HOMEBREW Digest #4216 Wed 09 April 2003

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  Re:  re:  Indoor Boiling (Teresa Knezek)
  Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around (Ryan Neily)
  aquarium heater fermentation safety ("Tom & Dana Karnowski")
  salvaging ("David Craft")
  cooling fermenters (very low tech] (Darrell.Leavitt)
  RE: Indoor Boiling ("Dan Gross")
  re: Cooling Off the Wort (Jonathan Royce)
  Keeping a Fermenter Cool (Kevin White)
  Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter (stewart.pounds)
  re: indoor boiling (Randy Ricchi)
  Iron, Sodium ("A.J. deLange")
  Re: CAN this error be fixed??? (David Towson)
  Re: Fixing excess iron problems (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Indoor boiling... (Matt Schultz)
  primed w/malt-dextrin by accident (Randy Ricchi)
  Re: Where do you brew? (Mark Kempisty)
  CAN this error be fixed??? (Leo Vitt)
  Chloramine/Zinc ("A.J. deLange")
  chloramines/chlorine/Campden Tabs, RO chlorine, maltodextrin carbonation ("Dave Burley")
  re: Indoor Boiling (Jason Poll)
  Zn toxicity (Alan Meeker)
  Brewing outside of the box... (Pat Babcock)
  Re: repackaging hops ("Mark Kellums")
  re: priming lambics (Scott Perfect)
  RE: indoor brewing (Brian Lundeen)
  Hops growing (Michael Hartsock)
  RE: Fixing excess iron problems ("Mike Sharp")
  dan listermann ("Mike Racette")
  Brewing inside (Beaverplt)
  Re: Carmel (sic) Porter (Kent Fletcher)
  Cooling off the wort ("Jason Lindner")
  Re: Indoor Boiling (Matthew Arnold)
  Yarrow in beer ("nlkanous ")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 21:08:56 -0900 From: Teresa Knezek <teresa at mivox.com> Subject: Re: re: Indoor Boiling On or thereabout 4/8/03, Barrett, Bob (R.A.) spoke thusly: >We live in Ann Arbor, Michigan. We're not exactly the >tropical paradise of the Great Lakes!!! The average highs on those days >were 26.88F and the average lows were 14.36F. Har, Har... Bwahahaha... Hooooboy! Nice balmy winter ya got there! :-) Up here, the average temps during that time were all below zero, but since it only got down to a max of around 20 below (OK, I think it hit -30 once this year), it was nice weather! >What about the rest of the loyal HBD followers?? Do you >brew inside or outside?? Inside. I didn't start brewing until this winter, so that's the only way I've ever done it (once I got the big burner... before that I did two all-grain batches split between two pots on my propane stovetop. Not recommended.) Got an attached garage, and I set up my propane burner and crack the overhead garage door about 6 inches. Works well. Propane sinks, heat rises, so most of the heat stays in, and presumably, the propane can get out. Haven't passed out during a boil yet. AND, since it's just a cement floor, I don't even have to hover around watching for boil-overs... If I had to set up in a basement, I'd install an industrial-strength oven hood vent right above where I was setting up the boiler, and make sure I had a window to crack open to replace the air the vent sucked out. - -- ::Teresa : Two Rivers, Alaska:: [2849, 325] Apparent Rennerian "It has been my experience that folks who have no vices have very few virtues." -- Abraham Lincoln Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 01:11:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Ryan Neily <ryan at neily.net> Subject: Sankey Anti-Tamper Work Around I have a couple of Sankey kegs that I would like to use for kegging however, I have found that the anti-tamper thing that keeps the valve and rod in place is a bugger to get out and put back in. I did see the Kegman conversion kit for the sankey kegs, but it looks a little expensive at $8.95 for a snap-ring and OEM o-ring. Do this kit work well? Does anyone have an easier way to hold the valve/rod in while still keeping a fair amount of pressure on the gasket to make the keg air tight? (Places to order or specs on the hardware would be great as well) I am sure this has been asked here many times before, but I couldn't find any mention of it in the Archives... - -- Ryan Neily ryan at neily.net Random Quote: After the last of 16 mounting screws has been removed from an access cover, it will be discovered that the wrong access cover has been removed. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 05:09:39 -0400 From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk at esper.com> Subject: aquarium heater fermentation safety I am dealing with too cool fermentation temperatures in my basement. The coming of spring & summer will solve much of this in the next few months, but in the mean time I need a solution sooner so I can ferment a wheat beer and get some good banana notes from it. I have seen that some folks place their fermenters in a tub of some sort, fill it with water, and use an aquarium heater. I would like to try this but I am a little nervous about safety. I don't want to endanger my family simply to get a better beer. I have a 100 watt aquarium heater that I will set in a Rubbermaid type storage bin. Those bins are pretty tough but they ARE plastic, and were not really designed for this application. In my mind, I worry that worst case the heater, which is stuck to the side of the bin, will melt the plastic, drain out all the water, then burn up and cause a horrible conflagration. So... Can anyone else assure me that this is a fairly safe practice? I realize no one can say 100% "it won't cause any problems" but you can say "I've been doing this for years and I have been fine". Is a 100 watt heater overdoing it? Guidelines suggest 5 watts per gallon and the tub is maybe 10 gallons, I think, but is it ok to go bigger? Finally, where do you put the tub? I will put mine in a bathtub, initially, but I may need to move it to another location at some point. Thanks Tom Karnowski Knoxville TN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 06:46:50 -0400 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: salvaging Michele, Welcome to the world of home. Be glad you did not mix up your sanitizer with your priming sugar. These bottles will keep until you can get some Primetabs, little corn sugar pills. They work great. Open the bottles and put them in. If there is any carbonation already, cool the bottles down real good before starting. These pills can cause foaming, so have a friend to cap them right back. Good luck. David Craft PS- I don't think the malto-dextrine will be that noticeable in such a small quantity. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 06:43:33 -0400 From: Darrell.Leavitt at esc.edu Subject: cooling fermenters (very low tech] Dave; I use a plastic trashcan, filled 1/2 way up with water,...add ice in the morning, keep in the darkest/ coolest part of the house, draw off water in eve, add ice...it seems to resist the normal swings of ambient temperature...and up north here we can make lagers w/o chest freezers... Happy Brewing! ..Darrell Plattsburgh, NY: 44 41 58 N Latitude 73 27 12 W Longitude [544.9 miles, 68.9]Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 06:57:17 -0400 From: "Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net> Subject: RE: Indoor Boiling In response to Bob's survey on indoor vs. outdoor boiling: I began boiling outdoors two years ago when we moved to this house and I discovered the old stove would not accomodate my kettle. I enjoy boiling outdoors except in the rain since my outdoor brew area is a concrete pad in the back without a cover. I find that I have to plan my brew days based on the weather report which I watch carefully a week in advance while preparing the yeast started in the hopes that the two will coincide favorably. My next home improvement may be a structure to cover the brew area. Dan Gross Olney, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 04:42:06 -0700 From: Jonathan Royce <jonathan at woodburybrewingco.com> Subject: re: Cooling Off the Wort Dave Larsen asked about cooling off his fermenter in the desert. Dave: Have you seen Ken Schwartz's Son-of-a-Fermentation chiller? It is exactly intended for what you want to do: chill a fermenter in the desert heat and not spend a lot on electricity. http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/chiller/chiller.html I built a similar device (a sort-of hybrid chiller/heater) for fermenting outdoors in NH. That can be seen here: http://www.woodburybrewingco.com/FTC.html You had mentioned the idea of cooling using a water bath and fan. Before building the "box", I used to use a water bath to help minimize the effect of my home's programmable thermostats, which raise and lower the temperature of the house about 15F twice a day. http://www.woodburybrewingco.com/Fermenter%20in%20Water%20Jacket.jpg I did get a bit of scaling on the outside of my glass fermenter, but mainly just at the water/air interface. So I think your idea would work, but it would probably require some ice additions throughout the course of the fermentation to keep the bath temperature low enough to be effective. HTH, Jonathan Woodbury Brewing Co. www.woodburybrewingco.