HOMEBREW Digest #3867 Sat 16 February 2002

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  campden tablets and lemon juice? (Robert Marshall)
  barley growing ("Todd M. Snyder")
  Homebrew packaging ("Ray Daniels")
  Water Chemicals (mohrstrom)
  Beer terminology ("Joel Plutchak")
  Bottle Question (Joe Screnock)
  Tips for Non-Sanctioned Contest/Exhibit ("Bob Hall")
  high diacetyl down under (Alan Meeker)
  Aussie diacetyl (Alan Meeker)
  RE: cascase to clean kegs. (Christopher Chow)
  RIMS PIDs and SSRs (Tony Verhulst)
  Yates Hangin' around, Now That the Aussies have dumped him!!! ("Fred Kingston")
  RE: beer language, blatant plug, and airlocks (Brian Lundeen)
  Water Chemicals/PID controllers (AJ)
  Details on MCAB 4, Cleveland, April 12-13 (Paul Shick)
  Attenuation Issues? ("Paul Greenland")
  RE: Subject: RIMS PIDs and SSRs (Ronald La Borde)
  rye (Spencer W Thomas)
  beer from dirt/yield ("Dave Sapsis")
  Fermentation vessel changes (Al Klein)
  cooling 10 gallons ("Joel Halpine")
  Stupid Brewer Fun (Kevin Elsken)
  Color of iodophor solution (Kevin Elsken)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 21:42:51 -0800 (PST) From: Robert Marshall <robertjm1 at yahoo.com> Subject: campden tablets and lemon juice? Hi all, I plan to make some hard lemonade. Was wondering if I should use a Campden tablet to sulfite the juice, or not. Have collected just shy of 2 gallons of juice, strained of most of the pulp. Thoughts? Robert Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:50:23 -0500 From: "Todd M. Snyder" <tmsnyder at buffalo.edu> Subject: barley growing Hi Randy, I meant no offense to your green thumb, I'm sure you could get more yield than a typical barley farmer. I was only trying to put a _ball_park_number_ on growing area needed to yield 50 lbs of grain, and was surprised to learn that it's only on the order of 1000 ft^2. Very do-able by hand, no need for the harvestor I was hoping to get rid of. Just out of curiosity, has anyone here ever tried floor malting a few hundred pounds of barley? Any ideas for how you would kiln small batches of malt like that? Maybe 50 lbs at a time? Todd Snyder <<I have to question his assumption that backyard growing would give smaller yields. I've been gardening for over 25 years, and I know that backyard gardeners can get far better yields than farmers>> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:14:38 -0600 From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net> Subject: Homebrew packaging Patrick Brochu asks about options for homebrew packaging. I would recommend that you get a copy of the Sept-Oct 2001 issue of Zymurgy which was devoted to packaging issues and covered mini-kegs, party pigs and corny kegs in addition to bottling and counter-pressure filling of bottles. Hope that helps. Ray Daniels - [197.8, 264.2] Apparent Rennerian Editor, Zymurgy & The New Brewer Director, Brewers Publications ray at aob.org 773-665-1300 Call Customer Service at 888-822-6273 to subscribe or order individual magazines. For more information, see www.beertown.org Don't Miss: Real Ale Festival - Feb 27 - March 2, 2002 - Chicago, IL www.realalefestival.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:22:16 -0500 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: Water Chemicals Frank J. Russo asks: > Anyone know where I might be able to > procure these items? Got the name of a > good chem. supply house? Frank - try: www.cynmar.com They even have a section targeted at home/pub/micro brewers. Get the "big" catalog, though. More nifty toys (especially brushes - I *like* brushes ...), and sometimes better prices. Also, does anyone have a spreadsheet for calculating the acid additions to compensate for temporary carbonate hardness? Also also, can anyone suggest a likely local source for bulk (read "cheap") food grade phosphoric acid, such as a restaurant supply, and what common name would these folks recognize? The aforementioned Cynmar has it, but I'd prefer to dodge the Hazardous Material fee. Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 14:27:09 +0000 From: "Joel Plutchak" <plutchak at hotmail.com> Subject: Beer terminology Steve Alexander wrote: >Joel Plutchak wrote ... re Bob Klein ... >> people dump on him not for using "fanciful" >>language or winespeak, but for the descriptions themselves. >An honest opinion, but I disagree. The comments against Mr.Klein encompass >both bad descriptions but primarily his use of terms in describing beer. ... and then goes on to use a single example somebody else contributed. Interesting debating technique. Well, Steve, you admitted not being familiar with Klein's body of work. I, unfortunately, am. The guy's a hack, plain and simple. (Makes good money at it, though.) On a more serious note, a lot of what I do these days