HOMEBREW Digest #1079 Wed 17 February 1993

Digest #1078 Digest #1080

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Installing a Spigot ("Tom")
  Getting Rid of Detergent Residue? (esonn1)
  Sour Brew, Part II (Dan Wood)
  yeast strain selection (THOMASR)
  still more BAA information ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  an HBD-inspired yeast experiment (Joe Boardman)
  I killed my yeast! (Russ Gelinas)
  Australian Yeast (George J Fix)
  galvanized hardware cloth ok for sparging? (John Isenhour)
  The results are in (Chuck Coronella)
  snobs (chris campanelli)
  New Brewmaster at Dock Street (Joseph Nathan Hall)
  wild yeast media/Micah's st ("Daniel F McConnell")
  My yeast is alive! (Russ Gelinas)
  Mash temps. / Digest plumbing (Norm Pyle)
  Archives (Michael Galloway)
  lagering (John_D._Sullivan.wbst311)
  grain bill (Michael Galloway)
  Other Digests (Mark Cronenweth)
  Test Message (Al Marshall)
  hops: rec.gardens request (fwd) (Paul dArmond)
  apologies for previous post (Paul dArmond)
  recipe request (maple) (southard)
  MM vs Corona (korz)
  Beginner questions/aeration/break/too bitter/Irish Red (korz)
  Birmingham Brewing Tour (Part I) (Guy McConnell)
  Re: wyeast 2308 and other stuff (TAN1)
  root beer (Michael Gildner)

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu IMPORTANT NEWS -- PLEASE READ ----------------------------- There will be nobody reading mail sent to homebrew-request during the period Feb 8 through approx. Feb 28. This means that any requests for changes or cancellations will not be handled until the end of the month. Subscription requests will continue to be handled automatically, and the digest will continue to be sent automatically, barring any computing device catastrophes. So if you send a message here and get no immediate reply, or if the digest stops suddenly, please do not panic. Just be patient. ps. and please try to behave yourselves while I'm gone ;-)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 15 Feb 93 08:47:09 GMT From: "Tom" <ceco!CWEMAIL!WAUTS at uunet.UU.NET> Subject: Installing a Spigot Date: 02/15/93 From: Tom Stolfi - CWE1IIN To: Open-Addressing Application for Internet Acc INLINE - CWEMAIL Subject: Installing a Spigot - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am just getting into all grainers and have found that a spigot installed in the boil kettle would speed things up. I have a porcelain over steel stockpot. What type of material is the spigot, what is the cost to install, where can I get the parts, and how long does it take to install? Tom Stolfi wauts at cwemail.ceco.com Commonwealth Edison Co Waukegan, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 93 10:58:52 -0500 From: esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu Subject: Getting Rid of Detergent Residue? >Ulick Stafford writes that detergents should not be used on brewing equipment. > Unfortunately, I have already used detergents on my fermenter several times. >I always sterilize the fermenter and all other brewing equipment using a >bleach solution before brewing, but I am worried about any detergent residue. >Other than using TSP or other base cleaners, is there a product I should use >to get rid of any lingering detergent residue? Our beer has generally been >slow to carbonate, but when it does, it usually carbonates sufficiently. > >Thanks in advance, > >Eugene Sonn >esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu > Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 93 10:06:40 CST From: wood at ranger.rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood) Subject: Sour Brew, Part II First let me say thanks to those who replied in HBD and via email. Experimentation with food grade acid is an interesting thought. Does anyone see problems with adding small amounts to just a few bottles at bottling time? Not that I'm nervous or anything, but I hate to take chances with 5 gallons at a time. Anyway, my friend Brent tried following Charlie's directions. He placed a quantity (sorry, I'm unsure of amount) of pale malt in a cooler with 5 gallons of water at 130 F. He covered the cooler and left it for 19 hours. The temperature had only dropped 20 degrees to 110 F, and the liquid was sweet, with no sign of sourness (tartness?) and no noticible growth. It may have stayed too hot, any other ideas about what went wrong? Also, I had the pleasure of sharing an Imperial Stoudt and Taddy Porter (Samuel Smiths) yesterday, and they both seemed to have a bit of sourness, perhaps more noticable in the Imperial Stoudt. Perhaps I'm misinterpreting something in the flavor, but there does seem to be a much more distinct sour flavor than I've experienced in beers with much more dark grains. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 93 17:12:38 MET From: THOMASR at EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch Subject: yeast strain selection hello all. on this thread about yeast strain selection aka finding a growth medium that will kill everything but the yeast you actually want, I have a few comments. Firstly, there seem to be two lines of discussion going on at the same time, one concerns getting rid of so-called "bugs" and the other concerns getting rid of "wild" yeasts. So, the bug problem first: most of the bacteria we are likely to get in our yeast supply can't survive acidic conditions, so if you sterilise (ie boil) your growth medium (eg wort), which you have previuosly adjusted to pH 4-5 (unnecessary if you mashed your own), the bacteria will not grow anywhere near as fast as your yeast. By the time the sugar is used up, there may well be enough alcohol in there to stop all bacterial growth. (I brew a strong (1085) ale just so that I can get a sample of yeast from the bottled version when I need one). The wild yeast problem, as far as my research has dug up, is not at all trivial. You can stop the growth of ale (top) yeasts compared to lager yeasts by fermenting them on mellibiose as the sugar source. (this should be availabe from Aldrich chemical co, etc). There are no other sure fire ways of separating yeasts, unless you know EXACTLY who the stranger in your wort is. How about streaking plates, and doing small scale runs with all the yeast looking colonies that appear, and then isolating the strain you want by taste or rapidity of clearance. This is how they do it in the breweries. (Assuming they misslaid the clean strain or are looking for a better one. I suppose, having finished this note, that I haven't really said anything new. Oh well. Rob Thomas. P.S. More brewing/beer quotes please..."Poe" was great! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 93 11:36:11 EST From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: still more BAA information BadAssAstronomer writes: > The Jan 93 selections were; Mass Bay Brewing Winter Warmer and > Fisher Brewing Dark Ale. We tasted these yesterday at the brewclub meeting. "Dark Ale" is a misnomer. This stuff was sort of copper colored. I'd say it's at the dark end of the pale ale spectrum. The flavor was nothing to get excited about, either. The Mass Bay Winter Warmer, on the other hand was excellent. Nicely spiced, but not overwhelming. So many spiced beers have a sort of sour flavor, but this does not. Our meeting was outside at a local park, and I'd say that the Winter Warmer lived up to its name. =Spencer W. Thomas | Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704 "Genome Informatician" | Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu | 313-764-8065, FAX 313-764-4133 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 93 10:18:24 MST From: Joe Boardman <boardman at amber.Colorado.EDU> Subject: an HBD-inspired yeast experiment G'day All, This weekend I started a little experiment that was inspired by a thread here a few months ago: "just what are the differences introduced by ale and lager yeasts?". I brewed a 10 gallon batch of a pretty generic (but leaning towards a lager) wort. Then as it came out of the counterflow I split it back and forth between 2 glass carboys. One of these was pitched with a Wyeast 2007 (Pilsen) lager yeast, and is fermenting away at 50-53F. The other was pitched with a Wyeast 1056 (aka SNPA) ale yeast, and is doing its thing separately at 65F. The recipe was: Virginia's Advice Ale/Lager 12 lbs Klages American 2-row malted barley 2 lbs Hinode Calrose California rice 5 oz Saaz plugs at 3.1 alpha 2 oz Tettnang pellets at 4.3 alpha + the two yeasts mentioned above I ground the rice, boiled it and cooled it to 130 with ice. Then I mashed in the grain and the rice at 130 and held for 30 minutes, then did a 2 hour mash between 152 and 145F. The IG was 11.8 Brix (about 1.047), which means my extract rate was in the low 30's. I guess what I've really done is brew a lager and ferment half of it as an ale. I made it very light in color and body so the yeast differences wouldn't be masked. Next time, to be fair, I guess I`ll have to brew an ale-type and do it again. Does anybody want to hazard a guess about the taste differences? Does "clean" really mean anything? Is anybody going to be in Boulder in about 2 months to try some in person? Does anybody "know" they can tell them apart in a double-blind test? I'll report back if there's interest. Cheers, Joe "Remember, never take no cutoffs, and hurry along as fast as you can." advice from Virginia Reed, 1847, after surviving the Donner Party debacle Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1993 13:27:20 -0500 (EST) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: I killed my yeast! Yes I did, and it was cultured-from-the-bottle Chimay Red yeast :-( The bleach-water was most of the way back up the blow-off tube, and when I lifted it out of the overflow container to drain it back down, it splashed back up the tube and into the wort. What looked to be a ferment starting is now dead, dead, dead. It made me wonder why I had bleach in the overflow bucket anyway. Obviously, disconnection the blow-off at the carboy end would have been a much better idea. My plan is to boil it again, to boil off the bleach, cool it, and if it still tastes ok, pitch some other yeast. Will this work, or has the chlorine already ruined it? I'm not happy...... Russ G. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 14:01:22 -0600 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Australian Yeast This post is a request for information from those who have brewed with strains of active dry yeast from Australia. The strains I am particularly interested in are Mauri Foods Y327 Ale, and Mauri Foods Y497 Lager. It is my understanding that they were (are?) distributed in Canada by Superior Brewing Supplies. I am preparing a talk for the Microbrewers Conference in New Orleans, which will survey the important yeast strains currently available. There are some small operations, which due to limitations of equipment and other reasons, are forced into the use of dry yeast. Thus, I felt it is important to touch on some of the better versions. I have been told that the above strains have very high % cell viabilities, and very low bacterial/wild yeast counts. Private e-mail relating practical experience with these strains would be gratefully received. George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 93 17:57:59 CST From: hopduvel!john at linac.fnal.gov (John Isenhour) Subject: galvanized hardware cloth ok for sparging? I've been wanting to build a mash/sparge cooler with a mesh filter as the rigid manifold arrangement sits a little too high off the bottom of my cooler. I havent been able to locate brass or stainless mesh locally but I found some 1/8" galvanized hardware cloth. I haven't heard of anyone using this - is there a problem? Also, what is a reasonable minimum length of mesh if its rolled into a tube? tnx! - -- John de HopDuvel home:john at hopduvel.uucp work:isenhour at lambic.fnal.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 93 21:42 MTS From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU> Subject: The results are in The results of a survey of the HBD readership are in! As you may recall, I recently submitted a note to the HBD (about a week and a half ago) inviting everyone to mail me with a desriptor of their brewing level. What a response!! By 10 a.m., I'd received more than 100 responses! Thanks to all for participating. (And what a talkative crowd! Sorry that I couldn't answer messages individually.) The admittedly inadequately simple categories from which I asked people to choose were as follows: All Grain if you rarely use extract for your brewing, other than for yeast culturing, Intermediate if you do some mashing, partial mashing, some yeast culturing, etc., but you don't consider yourself very experienced, or Extract if you are relatively new to the brewing process, haven't tried mashing, or in general, consider yourself to be on the steepest part of the learning curve. The tallies are as follows: All Grain: 55 Intermediate: 65 Extract: 69 I'd like to make a few comments regarding the survey. Categorization: Obviously, as stated above, a categarization of only three simple slots describes the multidimensional brewer only crudely. Some people have _never_ brewed with extract; some have brewed for ten or more years with extract only. And so on. I wanted to conduct this poll only to convince novice brewers that they really should use the HBD, not to annoy readers by forcing them to categorize themselves. Enough said! Statistical Discussion: The results to this poll are most likely not truly representative of the entire HBD readership. I can think of several readers who regularly post in the HBD who didn't reply. I'm sure that more than 189 people read the HBD. And I suspect that the tone of my original message might have motivated those on the steepest part of the learning curve to reply, skewing the results. Also, bravado or modesty might cause people to describe themselves incorrectly. Use of the HBD: I did all this for one simple reason. I want new brewers to feel free to use the HBD as a valuable resource for talking with experienced brewers for the purpose of improving their brewing, as I did. Several beginners told me that they were certainly intimidated from asking questions. The HBD has got to be the greatest resource available; use it. From my results, a _significant_ fraction of the readership brews extract only. You're not alone! A few commented that they're annoyed by such questions as "How do you brew beer?" Obviously, questions like this are inappropriate, but this doesn't mean that all discussion should be on the level of comparitive mashing methods. So, use the HBD, but use it wisely. So there you have it. An incomplete, inadequate survey of the HBD readership. That's my contribution to brewing science for now. (But with a Ph.D. in chemical engineering, I should be able to do better than that!) Cheers! Chuck P.S. For those who must know, I have never tried mashing. I use extracts and specialty grains (and fruits and spices too, yumm!) Maybe someday when I get a regular job (and a house with a basement). Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 93 22:29 CST From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: snobs > > In Michigan, you will find very little broken glass, nor will > find litter from empty cans or cardboard packaging . . . > Really? Guess you've never been to Detroit. Lately there seems to be a tendency towards complaining about the various types of snobs that can be found on the Digest. Be it all-grain or unix, I feel that these gripes are small potatoes. I think there exists a more serious type of snob out there which threatens the very foundation of the homebrewing community. And since it looks like no one else notices, I shall take it upon myself to point it out the general HBD community. I would like to complain about fart snobs. I'm sure you're aware of whom I speak. Tell me if this sounds familiar: You're at a homebrew gathering, drinking a beer, trying to decipher the subtle nuances of the hop aroma, the malt nose and the estery parfum when all of a sudden: (sniff) Oh man! Who the hell did that? GODDAMMITROGER!!! We have all suffered from such individuals. You know who they are. Its that special breed of homebrewer who can bust worse than anyone else around. This is one type of snob I cannot tolerate. It's not enough that a fart snob can emit such a heinous stench and at the same time maintain the facade