HOMEBREW Digest #727 Thu 19 September 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Momily (Jack Schmidling)
  Soy Boy (TSAMSEL)
  hops comments ("Ihor W. Slabicky")
  hyrometer (Russ Gelinas)
  re: scales (Darryl Richman)
  Freezing your hop harvest (Jeff J. Miller)
  Re: scales (Chris Shenton)
  priming & stirring (Michael Zentner)
  Flat beer rescues (Tom Dimock)
  Hydrometer question (ingr!b11!mspe5!guy)
  Christmas brew recipe (ingr!b11!mspe5!guy)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #692 (August 01, 1991) ("Jeffrey T. Strnad")
  Help downloading files to a PC (READMORE.INC)
  berry beers (mcnally)
  Dry Ice Priming, immediate response requested!!! (S94TAYLO)
  Seattle (mcnally)
  Sierra Nevada yeasties (davidsan)
  London pubs (Dances with Workstations)
  all-grain efficiency/all-grain to extract recipe conversion (Tony Babinec)
  Garbage and Plastic Fermentors (Dave Rose)
  Re:  (David J. Murphy)
  Re Soya Sauce (David J. Murphy)
  Brewpub coming for District of Columbia (David J. Murphy)
  AA measurement + peristaltic pumps (korz)
  Hop growing (Seattle) (Norm Hardy)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 17 Sep 91 23:45 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Momily To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling Subject: Another Momily? I was roundly criticized by the first "expert" to review the preliminary cut of "BREW IT AT HOME" and I am wondering if the fraternity is suffering from another "momily". (That's one of those things we believe because mom said so.) He refused to believe that the beer made in the video could have been drinkable because I let the syphon outfall drop into the priming vessel. (Great shot, beautiful billowing foam, nice splashing sound.) He was particularly outraged at the foam. When I reminded him that the foam was CO2 and building a nice anerobic blanket over the beer, he just shook his head and dared me to bring him a bottle of the beer but that is another story. My thoughts on the subject are as follows: 1. The amount of surface area exposed to air in the narrow column of falling beer is trivial and steadily shrinking. 2. The CO2 blanket keeps rising to cover more and more of the column making exposure to air, near zero near the end. 3. If the pros inject oxygen while pitching yeast and homebrewers are supposed to splash it around to oxygenate at pitching time, what harm can a little oxygen do when we want to re-invigorate the fermentation at bottling time? Jack Schmidling P.S. He also claims that a tsp of vitimin C at bottling time will cure the ills of oxygenation. Any thoughts? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1991 7:06:58 -0400 (EDT) From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV Subject: Soy Boy Try Bill Shurtlieff's (and his wife's) books on soy products: The Books of TOFU/MISO/TEMPEH (3 of them) Good info onon oriental fermentations(s) Ted Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 08:58:33 -0400 From: "Ihor W. Slabicky" <iws at sgfb.ssd.ray.com> Subject: hops comments I haven't tried growing hops, but I just finished reading a book about an old English garden at Barton's End, in Kent, England. They mention that hops were grown by the Barton's and other Kentish farmers. The hop fields used to be burned to get rid of aphid infestations. Hops have male and female plants. You really should have one or two male plants and many female plants to have a lot of hops. Aphid infestations have been mentioned here, but I don't think that anyone has mentioned anything about the male/female plants. When you order hop rhizomes, are you give the choice of which you get? Do you get whatever happens to be there when they pack your order? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1991 9:30:19 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: hyrometer Another good use for a hydrometer is to check the results of a mash. For instance, I mashed a pale ale, and wanted it to be dry (ie. low mash temp to give a more fermentable wort). Well, with the help of a hydrometer, I realized that I was too succesful; FG was 1.005, down from 1.038. So next time I'll mash at a little higher temp. I probably would have realized that it was too dry by tasting it, but without the help of the hydrometer, I might not have been able to pinpoint the problem at the mash (it could have been a dry astringency caused by grain tannins, for example). So scientific "stuff" has it's uses. On the other hand, I never weigh hops. Mike L.: Great Bart, man! Russ Gelinas OPAL/ESP at UNH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 06:39:27 -0700 From: darryl at ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman) Subject: re: scales I have two scales. One is a food scale, one of those cheap spring scales that is intended for weighing out food portions. It has no claim to accuracy--my experience tells me it's accurate to about 2 ounces, with a range of up to 10 lbs. It has a plastic tray which holds just over 2 