HOMEBREW Digest #613 Thu 11 April 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Broken carboy  (TSAMSEL)
  Re: Goofy wort chiller (Michael Zentner)
  Airlock contents (Peter Karp)
  Crystal Malt and Counterintuitive Recipes (Eric Pepke)
  Greetings ("John E. Lenz")
  Priming with Malt (Will Allen)
  Wodka, Da! (Rad Equipment)
  Jamaican Stout (Tim Anderson  at  APD x2205)
  Dry Hopping (Doug Dreger)
  Ireks and Weizen ("William F. Pemberton")
  Re: Weizen Extract (Kurt Swanson)
  Re: cracking/crushing/grinding grains... (Kurt Swanson)
  A Canadian Sending Beer to USA (Mike Charlton)
  Brewpubs in Minneapolis/St. Paul (Lanny Hoff)
  Rotokegs going flat (Thorn Roby)
  Any Brewpubs in Evanston, IL??? (dredge)
  Carl Hensler - contact Ye Olde Batte (Carol Botteron)
  Request for information (Gene Schultz)
  re: airlock contents (lg562)
  Countercurrent wort chilling (Bill Thacker)
  Re: Weizen extract question (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Brewpubs in Cleveland? (Jeff Chambers)
  Green glass (CONDOF)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1991 6:45:43 EDT From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV Subject: Broken carboy Last Saturday (the 6th of April), I brewed my first partial grain-mash batch. That was fine, but Sunday night I was bringing up laundry from the basement and checked the carboy with its blowout tube. It was bubbling merrily away. Five minutes later, I came down toget another load of wash and smelled wort. Beer was all over the floor. (Praise Florian and Gamrinus that we have adrainhole in the basement). There went the rest of my evening, cleaning trub. Upon inspection, my NEW carboy was cleanly broken, leaving the base as a lipped disk. I had tempered the wort by hving two gallons of cold 40-45F H20 in the carboy so the glass would not crack. Should I assume i just got a bum carboy? Has this happened to any one else? I do not think this was a pressure problem because blowout was functioning perfectly five minutes before. Cemments?ts? Ted (TSAMSEL at USGSRESV.BIT) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 09:07:10 -0500 From: zentner at ecn.purdue.edu (Michael Zentner) Subject: Re: Goofy wort chiller "ASK ME IF I CARE..." aka dr. d aka V057P673 at ubvmsc.cc.buffalo.edu writes: > straighten out about a 20' length of copper tubing, and shove it inside about > 23' of garden hose, starting at the end I cut off of the garden hose. Then I > cut a hole in the garden hose about four feet down from the connector end of > the hose, pushed the end of the copper tube through, and made sure there was > about 6" sticking out of the end of the hose and also through the hole I cut. > Then I sealed the hole with RTV silicone, and coiled the whole mess back up > again. Here is a simplistic diagram: > > <---3'----><--------------------20'--------------><-6"-> > __ \\ <-- copper tubing > |||\______\\_____________________________________ > ||| \\ |------ <-- copper tubing > ||| _____________________________________________|------ > |||/ > ^-- garden hose This has to be about the best character schematic I've seen :-). For anyone considering this design, another option in lieu of slicing into the hose is to go out and buy one of those Y type hose adapters for each end of the garden hose, so that the copper tubing can come out of one of the ports on the Y. Regardless of the length of copper tubing you use, you'll probably have to adjust the length of the garden hose (there are adapters for this again at any hardware store). Make the cut close to one of the ends, so you can already have the Y screwed into the small piece of hose before joining the hose together. That way, you don't have to keep bending the copper in a circle to screw on the Y. Now, the other advantage of using a Y is that you no longer need to use silicone sealer. Get a hose nipple which has an ID larger than the OD of the copper and which has hose thread, so it will screw onto the end of the Y. Then, a small 3" section of vinyl tubing that fits over the hose nipple. Get successively smaller pieces of vinly tubing that fit in the big one concentrically until the ID of one matches the OD of your copper. Secure the whole thing with hose clamps and wa-la, you have a seal that would even hold up to pressure (sometimes there is pressure in my chiller, since I have installed a cooling water control valve at the outlet end). > 1) This thing does NOT need 20' of copper tubing. Maybe an immersion cooler > might need that length, but I was barely running the tap water, and getting > wort out at ~60F. I would think 8-10' would suffice. I may split mine into > two wort chillers. While certainly true in some cases, this is NOT a good general rule. The length of tubing needed is greatly dependant on the diameter of the copper being used. I agree that for 1/4" OD copper, 10' is probably a good guess, but I think you'll really have to rush the water through if you go with 3/8" OD. Another variable is the ID of the garden hose. The water flow rate will be either faster or