HOMEBREW Digest #1099 Wed 17 March 1993

Digest #1098 Digest #1100

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Stuck fermentation? (Colin R Kelly-1)
  Cara-pils haze ("O! Gerek, I'm Mike Rego")
  Help: Teflon a problem? (Steve Agard)
  Malt Mill (thutt)
  BrewPubs in Europe (Marc de Jonge)
  Favorite Brew (ANDREW GRANT)
  Fraternity House Ale (STROUD)
  Succanat (tm) (STROUD)
  a beer drinking UK visitor gives thanks (BadAssAstronomer)
  too much time (Russ Gelinas)
  Caustic Remarks (Jeff Frane)
  Copper lautering manifold, Part 1 (Jeff Benjamin)
  Copper lautering manifold, Part 2 (Jeff Benjamin)
  SNPA culture beginner questions (Birkeland Joel RYYF20)
  Re: pumps (Sherman Gregory)
  Lye, Vierka yeast (The Ice-9-man Cometh)
  Re: Where did my Saaz nose go? (korz)
  San Francisco brew pubs ("Steve Kurka")
  Lauter Tun (Jack Schmidling)
  weisse bier and decoction (CHUCKM)
  Baseball/Beer Request (Bill Ridgely FTS 402-1521)
  Sugar and Out of work Cold Warriors.... (7226 Lacroix)
  Brewers in Portland, Oregon? (Jack St.Clair at fmccm6)
  yeast culturing (Leo Woessner)
  Moderate drinking & minimal cold catching (Jacob Galley)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1993 16:16:35 -0600 (CST) From: Colin R Kelly-1 <kell0170 at student.tc.umn.edu> Subject: Re: Stuck fermentation? Hi, all, I have a question about a batch I'm brewing at the moment. I think the fermentation is stuck, but I'd like some input from the rest of you out there. I'm making an American Pale Ale using Wyeast #1056. I broke the inner seal of the yeast package, last Tuesday night, intending to brew on Thursday. By mid-Wednesday, the package was ready for use. Thursday afternoon, after the boil, the wort took quite a while to cool. Since I don't have a chiller at this time, I put the bucket outside, surrounded by snow (Minnesota). It still didn't cool very fast, and I was running low on time, so I pitched the yeast at about 83 degrees and placed the vessel in our basement which is about 64 degrees. 24 hours later there was no sign of fermentation, so I brought it upstairs, hoping that a change of temp would get it kick started. After a few hours in a 75 degree room, it started bubbling. It reached a peak of about 2 bubbles per second Saturday afternoon, then fell off to almost nothing. The other batches I've brewed, had a much longer and healthier fermentation than that. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Please send replies to my email address. Thanks. I think I'm going to go get some more yeast, and see if that works. Later, Colin *************************************************************************** Colin Kelly * Cottleston,Cottleston,Cottleston Pie kell0170 at student.tc.umn.edu * A fly can't bird, but a bird can fly __o * Ask me a riddle and I reply, _`\<,_ * "Cottleston,Cottleston,Cottleston Pie." (*)/ (*) * -- Master Pooh *************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1993 18:15 EST From: "O! Gerek, I'm Mike Rego" <MREGO1 at vax.clarku.edu> Subject: Cara-pils haze I've been reading the digest for a few weeks now, and it seems to be very helpful in answering novice questions. So, here is my first posting: My first attempt at a lager was a modified version of Papazian's Crabalocker German Pils, and I brewed it on 2/21/93. The ingredients were 3 kg (6.6 lb) Ireks Munich light unhopped extract, .5 lb Cara-pils malt, 1.5 oz Hallertauer (boiling), .5 oz Saaz (boiling), .5 oz Hallertauer (flavor), .5 oz Saaz (flavor), 1 oz Hallertauer (aroma), and 14 gm European lager yeast (G.W. Kent). The Cara-pils was put in a muslin bag in 1.5 gal water and removed when water began to boil. Then the extract and boiling hops were added. The flavor hops were added at 30 min, and the aroma hops were added for the last 2 min of a 60 min boil. It fermented for 5 days at room temp in plastic primary (it just wouldn't start in the cold 50 degree closet). I guess this makes it a steam beer, right? Anyway, then I moved it back to the cold closet until 3/10/93 (10 days in primary). It was then racked to the glass secondary. At that point it was very cloudy, and disappointingly an amber color. It has been five days now, and the haze has mostly settled. My questions are: Did the Cara-pils cause the haze? (I used it to give it a little more body, but have since learned that it is not like other specialty grains.) I've heard of using gelatin for trapping the haze, is this a good idea, and if so how to do it. And lastly, if I do use gelatin should I be concerned that it would trap all the yeast too? (I do need some yeast in my bottles for carbonation.) Thanks for the help. Mike Rego Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 93 17:27:36 -0600 From: sagard at digi.lonestar.org (Steve Agard) Subject: Help: Teflon a problem? I've followed previous threads about stainless