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 07:59:22 -0400 From: Kevin White <kwhite at bcpl.net> Subject: Keeping a Fermenter Cool Dave Larsen asks, "Does anybody have a good, cost effective, low-tech way to cool their fermentors?" I place my carboys in a shallow plastic tub (about 4 inches deep) and fill the tub with lightly chlorinated water. I fully wet a bath towel (one of those that has been banned from family use by SWMBO) and wrap it around the carboy, with the bottom edge resting in the tub water. Evaporation and capillary action keep the carboys at a relatively stable 65F in my furnace room in the summer. And, the towel wrapped around the carboy protects the contents from stray light. I add water about every second or third day, usually by pouring it around the neck of the carboy. I live in the humid mid-Atlantic part of the US; you may want to monitor the temperature you can achieve because the arid desert environment will raise the evaporation rate and lower the temperature. (In the Fall the humidity drops and, by around Thanksgiving, this method drops my fermenter temperature to about 55F.) Kevin White Columbia, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 08:02:06 -0400 From: stewart.pounds at gm.com Subject: Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter Has anyone tried to clone Stoney Creeks Vanilla Porter? My wife and I was there a couple of weeks ago and it, it was great and I'd like to make something close to it. I thought I could just add Vanilla flavor to a porter recipe something like I do with my Hazelnut Porter, but from what I've found on the web it looks like everyone is using Vanilla beans to flavor there beers. Any help would be greatly appreciated i.e. grain bills , or processes. As usual private E-mail is fine. Thanks, Stu stewart.pounds at gm.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 08:13:02 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: re: indoor boiling Bob Barrett said: "We live in Ann Arbor, Michigan. We're not exactly the tropical paradise of the Great Lakes!!! Umm, yes you are, Bob. Randy Ricchi Hancock, Michigan Where we STILL have about 2 feet of F#%!$ng snow on the ground!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 13:04:17 +0000 From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Iron, Sodium Some well waters contain fair amounts of iron - it depends on the subterranean geology in your region. There is no primary limit for iron as far as the drinking water act is concerned but there is a secondary limit of 0.3 mg/L (secondary limits are those above which the water is considered aesthetically displeasing). For brewers a more practical limit is 0.1 mg/L. Fortunately iron is relatively easy to deal with. The first step is to make sure that it is all in the Fe(III) state and this is done either by the use of an oxidizing agent (typically potassium permanganate - this is what most chemical based iron filters use) or exposure to the oxygen in air by aeration. If the water contains mostly Fe(II) "clear water iron" aeration will turn it milky. If it is already cloudy then much or most of the iron is Fe(III). Given that the iron has all been oxidized to the Fe(III) state it will form the insoluble hydroxide, Fe(OH)3 which can be filtered out. For treating brewing quantities of water simple but thorough aeration will usually do the job. The oxygen in the air converts Fe(II) and the process also sparges out the CO2 which is responsible for the low pH often associated with well water. Spray the water through a nozzle or shower head or pour it back and forth between two containers from an appreciable height. Then put a few inches of clean sand (sandbox stuff from Home Depot) into the bottom of a polyethylene lauter bucket (lots of little holes in the bottom) and pour the water into this (or spray it if you used a sprayer). The top of the sand should pick up an ugly brown stain - this is the ferric hydroxide gel. The water collected from beneath the bucket should be clear and free of iron to below 0.1 mg/L. The sand can be washed and used again. Simple and relatively inexpensive test kits for iron are available from Hach (www. hach.com) and other suppliers. These can be used to check pre and post treatment levels of total iron as well as Fe(II) and Fe(III) separately if desired. If a whole house solution is desired then consult the local water treatment supply house. They can equip you with either aeration type (air injection system with greensand bed filter which is automatically back washed periodically) or, where the iron load is too great, systems which use permanganate. In either, addition of chemicals for pH adjustment may be required from time to time. Barring this, the air injection type is obviously to be preferred as no chemicals are required. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Some Campden tablets are potassium metabite and some are sodium. It's the metabite that does the job so it doesn't matter from the chloramine POV which is used. In either case the amount of the alkali metal ion added to the water is small. Per mg/L of choramine the amount of potassium added is 1.1 mg/L when the potassium salt is added and with the sodium salt it is 0.65 mg/L. Thus if the water contained 3 mg/L chloramine the use of sufficient sodium metabite to neutralize it would result in an increase of about 2 mg/L in the sodium content of the water. This should be unappreciable relative to the 11 - 16 mg/L already present in Sydney water. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 09:10:57 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: CAN this error be fixed??? In HBD 4215, Michele Maatta laments accidentally using malto dextrin to prime some beer, and hopes for a fix. Pop the caps, put in the appropriate amount of corn sugar, and recap. If you've followed proper sanitation procedures all along, I doubt you'll be able to tell the difference. But since you'll have to put the sugar in dry, you might have to wait a little longer than usual for it to get into solution so the yeast can get to it. You could give each bottle a good shake after recapping to help dissolve the sugar, but that would risk driving into the beer whatever Oxygen is in the headspace. Probably better to just be patient. Dave in Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 09:17:12 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Fixing excess iron problems "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> wrote: >Usually, it's an old steel well casing that's responsible for excess >iron, but yours is new...unless you have iron pipe in your house >distribution. That might be worth looking into... Could you say more about this? It certainly does not seem to be the case in this part of the country - iron is simply a natural part of the ground water, and I think this is common elsewhere. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 08:35:57 -0500 From: Matt Schultz <matt.schultz at tds.net> Subject: Re: Indoor boiling... Mike, A buddy of mine and I have recently completed our homebrewer's setup in my basement here in Madison, WI. It's a 20x10 foot room in my house that I built myself. It's nice when one has an unfinished basement, and a wife that likes homebrewed beer enough to give me the freedom to build something like this. To make it a little easier to deal with all the condensation I removed part of the basement wall and installed a 4x4 foot egress window. When the condensation gets really bad, we flip a switch on a fan that exhausts the moisture out of this window. Hope this helps! Matt Schultz Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 09:43:41 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: primed w/malt-dextrin by accident Michele, The malto dextrin won't hurt anything, it will just add body to the beer. However, it won't ferment and carbonate your beer, either. At this point, you will need to uncap your bottles, and prime them one-by-one with either primetabs, or if you don't have any of those, sanitize a small measuring spoon and use your corn sugar. Personally, I use regular sucrose for priming. Someone recently posted to the HBD how much corn sugar per bottle to use. Was it Dave Burley? Do a little search of the past few weeks and you should find it. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 10:02:32 -0400 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Re: Where do you brew? Bob Barrett asks: What about the rest of the loyal HBD followers?? Do you brew inside or outside?? I-I-I-i-i b-b-b-brew o-o-out-s-s-side. AAAAAAAAACCCHHHOOOOOooooooooo..... - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 07:23:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Leo Vitt <leo_vitt at yahoo.com> Subject: CAN this error be fixed??? Michele asked about recovering from an error with priming: >OH, I am sitting here near tears because I bottled and primed 10 >gallons of >wonderful homebrew last week. 5 gallons of an outstanding Hefeweisen, >and >5 gallons of a Bud Clone for my friends who "really" don't like >beer. Much to my horror, in my recent inheritance of another friend's >brewing supplies, I realized I used malto dextrin rather than corn >sugar as >priming sugar. I am a fairly new brewer and wonder if there are some >well >seasoned ones that can offer a suggestion? Michele, I had a time when the priming surgar was not added. I and my partner finished bottling and started to clean everything up and discovered the priming surgar was still in the pyrex measuring cup I used to boil it (with water) in the microwave. I should mention to make sure everyone knows -- malto dextren is unfermentable by beer yeast. So, it won't produce carbonation, assuming there is not some sort of microbe present that can ferment it. It's purpose in brewing is to add body to beer. It took a little work, but this is how I did it. 1) Calculate the number of teaspoons of liquid I had. The priming surgar water that is not the beer. 2) Divide that number by the number of bottles. I think it came out to be close to 1 1/8 tsp per bottle. 3) Remove caps from all of the bottles. 