HOMEBREW Digest #4201 Fri 21 March 2003

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Gump re: Hops and Head ("Rob Moline")
  sankey wash heads -need info ("Joe ,just-Joe")
  Reference Books ("Ray Daniels")
  Re: Candy sugar (was Darkening a Dubbel) (Wendy & Reuben Filsell)
  RE: New Hampshire (Jonathan Royce)
  Acidulated Malt ("A.J. deLange")
  Wyeast 2278 experience (Randy Ricchi)
  Re: Mash Tun / HLT Insulation (ksc58)
  Re: Nashua NH Brewpubs (Todd Goodman)
  WLP500 Belgian Dubbel ("Shawn E Lupold, Ph.D")
  insulation, CAPs, etc. (Marc Sedam)
  Dry Lager Yeast and Clinitest, Ramstein ("Dave Burley")
  Going all grain (Mark Kempisty)
  Darkening Dubbels (Charles)
  Re: Darkening a Dubbel ("Tidmarsh Major")
  Kessler Ale ("Neb Bosworth")
  Nashua New Hampster (Richard Foote)
  Bottling from a keg (Richard Foote)
  Wort chilling (K.M.)" <kmuell18 at visteon.com>
  Pilsner and Munich based extracts ("Tom & Dana Karnowski")
  Mounting Heater Element ("Pa tand Debbie Reddy")

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * http://www.cafeshops.com/hbdstore * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:15:36 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Gump re: Hops and Head Gump re: Hops and Head Steve, There is an artificial agent, "Sparkling Foam" by NorthWestern, and undoubtedly others....I use it in my pub's Root Beer. I have never used it in beer, but have often wondered..... Cheers! Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" >From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> >Subject: re: Hops and Head <SNIP> >I'm surprised that there isn't some artificial foam positive agent >used to replace this. Maybe there is, but I'm not aware of it. <SNIP> - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 22:54:10 -0600 From: "Joe ,just-Joe" <pester_joe at hotmail.com> Subject: sankey wash heads -need info Does anyone know if there is anything special about a sankey wash head that justifies it costing over twice as much as a tap head? In terms of cleaning one or two kegs, wsould a regular tap head with the gas check valve removed make an acceptable cleaning head? Thanks in advance. Joe Gibbens Hopedale IL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 06:11:33 -0600 From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net> Subject: Reference Books Hi all, Just some thoughts on brewing reference books for the Steinfillers---and anyone else who is so inclined. There is some recently published literature that is quite excellent if somewhat expensive. They are encyclopedic in their breadth and stunning in their detail. And most importantly, they are completely up to date. Here are three that are "must buys" in my opinion: Brewing Yeast and Fermentation by Chris Boulton and David Quain 644 pages, published 2002. (http://www.chipsbooks.com/brewing.htm) MALTS AND MALTING by Dennis E. Briggs 796 pages, published 1998 (http://www.chipsbooks.com/malts.htm) I have spent a good part of the last year reading the above two titles as time allows. The yeast book has an astounding amount of NEW information even for someone like myself who has been reading and studying brewing literature for a dozen years or more. Briggs covers everything including technology (equipment) and techniques, biology, barley. It is now THE go-to resource for all questions related to barley, malt and malting. My most commonly consulted "general" brewing book these days is: TECHNOLOGY BREWING AND MALTING by Wolfgang Kunze 720 pages, 1996 The shortcoming is that the perspective is German and lager oriented (although not exclusively), but in my opinion you can't find a better overall compendium of modern brewing practice. I greatly prefer it over Hardwick (Handbook of Brewing) or The Practical Brewer (MBAA) for depth and clarity as well as concise presentation. Hough, Briggs, Stevens and Young (Malting & Brewing Science I & II) continues to be a standby and is still the best source when specific information on British ale brewing is desired. Nonetheless this work is beginning to show its age and seems to become less relevant with each passing year. Mind you, I would still discard a large number of other texts from my collection before giving up HBS&Y. Cheers, Ray Daniels Editor, Zymurgy & The New Brewer Director, Brewers Publications Association of Brewers ray at aob.org 773-665-1300 For subscriptions and individual copy sales, call 1-888-822-6273. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 20:07:42 +0800 From: Wendy & Reuben Filsell <filsell at myplace.net.au> Subject: Re: Candy sugar (was Darkening a Dubbel) > From: homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request Address Only - No Articles) > Reply-To: homebrew at hbd.org (Posting Address Only - No Requests) > Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 00:32:20 -0500 > To: homebrew at hbd.org > Subject: Homebrew Digest #4200 (March 20, 2003) > > So I decided to make my own. I dissolved 8 oz. of table sugar in a > cup of deionized water and added enough lactic acid (3 drops) to get > the pH to ~5.3, and heated it to a simmer to invert it (even though > yeast will invert the sugar). I held it at a simmer for an hour or > so, then proceeded as above. At first the water just boiled off, > then it darkened. I stopped at a rich reddish-brown. I dissolved > the resulting "peanut-less brittle" in hot water and added it at the Sounds like Candy Sugar perhaps this will help. http://craftbrewer.org/ go to Materials and Methods - making your own Belgian Candy Sugar. Cheers, Reuben. W.A. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 04:34:14 -0800 From: Jonathan Royce <jonathan at woodburybrewingco.com> Subject: RE: New Hampshire Chuck Doucette asked about pubs in Nashua, NH. Chuck: Martha's Exchange right on Main St. is quite good. Good food, nice atmosphere, yummy brews. If you're into wine, check out Michael Timothy's Wine & Jazz bar, right across the street. If you want to eat there, I'd recommend making a reservation as it is small and very busy. They have EXCELLENT wines and the food is outstanding. Pricier than Martha's, but worth it, IMHO. If you don't mind making a drive, try the Brewery Exchange in Lowell, MA (about 15 minutes south of Nashua). Located in one of the old cotton mills, this place is pretty neat--you sit among a bunch of copper clad fermentation vessels. Finally, if you are just looking for a tour, drive about 5 minutes north on "old Route 3" (AKA the Daniel Webster highway) and you'll arrive at the northeast Anheiser-Busch brewery (in Merrimack). The tour is very basic, but it's fun and you get to try a couple less-known and better-tasting A-B recipes. (They have a Clydesdale team there too which is pretty awe-inspiring.) HTH, Jonathan Woodbury Brewing Co. www.woodburybrewingco.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 13:22:45 +0000 From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Acidulated Malt Patrick asked whether acidulated malt is being used in a recipe to compensate for water defficiencies. The answer is "most probably". In brewing with very soft water there is no calcium to trigger the acidifying reaction with malt phosphate so that unless acid is being supplied by dark malt it is likely that mash pH will not go as low as desired. Acidulated malt can be a source of the required acid. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:33:52 -0500 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: Wyeast 2278 experience Andy Mikesell is wondering about strange strands hanging in his beer and wonders if it's a property of the yeast he used. Andy, I brewed a few lagers with Y2278 this year, and a few years back I brewed all my lagers with that yeast. I have never seen anything like what you describe. Just a normal ferment. I would never race to throw something out, though. Wait and see how it tastes. By the way, lagers generally taste like s# at * for several (6 to 8) weeks after primary, so give it some time before you decide. Randy Ricchi Hancock, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:46:15 -0500 (EST) From: ksc58 <kcada at cas.org> Subject: Re: Mash Tun / HLT Insulation Pat Reddy asked about using the aluminum insulation being sold at hardware stores like Home Depot and Lowes that's essentially 3/8" bubble wrap sand- wiched between two sheets of very thin aluminum. I've used the insulation you've mentioned from Home Depot and it's great! I wrapped it around twice on a Bruheat boiler (which is just an ~6 gal. poly- propylene bucket with a 220v. heater in it) and I could easily hold the sides during a rolling boil. This works great for the sparge water tank and holds its temperature very well. I also used a twice-wrapped layer on a Polar pot which I was using on a gas range to mash in and it holds temperatures very well during step mashing. I also have a double-layer disc of the stuff to put on top of the lid during rests. I don't recall what magazine/book article I read discussing it, but you can use good 'ole duct tape for "prettying-up" the edges and you'll want to cut out slots for the pot handles. The duct tape works great for edging these slots. Home Depot also has adhesive-backed Velcro whic you can use on the edge to keep the layers from unfurlling while in place. If you do use this stuff on a range you'll need to unwrap the pot each time you apply the heat and then rewrap it when your done heating but that's quite easy with the Velcro. Ken Cada Chemical Abstracts Service Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:03:50 -0500 From: Todd Goodman <tsg at bonedaddy.net> Subject: Re: Nashua NH Brewpubs In HBD #4200, Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> wrote: > I will be heading off to Nashua, NH. in a couple of > weeks on business and was wondering if there are any > brewpubs of note in the area. I don't know exactly > what our schedule is yet, but hope to have some time > to quaff a few good brews if there are any. Martha's Brewery Exchange (I think that's the name) is in downtown Nashua. They usually have a few good beer available. It's really downtown and not near Pheasant Lane mall though, so don't get confused. Across the street from them (on Temple St.) is Jasper's Homebrew store so you might want to stop in there too. Also across from Martha's is Castro's Back Room (I think that's the name) if you're interested in cigars. Regards, Todd Still reconstructing the brewery in Westford, MA (15 minutes from Nashua) [630.3, 84] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:06:23 -0500 From: "Shawn E Lupold, Ph.D" <lupolds at jhmi.edu> Subject: WLP500 Belgian Dubbel I'm fermenting my first Dubbel