when I'm on the clock involves syntactic and semantic translation of protocols and data (metadata, actually) between different repositories. The syntactic part is generally much easier, because even within the same community (e.g., geology, atmospheric science, geology, botany) they can use the same term for different things different units for the same piece of data, etc. In order for people even within a discrete community to be able to communicate clearly they need a shared language. What some have described asboring and lifeless language used to describe beer (presumably by BJCP judges in competition) is as close as we get to having a shared language. Adding in all kinds of descriptors that mean different things to different people is a step in the wrong direction if we want to foster clear communication. Leave it for the coffee table book and beer-a-day calendar writers. IMprofessionalO. Joel PlutchakPounding data and beer in East-central Illinois Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:05:39 -0600 From: Joe Screnock <jscren at yahoo.com> Subject: Bottle Question Hello to all of you. I've been on this list for over a year but have not yet seen the need to post. Until now. Having recently joined the AHA, I received my "welcome packet" which included a flyer for a company selling flip-top style bottles. The prices listed were considerably less than what I have been seeing at the homebrew supply stores. Upon visiting their web-site, I found out they also carry a limited supply of used bottles for quite a bit less than their new bottles. When placing my order, I found that the shipping (from the west coast) would be double the price of the bottles themselves. As SWMBO is an accountant, I was reminded that I could buy Grolsch in the local supermarket for almost the same price, thereby getting "free" beer (my absolute favorite kind, btw) with my bottles. Before I do that, I'd rather find another cheap supplier of flip-top bottles that is closer to home. In addition, I have a few bottles already (Grolsch makes good birthday-christmas-valentine's presents) but no good case to put them in. I just squeeze 'em in with my regular bottles, but I can only fit about 4 in each case. Where can I get cases for these (the west coast supplier sells them, but again, shipping would kill me)? I also have a couple larger "champagne" size bottles (New Glarus Brewing company supplies these bottles with their Award Winning New Glarus Belgian Red") and they are too tall to fit in the regular beer cases. Any ideas here? It's been a fun year getting into homebrewing. I'm glad there is a forum like this for us to exchange ideas. I have gleaned so much from this list and want to thank you all for participating, and for the list janitors for making it such a hassle-free list. This is the most on-topic list I have ever seen. Take care and God bless. Joe Screnock Morrison, IL [6608.6, 4.6] (the long way 'round) [316.8, 265.9] (more directly) "Those who agree with us may not be correct, but we admire their astuteness." - Cullen Hightower Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:13:03 -0500 From: "Bob Hall" <rallenhall at hotmail.com> Subject: Tips for Non-Sanctioned Contest/Exhibit An organizer for the Napoleon Fall Festival has asked me to consider developing a home brew contest in celebration of the areas German heritage (we even have a local village called New Bavaria). There are a few fellows locally that brew, but no formal club. I'd be surprised if there are more than 20 entries from half-a-dozen brewers. I've downloaded some forms and items from AHA, but would like the input from others who may have organized a small, informal competition/exhibition ..... all tips and advice welcomed. Thanks in advance. Bob Hall, Napoleon, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:04:05 -0500 From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: high diacetyl down under Phil, you ask about the large amount of diacetyl present in your fast-fermenting lager. I believe you are a victim of the dreaded "Reverse Coriolus Versicolor Diacetyl Effect" an all too common occurrence in Southern Hemisphere fermentations. This problem is seen when down under brewers, such as yourself, attempt a fermentation using yeast that originated in the Northern hemisphere. Over the centuries, these Northern yeast have evolved and adapted to the minute pull of the Earth's rotation, such that their cells become compartmentalized. This is easily demonstrated via electron microscopy, where one sees an intracellular polarization/partitioning between the diacetyl generating enzymes localized on the left side of the cell, and the diacetyl reducing enzymes located on the right side of the cell. Here in the Northern hemisphere, the yeast naturally orient themselves with