american not born in the south is a yankee. Any american not born in the south living in the south is a DA#$ yankee. Glyn Crossno American by Birth Southern by the grace of Nature Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 10:02:27 -0700 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic at skantech.com> Subject: A good looking hole in fridge Sandy C. asks about a way to make her CO2 hole in the fridge look better. My thought on it is to use a flange ring that goes around the tap shank. Y'know-- the black plastic or metal ring that flares out to cover the hole that the tap sticks out of? You'll need to put gaskets around the hose on both sides of the fridge and flange to hold the hose and flange in place. And for sealing, I just use the expandable foam that comes in the aerosol bottle. A more visual explanation: Fridge Wall | | | |\ | | \ <----Flange __== | |__\==____ __________|______CO2 Line ==| | / == <-------Gaskets on either side | | / | |/ | | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:11:01 -0400 From: "BeerLvr" <Beerlvr at hrfn.net> Subject: Mashmixer Motors I saw a web site the other day that had a mash mixer on it. The individual used an Ice cream maker motor and paddle. I have picked up a few of these in the past at thrift stores and garage sales for ~$5 or so. Seems that that might provide a high torque motor that should work. Mike Pensinger BeerLvr at hrfn.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:35:00 EDT From: Biergiek at aol.com Subject: Maximizing Detroit 2000 >I apologize for this somewhat regional post, but, as >most now know, the 2000 AHA NHC is slated for the Metro >Detroit Michigan area. A group is forming, led by Rex >Halfpenny, to organize and coordinate this event. The >successful execution of the 2000 AHA NHC will depend on >the concerted efforts of MANY volunteers from across >the state (and anywhere else said volunteers wish to >come from...). How can I contact Rex. I would like to nominate Eric Fouch and the Brown Eye Gang of Western Michigan as Directors of Entertainment. Lets make this event the best NHC ever! Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 09:36:37 -0500 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Brewchicks, NOT !! , plus an actual brew type question From: Sandra L Cockerham <COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L at Lilly.com> >Has anyone found any good gaskets made to plug >the hole I intend to drill in >the side of the old Kenmore to put the CO(subscript: 2) line through ? I have >seen duct tape used, but I would like something >"more finished." You might consider using a rubber stopper, like we use for fermenters and airlocks, but pass the line through the hole, then push the correct sized stopper into the hole in your fridge. If you want to plug a hole after you no longer use it, I have seen snap-in metal buttons that come in various sizes, but I have no idea where you could buy one. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:59:00 -0400 From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com Subject: RE:Maximizing Detroit 2000 Rex Halfpenny can be reached at: mibeerguyd at aol.com I am honored at this nomination, and will strive to fulfill my post to the best of my ability. Eric Fouch Bent Dick YoctoBrewry Brown Eye Guys Division Kentwood, MI - ------------------( Forwarded letter 1 follows )-------------------- Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:35:00 EDT To: post@hbd.org Cc: todd.ed, jason.gorman, eric.fouch From: Biergiek at aol.com Subject: Maximizing Detroit 2000 >I apologize for this somewhat regional post, but, as >most now know, the 2000 AHA NHC is slated for the Metro >Detroit Michigan area. A group is forming, led by Rex >Halfpenny, to organize and coordinate this event. The >successful execution of the 2000 AHA NHC will depend on >the concerted efforts of MANY volunteers from across >the state (and anywhere else said volunteers wish to >come from...). How can I contact Rex. I would like to nominate Eric Fouch and the Brown Eye Gang of Western Michigan as Directors of Entertainment. Lets make this event the best NHC ever! Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 07:33:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at mail.oeonline.com> Subject: Michigonie watuh temps and sech y'all. Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... St. Pat's asks: > I'm curious about the water temp and associated cooling rates for you > michiganders and other yankees. Well, pard, mah watuh is about fity sevun duhgrays in thu summuh. With uh countuh-flow chilluh, ah kin cool mah wut tah butween sixty-foah and sixty-eight duhgrays jest as fast as ah kin pump it through with a .25HP pump. That's duhgrays in fahrenhot, y'all. (For yankee translation, send private e-mail.) :-) - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:15:18 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Who care(s); we should; not always Alan McKay writes ... >Though I do agree that we can sometimes benefit from what >the Big Boys are doing, [...] not everything the Big Boys do >can be applied to what we do on a small scale. You might recall that I made the same point re: some of the stuff coming from some recent Siebel grads last year. >I think someone who blindly recites the dogma from the Big Boys >without ever giving a second thought [...] I don't see much blind recitation - do you Alan ? HSA ? You'd probably be interested in a paper under my nose that tracks flavor development of 6 beers over 6 months at room temps. Chemical assays, tasting panels and finally correlation with the production methods. Of course it's just dogma from some well instrumented and educated guys, and not in Dr.Pivo's cellar. And it appears in one of those damnable books - from a library no less. Guess you prefer to live with the single data point from Dr.Pivo as the last word on the matter - right ? Where's the dogma now ? I also see often are HBers who foolishly assume that a 15gal cylindro-conical will work like an 15 bbl one without understanding the importance of metabolically induced thermal currents involved. It's all there in the books and journals that are so despised by some. We can't blame the big boys for dogma when the problem is our own unwillingness to pay attention to these details. The big guys do (or support) science and apply it to their own ends very effectively (tho' w/ profit not flavor in mind). They are not bound by any dogma. We little guys sometimes take the methods of the big guys wholesale without understanding the context, limitations or intended ends of the method. It's the "dogma of the little guys" who don't bothering to understand the reasons for the methods, yet applying them anyway. When a technical question comes up - whether the fermentability of a particular sugar or a metabolic details of yeast or the flavor impact of cold trub you can be fairly certain the books and journals - to the extent that studies are available and within their context - say accurate things. What you should never count on is that the commercial methods derived from this science are directly applicable to HB. Dave Houseman says ... >Homebrewers can learn from the major breweries lessons in >quality control and consistency. I would agree - but of course the neo-Luddites would just throw more stones. The new issues for HBD are such pithy stuff as whether to wear kilts or lederhosen, or how to swing a cat. How do you technophobes mash without thermometers anyway ? -S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 11:40:36 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Clinitest/'sperments Jim Liddel writes ... >I tend to keep the experimental info to a small group of folks. Posting experiments just leads to emails from folks who reject your result but want to perform 100 times more work in order prove. Science by ignoring contrary data is well developed here.. Better to discuss the plaid needed on that brewing kilt. >I for one suggest the >Clinitest protocol be made available for review by the >whole group. I for one think that the protocol as it now stands is really >ill conceived. Protocol ? Usually a statement of the hypothesis being tested comes before defining a protocol. Scott red tartan will solve this problem no doubt. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 12:22:55 -0400 (EDT) From: "Patrick Michael Flahie" <flahiepa at pilot.msu.edu> Subject: Mash cutting? The discussion on berliner weiss has repeatedly referred to cutting the mash during lautering to prevent channelling. I searched the archives and found nothing describing it (at least this year), though you would be surprised at how many people cut their mashtuns or Easymashers in 1999. Can anyone give a little insight into the process and benefits of this? Thanks a lot. The discussion has been interesting. - --Patrick Flahie Jackson, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 11:45:07 -0500 From: "Kelly" <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> Subject: Re: Michiganders and other yankees Well, I'm originally from Arkansas, and considered myself a true southerner...however, since moving to New Orleans, they told me they consider ANYONE born north of I-10 to be a yankee. I may question that one....but, I would consider anyone north of TN to be one..... But, the war of northern