and using White Labs WLP500. It's been in primary 11 days and I just transferred it to secondary last night. The taste and aroma is very promising, but only a small portion of the yeast have fallen out of solution. It looks more like Bavarian wheat yeast than Belgian ale. Will these yeast ever flocculate and fall out of solution? The fermentation is basically complete (1.065-1.009) and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and bottle or wait for the yeast to fall out in the carboy. Thanks in advance, Shawn Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:19:42 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: insulation, CAPs, etc. It *was* I who proposed using Kellogg's corn flakes in a CAP. The "extras" that Jeff notes are in the formulation are not going to hurt your beer (malt...well, that's a good thing, salts and minerals will help as yeast nutrients) and they have the added benefit of being available to absolutely everyone. Not that cornmeal is that hard to find. I currently use the "aluminum flashing insulation" material mentioned by Pat Reddy on my mash tun, held together with the aluminum tape they sell right next to it. Works like a champ...on a reasonably warm day (>55F) it will hold mash temps (assuming your tun TOP is also insulated) to within 2F of the desired temps. On very warm days (>75F) it stays right on for the full 60 minute mash. A very cheap solution. As for Nathan Hall... Let me get this straight. You made a wonderful beer that's outstanding in flavor and appearance, as well as throwing a nice Belgian lace, and you're asking if you "screwed it up"? Sounds like you made a hell of a beer to me. If you feel like you have to categorize it, look through the BJCP guidelines (http://www.bjcp.org) and find a style that fits what you've made and call it that. Otherwise, you can call it the Uber-Pils and be done with it. I would just call it great beer and hope it doesn't disappear too fast. - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 11:52:34 -0500 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Dry Lager Yeast and Clinitest, Ramstein Brewsters: Gee. Rob "Gump" Moline is a real gentlerman and shows real character. But I knew that all along. - ------------------- AJ , don't know why I thought Ramstein was near Frankfurt. Anyway, apfelwein is still a treat in Frankfurt. Thanks for the info. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 11:58:41 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Going all grain I too went all grain after about 6 years of extract and have not gone back (though I don't rule it out). It is more work but the results are - -- I feel -- even more satisfying. One of the biggest improvements I made to my extract brews (my last one to be exact) was going to a full boil. That IPA stood out far and above anything I did before and those were all quite good. So if you are staying with extracts and partial boils, try a full boil. Plus it puts you on the road to all-grain if you ever want to. - -- Take care, Mark Richboro, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:40:45 -0800 (PST) From: Charles at thestewarts.com Subject: Darkening Dubbels On Wed, 19 Mar 2003 Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> enlightened us on Darkening a Dubbel: > I have had luck with caramelized sugar. Using a clean, very smooth > skillet, heat a cup or so of sugar on medium heat. . . . [details deleted] > Pour it onto a piece of aluminum foil. . . . [more details deleted] Then break apart the caramelized sugar and boil it with some water > and add enough to get the color you want. Jeff, this is a great idea, but I think I'll take it one step simpler. When I make glazed carrots, I combine about a half a cup of sugar (I never measure stuff when I cook) with an ounce or two of water (doesn't matter how much) and a squirt of lemon juice. I heat it just as you describe and watch carefully as it undergoes the color changes. When it gets to where I want it, I immediately take it to the sink and put a cup or two of water in it - be careful as there is much steam generated. It makes an instant sauce - you don't have to pour, cool, and boil. I might make up a larger quantity of this stuff just to have on hand in the brewery! Chip Stewart Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com/brewery Support anti-Spam legislation. Join the fight http://www.cauce.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 11:54:21 -0600 From: "Tidmarsh Major" <tidmarsh at bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: Darkening a Dubbel On 20 Mar 2003 at 0:12, Jeff Renner wrote: > I have had luck with caramelized sugar. Along these same lines, a few years ago someone here on the HBD posted a link to some scans of homebrew directions from prohibition that as I recall might have come from the poster's father-in-law. The directions included plans for a mash tun with false bottom, and they described making and using caramel color, much like Jeff's post. I don't have access to the web here at work to do a search of the archives, but perhaps the original poster is still around to refresh our collective memories. Tidmarsh Major Tuscaloosa, Ala. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 13:26:32 -0500 From: "Neb Bosworth" <neb at quateams.com> Subject: Kessler Ale I have a buddy whose last name is Kessler and he had found some old ads for Kessler ale. I was wondering if anyone out there has ever come across a clone recipe for a Kessler beer? If so, where might I lay my hands on such a thing? if such a thing exists. Thanks, -Neb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 15:05:42 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Nashua New Hampster Chuck writes asking for local libation worth considering in Nashua. Martha's Exchange Brewing Company BrewPub 185 Main Street Nashua, NH 03060 (603) 883-8781 According to http://www.pubcrawler.com/Template/ReviewWC.cfm/flat/BrewerID=356, it's beers are rated "Good" overall. This parallels my experiences there, at least when I was there last about 5-6 years ago. They've got a "fish bowl" brewhaus with only a knee wall separating the DME brewery equipment from the patrons. They've got a nice mural painted on the wall too. For micros in the area, try: Nutfield Brewing Company Brewery 22 Manchester Road Derry, NH 03038 (603) 434-9678 http://www.nutfield.com They've got an Alan Pugsley designed brewery. Auburn Ale is their flagship offering. Very hospitable folks there. Pubcrawler overall rating is "Good". Sadly, Castle Springs Brewing Company, Moultonborough is no more. Otherwise I'd heartily recommending buying up some to bring home. Their GABF winning IPA and Munich Helles were superb examples, IMHO. Now, they just focus on their spring water [boo hoo]. Hope this helps. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 15:29:25 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Bottling from a keg Dan writes: "How about priming the whole batch in the keg with a corn sugar solution, mixing it well, then using a very low pressure to bottle a few. The keg would then be allowed to condition at 50F for a couple of weeks instead of force carbonating." This is SOP for me when bottling. However, my procedure differs in that I transfer from secondary about a gallon and prime it at a proportionate rate with boiled corn sugar soln. This usually yields just under two six packs for competitions. The rest (from the secondary) gets racked into the now empty bottling keg (corny) for force carbonating and serving on draught. I have recently thought about going Dan's route. This would allow for more accurate and repeatable cabonation levels. The negative aspect has been the yeast sediment and cloudy beer. I may try combating this with some finings (after carbonating) though. Hope this helps. Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 16:32:10 -0500 From: "Mueller, Kevin (K.M.)" <kmuell18 at visteon.com> Subject: Wort chilling I happen to work in automotive powertrain cooling, so I have access to a lot of different heat exchangers. Radiators, Condensers, Transmission oil coolers, heater cores, etc. Most of these are 100% aluminum (all but most radiators which have plastic end tanks, so I don't plan on using one of these). These are regularly scrapped out, so I can get my hands on a number of different varieties of cores that have never had anything but helium (used to leak check) and air in them. My question is this...Will they work as a wort chiller? Will the aluminum hold up to the pH of the wort? I believe the pro's use plate type chillers made out of stainless, right? Simple calculations for the core and flow will tell me how quickly it will chill the wort, so I can get the right size, but I'm mostly concerned with the material holding up and not leaching any extra Al into the wort. Anyone have experience with this? Any metallurgists lurking? I was thinking of mounting one in front of a standard box fan to increase the cooling capacity and using it instead of making a counter flow chiller. Thanks, Kevin Canton, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 19:11:39 -0500 From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk at esper.com> Subject: Pilsner and Munich based extracts Has anyone had any experience with the various pilsner and munich malt based extracts? Specifically, I'm thinking about the Pilsner based and Munich / Pils based extract from St. Pats, Alexanders, and Williams Brewing Private replies are fine Thanks! Tom Karnowski Knoxville TN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 21:22:16 -0600 From: "Pa tand Debbie Reddy" <reddydp at earthlink.net> Subject: Mounting Heater Element (I think I'm bringing this issue back from the dead) I found a hbd post from Jan 2002 where my exact question was posted, "How best do I mount a screw in type heating element through my keg wall without welding a coupling in place (no time for that!)?" The replies were: Dennis Collins - use a galvinized conduit ring Mike Pensinger - CPVC Coupling Mr. Hollenbeck - Have a coupling welded (Sorry Dion, no time for that!) I do find that the conduit nut fits nicely, but is it what I want in contact with my acidic wort (what are these made with/coated with anyway?). Is the CPVC durable enough? What about hacking of the business end of a 1" copper female adapter and using it as a nut? As always, any advice would be greatly appreciated as I plan to mount this thing Saturday morning. Also, please reply to pat.reddy at mavtech.cc as this is my home address. Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 03/21/03, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96