HOMEBREW Digest #552 Fri 07 December 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Chimay yeast (Spencer W. Thomas)
  red ale or ESB recipes? (Jon Rodin)
  Continental Pilsner by DAVID Miller (flowers)
  Kegging (Jay Hersh)
  English beverages (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  English berverages and keg sanitation (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Re: lagering outside (mike schrempp) (Jeffrey R Blackman)
  Its dead jim? (Bill Crick)
  chimay (BAUGHMANKR)
  thanks & addresses (Joe Uknalis)
  Re: Pasteurized extract (Marc Rouleau)
  Foxx Beverage ("John Cotterill")
  SN yeast changes type... (Todd Enders - WD0BCI )
  Through-the-door faucets (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #551 (December 06, 1990) (Bob Clark - Sun Engineering)
  Re: Oh God, not Al vs. Stainless again!!! (Marc Rouleau)
  Reinheitsgebot (Oran Carmona)
  Reconditioned Kegs (Duane Smith)
  Re: WYeast American Ale Yeast (Ken Giles)
  Why so few alcoholic beverages? (Marc Rouleau)
  growing hops (wicinski)
  Beer body (mcnally)
  Patriotic Duty... (indi)
  Radler (Norm Hardy)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 03:27:50 EST From: Spencer W. Thomas <spencer at crim.eecs.umich.edu> Subject: Chimay yeast Those of us who saw the "Beerhunter" episode on Chimay know that it is brewed with a very pure (monoclonal, if you want to get technical) yeast that was isolated (if my memory is correct) in the early 1950's by the current brewmaster. =Spencer W. Thomas EECS Dept, U of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 spencer at eecs.umich.edu 313-936-2616 (8-6 E[SD]T M-F) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 8:05:00 MST From: Jon Rodin <jar at hpcndpc.cnd.hp.com> Subject: red ale or ESB recipes? Anyone have any good red ale or ESB recipes to share? Extract recipes prefered. Thanks. Jon Rodin j_rodin at cnd.hp.com (303) 229 2474 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 09:56:51 CST From: flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu Subject: Continental Pilsner by DAVID Miller I think Norm Hardy's 'review' of Continental Pilsner was a bit harsh. It has driven me to offer my opinions. First of all, the author is David Miller not Larry. Second, I too am a fan of lagers and read Miller's The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing yet I found Continental Pilsner refreshing, well written and informative. Personally, I liked it better than the first book in the series: Pale Ale. Third, I also purchased the book early but my pre-publication price was no worse than AHA members' price (of course, I'm an AHA member so MAYBE I received a different blurb from the AHA). Lastly, I hate to say it Norm, but I'd prefer you give opinions and not recommendations, unless of course they be solicited. If you did not like it, fine, but I don't think it is very fair for you to reccommend others not buy it just because YOU knew all the information already. I don't know of any information in the book that was incorrect nor can I find any major flaws in its style. It is not meant to be the diffinitive source on brewing lagers or pilsners as far as I can tell (Greg Noonan has a well respected book in that category called Brewing Lager Beer). I find it a fine addition to the Classic Beer Style Series; easy to read (not overy technical that a non-brewer couldn't understand it), good history, descriptive and well referenced. I will let the book stand on its own merits and I'm sorry there was nothing new it for you Norm. I'm glad I have the Pale Ale book too, even though I didn't like it as much. I certainly can't recommend someone NOT buy it. -Craig Flowers (flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 10:51:10 EST From: hersh at coco.ctc.tasc.com (Jay Hersh) Subject: Kegging Cleaning Cornelius Kegs: Here's how I do it. I use a B-Brite solution (any other sterilant will work well too). I fill the keg half way, tip it over and use a dart tip (or similar point implement) to push in the opening of the valves and then let the sterilant pour through. Make sure you do this for a' minute or two. I swish the sterilant around in the keg, and also immerse the whole top in sterilant, making sure to lift up the o-ring so that it gets sterilized too. Now pour the sterilant out. With the keg upright once again open the valves this allows any sterilant to flow back down the out tube and out of the valves. I rinse thoroughly with tap water, following the above procedure with tap water to rinse away all the sterilant. DO this a few times, and make sure at the end to put the keg upright and open the valves to let any residual water flow out of them. I then dry the keg upside down for a few minutes to let any excess tap water run off. When kegging I fill the keg within 1-2 inches of the top then put the cover on, latch it