FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Cleaining stainless steel (Rick Garvin)
  Re: New Orleans brewpubs? (David Adams)
  Re: Ferment too quick?!? (Jim Beauvais - CONTRACTOR HRIS)
  Ferment too quick?!? (Paul_Szabady)
  European Bud rights... (Kurt Swanson)
  European Bud... (Kurt Swanson)
  Beer Festival Info ("Tom Stolfi")
  litmus papers, Cambridge (MA, USA) water (Patrick Sobalvarro)
  Dubbel,Steam (Russ Gelinas)
  Zentner, cheese (Geoff Cooper)
  Budlight, Sam Adams and church (chris campanelli)
  AHA National Conference In Portland (fjdobner)
  Czech Bud? (shane)
  Aluminum reactivity (arne thormodsen)
  keg party (Leo Woessner)
  Spontaneous Fermentation (Martin A. Lodahl)
  BAA humour (Sandy Cockerham)
  Wheat Beer Recipe (Derrick Pohl)
  AHA Conference in Portland (Rick Garvin)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 93 13:01:55 EDT
From: rgarvin at btg.com (Rick Garvin)
Subject: Cleaining stainless steel


For cleaing my stainless steel boilers I use a non-scratch
bathroom scotch-brite pad like 3M makes. I have found that
a lot of other brands can scratch stainless.

To remove beerstone and other gunk that does not come off
I use standard cheap white vinegar and the same type of
pad. This works quite dramatically even on caramelized
wort.

Cheers, Rick


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Date: Thu, 27 May 93 16:00:14 -0400
From: David Adams <tmc!david at uunet.UU.NET>
Subject: Re: New Orleans brewpubs?

Mary Dabney Wilson  <WILSON at library.uta.edu> asks...
> I will be traveling to New Orleans and want to know if there are  
any
> good brewpubs.  Any recommendations?
> 

The only brewpub I found when I was there last month was the Crescent  
City Brewpub, and I hate to be negative, but I must say I was  
singularly unimpressed.  I only had a weiss beer (actually about a  
half of a weiss beer, I was unable to bring myself to finishing it.)   
A group of 7 friends gathered there, and no one was interested in  
going back.  In all fairness, I had just finished a rather wicked  
hurricane when I got there, so my taste buds (not to mention my  
vision, my sense of balance, or my speech) were not in top form.

One positive recommendation:  drink Abita beer while you are in New  
Orleans, especially Abita Turbo Dog.  And if you get outside of the  
city, try to visit the brewery.  Good people; wonderful beer.

- -- Dave 

=====================================================================
   /vvvvvvv\   David Adams               : 

   \       /   Monitor Company           : 

   -|-     |   Information Engineering   :   This space intentionally
   OO---&) |                             :
   (       |   david at monitor.com -OR-    :         left blank
    |      |      uunet!tmc!david        :
=====================================================================

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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 07:36:16 EDT
From: Jim.Beauvais at East.Sun.COM (Jim Beauvais - CONTRACTOR HRIS)
Subject: Re: Ferment too quick?!?


Paul writes;


Date: Wed, 26 May 93 17:15:58 edt
From: Paul_Szabady at DGC.ceo.dg.com
Subject: Ferment too quick?!?

Message:
I was wondering if anyone out there in HBD-land has tried the recipe 
for Armenian Imperial Stout from TNCJOHB.   I just brewed a batch 
using this recipe this past sunday night.  I pitched the yeast (that 
came with the "M&F Old ALe Kit" first thing monday about 6:30am.  By 
about 8pm, I had a nice ferment going.  Tuesday am, I switched from an
overflowing airlock to a hose and pan of water due to an extremely 
vigorous ferment.  Wed at about 1am I switched back to my airlock and 
was pleased with a "once every 15sec glug".  By noon on wed, I seem 
to have practically stopped fermenting.  I've been making homebrew 
for about 6 years now and have never seen a recipe with this amount 
of malt (almost 11 lbs - $33.00 for supplies!!!) finish soooo quick.  
Barely 54hrs.  I'm thinking maybe I should've spent a little more and 
got a better yeast.  Any suggestions/comments????  Should I pitch 
more yeast???   I broke my hydrometer a while ago and haven't 
replaced it yet so I don't have any sg readings.
Email direct or post...TIA ps

_----------------------

Well the first thing i would do is get a new hydrometer, how quick the batch
appears to finish is not accurate enough.  i have seen batches of stout become
extreamly vigorous, comming out the top of the fermemnter then after dropping
about 0.10 to 0.20 in 48 hours to a slow steady drop over a period of up to 
5 days! This of course is somewhat dependent on the yeast used, but before doing
anything but waiting, BUY A NEW HYDROMETER!

jim
IBC,Ltd


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Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 08:39:06 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Kurt Swanson <Kurt.Swanson at dna.lth.se>
Subject: European Bud rights...