4) Add that 1 1/8 tsp of surgar water to each bottle. Some were so full I could see it would not fit. I had to poor a little of the beer out of the bottle to make room. 5) Recap bottles. The beer did carbonate. In my case it was not a beginner mistake. I had at least 50 batches behind me. It was more of a slip in routine. - Leo ===== Leo Vitt Sidney, NE Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:25:19 +0000 From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Chloramine/Zinc For Doug: The reaction between chlorine and bisulfite is: S2O5-2 + 4Cl + 3H2O --> 2SO4-2 + 6H+ + 4 Cl- With mono chloramine it is: S2O5-2 + 2H2NCl + 3H2O --> 2SO4-2 + 2H+ + 2Cl- + 2NH4+ In either case the bisulfite is oxidized to sulfate and the clorine, while it is not "removed", is reduced to chloride ion. This method of removing chlorine has been used by aquarists for years (though they use thiosulfate rather than bisulfite). With the advent of chloramine they must be sure to have an effective means of removing the ammonium ion/ammonia that is produced. It's a simple thing to check out. Draw a glass of stinky chlorinated or chloraminated water and drop in the corner of a Campden tablet. The chlorine smell will be gone very quickly (to be replaced, perhaps, with a sulfur dioxide smell so only use the tiniest bit of the tablet - one tablet should treat 40 gallons of water containing 3 mg/L chloramine. No water authority would ever intentionally raise its product's pH to as high as 10. The limit is 8.5 in most (international) jurisdictions. Furthermore, such high pH's are to be avoided because they would usually lead to rapid occlusion of the distribution mains. Nor are they necessary. At pH 9 90 - 100% of chloramines are monochloramine. Most water authorities that chloraminate release water with pH's between 6.5 and 8.5. As monochloramine that converts to dichloramine at lower pH cannot escape (the chloramine is usually formed as the water enters the distribution system) you do not have continuous conversion of monochloramine followed by subsequent loss and further conversion. While zinc at too high a level is a curse for yeast (and a low levels a blessing as an enzyme co factor) the main concern with high zinc levels is for the humans in the house. High levels of zinc in well water were frequently caused by corrosion of a brass bushing in the pump. The problem was that this alloy also contained lead so that if one saw high levels of zinc (easy to test for though it does involve a cyanide salt) it often implied lead was present. Zinc can, of course, come from other sources such as galvanized pipe and by now all the brass fittings in wells should have been retrofitted. If, however, you have a well with an old pump and plastic pipe in the ground and copper in the house I'd consult your local well people and/or have a lead test done. If zinc isn't an idicator for lead then there is little to worry about as the MCL is 5 mg/L - lots more than you want for breweing but the health people are unconcerned. Getting zinc out may be a little tricky. You could try running the pH up to 11 or so with slaked lime. This should precipitate zinc hydroxide (it will definitely precipitate magnesium hydroxide, and if you have temporary hardness, some calcium carbonate). Decant the supernatant and bring pH back to a nominal pH level by bubbling air through the water. This will take some time if you are treating a large volume of water as there isn't much CO2 in air. Use of CO2 will speed the process but you'd probably waste a fair amount. Note that this is a way in which the high alkalinity caused by use of lime can be neutralized without adverse flavor effect. The CO2 reacts with calcium hydroxide thus Ca++ + 2(OH)- + CO2 + H2O --> CaCO3 + 2H2O and, of course, the CaCO3 precipitates. Decant again. I've never tried to remove zinc from brewing water in this way but I can attest that flecks of gelatinous precipitate form at high pH in a solution containing zinc ions. Unless you have a means of checking pH and some experience with what DeClerk calls the "split treatment" of water (see HBD archives) for removal of magnesium and carbonate simple dilution with spring, RO or distilled water might be more practical. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:27:29 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: chloramines/chlorine/Campden Tabs, RO chlorine, maltodextrin carbonation Brewsters: Doug Moller emphatically states that Campden Tablets will not remove chloramines and chlorine and that the water supply pH is boosted to pH 10 with slaked lime to stabilize the chloramines. Unless, I misread or misunderstood your comments they are incorrect. I don't know the kinetics of the reaction and it may take place only on the acid side of pH = 7 , but there is definitely a reaction between chlorine and chloramines and sulfite. This would take place as the brewing liquor went acidic. Frankly, I am no public water supply expert, by any means, but I doubt the water supply is pH 10 coming out of the tap, if that is what you meant. Maybe others can confirm or deny. - --------------------- Mike Sharp comments that chlorine can damage RO filters. That may well be the case , but RO is used with chlroinated supplies. In low concentrations and for a short exposure, which my supplier recommends, it doesn't seem to be a problem. Also, the chlorinated water is not consumed, as the RO is allowed to run to flush out the contents before consumption. I'm sure not all membranes are identical, and like I said, follow your manufacturer's directions. I did. - ------------------- Michelle added malto dextrin instead of dextrose to carbonate her beer. Not a problem as this is a relatively small amount of MD. Just add the amount of sugar as a syrup needed for carbonation to each bottle and recap. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:40:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Jason Poll <jtpoll at mtu.edu> Subject: re: Indoor Boiling Bob in Ann Arbor chastized Mike in Madison for not brewing outside: > Come on Mike!!!!! Don't be a "we knee"!!! Brewing outside in the ... > Brew outside!!!! What about the rest of the loyal HBD followers?? Do > you brew inside or outside?? Just wanted to add my name to the list of those in Michigan who brew outside -- I'm just at the opposite end of the state compared to Bob. I live in the Keweenaw peninsula of Michigan, and I've brewed outside for all but one of my brews this winter. I'd say the average HIGH temp of all those brews was _maybe_ around 20, but probably lower, and yes, we still have about about 2 feet of snow on the ground. :-( Highs in the 50's this week, though! Yippee! Such low temps and any breeze/wind don't help with getting 10+ gallons up to a full boil, so I've built a very simple wind shield out of 3 (or is it 4?) foot flashing material. Just a simple ring around the brew pot and burner, lifted off the ground about and inch or so. It works wonders! Hopefully I'll be moving to a house with a brewery, err, garage soon, so I may not have to worry about the wind as much anymore...although the 'heat-jacket' like effect of the wind shield may make it a permanent addition to my brewery equipment. :-) Anyway, brew-on! --Jason Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 10:35:02 -0400 From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: Zn toxicity Doug asks: I received my water test from the J R Peters testing lab and my zinc is at 2 ppm. I have read that anywhere from .5 to 1 ppm is toxic to yeast. I have made beer with the water as is and had no fermentation problems and even stored yeast on slants and slurry from long periods of time without any problems. If I do find it is a problem in the future how can I get rid of the zinc? >Doug, this isn't even /close/ to being toxic (as your own experience indicates). Don't worry about it! -Alan Meeker Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:55:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Brewing outside of the box... Greetings, Beerigns! Take me to your lager... Sir Bob of Barrett spake thusly: > Brew outside!!!! What about the rest of the loyal HBD followers?? Do > you brew inside or outside?? Way back in the day, when I actually had TIME for such thing, I brewd outside, either on the driveway, or, on those too hot sunny days, on the porch. Then I moved it into the garage when I built my brewing rack into its rear wall. (Now, it is a conversation piece for those who stop by, since it ain't "back in the day" no more...) And to my friend Jim, who undoubtedly lurking nearby, I must say: you brew "Pat Stout" better than Pat do. Mmmm, mmm! - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "I don't want a pickle. I just wanna ride on my motorsickle" - Arlo Guthrie Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:15:51 -0500 From: "Mark Kellums" <infidel at springnet1.com> Subject: Re: repackaging hops In HBD 4214, Doug Moyer asks for suggestions on repackaging whole hops for a club bulk buy. Doug, I've also been using a Tilia Foodsaver of one type or another since 1992. It does a fantastic job of helping keep your fresh hops fresh. Besides vacuum packing in bags I'm also able to vacuum pack in jars using the jar attachment. I just finished off a nice APA in which '99 and '00 crop Cascades were used. I use the Foodsaver to vacuum pack specialty grains in jars also. Mark Kellums Decatur Il. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 08:19:46 -0700 From: Scott Perfect <perfect at marzen.llnl.gov> Subject: re: priming lambics In HBD 4211, Don asked about bottling a p-lambic: "My question is how much priming sugar would be good for the 'methode champenoise'. I am planning to use champagne bottles with plastic stoppers, wire, etc. Just a guess from past bottling experiences, about a cup of corn sugar? Perhaps I should consider kraesening. Anyone with experience in this area?" I have had success using a cup of DME. Allow about two months for the carbonation to develop. Corn sugar is more likely to be consumed by bacteria, leaving you without much carbonation. Incidently, this forum has adopted the term pseudo-lambic (p-lambic) for attempts at the style made outside