down, put the keg under ~10lbs CO2 pressure and lift the pressure release valve. CO2 being heavier than air will settle to the bottom and force the air out, leaving CO2 over the beer. I bulk prime and let the beer condition right in the keg, and transfer to the fridge (be sure its above 32F you wouldn't want to freeze your keg 8-)!!). Reconditioning Kegs: The figures I quoted were based on prices at my local homebrew shop. Seems buying direct from Foxx is substantially cheaper, think I should call them for a catalog. - Jay H Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 09:24:18 mst From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: English beverages All this talk of Lager 'n' Lime and Shandy has reminded me of a drink I had in England back in '79. It was a half pint of beer in a pint glass and an inverted bottle of (hard) apple cider in the glass. I don't know if this was just something restricted to the Twickenham area or ispopular throughout England. The drink begins about 50% of each and slowly increases in cider and alcohol level (the cider was nearly 10% alcohol if I recall correctly) as you keep topping-off the glass with the cider that did not initially fit. It was delishious and potent! After three of those I couldn't even find the coin slot on the Bump 'n' Nudge machine ;^). Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 09:24:34 mst From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: English berverages and keg sanitation Oops. I forgot to ask my question. What were those beer/cider drinks called? Snakebite comes to mind, but I'm probably wrong. Keg sanitation: I clean and sanitize immediately after I've completed emptying a keg. I leave the valves on, pour a gallon of hot water + a couple of tablespoons of bleach into the keg, seal and slosh the liquid around for a few minutes. Then, I dispense the bleach solution just like it was beer. I repeat two or three times with hot water and then finally pour the last ounce or two of water out the top (I've cut an inch off my pickup tube so I leave the trub behind). Two points of caution: 1) don't leave the bleach solution in too long -- bleach reacts with stainless steel and 2) this has worked for me on kegs that I drink within 2 months - -- if you plan to lager in the keg, you may need more intense sanitation. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 8:24:00 PST From: Jeffrey R Blackman <blackman at hpihouz.cup.hp.com> Subject: Re: lagering outside (mike schrempp) Full-Name: Jeffrey R Blackman Mike writes: > > In another light, it's starting to get very chilly outside. I'm thinking of > trying a lagered beer. What is the common wisdom on leaving a carboy of beer > out in the backyard (covered to keep the light out, of course)? Will the > local critters leave it alone? > > Mike Schrempp The only critters that have bothered any brew I've set out has been the Oct. 17 Bay area earthquake. I had two five gallon batches of a tasty blackberry stout fermenting away out back. They were placed about three feet off the ground (up on a table) and covered with a thick blanket. Both carboys plummeted to the ground (landing on the concrete patio) but miraculously only one of the two carboys shattered; the other one was intact. It turned out to be one very tasty brew! One disadvantage I can see is the temperature fluctuations that can occur in this climate. It is hard to dictate what Mother Nature is gonna do with the weather. It may drop to mid 40's at night and then jump up to the mid 70's during the day. Depending on the insulation you have around the carboy (both that of the glass and the covering) you might be able to dismiss any temperature variations. Go for it! I haven't had a batch turn out bad that sat outside at this time of year. -Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: 6 Dec 90 16:25:18 GMT From: bnrgate!bnr-rsc!crick at uunet.UU.NET (Bill Crick) Subject: Its dead jim? In regard to my question on liquid yeast, Roger Locniskan supplied the following info: (Its nice to see a controlled experiment rather than opinion/myth!) Saw your posting in the Digest #550 and thought I'd respond directly. I too pre-start most of my yeasts whether they be dry or liquid. My process is a bit different. The biggest difference is that rather than using cane sugar I use 2 tablespoons of dry malt as the food. I sterilize a longneck bottle, stopper and fermentation lock. Boil 6-8oz. of water with 2 tablespoons of dry malt and 1.5 teaspoons of yeast nutrient. Chill to room tempurature in an ice bath (so it cools quickly) add starter and yeast to sterile bottle install the lock. And every 12 hours or so swirl the contents of the bottle to help build colonies. So far this process has not failed me. I have heard of other people having similar problems to yours when they used cane sugar, so I did a little experiment. I