Richard Akerboom (akerboom at dartmouth.edu) wrote:
> If Anheuser-Busch were to import US Bud, they would have to change
> the name, as the Czechs have the rights to the name in Europe. At
> least until A-B buys them out, which I hope never happens.

First of all this is not true.  The Czech company does not "own the
rights in Europe."  There is no such thing as a European patent
office.  Rights to trademarks are secured in every country.  And this
being the case, Anheuser-Busch products are widely available in a few
countries here.  In this country, Sweden, one can get US Bud (in all 3
strength classes - the least of which allowing it to be advertised on
tv), Schiltz, Michelob, Sam Adams (arggh!), Anchor Steam, and various
temporary products.  But you can also get the superior Czech Bud...
which happens to be the cheapest class 2 beer (up to 4.5%/vol)... By
the way, the better Czech pilsner (IMHO), Pilsner Urquell (also given
a german name - as if that was a good thing) - is the cheapest class 3
beer sold here (up to 5.6%/vol)...
- -- 
Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Computer Science,
Lunds universitet.  Kurt.Swanson at dna.lth.se

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 10:02:23 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Kurt Swanson <Kurt.Swanson at dna.lth.se>
Subject: European Bud...

[I don't know why my previous post didn't make it, but here's the gist
of what I attempted to say before]

The is NO European trademark office.  Each country has its own, and
thus has the right to decide a difficult question - who has the right
to the name "Budweiser".  Here in Sweden, both products are sold -
with no difference in name.  In other countries US Bud is "Bud."  But
it is certainly not an equivalent situation in all of Europe.  In any
case, I read in a recent issue of CAMRA's "What's Brewing," that AB
and the Czech firm have come to an agreement in terms of marketing, so
that both products would be marketable in all countries...

P.S.  Besides BUD, we in Sweden can buy Schlitz, Michelob, Sam Adams
(arggh!), and Anchor Steam, as well as a few other temporary
products...
- -- 
Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Computer Science,
Lunds universitet.  Kurt.Swanson at dna.lth.se

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Date: 28 May 1993 08:07:08 GMT
From: "Tom Stolfi" <WAUTS at CWEMAIL.ceco.com>
Subject: Beer Festival Info


For those requesting more info on the Southport Beer Festival,
please resend your request and include yourfull email address.
Our REPLY option is not addressing properly.

Tom Stolfi
wauts at cwemail.ceco.com














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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 10:36:30 EDT
From: pgs at ai.mit.edu (Patrick Sobalvarro)
Subject: litmus papers, Cambridge (MA, USA) water

I made my first partial mash last weekend, and ran into a problem.  I
was following the instructions in Miller's "Complete Handbook of Home
Brewing."  My problem was with the litmus papers I found at the local
brewing shop (The Modern Brewer).  I thought that the range was
appropriate (4.6 -- 6.2), but according to the chart and also to my
own results, the variation in color over the range was quite narrow --
tan to a rather light brown.  The result was that I had a very hard
time telling whether my mash pH was in the right range.  So here is my
question:

Does anyone know a retail source of good litmus papers that have a
greater variation in color over this range, or perhaps a range of only
5.0 -- 5.5?  A shop in the greater Boston area or a mail-order house
would be best.  The Cole-Parmer and Edmund Scientific catalogs I have
don't have litmus papers -- only pH meters.

Speaking of pH meters, the cheapest ones do not have detachable
electrodes.  Can someone with experience in these matters tell me how
long I might expect the electrodes on these meters to last if one is
only using them in brewing, where only mildly acidic solutions are
encountered?