of calm innocence nor make an otherwise gentle, God-fearing group of people trample one another in a stampede for fresh air. What really irks me is that these people won't share their technique with others. How do they do it? What's the secret? How can they rip so vile that eyes water, dogs howl and vultures circle? God knows I've tried. I've eaten all the wrong foods. I've done shots of yeast slurry. Hell, I've even sampled all the novice homebrew put in front of me. The result? Nothing. Oh sure, what I could pass showed promise since it did offend my wife, especially when I wafted the blankets. But I think its more of a female thing than anything else. Which brings up another question: why don't women fart? Is their anatomy different in that the human female can't physically fart? Lets face it, have you ever heard a woman let one go? I know I haven't. It is my personal opinion that if a woman would fart periodically, and I mean really let loose with a long, loud stinkie, she would feel a lot better. Hell, I'll go one step further to say that most problems in the world today could be solved diplomatically if the two parties involved would just sit down and rip a few together. Who's to say it wouldn't work. Stranger things have happened. But I digress. After much contemplation, I have come to the conclusion that maybe, just maybe, I not destined for such greatness. Perhaps I should accept the fact that I'm just a mediocre farter. It could be that these people are not self-made but born to greatness. chris campanelli Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 01:33:22 EDT From: joseph at joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) Subject: New Brewmaster at Dock Street I just spent an entertaining evening tasting infected beers at our new homebrewing club (now officially christened B.U.Z.Z. -- Beer Unlimited's Zany Zymurgists, after the store that sponsors it). The guest of honor was Nick Funnell, new (2 mo.) head brewmaster at Dock Street in Philadelphia. Nick is an entirely pleasant tall, lanky somewhat English fellow who obviously has a great love of beer, and in particular cask ale. I think things are looking up for Dock Street. (Jim Busch, did you hear this? It's about time!) Nick brought along an ersatz "Framboise," which he claimed had a Flanders brown base. I'm practicing for the BJCP exam and was busily filling out scoresheets as the beers wandered by, and was oh-so-pleased to give his (Dock Street's) brew a 41. Really, the only problem with it was a slight lack of body. Otherwise it was nearly perfectly balanced, with an awesome raspberry nose, tenacious head, clear and tart fruit flavor, and an interesting chocolate-toasted malt finish. One of those beers even your WIFE would love. (Not my words, but we know the stereotypes.) He plans to import some casks from England shortly, and claims to be addicted to real ale. Judging by the slight shudder and glassy look he gave while saying this ... It turns out that his apartment is right on my way home. Since he lacks a car at this point, I dropped him off and was invited in to share some cocoa with him and his wife Barbara. Why do we make it so hard for these people to get work permits? We need MORE of them! Yes, I think things are looking up at Dock Street! ================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================ uunet!joebloe!joseph (609) 273-8200 day joseph%joebloe at uunet.uu.net 2102 Ryan's Run East Rt 38 & 41 Maple Shade NJ 08052 Copyright 1993 by Joseph N. Hall. Permission granted to copy and redistribute freely over USENET and by email. Commercial use prohibited. Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 1993 09:23:52 -0500 From: "Daniel F McConnell" <Daniel.F.McConnell at med.umich.edu> Subject: wild yeast media/Micah's st Subject: Time:9:19 AM OFFICE MEMO wild yeast media/Micah's starter Date:2/16/93 In HBD #1077 George Fix writes: Subject: Wild Yeast >It is my opinion that the major open problem in brewing >microbiology today is the formulation of an accurate, >practical, and rapid media for the detection of >nonculture yeast. The problem is one of a needle in a >haystack...... >In commercial work, even lower levels of detection are >required (typically in the cells per 100 ml. range). Have you (or anyone else out there) tried Lin's wild yeast medium? I think it contains crystal violet as a culture yeast inhibitor, allowing wild yeasts to grow (or rather, to grow better). Is it better-worse-same-faster than cupric sulfate? The 8th Edition of the ASBC Methods of Analysis contains a section on this media, so I assume that it has some utility and some brewery is using it. Of course if a well funded individual has the ASBC MOA maybe they could respond. The media is available from Siebel. Another note: I have only been on the digest since #999 and in one of the early issuse I saw a reference to Micah's Magical (bionic) Starter. Can anyone either publish the recipe again or direct me to the appropriate back issue? Thanks. DanMcC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 10:00:28 -0500 (EST) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: My yeast is alive! Looks like the bleach solution did not kill the yeast. I warmed up the carboy (by surrounding it with gallon jars of hot water), and it's now fermenting. How the chlorine will affect the taste, I don't know. But it's Chimay yeast, so I can blame any odd flavors on the "weird" yeast :-). RussG Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 