HOMEBREW Digest #1158 Tue 08 June 1993

Digest #1157 Digest #1159

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  pH adjustment Qs & As (Josh Grosse)
  Airstat (Jack Schmidling)
  Cornelius Keg as fermenter (Riccardo Cristadoro)
  Stuck Run-off (Riccardo Cristadoro)
  AHA Conference in Portland (Rick Garvin)
  What differs in American Beers (thutt)
  "Thick" dry stouts...why? (Paul LaBrie)
  Kegging Alternatives (Hardy M. Cook)
  top cropping??? ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  sparging & manifold design ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  paulaner salvator ideas (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570)
  Re: Homemade cooker (and Easymasher) (Robert Schultz)
  Those Black Beans (Jeff Frane)
  Wheat beer puzzle: 2 layers? ("Westemeier*, Ed")
  Re: Propane Cooker (Bob Konigsberg)
  Phosphoric acid nonsense (Rick Myers)
  Yucky Stovetops (Bob Konigsberg)
  Re: Btus,Burners, hops not growing (Nick Zentena)
  Re: Calcium Chloride Source? (larryba)
  Iodophors (Jim Liddil)
  Have 6 extra tickets for Stoudt's Fest on Saturday (gcw)
  brewpub opens in Michigan ("Daniel F McConnell")
  dry hopping = 100 IBU's ?? (Peter Maxwell)
  Brewpub opens in MI! (fwd) (perreaul)
  Miller Lite and American Lagers (George J Fix)
  cherries (GC-HSI) <rnapholz at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  Iodine test, unpleasant elements (Eric Wade)
  Re: SS Kegs (Kelly Jones)
  Foam with kegging (Darren Evans-Young)
  Curmudgeons ("Stephen Hansen")
  Batch sparging (Norm Pyle)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1993 09:35:02 -0400 (EDT) From: jdg at cyberspace.org (Josh Grosse) Subject: pH adjustment Qs & As In HBD 1156, Jack Schmidling asked for process clarifications on my pH adjustments and measurements: > >1) Adjusting the pH of the mash. (pH 5.0-5.5) > > I presume you mean that you adjust the water to something so that after > adding the malt, the pH is 5.0 to 5.5. I wonder what that something is. Correct. After mashing in, I adjust pH downward with gypsum. The amount I need to get my pH in range varies depending on the malts I use in the mash, so it's recipe dependent. I've yet to need to adjust upward, but, if I did, I'd use calcium carbonate. > My water is 8.1 and drops into that range. I would be interested in knowing > what your numbers are without adjusting. My water supply's pH varies slightly from day to day. They use slaked lime, like many public supplies, but there is some6. sources (ground/river water). Today's reading is 9.54. On my last batch, my notes show unadjusted pH was 5.9. That batch was 100% Hugh Baird Pale Malt. > >2) Adjusting the pH of sparge water. (ph 5.6-5.8) > > Again, my sparge water is 8.1 and after sparging 10 gallons, it only raises > the total pH of the wort a tenth of a point. I adjust to approximately 5.7 using 88% lactic acid. I do this to ensure that I minimize phenols and tannins in my wort. See any Miller book for the how-to's, and see Dr. Fix's book (Principles of Brewing Science) for the whys. > >3) Ensuring I don't oversparge. (ph > 5.5) > > It is just as useful to use a hydrometer. If you stop sparging when the > gravity falls below 1.008, you will not likely have any problems. It will > take tons of a water a few points higher to have any effect on the total > wort. I find the pH meter is easy to use; it's already sitting out, and it is a more accurate indicator of phenol or tannin extraction than specific gravity. - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Josh Grosse jdg at grex.cyberspace.org Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 93 10:40 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Airstat >From: LPD1002%NYSHESCV.bitnet at UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU >I have found the Hunter Airstat as recommended at Builders Square For $28. It only has a low end of 40 Degrees. That was somewhat bothersome since one of the reasons I wanted a fridge was to try lagering. I have been trying to "lager" a batch with Wyeast Bavarian yeast for almost 3 months now at 40F and it still is bubbling at the same rate as when I first transferred it to the secondary. It is my not so humble opinion that 40F is plenty cold enough for lagering. > The other suggestion, a Johnson Controls Portable Thermostat is sold at my locat Homebrew store for $64.95. This price was somewhat bothersome, but I think it's the one for me. It has a wider range (down to 20 degrees) and the owner of the homebrew store says he recommends it over the Hunter because he knows of some people who used Hunters and had their compressors burn out. I made an interesting discovery several days ago that may be a clue to that problem. While bottling some beer, I noted the compressor attempted to go on but shut down after about 2 seconds. After a delay of a few minutes, it cycled again but went off right away. I have noticed this before but it usually stayed on after several cycles but this time it persisted for over thirty minutes and I decided I had a problem. The investigation seemed to point to bad advice from the supplier of the Airstat and users on this forum. The instructions say to turn the freezer to max cold when using the remote controller. When I turned the temp controller on the freezer down (warmer), there was a click near the low end and the compressor went on, stayed on and has not exhibited the