agression has long since passed, and I'm willing to drink good beer with just about anyone..... :-) Kelly Quoted Stuff: - ------------------------------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 21:14:42 -0400 From: Bret Morrow <bret.morrow at yale.edu> Subject: michiganders and other yankees? <snip> What! People from Michigan are not Yankees. In fact, I don't even consider people born in CT to be Yankees. Maybe, Chris in Dover, NH or Paul in Vermont, but not Michigan. Heck, I was born in western PA, and there is no way I would consider myself a Yankee. I really thought it was just a couple of counties in Maine where the natives are true Yanks. <snip> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 11:59:22 -0500 From: "Kensler, Paul" <paul.kensler at wilcom.com> Subject: CO2 line gaskets Sandy, I use one of those bungs from a 5L minikeg. You can drill a hole through the fridge that the bung will fit (measure it, but I think its 7/8"), and a typical CO2 tube will fit snugly through. You might need some silicone lubricant or water to help it slide through. Of course, you have to feed the tube through before adding any hose barbs or connectors at the end, but I expect this will be a fairly permanent setup. Sandy C. said: "Has anyone found any good gaskets made to plug the hole I intend to drill in the side of the old Kenmore to put the CO2 line through?" Paul Kensler Plano, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 13:17:53 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: 8 Hour Brew Session Yields 1.125 OG BW >>>>> "Charley" == Charley Burns <cburns at jps.net> writes: Charley> The question I have is, will that extended boiling time Charley> screw up the barleywine. I think just the opposite. But it depends on what you're trying for. A friend makes a beer that is very close to Thomas Hardy's Old Ale. His standard procedure include a 6-hour boil. He believes that the boil is essential to developing the desired flavor profile. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 13:50:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Robin Griller <rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca> Subject: re where has the irony gone? Pivo, pivo, pivo Hi all, I hesitate to enter this discussion for the same reasons that I rarely post here: I'm a relatively newborn brewer, but more importantly, the atmosphere on the digest is frankly often rude and hostile. I guess that makes it the same reason that the Pivos have all gone. Where have all the Pivos gone? They got sick of the hostility I suspect. However, I felt that I had to respond to Mr. Alexander's post, to point out that due to an apparent lack of a sense of irony and an apparent unwillingness to use basic politeness, Mr Alexander has missed the point of 'Dr Pivo' entirely. Mr Alexander writes that 'Jeff wasn't attempting to deceive, but the pseudonym he used carried undeserved authority'. Such a statement makes my two points above. First, Mr Alexander apparently never noticed that the name Dr Pivo was *ironic*. How could anyone imagine that the person who was arguing *against* the various claims to science made in the digest, the person who humourously *undermined* claims to scientific knowledge, the person who denied that *any* individual or group of individuals 'possessed' the claim to scientific knowledge as property, could be calling himself Dr Pivo *except* as an ironic reference to the very claims that he was arguing against? The name was a humourous, ironic, symbolic representation of Dr. Pivo's own position and role here; the non-Dr pushed to humourously diagnose and disabuse us of our self-confusions about our possessing truth and science. Thus the assertion made about 'undeserved authority' by Mr Alexander here, and more brutally by another gentleman back a month or so (and Mr Alexander is correct in stating that his own post back then was by far the more restrained of the two), is utterly ludicrous. There was no claim to authority made through the name; in fact, the point of the name was *the exact opposite* of that presumed by Mr Alexender. It was *part and parcel* of the humour and debunking Dr Pivo was carrying out, not a claim to authority. The misrecognition of the humour behind the name just demonstrates that Dr Pivo had correctly identified the humourlessness and lack of imagination of the dour claims to science made by some around here. Second, regarding basic politeness. Here there are two basic points: the first is that neither Mr Alexander, nor the other gentleman previously, seem to realize that their statements about 'unearned' titles and 'undeserved' authority are simple rudeness. To say to