08:10:43 MST From: pyle at intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) Subject: Mash temps. / Digest plumbing Andrius asks about Miller's recommended mash temps. I may be speaking out of turn here, since I don't have my copy of Miller handy, but.... I believe Miller's book is mostly about brewing lagers. If that bit of heresay is actually true, then it may explain something. If he is out to brew the finest lager, he doesn't want any starch haze making him look bad. So, he wants to make sure all starch conversion is complete; if it's not, he's going to get a starch haze. To the numbers you mentioned: I believe he said (or meant to say) that _all_ of the starch _may not_ dissolve below 149F. In fact, I would bet most of it does, which is something you can probably get away with in a dark, muddy ale. I don't remember him asking for anything as low as 141F but it may be so. I personally like to mash in the 152 - 158 F range for more body, less alcohol. Unfortunately, I always seem to screw up and get a nice variety of mashing temps before it's all over. ;-) :-0 Mike Schrempp posted about some outfeed roller to use in a mill. Thanks, Mike. I have one question: does the catalog mention the diameter of the rollers? (I assume the 14" and 22" are lengths) A larger diameter is better for grabbing the grain. A note about posting to the digest: If you receive a reply from the daemon that says it will post your article, it _will_ post your article. If it says something like: "there are 42 articles ahead of yours", then it probably won't get in the digest for a couple of days. Anything more than about 30 and there's no way it'll make it in the next digest. Please be patient. My article posted today 2/16 was sent on 2/12. The digest needs a serious dose of liquid plumber, or less posts about snobs, to clear this up. In the meantime, double postings just make things worse, so just cool it and have a beer. Cheers, Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 10:38:31 -0500 From: mgx at solid.ssd.ornl.gov (Michael Galloway) Subject: Archives Neil, I think that the idea of creating and maintaining thread/faq/usefull info archives is long overdue. Nothing could be more usefull than to ftp to the archive and grab a file with information on, say, building a picnic cooler mash/lauter tun (I built one from a 10 gal gott and a 12 in. Phils Phalse Bottom, next brew is going to be all grain!). If you need help or support let me know, I would be glad to manage a thread if that would help lessen the burden. Michael D. Galloway mgx at ornl.gov Living in the WasteLand (of Beer, that is!) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 07:40:36 PST From: John_D._Sullivan.wbst311 at xerox.com Subject: lagering I'm a fairly experienced brewer (all-grain) trying something new to me, a pale lager. I made a starter with my Wyeast pilsen lager yeast (2007?) and pitched at 70 deg F. I had a short lag time and proceeded to lower the temp slowly to 50 deg with my hi-tech lagering system ;carboy covered up sitting under a cracked basement window. (I know, I should have just opened the window.) :) My questions are these: 1)When should I rack to secondary? (with ales I just do primary) 2)When should I dryhop? 3)will minor temperature swings(48-55) adversely affect the beer or should I just rdwhahb? Replies are greatly appreciated. John Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 11:12:17 -0500 From: mgx at solid.ssd.ornl.gov (Michael Galloway) Subject: grain bill Hey ... I went down to my local brew shop yesterday to but some grain for my first batch of all-grain brew (a SNPA clone). The proprietor looked at me rather dubiously when i gave him the grain bill: 8 lb British Pale Ale Malt 1 lb British Crystal Malt (50L) He seemed to think that the grain bill was short. I figured that with 30 pts/lb/gal I would get an OG of about 1050. He made some comments about Dave Millers unrealistic effiencies and seemed to think that 25 pts/lb/gal was more reasonable. I assumed that 30 was a "good" number considering all i've read here on the digest. My setup is a 10 gal Gott cooler with a Phils Phalse Bottom as a combination mash/lauter tun. Am I being unrealistic? Perhaps I should go buy another pound or two? michael galloway mgx at ornl.gov Living in the WasteLand (of Beer, that is!) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 11:23 EST From: Mark Cronenweth <CRONEN at vms.cis.pitt.edu> Subject: Other Digests In a recent HBD, I heard mention of the Cider Digest. The address for this digest was posted, I SUB'd, and have received some great info. that I know is going to improve my cider tremendously - thanks Jay. I've also heard rumors of a MEAD DIGEST out there somewhere. If anybody has addresses for any online MEAD info., recipes, etc. please post me at: CRONEN at VMS.CIS.PITT.EDU Some purists will probably flame me for mentioning other fermentable materials on the HBD, but I can't help myself! I love the HBD & look forward to reading it every day. I even check my mail for it on weekends. But I'm just a sleaze-bag when it comes to fermentation. I'm not too proud to ferment anything (once) ! - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mark Cronenweth University of Pittsburgh School of Education "From the sublime to the ridiculous is but a step." - Napoleon - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 10:03:34 PST From: alm at brewery.ht.intel.com (Al Marshall) Subject: Test Message Test Message; Please forgive the use of bandwidth. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 08:59:31 -0800 (PST) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: hops: rec.gardens request (fwd) James, I've been getting my hop cuttings froms Freshops in Philomath, Ore. They have given good service and are quite friendly over the phone. Directory assistance for are code (503) should find them... I don't have any here at work, but you should check out Zymurgy magazine. This is the publication of the American Homebrewers Association. It can be found at large newsdealers and bookstores (usually among the gourmet and food/wine magazines). Everyone that sells hop cuttings advertises here. If you want more info and contacts, send e-mail message with both the subject and message "SUSCRIBE" to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.ph.com to get the daily internet digest for homebrewers. It has around 1500 members and is better behaved than rec.crafts.brewing where it is also echoed. cheers, Paul de Armond. - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1993 12:07:01 -0800 From: Mark Turner <mturner at henson.cc.wwu.edu> To: paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu Subject: hops: rec.gardens request Paul, I came across this request in rec.gardens and thought you might be able to shed some light for the interested party. - -- Mark James White (james at rchland.vnet.ibm.com) wrote: : Speaking of beer making and gardening. Does anyone know of a good source : for hop plants? I believe that I have to buy the roots. I see in some of : of the catalogs, adds for hops but they are all from the same source and none : provide the real variety name. I mail ordered hop rhizomes from Marysville Oast in Oregon. I don't have a phone number for them, but here's the address: Marysville Oast 866 NE 1000 Oaks Corvallis, OR 97330 I don't recall which varieties I purchased (and the markers are covered with snow right now, so I can't read them from here!), but both grew well and produced modestly, which is expected in the first year. I'm looking forward to an increased harvest this fall! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 09:12:35 -0800 (PST) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: apologies for previous post To All, sorry about the preceeding post. I used cc: to get the digest address and forgot to delete the cc: line before sending. Mea Culpa, Paul. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 10:34:50 PST From: southard at biology.UCSC.EDU Subject: recipe request (maple) In HBD #1078, Eric Mrozek mentioned a Maple Ale recipe posted "a couple o' months back". This may have been before I started reading the digest. Anyway it happens that I picked up a quart of maple syrup (grade c, dark amber, $6) just yesterday. Any and all suggestions for using this in a brew would be appreciated. I would definitely like to be able to taste the maple - is a qt too much for 5 gal? For backround, I am not an all grain brewer, but have done several partial mashes with good results. I know that Cats Meow probably contains some good maple beer recipes, but I don't know how to access it. Thanks in advance for any help. Jon Southard Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 13:12 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: MM vs Corona JS writes: > In the info he mailed out, he only mentions his wife and himself. He also > refers to a "Midwestern micro-brewery" that prefers to use a Corona because > of its superior crushing. I would be interested in knowing the name of this > brewery. The only one I know of in the Midwest using a Corona, never heard > of him and the owner assures me it is a tight budget, not preference that has > him using the Corona. I have spoken to that brewmaster from the "Midwestern micro-brewery" and he did say to me that he prefers the crush of the Corona mill (drill-powered by the way) over the MaltMill, but I disagreed with him then and still disagree with him. He and Roy seem to be the only two people that I've heard of liking the Corona over the MaltMill. I have an older model MaltMill and am very happy with it, but the more-recent ones I've seen are, indeed, even better. On the older models, two pieces of plastic blocked grains from "falling off the end of the roller in stead of being crushed" whereas the current design has the rollers going all the way flush with their mounting plates. On my design, I need to put a tray under the outlet chute to catch the grains -- the current design sits over a bucket, which, by the way, reduces airbourne grain dust. As much as I've disagreed with Jack (I've got a few megabytes of off-line arguments on disk too), I've got to admit, he's built the best homebrew-sized grain mill on the market. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 14:11 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Beginner questions/aeration/break/too bitter/Irish Red Nathan writes: >I have recently become interested in HB, and have been reading HBD for a few >mos. I am wondering if there are any magazines out there for HB, especially >ones with help, hints and recipes for the novice. I have seen some >references to "Zymurgy" in articles by Bob Jones and others. Is this what I'm >looking for? Also any good liturature for the beginner? Yes, Zymurgy has articles targeted for virtually all homebrewers ranging from beginner to expert. I think that not only a subsciption is in order if you are serious about homebrewing, but also get back-issues also (especially the special issues on Hops, Extract, Troubleshooting and eventually All-grain). I feel the best way to start, however is by reading "The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing" by Charlie Papazian. The articles in Zymurgy will make more sense when you learn the basics and the vocabulary of homebrewing. >Thank you, >Nate Clark >grs04736 at conrad.appstate.edu ^^^^^^^^ Look up Kinney Baughman if he hasn't contacted you yet. He may still be as AppState, but last heard he's a brewmaster somewhere in the vicinity. ************************ John writes: > I could use a little help with the subjects of wort aeration and >the formation and importance of hot and cold break. > First, wort aeration. On reading beginner's books I get the impres- >sion that I should boil up my extract, grains, etc in my brewpot, and then >pour the wort through a strainer into my primary, pitch the yeast, seal and >leave alone. Through this forum and from other sources I've learned that >the yeast needs oxygen to reproduce therefore the wort should be shaken, >stirred vigorously just before or after pitching. What is the experts' >advice? Do I leave the wort alone or not? If you are doing a full, 5-gallon boil, pouring it through a strainer will aerate it enough, but you should let it cool before aerating. When the wort is hot (over 80F) the oxygen you add during aeration will react with compounds in the wort to oxidize them. This is Hot Side Aeration (HSA) which you've probably noticed lately in HBD and is generally regarded as bad (although it appears that many breweries get away with it). If you are doing a partial boil, as you've noted that you do, I feel you still may need to do some aeration to get a good amount of oxygen in the wort. The warning about letting it cool below 80F before aerating STILL APPLIES. Make sure you don't use your wooden spoon to aerate -- you just can't sanitize wood well enough and should only use wooden utensils in the boil. > Regarding hot andcold break. As I understand it hot break is formed >during the boiling of the wort. Cold break must be formed by cooling the >wort after the boil. A few questions. I only boil about one and a half >gallons and add that to three and a half gallons of water in my primary - >does just chilling the 1 1/2 gallons produce a cold break? Yes, the down side is that with a 5-gallon boil you will have to leave a quart of wort behind in the kettle to avoid pouring the break into the fermenter. With a 1.5-gallon boil you will still have something close to a quart of break which is a much bigger percentage of your boil. Some have suggested putting this break-wort in a jar, letting it settle in the fridge and using it, but that's too much to worry about right now. >Does the rate of >cooling affect the formation of a cold break and if so how fast should it >be cooled? Yes. The simple answer is: "as quickly as possible" but to give you a rough idea, in the wintertime, with my immersion chiller, I get from 212F to 70F in about 15-20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the wort. >I'm assuming that cooling my 1 1/2 gal of wort does produce a >cold break which settles to the bottom of my pot with the hot break - should >I take care and siphon the wort off the trub into the primary? I just pour it into the primary and stop just before the trub (break) begins to go in. It's usually 1-2 quarts of wort. >If I siphon >the wort off the trub am I leaving nutrients in the trub that the yeast need? The yeast CAN use the nutrients in the trub, but if you've aerated well, the yeast can synthesize everything they need -- getting it from the trub is just a shortcut for the yeast. Ideally, you may want to give the yeast a few hours in the wort with the break and then siphon off into your primary, but don't worry about it if you don't. > Any help would be greatly appriciated as even the beginners books >are not crystal clear to the beginner. Yes and much less interactive than the HBD. ************************* Alexander writes: >I have just tried a new batch of beer which I brewed with a pilsner kit >(M&F?) in which instead of adding only sugar to the malt mix I used >malt concentrate. My problem is that the taste is too bitter/(malty?). >I would like some suggestions if anyone has any as to why it has turned >out so bitter and general guidelines as to the proper use of malt >extract. There is definately the appropriate amount of alcohol though... There is hopped malt extract and unhopped malt extract, if you added hopped malt extract to your pilsner kit (which, by the way is a bitter style to begin with) you may have made it too bitter for your taste. >My process went as such. >boiled all the water and the malt sugar (liquid), malt extract, and sugar. >then I dumped it all in the carboy as usual. >after cooling I dumped in the yeast ( came with the kit) >after a week in the carboy I added gelatin as a fining agent >waited a few more days and racked to bottles. I have since let the >bottles sit the required three weeks plus a few days. >I have just opened the beer and drunk some, not bad or yeasty as if it >was opened too soon, but definately too bitter. Fear not. The bitterness will mellow a little with age. Your process seems okay (except for the hot aeration -- see above) as long as the sugar you've added doesn't become too large a percentage of your fermentables (IMO 20% is the maximum) which will give you