lbs. of malt. The other scale is an old triple beam gram scale that I use for hops, water salts, and occassionally for very small amounts of grain. This is accurate to 1/20 gram, so it is useful for other hobbies like coke dealing on the side. (Honest, officer, that big jar is full of white powder is gypsum! I just call it "rock" because it is! ;-) I have a student balance also, good for 1/2 gram accuracy, which I bought before I got the triple beam from a friend. If anyone wants to make an offer on it, it's in very good shape and retails for $50... --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 8:50:35 CDT From: jmiller at anubis.network.com (Jeff J. Miller) Subject: Freezing your hop harvest For all of you people that are interrested in starting to grow your own hops, maybe you can learn from some of my mistakes. I also have a question about harvesting. For the past two years I have grown my hops at the back of my garden and used lattice work to support there growth. This works ok but the harvesting ends up taking LOTS of time because the vine weaves between every cross member. I think the string idea might work better in that I would imagine that you coule simply cut the string and slide the vine off of it (comments from anyone?). One good thing about the lattice is that when the vines reach the top (10') they mushroom all over it. I got a record 6 1/4 pound harvest (wet weight) this year from the one vine that actually survived and probably half of this harvest was mounded around the top. Another problem is that as the root gets larger it pops new growth EVERYWHERE! I've been thinking of surrounding the hops with something to block their expansion but a little forethought would probably make control easier. My question: It took me close to 12 hours to harvest all of the hops and I really didn't have any idea how I might dry that many. Since I have successfully used the hops straight off the vine I decided that I could pack the hops into freezer bags and freeze them fresh. Has anybody else every tried this method of hop preservation? - -- Jeff Miller Network Systems Corporation Internetwork Group 7600 Boone Avenue North jmiller at anubis.network.com Minneapolis MN 55428 (612)424-4888 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 09:58:34 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: scales On Tue, 17 Sep 1991 14:54:01 -0400 (EDT), R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) said: Russ> What do the rest of you all-grain brewers use for a scale? I use a Sohnle (or something like that). It was about $15-$20 at a kitchen store in a mall. It seems to be pretty well constructed: your basic German engineering... Capacity is 4 pounds, so it's a slight bother to do my double (10 gallon) batches. I seem to recall it's got marks down to 1 or 2 ounce increments. OK, my turn: what do people use to measure the small stuff, like hops or chemicals? I use one of those cheesey drug scales (no comments, please) with the alligator clip and the quarter-circle ruler-guage thing, but doubt it's accuracy. Bis spaeter! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 09:04:52 -0500 From: zentner at ecn.purdue.edu (Michael Zentner) Subject: priming & stirring Danny Breidenbach writes two digests ago about stirring. I say, stir till your heart's content! Stirring is NOT going to cause any problems. By stirring, I mean establishing circulating currents, and not breaking the liquid surface while doing this (stirring gently). If you don't cause any "choppiness" on the surface, the O2 introduced is minimal. If it'll make you feel better about your mixing, go right ahead and stir (again, gently). I've used three methods for bottling: Plain bottling bucket, bottling carboy, and spigoted bucket with bottle filler. By far, my favourite method is using a second carboy. It's more reliably sanitized than plastic buckets, and the siphon tube does not come flopping out of the wort if you pull on it the wrong way. As for the bottle filler, it saves me no time and is an additional sanitation hassle. Before a level of brew is established on the bottom of the bottle, a significant amount of O2 is introduced as well. Simply letting my siphon hose slowly trickle down the side of the bottle has not so far caused any aerobic/oxidation problems. Just my opinions, but use whatever makes you happy...that's the most important thing. Mike Zentner zentner at ecn.purdue.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 09:55:44 EDT From: Tom Dimock <RGG at CORNELLC.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Flat beer rescues Several homebrewers have recently reported brews that did not carbonate well, if at all. My experience closely matches that of Dave Klein in HBD 726. I finally swallowed hard, unbottled all of the beer (a very hoppy ale which had been fermented with MeV English Ale yeast) back into my priming bucket, repitched it with a starter of Whitbread dry ale yeast and re-primed it with 3/4 cup of corn sugar. Then back into fresh bottles. A week later it produces a head (YAYY!) and is quite drinkable. So don't throw it away yet, Dave...... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 9:40:14 CDT From: ingr!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Hydrometer question Greg Wageman writes: > You do a disservice to homebrewers of the scientific bent to suggest > that hydrometers are only useful for determining alcohol content. When > attempting to replicate someone else's recipe it is useful to know if > you've achieved the same O.G. as they, and the hydrometer allows one to > adjust it if necessary. All valid points on hydrometer use. I have never used one thus far in my brewing but I think I'll buy one and start. Now, let's say that I've just brewed up a batch of whatever using someone else's recipe. I take a hydrometer reading and, lo and behold, my specific gravity is off the mark by several points. So what? At this point there is absolutely nothing I can do. I'm certainly not going to toss the batch because I didn't hit it on the head. It will give me an idea of how close I came but my point is that the hydrometer has bought me nothing in the way of being able to fix *this* batch. I am an extract/adjunct brewer and I think I can see where a hydrometer would be of a great deal more service for all-grain brewers. As I said though, I am going to buy a hydrometer and start using it. I am adding several pieces of brewing equipment to my inventory and that is one thing that I had intended to add all along. Just playing devil's advocate. - -- ============================================================================== Guy D. McConnell, Systems Engineer | |"All that is gold does not Intergraph Corp. Mail Stop CR1105 | My | glitter, not all those who Huntsville, AL. 35894-0001 | opinions | wander are lost, the old Computer and Storage Technology | are just | that is strong does not Evaluation Group | exactly | wither, and deep roots are uunet!ingr.com!b11!mspe5!guy | that. | not touched by the frost." (205)730-6289 FAX (205)730-6011 | | J.R.R.T. ============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 9:51:24 CDT From: ingr!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Christmas brew recipe Mike Barker writes: > Over the last few weeks there have been a number of > mentions of Christmas beers. I thought that this year I > would try one of these beers, however, there seems to be a > lack of recipes. The one in the Cat's Meow doesn't appear > to be that different. I am sure that I am not alone with > this problem. What I would like to suggest is that the > next few issues of the Digest carry some favourite > Christmas recipes and favourite Christmas brews. I'll bite. I brewed a Christmas beer based unashamedly on Phil Flemming's recipe that was posted in this forum. I made some adjustments to move it a few degrees towards a darker beer and I toned down the spices a bit since this was my first attempt at a spiced beer. I mistakenly put in a cup of Black Patent malt instead of 1/2 cup because I ordered it that way and I forgot until after I had added it. I will be bottling it this coming weekend and I'll have a taste at that time. Here it is: Christmas in Ireland 5 Gallons 4 pounds Mountmellick Irish Stout Extract 3 pounds Munton & Fison Amber DME 1/2 pound ( 2 cups ) Crystal Malt ( 60 Lovibond ) 1/4 pound ( 1 cup ) Black Patent Malt 1 ounce Bullions hops ( bittering - 55 minutes ) 1/2 ounce Hallertau hops ( finishing - 5 minutes ) 1 pound Clover Honey 12 inches Cinnamon sticks ( or 6 tsp ground cinnamon ) 4 ounces Ginger Root, freshly peeled and grated 2 tsp. Allspice 1 tsp. Cloves 4 each Grated rinds from medium size oranges 1 package WYeast #1084 Irish Stout Yeast Simmer honey and spices in covered pot for 45 minutes. Add cracked grains to 2 gallons cold water and bring to a boil. As soon as boiling starts, remove grains with a strainer. Add malt extracts and bittering hops and boil for 55 minutes. Add finishing hops and boil for 5 more minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in honey and spice mixture and cool. Strain into fermenter containing 3 gallons cold (previously boiled) water and pitch yeast. After vigorous primary fermentation subsides, rack into secondary. Bottle with 7oz. corn sugar or 1.25 cups DME when fermentation completes. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * MERRY CHRISTMAS * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * As I said, I haven't tried it yet but it smells great. I hope it will become a favorite. Enjoy. - -- ============================================================================== Guy D. McConnell, Systems Engineer | |"All that is gold does not Intergraph Corp. Mail Stop CR1105 | My | glitter, not all those who Huntsville, AL. 35894-0001 | opinions | wander are lost, the old Computer and Storage Technology | are just | that is strong does not Evaluation Group | exactly | wither, and deep roots are uunet!ingr.com!b11!mspe5!guy | that. | not touched by the frost." (205)730-6289 FAX (205)730-6011 | | J.R.R.T. ============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1991 11:11:48 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jeffrey T. Strnad" <js1j+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #692 (August 01, 1991) hi.... can you please explain how to access the archives for this list? i guess that contains the back issues of the digest, right? thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Wed 18 Sep 1991 11:41:27 From: READMORE at REMO1.READMORE (READMORE.INC) Subject: Help downloading files to a PC I've been having a problem downloading files from the archives. I'm on a PC usn(oops) using software from FTP called PC/TCP. The problem is I pulled down the INDEX without a problem. When I tried to pull down some of the other files they came out as jiberish (didn't download as ASCII or didn't convert correctly to ASCII, possibilities??). In which format are the files stored?? Are they in a compressed form?? How do I get to those files?? I MUST SEARCH OUT AND EXPLORE STRANGE NEW BEERS, TO BOLDY GO WHERE NO TASTEBUDS HAVE GONE BEFORE. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Meade Eggleston meggleston at readmore.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 08:49:04 -0700 From: mcnally at Pa.dec.com Subject: berry beers If we're going to brag about our bizarre berry beers, then I'll gladly join in. The batch I made started with a mild all-grain wort, involving 2-row and some unmalted wheat flakes. It was mildly hopped with Hallertauer hops. I fermented it for about a week with Chimay yeast, then racked it over ten (!) pounds of boysenberries and added 2 pounds of honey. The second fermentation lasted about another week. I then racked into another carboy and added some dry Goldings hops and a couple handfuls of French oak chips, and let it relax for about three weeks. The result is, as you might guess, thoroughly bizarre. It's really, really red; about the color of Big Red cream soda, in fact. It has a very crisp carbonation and a tart, complex flavor. The bouquet is really amazing. I'd do this again, for sure. I've just recently bottled a Weizen that was re-fermented with 6 pounds of picked-from-a-friend's-tree peaches. To this one I added 8 oz of lactose to balance the acid tang of the fruit, and I think it's going to turn out well. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 11:16 EST From: <S94TAYLO%USUHSB.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Dry Ice Priming, immediate response requested!!! Has anyone tried to prime with Dry ice? If so, how much, in grams is needed to carbonate already saturated room temperature fully fermented apple cider. Also, please comment on reported off flavors contributed by the dry ice. Thanks for any information! Al Taylor Uniformed Services University School of Medicine Bethesda, Maryland s94taylor at usuhsb.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 09:49:49 -0700 From: mcnally at Pa.dec.com Subject: Seattle Thanks to everybody that sent me information about beer in Seattle. I've returned from my two-day business trip there. I was pretty busy, so I was only able to visit four brewpubs (well, some are pubs serving beer made nextdoor): Trolleyman, Big Time, Kirkland Roaster, and the Pacific something-or-other downtown. I was impressed that so many places served cask-conditioned ales (even Trolleyman, where I experienced cask RedHook ESB). I also found Libery Malt Supply, which was a fabulous experience. They don't have a catalog yet, but they're building a mailing list. They carry an amazing variety of English, Belgian, and German malts (including Rachmalz, for those who want to make BBQ beer). I also noticed little 1lb bags of roasted rye. Wow. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Wed Sep 18 10:41:01 PDT 1991 From: davidsan at microsoft.com Subject: Sierra Nevada yeasties People have been conversing much on the topic of culturing yeasties from SNPA bottles. What I'm curious about is the possibility that SN uses a different yeast for its bottle-conditioning, so you're getting a different yeast out of the bottle than they actually use for their fermentation. Does this sound like a possiblity? ============================= Dave Sanderman -- davidsan at microsoft.com "My brain's a hand grenade--Catch!" -- Ice-T Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 13:33:58 -0400 From: buchman at marva1.dco.DEC.COM (Dances with Workstations) Subject: London pubs Sorry to put out yet another request for info that was probably covered in the past, but.... A friend of mine is going to London and Genoa and would like to know about good pubs in either place (especially London). He's not a brewer but he does appreciate good beer. He would also like to know when and where to catch Oktoberfest. I've heard that is that it is in Munich in the first and second weekends of October. Is this right, and is Munich the only place, and are those the only weekends? Anything else you can tell us about Oktoberfest in Germany? My friend flies out on Friday, so if you could reply directly to me I'd appreciate it. Come to think of it, I'd also like to find out whether there are any good Oktoberfest celebrations in the Maryland/Va/Pa area. The Pennsylvania Dutch *must* celebrate it in some small way. Pumpkin beer is in the carboy.... it smells like pumpkin pie. Thanks, Jim Buchman buchman at marva1.enet.dec.