problem since. > It seems the Hunter is a little TOO precise and kicks the compressor on when there is any fluctuation in temperature. The freezer I lucked into seems pretty old, so I guess my decision is made. There could be something wrong with the one you are using because the guard band of the Airstat is 3 degrees. When set at 45 for example, it should go on at 47 and off at 44 and mine does exactly that. Considering my above comments, there might also be a problem if it is set to 40F as this is the lower limit. Frankly, I think it is a terrific little gadget for the money and a real testimonial to modern technology. It even gives a record of daily and cumulative usage. >From: Drew Lynch <drew at chronologic.com> >Subject: Re: iodine > The last batch I made, I did the iodine test two ways: 1. I drained a > little out of the spigot at the bottom of my mash/lauter tun (Gott > cooler with copper-pipe manifold). This tested completely starch free > after 20 minutes (the first time I tested it). 2. I pushed the spoon > into the top of the mash and let some fluid run into it. This never > tested clear, even after 1.5 hours. I get the feeling from this and the followup comments that stirring is only casually considered as part of the mashing process and two or 3 hours mashes would lead one to believe that it might even be considered a bad idea. I stir my mash every ten minutes when resting and almost continuously if heating. I get conversion times that agree with the specs for the malt being used. For example, the Belgian Pilsner converts in just a tad over the 5 minutes specified. I take my sample by simply pulling the spoon out and letting whatever is on it drip into the sample dish. Not very scientific but I get consistant results. js Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 93 10:23:18 PDT From: rcristad at weber.ucsd.edu (Riccardo Cristadoro) Subject: Cornelius Keg as fermenter I am interested in using my stainless steel Cornelius Keg as a primary and secondary fermenter. I would appreciate any suggestions from those who have given this a try. STEVE BOXER Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 93 10:30:14 PDT From: rcristad at weber.ucsd.edu (Riccardo Cristadoro) Subject: Stuck Run-off My first wheat beer coincided with my first stuck run-off during the sparge. I used 5 pounds of 2 row klages and 5 pounds of wheat malt. The malt appeared to be crushed correctly. I have used my lauter tun a few times before and didn't have a problem with slow sparges. If anything, the sparges were a little on the fast side. I should also mention that I used a infusion type mash w/o a mash out. Do I need to mash out when I use that much wheat malt? I'm not even sure what could cause a stuck run-off except for too fine of a crush on the grains. I use a Phils style lauter tun. Instead of using the Phill's false bottom, I used the lid of my bucket and drilled hundreds of 1/8" holes. There are a few little gaps between the side of the false bottom and the bucket. Any ideas or suggestions? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 93 23:08:10 EDT From: rgarvin at btg.com (Rick Garvin) Subject: AHA Conference in Portland Here is the list of people that responded to my entry in HBD about the AHA Conference in Portland. If you know of anyone else going who is on the net let me know and I will add them. There is interest in getting together for beers on Monday night. Any suggestions? Maybe a walking tour of brew pubs? Address Name Arrival Hotel rgarvin at btg.com Rick Garvin Friday Marriot fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com Frank Dobner Sunday Riverside tciccate at carina.unm.edu Tom Ciccateri Sunday unknown uunet!atmel.com!.jlrandreman John Landreman unknown unknown Cheers, Rick Rick Garvin rgarvin at btg.com BTG, Inc. Navy Programs Division, Vienna, VA 703-761-6630 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 93 07:49:59 EST From: thutt <thutt at MAIL.CASI.NASA.GOV> Subject: What differs in American Beers We all complain about the lack of variety in American beers, and as I was bemoaning this fact to a friend of mine, an excellent question popped into my head. I recently read (forget where) that A.B. has about 17 different beers, all basically the similar, while many European breweries have the same number, but with a much greater, often seasonal variation. So, the question is, what exactly are the differences between, any two beers made by the same mega-brewery? (eg: Bugwieser -vs- Busch) And, another observation: It seems to me that Miller is the least resistant in trying new styles of beer. Some good (Amber Ale), some marginal (Reserve) and some questionable (Clear). I would surmise that if these work out well for Miller, you can bet your brew kettle that A.B. & Coors will soon begin brewing a larger variety (with real variation) of beers. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 8:25:25 -0400 (EDT) From: P_LABRIE at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Paul LaBrie) Subject: "Thick" dry stouts...why? This past weekend I attended a local homebrew party where I brought along a Cornelius keg of my latest dry stout (a variant on the Line/Miller recipes which I have been consistently happy with). The comment I always seem to receive at these parties, whether I'm pouring my own, or an actual Guinness, is that dry stout is "thick". Do beer- tasters (read "willing amateurs") elsewhere also refer to stouts as "thick" or is this just a local phenomenon?" Note: I'm NOT looking for a diatribe on the tasting abilities of the average American light beer drinker (flame-throwers on stun only). What I am curious about is whether the dark color and strong bitterness of dry stouts actually imparts a feeling of "thickness" to some peoples' minds, even though the body of the beer may be quite thin. "Thick" (to me) implies a comment on texture and body. My stouts (luckily) and their commercial counterparts definitely do NOT have the texture of a syrup or a motor oil so why "thick"? Any taste & aroma physiologists out there? (I'll summarize any private postings). - paul - p_labrie at unhh.unh.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1993 09:04:45 EDT From: hmcook at boe00.minc.umd.edu (Hardy M. Cook) Subject: Kegging Alternatives On page 6 of BREWING TECHNIQUES, there is an ad for a 5 liter Mini Keg System. I am not interested in 5 gallon Cornelius keg systems at this time, but there are occasions, one or twice a year, that I would like to have kegging ability. Does anyone have any experience with this kegging system or advice about kegging alternatives to the 5 gallon Corneilus -- beer balls, batch latches, and so on. Also several months ago, I recall a posting about someone in Riverdale, Maryland, who sold yeast cultures that I have since misplaced. If anyone knows of this person, could you please email me privately with address, telephone number, or other information? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 10:43:40 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: top cropping??? I've got this batch in the fermenter that just won't quit. The yeast has been crawling up-and-out for a week now. Yesterday, I thought it had settled down and switched the blow-off for an airlock, but NO! A few hours later, I took off the airlock and replaced the blow-off. The airlock was half full of "solid" yeast sludge. Seems like, with the proper care, I ought to be able to collect this stuff and reuse it. Does anyone have any hints on doing this in a "sterile" fashion? (I should mention that the blow-off bucket also had about 1/4" of nice looking yeast slurry on the bottom when I switched it out.) One thought that occurs to me is to do a "2-stage" blow off, where the main blow-off tube goes into a sealed, sanitized container with a second blow-off or airlock. I could collect the yeast in this container, and then save it for the next batch. Does this sound like a reasonable scheme? Yours in confusion, =Spencer W. Thomas | Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704 "Genome Informatician" | Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu | 313-764-8065, FAX 313-764-4133 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 11:10:03 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: sparging & manifold design A while back, there was a discussion about copper manifold sparging designs. A few of us had built in a "down pipe" into our design. This is a pipe that rises from the manifold to a point above the top of the mash, and is open at the top. I designed it into mine with two purposes in mind: to easily underlet mash and sparge water (although this could be done through the outflow), and to act as a "suction breaker" in the case that a sparge through a hose to a lower level was to apply too much suction (by siphon effect) and "set" the mash. Others pooh-poohed the need for such a device. Well, the other night, I got to see the suction-breaker effect in action. I was (as previously described) trying to make to batches from one mash, and was, understandably, trying to make it go as fast as possible. So I opened the valve full (3/8 OD pipe/tubing) and let it run. At one point, when I glanced over at it, the tubing was full of bubbles, presumably resulting from air sucked in through the down tube. I quickly throttled back the sparge, and the bubbles disappeared. So at least it worked to let me know I was going to fast, and may have helped prevent over-compaction of the mash. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 10:21:51 -0500 (CDT) From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec 312 329-3570) Subject: paulaner salvator ideas It's a great beer, and so is Spaten Optimator. The premier issue of Brewing Techniques has an article by Darryl Richman where he describes the thinking that went into his first place Bock. The recipe for the beer appeared in Zymurgy. I don't remember the exact amounts, but based on his article and some bocks I've made, I'd suggest lots of Munich malt and some Aromatic malt too. If I remember correctly, Darryl used no pale malt. More generally, you might consider using proportions of the following malts: pale malt Munich malt Aromatic malt U.S cara-pils (dextrin malt) crystal malt The starting gravity for your doppelbock should be 1.076. Hops should be multiple additions of Hallertauer. Yeast should be a good liquid lager yeast such as Wyeast "Bavarian" lager. Doppelbocks do not have to be so dark as traditional bock. Color can be obtained with ample amounts of crystal and Munich malt. Be careful with highly roasted malts. While there is a temptation to use them for color, I don't think a chocolate malt or burnt malt flavor is appropriate in a doppelbock. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1993 09:26:21 -0600 (CST) From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz at usask.ca> Subject: Re: Homemade cooker (and Easymasher) I have been using a Coleman camp stove and I am not overly happy with the results, over an hour to bring 25 litres to boil. However, if I shroud the pot I'm sure that I could lower the time to boil. On the other hand, I think this is fairly heavy duty work for the Coleman stove and I don't want to start repairing it the next time I go camping.... SO, I am putting in place pieces for a cooker. I got a 120 litre water heater from a friend for the cost of removing it from her basement (it is going to cost me a six pak for the friend that helpeed me carry it out). I have ripped it apart keeping in tact the base and burner assembly. I have an old portable barbeque which I have scounged the control/regulator and now have to mount to the base. The last item is to get my welder friend to build a rack strond enough to hold 50 litres of brew while applying 35,000 BTU. Total cost should be 2 six paks of brew. The major obsticle is to determine if I can fire this unit up inside the house? I have used the Coleman stove inside the house (keep the exhaust fans running) with no apparent dangers .. it depends how clean this new unit burns (proper orfice/burner combination). EasyMasher ========== As for the building of trademaked/patented items, I am under the impression that one can build these items for personal use, but you can not sell for profit. Robert.Schultz at usask.ca ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "I'm going off half-cocked? I'm going off half-cocked? ... Well, Mother was right - You can't argue with a shotgun." - Gary Larson ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 09:22:53 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Those Black Beans Someone was asking about Chinese fermented black beans and how to: well, foist of all, they aren't really black beans. Second of all, I'm pretty sure they aren't really "fermented". There's a problem that arises with translations from Chinese, not to mention the Chinese habit of employing picturesque terminology, especially in reference to food. At any rate (and completely void of beer references): if memory serves, FBBs are actually produced from soybeans. They are heavily salted, and usually in conjunction with ginger. And as dear old dad pointed out in reference to "fermented bean curd", protein doesn't "ferment", it putrifies. The bean curd and the "black" beans would probably more accurately referred to as "pickled" or perhaps "salted". The beans are available at any decent Asian grocery (don't buy the stuff in jars at your supermarket --fooey!); the best come in a yellow cardboard tub (can't remember the brand name offhand, could be Pearl River Bridge). As nice as the tub is, the beans will stay moist longer if you transfer them to a tightly closed jar. Use much more than called for in most recipes; they seem to be written for the "American" palate; one of my favorites is beef chow fun made with wide rice noodles, green peppers and LOTS of black beans. Yum. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Jun 1993 10:53:44 U From: "Westemeier*, Ed" <westemeier at pharos-tech.com> Subject: Wheat beer puzzle: 2 layers? One of our local club members reported a puzzling result from his latest batch. Since no one here could positively identify what happened, I thought the collective wisdom of the HBD could at least offer some plausible theories. The situation: A German wheat beer, about 60% wheat, mashed and boiled normally, and pitched with Wyeast wheat yeast. Fermented at 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit to get the most spiciness, and racked to a secondary after 3 days. Fermentation stopped after 10 days, and when he looked at it, it seemed to be in two layers. The top half of the carboy was dark, and the lower half was much lighter. Thinking that it was a case of the yeast simply taking a while to settle out, he peered through the carboy, using a flashlight. No, the top half was definitely much darker, and there was a distinct dividing line in the middle, separating the layers. He then used a racking tube to carefully take samples from each layer. The top (darker) half was considerably lower in gravity than the lower half. Both layers tasted fine, although the alcohol definitely came through in the taste of the darker, upper layer. He bottled the two layers separately, as best he could, and now seems to have two distinctly different wheat beers from the same carboy. Has anyone ever seen this effect before? Can anyone offer an explanation for it? - ------------------------------------------- ++ Ed Westemeier ++ Cincinnati, Ohio ++ ++ E-mail: westemeier at delphi.com ++ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 09:27:31 -0700 From: Bob Konigsberg <bobk at NSD.3Com.COM> Subject: Re: Propane Cooker Posting as a followup to Chris Estes question on putting a propane cooker in his basement. Aside from the burner size comparisons Chris, I would strongly recommend that you also install a really good exhaust fan WITH a hood. Boiling that much wort will release a lot of water vapor into the air, and it may well condense in places you don't want, providing a breeding ground for higher concentrations of strange critters that you don't want in your beer, as well as possibly allowing wood rot to set in