HOMEBREW Digest #511 Fri 05 October 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: EDME bashing (Dale Veeneman)
  Cider techniques (Terry Noe)
  re. Ale Ails (mage!lou)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #510 (October 04, 1990) (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary))
  Edme dry yeast (sandven)
  mead, acid blend ??'s (BRWJ)
  Re:  Washington, DC area microbreweries (John DeCarlo)
  The Beer Hunter (John DeCarlo)
  Anchor Brewing (John DeCarlo)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #507 (October 01, 1990) (summers)
  Whine and Brew By You (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  boil that infection! (Russ Gelinas)
  Lager Results / Artificial Carb. (dreger)
  Thermomiter (Doug Bonar)
  yeast culturing (Brian Smithey)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 04 Oct 90 08:29:43 EDT From: Dale Veeneman <dev1 at gte.com> Subject: Re: EDME bashing In HBD #510, krweiss writes about a batch that used EDME yeast, "There was no carbonation for some time, and then everything slowly became overcarbonated." If you will recall, last spring I had a number of questions about gradual overcarbonation (and also tiny bubbles that would start up after a couple weeks in the secondary) - symptoms that appeared beginning last January. After changing everything, I finally switched from EDME dry yeast (which I had been using exclusively), to Wyeast. Guess what? No more overcarbonation - no more tiny bubbles late in the secondary. An additional benefit is that I enjoy the flavor of the brew produced by the Wyeast. (I'm culturing the yeast to mitigate the $4.59/bag price - I think it's great to have a library of different cultures sitting in slants in the back of the fridge.) Dale Veeneman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 7:24:15 PDT From: Terry Noe <terry at hpsadlu.hp.com> Subject: Cider techniques Full-Name: Terry Noe Over the past few days, there has been some discussion of making hard cider in the HBD. My experiments with cider have not, to date, turned out real well. It's getting to be that apple-harvesting time of year again, so I'd like to see if anyone out there has some good recipes or techniques to suggest. When I tried hardening some cider last year, I simply pitched a big glob of yeast (Wyeast Irish Ale) from my primary into a gallon jug of fresh cider. In a week or so, I had some halfway-hard cider that was pretty drinkable. The problem was getting the fermentation to stop. Before long, however, the cider fermented out so completely as to be (almost) undrinkable. The residual flavor left when the sugars had gone was very bitter. What some folks have suggested over the last few days in this digest is to add lots of sugars to the cider. When the alcohol content gets high enough, the yeast die, and your fermentation stops. Well, that's certainly one approach. Does anyone have any other ideas? Terry Noe Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 08:42:22 MDT From: hplabs!mage!lou Subject: re. Ale Ails In HBD #509 Jeff Blackman discusses a possible infection problem and wonders about the source. >The second may be storage of the carboys between batches. After brewing, >I clean the carboy and then fill it with a fairly strong bleach/water >solution (stronger than my usual sanitization solution). At brewing time, >I just rinse out the carboy (assuming that the bleach solution has kept >the carboy sanitized during storage). Is this an incorrect assumption? This describes the method I use for sanitizing my carboys although I just drain the leftover sanitizing solution after bottling into the now-empty carboy and seal it up. I've never had any problem. However, you didn't mention how you closed off the carboy while it's in storage. Mine have screw-on plastic caps so after I drain the sanitizing solution into the carboy, I just screw on a sanitized plastic cap and put it away. If the carboy is not tightly sealed, the chlorine will come out of solution and escape. There is also the question of how you sanitized the lip of the carboy and covered it to prevent anything from falling on it (or into the carboy after the chlorine is gone. Louis Clark mage!lou at ncar.ucar.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 09:01 CDT From: gary at sci34hub.sci.com (Gary Heston (sci34hub!gary)) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #510 (October 04, 1990) In HOMEBREW Digest #510, A. E. Mossberg told us: >Sandy and Craig of Wine and Brew By You have started up a Wholesale >Homebrew Club. You may have seen the ad in Zymurgy. For $2 they send >you an information packet (which I have here) that shows some sample >prices and gives details of the club, and has a membership >application. Joining the club at $25 gets you their wholesale catalog. >Here's a couple prices from their information packet: > [price/ordering info and phone number deleted ] Isn't this the place that doesn't want to have anything to do with us computer-thingy cheapskate ignorant college kids? The very same place that shipped someone Wyeast that was 9 months past the marked date? And now they want us all to join their club? Fat chance...... (I'm 35 and have never attended a day of college in my life, and strongly resent the implication that I have! :-) ) Then, Mike Fertsch <FERTSCH at adc1.adc.ray.com> quoted Jay Hersch at compuserve as having said: >> ..... This recipe sounds like a real killer. Is it even legal to >> make anything that strong at home??? > >Practically, no matter how much fermentables are in a wort, the alcohol >content will not exceed 15% - yeasts simply get drunk, try to drive, and >you got dead yeast. 