HOMEBREW Digest #4372 Mon 13 October 2003

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Gravity samples, decarbonating (Christopher Swingley)
  head retention (darrell.leavitt)
  Has anyone noticed this before? (darrell.leavitt)
  Re: Hops and Dogs (Travis Dahl KE4VYZ)
  Aereation of wort ("Kenneth Peters")
  Forum and New BeerSmith Release ("Brad Smith")
  AHA & Zymurgy Subscription ("Reddy, Pat")
  Flax/Bad Beer ("Chad Stevens")
  Re:  Beer in Chicago ("mark_zgarrick")
  Confessions of a swill drinking homebrewer ("Jason Pavento")
  Concentration of gelatin in yeast slant ("Robert Jones")
  Haze in dark beer, overnight mashing, and more! (Michael)

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 21:46:59 -0800 From: Christopher Swingley <cswingle at iarc.uaf.edu> Subject: Gravity samples, decarbonating Greetings, A couple digests ago a couple people mentioned decarbonating post-pitched wort (beer?) samples before measuring gravity. I'd never really thought much about it, but the concept made sense to me -- if it's still carbonated, little bubbles will collect or form on the hydrometer and raise the vial, making the gravity seem higher than it really is. At least that was my hypothesis. Today I took samples from a smoked porter, three weeks into fermentation, SG 1.064; and from a brown ale, two weeks into fermentation, SG 1.042. I measured the gravities at 1.017 and 1.010 respectively. The fermentation temperatures are between 62 - 68, meaning the corrected gravities are, at their highest, 1.018 and 1.011. Sounded reasonable for a final gravity using the ballpark SG / 4 metric that I can do in my head. I typically "bounce" the hydrometer on the bottom of the plastic sample tube, and then spin it in the hopes this may knock bubbles off and keep them off while I'm reading the gravity. Next, I put the samples in the microwave, each for a minute and a half. When removed they were bubbling slightly and had reached 180 F (not boiling). They cooled for a couple hours and I took gravity readings again: 1.020 and 1.012 at 60 F! There goes my bubble hypothesis. Any other explanations? At this point, I'm inclined to simple measure the carbonated samples, and use the same "anti-bubble" techniques I have been using. Thanks! Chris P.S. heating beer up to 180 F in the microwave doesn't smell that good - -- Christopher S. Swingley email: cswingle at iarc.uaf.edu IARC -- Frontier Program Please use encryption. GPG key at: University of Alaska Fairbanks www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 06:43:47 -0400 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: head retention You probably already know this, but just in case you don't,...if one uses a pound or so of malted wheat, or flaked wheat in the mash, and if you avoid the 113->131F Protein Rest "corridor" then this will increase head retention...I believe... Happy Brewing! ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 06:53:27 -0400 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Has anyone noticed this before? I use a 10 gallon PolarWare pot for mash-lauter, as well as kettle...and I'd say every several batches I clean some of the scorching off of the bottom...Well, yesterday I noticed that it needed cleaning, but I was not in the mood....I used the pot to take 5 gallons of lovely California Merlot juice up to 170F...for 1/2 hour, before cooling and pitching some 116 yeast onto it.... Well,...in cleaning the pot out I noticed that acidity, or something in the wine juice made most of the caked on stuff come off very easily...Has anyone an explanation for this phenomenon? Also, while I am on the subject: if you don't want to use sulphites, what do others do to kill the wild yeast and bacteria,...or need one be concerned? I know one fellow who just puts an airlock onto the 5 gallon pail that the juice comes in,...and lets it naturally ferment...but I would rather introduce the yeast of my choice...but don't want to use sulphites... Pardon the slighly marginal post...from beer to wine... Happy Brewing! ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 08:28:11 -0400 From: Travis Dahl KE4VYZ <dahlt at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Hops and Dogs John Adsit points out: >MTE Nutrition advertises a product to reduce anxiety in dogs that contains >both brewers yeast and hops. So, basically, if a dog is anxious and neurotic I should just give them a beer and say "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!" Wow, saves me a trip to the pet psychologist _and_ and I can get rid of the questionable bottles in my basement. <grin> -Travis [1.8, 98.3] Apparent Rennerian A.K.A. Ann Arbor, MI, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 08:05:13 -0500 From: "Kenneth Peters" <kpeters6 at cox.net> Subject: Aereation of wort On the Lallemand website in their procedure for yeast rehydration, http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/danstarrehyd.html , the last comment listed under Step 3 states that aeration of the wort is not necessary. This seems to fly in the face of all that I have read in the past. Does this only apply to when using dry yeast? Is this just an attempt to make the process look simple to encourage beginners, or am I taking this statement out of context? Any thoughts on this? Ken Peters Tucats Brewery Harrah, Ok Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 09:26:37 -0400 From: "Brad Smith" <beersmith at beersmith.com> Subject: Forum and New BeerSmith Release We have also opened a general discussion forum for brewing topics at: http://www.beersmith.