vs aluminum pots, and read papazian's and miller's recommendations. I've used a 5 gal SS brewpot ($24.95) up til now. The problem with this size pot is that I can only brew 4-1/4 gal wort. I'd prefer to brew a full batch (for reasons I've read), and when I start doing all-grain batches, I'll need a larger pot. I've found a 6 gal aluminum pot with "Silver Metallic" interior coating. I suppose this is Teflon with a name intended to suggest of Silver Stone. The pot has insulated handles. The lid is see-through, and has 1 small (sneaker shoe-lace eylet) vent in it. It was only $60. My question is this: If anyone has tried brewing in a Teflon or Silver Stone coated brewpot, what were your results? If you haven't tried this, your opinion is still welcome. Thanks in advance, steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 07:39:16 EST From: thutt <thutt at MAIL.CASI.NASA.GOV> Subject: Malt Mill How does one go about getting a Malt Mill? Seems no one around here has them. Is that because it is mail order only? Could someone please provide the necessary information so that I will be able to get a Malt Mill? (address, phone, cost, etc., etc.) Thanks. Taylor Hutt Championing worldwide usage of Oberon-2! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 12:44:10 +0100 From: dejonge at tekserv.geof.ruu.nl (Marc de Jonge) Subject: BrewPubs in Europe In HBD1089 Nir Navot writes: >My brewing partner is going for a three-week tour to Europe. Does anyone here >know of any interesting brewpubs or homebrewer's attractions along the >following route: Amsterdam - Koln - Prague - Budapesht - Viena - Munich. ??? >In the event he would like to buy brewing supplies to bring home with him, do >you know of a place where he could get them, in one of the towns he'll be >visiting? Amsterdam: Brouwerij 't IJ: (Haven't got the adress but the Tourist Office might know) microbrewery, I think they still give tours Rob van Gelder : (Utrechtsestraat 3##?) reasonable quality brewing supplies British,Dutch,Belgian malts German,British and Bohemian hops (mostly leaf) (and an interesting collection of pot-stills, chillers, and fractioning columns.....) Countless bars and cafes that have over five special beers on tap, mainly belgian mega-swill like Hoegaarden,de Koninck,Leffe etc.:) There used to be a place called 'Gollem' which had over 200 beers, I haven't been there in years. Brewpubs are not very common: It's hard to beat the imported prices. Marc de Jonge dejonge at geof.ruu.nl Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 9:28:15 -0400 (AST) From: AGRANT at mta.ca (ANDREW GRANT) Subject: Favorite Brew I'd like to ask anyone of you out there, if you have a fovorite brew ! I would hope you do, but does anyone have one that is very easy to mix together. This isn't the first time i've brewed, but i've only used the cans of malt and corn sugar, so i'm looking for something a little different. Thanks, - --Andrew Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Mar 1993 08:35:45 -0500 (EST) From: STROUD%GAIA at leia.polaroid.com Subject: Fraternity House Ale Dan Hall sez: >I think the heavy hops is exactly the problem. I considered brewing this beer >last fall, but, beforehand, I went through the math to determine the bittering >levels, using Jackie Rager's wonderful equation from the Zymurgy special issue >on hops. I recall ending up with something like 110 I.B.U. for Ron Page's >Fraternity House Ale. That's not beer - that's beer-flavored bitterness! Ah, I didn't know that the recipe is Ron Page's, but that certainly explains it. Ron is a great brewer from New England, but he has also admitted that he likes to keep his recipes secret and rarely puts down the exact recipe formulation on an entry form. This recipe is clearly one of those cases where he fudged the numbers on the hop bill. It also points out the need to analyze a recipe and see whether it is reasonable before you brew it. The AHA definitely should have done that to all of the recipes in the 'Winner's Circle' before they published it. Beginning brewers don't need nasty surprises like Ron's FH Ale. Steve Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Mar 1993 08:57:47 -0500 (EST) From: STROUD%GAIA at leia.polaroid.com Subject: Succanat (tm) Well, since Dan Hall let the cat out of the bag: I've been using Succanat (tm) for the last few years. It's a great (even better) substitute for demerara or turbinado sugar in brewing. It is organic, unpurified, evaporated cane juice with no additives. It looks like a brown, powdery/crystalline solid, similar to dark dry malt extract though less homogeneous in appearance. According to the info on boxes of the stuff, it has a nutritional make-up very close to malt extract with similar calorie, fat, and protein counts. It is also chock full of trace minerals and vitamins, unlike any processed