made up some petri dishes half with cane sugar/agar medium and the other half with malt/agar medium. I inoculated one of each type of dish with one yeast strain and did this with a number of yeasts. To my suprise the dishes that I used cane sugar in had 0 (Zero) growth where the malt dishes showed active growth. This said to me that there was somethiong wrong with cane sugar. When I did a little more research I discovered that cane sugar lacks the enzymes that brewing yeast needs to have to grow properly. You can add sugar to a brew because there is the malt present (with all of its enzymes) to support the activity. Hope this helps. If you have any questions please feel free to write. Roger Locniskar A Fellow Digest Reader Thanks Roger! My mother used to mix beer, and ginger ale to make a shandy? She also said thet in England they would use a "real Ginger Beer" instead of Ginger Ale? Bill Crick Brewius, Ergo Sum Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 11:40 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: chimay Maybe I can clarify a few points in the discussion lately concerning Chimay. I lived in Belgium for a year some ten years ago. (Eat yer hearts out! :-) Two years ago on a return trip to see my buddies over there, I had the good fortune to be taken on a personal tour of the Chimay brewery at Scourmont (near France, by the way) by the brewmaster himself, Pere Theodore. Undoubtedly, the highlight of my brewing life! I'm relying on memory for the following details. Plus bear in my mind that the tour and conversation were both in French and while my French is pretty good, still, a lot gets by me. I do have it all on tape and I need desperately to get it out and go through it again. Pere Theodore learned how to brew from Jean de Clerk (who is buried at the abbey). de Clerk taught him how to make the process they were using at the Abbey more "scientifique". Chimay was apparently brewed rather haphazardly prior to Pere Theodore taking over the helm. He is the man responsible for the Chimay that we know and love today. He cultured the yeast himself. And I think he said that there are at least two strains of yeast involved. When they drain a fermenter, they keep the yeast deposit in the tank and run a fresh batch wort right in on top of it. I'm not sure how many times they do this before pitching with a fresh strain. Ready for a surprise? On the floor in the brewhouse were several cans of American Cluster hop extract that they use for boiling hops!! I can't say whether they use hop extract exclusively or in conjunction with other hops but that's what was on the floor. I asked Pere Theodore about this and he said that extract gave him more control over bitterness from one batch to the next. I'm fuzzy on whether they filter or not. I don't think they do. But if they don't, then I don't understand why they add extra yeast at bottling time. I'll have to check my notes on that one. Pere Theodore was a most gracious host. He invited me into his office. Asked me if I would like a beer. "Certainement!" He proceed to one wall of his office and opened it!!! Must have been a hundred bottles or so of all the Chimay beers in there! A white, a blue, and a red Chimay later and we were in a pretty good mood. In fact, he was late for prayer that afternoon, something he is rarely late for, as I was told later. I'll close these anecdotes with a joke the public relations man told me. (You can bet it didn't come from Pere Theodore!!) "She may or she may not but with Chimay, she may" Cheers, Kinney Baughman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 90 08:02:48 EST From: Joe Uknalis <UKNALIS at VTVM1.CC.VT.EDU> Subject: thanks & addresses Many thanks for all the responses to my start up kegging cost question. I'll have to keep a keen eye out at garage sales! Two suppliers who have been mentioned a bit are Foxx and Williams, can anyone post their addresses? thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 1990 12:40:20 EST From: Marc Rouleau <mer6g at virginia.edu> Subject: Re: Pasteurized extract Ok, I now understand why we might like to use the enzymes that are supposedly in the supposedly unpasteurized "commercial" grade malt extract sold by The Homebrewer's Store (1-800-TAP-BREW). On Dec 5, 11:44am, Donald P Perley wrote: > Why keep them, you say? So you can make partial mashes, with mostly > extract, but some wheat or rice, etc. added. Even malted wheat is > kind of low in enzymes, so the DMS lets you mash it easier, without > the "hassles of scale" that a full mash entails. There's one thing I forgot to tell you all about our conversation. He said that his extract would make "smoother-tasting" beer, and his claim wasn't in the context of partial mashing. This is hogwash, right? > At least some > of the extract companies boil the extract under a partial vacuum to > keep