slower depending on this as well. I don't doubt the measured results of the author, but, as they say, mileage may vary, and I've had experience now with two of these chillers. Anyone wanting more detailed descriptions of how I built mine, I can email them to you if you're really interested. There is no "right" way to build one. My comment about diameters and flow rates is based on the fact that your flow will most likely be laminar, with well developed stream-lines. When this is the case, the wort near the edge of the copper tubing will lose heat quickly, but it must carry heat from the center streamlines outward, which is not an instantaneous process in laminar flow. Same goes for the cooling water. And as far as 1/4" tubing, anyone thinking about it...think hard, because you may run into very long cool times. > 2) My question: Everybody I know who uses a device like this uses a > counterflow, that is, cold tap water running in an opposite direction to the > wort flow. However, it just made intuitive sense to me to send both in the > same direction: The hottest wort will exchange the heat with the coldest water > and some sort of equilibrium will be reached by the time you reach the end > of the chiller. Why would the chiller be more effective with counterflow? > Which method makes it easier to regulate temperature? Enquiring minds just > GOTTA know! If your outlet wort was at 60F, and you were using a mere trickle of cooling water flow, your water must have been quite cold. If you used parallel flow, both in the same direction, then the cooling water cannot have exited at a temperature above that of the wort, that is, as soon as the wort and water come to the same temperature, the wort can be cooled no further. Unless you have a very fast flow rate, with such a system, the wort can never reach the temperature of the water coming out of the tap. However, with counter-flow, the outlet wort is in "contact" with water at tap temperature, allowing the wort to reach that temperature (again, depending on lengths, rates, etc). Again, I am not trying to flame the original author as I'm sure what he/she measured is fact, but building one of these things is nothing to be totally blase' about. You can end up wasting a bit of money with a failed attempt... I know :-). There are a lot of variables to think about. Mike Zentner zentner at ecn.purdue.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 09:15:18 EST From: Peter Karp <karp at cs.columbia.edu> Subject: Airlock contents I read about using vodka in airlocks and it has more to do with the fermenting wort bubbling up through the lock and getting contaminated then with bacteria making their way down through the lock. Also with a plastic sealed primary the airlock water can be sucked into the fermenter if you lift it to move it. Perhaps it better to add a little vodka to the beer then some bacterial unknown. Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1991 10:47:24 EDT From: PEPKE at SCRI1.SCRI.FSU.EDU (Eric Pepke) Subject: Crystal Malt and Counterintuitive Recipes Mark Roleau writes: > I've not seen any recipes calling for as much as two pounds of > crystal malt. That certainly doesn't mean that they don't exist > and are not wonderfully tasty, but the ones I've seen all call for > a pound or less. I tasted a beer that a friend of mine made a while back, an extract/grain beer. It was delicious. It tasted much more like the ordinary bitter I drink by the gallon when in England than nearly all homebrews I have had over here. I asked for the recipe and was astonished to find out that five gallons called for *three* pounds of crystal malt, and if that weren't enough, it also used Cascade hops. It didn't taste anything like an oversweet West Coast ale. Also, about a year ago I made a lager with pale malt, Munich malt, and Bullion hops. It completely lacked the harshness that one would expect from Bullion hops. It came out incredibly smooth in flavor, a crystal-clear bright red in color. Does anybody else have any counterintuitive recipes? > Also, cracking two pounds of crystal malt with a > rolling pin will take you a long time -- I have found it to be a > rather tedious job. Not as long as cracking 9 pounds of 2-row with a rolling pin does. I used to start two days in advance. Now I use a meat grinder with a sort-of-Corona- like blade, and it does quite a good job. Eric Pepke INTERNET: pepke at gw.scri.fsu.edu Supercomputer Computations Research Institute MFENET: pepke at fsu Florida State University SPAN: scri::pepke Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052 BITNET: pepke at fsu Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions. Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 10:29:13 EDT From: "John E. Lenz" <JELJ at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Greetings I have been on the distribution list for about a week now and though it about time that I weigh in with some comments and a subject for discussion. First the comments (all on items in today's release, Apr 10): >Jeff Shelton asks "Why do people use green bottles?" I guess the snide response would be "to contain their beer," but seriously, I don't think the color of the bottle is much of an issue if you keep your beer out of direct sunlight. I have bottled in brown, green, and clear bottles and have never detected any significant differences in the end product. If you are able to keep your beer in a cool dark place I don't think that you will experience any problems. I have a few bottles of Weizen which are about two years old and showing no signs of any lightstruck character. >Craig (flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu) asks about the typical OG for Weizen I think that the 1.032-35 stuff is probably the Berliner Weisse, all the info I've seen regarding Bavarian Weizens indicates that they are of a more respectable OG, on the order of 1.045-50. I too would be loathe to add corn sugar to my Weizen, though if the Ireks extract is straight wheat you might consider combining it with a can of something like Alexanders Sun Country light extract, which I believe is an all-malt extract made from 2-row Klages and is the lightest available US product. >Dave Beedle writes about the hydrogen sulfide odor of his fermenting beer, >and the sweetness of his barley wine. Dave, I wouldn't worry about the odor, it seems to be a common thing, I've experienced this with several brews while they were fermenting but have never noticed anything remotely like it in the finished product. As to the Barley Wine, if it is truly a Barley Wine (with an appreciable OG) it is certainly well under the age of consent if it is only two weeks in the bottle. This stuff is meant to have (in fact requires) a lengthy fermentation and aging in the bottle for at least 6 months before being consumed. I'm not familiar with the kit you mention, but if it is a high gravity brew you should sit on it for several months, as it will certainly improve with age. I'd keep a close eye on those bottles, if the caps start bulging you may consider recapping so as to blow off the pressure in the head space (in fact you might have to do so several times). I hope you went light on the primings. And finally, I'd like to kick off a discussion on dry hopping. I made a Pale Ale on Sunday and plan to dry hop it with an ounce, or more, of Goldings leaf hops when I rack it into the secondary. I would be interested in hearing of other brewers' experiences with and procedures for dry hopping. I'm planning to simply put the hops, which are in compressed half-ounce plugs, into the carboy and rack the beer onto them. It seems to me that letting the hops have unrestrained contact with the beer should achieve the best result in terms of extracting the desired compounds. Will they eventually sink to the bottom? Or am I opening myself up to a racking nightmare at bottling time? I eagerly await your responses. Cheers, Dr. John (jelj at cornella.cit.cornell.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 08:36:25 -0700 From: Will Allen <willa at hpvclwa.vcd.hp.com> Subject: Priming with Malt Howdy: Usually, I prime with corn sugar. I wanna try priming with either liquid extract or dried. I'm looking for a loose conversion from corn sugar to the malts. Usually I use 1/2 to 3/4 c corn sugar, depending on the amoung of fizz I want (I never weigh anything -- relax, don't worry, just measure volume). . . .Will Will Allen HP Vancouver Division willa at vcd.hp.com or ...!hplabs!vcd!willa or Will ALLEN / HP5400/UX Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Apr 90 09:08:34 From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU> Subject: Wodka, Da! Reply to: Wodka, Da! In HBD #612, "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> writes: >...use a mixture of vodka and water in the airlock. This seems like >overkill to me, since bacteria cannot travel up a loop anyway. Has anyone >done this and noted any different results from just using water? I always use straight vodka in my airlocks. I uy a bottle of the cheapest I can find and keep it in the basement with my fermenters. Bacteria should not be able to get through, or survive in the high alcohol level. The advantages to using vodka over water or some anti-bacterial solution include the fact that if for some reason the contents of your airlock should contact the brew, nothing will be imparted to the batch (either bugs,toxins, or flavors) which would cause a problem. Any high alcohol solution will do but vodka is cheap, easy to use, and clear which makes it easy to monitor. I use a bleach solution for my blow-off hose airlock. I don't worry about sucking up that stuff since I use 4' of 1" tube. Russ Wigglesworth <Rad Equipment at RadMac1.ucsf.