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi We have also released a new version of BeerSmith: http://www.beersmith.com New features include refractometer tools, arbitrary unit entry, better international support and more. Here are the new features: http://www.beersmith.com/whats_new_in_1_2.htm Cheers! Brad Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 08:32:26 -0500 From: "Reddy, Pat" <Pat.Reddy at mavtech.cc> Subject: AHA & Zymurgy Subscription Has anyone else had subscription troubles like I'm having? I joined the AHA and never received my Zymurgy subscription. Eventually they got things straightened out - or so they said - and I received 3 back issues and a subscription the following month, then - nothing. I haven't seen anything in several months. When did the last issue come out? Was it a good one? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 09:54:02 -0700 From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net> Subject: Flax/Bad Beer Jim Steinbrunner asks: Point 2: I have recently become more interested in fiber for reasons I won't go into >:^O . The mucilaginous coating on flaxseed that Chad mentioned is high in soluble fiber, which is good for digestive health, but may not be very appealing to add to one's diet (think Metamucil). Reply: For foam stability purposes, were talking about pentose sugar additions on the order of .05 to .1 %. This translates to about 3 oz of flax seed (the coating makes up about 10% of the seed by weight) in a five gallon batch (my calcs are rough, that could be off by 100% or more). There are about 9 teaspoons in an ounce of flax X 3 = 27 teaspoons in a five gallon batch or about 1/2 teaspoon per 12 oz bottle. Pentose sugars do not affect viscosity appreciably until you reach about the 1% level or ten times more than we are talking about using. Being concerned about cholesterol and regularity (I could start the gyno thread going again if y'all'd prefer) I eat one tablespoon of flax with breakfast each morning. This is enough to get the good oil (omega-3 fatty acids) I want and not so much that it's got me flowin' like a fire hydrant. So at the dosing rate I'm playing with, you'd have to drink six brews to equal the amount of flax I'm consuming on a daily basis with little laxative affect. FWIW - ------ from: "Martin Brungard" <Martin.Brungard at trow.com> Subject: Bland Beer All this talk of bad beer is somewhat silly. Saying that brewers like the Budmilloors of the world make bad beer is ludicrous. Reply: You are absolutely right. I'm sorry I called Bud a bad beer. It was "bland" to style. And you won't find Wonder Bread in my house either. Guess it's the old subjectivity of quality thing (for all you "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" fans). Cheers, Chad Stevens QUAFF San Diego Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 00:11:15 -0500 From: "mark_zgarrick" <mark_zgarrick at ameritech.net> Subject: Re: Beer in Chicago Hey Rick, Andrew C mentioned the Goose Island brewpubs, and I totally agree. I'd hit the Clybourn location, as it is the original. They always have at least 12 different brews on tap, as well as something special on the beer engine. Chicago has a lot of great beer bars as well. A very short cab ride from Goose Island is The Map Room, at 1949 N. Hoyne (corner of Hoyne and Armitage). The Map Room specializes in Belgians, but they offer other excellent imports and micros. Here's what they currently have on tap... http://www.maproom.com/beer.htm. I don't think you'll find anything down by McCormick Place, so plan on cabbing it around. Even if you just go to The Map Room and/or Goose Island, you will not be disappointed. Cheers, Mark Z, Chicago Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 08:09:36 -0700 From: "Jason Pavento" <jpavento at entravision.com> Subject: Confessions of a swill drinking homebrewer I am a home brewer, beer snob and craft beer drinker and I would like to proclaim that I have been known to consume COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF BUD LIGHT and I'm PROUD OF IT. I am tired of posts that go like this: "Oh, Father Yeastie I had 2 Labbatt Blue's at a party the other day. I am so sorry for what I've done. Will St. Saaz ever forgive me?" "Yes, my son. Recite the Reinheitsgebot seven times and drink 3 Chimay Reds and your sins shall be forgiven." I like to go to dive bars (more my kind of atmosphere than sports/yuppie bars) and Bud Light is what I will drink when I'm there rather than pay the price for whatever, most likely, -OLD- 'craft' beer selection they have (usually just crap like Killians or *shudder* Sam Light). Or sometimes I just don't feel like paying $7 or $8 for a six-pack. I prefer to keep my beer options open and will drink a wide range of styles from a wide range of brewers rather than confine myself to only drinking 'Belgians from Trappist Monasteries' or some such silliness. For me, that's the same as saying "I only listen to pure Norwegian Black Metal". Sure, you get to call yourself a "Real" Black Metal fan, but you miss out on so much more. As far as beer selection in restaurants goes, maybe I'm lucky, but most places I go -at least- have Harpoon IPA (YUM!) so I am usually taken care of. I also don't think you should be embarrassed to ask for a recitation of the beers available. If you are a beer snob - BE PROUD OF IT AND STOP WHINING. Again, maybe I'm really lucky, but off the top of my head I can think of at least 3 restaurants/bars with real good beer selections in my area. My favorite is Union in