sugar. Expensive perhaps??? Nahhh, at the Bread and Circus (in Central Sq., Cambridge, MA) it is in the bulk bins for $1.49/lb. I've also seen it on shelves of local health food stores. I've successfully used it many times in British-style ales - bitters, pale ales, scotch ales - and the yeasties love it. As Dan surmised, it does seem to have a toffee-ish, caramel flavor. I'm not sure that I'd use it in a tripel (I'd go for straight corn sugar to keep the color down) but a dubbel might do well from its addition. Give it a go. Steve Stroud Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 8:17:20 -0600 (CST) From: STOREY at fender.msfc.nasa.gov (BadAssAstronomer) Subject: a beer drinking UK visitor gives thanks Hi all Just a short note to thank all those who sent me information on pubs and places to see whilest in England and Wales. With any luck, I'll have some stories to tell when I get back. See ya in a coupla weeks. scott Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 9:43:54 -0500 (EST) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: too much time <Jack's description of drying/weighing spent grains etc.> > I am not sure just what this proves other than the fact that the [????] ;-) > process works as well as any other far more complicated methods of mashing > and sparging. What it proves is that you've got too much spare time! I can't even find the time to keg a finished batch.... Russ G. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 08:41:04 -0800 (PST) From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Caustic Remarks arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) > > > 4) How long to recirculate using a Zapat tun. > > Until it runs clear. When you get around to building an easymasher, it will > take about one cup, sometimes two. > Well, without getting into an argument here, my experience with a camp-cooler mash tun, using British malts, is that I get a clear runoff in about the same volume. There is occasionally a little flour in the first pint or so but from then on it's clear sailing. > >From: korz at iepubj.att.com > >I've heard that Draino has other stuff in it besides Sodium Hydroxide or > Potassium Hydroxide. I've heard that Red Devil brand Lye is all NaOH or > KOH (I don't recall which). Check the label and use the pure stuff. > > Good advice. I was only making a point of reference. I use only lye. BTW, > I got so excited about the stuff that I tried a number of things over the > weekend. > Once again, without trying to start a fight, I would say that using lye requires more than a little caution. It's not that the stuff doesn't clean, just that it can also do a number on soft parts of the human body - -- like eyes. If you observe careful brewers in micro- and macro-breweries, I think you'll find them using highly caustic compounds only in closed systems; when they're used for cleaning small parts, etc., they are handled with a great deal of caution, using rubber gloves (and hopefully safety glasses). Personally, I'm a little absent minded (must be the aluminum), and I prefer to use cleaners that take a little longer but aren't likely to melt my eyeballs. > > I have developed the habit of bottling a sixer of each batch I make just to > check on shelf life. Although there has been no infection thus far, we have > noted a significant drop in the flavor quality of the beer. We opened a four > month old bottle last week and both agreed it "tastes like extract beer". > That is not snobbery, just part of our lingo here, reminiscent of the bad old > days. Most of them also seem to lack much ability to retain a head and > seemed lacking in carbonation. This is all beer bottled since I started c/p > bottling. Beer drunk within a few weeks of bottling is as good as draft but > it seems to lose a lot over time. > > The good news is I have to dicipline myself to save it that long and the bad > news is if you want it to keep forever, you will have to make BUD. > I think the reality is that beers that are bottle-conditioned last -- well, not forever -- but far longer than cp-filled bottles that haven't been filtered and stabilized to death. Of course, those of us in the Great NW are known to hop our beers to a point of petrification, so that's probably a factor. Then again, it's definitely not Bud. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 10:12:42 MST From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Copper lautering manifold, Part 1 I've had enough requests for instructions for my sparge manifold that I decided I'll go ahead and post them. The article will be split into two parts so the digest daemons won't reject it due to length. The manifold is made up of 1/2" copper tubing, along with tees, endcaps, and elbow fittings. It looks sort of like a tree branch; a main stem with arms coming off of it, alternating left and right. One end of the stem is capped, the other end leads to an elbow that angles up 90 degrees to a standpipe. Here's an ASCII pic I hope will make it clear: _ end cap | tee +---------] cap | [--------+ | +---------] | [--------+ | elbow \ 90 deg up --------------->========== standpipe siphon hose (this would be coming out of the screen) The length of the stem and the length and number of arms can be adjusted to fit whatever kettle or cooler you use. The manifold should fit exactly in the the bottom of the vessel when you're done. The arms of the manifold each have a number of slots cut in them, spaced a couple of centimeters apart, not quite halfway through the tube (I used a hacksaw to make them). You can also use a hacksaw to cut all the other pieces of tubing, but buying a $5 tubing cutter will make life a lot easier. The tees, caps, and elbow fitting will already fit very neatly, so you don't even have to solder anything together. When assembled, the slots will face down to the bottom of the vessel. This is to keep the grain from clogging them, and so you don't leave a half inch of wort in the bottom. The standpipe should come up the side of the vessel to just below the rim, so you can put the lid on. You will need to come up with some way to connect your siphon hose the the 1/2 inch standpipe. We found a 1/2" to 3/8" ID reducer fitting and a short piece of 3/8" OD tubing will connect nicely to a standard vinyl siphon hose: -----=== | \__ 3/8" _______ 1/2 inch copper |redu |------|siphon hose | cer_|------|______ | / -----=== Also, the reducer and 3/8" OD copper need to be soldered so they don't suck in air, since they're the only fittings that sit above the liquid level. [Note: soldering copper is easy; it requires a few cents worth of plumbing-safe solder and flux and a $15 propane torch. Ask the friendly folks at your local hardware store.] (to be continued...) - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 10:14:25 MST From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Copper lautering manifold, Part 2 (...continued) As you might have guessed by now, you don't need a drain hole in your vessel at all; just have the standpipe up the side of the kettle and siphon from there. You could somehow attach the manifold to a drain, but I don't think it's worth the trouble. The manifold rests right on the bottom of the vessel, and my "spigot" is simply a hose clamp at the end of the siphon hose. Buy one of the plastic hose clamps that has variable click-stops. Clean the manifold with hot water. Since it isn't soldered, you can just disassemble it when your done. You can clean it with a small bottle brush if you like, and if you're worried, you can soak the pieces in a metal-safe sanitizer like ChemPro. Whatever you do, *don't* try to clean it with bleach. Bleach and copper don't get along very well. And clean the manifold thoroughly with soap and hot water before using it for the first time to remove oils and such used while manufacturing the tubing. Here's how the thing works: assemble the manifold and place it in the vessel, slots down. Add your mash water and grain on top of it. When the mash is done, attach the siphon hose to the standpipe and start the siphon going into another vessel. As the level of the mash water drops, add your sparge water so the water level stays an inch or two above the grain bed. When you run out of sparge water, or decide to stop adding water, let the siphon run until all the water has been siphoned out. You'll be amazed, this system gets almost every single drop! This manifold system has a number of advantages: 1. No need to modify your pot/cooler, so it can still be used for other things. 2. You don't have to transfer the mash to another container 3. No transfer means your grain bed won't get compacted, so your sparge won't stick. 4. No transfer means your grain bed won't drop in temperature. 5. You're using the suction of a siphon, not just gravity, to draw off the liquid. This also lessens the chance of a stuck sparge. 6. The wort runs off clear after only a quart or so. Of course, this isn't the only lautering system that has these advantages, but it has worked well for me. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 10:00:04 PST From: Birkeland Joel RYYF20 <ryyf20 at tempeccpb.sps.mot.com> Subject: SNPA culture beginner questions I have a couple of beginner questions on culturing yeast from Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. I have tried culturing SNPA yeast using the following procedure: 1) Prepare an SG 1.040 highly hopped wort, strain out hops, and reurn to boil for another 15 minutes in covered pan. 2) Carefully sterilize a pyrex measuring cup by boiling for 30 minutes. Cover with Al foil which has been flamed. Cool wort by placing covered pan in ice cubes. 