HOMEBREW Digest #615 Mon 15 April 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Homebrew Digest ("William M. Pierce Jr., Ph.D.")
  PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM MAILING LIST (Jeff McCartney : 541-7340)
  brewing stoves (Mike Zentner)
  Thanks and kegging... (Dave Beedle)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #614 (April 12, 1991) (Vince Prantil)
  Ireks Weizen followup (flowers)
  please add... (Rob Kedoin)
  Re: Coffee grinders (Chris Shenton)
  Dry hopping (Ted Manahan)
  Head retention; Dry hopping; Straining (BAUGHMANKR)
  Lies, damn lies and Guinness (R. Bradley)
  Homebrew from Canada, Lots-o-repitching:  evaluation (Paul L. Kelly)
  Rare Trappiste Ale (flowers)
  Re: Tygon tubing (Steve Dempsey)
  Vodka and Fermentation Locks (John Polstra)
  Coffee grinders / grain malt. (Jim White)
  Lab chemicals as additives ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  SAM ADAMS (John_Zettler.ADFMcLean_CSD)
  RE: Sam Adams Double Bock (Jack Webb)
  Evanston's not dry (QUINT_CHRIS/HP6600_1K)
  Brew On Premises (Rob McDonald)
  Re: sanitary airlocks and carbonation (Douglas Allen Luce)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 08:25:20 EDT From: "William M. Pierce Jr., Ph.D." <WMPIER01%ULKYVM.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Homebrew Digest In reply to C.R. Saikley - if you're looking for Ohio brewpubs, there is one in Northern Kentucky about 10 minutes south of Cincinnati off I-75 (at Buttermilk Pike) named Oldenburg Brewery. In-Reply-To: note of 04/12/91 06:49 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 08:43:55 EDT From: Jeff McCartney : 541-7340 <JEFF91%SYBIL at rti.rti.org> Subject: PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM MAILING LIST Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 08:52:36 -0500 From: zentner at ecn.purdue.edu (Mike Zentner) Subject: brewing stoves For anyone who cares, I found a rather nice looking brewing stove in a Bass Pro Shops catalog (1-800-227-7776). It is stainless steel, 136000BTU, has a stove-top-like burner, and stands waist high. It comes with a 3 gallon stainless steel pot and lid with a large frying basket too (it's really for fish frying). The guy on the phone assured me that it was quite sturdy and that their return policy was very liberal. I have it on the word of an avid fisherman that they are a good place with which to do business. The price is regular 139.97, on sale till June 18 for $99.97. I just ordered yesterday and have not yet recieved it, so no comment yet. Just thought I'd let anyone interested know so they could call for the catalog (which takes about a week or 2 to get there). They also have less elaborate 2 and 3 burner units. If anyone is interested in how mine looks, email to me and I'll let you know when it gets here. Mike Zentner ....of to sample some bock.... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 9:21:16 CDT From: dbeedle at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Dave Beedle) Subject: Thanks and kegging... Hi all! First thanks to those folks who told me not to worry about the hydrogen sulfied oder in my latest batch. It does seem to be going away and I am not worrying! The yeast, BTW, is Witbred Lager yeast (dry, 14g). Yesterday I picked up a small (2 1/4 gallon) Brewcraft pressure keg. In the literature it mentions an "Auto injector"? I assume this is a C02 set up of some sort. Keeping the pressure up seem like a good idea to me since I don't plan on drinking the whole two gallons in one sitting ;-). Just what, exacly, is this critter and where can I get one? Are there alternatives? Thanks! TTFN - -- Dave Beedle Office of Academic Computing Illinois State University Internet: dbeedle at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu 136A Julian Hall Bitnet: dbeedle at ilstu.bitnet Normal, Il 61761 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 10:46:41 EDT From: vince at hickory.MSI.CORNELL.EDU (Vince Prantil) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #614 (April 12, 1991) I am sorry but my system is experiencing a severe disk space crunch and my mailbox folders on homebrew overfloweth. I would please request that you change my address to send homebrew newsletters to vincei at isaiah.msi.cornell.edu Otherwise I will have to continue destroying them (and not be able to read them) in order to open my mail folders. VCP Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1991 10:11:34 -0600 From: flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu Subject: Ireks Weizen followup Thanks for all the replies. I got my weizen and weisse a bit confused. Weisse