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 14:24:04 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: all-grain efficiency/all-grain to extract recipe conversion Recent HBD entries have talked about extract efficiency. Also, someone posed the question about substituting extract for grain, or vice versa. My experience with all-grain brewing efficiency matches others. If the theoretical extract yield is 35 points SG per pound per gallon, or 7 points SG per pound in a 5-gallon batch, I have routinely attained about 30 points SG per pound per gallon, or 6 points SG per pound in a 5 gallon batch. These numbers refer to basic pale malts, such as 6-row American, Klages malt, German pilsner malt, or pale ale malt. Properly cracked malt is an important success factor for brewing. Homebrewers I have known have obtained pre-cracked malt that turned out to be poorly cracked, with consequent loss of efficiency. Also, sparging is important. I've had conversations at our homebrew gatherings in which someone tells me that it took 25 minutes to sparge, and I have to think that's not enough time. You should be recirculating the wort to clarify it, and then topping it off with sparge water at the correct temperature and volume. Sparging ought to take around an hour or more. To convert between extract recipes and all-grain recipes, an approximate guide is that 4 parts pale grain equals 3 parts of dry malt extract. Using these numbers, it is easy for the extract brewer to make the transitional step to partial mashing. Specialty grains, such as crystal malt, chocolate malt, or black malt, can be added to the boil water prior to boil, and then strained from the boil water before addition of extract (and before boil), OR mashed with the pale grain. In the absence of a real lauter tun, at least pour the sweet wort through the mash grain a few times. Colanders and/or spaghetti strainers work well here. Specialty grain amounts in a recipe can be the same, regardless of whether it is an extract, partial mash, or all-grain mash. The above are rules of thumb. I highly endorse the use of a hydrometer along with Dr. Bob Technical's Amazing Wheel of Wort (the latter available through AHA or found in brewing supply stores) to determine your own process capability relative to these norms. I believe that you should "relax and don't worry," but it's nice to brew to a target style and approximately attain it in a way that is approximately replicable. Plus, you'll be well on your way to formulating your own recipes, even if you use a published one as a starting point. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1991 15:31 EDT From: Dave Rose <CHOLM at HUBIO2.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: Garbage and Plastic Fermentors Hello. First, an apology and a plea for help. Apparently many or all of my postings (maybe this one too) have been marred by garbage characters which come up whenever I hit 'backspace.' I don't see them either when entering the message or when reading it later. Apparently I've got some terminal emulation problem that is causing this. I'm using an IBM running Procomm Plus (home) and a Mac running Versaterm Pro (work) to log into a VAX running VMS. Any suggestions are welcome, and I'm sorry for using space to ask what is essentially a non-beer-related question. But, on to beer. Has anyone out there used *plastic* carboys as fermentors? I am talking about clear blue (looks like polycarbonate) water containers. I usually use glass but a stepped-up brewing schedule and some slower-than-usual fermentations have tied them all up. Also the plastic ones would be a cheap alternative, since I get them for a $5 deposit from my water company. I've used them to hold beer temporarily (like between the secondary and the bottle, when mixing in the priming sugar) but have been too chicken to try a full fermentation. Any braver souls out there? Sorry if this posting is filled with /010's. Unfortunately I rely very heavily on the backspace key.... Dave Ros (that's Rose) CHOLM at HUBIO2.HARVARD.