someone, I won't call you X, because you haven't earned it is insulting. What they have done is misrecognized the meaning of the name; attached a positive evaluation to the name; described this evaluation; then told someone 'you're a bum, you don't measure up'. Very gentlemanly. Do people not recognize this as basic bad manners? Furthermore, it is basic politeness to address people in terms that they are comfortable with. It is impolite for me to insist on using someone's first name, if they prefer Mr or Ms or Mrs X, for example. In different circumstances and locations people wish to be named in different ways. In particular, on the net it is not uncommon for people to use pseudonyms; it is a generally accepted practice. When someone chooses to be called by a certain name in a given forum, especially in this case as Dr Pivo made no attempt whatsoever to conceal himself behind the name, it is basic netiquette to use that name. To insist on 'Jeff' rather than Dr Pivo is, imho, simple bad manners. It is, of course, of a piece with calling someone a 'whiney victim'. In conclusion, my apologies: first for discussing manners. Before I get flamed all to hell, I know it is not my role to give lectures on manners and apologize if anyone feels that I have done so and inappropriately. Second, I apologize to Mr Alexander if he would prefer not to be called Mr Alexander. Given the touchy subject discussed here, I thought it better to be as careful as possible regarding politeness. Finally, I apologize for the length of this non-brewing post. Donning asbestos... Yours sincerely, Robin Griller Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:58:43 -0700 From: "Bayer, Mark A" <Mark.Bayer at JSF.Boeing.com> Subject: yankees/cold beer storage collective homebrew conscience_ bret morrow wrote: >What! People from Michigan are not Yankees. In fact, I don't even >consider people born in CT to be Yankees. Maybe, Chris in Dover, NH or >Paul in Vermont, but not Michigan. Heck, I was born in western PA, and >there is no way I would consider myself a Yankee. I really thought it >was just a couple of counties in Maine where the natives are true Yanks. from a native of southern illinois who lived in atlanta for a few years, here's how to find out if you're a yankee: examine your home state's history in the years 1861-1865. if it didn't involve rebellion, you're a yankee. if the maine definition were correct, we'd all be sending our congressmen to richmond. it only takes a few days, at most, in atlanta to discover this fact. regarding the controversial storage of regular gravity ales at cold temps: my experience and preference is to keep beers that i like (at that point in their evolution) cold. i find that beers degrade faster the warmer the temp. is. that's obviously based on my personal preferences. that's why i wrote it would be a good idea for dean to do a side-by-side experiment to find out what his preference is. that's ideally what we should all be doing with all this info. that gets put out here on the hbd. if you see a technique or a statement that interests you, do some of your own experimenting and find out how it affects your beer and what your subjective opinion of that effect is. it all comes down to your tastebuds and we're all different in that respect. can somebody scan the offensive zymurgy picture and post it to the web? i'm doing a condemning research paper on sexy brewers. ("what's wrong with being sexy?" - nigel tufnel) brew hard, mark bayer stl mo Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 13:08:48 -0500 From: "James R. Vavra" <JVavra at austin.rr.com> Subject: Michiganders and other Yankees? Everyone north of the Red River is a Yankee, didn't y'all know that? >Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 21:14:42 -0400 >From: Bret Morrow <bret.morrow at yale.edu> >Subject: michiganders and other yankees? > >What! People from Michigan are not Yankees. In fact, I don't even >consider people born in CT to be Yankees. Maybe, Chris in Dover, NH or >Paul in Vermont, but not Michigan. Heck, I was born in western PA, and >there is no way I would consider myself a Yankee. I really thought it >was just a couple of counties in Maine where the natives are true Yanks. Return to table of contents
