HOMEBREW Digest #4215 Tue 08 April 2003

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  Glacier hops again ("Mark Kellums")
  Fly sparging, indoor boil,metabisulfite water treatment ("Dave Burley")
  Carmel Porter (how to do it?) (darrell.leavitt)
  Re:  BMW motorcycle keg rack ("Dennis Collins")
  Even More Tales of She Who Must Be Brewed For ("Hanlon, Steve")
  Zinc in water ("Doug A Moller")
  repackaging hops (Randy Ricchi)
  RE:  Advice on Mocha Java Stout (Michael Hartsock)
  Re: Repackaging hops (David Towson)
  sankey couplings (Marc Sedam)
  re:  Indoor Boiling (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  First brew, 2003 ("Wayne Love")
  Many thanks to Dan Listermann (=?iso-8859-1?q?Stephen=20Hetrick?=)
  Cooling Off the Wort ("Dave Larsen")
  Fermentation Recirculation, Odd Keg, Coffee, & Vacuum Sealing ("Chip Stewart")
  Re: Comments on RO treatement ("Mike Sharp")
  Re: Fly sparging (BrewInfo)
  RE: Indoor Boiling ("Drew Avis")
  BONES Bash Results Are In! (Bruce Millington)
  Re: Advice on Mocha Java Stout (Matthew Arnold)
  CAN this error be fixed??? (Michele Maatta)
  Wired News Booze to Fuel Gadget Batteries ("Pete Calinski")
  10th Annual BUZZ Off Home Brew Competition ("Christopher Clair")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 00:18:38 -0500 From: "Mark Kellums" <infidel at springnet1.com> Subject: Glacier hops again Bill, Here you go...again. Hop Variety G L A C I E R Origin Cross between Elsasser F and 8685-014 M. Genetic composition is 1/2 Elsasser, 5/32 Brewer's Gold, 1/8 Northern Brewer, 1/16 Bullion, 1/32 Early Green, 1/32 German Aroma hop, 1/64 East Kent Golding, 1/128 Bavarian and 9/128 unknown Maturity Mid-season Yield Six Year Average: 2,135 lbs/acre Disease Reaction Needs Plant Protectants for Powdery Mildew and Downey Mildew. Agronomically, very acceptable. Cone-Structure Medium-compact and plump Quality: Lupulin Abundant, yellow in color Aroma Excellent, pleasant hoppiness Storageability Six year average: 71.5% of alpha acids remaining after six months storage at 20 C. Very good, and similar to Willamette, Styrian, and Magnum Spectro Data: Alpha Acids Six year average: 5.63% Co-Humulone Six year average: 12% Beta Acids Six year average: 7.6% Hop Oils: Total Oil 0.7 - 1.6% v/w (six year average = 1.1%) Myrcene 33 - 62% (six year average = 47%) Humulene 24 - 36% (six year average = 29%)l Caryophyllene 6.5 - 10.0% (six year average = 7.2%) Farnesene <0.3% Brewing Character: An excellent hop with balanced bittering properties combined with an acceptable aroma profile. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 01:31:12 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Fly sparging, indoor boil,metabisulfite water treatment Brewsters: Jeff found an old reference using the term Fly Sparging. Now the mystery deepens. Where did that term come from? For the record, and 'les you misunderstand Jeff's teasing, I did not disparage AlK's rep by my comments. As I said in the previous post, Al commented on the peculiarity of the term at the time of his original posting. - ------------------- Mike in Madison wouild like to avoid a Zhivagoesque beer boilup in his basement in winter ( it's STILL winter there isn't it? Flowers and trees are blooming here in South Carolina) . I suggest you install a kitchen vent fan with an exit to the outside, otherwise you have a potential mess, mold, etc. Releasing several gallons of water in an enclosed space over a short time is outside the design range. Don't know, but maybe there is a small window fan arrangement that you could buy or build that will work if you have a window and such available. This could be put in place as needed after you dig all that snow away from your windows. {8^) - --------------------- Peter Wadey from Down Under asks if it is OK to use sodium metabisulfite to clean up chloramine in his water. No wirries, mate. Either sodium or potassium will do the job, since it is the metabisulfite which is the active ingredient in this case. In either event, the amount you add - a few ppm - will be insignificant. In winemaking, the potassium form is used since it is often eliminated by precipitation as a bitartrate salt. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 07:40:20 -0400 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Carmel Porter (how to do it?) I have been asked to make a Carmel Porter. I have the porter side ok, but am not sure how to mimic the carmel? Has anyone done this with success? ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:12:00 -0400 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Re: BMW motorcycle keg rack Kevin writes: >Thought some of you might be interested in seeing this... >http://www.infernalmachineshop.com/Keg_Rack_1.htm. >It shows the modification of a BMW motorcycle to hold 2 corney kegs! >Kevin >Canton, MI Hey, this is great! Much better than that silly hat I have that holds two beer cans with an interconnecting straw. These will last much longer and I won't need a cup holder! Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:36:26 -0400 From: "Hanlon, Steve" <SHanlon at dnr.state.md.us> Subject: Even More Tales of She Who Must Be Brewed For In HBD #4211, Frank in Buffalo writes: >>The cat pounces. SWMBO looks off defiantly, puts her nose in the air, and >>says, in a measured, icy tone, "I'll...just...have...a...Coke...." Recently my wife and I went out for dinner without our young son. The waitress hands us the menu and then asks what we'd like to drink. I ask what beer they have and she does the usual - Bud, Bud Lite, Coors... I ask what they have in bottles. Bud, Bud Lite, Coors... Then she says they have a dark beer, Killians. I look at my wife and then order a Coke. I just couldn't see washing down my steak with a "dark" Killians. -Steve Hanlon Severn, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 07:43:11 -0500 From: "Doug A Moller" <damoller at intergate.com> Subject: Zinc in water To Peter Wadley; campden will not remove chlorine or chloramine. When I brewed in Oklahoma City(also chloramine) I used a carbon filter(about $30 US). Another issue you will have to deal with is they probably add hydrated lime to raise the pH to 10 or above to stabilize the chloramines otherwise it is no better than chlorine and dissipates out. I know chloramines will not vaporize at room temp. Check your pH and find out what they use to raise it. I used the Okc water after I carbon filtered with no side affects to my beer in fact made some great beer with it even though my pH was 10.1! If you add enough acid to bring the pH down IT WILL HAVE A PROFOUND FLAVOR CONTRIBUTION TO YOUR BEER! Not in a good way. I have a question to the group. I received my water test from the J R Peters testing lab and my zinc is at 2 ppm. I have read that anywhere from .5 to 1 ppm is toxic to yeast. I have made beer with the water as is and had no fermentation problems and even stored yeast on slants and slurry from long periods of time without any problems. If I do find it is a problem in the future how can I get rid of the zinc? Doug Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 08:51:10 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: repackaging hops Doug Moyer was asking about methods of re-packaging hops. I use a FoodSaver (Bagvac model), and it really does a good job. The foodsaver bags are oxygen impermeable and quite heavy duty. The machine has enough vacuum power that it really compacts a half pound bag of whole hops, so much so that the hops eventually become clumped together. Very nice for long term storage in the freezer. I bought mine a couple years ago at Wal-mart for about $99 US Randy Hancock, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 06:22:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Advice on Mocha Java Stout I recently made a gallon of a coffee stout thing (i had 1 gallon of stout that wouldn't fit in the secondary). I just took a few shots of coffee liquour and pitched in the secondary, and let what sugar was in there ferment out, you could also incorporate it into the bottling and use the liquour to prime. Try a fifth per gallon. michael ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 10:23:03 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Repackaging hops In HBD 4214, Doug Moyer asks for suggestions on repackaging whole hops for a club bulk buy. I have been very pleased with the results of storing whole hops in glass jars with screw-on lids (e.g., Mason jars). I pack them as tightly as I can, and store them in the freezer compartment of my beer fridge. I can get a pound of hops in four quart jars. And since the jars are reusable, the initial cost is spread over a long lifetime. Dave in Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 10:49:16 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: sankey couplings Ben asks about a Sankey coupling... These are pretty easy to deal with. Release any remaining pressure by pushing down on the ball in the spear COVERED WITH A TOWEL. No need for a stanky beer bath. Buy the smallest awl you can find. Pry the ring out with the awl. Takes 30 sec tops. My problem has always been getting the ring back inside the keg, FWIW. That just takes practice. -m - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 11:08:38 -0400 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: re: Indoor Boiling Mike in Madison wrote: >What is the best method for boiling wort indoors in a basement? I want to >go to 12 gallon batches and move to all grain brewing, but boiling outside >in the winter won't be pretty in Wisconsin. Come on Mike!!!!! Don't be a "we knee"!!! Brewing outside in the winter is fun!!!! My wife and I brewed six consecutive weekends this year starting on January 11!!!! We live in Ann Arbor, Michigan. We're not exactly the tropical paradise of the Great Lakes!!! The average highs on those days were 26.88F and the average lows were 14.36F. Get some fresh air!!! Brew outside!!!! What about the rest of the loyal HBD followers?? Do you brew inside or outside?? We make the beer we drink!! Bob Barrett Ann Arbor, MI (2.8, 103.6) Rennarian. Had dinner with him and his wife last Friday Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 13:20:45 -0300 From: "Wayne Love" <wlove at fdchoice.com> Subject: First brew, 2003 Finally, after six or so weeks I've got my slate cleaned off enough to get back into spring brewing. I tried my new rims out yesterday, (Compu-Brew, from ABT, ) worked great, appeared to have no temperature stratification, although I could only stick the thermometer down about two thirds of the way but the readings agreed to the control panel that reads from the mash outtake.