Next topic.  Because my local brewing shop didn't have this
information, I thought I would post for interested homebrewers in the
area the assay I got from the Cambridge Water Department.  I didn't
actually get to talk to a chemist, so I wasn't able to get anything
about seasonal variation from them, but this is interesting all the
same.  Miller's book leads me to believe that the number listed as
"Alkalinity" refers to the total amount of both carbonate and
bicarbonate.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------
Source: Cambridge Water Department
        Operations Report (03/23/93)

Comparison of Cambridge Tap w/EPA & State Standards for 1993

Parameter               Finished Water          EPA & State Standards
                          (mg/l)                  (mg/l)
- ---------               --------------          ---------------------
Alkalinity               21                       ---
pH                        8.43                    ---
Dissolved Solids        230                     500
Conductivity            354 umhos/cm at 25C          ---
Turbidity                <0.1 N.T.U.              0.5 N.T.U.
Free Chlorine             0.1                     ---
Total Chlorine            1.0                     ---
Color                    <5 color units          15 color units
Chloride                 58                     250
Nitrate                   0.60                   10
Sulfate                  28                     250

Aluminum                 <0.10                    0.05 -- 2.0
Arsenic                  <0.005                   0.50
Barium                   <0.10                    1.00
Cadmium                  <0.010                   0.01
Calcium                  17                       ---
Chromium                 <0.02                    0.05
Lead                     <0.005                   0.015
Magnesium                 3.2                     ---
Manganese                 0.022                   0.05
Mercury                  <0.0002                 <0.002
Selenium                 <0.010                   0.01
Silica                    3.1                     ---
Silver                   <0.02                    0.50
Sodium                   32                      20
Zinc                      0.024                   5

Total Coliform            0 C.F.U./100ml          0 C.F.U./ml
Standard Plate Count     10 C.F.U./100ml        500 C.F.U./ml

Langlier Saturation (corrosion) Index:  -1.0

Total Trihalomethanes; SWDA TTHM M.C.L.
 The M.C.L. is a Four Quarter Average of 100 ppb

   Current Four Quarters Data Average:    64 ppb
                   1993 (sic) Average:    17 ppb


No other regulated volatile organics, pesticides or herbicides are found.

Sample Collected  Feb. 11, 1993, Payson Park Reservoir
Camp, Dresser & McKee, Inc. Laboratory Services, Mass. Cert. I.D. MA012
- ----------------------------------------------------------------

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Date:    Fri, 28 May 1993 11:05:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: Dubbel,Steam

   A double batch of Belgian Dubbel Ale and Steam (tm) (a trademark that 
deserves one, btw) Beer, fermented at high gravity and diluted at kegging:

     5 lbs. light Munich
     2 lbs. light Vienna
  1.15 lbs. crystal (60L ?)
 10.35 lbs. M&F 2-row
     2 lbs. turbinado sugar

     1 oz. Centennial whole hops (90 minutes boil)
     2 oz. Saaz whole hops (added at end of boil, steeped while chilling)

     2 tsp Irish Moss (15 minutes)

Single-step infusion by mashing in with 20 qts. water at ~170 degrees.  My 
notes have "17" with no 3rd digit, but it's commonly 170-172 degrees. 
Conversion at 156 degrees for 4 hours (probably done much sooner; I was
busy).  Pour mash into 10 gallon cooler lauter-tun.  Top off with boiling
water.  Stir.  Let settle 30 minutes.  Drain, recirculate 2 gallons.
Boil 90 minutes, leaving about 8 gallons at 1.070 (not measured).

Rack ~5 gallons onto slurry from a previous batch of Belgian ale.  The yeast
had been cultured from bottle of Chimay.

Rack the remainder (~3 gallons) into another carboy.  Pitch with Wyeast
California Common (aka Steam) slurry from a previous batch.

Ferment the Belgian at 60-70 degrees.  Yes, that's a wide fluctuation.
I tried to keep it warm by surrounding the carboy with gallons of hot
water.  It works, but eventually the cool cellar temps win out.

Ferment the Steam at 55-58 degrees.

No secondary fermentations.

Keg the Dubbel after 16 days.  Had to add 3/4 gallon of boiled/cooled
water to fill 5 gallon keg.  FG: 1.012 (before adding water).  Fruity,
but no bananas.  Some bubblegum.  More spice/clove.  Did I say fruity?
Very fruity, in a very nice way. Strong, alcoholic, rum flavors/aromas,
maybe from the t.sugar. Dark brown. Stayed cloudy until just recently.  
A unique and delicious beer; I've taken to drinking it from a wine glass.