Date: 08 Jul 1999 10:28:58 -0700 From: Bryan L Gros <Bryan.L.Gros at kp.org> Subject: First batch Clyde asked for advice for his first batch. I've seen good advice so far, especially from Pat Babcock. My simple advice is, to quote the god Nike, Just Do It! The more you read about it, the more concerned and worried you are likely to get. Just make that first batch, and you'll be pleasantly suprised about how easy it is and how good the beer is. Then, before your second batch, re-read the advice. It will make more sense then, and your second batch will be much smoother and the beer will be even better. Most people on the HBD are interested in understanding as much as possible about the brewing process in order to make the best beer possible. There are many other brewers out there who make generic beer batch after batch, and aren't interested in all the details behind the process. But everyone enjoys it at their level. Good luck. - Bryan Oakland CA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 14:05:47 -0700 From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell at cari.net> Subject: Kyoto HBD, I will be attending a conference in Kyoto, Japan Nov 6-10 and I am looking for some beer traveling advice? 1) Are there any good beer bars or microbrewies near Kyoto? 2) Any good saki microbreweries? 3) Are there any inexpensive Japanese hotels (like Motel 6 in the US)? Thanks, Dana edgell - -------------------------------------------------------------- Dana Edgell mailto:edgell at cari.net San Diego, CA http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 14:43:32 -0700 From: "Riedel, Dave" <RiedelD at pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca> Subject: re-pitching Wyeast 3068... any good recipe ideas? Folks, Being moderately summer-y around here these days (and hoping for more), I plan to brew a Weizen as my next batch. Recently, I made a bit of a promise to myself to always try to re-pitch my yeast at least once - not so much to save money, but to save step-up effort. So, what should I make as the re-pitch batch? The problem here is that 3068 Weiheinstephan is so distinct that it's hard to make a second batch that is greatly different. This is totally unlike the situation where you make a bitter, then re-pitch into a stout. My ideas, so far, are to re-pitch into either a dunkelweizen or a roggenbier (rye malt). Perhaps in light of Marc's recent posts, a Berliner weisse might be nice. So, since the digest has been light lately, how about some recipe suggestions for using 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen??? cheers, Dave Riedel Victoria, BC, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 18:45:39 -0500 From: Gary D Hipple <ghipple at mmmpcc.org> Subject: RE: Benzene drums As the owner of an RCB benzene drum and a 24 year veteran of industrial environmental monitoring, I do not feel there is any real danger from these drums. The drum had not appreciable odor upon receipt from RCB. After cutting the drum (32 gal and 18 gal "halves"), I boiled water in it, and since, 2 batches of beer. If there was any significant benzene, it's gone now... and it was goooood! I bought a second drum for use at work. We use it in the laboratory to create gas phase standards of various organic solvents including toluene, acetaldehyde, etc. These gas standards are analyzed by GC/MS to verify the concentration and there has been no residual benzene detected, even in this drum which has never had water boiled in it. These standards are used to "calibrate" gas phase IR and FT-IR equipment for field use. You get a bigger dose of benzene from filling up your car at gas station - full serve or self serve. Gary Hipple St. Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 16:57:43 -0400 From: joytbrew at halifax.com (Joy Hansen) Subject: Excellent spread sheet for labels? Hi, I'd love a copy. Send it right away! I've been using the Avery label and printmaster to align each and every printing so there's four on a 3" label. Then cutting each off (square) and sticking on bottle caps. Sure would be nice to use the circle type. Have you seen a permanent adhesive label that's round? The only ones I see at Super Wal Mart and removable and they don't stick well to anything, thus the 3" label because it stays in place indefinitely. BTW, the printmaster stuff allows me to put picture stuff in the background of the description of the brew. Sort of personalizes the bottle cap, but a lot of trouble! Thanks, Joy"T"Brew Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 20:51:09 -0500 From: Harlan Bauer <blacksab at midwest.net> Subject: Homebrewed CIP OK. I got a few requests for a follow-up on Homebrewed CIP so here's a quick primer. ASSUMPTIONS: 1. Food-grade pump that can functionally handle 200-208F water. 2. CIP chemicals--acid cleaner and alkaline cleaner (see below for suggestions). 3. Food-grade hoses that can handle pumping temperatures. 