HOMEBREW Digest #3368 Tue 04 July 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  whole hops to oz ("Darren Robey")
  Orstrillians and other nonsense. (Brad McMahon)
  Coopers Home Brew Show (LyndonZimmermann)
  phenolic flavors ("Lyga, Daniel M.")
  Frequency of posts from   *.au   and is there an original brew ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Re: Sweet Corn as Adjunct ("Scholz, Richard")
  Woodbridge Water/RO Water/ pH Meters ("A. J.")
  Re: Glacier RO Water. Wit Brewing (james r layton)
  extract and boiling times ("Bill Clark")
  Re: Stroh's Signature (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Cream Ales (Jeff Renner)
  Aussies!?! (David Sweeney)
  Re: Aussies!?! (Some Guy)
  Beer for Diabetics (Dan Listermann)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 14:54:12 +1000 From: "Darren Robey" <drobey at awb.com.au> Subject: whole hops to oz There are very good reasons why AQIS will not let homebrewers bring in whole hops etc (or other ingredients). The importation of plant material into Australia can and does lead to the importation of plant diseases. These diseases can and do wipe out Australian industries. I've seen it happen. I might sound over cautious or just some crackpot, but I work in an Agricultural industry and I have seen well meaning people bring in diseases that are devastating. The effect might not be seen for 20 years, but it still occurs. The short answer is don't. If AQIS wont allow it, its for a reason. BTW, I have no commercial or any other reason for strongly discouraging this practice other than an interest in protecting our agriculture. Regan, I think you as a brew shop owner should know better than even to suggest in a public forum that people might circumvent Australian import quarantine legislation. Darren - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- well, since my name has been taken in vain... :) AQIS specifically states that the importation of whole hops "for homebrewing purposes" is forbidden. Commercial breweries can, after jumping through the hoops, import whole hops (and promise to keep them under lock and key, guard them with thier lives etc). About a year ago, we ordered about 5 kg of Saaz, Fuggles and EKG, which duly arrived through the post. Gleefully, we then ordered bigger amounts, which were intercepted by AQIS, and destroyed, so I speak through sad experience. For some reason, they don't worry about hop plugs, and of course, hop pellets are no problem. I know some fellow oz brewers have ordered whole hops in small quantities (250gm - 1kg) and received them, others have not been so lucky. cheers, Regan Eastern Suburbs Brewmaker 149 Clovelly Rd. Randwick, 2031 N.S.W. Australia ph/fax (02) 9399 8241 mailto:regan at esb.net.au http://www.esb.net.au Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 17:34:22 +0930 From: Brad McMahon <brad at sa.apana.org.au> Subject: Orstrillians and other nonsense. > From: tziersch at iprimus.com.au > Yep, I'm another South Australian from Adelaide. Wow ANOTHER one, we'll be running the damn show if we're not careful. > Any of you Adelaidians going to the Coopers Home Brew show next weekend ? Will be there along with Thomas H. at the Grumpy's Brewhaus stall trying to sell you many many wonderous things. > Too bad the home brew comp has the rule that you must have used a Cooopers kit > in your brew :( I havn't used one of those in years. How are they going to know? Spectrum analyse your beer? They are allowing you to add any ingredients you like including yeast, so there is no way known they will be able to determine anything. Many of Australia's brew kits use Cooper's malt anyway. > From: "Glen Pannicke" <glen at pannicke.net> > While I can't relate to HALF of the stuff you guys "down under" write, I do > find the mud slinging to be amusing as well as educational. How do ya think we feel trying to relate to you guys?? Hmmm? Australians are fiercely territorial creatures as you have gathered everyone enjoys fighting each other. The possible exception for a South Australian point of view are Western Australians, everyone else we laugh at (and they, in turn, at us)! Western Australians are just too remote, 2 to 3 days drive through a desert is just too far! > It's nice to know that homebrweing is not an American-dominated hobby > and that we share the same passions on the other side of the world. I have heard that there are an equal amount of Australian and American homebrewers in raw numbers! Even though the U.S. has over 15 times the population. This may very well be true. However, most of these Australian brewers are kit and kilo (of table sugar) brewers that have never seen the inside of a brew shop. You see, here, homebrew kits are sold in every supermarket so public awareness of brewing is very high. It