in your home's structure. In addition, if the burner is any kind of healthy size at all, depending on its adjustment, you may be risking built up concentrations of Carbon Monoxide (toxic) and Carbon Dioxide (non-toxic, but oxygen displacing). I decided not to brew in my basement for those reasons (too cheap to put in a good exhaust hood I guess :-) ). Good Luck, BobK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 10:33:04 MDT From: Rick Myers <rcm at col.hp.com> Subject: Phosphoric acid nonsense >kegs. Phosphoric acid reacts quite severely with 304 stainless. should Gee - don't let this infomation leak out to soda pop manufacturers! All that phosphoric acid they are putting in their cola syrup is ruining their kegs!!! > Phosphoric Acid (<=40%) No effect on 304 Stainless Steel Ah, so that's why the cola manufacturer's aren't worried about it! Rick "Will drink beer for food" Myers Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 09:43:02 -0700 From: Bob Konigsberg <bobk at NSD.3Com.COM> Subject: Yucky Stovetops The nasty stuff on stove tops falls into two basic categories. 1) A Light film of grease/oil which is left over from other cooking, and gets burned in place by the heat of boiling. CURE: Wash the stove thoroughly BEFORE brewing. 2) Spills that get burned into place. CURE: Clean up spills right away, even if you have to turn off the heat and slide the pot to the side for a bit. They will never get easier to clean up, only more difficult. BobK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 12:00:36 -0400 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: Re: Btus,Burners, hops not growing >Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1993 09:52:48 -0700 (PDT) >Subject: Brewing Techniques & Book Reviews >In addition to Martin Lodahl's comments on whether Brewing Techniques >will review books published by other than the Association of Brewers: >like, f'rinstance? >A major reality: AofB is publishing the bulk of homebrew- or even >micro-brew related books right now. It would be dishonest to avoid them >and would also mean cutting down severely on the book reviews. I wasn't suggesting that they be avoided but that there might be a few books out there that the AHA has decided not to carry that might be of interest. >From: cestes at argos5.DNET.NASA.GOV (Chris Estes) >Subject: Propane Cooker >Hi All... >We're getting ready to move into our new house next month. My brewing >activities have been banished to the basement! That works well, except >that I don't relish the idea of carrying 5 gallons of wort down the >stairs after cooking. Add that to the fact that the new house has an >electric stove and things look grim. No need to carry hot wort. Chilled it and then shipon it down the stairs. I brew either in the garage or outside. After cooling the beer is shiphoned down the stairs using a 1" shiphon hose. Works well and is pretty quick. >I'd like everyone's input on what kind of propane cooker to get. I >only make beer in 5 gallon batches, so I don't need a surplus Saturn V >motor up-ended! What's best? What kind of gas do I use? How much should >I expect to spend? Can I use it in the basement, or do I have to step out- >side on the patio? Will I have to build a stand to hold my brewpot, or >will it come with something sturdy enough? You get the idea; I'm totally >in the dark on these things! The burner I use is only 60,000btus but has no problems with 40-55litress that it boils regularly. Since it designed for large scale home canning it comes with a very sturdy stand. Many people place 40gallon drums on it! I don't know if it's available outside of Toronto. In my understanding all the higher BTU's give you is a faster boil. >From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at brahms.helios.nd.edu> >Subject: The stick I buried won't grow and other stories >A few day ago I posted to r.c.b and received no repsonse. Basically I >buried a Rhizome an inch deep 2 weeks ago and nothing has peeped up yet. >Comments? Is it dead or did I dod something wrong (I planted it >horizontally). Assuming the weathers fine and the rhizome was alive when planted the only thing I can think of is that the you planted it upside down. Brush the dirt off and check for growth. Depending on type some hops are relatively slower growers. My hallertau plants grow and develop much slower then either the nugget or Mt. Hood. Nick - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 11:58:46 -0400 From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Re: Calcium Chloride Source? In HBD# 1157, Darren asks: >Does anyone know a source for food grade calcium chloride? >I'd like to use some for water adjustment. I got my CaCl2 from "All World Scientific Supply" in Lynnwood, WA. They have an 800 number so you can just call 1-800-555-1212 to get it. I think I paid $15/500gm for USP grade. You should be able to look under chemical supplys in the yellow pages and find someone local. If not, then All World does ship. Also, since you are at a university, try your local chem student store or ask around the biology section. Cheers! P.S. a 55 gal drum of USP CaCl2 costs only $.75/lb - quite a mark up for stuffing small bottles and labeling... - -- Larry Barello uunet!polstra!larryba Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 10:09:40 -0700 (MST) From: JLIDDIL at AZCC.Arizona.EDU (Jim Liddil) Subject: Iodophors With all the