Weymoth, MA. They have a beer menu with 100+ beers on it and a "99 Beer" club. When you finish 99 beers you get a plaque on the wall with a quote from you engraved on it (mine said "Katie, will you marry me?" - yes, I am the coolest person you don't know.) Also there is The Horseshoe Pub in Hudson ("No crap on tap") and Sunset in Boston (over 100 taps and an awesome beer menu). Sorry for the venomous, opinion fueled post, none of it is directed at any one person - just at the thought that we all have to be beer snobs and that the ones that are have to feel embarrassed by it. I was just gettin' tired of hearin' about it. Jay If it's beer - IT'S _ALL_ GOOD Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 11:31:13 -0700 From: "Robert Jones" <brew.oregon at comcast.net> Subject: Concentration of gelatin in yeast slant I'm trying my hand at yeast culturing for the first time, but a few questions are in order. I researched it pretty well, using teflon lined screw cap vials, processing them for 20 minutes in a steam bath. Instead of a loop, a microbiologist friend recommended I just use sterilized toothpicks (it's what they use in their lab - just put them in your autoclave/steam bath/pressure cooker/etc. along with your vials with media). I innocculated the slants about 4 days ago from a wyeast tube, and I now have definite little colonies growing, all are off-white, uniform in color and circular (at least where they aren't bunched up running into each other). I made up my media using 1 cup of 1040 wort and 2 packets of knox unflavored gelatin. This made a nice firm slant, but after seeing many recipes they call for only about half that much. Are there negative effects from using gelatin at this higher concentration? For example, will it slow their growth, or should I just not worry? One last question - judging the progress so far, I don't think it will cover the surface of the slant within a few more days (1 week total at room temp). Should I just refrigerate what I have, or let it sit another week at room temp? This is the California Lager #2112 by the way. Thanks, Robert Jones Portland, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 22:33:26 -0500 From: Michael <grice at binc.net> Subject: Haze in dark beer, overnight mashing, and more! I've noticed that, while my pale ales and lagers might have a little chill haze (especially since I can't seem to remember to either rehydrate the Irish moss or add it at the appropriate time), my dark beers almost always have had a permanent haze. I'm talking chocolate milk here. The one exception I can think of was a partial mash, the last beer I made before I went all-grain. This includes a couple of porters, another stout and a porter-like brown (against 6-7 pale ales, 3-4 other ales and a lager). I can think of a couple of reasons why I'm getting the haze. Besides my Irish moss problems, I believe the wort is going through my counter-flow chiller too quickly and I'm not getting enough of a cold break. I think the brown wound up at 90 degrees after cooling, in fact. I have to wonder, though, if there isn't something in the mash chemistry that causes this (especially since the lone exception was a partial mash). The only consistent thing I've done in the mash is to add the dark grains with the pale malt, which would lower the pH of the malt. Nothing else is consistent--sparging technique or even water. I started using bottled water in there somewhere, and it happens regardless of whether or not I do batch sparging or whether I don't sparge at all. Any thoughts, oh mighty beer gurus? Is this a coincidence (there are admittedly a lot of variables unaccounted for here). Should I add the specialty grains at sparging? Should I use a quick protein rest? Should I trust that improvements in my cooling technique will solve the problem (or at least reduce it to a chill haze)? Do I need to watch my mash pH more carefully? The last one would surprise me. I'll probably degas the brown ale and fine it with polyclar or whatever the approriate fining agent is. ******************************************************************** On another note, I posted a few months ago that I had made a pilsener with an overnight mash. The basic procedure is to bring it to just boiling, cover it, then let it sit overnight before finishing it the next day. By bringing it just to a boil, I am in effect pasteurizing the wort. To my taste, I can't find any flaws in this beer I can attribute to the mashing procedure. It's not as crisp as I'd like, but I didn't use as large a starter as I would have liked either. It's a little dark for the style, but then again I used darker specialty grains than are usually used. Admittedly, the process might result in slightly darker beers because I am bringing the wort to a boil twice. So it may not be appropriate for all styles. And yes, the pilsener does have a slight chill haze. ******************************************************************** Oh, and does anybody have a recipe for Bell's Third Coast Beer they'd like to share? I saw the recipe for the Third Coast Old Ale in the last Zymurgy, but they're not the same beer. ******************************************************************** Oh, and I also got my copy of the latest edition of Noonan's "Brewing New Lager Beer" last week. I haven't done more than skim through it, but it does indeed look like a nice book for the intermediate to advanced brewer. Michael in Middleton, WI Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 10/13/03, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96