is the weaker, lighter beer. Apparantly, Ireks is 100% wheat, therefore no barly to wheat ratio to screw up by adding barly malt. Jay Hersh recommended BME extract for a barley/wheat mix. I'm going to add one can of malt extract and make a Dunkel Weizen. Should the starting gravity register high enough, I will call it Weizen Bock. Weizen Bocks were highly recommended in a few of the replies. Thanks again to everyone. -Craig Flowers (flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 10:32:47 EDT From: lighthouse!rob at uunet.UU.NET (Rob Kedoin) Subject: please add... Please add homebrew at lighthouse.com to your mailing list. Thanks in advance, Rob Kedoin rob at lighthouse.com Lighthouse Design, Ltd 6516 Western Avenue Chevy Chase, MD 20815 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 11:18:11 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: Coffee grinders On Thu, 11 Apr 91 11:15:48 CDT, jlf at poplar.cray.com (John Freeman) said: John> I used to use a coffee grinder with my hand drill to provide power. John> Corona takes a minute or two per pound and is much more uniform. John> My advice - get a Corona and don't waste time with a coffee grinder. Quick note to those who want to drive their Corona with a power-drill. I smoked my Black-and-Decker VSR drill after grinding about three batches worth of grain. My suspicion is that the drill is designed for high speed and low torque, and that unless you can gear it down, you'll melt the winding insulation like I did. My solution? Hook up my Skil Hammer Drill to it. It has a lower speed but much higher torque. Of course it costs $100, which drives the cost of the grinding system up... :-( Have any of you build a roller mill? My brew store owner had one, and it was great, but I think he said he spent over $1000 on it! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 08:30:22 pdt From: Ted Manahan <tedm at hpcvcbp.cv.hp.com> Subject: Dry hopping A quick note on dry hopping. I tried it once for a holiday ale; It was your basic American pale ale, with (Wilamette?) hops added to the secondary. It tasted pretty good. I told people to drink it quickly, as I was afraid that the dry hopping would introduce an infection that would show up in a month or so. Well, one of the people I gave it to stored it in his refrigerator for months. I was at his house the next summer, and he pulled one out. I never save my own brews for that long! Anyway, it tasted twice as good as it did when fresh brewed! No infection at all. Better than Anchor Liberty Ale! The moral of this story is - don't worry too much; just do it! Ted Manahan tedm at hp-pcd.cv.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1991 11:42 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: Head retention; Dry hopping; Straining These remarks go back several issues: Dan Needham asked about carbonating in kegs. I've been artifically carbonating my beers for several years. I've found it necessary to *really* overpressurize the keg (50 or 60 PSI) for 2 or 3 days. Don't shake or roll the keg else you'll get big fish-eye bubbles instead of the smaller ones that result from letting it sit. Also, the colder you can get the keg while doing this the better. Cold beer absorbs CO2 better than warm beer. Since the beer is overpressurized, it'll take a while to settle down to 8 PSI after you tap the keg. I usually depressurize just prior to pulling a beer. You'll have to do this for the first 8 or 10 beers. Dan Strahs asked about adding maize for head retention: Flaked maize is not the best way to go for head retention. Ditto the other remarks about Cara Pils, Crystal and Wheat malt. I've used all with good success. Several other factors could be causing the thin head on your beer: Did you wash any of your equipment with detergent? If so, you have to rinse, rinse, rinse to make sure none of it is left. Detergent breaks the surface tension of liquids and the head of your beer along with it. Did you use sugar in your recipe? If so, shuck the sugar next time and use an equivalent amount of dried malt extract. All malt beers are thicker and more likely to exhibit good head retention than are sugar beers. I usually add a cup or two of crystal malt to any and all extract beers. Crystal malt adds unfermentables to the wort which end up giving the final beer an all-grain character and more mouth-feel. This also helps with head retention. Bob Clark wanted to know how Sierra Nevada gets those aromatics in their beer. I asked Ken Grossman that last year while touring the brewery. He dry hops and likes to use "gummy hops". I haven't dry-hopped in a while but I've always been disappointed by the aromatics (rather, the lack of) from finish hopping. I built a modified hop back last year for use with my BrewCaps. In one batch I used Cascades, the other Chinooks ( a nice gummy hop). The Cascade batch had no aromatics (just like old times). The Chinook batch was wonderful! Conclusion: If you're not dry-hopping, try a really high alpha hop for finishing to increase the aromatics. Low alpha finish hops are a waste of time and hops. If you are dry-hopping, try high alpha hops but go easy on the quantities. 