discussion of iodophors I thought I might post the following info from a tome entitled "Disinfection, Sterilization and Preservation" Ed. by Seymour S. Block 4th ed 1991. Iodophor is acomplex of elemental iodine or triiodide with a carrier that has at least 3 functions. (1)to increase the solublity of iodine (2) to provide a sustained release resevoir of the halogen and (3) to reduce the equilibrium concentration of free molecular iodine. The carriers are netral polymers such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyehter glycols, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylic acid, polyamides, polyoxyalkylenes and polysaccharides. No where does the article mention the use of phosphoric acid as a iodine complexing agent. I have been told by an industry rep that phosphoric acid is added to maintain alow pH (<9) and aid in cleaning. Another important feature of aqueous povidone-iodine solutions is that there exists a maximum concentration of 25.4 mg/L of "free iodine" that arises in a 0.1% solution and can never be exceeded. So more iodine is not better and is in fact wasteful. I suggest this book for anyone who really wants ot know about all the sanitizing techniques used by brewers. Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 13:36 EDT From: gcw at granjon.att.com Subject: Have 6 extra tickets for Stoudt's Fest on Saturday I have 6 extra tickets for the 2PM - 6PM Stoudt's Second Great Eastern Invitational Microbrewery Festival on June 12 (Saturday) in Adamstown, PA. Tickets are $15 and includes "Best of the Wurst Buffet" and a glass to taste all of the fine brews with. Geoff Woods gcw at granjon.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Jun 1993 13:36:01 -0500 From: "Daniel F McConnell" <Daniel.F.McConnell at med.umich.edu> Subject: brewpub opens in Michigan Subject: Time:12:48 PM OFFICE MEMO brewpub opens in Michigan Date:6/7/93 GREAT NEWS FOR THE STATE OF MICHIGAN!!!! Well folks, it's finally happened. Michigan's first brewpub, The Eccentric Cafe, will open its doors at noon, Friday June 11, 1993. Located in downtown Kalamazoo, the brewpub is adjacent to The Kalamazoo Brewing Co. Congratulations and thanks to Larry Bell, president, mover and shaker. Larry brews a fairly long and interesting, some would say eccentric line of brews that range from the refreshing (Bell's Beer) to the massive (Explorer Stout). I don't have a clue as far as which brews will be offered in the pub. Some of us will be traveling from Ann Arbor to Chicago this Friday for the national competition. Hummmmm isn't Kalamazoo on the way? The usual report will follow.... DanMcC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 11:17:43 -0800 (PDT) From: Peter Maxwell <peterm at aoraki.dtc.hp.com> Subject: dry hopping = 100 IBU's ?? Summary: Hop pellet residue that got into my bottles seems to be making the beer progressively more bitter and undrinkable. My first try at dry hopping resulted in some suspended pellet material getting into the bottles. At first the beer was delicious, with a lovely fresh hop aroma but 6 weeks later the beer is becoming undrinkable. Is this likely to be due to continued extraction of bitterness? I am under the impression that hops must be boiled to extract bitterness. Is an infection likely? There's no unpleasant taste, just this very bitter characteristic. Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 14:42:16 EDT From: perreaul at egr.msu.edu Subject: Brewpub opens in MI! (fwd) > > Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 13:53:50 EDT > > Subject: Brewpub opens in MI! > > > > In case you've been wondering about the deafening silence on the > > "Michigan Brewers" e-mail list, it's my fault. For reasons best left > > unexplained, the error messages that should have been coming to my > > mailbox were going to another, so I didn't see them until just > > recently. Hopefully, it will work this time. Now, to the business at > > hand: > > > > > > Subject: Time:12:48 PM > > OFFICE MEMO brewpub opens in Michigan Date:6/7/93 > > GREAT NEWS FOR THE STATE OF MICHIGAN!!!! > > > > Well folks, it's finally happened. Michigan's first brewpub, The > > Eccentric Cafe, will open its doors at noon, Friday June 11, 1993. > > Located in downtown Kalamazoo, the brewpub is adjacent to The > > Kalamazoo Brewing Co. Congratulations and thanks to Larry Bell, president, > > mover and shaker. > > > > Larry brews a fairly long and interesting, some would say eccentric > > line of brews that range from the refreshing (Bell's Beer) to the > > massive (Explorer Stout). I don't have a clue as far as which brews > > will be offered in the pub. Some of us will be traveling from Ann > > Arbor to Chicago this Friday for the national competition. Hummmmm > > isn't Kalamazoo on the way? The usual report will follow.... > > > > DanMcC > > > > > > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 10:53:23 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Miller Lite and American Lagers I conjecture that the Miller Brewing Co. uses a high gravity system whereby their beers are brewed at 16 P (SG = 1.065), fermented, and then aged. Following this, it would seem reasonable that they are diluted, filtered, and then in the case of Miller Lite, pasteurized. According to Fred Eckhardt (see page 49 of his TEOBS) the diluted version has an (equivalent) OG of 7.8 P (SG = 1.031), an IBU of 19.5, and an alcohol