(the bottom) I attempted to use a supposively new March 809 hs pump to transfer water from my hlt to the rims however the pump screeched as if a bearing was gone. (Are these pumps self priming or should they be mounted below the hlt keg?) A similar pump in my rims worked fine. Ran into another hiccup. I replaced the hoses on my wort chiller (immersion type) with the reinforced heat tolerant hoses. I thought I had tightened the hose clamps sufficiently, however in checking wort about 15 minutes into the chilling process, I was dismayed to discover that my volume had significantly shrunken to approximately 7 gallons instead of the 11 gallons that I had started out with. .....Where'd it go? It wasn't till I noticed that it was down to the hose level on the chiller that I suspected that the rushing water must have drawn the wort in thru a loose clamp and down my drain. (Venturi action?) Oh well the remaining wort tasted great and I had hit my target O.G. of 1.049 dead on, and I had had fun. With the talk this morning (on another site) about oxygenating the wort, 14 or so hours into the process, how many actually do this? And is this window still open at 20 to 24 hrs later? Hoppy brewing Wayne Love, Rothesay, NB. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 17:21:06 +0100 (BST) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Stephen=20Hetrick?= <invalid76 at yahoo.co.uk> Subject: Many thanks to Dan Listermann I would like to publicly thank Mr. Listermann for a special favor. I posted on his site that I had lost one of the plugs for my sparger (during its first use, no less...). I wanted to know where I could get a replacement, and Mr. Listermann asked for my mailing address. Less than a week later I received 4 replacement plugs from him. He did this without asking for any kind of compensation for the postage. Needless to say, he just gained a customer for life. Once again, thank you! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 17:08:44 +0000 From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpumonkey at hotmail.com> Subject: Cooling Off the Wort Thanks for all the great answers about protein rests and wheat malt posted here and via email. I was not aware that wheat malt is highly modified like barley malt it. That is good to know. I have another unrelated question, though. I live in the desert. During the summer months I usually take a hiatus from brewing because it simply is too hot. Even in the months leading up to summer, my ale temperatures often soar to 76, 77, even 78 degrees, which is right on the edge of producing a drinkable product. I can't really lower the temperature in the house without having horrendous electric bills. Eventually, I'll invest in a chest freezer and one of the funky external thermostats (I want to do that anyway to get into lagering). However, in the mean time, I'd like to find a way of cooling my wort. I thought about maybe putting the carboy in a shallow tub of water with a fan blowing on it -- a sort of swamp cooler effect. However, I'm afraid that I'll end up with a lot of hard water scaling on the fermentor (though so far that is my best bet). I'm sure there are some other desert brewers here. Does anybody have a good, cost effective, low-tech way to cool their fermentors? - Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 14:09:09 -0400 (EDT) From: "Chip Stewart" <Charles at thestewarts.com> Subject: Fermentation Recirculation, Odd Keg, Coffee, & Vacuum Sealing It occured to me the other day that a simpler solution might exist to the fermentation recirculation experiment. You know the self-start siphon hose with the squeeze bulb and the little valve inside? How 'bout hooking one up so it pulls out of the side port and in the the bottom. Every time you walk by, just give it a squeeze (or for those of you who sleep with your conical fermenters beside you - and you know who you are - just roll over and give it a squeeze). Doing that a few times a day should be enough to keep the yeast in suspension. I know a $5 / 5 minute solution isn't much fun, but it may work! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - In my latest batch of kegs, I received a 1.5 gal. John Wood / Superior keg. I already have one of these and would love to have another (great for taking a little brew with me to friends, family, etc.). Unfortunately, the ball-lock fittings are missing. Now I can usually get fittings for must kegs, but this one even has the folks at Foxx stumped. The threads on the kegs are smaller than any of the old/new cornelius/firestone parts I have. Anyone have any ideas where I can pick these up? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Regarding Darrell's queston as to how much coffee to use - I used 1/3 lb. and it was a little strong in 5 gal. Next time I'll use 1/4 lb. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - And finally . . . . Doug Moyer asks about repackaging hops. I just repackaged a bunch for myself a little while ago. It seems the vacuum sealer doesn't suck the air out very well if a smooth bag is used. The bags that come with the sealer (or can be purchased separately) have very small channels for the air to leave. Using them, I was able to repackage a couple of dozen bags without any problem. Oh, and I set the heater setting at two so it melted the plastic a little more. Chip Stewart Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com/brewing Support anti-Spam legislation. Join the fight http://www.cauce.