3) Open SNPA, pour out almost all beer, sterilize bottle top using alcohol and flame. Pour cool wort into SNPA bottle, add airlock, wait. 4) After 1 day, contents of SNPA bottle at high krausen. Step culture into Erlenmeyer using similar paranoid sterilization procedures. 5) After 1 more day, culture in Erlenmeyer at high krausen, looks good. At this point everything seems OK, but when I went to pitch, I smelled the starter, and it smelled vaguely of bubblegum, which I have been told is a sign of possible contamination. Lacking an alternative, I pitched it anyway. I would apreciate any comments on the above procedure, especially if accompanied by alternatives which are known to work. I have used liquid cultures before, with success, by the way. Also, provided I can get the procedure to work, I would like to know if anyone uses cultures from SN Porter or Stout. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere. Thanks a lot for all your help. Joel Birkeland birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 09:33:05 -0800 From: sherman at qualcomm.com (Sherman Gregory) Subject: Re: pumps > I am using the pump from the kitchen sink of my motor home so it is 12 VDC > and makes it pretty easy. However, I assume a standard light dimmer would > work on most small AC pumps and would be even more flexible. A light dimmer is not the right thing, they modulate the duty cycle rather than control tha voltage. There are motor speed controls that are made for bathroom fans and such that are much like the dimmers, but should work better. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 11:45:30 -0600 (CST) From: SMITH at EPVAX.MSFC.NASA.GOV (The Ice-9-man Cometh) Subject: Lye, Vierka yeast greetings. About lye: I discovered last weekend that lye is the principal ingredient in the rubber-gloves species of oven cleaners, so Jack's experience with shining up everything in sight doesn't surprise me. Personally I am of the opinion that violent chemicals have no place in food prep, so I don't use 'em, but to each their own.... About Vierka yeast: Has anyone used this stuff before? I used one of their wine varieties for a mead last weekend, and it still ain't bubblin'. The weird part was, instead of the little yellow globs I'm used to in dry yeast packets, there were what looked like dried herbs in the package. I assumed they were the equivalent of Budweiser's beechwood chips, i.e. flocculation assisters coated with yeast, but then they could have been dried leaves sold as yeast, too.... Is this normal, and does it require special treatment? thanx | James W. Smith, NASA MSFC EP-53 | SMITH at epvax.msfc.nasa.gov | | "Unstable condition: a symptom of life" --Neil Peart of RUSH | | Neither NASA nor (!James) is responsible for what I say. Mea culpa. | Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 11:45 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Re: Where did my Saaz nose go? Tim writes: >When I bottled this batch of Alt Bier last week, it had a wonderful >Saaz nose to it, from dryhopping in the secondary. Now, a week later, >it's carbonated, ready to drink, and has no Saaz aroma at all... A year or so ago, I heard of the results of a test that was done by several brewers from Chicago Beer Society, in which they bottled part of a batch with Zapata Smartcaps (now called PureSeal) and part with regular caps. A blind tasting by experienced BJCP judges resulted in the following determination: the hop nose of the PureSeal bottles was much fresher and prominent. For those unfamiliar with PureSeal (aka Smartcaps), they are made with an oxygen-scavenging plastic which also is an oxygen barrier for up to (I believe) 6 months. It appears as if the first thing that oxygen reacts with and ruins is the hop nose. Tim: Could the loss of the Saaz nose be due to air in the headspace? Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 12:51:29 GMT From: POIRIER at IREQ-CCFM.HYDRO.QC.CA Subject: Plastic boiler info Hi all, Well I was inundated with requests for more information on my plastic boiler setup, so I'll just post the basics here: I took an old plastic primary, 6.5 Imperial gallons, originally from my local homebrew supply shop, now well past retirement age. I drilled a hole for the spigot (a used plastic drum tap) about 1 inch from the bottom, and for the two heating elements, I drilled holes 90 degrees CW and CCW from the spigot, about 2 and 3 inches up. The elements are "1 kW, 115 VAC. Chrome plated copper heating element. Features automatic shutoff when not immersed in water. Complete with mounting nut and gaskets. Designed for through wall installation in a 1-9/16" dia. hole (3/16" thick approx.). Electrical connection via recessed 3-wire socket; supplied with mating 3-wire stub cord, 12" long; opposite end stripped. Size 4-3/4" long x 3-1/2" wide. New. Wt, 1 lb. Order No. TM89HVC5702...