4. Spray-ball (see below) How you connect this all together is up to you, but I suggest a couple of strategically placed tri-clamps connected to male beer-nut threads. In this way you have maximum interchangability without the cost of going entirely to T/C. Winged beer-nuts are great! All you need is a gasket and no tools. I am going to use my seldom used home system to illustrate the procedure. - --Building a spray ball First, you need a lid to attach it to. I use the lid from my Mash Tun that has a 3/8 male flare fitting pointing downward. I usually "plug in" the sparge arm here, but this lid doubles as the CIP lid for all my vessels. It's made from the bottom of a budwizer keg. This just sets over the 10-in hole in the top of my kettles. It looks like a drummer's cymbol. 1. So, start with a piece of 3/8-in copper tubing, very straight. 2. Flare one end and slide a flare nut onto the shaft. 3. Solder a 1/4 X 1/2-in copper reducer onto the other end. 4. Solder a short length of copper pipe into the reducer along with a cap. 5. Drill a whole bunch on tiny (<1/8-in) holes. More on the top so the spray is aimed at the top and sides. Don't forget a single drain hole in the bottom (ie, the cap). Now you've got your spray-ball. Plug that into the lid, and place the lid onto the kettle to be cleaned, let's say the Boiling Kettle. - --CIP regime 1. Place BK on burner and heat water. 2. Connect pump to BK outlet, a 1/2-in ball valve with a T/C. Both the pump and the BK are fitted for T/C so I connect them with a short length of brewer's hose, and 2 clamps. 3. From the outfeed of the pump, connect to the counter-flow HE in the opposite direction that wort flows (the cleaning is always a backflushing) Here, I use braided PVC hose from the hardware store and replace it a lot because it can't take the heat. The connections are all 3/8-in flare. (Beer-nuts would be better, but I don't have the T/C adapters). 4. Note that I have shutoff valves on both ends of the HE. This is to allow the HE to be packed (under pressure) with iodophor after cleaning (see below). 5. From the outfeed of the HE, another piece of braided hose is used and connected to the top of the lid/spray-ball assembly. Flare fittings are used. OK, here's the circuit: BK to pump to HE, back to BK (thru the spray-ball). I'm sold on BIRKO's products Bru-R-EZ and acid brite. No affiliation, just a VERY happy brewer. In their system, acid first, followed by Bru-R-EZ. This is the opposite of most products. All I will say is that after nearly 2 years of using this stuff in a small brewpub, the stuff works remarkably well. Whatever you use, follow instructions for temperature and concentrations. Measure, don't guess! By this time, the water should be heated up. If you have a temperature probe, turn off the heat at 120-140F. Transfer most of the water to the HL tank, but save 1-3 gallons for the acid wash. 1. Acid wash--recirculate 1-2 oz/gal at 120-140F for 30-min. Drain, do not rinse. 2. Refill kettle from HL tank (1-3 gal) and heat to 140-160F 3. Alkaline wash--recirculate 2-4 oz/gal at 140-160F for 30-min. Drain. 4. Refill kettle from HL tank and bring to boil. 5. Rinse the first bit of hot water down the drain, and then re-connect to the recirculation loop. Hot water is a great rinse and an even better sanitizer. 6. After about 5-min of recirculation (or an in-line temp probe reads 200F), Drain. 7. Put some cold water into the BK, add iodophor at 25ppm and begin recirc. 8. Close the farthest valve downstream on the HE slowly, and then the other. The HE is now clean, sanitized and packed with iodophor, and the BK is sparkleing clean, as are all the hoses, the pump, and anything you put into the BK. Well, there ya have it. I'd imagine this would be ideal for cleaning a RIMS, but any 2 or 3-tier setup based on budwizer kegs lends itself well to CIP. TTYL, Harlan. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 21:33:09 -0500 From: Rick Lassabe <bayrat at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Dishwashers,yankees and porter Just for a little fun!!!!! It seems some of us are sexist for not thinking pictures of "the little woman" doing the dishes in an electric dish washer is degrading. God forbid if she was at a sink with only her hands to wash them, or even worse, at a sink with an old hand pump and had to heat the water from the wood burning stove. How can anyone really be offended by a picture of someone at a dishwasher, I wash dishes, who want's a picture? $20.00 each plus postage. Sorry no C.O.D.s. Now, it seems someone may have been offended by using the word "yankee" to describe a group of people that live north of someone; hell, I'm a dumb ole "Red Neck Rebel" and proud of it. Down here in Mississippi most folks, me included, think that anyone north of Interstate 10 is a "yankee",( it may be different in your state.) Wow! with that kind of thinking, I would be a "yankee" as far as the people that live south of me are concerned; scary!!! We have a saying down here; "A yankee comes to visit, a damn yankee comes and stays". This was all light-hearted and not meant to offend. Relax have a etc. etc. etc. Enough already!!!! And now back to beer-beer-beer-beer............??????? I like porter and our club is having a competition coming up soon for a porter. What's your best recipe, (all grain or extract) for a porter; not robust or smoked? Direct email will be fine! (... -.