Keg the steam after 37 days.  Had to add ~ 2 gallons of boiled/cooled
water to fill 5 gallon keg.  FG: 1.014 before adding water.  At the time
it tasted sulpherous with a homeperm(!) aroma.  Something happened as
it carbonated, though, because within a couple of days those off flavors
and aromas were gone, replaced by a Steam beer fruitiness (not at all like
the Belgian though), and a nice Saaz aroma, not noticeable in the Belgian.
A little too light body maybe, but perhaps only in comparison to the
very big body of the Dubbel.  Neither beer is very bitter, 'though the
Steam reveals the bittering hops better.  The Steam is a crystal clear
light brown color.  An excellent summer beer, if I do say so myself.

So, a grand and very successful experiment.  If your brewing time is
limited and seldom, I highly recommend this double batch/high gravity/
dilution brewing approach.

Russ Gelinas
esp/opal
unh

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:15:45 +0000
From: G.A.Cooper at qmw.ac.uk (Geoff Cooper)
Subject: Zentner, cheese

Chip Hitchcock asks in a private email:
>All right, I'll bite. What's a Zentner? Teribu, perhaps?

I was afraid someone would ask that. Well, its a unit for measuring hops in,
isn't it.  Aka a big sack full :-)

I think it's 50Kg of hops (but not absolutely certain).

***************
I said that I recently had a bad experience with beer in Florida, but in fact
with the help of a few HBD contributors, I found a couple of brewpubs that
sold some very pleasant beers. May the brewpub concept prosper and flourish.

And what about American cheese? Is there any chance of a Campaign for Real
Cheese being started over there? I got the impression that the mega-cheeseries
had done the same to your cheese as the mega-breweries have done to your beer.
Plasticy, bland, virtually no variation in flavour or texture. Where did I go
wrong?

I found the good beer in Florida by asking your advice, maybe next time I'm
on your side of the pond I'll ask for advice of sources of cheese too.

Geoff


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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 11:31 CDT
From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli)
Subject: Budlight, Sam Adams and church

 
"A riot is an ugly thing... and it's about damn time we had one."
 
                         -  "Young Frankenstein"
 
 
Phil Seitz's post about infiltrating the evil empire of A-B and
substituting a homebrew for a bud light, possibly changing the
course of history, is a step in the right direction.  Radical
activism is like farting during the church sermon.  Its a
barbarous act in the face of entrenched hypocrisy.
 
Here in Chicago we're currently being bombarded by a wave of
Samuel Adams billboards.  It's not enough that the Chicago
tollway system is the cheapest parking in town.  To add insult to
injury you have to stop in front of one of these billboards. 
Sitting in traffic for a half hour, staring at a monstrous Sam
Adams advertisement?  I still have nightmares.
 
During one of my more recent tollway camp-outs, I tried to avoid
staring at one of these billboards.  I did this by admiring the
architectural design of the billboard structure itself.  I was
amazed with the precision with which the welder had mounted the
ladder rungs.  These rungs marched all the way up the pole with
military precision.  It looked like a step ladder was necessary
for the billboard painters to reach the rungs from the ground.  I
became amused with the idea of donning a ninja suite, climbing
the billboard and painting the word "boycott" in huge black
letters in the foam of the billboard pint.  But alas, the traffic
started to move again, the daydream vanished and common sense
soon returned.
 
Although I consider myself to be a Question Authority type from
way back and a student of the Arf School of Agnosticism (ASA),  I
decided that this was something I wouldn't try.  Not because of
being scared of heights.  Not because of my history of brewing-
related accidents.  The real reason is that I can't tolerate the
I-told-you-so's while stuck in a full-body cast.
 
 
chris campanelli

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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 12:13 CDT
From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com
Subject: AHA National Conference In Portland

All,

For those interested in going to the national conference this year,
I would like to know if there is something special that the HBD crowd
should organize while there? Perhaps it is customary for this group
to identify themselves by a charcateristic identifier (scarlet letter,
black armband..). 

I would like to meet the faces behind the e-mail addresses and I thought
maybe our own activity might be a thought. Many things come to mind
but some possibilities might be:

1. A brewpub night for the HBD crowd.

2. A preconference HBD get together.

3. A postconference HBD get together

4. your proposals here.

I would be happy to help organize something but would like to know if 
there is any interest. No doubt that we will see each other anyway
but some kinship may be just the thing.

If you would like to e-mail me directly and save airtime that would be
fine and I could then just give all responders the dump. 