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 17:02:44 EDT From: David J. Murphy <djmurphy at wam.umd.edu> Subject: Re: Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 17:07:09 EDT From: David J. Murphy <djmurphy at wam.umd.edu> Subject: Re Soya Sauce John Buchanan in HBD #726 asked about making soya sauce. Here is a description of making soy sace in the Japanese village of Shinohata, circa 1975. The author notes that only four or five families still made their own and that the rest of them relied on the commercial sauces. "You started with equal volumes of soya [soy] beans boiled enough to be soft, and wheat roughly ground into a very course flour--in the average houshold about 15 kilogrammes of each. This you entrusted to a specialist in the next hamlet who kept it in a sealed room at the right temperature, injected the right sort of yeast and so 'put flowers on it [nice phrase].' Then, having got it back home, you added equal quantities of salt and water, and miscellaneous other things according to taste--left over rice, some monosodium glutimate, etc.--stirred vigorously and left it in a shed for a year to let nature take its course, aided by a vigorous stir from any passer-by who happened to think of it; the more frequent and energetic the stirring, the more impressively the mixture would rumble and erupt. When it was thought to be finally ripe you ladled the concoction into especially strong muslin bags and rigged up a screw-jack (locally known as a 'giraffe' [ the word for 'giraffe' is the same as the one for 'dragon']) above it to squeeze all the liquid out. Finally, to make it go further, you boiled that up with extra water, using a thing like a thermometer which measured salt content, to tell you when you were letting your lust for quantity--your fear that your soya sauce would not last the year and you would be forced to *buy* some--go to far at the expense of quality. Several of the hamlet's neighbourhood groups kept a set of this equipment in common, though that caused occasional problems when someone in the neighbourhood, over-desperately keen to get the last drop from the mixture, would screw the jack to tight and split an expensive bag." (Ronald P. Dore, _Shinohata: A Potrait of a Japanese Village_, New York: Pantheon, 1978, pp.80-81.) - --dave murphy <djmurphy at wam.umd.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 17:13:08 EDT From: David J. Murphy <djmurphy at wam.umd.edu> Subject: Brewpub coming for District of Columbia >From the Washington (D.C.) POST of Friday last: "The District's liquor laws have been revised to allow the opening of a brewpub within in the city, and the first is expected to appear in April 1992. Capitol [sic] City Brewing Company plans to open at 1100 New York Avenue Northwest, which [some] might remember as the (now 'historic') Greyhound Station. [It is a deco style building that had been saved from the wrecker and turned into the "lobby" of a new office building. It is right by the Convention Center & close to the old downtown.] "Owners of this brewpub-to-be are David Storch [he has owned a few nightclubs in the D.C. area], and Jack Keniley, who ran Philadelphia's Dock Street Brewing Company and is bringing along a brewmaster from that pub." ...by the way, has anyone heard anything new about the brewwpub that was trying to get going in Alexandria, Virgina? - --dave murphy internet: djmurphy at wam.umd.edu university of maryland at college park Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 15:38 CDT From: ihlpl!korz at att.att.com Subject: AA measurement + peristaltic pumps Here are two questions I've tried asking in the past, but they either got lost (HBD718) or noone had any data at the time (I guess): 1. Is there a way to measure the Alpha Acid % of hops in the privacy of our homes? 2. Does anyone know of a supplier of peristaltic pumps ("hose pumps") that has small (1 gal/min is ok), reasonably priced (under $100) pumps? A pump like this would end my racking hose sanitation woes forever!!! Al. korz at ihlpl.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 91 16:33:03 PDT From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Hop growing (Seattle) I concur with the articles about hop growing in your own backyard. This year, the 5th year of growing hops, found 3 varieties being harvested: (1) Hallertau (1 plant) - 10 oz dried (2) Cascade (1 plant) - 9 oz dried (3) Herzbrucher (4 plants) - 12 oz dried The cones were just starting to turn brown (actually just a few) and the harvest was done in three successive days. Drying was novel this year: I put each variety on a window screen and placed in inside my car, sitting in the sun for the day (inside temp 115f). Only a few hops were in direct sunlight. The windows were obviously closed. Seemed to work quite well and the bagging into the freezer bags (with Seal-a-meal) went well also. The Cascade hop is in its 3rd year. Last year it produced 53 cones (.25 oz). The Hallertau had 3 others like it, but the dog ate one and winter got the other 2. The Hallertau is 5 years active here. The Herzbruchers are the best lager hops of the bunch with an Alpha of (estimated after several batches) of 4-5 AAU. They are 5 years old here. I used rabbit droppings for occasional fertilizer and lots of water. Finally, the car smelled great for a week. Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #727, 09/19/91 ************************************* -------
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