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 08:48:23 PDT From: tima at apd.MENTOR.COM (Tim Anderson at APD x2205) Subject: Jamaican Stout > Date: Fri, 05 Apr 91 09:57:58 EST > From: Steve Thornton <NETWRK at HARVARDA.HARVARD.EDU> > Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #611 (April 05, 1991) > > Lee Katman's theory about ganja in the beer is interesting, but Dragon > Stout, which the original post specifically named, is a fairly widely > available product in the US. It's made by the Red Stripe people, and I > very much doubt that it has ganja in it either in Jamaica or the US. > > steve t Damn. tim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 09:12:42 PDT From: Doug Dreger <dreger at seismo.gps.caltech.edu> Subject: Dry Hopping Hi, The lager that I am making is in the primary in the fridge. I want to dry hop it and was planning to add about 0.75 oz hops to boiling H2O in my erlynmeyer (sp?) flask, quickly cool it in an ice bath and add this to my secondary before I rack in the beer. Is all of this necessary ? Do I take a risk with infection if I simply add the hops directly with out the boiling H2O? Anyone familiar with Triple Rock Brewery in Berkley? Their beers generally have a very hoppy nose and taste that I really enjoy. Do they dry hop their beers? I just can't seem to get the same kind of flavor and aroma by adding the hops after the boil. Thanks Doug Return to table of contents
Date: Wed Apr 10 12:36:41 1991 From: "William F. Pemberton" <wfp5p at euclid.acc.virginia.edu> Subject: Ireks and Weizen Craig Flowers asked about Weizen extract, specifically Ireks... I have used Ireks before and I seem to remember that it is 100% Wheat Extract. So, using a little dry malt wouldn't really change the ratio of anything. Adding some barley extract would actually be better in creating a more traditional Weizen recipe. As for the gravity of Weizens, all the recipes I have seen come in at around 1.050. One can of Ireks in 5 gallons gets me around this point. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 12:02:19 CDT From: kswanson at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson) Subject: Re: Weizen Extract Craig, (flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu), has a can of Irek's Weizen extract (6.6 lbs), and would like to make 5 gallons of Weizenbier, w/o adding corn sugar. This can be done. While the extract is all-wheat, it has approximately the same amount of fermentables as an all-barley malt extract. Thus, considering 2 normal size cans of barley malt extract in 5 gallons of beer yields an OG of around 45, he should have no problem. But one thing Craig should worry about, is the fact that Irek's extract is ALL-WHEAT --- no barley. Personally, I'm about to make a Weizenbier using Ireks, but plan on using a bunch o' crystal malt to balance the wheat. Note that it has already been discussed that commercial Weizenbiers contain ~1/3 barley malt. Kurt. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 12:05:13 CDT From: kswanson at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson) Subject: Re: cracking/crushing/grinding grains... Does anyone use a home coffee grinder to crush grains? If so, how effective is this? I have one of these things, and granted one can't grind too much at a time, it would be nice to use this thing for something, as I don't drink coffee. Kurt. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 12:10:42 CDT From: Mike Charlton <umcharl3 at ccu.UManitoba.CA> Subject: A Canadian Sending Beer to USA Hi all. My brewing partner and I decided that we would enter the AHA contest this year. There is only one problem: How to get it there. I realize it is now probably too late for suggestions, but here are the problems we were having. We went to UPS. Unfortunately, they demanded that they know *exactly* what was in the package for customs. This meant that we had to tell them it was beer. Despite our insistence that it was alright to send it for analytical purposes, they refused to ship it. We next tried Canpar. They had no trouble with shipping it, but said that they will only ship things to the US if you have an account with them. We next tried Federal Express, but they wanted about $80 for the two packages that we wanted sent. Finally, we went to Canada Post, but apparently they can't ship alcohol for any reason. Furthermore, the customs officials mentioned that even if you send it by courier, you have to clear the package with US customs before you send it. So, are there any Canadians out there who have successfully sent an entry to an American competition? How did you manage it? Thanks, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 12:48:51 CDT From: lhoff at stolaf.edu (Lanny Hoff) Subject: Brewpubs in Minneapolis/St. Paul Bobb Menk wrote a fairly complete article on this subject in #612, but I must add my comments. Taps is, indeed, out of business, so don't even try to go there. Sherlock's Home (Sherlock's in his article) is a wonderful place with wonderful beer and wonderful woodwork behind the bar. Overall I would say that the place is pretty nice:-). Summit Brewery has put its tour schedule on hold for a while. I talked to the guy who runs the place and he said that they are doing some construction and won't be giving tours for another few weeks. If you are in Mpls, however, find a sixer of their porter (Great Northern Porter) and enjoy. I will post when they resume touring, as it is very interesting and the free beer is plentiful, fresh and very tasty. There is another micro in town. James Page Brewing also gives tours, but only on the first Saturday of each month. His is an interesting approach since he uses wild rice as an adjunct in his brews. Tasty. Good luck, and welcome to Minneapolis/St. Paul. Lanny Hoff lhoff at stolaf.