the temperature down. He just said that his extract was "unpasteurized" and not that it was made in a special way. Is "commercial" grade extract really any different from the stuff we usually buy in cans? Do the brewpubs and microbreweries that use extract really get fundamentally better stuff? -- Marc Rouleau Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 9:42:08 PST From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: Foxx Beverage Full-Name: "John Cotterill" I have heard people mention Foxx Beverage out of Denver. I have tried to get their number from information, but can't locate it. Could someone pass their phone number along to me? Also, does anyone know where I can get a Wyeast catalog? Thanks, John Cotterill johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 11:46:30 -0600 From: Todd Enders - WD0BCI <enders at plains.NoDak.edu> Subject: SN yeast changes type... [ Mike Charlton <umcharl3 at ccu.UManitoba.CA> writes]: > My brewing partner and I made up a few cultures of WYeast American Ale >Yeast (#1056) to stick away for a rainy day (liquid yeast cultures are >hard to get here), and have have been using them quite successfully. ... [ Change in behavior of culture trimmed ] ... >it has turned into a bottom fermenting yeast! There is virtually no >foam on the top of our fermentors and a huge amount of yeast >sediment at the bottom. This sounds more like your fermentation is over. The yeast pancake usually breaks up and sinks as fermentation ends and cells die/go dormant. *All* yeast produces a foam head during primary fermentation. >The other thing is that it has become extremely >powdery and takes 3-4 weeks to clear. My first thought would be that >we just picked up a wild yeast that has taken over the cultures. The >only problem is that the beer being produced is of great quality (even >better than before). My other thought was that WYeast #1056 might be >a mixture of S. cerevicae(sp?) and S. uvarum (carlsbergensis) and that >the top fermeting yeast just died of old age (~6 months). Does anyone >know? I know that it passes a standard test for a lager yeast (it >can ferment maltotriose, I believe), so maybe the idea's not too out of whack. >In any case, I think I'll make up a second generation culture of it since >it seems so good. Hmmm... I don't know about the powdery bit. It may be that the culture is indeed contaminated. I don't believe that #1056 is a mixture. Depending on a lot of things, you may have induced a mutation in your yeast. I don't know what the stability of #1056 is, but mutations can happen, with results varying from benign to bizzare. A standard test for lager yeast is fermentation of raffinose. Just about any yeast can deal with maltotriose. Raffinose is only available from chem/ biological supply houses, to my knowledge. Actually, if it makes good beer, I'd make that second generation culture, relax, don't worry, etc. But, if the characteristics of the yeast change again, I'd pitch the whole works in the trash. If you do have a mutation, there's no telling how stable it is, so be forewarned. If you aren't into taking chances, throw out the old cultures, scrub, sterilize, even autoclave your culturing equipment, get a new package of #1056, and start over. This would be the safest approach. Todd Enders Enders at plains.nodak.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 10:46:33 mst From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Through-the-door faucets I chose *not* to mount my faucets outside the fridge for two reasons: 1) I have heard of mold growing around the mouth of the faucet (since its not refridgerated) and 2) if you don't seal the interface between the outside air and the insulation in the door, you will get condensation which will eventually make your fridge *very* inefficient. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 09:49:58 PST From: bobc at Eng.Sun.COM (Bob Clark - Sun Engineering) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #551 (December 06, 1990) -> HOMEBREW Digest #551 Thu 06 December 1990 -> Date: Wed, 5 Dec 90 07:39:25 mst -> From: Mark.Nevar at hp-lsd.cos.hp.com -> Subject: Soda kegs - how do I sanitize them -> [...] -> -> I got a new catalog from Alternative Beverage in NC. They sell -> used kegs for 19.95 (as advertised in Zymurgy). But, the lids -> may not have pressure release valves on them. They sell reconditioned -> kegs for 35.95 which have been cleaned, have had the lids replaced, -> and have new o-rings installed. I have heard you can swap old lids -> for the new ones from the company. But what company ? Is it free ? [...] I ordered two kegs from them. One came with a relief valve, the other without. The one without the relief valve is made by Firestone. I've been using it, but have been very careful about the pressure. I'm also interested in any responses about the mfg replacing it, since a new lid costs ~$17. Bob C. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 1990 12:01:00 EST From: Marc Rouleau <mer6g at virginia.edu> Subject: Re: Oh God, not Al vs. Stainless again!!! On Dec 5, 9:41am, krweiss at ucdavis.edu wrote: > 24 qt. aluminum pot is $50.00, and the same size stainless is $150. From Chris Shenton's mail order summary: -> Rapids Inc: 1011 2nd Ave SW; P.O. Box 396; Cedar Rapids, IA 52406; -> 800-553-7906. Restaurant wholesale equipment. Most interesting: 10 gal 20 -> gauge stainless pot: $80; matching lid: $20. The pot is quality, and it's -> a good company with which to do business. [chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov] -- Marc Rouleau Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 10:34:49 PST From: ocarma at unssun.nevada.edu (Oran Carmona) Subject: Reinheitsgebot I got to wondering about this the other day and thought some kind soul here could offer an explanation: If the purity law states only water hops yeast and barley can be used to make beer, what about wheat beer? O< Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 08:47:36 PST From: uunet!tc.fluke.COM!gamebird at uunet.UU.NET (Duane Smith) Subject: Reconditioned Kegs In HB#551 Mark Nevar asks about reconditioned kegs and pressure relief valves. I bought 2 reconditioned kegs from Art's Brewing in Co. several months ago. Cost $25ea. Both were in real good condition with relief valves on top. Art said take your chances on the seals but when he sells them, they had held pressure for some period of time. I also bought re- placement seals just in case. These kegs are still sitting in my basement holding pressure(with original seals) after being recharged by me. Hope to put brew in them soon. Just a testimonial from a satisfied customer. Onto another issue.. I already have a Keg setup for regular beer. It is a Sankey type if that makes any difference. The hose sizes for bber and gas are different for the keg beer vs homebrew soda keg(1/4 in) vs 7/16 in for my keg setup. Are there any quick con- nect types things so I can easily switch between systems? Anybody else done this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Duane Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 09:16:30 PST From: keng at epad.MENTOR.COM (Ken Giles) Subject: Re: WYeast American Ale Yeast In HBD #551 Mike Charlton <umcharl3 at ccu.UManitoba.CA> writes: > My brewing partner and I made up a few cultures of WYeast American Ale >Yeast (#1056) to stick away for a rainy day (liquid yeast cultures are >hard to get here), and have have been using them quite successfully. >It is interesting to note, however that the fermentation characteristics >of the yeast are changing as it gets older... Isn't it interesting how so many posts start with "My brewing partner and I..."? Homebrewing is truly a social hobby. When my brewing partner and I bought ingredients for a Christmas ale at Steinbart's, they were out of 1056, so I asked for something equivalent. The sales person said he had Wyeast 1021, calling it Steinbart's Ale Yeast. He said it's a slight mutation of 1056. I asked what the difference was, and he said that they differed mainly in flocculation rate (how fast it settles out), 1021 being slower. They were busy that day, and we were in a hurry, so we took it and didn't ask any more questions about it. We gave the beer 3 weeks of fermentation, during which it didn't completely clear. One week after bottling, it became crystal clear, and developed the most yeast sediment I've ever seen in a bottle (that's out of at least 40 batches, in 5 years). I must have 3/8 inches of sediment. Luckily, sticks well to the bottom, when pouring. So, I'm wondering if you've created the same or similar mutation. I don't have enough experience with 1056 to talk about whether the beer is better. Also, it's a spiced Christmas ale (Papazian's Holiday Cheer), not my normal brew, so it's not a controlled yeast experiment. I'll try to find out more about this yeast, but I don't anticipate talking with the folks at Steinbart's until after Christmas. Presumably, the yeast is valued over 1056 by somebody, or Wyeast wouldn't propogate it. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 15:10:06 EST From: mer6g at bailey.acc.virginia.edu (Marc Rouleau) Subject: Why so few alcoholic beverages? This is something I culled from the Bud vs. Miller wasteland of rec.food.drink. I thought y'all would be interested. I'm kinda new to the homebrew digest, so if you think this is inappropriate, please feel free to let me know, hopefully privately and nicely ... -- Marc Rouleau In article <1102 at ai.cs.utexas.edu>, throop at cs.utexas.edu (David Throop) writes: > > Why are there so few (non-distilled) alcoholic drinks commercially >available? > > Almost anything with starch or sugar in it can be fermented. And a >huge number of things are fermented and distilled to liquors. But in >the undistilled category we have > >In large commercial quantities > Grapes - to wine. > Barley - to beer. > Apples - to cider. > Rice - to saki. > >In small commercial quantities > Wheat - to wheat beer. > Plums and cherries - to wine. > Honey - to mead. > Muscedines (sp?) - to wine. > > Beyond this -- what? Am I missing something that's drunk undistilled >and sold commercially? There are on the order of, what, about 250 >starchy plants sold in large commercial quantities world wide. Why >aren't others converted into wine/beer? > > Clearly, some of the plants wouldn't make it - fermented onions just >aren't going to make a good drink. But it seems odd that more of the >fruits and grains don't get exploited - especially in seasons when >they're in excess and can't be sold at a profit before they spoil. > > Does acidity keep orange and pineapple juices from fermenting? Do >laws keep beers from rye, oats and corn off the market? Is the >undistilled mash from sugarcane palatable? Have traditional cultures >fermented drinks from beans and pulses? > > I don't think it's just the taste. Many things are unpalateable >alone, but improve with blending. If I understand correctly, barley >beer, without the hops added for flavor, is not that great. So why >hasn't similar artifice worked on other alcholic concoctions? In >particular, I would think many of the starchy vegetables, if mixed with >something sweet, would yield something good-tasting. > >David Throop Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 90 13:33:14 PST From: wicinski%winona.esd.sgi.com at SGI.COM Subject: growing hops has anyone tried growing hops? i've been doing a lot of reading and i think it can easily be done either indoors or outdoors. indoors would be much better because then you can really control enviornmental flows to fully develop a strain of hops you like. has anyone tried this? sure sounds like a good way for doing experiments. with cross breeding strains, etc. I like the quasi-experiments people are trying (fermintation lock glubs was cool), has anyone tried collecting or collating the data people have been sending to the list? tim Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 90 13:44:37 PST From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: Beer body Gee, I hate to bring up what might be an old debate, but here goes: in HBD #551, Algis Korzonas mentions in his honorable retraction of some scandalous claims concerning Chimay yeast that dextrins in beer give it body. Dave Miller vehementlty claims that dextrins most certainly do not give body to beer, but rather that proteins do. I do agree that bottle fermentation in any case doesn't add body. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 16:43:49 PST From: ssiwest!young at llnl (indi) Subject: Patriotic Duty... I have been requested to post this by a friend at Gillead Sciences in Foster City, CA: A friend of ours is going to Saudi Arabia soon, with the army. He wants to know how to make a *still*. [ed. While this is not related to *beer*, it is related to *brewing*, right? Do our friend from Alabama know? ;-)] He wants to get the equipment to build it before he gets shipped over there. [ed. I recently heard that the most requested item in letters written to friends in the US by US military, uh, members, is, yes, YEAST! Would you beleive? I wonder if they have any email connections out there... So, can any of you help him??!?! I guess we should consider it our patriotic duty...] ___________________________________________________________ indi (Cathy Young) Supercomputer Systems, Inc uunet!ssi!young 2021 Las Positas Court, Suite 101 (415)373-8044 Livermore, CA 94550 Just spotted on the bumper of a van: It will be a great day when our schools have all the money they need and the air force has to hold a bake sale to buy a new bomber. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 90 20:23:38 PST From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Radler When I saw the word on yesterday's postings I was reminded of a nice beverage while in Germany this summer. When we (wife Karen and I) asked what it was the reply was "half beer and half lemonaid (or 7-up type pop)". The beer half was usually a helles. It was sweet, refreshing, and quite drinkable, even for a beer purist like me. I don't recall seeing Radler in 84 or 87. Perhaps it is recently more popular. It seems a generic name and not a brand name. Oops on goofing Dave Miller's name concerning the review (slam) of his Continental Pilsner book. Funny, Larry Miller is member of our Brews Brothers club and could probably do as good job with the material. Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #552, 12/07/90 ************************************* -------
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