is getting those brewers to go to quality homebrew stores (there are some shockers) and learn what to do is the hardest part. It is beginning to happen. The microbrewery revolution is yet to hit our shores. Once quality beer is readily available, more people will want to clone it at home and not put up with their insipid copies of macro-swill. > From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> > Hi, Lyndon, I reckon an extract wheat beer base would be the go for a pLambic. Also Lyndon, there is no excuse for not having tried a Lambic, they are available in bottle shops here you know. If you wish to do a Kriek or Frambozen, I know where I can get my hands on some imported Croatian Sour Cherry and Raspberry syrups. > AND if you Adelaide HBD lurkers want to put faces to names and beers to > faces then you can catch the "Adelaide Hills Amateur Brewers" (that's Brad > McMahon and me) at the Grumpy's Brewhaus Stall this Saturday (the 8th July) > at the Coopers Homebrew Show, Wayville Showgrounds. We'll be rostered on > from 10-2. Just to clarify, there are MORE than 2 in our club, there were about 13 or so at the last meeting including Lyndon up from the flatlands. What were YOU drinking Thomas? You lurkers better be there! We will give you entry forms for the REAL State competition. Keep Brewing, Brad McMahon, Germantown Hill Brewery, Aldgate, SA. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 20:57:11 +0930 From: LyndonZimmermann <lyndonz at senet.com.au> Subject: Coopers Home Brew Show Troy (and other Adelaideans) I believe I'll be fronting up at the Home Brew Show next weekend, I think I'm supposed to fly the flag for NAWBS, the National Amateur Wine and Beer Show and the Adelaide Amateur Winemakers and Brewers Club. It's my first year with the NAWBS committee, and I hope we can make it a good show again this year. I won't be entering any brews at home brew show because, although I brew primarily with Coopers kits I've never made a drinkable one according to the instructions. I spend too much time laughing at people who read the instructions instead of talking to their brewing mates, then explaining the error of their ways. I bottled a Coopers Pilsener a couple of days ago, looking good but was made with a lager yeast, fermented at 12 - 14C and with a final addition of Saaz hop oil. Sacrelige I know, I'll get around to real brewing eventually. Why do Coopers provide such misleading instructions on a good base? Lyndon Z Lyndon Zimmermann BE (Mech Adel) Grad Dip Bus Admin (UniSA) 24 Waverley St, Mitcham, South Australia, 5062 tel +61-8-8272 9262 mobile 0414 91 4577 fax +61-8-8172 1494 email lyndonz at senet.com.au URL http://users.senet.com.au/~lyndonz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 07:46:50 -0400 From: "Lyga, Daniel M." <lygadm at pweh.com> Subject: phenolic flavors Hello all. I brewed a Kolsch back in January, using Wyeast #2565, containing about 15% wheat malt which I am drinking now. Throughout the fermentation process, I noticed a "strange" aroma from this batch which I described as medicinal - the same flavoring is there now to a lesser degree. Several replies to my posting on the HBD at that time made mention that this might be a phenolic flavor and could be caused by poor sanitation (wild yeast) or possibly residual chlorine (insufficient rinsing). As I consider myself a novice brewer (2 extract batches, 5 all-grain), I really could not (can not?) put an example to my "phenolic" flavor. I am quite careful with my rinsing however, so I was leaning toward the wild yeast theory. I recently tried a Duvel Belgian Ale and a Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier and noticed the same flavoring as I've described in my beer. I've been doing some looking around on the web and through books, and I've read that certain strains of yeast could, by design, produce a phenolic, clove-like flavor. As I've never actually tried a Kolsch (or a Kolsch clone), I'm not sure if the beer I've created is a close interpretation. Okay, now for my questions: Would anyone else describe the Duvel and Franziskaner beers as having a phenolic flavor/taste? Are certain yeast strains expected to produce phenolic flavors? Does a high(er) percentage of wheat malt contribute to phenolic flavoring in a beer? At the time I was brewing my Kolsch, I was almost tempted to dump-it for fear that I had created a monster; the beer was so different from any others I've tasted. After drinking several of my beers and commercial examples of beer with a similar taste, the flavor has actually grown on me. Thank you in advance for any help. Dan Lyga Harwinton, CT. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 10:24:53 -0400 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Frequency of posts from *.au and is there an original brew Well, I wonder if the increased ratio of posts from *.au vs. *.com or *.edu is an indication of it being winter there and summer here. More brewing there, less here. Anyway, I was also wondering, is there a unique Australian brewed beverage? Perhaps something developed by the aborigines made of beetle juice fermented in a kangaroo pouch or something? Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 10:41:21 -0400 From: "Scholz, Richard" <RScholz at refco.com> Subject: Re: Sweet Corn as Adjunct HI all, >>Joel Plutchak asked if anyone has ever considered using sweet corn as an adjunct. Joe Kish wrote responding to the above. > I planted some super-sweet corn to be used as the adjunct in a special experimental C.A.P. as soon as the corn is ready. "Beer-Corn" I intend to dip the corn in boiling water (to blanch), then scrape it against a corn- creamer, and make several pounds of "creamed corn". I'll try mashing it with 6-row malt. This should be very interesting!! Would anybody care to comment on this subject? > I'd like to throw in my 2p. Using "Whole" corn in your grist will create a very nice corn oil slick on top of your fermenter and you will end up with beer without any head foam as the oil will kill all foam retention. You need to use de-germed corn grits/meal/flour/flakes to get around the oil problem. Also if you don't use flakes, you need to cereal mash (boil for 20-30mins) the corn the gelatinize the starch, then add to the main mash. Corn has a lot of oil in the "whole" grain. You don't see 5gallon cans of barley oil on the grocery shelf. ;^). Stick with eating the backyard corn, boil the water then pick the corn and plunge into the pot for a few minutes. This "fixes" the sugars and converts some starch. Just find grits or flakes meant for brewing and you will have a good CAP, cream ale, Pre-Pro lager. Hope this helps. Later, - ----------------------------------- Richard L Scholz Brooklyn, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1904 20:03:12 +0000 From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Woodbridge Water/RO Water/ pH Meters Assuming that Woodbridge/Dale City refers to Northern VA, the water will have alkalinity of 80 - 100 ppm and harndess in the low hundreds. Chlorides will be from less than 10 to perhaps 20 and sulfates in the 20's. This assumes that the water comes from the river or Bull Run. Who is the supplier? If it's FCWA you should be able to obtain a very complete report for the asking. If not, the FCWA report for the Ocoquon plant should give you a pretty close match. Test for chlorine/chloramine by drawing a glassfull and letting it stand over night. If the smell is gone in the morning, it was all chlorine. If it's still there, you have chloramine. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Dean's diliution of RO and tap water should produce a fine Pilsner. Harshness in these beers is often blamed on sulfate but if the RO system is doing it's job, the sulfates should be down to 7 ppm and that's plenty low enough. I'd have a word with the store that has the machine. Ask them for an anlaysis of the water they are selling. At least I would expect the machine to be equipped with a conductivity detector to let them know if there is a failure. Conductivity should be less than 10 uS. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * A few comments on Lynne's pH post. The pH of water does indeed depend on temperature and is half the value of pKw, the dissociation constant. A few values from the Rubber Handbook follow C pKw 0 14.938 5 14.727 10 14.528 15 14.340 20 14.163 25 13.995 30 13.836 40 13.542 50 13.275 60 13.034 70 12.814 80 12.613 Thus it is at 25C that the pH of water is nearly 7. Pure water as observed in the laboratory seldom has a pH near half pKw unless it has just been boiled and cooled because CO2 from the air dissolves rapidly and the carbonic acid formed lowers the pH. Even though CO2 comprises only 0.03 to 0.05% of the atmosphere it can lower pH at 25C to the mid 5's. The statement that mash pH variation in temperature is reflected by the changes in water pKw is true if interpreted properly but is a bit misleading as stated. It is not the change in the pKw of water which is responsible for the change in mash pH but rather the change in the pK's of the acids which form the mash's buffering systems. These systems have buffering capacities which completely swamp the buffering of the water itself. It is indeed frustrating that the temperature at which pH's are measured is not given especially since my understanding (Steve?) is that it is customary to specify the pH of enzyme systems at the temperature of maximum activity for them. It is safe to assume, where commercial texts are being cited, that laboratory temperature is intended unless otherwize