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 12:49:22 CDT From: lhoff at stolaf.edu (Lanny Hoff) Clarification time. In Digest #611, I wrote in suggesting that people look into using bottled water. I found a place in MPLS which deals in both plastic and GLASS for spring and distilled water. Of course, the obvious choice is to get a glass carboy, and that is what I did. JaH (J. Hersh, I believe) pointed out, and rightly so, that we should only consider glass. I had said that before, however. Another submission in #612 suggested that I could get bottled water cheaper at the supermarket. This is very true, but the added convienience of getting a clean carboy (i.e., doesn't need to be sanitized->No POSSIBLE worries) for only $1.50 is a steal in my book. (to recap: I could go out and buy bottled water for only about $3 at the store, in the carboy it costs $4.55) As to the quality, all I can say is that the spring water from the bottlers tastes, smells, and even looks better than tap water. The beer I have made from the bottled water has also been excellent. How can you argue with success? To summarize: bottled water offers quality and convienience at a low price. I challenge anyone to find a GLASS carboy for less than $6, and I am sure that nobody has ever worried less about sanitation in his/her fermenter. Thanks, Lanny Hoff lhoff at stolaf.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 11:41:57 -0700 From: troby at carl.org (Thorn Roby) Subject: Rotokegs going flat I've brewed something like 20 batches over five years in three Rotokegs and I think only two have gotten through the keg without needing additional carbonation. I keep upping the priming corn sugar (lately I've been using about 12 oz, about three times the recommended amount) and the initial pressure is great but it only lasts about half way through (over a two to three week period). Typically I add two or three little CO2 cartridges to get the rest out. Still, at a carbonation cost of about $1 a keg, I'm reluctant to do anything more serious about pressurizing. Anyone know any intermediate solutions short of a full CO2 tank? Seemed like it was going to cost me about $80 to do that. - -- Thorn Roby troby at diana.cair.du.edu CARL Systems, Inc. troby at carl.org 777 Grant Street, Denver, CO 80203 (303) 861-5319 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 13:58:23 PDT From: dredge at Centric.COM Subject: Any Brewpubs in Evanston, IL??? I've got a trip to Evanston next week. Does anyone know of a brewpub (or two :^) in the area? Thanks, dredge Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 17:47:58 -0400 From: botteron at bu-it.bu.edu (Carol Botteron) Subject: Carl Hensler - contact Ye Olde Batte Morgiana P. Halley [Ye Olde Batte] asked me to post this because she has been unable to get mail to Carl Hensler. (Apologies to others, but she'd like to hear from other friends too.) She has a couple of LONG postings for you, Carl, and would like to hear from you if you're still interested/accessible. If you have more than one email address please include it. Her email address: EG2MH at primea.sheffield.ac.uk And here are the other addresses she's sent along: From: Morgiana P. Halley [Ye Olde Batte] c/o CECTAL The University Sheffield, UK S10 2TN Phone: (0742) 509860 Home (0742) 768555 ext. 6296 Message Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 15:29:53 PDT From: gschultz at cheetah.llnl.gov (Gene Schultz) Subject: Request for information I hope that I haven't missed any postings on this topic recently, but I'm intested in making a beer that tastes like Samuel Adams Beer. Does anyone out there have a good recipe? Also, does anyone know of a West Coast supplier who can sell me dry malt for less than the going rate at homebrew stores around here, $8.50 for 3 pounds? I'd like to buy about 50 pounds. Thanks, ---Gene Schultz Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory gschultz at cheetah.