$4.50 US." H & R Company, 18 Canal Street, P.O. Box 122, Bristol, PA 19007-0122. Sales 1-800-848-8001 Fax 215-788-9577 Business Office 215-788-5583. Things to keep in mind: - The gaskets suck. I made my own with the stuff you buy in sheets at the hardware store. And the gasket that came with my drum tap turned to mush. - You'll have to put your own plug on. The nice thing about the electrical connector through thw bucket wall is that you just unplug the element when you're manipulating the bucket, so there are no cords in your way. - It takes the 2 elements to get a good boil going, but only one to keep things humming nicely. I plug one in the outlet on my stove, and one in a countertop outlet. - So far no leaks or problems. My local homebrew shop is now trying them, with good success, and in fact plans to sell them to customers (gee, maybe I could ask for a commission....Maybe some 2-row....). It's true that the plastic is not rated for these temperatures, but I've been told that neither is the electrim bin. - No scorching so far. The elements get coated in hot break material that needs to be cleaned off, but that's it. I only picked plastic because it was easy. I'll stick with it as long as it works. When I get around to it, though, I have a 12 gallon SS Labatt's keg that I got at a scrapyard for 25 bucks (about 1.50 US...), which I'll fit with the elements. If anyone has any questions or suggestions, please let me know. Deb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 10:47:25 MST From: "Steve Kurka" <kurka at bmcw.com> Subject: San Francisco brew pubs Does anyone have suggestions regarding brewpubs in San Francicso? I'll be there this coming weekend (3/20/93). Please email to (kurka at bmcw.com) Thanks Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 12:33 CST From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Lauter Tun >From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023 at NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA> >Subject: My Lauter Tun Congratulations of proving that you have a world class mind, capable of re-inventing the easymasher. Just a few suggestions that you may find useful. If you use soft copper tubing instead of pipe, you can put a double bend in in so that the screen sits right on the bottom. | spigot ----|-----\ ----|----\ \ | \ \ | \ \ ----------- screen | \------------- ------------------------------bottom_ Upon reading it again, that is the only suggestion I can offer. You will get mountains of mail wailing about your use of window screen but I used it for months and it works just fine. Aside from the simplicity, the advantages of this system are as follows: The wort will run clear almost immediately and re-circulating gallons of turbid runoff becomes other people's problems. This leads to the other advantage... You can thoroughly stir the mash several times during the sparge without disturbing the "filter bed" because it re-establishes itself so easily. You thereby know for certain that you are getting maximum rinsing of the grain by the sparge water. Contrary to popular opinion, the potential for extract efficiency with this system is greater than in any other, as of result of this feature. >I hope this ascii drawing shows what I was trying to explain. Thanks for the stimulus. I have been too lazy to make one but as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. So here is what I came up with... BRASS SPIGOT FEMALE | CONNECTOR | | ________ | | \_____ \ | | | | | ____ ________|_|___****____|_____ COPPER TUBING / _______X____ ____ ____ \ / / / ****____| \ \ / SS SCREEN /_/ | \ \ | | \ \----################## | \-----################## -----BOTTOM------------------------------ >From: atl at kpc.com >Subject: Reduction of Wort volume during boiling > After sparging, I usually end up with 6-8 gallons of sweet wort. I usually boil for 90 minutes total... end up with about 4 gallons of bitter wort... First of all, there is a big difference between 6 and 8. If it is 6, ending up with 4 after 90 min is just about right. Frankly, I do not think there is such a thing as too vigorous a boil. If you lose too much wort, just start with more. I would figure on about a gallon per hour of boil. Under no circumstances, do you want to cover the kettle. Part of the reason for boiling is to concentrate the wort. js Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Mar 93 13:49:13 EST From: CHUCKM at PBN73.Prime.COM Subject: weisse bier and decoction Hello all, Thanks to those who responded to my questions regarding Weisse Bier. Anyway, This weekend I brewed a 1/2 batch (2.5 gal) using a single decoction process (my first time). My recipe for this was 3 lb german wheat 1.5 american 6 row 1/2 oz hallertau pellets wyeast bavarian weisse (3056 I believe) I saved about 1.25 quarts of wort for kreusen. I mashed in with 1 quart/pound of water. My