cidery flavors. ************************ Jim writes: >I'm trying to find the "legitimate" definition for the Irish Red Ale >style. I've heard that the style is becomming extinct, not unlike >Porter and I'm interested in any information I can get. > >The history if Killians and the eventual sell out to Coors is interesting >but I don't think I have the whole story for that either. Personally, I don't think Irish Red is a real style -- I think it's a recently created idea -- a product of the marketing director of a large industrial mega-brewer. Perhaps I'm wrong, but yesterday I heard a radio ad for Killian's Irish Red Lager, in which "lager" was mentioned prominently at least 20 times. To create something resembling Killian's, I suggest brewing a lightly- hopped (perhaps 15-20 IBU) pale ale but add 1 ounce of Roasted Unmalted Barley, just for color. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 15:43:03 CST From: gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell) Subject: Birmingham Brewing Tour (Part I) Jeff Herring and I toured Birmingham Brewing on Monday, February 15th. I had not been in there since they got any of their equipment and, boy, what a difference - stainless steel everywhere! A little history first: At the turn of the century, Birmingham was an industrial oasis in the rural South. The laborers who worked in its mines and factories came from surrounding farmlands, from the industrial North, as well as every country of Europe. And with them, they brought their taste for beer. In 1889, The Birmingham Brewery was founded to help satisfy their thirsty demands. This modest brewery was equipped to produce 18,000 barrels of lager beer annually. By 1905, the brewery's annual output increased to 40,000 barrels. The brewery closed its doors in 1908, the victim countrywide prohibition. Its barrels were smashed and their contents gently flowed through the streets of Birmingham, to the horror of thirsty onlookers. Not until last year had beer been commercially brewed anywhere in Alabama since. That has changed with the opening of The Birmingham Brewing Company and its production of Red Mountain Beers. Their product line consists of 4 brews; a red ale (my personal favorite), a golden ale, a gold lager, and (seasonally) a wheat beer. The wheat will be brewed again this spring for the summer season. Jeff and I arrived at 2:00 and opened the sliding door around back on the loading dock. The wonderful aroma of fresh beer immediately wafted over and welcomed us. John Zanteson, Brewmaster, was expecting us and walked over to greet us. I asked if he minded my taking notes and pictures and he said "no" so we quickly retrieved our cameras. John started out, surprisingly enough, as a homebrewer. He developed a desire to brew on a commercial scale and took a job in a brewery pushing a broom. From there he "learned every job in the place". That is reflected in his philosophy about aspiring brewmasters. He says that if you are not willing to start with the "menial" jobs in a brewery to learn the trade, you don't have what it takes to become a commercial brewer. John started brewing commercially in 1988 at the Mendocino Brewpub in Hopland, California. He then went to Dixie brewing in Louisiana before coming to Birmingham Brewing. I mentioned the "Norm" character that Richard Steuven met at Mendocino (who claimed to have been there every day since it opened) and John immediately said that he knew him. He said that he was a thin, older man in a pith helmet. He said that he could believe that old Norm had indeed been there every day since opening. More to come... - -- Guy McConnell gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com "All I need is a pint a day" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 13:26:59 PST From: TAN1%SysEng%DCPP at cts27.cs.pge.com Subject: Re: wyeast 2308 and other stuff Chuck, I can tell you a few things about the "Brewer's Workshop" as I am the author of the program. It was designed to help craft recipes to a particular style of beer, of which there are 33 included in the program. They cover most varieties of ales and lagers, but not specialty beers. As ingredients are added their contribution to specific gravity, color and bitterness are displayed in a style definition area, which also has target values for each of these parameters for the style selected. This way it is extremely easy to see if you are going to end up with a bitter or a pale ale (for example). There are of course many nice features associated with the program, but for a full run down please send for the brochure. Its on the house and doesn't use up valuable thread space, just write to TKO Software, 423 Greenwood Drive, Arroyo Grande, CA 93420. Tom Nelson Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 93 14:13:44 EST From: mmlai!lucy!gildner at uunet.UU.NET (Michael Gildner) Subject: root beer Hello, I have a couple of root beer type of questions. I brought some of that root beer extract this weekend and made two six pack of the stuff according to the directions. I used corn sugar instead of granulated sugar as a sweetener. I was wondering how that might change the taste since it didn't seem as syrupy as store brought root beer. Also, I added dry yeast to get carbornation after bottling. Will this produce an alcoholic root beer? My kids will be bummed if Dad is the only one who gets to drink it. Mike Gildner gildner at mml.mmc.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1079, 02/17/93