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 15:55:27 PDT From: lg562 at koshland.pnl.gov Subject: re: airlock contents Date: 5 Apr 91 14:05:00 EDT >From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> One of the things they recommend is to use a mixture of vodka and water in the airlock.... Has anyone done this and noted any different results from just using water? I use gin in the airlock. But I don't think it makes any difference. If I add a little more gin after bubbling through for a while, I notice the Schlieren patterns which tell me the liquid in the airlock was no longer gin (probably mostly water). Michael Bass Molecular Science Research Center, K2-18 Battelle - Pacific Northwest Laboratory Richland, Washington 99352 lg562 at pnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 13:08:52 EST From: Bill Thacker <hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!cbema!wbt> Subject: Countercurrent wort chilling > From: "ASK ME IF I CARE..." <V057P673 at ubvmsc.cc.buffalo.edu> (Description of tube-in-a-tube wort chiller) > 2) My question: Everybody I know who uses a device like this uses a > counterflow, that is, cold tap water running in an opposite direction to the > wort flow. However, it just made intuitive sense to me to send both in the > same direction: The hottest wort will exchange the heat with the coldest water > and some sort of equilibrium will be reached by the time you reach the end > of the chiller. Why would the chiller be more effective with counterflow? > Which method makes it easier to regulate temperature? I started to write the long answer, but my fingers started to hurt, so briefly: Countercurrent heat exchangers are more efficient in certain ways, most notably coolant utilization; it takes less water to reach the desired temperature. Unless you live in a drought region, though, this isn't a big consideration for homebrewing. The gist of it is that in countercurrent operation, your coolest beer (exiting) meets your coolest water (incoming) and so can match its temperature. In co-current operation, the coolest beer sees the warmest water. In order to get the beer as cold as the incoming water, you have to use a very high flowrate of water. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bill Thacker AT&T Network Systems - Columbus wbt at cbnews.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 18:16:07 mdt From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Re: Weizen extract question Craig writes: >I've got a can of the Ireks Weizen extract (6.6 lbs). One set of >directions calls for 1 lb of corn sugar (for 5 gal) which, of course, I >don't want to add. I also do not want to add any dry malt as it may >imbalance the intended amount of wheat to barly. You're starting with an imbalance, if you have the same type of Ireks Weizen extract as I did. On my can, I believe it said the only indredients were Malted wheat and water. This would be 100% wheat. >I have a 3.5 gal >fermenter and was wondering if anyone thought it would be better to make >the smaller amount? Would it end up too strong? Weizens, if I remember >correctly, should propably have a starting gravity of 1.032 - 1.035. Am I >better off making a 5 gal batch (with no additives) or a 3 gal batch (with >no additives)? I made a 5 gallon batch with nothing but 1 oz of Hallertauer pellets in the 60 minute boil and 1 more oz of Hallertauer pellets for the last 5 minutes of the boil. The result was strange. I think that I may have burned the malt (damned electric stove, damned enamel brewpot!) because it came out dark red, like a dunkel lager. The flavor was definately burnt, but mellowed out after a month in the keg at 45F. I suggest you make a 5 gallon batch. My intuition says: "6.6 lbs of liquid extract in 5 gallons of beer should result in an OG of 1.042 to 1.050" since Papazian says 1 lb of liquid extract per gallon gives you 1.032 to 1.038. I used Wyeast Bavarian Wheat yeast. Please post how it turns out and what you ended up doing. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 15:13:14 CDT From: motcid!red!chambers at uunet.UU.NET (Jeff Chambers) Subject: Brewpubs in Cleveland? Does anyone have any information on Cleveland and Northern Ohio BrewPubs? I will be traveling there in the upcoming months and would like a place to exercise my palate. Thanks, Jeff Chambers (uunet!motcid) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 18:45 PST From: <CONDOF%CLARGRAD.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Green glass In HBD #612, Jeffrey Marc Shelton <js8f+ at andrew.cmu.edu> writes about green bottles. Do they let the nasty green light through? Well, it is green light that causes the "skunkification" (that's a technical term) photochemical reaction of the iso-alpha hop acids. But you can't tell just by looking at a bottle whether it transmits or blocks green light, unless the bottle is clear. Even a brown bottle may be blocking no green light. A green bottle may be transmitting either green light or equal portions of yellow and blue light. Your three-color visual system can't tell the difference: both look green. The only way to know for sure is to use a spectrometer. Since most of us don't have access to spectrometers, I'd suggest just keeping your bottles, whatever their color, in a dark place. I even have a couple clear bottles, and they've never skunked up, because I keep them in the dark. This doesn't mean I keep them in a light trap. I keep them in a closet while they carbonate and in a fridge thereafter. The brew gets consumed fresh enough that photochemistry is never noticeable. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #613, 04/11/91 ************************************* -------
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