first question is: when I pull my decoction for separate heating and boiling it is not very liquid, and indeed, during boiling it gets pastey(starts sticking to bottom). Should I have added more water during this phase so it is not so dry? Also, re: lautering and extraction effeciency.... is there a relationship between duration of lauter and extraction rate. My lauter for this exercise was fairly quick (10 min) and I ended with a 1.038 wort. It is currently fermenting nicely and doing fine. Chuckm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 13:10:00 EST From: Bill Ridgely FTS 402-1521 <RIDGELY at A1.CBER.FDA.GOV> Subject: Baseball/Beer Request I'll keep this short so as not to take up too much bandwidth on a not-specifically-homebrew-related subject. The editors of BarleyCorn, the Mid-Atlantic Region Brewspaper, are writing a special report on the beer scene at minor league ballparks, and they have asked me to kindly poll the readership on the subject. If anyone out there has stories or anecdotes about beer- enlightened minor league club owners or stadium operators, ballplayers with an affinity for good beer (or homebrew), whatever - please submit by private e-mail. Even names of individuals who might provide further info would be helpful. This report will be nationwide in scope, so please don't limit responses to the east coast. Thanks in advance for your help. Bill Ridgely E-mail: ridgely at cber.cber.fda.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 07:53:13 MST From: stevel at chs.com (7226 Lacroix) Subject: Sugar and Out of work Cold Warriors.... Following the thread on sugars recently, I have been a little surprised to see no mention of Yellow D sugar...Purchased in my local upscale (read over- priced) market the label claims differences between it and Turbinado, etc. I'll bring the label to work to leave more info for you folks who might be interested. As for the gentleman using the Navy's computer to access the HBD and then post out of context quotes from YOUR commander in chief...you've obviously shown us yet another abuse of tax dollars.....thanks...and the down side of the end of the Cold War.....is worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Steve Lacroix Primitive Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 14:16:09 PST From: Jack St.Clair at fmccm6 <Jack_St.Clair_at_fmccm6 at ccm.hf.intel.com> Subject: Brewers in Portland, Oregon? Hi fellow brewers, There is a possibility that I will be transferred to the Portland area sometime this summer. Can anyone out there tell me about the Homebrew situation in the area? Brewpubs? Supply shops? Homebrew Clubs? I will probably be living in the Hillsboro area and would really like to meet some new brewers. To help keep the bandwidth narrow, please respond via private mail. Especially, if you are a homebrewer at Intel. Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jack Folsom, California jack_st.clair_at_fmccm5 at ccm.hf.intel.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 93 17:30:14 EST From: woessner at psych.purdue.edu (Leo Woessner) Subject: yeast culturing I am trying culture the yeast from several bottles of SNPA. I boiled up three cups of water with six tablespoons of DME and cooled the mixture. I then poored the wort into a steril half-gallon jug. I then poored all but the last inch of the SNPA out of five bottles. I shook the remaning inch of SNPA in order to get the yeast in solution and poored the dregs into the half-gallon jug. Nothing happened for 2 1/2 days, the brew never fermented very fast. At the peek it fermented at maybe 1 bouble per 30s. Is this slow fermentation normal?? By THe Way (BTW) I did vigorously shake the wort to ariate the wort before adding adding the SNPA yeast. How do you culture yeast from a bottle? Should I assume it is OK?? How can I tell if it is infected?? Is the yeast OK? Thanks in advance Leo Woessner Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 93 0:04:10 CST From: Jacob Galley <gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Moderate drinking & minimal cold catching While we're on the topic of alcohol and health again, I saw an interesting but superficial tidbit on CNN Streamline News a couple nights ago. According to CNN, "a group of British researchers" has released a study showing that moderate drinkers have "a much lower chance" of catching a cold than folks who drink rarely or never. This is all the info that was given. I'd like some more details, but haven't seen anything in the _NY Times_ or the _Wall St. Journal_ since then. Does anyone know more? Cheers, Jake. "What's so interdisciplinary about studying lower levels of thought process?" <-- Jacob Galley / gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu (more obnoxious quotes in my .plan) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1099, 03/17/93