specifically stated. Standard practice calls for collection of samples and refrigeration of them until they are brought to the lab (ASBC MOA WORT -1). At the same time it is interesting to note that ASBC calls for reporting of wort "from a practical standpoint" pH to 0.1 or "at most" 0.05 despite the ready availablity of more accurate meters. Uncorrected pH meters can measure pH accurately at any temperature provided that the meter is calibrated at the temperature at which the reading is to be made. The calibration must consider the fact that the pH of the calibration buffers changes with temperature for the same reasons that the pH of water and mash/wort do. Good buffer packaging tabulates buffer pH vs temperature. In the 150 example, if you warmed the buffers to 150, adjust the offset to read 7 (or whatever the buffer package says for 150 which will be near 7 because 7 buffer's temperature dependence is small), then go into the 4 buffer and adjust the slope to 4 point whatever the package reads (pthalate buffer pH increases with temperatur - the reverse of the usual case) the meter will read correctly in in 150 wort or mash. What you have done here is reduce the gain of the meter to compenstate that the electrode response to a unit change in pH is (273 + 66)/(273 + 25) times what it is at room temperature at 150F (66C). Alternatively, you can calibrate at room temperature and do the correction for higher temperature manually. If the microprocessor in the machine can do it, you can do it. Details can be found on this subject in the BT article I wrote on pH a few years back. In summary, there are two issues with a pH meter and hot wort. One is that the true pH of buffer systems (including just plain water) change with temperature being 0.15 to 0.3 lower at mash temperature depending on water mineral content and grist composition. Second: at a given true pH, the electrical response ("slope") of the electrode changes with temperature (its proportional to absolute temperature). It is this latter effect, and only this latter effect, that is considered by ATC algorithms. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 10:10:06 -0500 From: james r layton <blutick at juno.com> Subject: Re: Glacier RO Water. Wit Brewing Dean Fikar asked: >Has anyone used the Glacier Water(tm) brand of RO water, typically sold from >vending machines for about $0.30/gal? I use this water for all of my brewing and have never had reason to doubt its quality. If the machine is functioning correctly, the water coming out of it should have ion levels near zero. Regarding the harsh bitterness in your Bohemian pilsner, old hops may be a factor. I have yet to buy whole Saaz hops that were really fresh. I took a quick look at Fix's AOBT, thought I remembered him writing that old hops => harsh bitterness. I didn't find exactly that, but I did find where high wort pH => harsh bitterness. That might be a factor considering your grain bill (all pils malt?) and mash water (very low Ca) may not settle in the usual pH 5.2 range. Graham Sanders wrote: >No One has come back on my Wit Question. I have a temperature compensating >ph meter and I want to do a lactic rest for a day with a small amount of >grain and then add to the main mash. Can anyone tell me what ph's I should >be aiming for at all the stages. All I can recall is that the wort should >be about 4.9 at the start of the boil. Is that correct? Sorry, I can't help you with that technique. Sour mashing is an area that I have no desire to explore. If it were me, I'd skip the mash souring as a way of obtaining the desired acidity and either (1) add lactobacillus delbrukii from a pure culture after the primary fermentation, or (2) add 88% lactic acid to taste at packaging. Method 1 approximates the traditional practice, method 2 is a modern shortcut that works well. I'm not trying to talk you out of doing anything Graham, just offering my take on it. BTW, I can't help but wonder where you read or heard about mash souring in connection with wit brewing. Please tell. I have but one book in my tiny library which has any significant information on traditional wit brewing practice, that being Belgian Ale by Pierre Rajotte. It has a fascinating description of one old mash schedule for making wit. I've tried and tried to make sense of it, drawing diagrams with labels and arrows in a vain attempt to keep track of where each portion of the mash is at each stage of the process. I can only conclude that Rajotte missed writing something down. It is obvious, however, that this mash is very similar to the turbid mash tecniques I have read about in connection with lambic brewing. There is no mash souring, the bacteria get started in the wort after the boil. Jim Layton Howe, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 12:54:44 -0500 From: "Bill Clark" <wrclark at smokinbrews.com> Subject: extract and boiling times This is my understanding on the need or need not to boil extract. Please point out any errors. This information comes from reading home brew books and literature from extract manufacturers. First of all extract is made by vacuum evaportation, not boiling. Unhopped extract goes through the vacuum to be condensed and that is it. It is not boiled. After packaging it is pasteurized, however, except for drums. For this reason unhopped extract should be boiled. I recommend at least 45 minutes to drive off the precursors to DMS. I believe Dave Burley posted on boiling and DMS a while back. Hopped extract may or may not have gone through the boiling process. I rely on the directions on the can for boiling times (not sugar additions!!). Some manufacturers add iso-hop extracts to the kit to give bitterness and those kits probably need to be boiled for a while. Other kits add just hops, so I believe that those ones have gone through at least some boiling in the process. I think the instructions on the Mountmellick cans say longer boiling times will result in a more bitter beer, so I am assuming that un-isomerized hop extracts have been added. Over-boiling kits that recommend either no or a short boiling time is only going to drive off the aroma and flavor hops, so those need to be added bake in. And I have put some of this information to practice by brewing a few kits according to the directions on the can. The results were actually pretty good. Specifically I've brewed up a couple of Coopers kits and an Edme with about 5 minutes and 15 mintues of boiling respectively (the Edme kit did recommend 15 minutes of boiling while the Cooper's stated no boiling required). The extract manufacturers have at least started putting expiration dates on the cans and more information (IBU OG etc.), so perhaps they are also making these extracts so that really all the boiling etc. has been done and boiling again is just overkill. If they could only include better packs of dry yeast in suitable amounts! Also, I've made a few beers with bulging Mountmellick cans with no noticeable defects. My uderstanding is that the bulging cans were the results of problems with their canning equipment, not their sanitation processes. Bill Clark Lake Superior Smokin' Brews, Inc. 320 East Superior Street Duluth, MN 55802 wrclark at smokinbrews.com homebrew at smokinbrews.com www.smokinbrews.com 800-720-0013 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 14:33:28 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Stroh's Signature In Homebrew Digest #3365 (June 30, 2000), Bob Hall <nap_aca_bh at nwoca.org> asks: >Can anyone out there give a >little background on Signature, history, clone, etc. Sroh's brewers and historian Peter Blum spoke at the NHC last weekend in Livonia and touched on this beer. He was in charge of its development and it was clearly a labor of love. AS I recall, it was a nice beer but still too tame for my tastes. Maltier and richer than a standard American lager, with nice flavoring hops, but nothing to write home about. I can't remember exactly how Peter used the simile of "kissing your sister" that Fred related, but I think it may have been more regarding light beers than beers other than Stroh's. Someone else who was there may remember better. He certainly was an entertaining speaker, especially for those of us interested in the history of beer. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 14:27:10 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: TEMPORARY WATER HARDNESS "Hill, Steve" <SHill at advanta.com> writes >I just moved into a house that has VERY hard well water. Lets just say that >when I boil a pot of water for pasta --- there is a nice lime deposit on the >bottom when finished. <snip> >Do I need to then rack off the boiled but cooled water before I heat it >again for brew day? If I heat up the water again while it is still sitting >on the sediment, will this re-dissolve it into the water? You should actually decant it off the precipitate as soon as it settles. As it cools, two things will happen. First, calcium carbonate, or CaCO3, which is what your sediment is, is actually more soluble in cold water, as I understand it. Secondly, as it cools, CO2 will redissolve from the atmosphere and make more CaCO3 dissolve back in. When my water has been boiling vigorously for a few minutes, I turn off the heat and give it a stir until it's whirlpooling, then put a lid on it. The ppt. is usually piled up in a cone in the center ten minutes later or so. Because this removes Ca++ that is necessary for mashing, you need to add it back as CaCl2 (calcium chloride) or CaSO4 (calcium sulfate, or gypsum). I prefer CaCl2 for lagers and mild ales, CaSO4 for bitter ales. Sometimes I add my calcium salts before boiling as this helps remove more alkalinity, but this has the disadvantage of leaving more Mg+. If you boiled it, it wouldn't go back into solution but it would roil the precipitate up and you'd need to let it settle again before decanting, which you do need to do. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 14:18:02 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Cream Ales In Homebrew Digest #3367 (July 03, 2000), tkneall <tkneall at erols.com> >Also, I've been researching cream ales. I've read quite a bit, >including a couple older references. I'm looking for more of it's >history and how it's evolved into what it is right now. I'm also >looking for tasting suggestions. I've had Little Kings, Genessee, and a >few others. Read Ben Jankowski's article in May/June 1999 Brewing Techniques (I think the last issue or nearly so). Unfortunately, this article has not made it one-line, but someone just posted a source for back issues for sale. Cream ale evolved when late Nineteenth century ale brewers, seeing their sales drop as the public's taste changed to pale, clear, effervescent lagers, but lacking refrigeration and aging facilities, developed a beer brewed like a pilsner, but fermented as an ale. These were called "present use," "sparkling," "Brilliant" or "cream" ales, and they have evolved into today's cream ales just as classic American pilsners evolved, but the few remaining cream ales today bear only a fleeting resemblance to their ancestors. For a great modern cream ale, use about 25% flaked corn, perhaps 5-10% Carapils, the balance 6-row for authenticity or 2-row if you prefer, mash at 155F, 1.048-1.052, hop to 15 IBU with Cluster for bitterness for authenticity, or another neutral hop, some German Hallertauer or US Ultra for FWH and/or flavor, ferment with the original Ballantine ale yeast (Chico/American/West Coast), or WhiteLab's East Coast, or another yeast that isn't too British in character. I had very good luck recently with Wyeast 1098, which certainly is British. I suspect that White Lab's clean Kolsch would be a good choice (actually would make a good pseudo lager). Danstar's Windsor would make a richer ale, if you like it lean, try Nottingham, but I didn't like it when I tried it in my cream ale derivitive McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale this spring. Too lean and dry for may tastes. Boost this recipe up to 30-40 IBU and 1.052-1.056 and you'll get what Paul Shick calls an "unfortunate acronymn," CACA, or classic American cream ale, the way it was brewed 100 years ago. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 13:55:26 -0500 From: David Sweeney <David at studentlife.tamu.edu> Subject: Aussies!?! Aussies do carry on, don't they? David Sweeney Texas A&M University david at studentlife.tamu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 15:37:00 -0400 (EDT) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Re: Aussies!?! Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... > Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 13:55:26 -0500 > From: David Sweeney <David at studentlife.tamu.edu> > Subject: Aussies!?! > > Aussies do carry on, don't they? > > David Sweeney > Texas A&M University > david at studentlife.tamu.edu Yeah! You'd think they'd learn the delicate self-control displayed by Aggies when speaking of Longhorns. Gig 'em... - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 15:45:11 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Beer for Diabetics Wimpy48124 at aol.com ( can we see a name that does not look funny ) aske about beers for diabetics. My old brewing partner turn out type II disbetic. His doctor told him to not drink beer. If he must have alcohol, he should drink dry wine or booze. This seem to tell me that it was the residual sugar that the Doc was worried about. I thought that a rye only beer with a long low conversion whose final gravity was further cut with corn sugar would be an approach to a dry beer. Rye malt leaves a sliminess that should leave a bit of body. I brewed 5 gallons with only 3 lbs of rye, a half pound of rice hulls mashed six hours at 145'F. 1.5 lbs of corn sugar was added to the boil. 2 oz EKG for bitter, .5 oz EKG the last 5 min and another .5 for seeping 5 min. The OG was 1.029 and the FG, 1.004. It was a nice medium body brew with the slight earthiness that rye gives. I liked it so much that I made another for myself. I never could get a straight answer from anyone about whether or not this is the right approach for type 2 diabetics. His wife about bit my head off when he drank a whole six-pack one night. Dan Listermann 72723.1797 at compuserve.com dan at listermann.com Return to table of contents
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