1/4 to 1/2 ounce per five- gallon batch should be plenty. And finally, a quick reminder of the pot-scrubber-in-a-mesh-bag tech- nique for separating hops from your boiling wort/dry-hopped beer. Tie a copperwound pot scrubber around the end of your pick-up tube. Tie a fine mesh hop bag (No-See'um netting from a camping store works well, too) around the scrubber, in effect putting the scrubber in a bag. Suspend the bottom of the pick-up tube several inches above trub/sediment and siphon. A painless, efficient technique. Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 10:43:12 CDT From: bradley at dehn.math.nwu.edu (R. Bradley) Subject: Lies, damn lies and Guinness Gee, I was so happy to get this visiting faculty position at Northwestern, but when I hear the way you folks dump on Evanston, it makes me glad I'll be leaving in a few months :-) First, the outright lie. Graig Flowers says: Craig> Evanston, including Northwestern University, is dry. Then, BIOSCTH at UMCVMB.MISSOURI.EDU says: BIOS> Brewpubs in Evanston ... Not likely. Evanston is the home of the BIOS> Women's Temperance League (sic) -- the teetotaling biddies that were BIOS> ....... BIOS> The only good thing I know about Evanston, beer-wise that is, is that it's BIOS> on the northern border of The City of Broad Shoulders. Get a cab and go BIOS> to the Goose Island Brewery. Just the facts, Ma'am: There are no brewpubs in Evanston, and the Goose Island is your best bet; it's about $15 by cab, easily accessed by the CTA and the beer is good and fresh. Evanston WAS a dry town, until 1971. Now, there are about as many pubs as you would expect in a suburb of its size, at least in "downtown"; I suppose the periphery long ago accustomed itself to drinking in the neighbouring townships. Most pubs serve Miller and have sports on TV, but there's one good pub. It's called Tommy Nevin's, 1500 Sherman Ave., right across from the Holiday Inn. They have half a dozen imports on tap, always fresh, and they know how to draw a pint of Guinness. The ambience is pseudo-Irish, there's no TV and the food is decent. It's associated with the Davis Street Fish Market, a restaurant where the fish is superb and the beer list closely approximates Tommy Nevin's. And, no, the campus isn't dry. However, the majority of American campuses I've visited in the last year were. (Just as well I didn't get that job at Eastern Washington U. :-) The Women's Christian Temperance Union is indeed headquartered here, but are a much bigger force, e.g., in Toronto (part of which is STILL dry; a referendum was held just a few years ago and that's what the RESIDENTS of High Park want). Nowadays, the WCTU doesn't lobby against drink but instead does charitable work on real causes: hunger, homelessness, child abuse, etc. Perhaps they've decided it's easier treating the symptoms....... Rob Bradley bradley at math.nwu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 10:53:55 EST From: pkel at psych.purdue.edu (Paul L. Kelly) Subject: Homebrew from Canada, Lots-o-repitching: evaluation I have an idea for the person(s) having trouble sending homebrew to the US. Maybe you could do a relay thing where you ship the beer to somebody on the Canada/US border, and they cart it across to a place where they could ship it to the AHA. You could call it "the Underground Aleroad" :). This dead horse has been beaten to a pulp, but since I have two cents to add, I figure I might as well. I met Father Barleywine this past weekend at a homebrewers club meeting, and he had several fine beers with him, which he claims were brewed with his repitching technique. If anyone has forgotten, it involves something like tossing new, cooled wort on top of the yeast from the last batch. The beer was *very* good. Now let's be pragmatic about this. Despite all the hoopla about yeast mutations over "generations" of beer, it would seem that repitching works, at least for this individual. I would say that the real proof of a brewing technique is in the finished product.If you can handle the volume (repitching this way requires that you brew often), then give it a try. I intend to do so, as soon as the opportunity (i.e. money and time for brewing) presents itself. Paul L. Kelly (pkel at brazil.psych.purdue.