level of 3.3 % by wt. I believe these are accurate numbers, which means Miller Br. is diluting by a factor of two. What is interesting here is the Miller Lite that is residing in Miller's ruhr storage tanks. It is a 16 degree beer with an IBU of 39, and has an alcohol content of 6.6% by weight (8.25% by vol.). A knockout? You better believe it! The point of this observation is that the undiluted Miller Lite is what the original American lagers use to be. If one has any doubts about this, then check page 38 of Nugy's book. The latter is reference 12 on page 41 of Fred's book, and reference 6 in my book with Laurie. Nugy's book is full of the older beer formulations. In particular, on page 38 he gives the recipe for one of the best selling lagers in the Northeast in the pre-prohibition era. Here it is: 100 bbl. (3100 gals.) batch 4775 lbs. pale malt 1380 lbs. flaked maize 50 lbs. domestic hops 38 lbs. imported hops OG = 15P (1.061) The IBU was not cited, but with a .88 pounds per barrel hop rate it had to be as high as the undiluted Miller Lite, and maybe higher. This beer could be distinguished from European lagers because of its use of some unmalted cereal grains. Note that the flakes are used in this formulation as an adjunct in the proper sense of that term; i.e., not as a malt replacement but rather as a specialty grain which is used for special effects. In particular, the flakes give the beer a residual grainy sweetness that was apparently valued in lagers in that period. By the way, although Fuller's ESB is a dramatically different beer, one can still pick up that same "sweetness" in it. Fullers also uses flaked maize as an adjunct, something Laurie and I both directly observed last summer in London. What is a real irony here is that if any of us were to brew Nugy's lager, and enter it in the American Light category, all *$## would break loose. I can just see the looks of disbelief as unsuspecting judges tasted this one! Yet this is exactly the type of beer that originally defined this category. One final point. It is my belief that Miller Reserve is made exclusively from malted barley, and in particular no raw barley is used. I would be willing to bet that the phrase "100% Barley" was chosen by their marketing people and not by their brewers. Why is it so lightly flavored? Well folks, guess what submicron filtration gives you! George Fix P.S. Many commercial breweries (including a large one in Ft. Worth) use a 5% phosphoric acid solution as a final step in cleaning. It is not too good with organic dirt (caustic solutions are used for that), but it will really put a nice shine on 304 stainless. It is regarded as being natural to beer, and not aggressive to equipment. Rinsings is nevertheless used after its use. P.P.S. Thanks for all the nice e-mail that was sent. There are a bunch of really great people on this network! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 16:25:33 EDT From: "Robert J. Napholz" (GC-HSI) <rnapholz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: cherries hello all in hbd #1157 mark asked about kegging pressure(dispensing) I use 8-10 psi(even less for a party) to dispense but 15 psi when not in use its a pain but it works well. Keep your spigot Mark!! Im considering brewing Papazian "cherries in the snow" p220 TNCJOHB 6 lbs light malt extract 2 oz hallertuer .5 oz hallertues finishing 10 lbs sour cherries 1-2 pks ale yeast however i prefer a partial grain any suggestions ?? how about a Wyeast number ?? can i get away without a starter ??? TIA rob Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1993 14:17:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Eric Wade <ericwade at CLASS.ORG> Subject: Iodine test, unpleasant elements I usually dip a turkey baster an inch or two below the surface of the mash and draw up a tablespoon of liquid. Then filter several drops through a coffee filter onto a white plate. Seems to sufficiently filter out husk particles; my iodine tests come up negative for starch. I also wish to second George Fix's comments regarding some of the rather unpleasant elements that appear on the HBD from time to time. Judging from some of the responses that get posted to the HBD and that general etiquette is to flame in private, I'd hate to see what George gets by private e-mail. I certainly don't think he need me to defend him, but fer chrissakes, its not like the info he posts is advocating anything unorthodox or harmful. Lets try to keep this digest to useful ideas and respectful differences of opinion. If you have to blow your own horn for some reason, go outside and away from your keyboard. BTW George, keep posting. I enjoy reading and can make my own decisions based on the info provided. Eric Wade <ericwade at class.org> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 16:10:11 -0600 From: Kelly Jones <k-jones at ee.utah.edu> Subject: Re: SS Kegs Someone queried about differentiating between SS and aluminum in kegs... There are many entries in the archives regarding this, but the best method is probably to obtain a sample of NaOH of KOH (caustic soda or caustic potash). Put a few drops on the metal to be tested. Within about 30 seconds, the solution will start to fizz and bubble, evolving hydrogen gas, if the metal is aluminum. The solution will have no effect on SS. This should also work with Drano or lye, if you don't have access to a chem lab. WARNING: THESE SOLUTIONS ARE VERY DANGEROUS. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS, OR NOT AT ALL IF YOU ARE THE TYPE TO HOLD OTHERS RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN MISHAPS. Kelly <k-jones at ee.utah.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 93 16:51:02 CDT From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU> Subject: Foam with kegging In response to Mark Parshall <markus at pyramid.com>: Mark, Your problem can be related to both temperature and pressure. I had exactly your same problem. The main cause of foaming is dispensing with too low a pressure. However, since a higher dispensing pressure causes more agitation of your beer, it also causes the CO2 to come out of solution and foam. So the trick here is to increase dispensing pressure but slow down the flow. How do you do that? Use a smaller diameter dispensing hose so that it takes more pressure to push the beer through the smaller hose. I changed all my tubing from 1/4" to 3/16". The out connector and the cobra faucet take 1/4" hose, so you have to have short pieces for connection plus 2 hose unions that change from 1/4" to 3/16". faucet---1/4" line---union---3/16" line---union---1/4" line---keg connector 6" 6' 6" I use 6' of 3/16" tubing and this has completely eliminated my foaming problems. Another thing that will cause foaming is temperature. At home I have no foaming problems because the keg and dispensing lines stay inside of my fridge. However, when I take a keg somewhere, the lines warm up and the 1st couple glasses drawn are foam until the lines are cooled by the colder beer. At homebrew club meetings, I alway watch for someone to get a beer from a keg and then immediately get one after them. They get foam, I get beer. Dont give up on the cobra faucet. My beers draw just like they do in a bar, nice and slow but with plenty of carbonation and a nice head. Get you some 3/16" tubing, unions, and hose clamps. Rapids has them. 174-T Trans 3/16" vinyl tubing .35/ft RP220C 1/4" X 3/16" Unions .90/each Rapids, Inc. 1-800-553-7906 MasterCard/Visa I have no affiliation with Rapids, just a satisfied customer. Darren Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 93 16:45:46 -0700 From: "Stephen Hansen" <hansen at gloworm.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Curmudgeons cur.mud.geon \(,)k<e>r-'m<e>j-<e>n\ n (1577) [origin unknown] 1 archaic: MISER 2: a crusty, ill-tempered, and usu. old man-- cur.mud.geon.ly adj I have noticed that the curmudgeons among us have been getting more active of late. You know who you are, so knock it off. If you don't like a post's contents or it's tone then send private e-mail and try and resolve it that way. If someone posts something misleading you should give them a chance to correct it themselves. If you feel you MUST flame I strongly suggest that you wait 24 hours between writing the flame and sending it. The HBD has been something special in network land in terms of its high s/n ratio and relative lack of flamage. Please, let's keep it that way. Stephen Hansen Homebrewer, Archivist Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 16:56:49 MDT From: pyle at intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) Subject: Batch sparging Rob Thomas asks about batch sparging. I use this method, out of laziness mostly. It works for me but my efficiency isn't near what is claimed here on the net for many folks. Of course, I only do a single batch, i.e. I dump all of the sparge water into the lauter tun, stir it, let it settle, recirculate a bit, and drain it all off. Once. I get around 24 pts/lb/gal. I expect that could be raised significantly with a couple of batches, even if the total amount of sparge water isn't significantly increased. Of course, as you increase the number of batches, you approach the continuous inlet of sparge water method which I, because of my admitted laziness, am trying to avoid. I may get really ambitious next time and split my sparge water into two batches to check the impact on extract efficiency. Or not. For those of you using a Bruheat or equivalent as a boiler: I always pull my stove out, crawl back there, unplug the stove, plug in the Bruheat, and proceed to brew with the stove in the middle of the kitchen (don't want to push it back in, might be a bit too much work!). My new plan, soon to be implemented, is to connect a small extension to the back of the stove. It will be connected from the terminals on the back of the stove up to a 220V connector which is mounted on the back of the stove, near the top (much easier to get at). There is no modification to the house wiring, or to the stove, and it can be removed when/if I move. The added benefit of this is that my stove will not be out of action for heating sparge water or something else. The Bruheat will be in parallel with the stove's load but it is small compared to the maximum drain from the stove/oven. If I only use one or two other heating elements at the same time it should be no problem. Another added benefit is that, at most, the stove will only be pulled out a few inches. DISCLAIMER: Don't do this! Working with 220V (221, whatever) is dangerous and this does not comply with any Electrical Codes that I am aware of. NO NO NO! I do not recommend you do this! It was only a joke (note smileys: ;) :0 :) ). Cheers, Norm Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1158, 06/08/93