the Coriolus flow, such that the diacetyl produced on the left is forced to the right side of the cell, where it is metabolized. In your case, the Coriolus force is in the /opposite/ direction, thus the diacetyl produced inside the cell is forced further left, /away from/ the reductive enzymes. The diacetyl then accumulates along the cell wall on the left side, and eventually diffuses out into the beer. Normally the yeast will re-utilize diacetyl that does get into the fermenting beer (the well-known "dactyl rest"), but, here again, you run into a Coriolus problem. It turns out that all the diacetyl import pumps on the yeast cell surface are located on the /left/ side of the cell, so even if the yeast does succeed in transporting the diacetyl into the cell, you run into the same problem as before, namely that all the reductive enzymes are on the other side of the cell, against the Coriolus flow. There are three possible solutions to your problem. First, you could re-pitch with an Aussie lager yeast which will then be able to properly reduce the diacetyl. Second, you could transport the fermenting beer across the equator, where the yeast, now properly Coriolus orientated, will finish the ferment. Lastly, if you have some engineering skill, you could rig up some sort of rotating platform to counteract the Southern hemisphere's Coriolus effect. This is probably the best option as it will allow you, in the future, to brew with any Northern strain without further trouble. -Alan Meeker Baltimore, MD Earth's Northern Rennerian hemisphere Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:20:24 -0500 From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: Aussie diacetyl But seriously Phil... It is likely that your diacetyl is due to the vigorous yeast activity you described, especially if, as is likely, you had a lot of yeast cell growth. Unpleasant alternatives include mutated yeast that over-produces diacetyl (respiratory deficient, so-called "petite" mutants are one common example), or an infection with a diacetyl-producing bacteria. Also, are you sure your ferment didn't get too warm, did you actually take temperature measurements /of the fermenting wort/ during the two days of strong activity?? At any rate, my guess would be that what you got was the result of fast yeast growth. Perform a diacetyl rest and all should be well. You may want to rouse the yeast occasionally, given the settling behavior you described. Let us know how it turns out! -Alan Meeker Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:53:20 -0500 From: Christopher Chow <theassman6 at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: cascase to clean kegs. i checked out "cascade complete" and it DOES have chlorine in it. Also I have a box of "sams club" generic cascade powder, and it also has the Cl How much damage will SS kegs get with acute exposure to cascasde w/ Chlorine? >Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 08:32:47 -0500 >From: "Walter H. Lewis III" <wlewis at alliedlogistics.com> >Subject: RE: 10 gal soda keg modification help (HOW DOES COKE CLEAN THEIR >KEGS?) > > >Several years ago I began recycling soda kegs for a lemonade business I >had. During that time I began doing business with a tank recycling >company in TN. They bought used/damaged kegs/tanks from soda cmpanies, >reconditioned them and sold them cheep! > > >In working with them over several years, they gave me THEIR secret. > > >Pour 1/2 C Cascade Dishwasher detergent into Keg > > >Fill with HOT Water > > >Seal Lid > > >Shake to insure that the Cascade is desolved > > >Open Popets to expose them to the solution > > >Let sit till cool > > >Rinse WELL > > >They told me it EVEN removes rootbeer flavor from the gaskets!! > > >I tried it, it works! > > >Some people may be concerned with bleach in the Cascade. In discussion >with CASCADE, I was told that in all but ONE -- I forget which one -- >the "bleaching" agent is oxygen. Stick with regular cascade and you >should have no chlorine exposure. > > >Walt Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:01:42 -0500 From: Tony Verhulst <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: RIMS PIDs and SSRs Larry Maxwell asks: >>In other words, do I use the output of the internal SSR to >>control the external SSR? Al Klein resonds >There are ways of doing it all solid state, but the easiest way is a >mechanical relay with a 110 volt AC coil and contacts that can handle >your heater (20 amp contacts at least). With the low price of SSRs, I could not recommend anyone using mechanical relays given that the solid state version is much more reliable, IMHO, and just as easy. Like Bill Freeman (HOMEBREW Digest #3866), I've had very good results using 2 25 amp SSRs to control a 4500 watt heater. See http://www/world.std.com/~verhulst/RIMS/panel.htm. Tony Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:10:20 -0500 From: "Fred Kingston" <fred at kingstonco.com> Subject: Yates Hangin' around, Now That the Aussies have dumped him!!! Phil Yates says..... "the only non Australian HBD folk to visit Burradoo are Ray Kruse" You know where he is.... we talk to him every day, you're just too snooty to show up... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:33:59 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: beer language, blatant plug, and airlocks Steve Alexander writes: > Written descriptions of beer ingredient flavors and aromas > are usually pretty bad. Only AlK's book and a few other rare > sources take a serious stab at competent descriptions. > We should do better. As one of those grunters, I can only admire people that can write descriptively about beer. Perhaps Klein is a bit over the top, but after picking it up (yes, I actually paid for it, not had it thrust upon me as a Xmas present, to be viewed with the same disdain as Grandma's annual knitted rainbow gloves with 6 fingers), I don't see what the big fuss is about. As I've said, I started out in the wine world, and maybe I'm just used to this kind of stuff. I don't pretend to have the breadth or depth of knowledge about commercial beers that Joel, for example, has, and if Joel thinks something Klein says is just plain, flat out, poorly researched wrong, I have no problem with that. However, as one who has tried to put my aroma and taste sensations into words, I can tell you, it is no easy task. There are complexities and nuances, and simple analogies often don't do them justice. IMO, Klein at least attempts to convey some of that complexity in his writing. I think what would be very educational would be to take some very specific examples from Klein, and instead of just running them down as hilarious fancy-speak, give a detailed analysis of what it is that is actually wrong. Use your own experience with that beer and tell us how you would describe it to convey the essence of that beer. And tell us why your way of describing it is superior to Klein's. I'm not directing this at anyone in particular, and perhaps this is a poor forum for this type of thing. Maybe this would be better done in a more real-time environment such as rec.food.drink.beer, although they are such a foul-tempered little clique I don't think I will be the one to bring it up there. ;-) And yes, I would love better descriptions of what malts and hops contribute to flavour and aroma. I guess as you become more experienced, you develop a good feel for what they provide, but as a still relatively inexperienced brewer, I can only guess. For example, if Saaz is "spicy", what type of spice? Hmmm*, maybe we should get Klein into homebrewing so he can write 365 days of Brewing Ingredients. ;-) * Before anyone takes me to task for the number of m's in hmmm, I firmly believe in following the rule of thumb, "Three shall be the count, and the count shall be three. Four is right out". Also works well for aaargh, aieee, and of course, holy hand grenades. Patrick Brochu asks: > Any known good place where I can > order supplies for homebrew in Canada (or get them myself in > Ottawa, Ontario)? 30 howling savages agree... Buy from Paddock Wood. NAJASCYYY. Pete Calinski writes: > Back to airlocks and waaiit a minute. If airlocks pass air > from "in" to "out" why don't they pass it from "out" to "in"? > They are not "diodes", they should be bi-directional. I > just tried one of mine. One with six "globes". I had to suck > pretty hard on the "in the fermenter" end to get any water to > come through. The 6-globe is just an artistic improvement on my favorite, the twin bubble. That's why I like them, it is very hard to get suck back. The problem lies mainly with the IMO poorly designed 3-piece airlock, or as I like to call it, the "dancing hats". If you fill one of these up to the recommended fill line, there is insufficient volume inside the hat to accommodate the liquid without pulling some in when there is greater pressure from outside. The available volume outside the hat(where the liquid normally resides while under positive pressure from CO2 production) can hold the liquid without spilling over, and let the gas bubble through. You have to find that very narrow range of liquid volume so that it still maintains a seal, but won't get pulled in. Some people have told me they prefer them because they are easier to clean if some krausen gets up into them. I have had no problem cleaning out a gunked-up twin-bubble with a soak in PBW solution. Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing (occasionally) and babbling (often) at [314,829] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:42:46 +0000 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Water Chemicals/PID controllers Adequate water adjustments can be done with calcium sulfate, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, sodium bicarbonate, calcium chloride and calcium carbonate. All of these are readily available at pharmacy, super market or homebrewing shop. Magnesium carbonate can be a help in some cases but the results obtained using it are not dramatically different from what you get with out it. By adequate I mean that you can get pretty close to any realizeable water profile using just these salts. This is an important point because many of the city profiles one finds in books and magazines are not realizeable (i.e. to have the ion contents advertized they would have to have pH's that are not within the range that you would consider for your brewing water.) Getting chemicals is tough these days. Most of the big suppliers (Fisher, Spectrum, Cole Parmer...) don't even want to talk to you unless you are a company, a university or a teacher. Resellers may. Your background as a chemist may help both in convincing someone to sell to you and in coming up with ways of getting what you want. For example, pickling lime (super market) will raise the pH of a solution of epsom salts high enough that magnesium hydroxide gel forms. Separate this resuspend and dissolve by bubbling CO2 thru and the result is essentially magnesium bicarbonate. BTW an advantage of using stuff you buy at the drug store, home brew store, supermarket or water treatment supply comoany is that it is fit to consume. If you buy chemicals elsewhere you have to make the decision as to whether you must have FCC or USP or are willing to put other grades into your beer (and subsequently self). WRT to PID controllers: Depeding on the model of controller you have there may be multiple options available for output i.e. relay, SSR drive, switched AC, 4-20ma, 0-5V. Sounds as if you have a unit with the SSR built in so that your output is 1 amp line. You might investigate swapping this output module for an SSR drive module or, if this is not possible buy one of those little DC supplies from Radio Shack, drive that from the SSR in the controller and use the DC from the power supply to drive the larger SSR. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 12:50:20 -0600 From: Paul Shick <shick at jcu.edu> Subject: Details on MCAB 4, Cleveland, April 12-13 Hi all, Here's a short summary of the festivities for the upcoming MCAB 4: The Fourth Annual Masters Championships of Amateur Brewing will be held in Cleveland on Friday and Saturday, April 12 and 13, 2002, at the Renaissance Hotel and Great Lakes Brewing Company. The local arrangements are being handled by a consortium of members of the Society of Northeast Ohio Brewers (SNOBs) and the Society of Akron Area Zymurgists (SAAZ). We'll have more details on the conference and competition in the weeks to come, but we wanted to get as much information out to the homebrewing community as possible at this time. If you have any questions, feel free to email Karl Weeber (overall organizer, beersnob1 at yahoo.com), Chuck Bernard (competition/judging, bernardch at mindspring.com) or me (Paul Shick, conference organizer, shick at jcu.edu). Updates will be posted regularly at the MCAB web site: hbd.org/mcab. We're planning to cover as much of our expenses as possible from donations from sponsors, so we hope to get by with a registration charge of about $40-50, which will include all the conference and banquet, etc. Again, we'll have more details soon. Speakers (confirmed as of 2/14/02.) We'll have detailed titles and abstracts later. Steve Alexander (HBD regular, Society of Akron Area Zymurgists) Dick Cantwell (Elysian Brewing, coauthor of Barley Wine volume) A.J. DeLange (Zeta Associates, HBD regular) Alan Meeker (Johns Hopkins University, HBD regular) Dave Miller (Blackstone Brewpub, author of numerous brewing books) Chuck Skypeck (Boscos Brewing) Gordon Strong (Dayton Regional Amateur Ferm. Tech's, BJCP) Andy Tveekrem (Frederick Brewing) Chris White (White Labs) The topics to be covered include stone beer, sanitation, yeast and dubbels. We've arranged with the Association of Brewers to get reduced rates at the Cleveland Renaissance Hotel, an easy (and cheap) light rail train ride from the airport. See the web site for how to get this discount. Judging will take place at the hotel on Friday evening and at the conference site, the "Tasting Room" at Great Lakes Brewing Company's new brew house, on Saturday. A formal call for judges will follow on JudgeNet. A detailed schedule can be found on the hbd.org/mcab website, along with practically anything else you might want to know. Paul Shick Cleveland Hts, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:16:28 -0700 From: "Paul Greenland" <paul.greenland at onsemi.com> Subject: Attenuation Issues? I have just brewed 10 gallons of "smoky London Porter" an all grain batch. I pitched the yeast [1+ pint London ESB 1968 from local brewery] into the wort at 24 deg C and it fermented briskly for a couple of days. I use a stainless cylindro-conical fermenter and dumped the trub and about 2 pints of beautiful yeast after the fermentation had subsided. The OG was 1060, the new gravity is 1018, did I dump the yeast too early? Should I re-pitch? or are there just some unfermentable dextrins raising the gravity? I tasted the hydrometer sample, quite nice, good body, over-hopped [oops!, screwed up the hop utilization scaling the recipe]. Many thanks, Paul Greenland. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:32:28 -0800 (PST) From: Ronald La Borde <pivoron at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Subject: RIMS PIDs and SSRs Larry Maxwell asks: >I recently bought a PID controller with a solid-state relay >(SSR) output from Omega Eng'g, but failed to read the >spec sheet closely enough, which noted that the SSR >handles only 1A max. I am guessing what I need is >another (external) SSR that handles 20A or so to control >my 1500 W heater element (at 120 V). Is this correct? >In other words, do I use the output of the internal SSR to >control the external SSR? Seems logical, but before I >buy one I wanted to ask those in the know. Since I hate to draw in ASCII text, I will attempt to verbally describe what you need. The PID can handle a maximum of 1A, however it will probably operate with a load much smaller than 1A. You need to know or guess at the minumum or low end of the operating current. Too little current (or too high a resistance load) and the PID may fail to cycle on/off. I will assume the PID will work nicely with a load current of .1A. Now you can use a transformer to supply the PID circuit with 12 volts AC, or you can just not use a transformer and use 120 volts directly. You would need a load that can handle 12 watts (120V x .1A = 12 watts), good engineering suggests about a 25 watt ability. So you wire up the PID to a 120V AC circuit with load resistance that will cause a .1 ampere current. Using I=E/R, 120/.1=1200 ohms. So you go on a hunt for a 25 watt 1200 ohm resistor. Actually you look for a 1000 ohm and a 200 ohm resistor that you wire in series. You do this so that you can obtain a voltage accross the 200 ohm resistor to drive your SSR which will operate with around 3 to 32 volts DC ( E=I*R, so .1*200=20 volts). This may sound complicated, but it is really not so, only 2 resistors and a diode bridge. You connect a full wave diode bridge accross the 200 ohm resistor and the output of the bridge will be 20 volts rectified AC. Actually more than 20 volts because the AC being RMS 120 volts will actually peak at 1.414 times 20 or 28.2 volts peak. This is connected to the large SSR as the control signal. If it bothers you that the signal is not DC, but rectified pulses, go ahead and place a capacitor accross the SSR input terminals and you will now have DC. So there you are -- happy brewing! Ron Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie Louisiana, New Orleans is the subberb of Metairie Louisiana pivoron at yahoo.com www.hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 14:09:16 -0500 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: rye I was reading an old Malt Advocate the other day, and chanced on an interview with Fritz Maytag about their Rye Whiskey. He related an amusing anecdote: Q: Now that you've been essentially brewing a pre-whiskey beer with rye, is there any chance you might brew an all-rye malt beer? A: I don't rule out anything, but it doesn't particularly interest me. One of the amusing things that happened during this rye whiskey project was that we were keeping it secret, and we succeeded. But for some strange reason, some of arch-competitors up in the Northwest, who buy from the same maltster that we often buy from, began to brew rye beers around this time. We've long suspected that they were led down the garden path by certain information that they shouldn't have gotten. It amused us to see the rye beers come and go right around that time. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 23:36:33 -0800 From: "Dave Sapsis" <dsapsis at earthlink.net> Subject: beer from dirt/yield Based on crops from my back yard, where I have been growing barley for three seasons, my dry seed yields have been on the order of .03 pounds/ft^2 -- thus 100 sq. foot of area yields 3 pounds of seed barley. Some of this reduction in yield no doubt has been due to edge induced lodging (small eccentric-shaped beds typically have lots of edge and hence high lodging) unknown seed variety, less than optimal planting density, and a somewhat haphazard threshing technique. My attempts at malting have significantly reduced further the *malt* yield from the backyard. However, my quest for beer from the backyard continues. Steve Alexander and I are acquiring some solid 2-row malting seed (B1202 for those interested), I know optimal planting density now (~25 corns/ft^2), and hope to expand my planting area. The haphazard threshing will no doubt continue. I'm gonna work on my malting techniques with leftover seed from the sack ;-0 good gardening, - --dave, sacramento Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 19:53:45 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: Fermentation vessel changes On Fri, 15 Feb 2002 00:10:08 -0500, in rec.crafts.brewing you wrote: >Michael T. Bell is concerned with: >Will the brass and/or copper on the insider of the keg affect the >fermentation at all? Any other thoughts/concerns? Since at least some brew pubs ferment in copper, it would appear that copper doesn't cause a problem in fermenters. - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:20:22 -0600 From: "Joel Halpine" <jhalpine at esu4.org> Subject: cooling 10 gallons Sorry, I think a draft of this was sent before it was finished. I recently found a huge SS pot with a threaded nipple at the bottom at a junkyard. After I have it checked by a welder to be sure the nipple weld is food safe (aren't there some welds that are not food safe?), I will be preparing to occasionally brew 10 gallon batches. I still need the mast tun, and I could ask what is recommended, SS or cooler (my 5 gallon batches are all done with a 5 gallon gott cooler--should have bought bigger). However, what I really want to know is how to cool that much wort. I currently use an immersion chiller I made from wrapping copper pipe around a pot, and it cools to 70 F in 15-20 min, but I think I may need to use a counterflow chiller to get my cooling done with a 10 gallon batch. I am sure many of you have experimented, and I would like to draw from your experiences. How long and what diameter copper do you use? I see directions with varying lengths. I suppose a significant factor would be the ground water temp. If I could gather info on what those of you out there are using, and your geography (or your cold water temp) I could probably figure it out from there. I was going to delay this message until I took a home cold water temp, but since I accidentally sent a preview, I will post now. Joel Halpine Lincoln, NE (Ed: since this "preview" was essentially this entire note less two lines, the Janitors have deleted it. Folks: PLEASE do not delete your "receipts" from the HBD server until AFTER your article has published. Thanks.) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 23:36:06 -0500 From: Kevin Elsken <k.elsken at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Stupid Brewer Fun I was getting ready to transfer a recently brewed mild ale from the plastic primary into a corny keg secondary. Being one of those brewers that finds no fun in siphoning, I hit upon an excellent idea. I connected the siphon tubing from the racking cane to the "beer out" fitting on the keg, and then put a short piece of tubing on the "gas in" fitting. The idea was to close the keg, suck on the gas out line, and voila, beer transferred, no siphoning. Mental note - a mouthful of carbon dioxide gas lacks the fine taste of a well brewed ale. Actually all went fairly well (luckily lung power is one thing the Lord saw fit to give me) and after a bit the siphon went well. I think a nice hand vacuum pump might be just the trick here. I was thinking they make those things for automotive applications such as bleeding brakes or sucking oil out of the differential. Another suggestion for the siphon challenged. Kevin Elsken Little Boy Brewery North Strabane, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 23:42:17 -0500 From: Kevin Elsken <k.elsken at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Color of iodophor solution I bought some iodine test papers the other day and after conducting said test it looked like my sanitizing solution had all the power of Monongahela river water. My solution was a light amber color. In the past I have mixed up my sanitizing solution to get a 12.5 ppm iodine level, and the color was a light amber, or so I thought. Anyway, after seeing my solution was weak (some say I was born a few PPM short...), I added more iodine till the test paper showed a nominal 12.5 ppm level. Now the solution is more the color of apple cider. What gives? Should it be that dark, or are the test papers unreliable? Perhaps they are made by the same people who make the iodophor ;-)... Kevin Elsken Little Boy Brewery North Strabane, PA Return to table of contents
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