Frank Dobner

PS: I have my plane tickets, conference registration and hotel arrangements
already made. I am staying at a place up the street and saving a bit of
money

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 11:29 PDT
From: shane <DEICHMAN at perch.nosc.mil>
Subject: Czech Bud?


O.K., I know -- I'm still clueless in California...

  I posted some erroneous info on "Bud in Germany" recently, 
and was promptly corrected by some more astute zymurgophiles.  
However, I deleted the message explaining the Czech Bud -- so 
could whomever is aware of this please resend?

  Spaseeba! :-)

 -shane
<deichman at perch.nosc.mil>


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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 12:18:32 -0700
From: arne thormodsen <arnet at kaibutsu.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Aluminum reactivity

>Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 23:18:49 -0500
>From: donald oconnor <oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
>Subject: bleach and ss
>
>curiously, the cole-
>parmer catalog says that bleach does not react with aluminum.  these
>tables are only guidelines.  no details as the conditions of the test
>such as length of exposure are given.

Aluminum has some pretty unusual properties which are probably relevant
here.  It is unstable in the presence of oxygen, water, acids and bases,
BUT it is normally covered with a layer of oxide which prevents these
corrosives from reaching the actual metal.  If you manage to amalgamate
a bit of mercury with the surface of a bit of aluminum this oxide coat
will not stick.  The piece of aluminum will corrode in air, right before
your eyes (this makes a very impressive demo)

The relevent point is that in a strong oxidizing solution, such as
concentrated bleach, the oxide coat is stablized and the aluminum is not
attacked.  If you dilute the solution too much though, the alkalinity
will overcome the oxidizing strength, and at some point the aluminum
will get attacked (I don't know the figures here).  The same phenomenon
allows concentrated, fuming, nitric acid to be transported in aluminum
containers.  God help you if you get any water in there though!

Personally I wouldn't mess with aluminum for beermaking, because it's
corrosion properties are so tricky.

- --arne (the ex-chemist)

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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 14:31:56 EST
From: woessner at psych.purdue.edu (Leo Woessner)
Subject: keg party

   I want to make a keg of homebrew and have a summer keg party, but I cannot
afford to buy a co2 system.  I can easily get a stainless steel beer keg
since I live in a colledge town.  It will be the type with a ball in the top
  I want to prime the keg to get it carbonated.  
Question #1: How do I prime the keg (amount of sugar, DME etc)
QUESTION #2: How do I get the ball out of the keg?
Question #3: Will the ball seal the keg without preasure behind it?
Question #4: If not haw can I get the ball to seal without a co2 system?


I don not think th ball will seal wihtout preasure behind it, so I have been
thinking of using a magnet to hold the ball in place while the keg is 
conditioning.  Anyone with experience, knowledge, hearsay, guesses, etc..
please  send e-mail.  When I make the keg I will write a summary of
my experience.   

				Thanks in advance

					Leo Woessner

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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 14:27:33 PDT
From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM>
Subject: Spontaneous Fermentation

In HOMEBREW Digest #1150, Richard Childers speculated:

> I am curious ... has anyone ever tried to induce a lambic in the Bay Area,
> or any other area which is known to harbor a particular type of yeast in
> the air ?

We're headed here for an Avernus of terminological confusion.  By
definition, a "Lambic" is Belgian, which is why those of us
experimenting with homebrewing in the style usually call our efforts
by some other name.  And yes, quite a few of us have experimented
with spontaneous fermentation.  In some cases, the results have been
vaguely similar to Lambics, but it would be asking quite a lot to
have enough similarity between the microflora of the Senne valley
and that of, say, Mill Valley to produce a beer that in any way
resembled the "real thing."  The more promising experiments have
been those using cultures of the organisms identified as having the
greatest effect on the Lambic flavor profile.

> Are 'lambic' bacteria distinct from 'lactic' bacteria, and if so, how ?

Yes, they're quite different, for the most part.  Most Lambics
have a Lactobacillus component in their makeup, but it's relatively
small and completely overshadowed in its flavor effects by the
bacterium Pediococcus damnosus (nee P. cerevisiae) and the yeasts
Brettanomyces bruxellensis and B. lambicus.  The balance of these
last two seem to vary depending on how close to Beautiful Downtown
Brussels the brewery is, with B. bruxellensis dominating in town and
B. lambicus dominating in the country.  Main alcoholic fermentation
is carried out by wild S. cerevisiae and S. bayanus, and there's a
wide spectrum of others that get into the act at one time or
another.  A simplified summary can be found in "Lambic", by
Jean-Xavier Guinard, from the Classic Beer Styles series, Brewers'
Publications, 1990.