the traditional region around Brussels, Belgium. Scott A. Perfect San Ramon, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:40:05 -0500 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: indoor brewing Bob Barrett writes from the relative balminess of Michigan: > Come on Mike!!!!! Don't be a "we knee"!!! Brewing outside > in the winter is fun!!!! My wife and I brewed six > consecutive weekends this year starting on January 11!!!! We > live in Ann Arbor, Michigan. We're not exactly the > tropical paradise of the Great Lakes!!! The average highs on > those days > were 26.88F and the average lows were 14.36F. Get some fresh > air!!! Brew outside!!!! What about the rest of the loyal HBD > followers?? Do you brew inside or outside?? Fresh air my Aspartame! With a typical winter high of -20C (that's about 4 below for the measurement system challenged), that's just a bit too bruddy fresh for me! On a really cold day, the only thing undergoing a rolling boil was my temperament. I've switched to indoor brewing, either with my 6000W electric kettle in the basement, or doing concentrated boils on my kitchen cook top. And I think I'm going to abandon the latter because I just don't believe it is giving me the quality I want. The big rig NEEDS venting. The only thing that keeps the basement from becoming a sauna is I set it up to run in the house stairwell. The other two floors get well humidified, but the basement stays livable. Gotta work on a venting solution. SWMBO is not a happy camper on brew days, I'll tell you. Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [819 miles, 313.8 deg] aka Winterpeg Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 09:01:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: Hops growing To anyone who grows hops: I live in missouri, and i put my hops rhizomes out at the beginning of april, the weather here was in the 70s and it looked like spring was here. This week the daytime high is in the 40s, and the lows are dipping below freezing. my hops had little starts when i planted them. did I kill my rhyzomes? Am I out of luck for this season? and order more to try again? michael ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:45:56 -0700 From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Fixing excess iron problems Jeff Renner asks for clarification on my posting about fixing excess iron problems >Usually, it's an old steel well casing that's responsible for excess >iron, but yours is new...unless you have iron pipe in your house >distribution. That might be worth looking into... "Could you say more about this? It certainly does not seem to be the case in this part of the country - iron is simply a natural part of the ground water, and I think this is common elsewhere." I don't doubt there are plenty of places where there is iron dissolved in the aquifer. However, I think world-wide, the main cause of iron in drinking water is from steel or iron piping systems, including old well casings. New casings are plastic (at least the ones I've seen). Most of my water and wastewater experience is on the US west coast, and in a number of coastal and maritime environments elsewhere (by maritime, I mean way out at sea!). My information comes from a couple of technical books on the subject of water treatment, and my own experience. In any case, it probably doesn't matter where the iron comes from; it's in the OP's water, and should be removed. Manganese green sand filtration is the way to do that. Regards, Mike Sharp Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 12:38:23 -0600 From: "Mike Racette" <mike.racette at hydro-gardens.com> Subject: dan listermann Yesterday Stephen Hetrick posted: I would like to publicly thank Mr. Listermann for a special favor. I posted on his site that I had lost one of the plugs for my sparger (during its first use, no less...). I wanted to know where I could get a replacement, and Mr. Listermann asked for my mailing address. Less than a week later I received 4 replacement plugs from him. He did this without asking for any kind of compensation for the postage. Needless to say, he just gained a customer for life. Once again, thank you! Hmmm... this same exact thing happened to me (except not with the first use) and I also swore allegiance as a customer for life. You don't suppose .........................nah! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 12:54:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Beaverplt <beaverplt at yahoo.com> Subject: Brewing inside Mike in Madison asks about brewing inside and Bob from Ann Arbor asks what the rest of us do. I'm mostly a lurker, but I have to chime in here. Bob, I have to wonder if Ann Arbor somehow was relocated to Montana, Wyoming or (gasp) the Upper Peninsula. What you do sounds more like survivalist brewing. The next thing we know the FBI, CIA and the DEA will be invading your compound because you brewed something so radical as a CAP or IPA. I've been comfortable brewing in my kitchen as long as I've been brewing. I don't know if it's still there, but SWMBO and I bought a used commercial stove from a place that deals in used restaurant equipment that is located in Galena, Illinois. Mike, I don't know what scale you brew at, but the BTU's on what I have are more than enough for the 5 gallon batches I tend to do. I actually will be putting it up for sale shortly because SWMBO just bought a new dual-fuel stove with a gas stove top. One of the burners has enough BTU's to send the next space shuttle up. The biggest problem I can see is getting the bugger down into a basement. These things are heavy. ===== Jerry "Beaver" Pelt Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 15:35:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Carmel (sic) Porter Darrell asked about making a "Carmel Perter." Darrell, are you talking about the seaside resort town in California? Don't know what connection that would have to a Porter... If you mean a CarAmel Porter, you could either boil for a very long time while adding back wort or water to maintain volume, or reserve the first gallon or so of runnings and boil it down to carAmelize it, then add it back to the main boil. Kent Fletcher brewing in SoCal Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:49:55 -0800 From: "Jason Lindner" <jason at admin5.fastmail.fm> Subject: Cooling off the wort I brew in Southern California, not as hot as true desert, but still pretty warm. I went the cheapest possible method to cool down my beer. I bought a small, broken fridge second-hand, the type a college kid would keep in his dorm room. It didn't run at all, but that didn't matter, I got it for $20 and it is just an insulated box about the size of my carboy. I had to take the plastic shelving off the door to make enough room to fit the carboy in there, in fact. I put it in the shade, and bought a bunch of those freezer packs like people use in coolers, the type that are just bags filled with a gel substance. The freezer packs cost about $1 each. Stick the carboy in the minifridge with some freezer packs. It'll cool right down and stay cool. I can regulate the temperature nicely by changing the amount of freezer packs in the fridge and their location (right up against the carboy or up in the chiller tray). As a matter of fact, I'm currently managing to lager with this setup! As long as I keep changing those freezer packs every morning and put four of them right on the carboy, I can get the temperature down to 40 or below. It's not as perfect as a real fridge with an external thermometer would be, but to me, being able to brew with "homemade" equipment is even more fun. It's sort of like the old days when they would brew a lager in an icehouse. The whole setup cost me under $40. You could probably just as easily use a big cylindrical cooler or a rectangular cooler stood up on its side as a little fridge, but my little broken fridge lets me swing open the door and check the temperature very easily, and it creates a great seal to keep the interior cold. > Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 17:08:44 +0000 > From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpumonkey at hotmail.com> > Subject: Cooling Off the Wort > Eventually, I'll invest in a chest freezer and one of the funky external > thermostats (I want to do that anyway to get into lagering). However, in > the mean time, I'd like to find a way of cooling my wort. > I'm sure there are some other desert brewers here. Does anybody have a > good, cost effective, low-tech way to cool their fermentors? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 18:16:18 -0500 From: Matthew Arnold <marnold at ez-net.com> Subject: Re: Indoor Boiling >What is the best method for boiling wort indoors in a basement? I want to >go to 12 gallon batches and move to all grain brewing, but boiling outside >in the winter won't be pretty in Wisconsin. I live farther north than you do (Oconto Falls, 1/2 hour north of Green Bay) and always boil outside. Granted, I'm in my garage, but the door is open. My personal record was a couple of Januarys ago. I boiled my wort while the actual temperature was -12F (-24.4C). The steam from the kettle formed this cool column that rose up to the rafters in my garage. Once the rafters filled, it billowed out the garage door. Very cool. Matt Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 19:26:45 -0500 From: "nlkanous " <nlkanous at mail.pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Yarrow in beer Anybody got any experience with using yarrow in beer? I'm curious. I made a tea of it last night and it was much more herbal than I'd read. What quantities have folks used in what volume of wort? What were the results? TIA. nathan Return to table of contents
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