15% alcohol is certainly in the legal range. The >recipe described above will probably remain very sweet, because the yeast >will die before the cider dries out. If that's the goal, it sounds pretty >good! I think the prohibition is against the process of distillation, not a limit on naturally fermented content. If anyone develops a strain of yeast that'll keep going, let me know..... On a side note, several months ago someone mentioned testing their brew with an "alcohol vinometer" or something of the sort, to determine alcohol content. All my attempts at email bounced, so (since I'm already sending this in) does anyone out there know what one of those is, how much they cost, and where one could be acquired? The mead is in secondary, and both batches are fairly still. More news as tasting progresses.... :-) Gary Heston gary at sci34hub.sci.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 10:13:54 MDT From: sandven at hooey.unm.edu Subject: Edme dry yeast Just a quick one on Edme dry yeast. Both myself and another local homebrewer have been using Edme dry yeast, and have both had slight to severe problems with gushers, and even hand grenades. ( One sunday morning I got a dark beer shower while trying to lessen the effects of the previous nights indulgances ) I would guess that although we are novice brewers, the yeast was at least partly responsible for the problems - mainly since we were both especially careful about cleanliness to ensure a good initial exposure to homebrewing ;^). Our first thought was that we were overpriming, but in fact we were using 3/4 cup of dry malt extract, and so were probably underpriming. So - we are both switching to Wyeast to combat this problem, and also to make clearer and better tasting beer. Steve ( sandven at wayback.unm.edu ) P.S. I lift a great big mug o' stout to all who responded to my queries about priming and the Edme/Wyeast question. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 13:36 EST From: BRWJ at VAX5.CIT.CORNELL.EDU Subject: mead, acid blend ??'s In looking over some recipes for mead and cyser recipes, I've come across the advice to use an acid test kit and acid blend to adjust the honey-juice mix to .4 or .5 percent acid. Now let's say I have a pH meter and I don't want to plunk down 5 bucks for a cheap titration kit. Can I assume that the .4-.5 percent "acid" refers to the concentration of hydrogen ions and thus refers to pH 2.3-2.4? Doug also asks about the weight/volume ratio of honey. 3 lbs./quart seems to be the standard, although I suspect the actual weight varies from honey to honey. Jackie BITNET: brwj at crnlvax5 Return to table of contents
Date: Thursday, 4 Oct 1990 13:55:42 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Washington, DC area microbreweries After catching up with the Digest, my brain is foggy, so I don't remember who brought up this topic. However, I do have some notes to add to the discussion. BURP (Brewers United for Real Potables) organized a tour of the Old Dominion Brewing Co. (Dominion Lager). I have to say that it is a good, decent lager, though not outstanding. Apparently they didn't want to taste anything like Gold Cup. Anyway, I found everything very interesting, especially the fact that they have continued to reuse the yeast from one batch to the next, with no deterioration yet (according to lab tests). They run the beer through a filter before kegging or bottling. However, a local establishment has asked them to make the exact same beer without any filtering--keeping all the yeast in. We had a taste of it and it was *wonderful*! In particular, the head was nice and chewy. I could literally enjoy a cup of foam of this. So, it seems that the market for more interesting variations continues, even when the micros stick to lagers. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Thursday, 4 Oct 1990 13:57:01 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: The Beer Hunter Just wanted to ask and find out if anyone has ordered and received the videotape. I will spend the money gladly if there is more on there than was broadcast on The Discovery Channel. John "Thanks" DeCarlo Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Thursday, 4 Oct 1990 14:00:34 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Anchor Brewing So, the episode of The Beer Hunter that convered Anchor Brewing mentions that only one yeast is used. A tour I took on the 28th of September this year (last Friday) mentioned that they use two yeasts--a lager yeast for the Steam and the Porter and an ale yeast for the Liberty Ale, the Wheat, and the Barley Wine. I specifically asked about the "one yeast" theory and was told it wasn't true any more (actually for a while, since they started making Liberty Ale). John "Just wanting to fuel another controversy :-)" DeCarlo Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 14:37:33 -0400 From: summers at math.ufl.edu Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #507 (October 01, 1990) Can you *please* *PLEASE* remove me from this list!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 12:42:20 mdt From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Whine and Brew By You Thanks for reminding me Andrew, that I should post a short note regarding my adventures with Craig of Wine and Brew By You. It appears that Craig didn't like my posting (although every word was true) and although I sent the entire order back to WBBY (I have a registered mail reply card as proof) I have not received a credit for the 24.03 that I was charged. A call to WBBY resulted in Craig hanging up on me as soon as I identified myself. Well, I'm sure that my letter to First Card Visa with a Cc to Craig should clear up this obviously uninitentional oversight. From now on, I plan to buy only from reputable dealers like Lil' Olde Winemaking Shoppe in Sugar Grove, IL and Winemakers in Elmhurst, IL. Al. P.S. I wonder what UPS charges for a 100lb. bag of sugar? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 13:21 EST From: <R_GELINA%UNHH.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU> (Russ Gelinas) Subject: boil that infection! Someone recently wondered if leaving bleach in a carboy between batches would keep it clean. The clorine will evaporate some, but I'm pretty sure nothing would grow in it. I'm not sure you wouldn't get a just-as-clean or cleaner carboy by using a bleach solution in the carboy an hour before brewing, and you then you wouldn't have to worry about it *:-). But regarding the infection you (your beer) got, I would recommend changing your plastic tubing. I had a similar problem that I traced to the tubing I used to transfer from primary to seconday; I had used it *once* as a blow-off tube, and even though I *really* cleaned it, I could see later that it was not clean enough. Don't throw the "bad" batch away yet. I saved my infected batch by boiling it again. Yes, I boiled it again after it had sat in the secondary for 3 weeks! I figured what the heck, it's all one big experiment anyway! WARNING: Partially-fermented beer is more likely to boil over than is unfermented wort. It happened to me, and there isn't an obvious "break", although after awhile you can tell it won't boil over anymore (I guess after it has been boiled flat). So I boiled it, and treated it like unfermented wort: cooled it, pitched dry yeast, and back into a clean carboy. Disclaimer: This was one *strange* batch, so I don't guarantee anything. It started about 1.060, I pitched a partially inflated pack of Wyeast, and the brew got stuck at 1.040. Then it got the infection. Then I boiled it and pitched, but the EDME dry yeast (rehydrated) did not catch, so I bottled it after a couple of days. That was 2 weeks ago. It tastes very good, sweet like a Mackeson stout (I think that's the right name), and a little flat (it might be getting better), but the result is much, much better than if I had tossed it down the drain. I called it "American Twice-Cooked Sweet Stout". Much thanks to Pete S. for consulting services. Why the EDME did not catch is up for grabs....... Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 12:17:42 PDT From: dreger at seismo.gps.caltech.edu Subject: Lager Results / Artificial Carb. Hello - A while back I asked what the best way to brew a lager beer, and found out as my reading suggested many various methods. The one I followed was to start my WYEAST #2042 (Danish) at room temperature (75-80F) in a small starter. When the starter was ready I pitched it into my cooled Wort (75-80F). About six hours later the airlock was showing activity and put the fermentation vessel (pl. bucket) in the refridgerator at 42F. The ambient temperature during fermentation was between 45 to 55 F. After one week I siphoned into a carboy and let the beer ferment at 38F for about two weeks. I kegged 3 gal and bottled 2 gal after 3.5 weeks fermentation. The tastes great and is very clean. I used the following recipe for those who are interested. 3.3 lbs Northwester Malt extract 1.0 lbs light dry malt 0.5 lbs munich (mashed with klages) 2.0 lbs klages 1.0 oz Hallertauer 5.1 alpha 0.25 oz Nugget 11.0 alpha the above hops were boiled 1 hr. 1.0 oz hallertauer finishing Although this beer tastes great, there are two things I will do next time to improve it. First more bitterness, perhaps 10-11 HBU's. Second more malt. On the subject of artificial carbonation I have found that I get very good results simply by pressurizing my tank to about 12 - 16 lbs and letting it sit in the refridgerator for about 3 days. I also dispense at this pressure and have absolutely no problem with foaming. Of course the pressure I use is dependent on the temperature of the fridge. Doug Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 15:55:37 EDT From: bonar at math.rutgers.edu (Doug Bonar) Subject: Thermomiter A friend of mine is interested in a switch controlled by a thermomiter. It has to be able to be set to turn on at ~40F, and it should be water proof. Does anyone have any recomendations of who might make such an item, and where you might get it? I'm asking y'all since I seem to remember that the thermomiters people here talk about putting on their beer fridges might do the trick. Doug bonar at math.rutgers.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 90 15:14:53 PDT From: smithey at hulder.css.gov (Brian Smithey) Subject: yeast culturing In digest #510, Mike Schrempp asks if the same yeasts are used for fermentation and conditioning, especially in the case of Chimay and Sierra Nevada. I can't vouch for Chimay, but I asked this very question when at the Sierra Nevada brewery earlier this summer, after having fermented a brown ale with yeast cultured from SN Pale Ale. The answer was yes, the same strain of yeast is used to bottle condition the ales, although the beer is filtered before bottling and new yeast is added. Brian - -- Brian Smithey / SAIC, Geophysics Division / San Diego CA uucp: uunet!seismo!esosun!smithey Internet: smithey at esosun.css.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #511, 10/05/90 ************************************* -------
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