-) Rick Lassabe "Bayrat's Brewery" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 03:26:38 +0000 From: William Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Home brew Clyde Burns asks how to make "homebrew" In the early 1960s one of my fraternity brothers (Delta Chi) could provide quarts of a tart, highly alcoholic "beer". I can remember several interisting afternoons at his house drinking this brew with certain friends. Seems his father made homebrew in a large crock in the basement. The formula is given below; 1 can Blue Ribbon Malt (3 pounds) 5 pounds sugar (white table sugar) 1/2 cake yeast (from the grocery store) Get a 2 gallon cooking pan. Fill with 2-1/2 inches of water Add sugar and dissolve with heat. Add the malt. Boil and then pour into the crock Add cold water to make 6 gallons. Dissolve the yeast in water and add. Let fermentation proceed until just a few bubbles are rising. (As a guide pour some Coke in a glass and let it set. After about 20 minutes you will see just a few bubbles rising. When the beer is bubbling about as much as the Coke it is ready to bottle). This makes about 27 quarts of homebrew beer. Now, some 35 years later I still fondly remember that tart concoction. I've even tried to make it once. The beer wasn't as I remembered but as a college freshman I would drink about anything and it had a real kick. Clyde...I don't suggest you try this as an introduction to beer making. Go to a local homebrew shop and buy a kit. Ask some questions. Dr. Pivo...Is this anything like the SuperBeer you and the other Dr. Pivos brew?? Bill Frazier Johnson County, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 05:00:53 +0000 From: William Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Refractive Index As I was brewing a batch of Red Hawk ESB in my garage the other day, enjoying the 93F (34C) temperature, I did a little experiment. I try to follow pH and specific gravity during the sparge but things are so busy...taking the sample, cooling it in an ice bath, taking the readings and cleaning off the equipment for the next reading...that I hardly have time to take the next sample, much less keep the sparge water level above the grain bed...It's just too much trouble. However, being a former lab person I like to collect this data thinking it will tell me something. I have a hand-held refractometer that I use to measure sugar in some grapes I grow. There has been some mention about using this instrument in brewing so I included it in the data collection. To be really useful it would be nice to eliminate cooling the samples in an ice bath to a precise temperature (60F for my hydrometers) before taking the readings. For this experiment I took a refractive index (R.I.) reading of the hot sparge and compared it to a refractive index and hydrometer reading after cooling the same sample to 60F. I also collected the usual pH data but missed a couple (it was hectic and hot). Sparge R.I. R.I. Hydrometer pH Time Hot Cold Cold Cold T-zero 1.101 1.096 1.093 5.15 13 min 1.102 1.096 1.093 5.16 22 min 1.067 1.065 1.063 5.21 32 min 1.041 1.037 1.037 5.26 42 min 1.018 1.017 1.017 5.34 52 min 1.009 1.009 1.008 missing Sparge stopped at 54 minutes. Mixed 1.053 1.052 1.053 missing >From this one experiment it looks as if you could use the refractometer with hot sparge samples and stop the sparge at 1.010 to 1.015. Pretty good comparison as the sparge gets less concentrated. Narrow-range hydrometer readings are reported but they were not much different from the old broad-range hydrometer that I started off with. Also, the refractometer reads in Brix. I converted to Sp.Gr. for easy comparison. I'll probably do the experiment once or twice more to confirm these results but it looks like a time saver. On another subject...I echo some others in asking Dr. Pivo to post a Czech beer recipe along with some basic brewing guidelines. I've been trying to create a beer with that "beery" flavor for years but it still eludes me. Bill Frazier Johnson County, Kansas Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 07/09/99, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96