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1991 11:16:26 -0600 From: flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu Subject: Rare Trappiste Ale After reading of the many exploits of Digesters travelling in Europe and all over the US, I never thought I would taste anything others haven't already posted about. As luck would have it, I have had the opportunity to taste one of the rarer Trappiste Ales. A recent aquaintance travels to Belgium a few times a year for work. He brought back a Trappiste Ale and said the only place you could get it was at the Abbey. It came in a brown bottle and had no label. The cap is marked: Trappistenbier Westvleteren ABT. I looked it up in Jackson's book (the first edition) and found it was made by one of the 6 Abbeys that can lawfully call their beers Trappist. The abbey is run by the St. Sixtus Brothers and is refered to as the Westvleteren Abbey. They brew beer mainly for the brothers and will sell to visiters. The beer is not available away from the Abbey, although a local brewery brews another beer under the Brother's direction. This was about all Jackson had. Could someone look this up in Jackson's latest edition to see if there is any other information? For the truly curious, the side of the cap reads: ST. SIXTUSABDIJ V.Z.W. B-8983 Vleteren. I don't know if Vleteren is town but that's what I would guess. I don't understand the ABDIJ connected to St. Sixtus nor whether B-8983 is in any way significant. The beer is 11% alcohol by vol (also marked on the cap) and was very sweet and suprisingly well balanced. Definetly a sipping brew. It had plenty of yeast that was floculating in clumps in the lower quarter of the bottle. It was impossible to pour even half the beer without any yeast. I noticed no yeast bite, but I suppose it could have been masked by the high alcohol. The color was a deep, clear brown. I really liked it and was suprised it survived the trip in such good condition. I have no idea how much it cost. I am attempting to culture the yeast. I know of no practical way to share it with anyone, unless, of course, you live nearby, in which case you're more than welcome to a sample of the recultured yeast. It's probably a bit too much for my Dunkel Weizen, huh? -Craig Flowers (flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 10:40:12 MST From: Steve Dempsey <steved at longs.LANCE.ColoState.Edu> Subject: Re: Tygon tubing In HBD#614 Jack Webb <JACK.L.WEBB at OFFICE.WANG.COM> writes: > A friend showed me an ad for "Tygon" beverage/food tubing. According to him, > this stuff was originally designed for the ice cream industry, and won't > promote bacterial growth. He made the obvious connection to homebrewing. > According to the ad, "Tygon B-44-3 tubing is odorless and taste-free, so it > won't alter your formula for success." Won't promote bacterical growth, but probably won't prevent it either, and if it does I don't want that antiseptic in my beer. I've seen this stuff in Cole Parmer (big lab supply vendor) catalogs. They also have lots of fancy tubing for handling corrosives, solvents, and other less benign liquids than beer. The cost for these was in the few dollars per foot range -- talk about overkill! I go for the cheap ($.27/foot) FDA clear vinyl hose from the local hardware store for siphon hoses, etc. where the exposure time is low. For service lines from kegs the standard beer tubing is equally cheap and maintainable. When they accumulate enough gunk and become slightly opaque I simply replace them. Steve Dempsey, Center for Computer Assisted Engineering Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523 +1 303 491 0630 INET: steved at longs.LANCE.ColoState.Edu, dempsey at handel.CS.ColoState.Edu UUCP: boulder!ccncsu!longs.LANCE.ColoState.Edu!steved, ...!ncar!handel!dempsey Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 09:20:23 PDT From: polstra!jdp at uunet.UU.NET (John Polstra) Subject: Vodka and Fermentation Locks Regarding the problem of water being sucked from the fermentation lock into the carboy: There are two kinds of fermentation locks on the market. One has a moving float, and the other is an S-shaped tube with no moving parts. The S-shaped design is better, because it will bubble in either direction and it will not let water be drawn into the carboy. John Polstra polstra!jdp at uunet.uu.net Polstra & Co., Inc. ...!uunet!polstra!jdp Seattle, Washington USA (206) 932-6482 "Self-knowledge is always bad news." -- John Barth Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 