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 11:13:50 -0700 From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Comments on RO treatement Dave Burley has some suggestions regarding RO treatment of well water: "In any event and what is of real importance is you can't really make good beer with high iron water. Go to Home Depot or wherever and get a little under the sink RO water treatment for drinking water and making beer. "BTW if you or your family drink RO water, be sure to periodically sanitize the system with a little bleach per instructions, change the carbon filter and include trace mineral tablets in their and your diet." I have a couple of points to make here...well, cautions, really. RO does work well for treating water, but the membranes are ruined by iron. You need to pre-treat the water with manganese green sand if you're going to use RO with water having iron in it. Also, while the suggestion regarding sanitizing is a good one, the RO systems sold for well water systems typically use TFC (thin film composite) membranes which are VERY vulnerable to any halogen in the +1 state. Chlorine will rapidly cleave the polymer, and cause the membrane to fail. Household RO systems for municipal water usually use CA or CTA (cellulose [tri-] acetate), which is resistant to chlorine (but they're much less efficient, and don't work as well as TFC). So these are sometimes sanitized with low level chlorine. Some RO systems are pretreated with activated carbon filters to remove the chlorine, and use TFC membranes. These are especially susceptable to bacterial contamination (from the carbon filter). So you generally install a resin based water softener after the carbon filter, because this reduces bacterial seeding. So while the CA or CTA membrane is resistant to chlorine, it's susceptable to biological fouling and damage. TFC is susceptable to chlorine, but resists fouling much better. It will get the clear algae slime on it though. The only reliable and safe way to ensure sanitary drinking water in the long term from a home RO system is to either regularly remove the membranes and filters, sanitize, and replace with new membranes and filters, post-chlorinate the water, or use UV irradiation. Because the membranes are expensive, and no one wants to chlorinate their drinking water after they've purified it, UV is the most reliable. Use a 254nm UV sterilizer, and make certain the flow rate is not exceeded. Ultra-pure water systems use a 185 nm light as well, followed by mixed bed ion exchange. The 254nm kills, and the 185nm oxidizes the bacterial particles which are then removed by IX. Regards, Mike Sharp Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 13:48:52 -0500 (CDT) From: brewinfo at xnet.com (BrewInfo) Subject: Re: Fly sparging >In HBD 4197, March 17, 2003, "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> wrote: > >>To my knowledge, the term "fly sparging" is a mistake and came into the HBD >>lingo as a result of Al Korzonas' visit to a British brewery. Possibly he was >>having trouble understanding his guide or the guide was mistaken. He even >>commented on the peculiar term, as I recall. >> >>Likely the term is really "on the fly" sparging. Brits use this expression to >>describe any continuous process. >> >>Any British brewer have the answer for sure? > >It took a little time, but I am able to rescue Al K's reputation ;-) > >In H. S. Corran's 1975 classic _A History of Brewing_ (p.191), he >quotes J. Levesque's 1853 _The Art of Brewing_: > >"Fly Mashing, which is modernly termed Sparging, is to pass the >succeeding liquors over the goods while the tap is spending." > >It seems that sparging as we know it came into practice in Great >Britain in the mid 19th century. before that, successive mashes were >used, even though they weren't actually accomplishing any further >conversion after the first mash. > >Jeff Jeff's right, and in fact, there's a name for those successive mashes (actually, they would do one mash, run off, add hot water, run off, add hot water, and run off). It's called Parti Gyle brewing. The runnings from those successive mashes could be boiled and fermented separately (it has been speculated that this is where Belgian Tripel, Dubbel, and Enkel (Single) may have originated) or added together into one boil. I futher *speculate* that the English term "Running Beer" could even be related to this. Running Beer was typically a weak beer. Thanks Jeff... it appears that it's only marginally easier for Dave to contradict me when I'm not actively reading HBD to defend myself ;^). Al. P.S. For the record... I visited more than a dozen breweries in the UK and the "guide" was typically the Head Brewmaster (and I had no trouble understanding them as I'm rather fluent in English). Where I did have some trouble understanding the Brewmaster was at Zum Uerige, where we did some of our communication by writing in the condensation on a lagering tank, since my German isn't up to par with my English. I've since learned that current labels of Zum Uerige contradict my understanding of the malt bill there. I've asked several people who were heading to Zum Uerige to ask if the recipe had changed or if I had misunderstood, but so far, nobody has reported back. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 15:21:07 -0400 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Indoor Boiling Mike, the "safest" way to boil indoors is to go electric. Note that safest is in quotations because while propane can explode and/or poison you with CO, electricity + wort can put a big hurt on you as well if you're not careful. But with proper safety precautions, electric is the way to go indoors. I went electric to escape the unheated garage during the Canadian winter, and I don't regret it. There are photos of a couple of various electric systems at the Members of Barleyment gallery (http://barleyment.neap.net/gallery/), and I have a few details of my setup at http://www.strangebrew.ca/Drew/electric/. Good luck with your system! Drew Avis Member of Barleyment for Greater Merrickville, Ontario Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 19:20:10 -0400 From: Bruce Millington <bmillington2 at comcast.net> Subject: BONES Bash Results Are In! The results of the 2003 BONES Bash are now available at www.b-o-n-e-s.com. The Brewers of the Northeast Section would like to thank all of the entrants, judges, stewards, and sponsors. We would particularly like to thank Victory Brewing Co. for once again hosting the event. Congratulations to Scott Wilson for his Best of Show winning Biere de Garde! See you next year! Bruce Millington BONES Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 19:16:22 -0500 From: Matthew Arnold <marnold at ez-net.com> Subject: Re: Advice on Mocha Java Stout > I have a Mocha Java Stout in secondary, and am in need of some of the > collective wisdom as to how to get the java in, and how much to use. Here's a datapoint: I brew a stout that I call "Breakfast Stout" because it contains espresso and oatmeal. Here's the grain bill for a five gallon batch: 7.5# English Pale Ale malt 1# English 55L Crystal 1# Briess Roasted Barley .5# Weyermann Melanoidin malt 1# Quaker Quick Oats When I keg it, I first add two pots (16oz total--these are the little four-shot espresso pots) of espresso to the keg and rack the beer on top of it. At first, there will be a very noticable espresso flavor. Soon, it melds in nicely with the roasted barley, etc., and mainly leaves a wonderful coffee aroma. My wife loves this beer and I like it too! Matt (resubscribed and delurking) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 20:52:28 -0400 From: Michele Maatta <mrmaatta at mtu.edu> Subject: CAN this error be fixed??? OH, I am sitting here near tears because I bottled and primed 10 gallons of wonderful homebrew last week. 5 gallons of an outstanding Hefeweisen, and 5 gallons of a Bud Clone for my friends who "really" don't like beer. Much to my horror, in my recent inheritance of another friend's brewing supplies, I realized I used malto dextrin rather than corn sugar as priming sugar. I am a fairly new brewer and wonder if there are some well seasoned ones that can offer a suggestion? I am horrified, and would like to somehow salvage these wonderful nectars of the gods :) I know they will likely be compromised, but it is worth a try!! Thanks in advance and Cheers!!! Michele Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 20:50:38 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Wired News Booze to Fuel Gadget Batteries This link describes how they are developing batteries that get their energy from alcohol http://www.wired.com/news/gizmos/0,1452,58119,00.html Here is an excerpt: ******************************************************************* ""You can use any alcohol. You will be able to pour it straight out of the bottle and into your battery," said team member Nick Akers, a graduate student. "We have run it on various types. It didn't like carbonated beer and doesn't seem fond of wine, but any other works fine." Users won't have to deplete their liquor cabinets to keep their portables powered up, because all it takes is a few drops. " **************************************************************** Would a full carboy run my whole house??????????? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 22:26:49 -0400 From: "Christopher Clair" <buzz at netreach.net> Subject: 10th Annual BUZZ Off Home Brew Competition Brewers Unlimited Zany Zymurgists (BUZZ) is proud to announce that the 2003 BUZZ Off home brew competition will be held on Saturday, June 7th at Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant in West Chester, PA. For another year we will be a qualifying event for the prestigious Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing (MCAB) as well as the Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year. All BJCP recognized styles including meads and ciders are eligible for entry. For complete details and forms, please visit the BUZZ web site at http://hbd.org/buzz. Entries will be accepted between May 12 and June 1. For drop off and mail in locations please refer to the BUZZ web site. Please, do not send entries to Iron Hill. BJCP Judges and stewards will be needed. If you are interested please contact me or another committee member (contact information can be found on the web site). All judges must be BJCP certified. Good luck and cheers! Christopher Clair buzz at netreach.net http://hbd.org/buzz "The mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer." - Ancient Egyptian Wisdom, 2200 B.C. Return to table of contents
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