> The Bay Area, for instance, and California in general, was where sourdough
> was evolved, and I have been given to understand that the cause of sour-
> dough's sourness is lactobacillus acidophilis. So, making an intuitive leap
> here, I have to wonder ... has anyone tried this ?

I haven't tried it in the Bay Area, but I'd guess that while a tray
of wort left out overnight and then fermented without further
incouragement would produce _something_, but I really doubt you'd
recognize it as a Lambic.  One of the reasons I say that is that if
you want a good idea of what a spontaneously-fermented beer made in
a given location will taste like, just consider the smell of
standing water.  In Brussels, puddles and gutters have a sharp,
Lambic-like "tang", instantly recognizable.

= Martin A. Lodahl   			Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst =
= malodah at Pacbell.COM          Sacramento, CA           916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!  8-)   =


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Date: 28 May 1993 18:26:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Sandy Cockerham <COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L at Lilly.com>
Subject: BAA humour

It figures. All along many of us have complained about the beers we were 
getting from Beer Across America. Too light, too many lagers, blah,blah...
This month they sent 2 porters. I found both of them-- Catamount and Boulevard 
to be so roasty/burnt that I don't really enjoy them.
What was it my Mom always said about be careful what you ask for...you may get 
it ?  (Does that make it a momily)?     :)

sandy c

From: COCKERHAM SANDRA L            (MCVAX0::RX31852)

To:   VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE            (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com")

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Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:20:16 -0800
From: pohl at unixg.ubc.ca (Derrick Pohl)
Subject: Wheat Beer Recipe

In HBD #1150, Steve Boxer wrote:

>        I'm geting the ball rolling on my next brew---A Wheat Beer.  I would
>appreciate tips and recipes for a real wheat bear with lots of clove
>aroma and taste.  I would appreciate an all-grain (infusion) recipe.
>What hops should I use (Hallertau)?  Also, I plan to use Bavarian
>Wheat #3056 yeast, what is the correct temp to ferment?  Thanks in
>advance for all of the help.

Here's an all-grain recipe for a lovely wheat ale I brewed last fall which
uses Wyeast's Belgian Ale yeast rather than the Bavarian Wheat, with plenty
of nice clove aftertaste resulting.  It is a light, refreshing beer,
perfect for summer (pretty good for winter, too, which is when I drank it).

                        Belgian Wheat Ale
                        -----------------

For about 23 l:

1 tsp. Gypsum in mash water
6 lb. Pale Malt (British highly modified variety from Baird's)
3 lb. Wheat Malt
1/4 lb. Crystal Malt (light)
2/3 oz. Bramling Hops (boil 50 min.)
1/3 oz. Bramling Hops (boil 10 min.)
1/4 oz. Centennial Hops (boil 1 min., then steep for 15 min.)
Wyeast Belgian Ale yeast

S.G. 1.044

Two-stage mash:  50 deg C. for 30 min., then 66 deg C. for 45 min.

The two-stage mash is because of the wheat malt component.

Fermented at cool room temperature (around 16 deg C.).

That's it.  The light hopping is to let the wheat and yeast flavours shine
through, and they do, very nicely.  Although this is an ale, I found it
tasted best well-chilled.  It also needed a little while (about a month) in
the bottle for the yeast and hop flavours to reach an optimum balance. 
Enjoy!

- -----
Derrick Pohl (pohl at unixg.ubc.ca)
UBC Faculty of Graduate Studies, Vancouver, B.C.


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Date: Fri, 28 May 93 22:34:05 EDT
From: rgarvin at btg.com (Rick Garvin)
Subject: AHA Conference in Portland


The AHA conference is rapidly approaching. I will be making the
trip from Washington, DC. While looking over the materials I was
trying to find the value added by a partial registration vs 
buying tickets to the social events. I get three speakers for
$30. I got the partial anyways.

I will be going out Friday before and checking out the local culture (haha).
Anyone who will be out early also let me know and we can get together.

I am trying to convince John Mallet at Old Dominion Brewing Co to ship
homebrew kegs with his product that will be in the Oregon Brewers Fest.
He has yet to agree. Otherwise, I think I will ship a case of my brew
to the hotel. That way I can hand carry a case too.

Cheers, Rick


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1152, 05/31/93