13:03:13 EDT From: JWHITE at maine.maine.edu (Jim White) Subject: Coffee grinders / grain malt. >Date: Wed, 10 Apr 91 12:05:13 CDT >From: kswanson at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson) >Subject: Re: cracking/crushing/grinding grains... > >Does anyone use a home coffee grinder to crush grains? If so, how effective is >this? I have one of these things, and granted one can't grind too much at a >time, it would be nice to use this thing for something, as I don't drink coffee. > >Kurt. > I usually add a bit of crystal or other flavoring malt to an extract brew, and always use my 'cheap' little coffee grinder. It's the motorized kind with twin blades that rotate horizontally at about a zillion rpms. One does need to take care, as it can turn the malt grains into a fine powder in about 10 seconds. I usually grind 1/3 cup at a time in small bursts until it looks ok. It doesn't get em all, and grinds some too fine, but it's preferable (to me) than a rolling pin. Jim White Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Apr 91 13:49:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: Lab chemicals as additives In perusing my new Carolina Biological catalog, I have found some chemicals that would be useful in tayloring the mineral profile of my water. My question ot any lab types out there: Can I assume that a reagent grade chemical will be safe to use in my beer, (providing that the chemical is not poisonous in the first place). How about the same question for what they call "lab grade"? Thanks a bunch, Dan Graham, WA6CNN Beer made with the Derry air, (Derry, New Hampshire) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1991 11:06:33 PDT From: John_Zettler.ADFMcLean_CSD at xerox.com Subject: SAM ADAMS re: Varieties of Sam Adams (TSAMSEL 8/12) I have found five varieties of Sam Adams at my local Safeway in the DC area (Fairfax, Virginia). However, only the Original and Lightship are continuously stocked. These five are: - Original - Lightship (a Light Beer - 1/3 less flavor than regular) - Boston Ale - Winter Lager - Double Bock My personal taste is that the original is far superior to all but the Winter Lager. The Double Bock is interesting for a change of pace. P.S. - No success brewing a replica of Sam Adams original (although not one of my homebrew goals), yet I find many people compare much homebrew to Sam Adams, as it is the only domestic premium they have previously tried. Thanks for the Cooper's Australian recipe, I will give it a try. JZ Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Apr 91 10:33:29 EST From: Jack Webb <JACK.L.WEBB at OFFICE.WANG.COM> Subject: RE: Sam Adams Double Bock A couple of HBDs ago, Dan Graham asked about Sam Adams Double Bock beer. I tried getting this to him a few times without success, so have to post. Hey Dan, how about sending me something so I can see what the hell your address is? My attempts seem to keep getting lost in the Derry Air :-) Anyhoo... I would highly recommend the brew (aka Dopplebock in Germany). Wonderful stuff - dark, heavy, malty, potent! I enjoyed last years' batch so much I brewed a version of my own. Still, I'll pick up some of theirs again as well. Jack Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 14:17:15 CDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) On Pitching yeast while hot: I always make a "1-hr starter bottle" by taking a little bit of wort at the start of the boil, then add cold tap water to it to cool it down, then add the yeast and shake. I've pitched yeast at anywhere from 80F to 105F. Anything over 100, and It seems to start slowly, possibly indicating that I've killed a significant portion of the yeast. 95F works fine - It usually starts off within 6 hours - I try to shoot for 85F, though. I think the highest temperate you can get away with without killing the yeast will stimulate it, and get it going faster. The wort is usually cooled to near it's final temperate within the next few hours - There isn't time to produce an appreciable amount of "off flavors". As long as you don't kill off much of the yeast, I don't see how it could be "damaged". I usually do the "sparge hot wort into cold water method", so the aeration is in the Cold water, not the hot wort. I seem to remember Papazian saying something in TCJOHB about not aerating the wort until it has cooled completely. On airlocks: If you use an S-shaped double bubble airlock, A vacuum in the carboy will not pull water back into the wort. I always use them for the first few hours in the carboy, where the cooling wort may create a vacuum. Once when I attached a blow-off tube right away, I had it pull water through 3 ft. of hose back into the carboy - never again. Now I make sure that CO2 is being produced before removing the S-airlock and attaching the blowoff tube. After It's done spurting it's stuff, I'll attach any old airlock (always and S-shaped one on a plastic fermenter - It was previously noted that a vacuum can be created when picking them up) The S-shaped airlocks clog more easily than the econo-locks, so you have to watch out. On explosive Carboys: If the tube is 1/4" ID, then it has pi/16 sq. in. cross-sectional area. If you have a, say 14" in diameter carboy, then the area of the bottom is pi * 49 sq. in. If the level of liquid is below the neck of the carboy, then there is ~ 800 times as much total pressure on the bottom of the carboy (plus the pressure from the wieght of the wort!) as there is against the blow-off My apologies for being an asshole in digest #614. bb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 12:58:15 pdt From: QUINT_CHRIS/HP6600_1K at hpesf.cup.hp.com Subject: Evanston's not dry The last digest contained postings that said Evanston was dry. This is no longer true. Evanston is the home of the WCTU, and it was dry until a few years ago, but its "wet" now. While I was at Northwestern they got their first liquor store (Evanston's First Liquors) and several bars, and I gradutated in '86 - so they haven't been dry for at least five years. I don't know of any brewpubs in Evanston, but last time I was in town I went to a place called Tommy Nevins (Sherman and Lake) that had some good English beers on tap. Also, be sure to go to Walker Brothers pancake house on Green Bay road for breakfast - the food there is great. -Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 91 22:12 EDT From: rob at maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Rob McDonald) Subject: Brew On Premises Can anybody point me to a homebrew club anywhere between Toronto and Buffalo? I found the "Sensitive Hombrewers" in Hamilton, but they seem to be inactive as a club right now. None of the homebrew shops around here (Burlington-Hamilton) carry liquid yeast cultures. Does anybody know of a supplier near Toronto? How about mail order houses? Who is near enough that the yeast would survive the trip? Is ordering liquid yeast this way advisable (possible?)? On a slightly different note, the latest thing around here is "Brew On Premises" facilities. They provide the equipment, sell the supplies, and do the cleanup. You mix up the extract and hops, and boil it up in their gas fired kettles. They run it through a heat exchanger to cool it, you pitch it, and leave it to ferment for 12 days. They then filter it and carbonate it, and you bottle it (they sell screw top bottles). They provide for extract brewing only, with recipes posted right on the wall, and helpful staff on hand to direct you. They seem to be aimed at the "cheap beer" crowd (advertizing proclaims 1/2 price beer!). A brewing acquaintance has tried a couple of these, and likes them. I tried one of his, that was supposed to be a Newcastle Brown clone. It was a nice clean tasting brown ale. It certainly wasn't Newcastle Brown. A recent batch of stout had a F.G. of 1.020, a bit higher than usual for this recipe. It foamed like mad (a problem I haven't had since you all straightened me out on pressure and opening the tap fully). Has anybody seen a correlation between F.G. and foaming with kegged brew? .....rob EMAIL: rob at maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca <<< Standard Disclaimers Apply >>> ARCHAIC: Digisonix, 2326 Redfern Rd., Burlington, Ontario, Canada, L7R 1X3. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 91 16:56:47 -0400 (EDT) From: Douglas Allen Luce <dl2p+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Re: sanitary airlocks and carbonation Re: alcohol in the airlock. My molecular bio roomate guesses that the alcohol content of the liquid in an airlock should be at least 80%. I didn't query him at lenght, but he said that alcohol is not nearly as good at destroying things quickly, and a higher concentration of it is required to be useful.... A question: why use either CO2 from a bottle or prime the beer to generating carbonation in the keg? Does it take a lot of CO2 to carbonate? Is it worth it to avoid the yeast sediment? Is there something inherently different in these two processes? It would seem to me that CO2 carbonation is ideal, since you don't waste any beer. dug Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #615, 04/15/91 ************************************* -------
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