HOMEBREW Digest #1161 Fri 11 June 1993

Digest #1160 Digest #1162

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  stuffed up head from industrial beers (Terry Mcguire)
  sanitizers part 2 (donald oconnor)
  "Wines and Beers of Old New England" - book recommendation (Paul LaBrie)
  Screw off bottles (geotex)
  Mail Order Supplies (geotex)
  5 l mini kegs (dave ballard)
  Evaporative Cooling ("William A Kitch")
  Re: Molasses in Beer ("Robert Haddad" )
  Garrett Hildebrand (George J Fix)
  Hop Utilization, Hop Bags (Mark Garetz)
  MI brewpubs and headaches. (John E. Greene)
  Phil's Mill Report ("Manning, Martin P")
  Siphon starters, headaches ("Roger Deschner  ")
  dry hopping/malt extract/siphoning (Jonathan G Knight)
  Re: canned beer (Richard Stueven)
  excedrine headache #999 (BadAssAstronomer)
  Fermentation Lock (Marci Levie)
  PhilMill (korz)
  Hop, Barley, and the Ale'ers... (Corby Bacco)
  Liquid CO2 (Jack Schmidling)
  Brewpub legalization in God's Country (fwd) (Chuck Cox)
  William's Info (Kieran O'Connor)
  HB in Western PA (STBLEZA)
  strawberries (Dick Dunn)
  Microwaves (Phil Hultin)
  Re: How Long do Hops Float? (korz)
  sanitizers, the middle section (donald oconnor)

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 01:30:24 -0700 From: Greg Wolodkin <wolo at cory.Berkeley.EDU> Subject: Re: The stick I buried won't grow >>buried a Rhizome an inch deep 2 weeks ago and nothing has peeped up yet. > Last year I planted a rather sickly looking Cascade rhizome. After > several weeks a couple of weak shoots appeared (while the Mt. Hood > hops, planted at the same time, were growing vigorously) and grew to > a whopping two feet tall. This year, my Cascade hops are still > weak looking, but have grown to 5 feet tall. My Cascades have reached about 8 feet now, but the Chinook cuttings never appeared. I dug them up recently to find them rotted and full of little white worm-looking things. They were planted in the same soil and received the same attention, so I guess they are either more temperamental or just defective. So when do the hop cones appear? - -- Subject: NEW PRODUCT ANNOUNCEMENT > Tired of a blast of gas [...] Next to headaches, my second least favorite side effect ;-) But seriously -- what's the consensus here? Useful information, or blatant misuse of the HBD as a low-cost form of advertising? I just hope that damned Ronco guy doesn't get into homebrew.. > 4) And how do you know that the light in the fridge goes out when you close the door ? FRIDGEVIEW (tm). Best wishes, Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 6:45:49 EDT From: grctechs!tmcguire at grctechs.grci.com (Terry Mcguire) Subject: stuffed up head from industrial beers In HBD #1160 Derrick Pohl writes: > Another thing that I find happens with industrial beer is that I always > get stuffed up after a few bottles. Anybody else find that? And all this time I thought I might be allergic to beer! I figured (of course) that I would have to live with it! I never got stuffed up from Bourbon (sorry, is that a bad word here?). Does anyone know the cause of this annoyance? thanks! Terry McGuire tmcguire at grctechs.grci.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1993 22:56:11 -0500 From: donald oconnor <oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: sanitizers part 2 3. Ease of use Both are easy to use but iodophor has two advantages. Iodophor is colored due to the iodine. Iodine reacts (2 electron reduction) to form iodide ion which is colorless. Therefore its possible to know by the color of the solution when the stuff is spent. However, when used properly, its very difficult because the color is very faint due to dilution. Bleach has the disadvantage of being unstable. Liquid bleach loses it's oxidizing strength with time after opening. 4. Flavor and odor and residue So why are iodine sanitizers so much more popular than chlorine sanitizers in the food and beverage industry? It's all over the ads and bottles of iodophor. "TASTELESS" "ODORLESS" Chlorine can be detected at very small levels. Iodine thresholds are much higher. All of the other differences between the two are miniscule by comparison. Bleach should be rinsed out to insure removal of the residual flavor. It is not essential to rinse iodophor, but some do. There was an article in the New Brewer a couple of issues back in which a brewpub detailed their sanitation procedure. They rinse out the residual iodophor. The two brands of iodophor I use do not contain detergent as was suggested a few days ago. Both are designed explicitly for the beer and beverage industry. Neither leaves a residue which will impair head retention etc. 5. Cost and availability Household bleach costs about $1/gallon. Iodophor is typically about $10 per liter. Bleach has 5 times as much sanitizing strength ounce for ounce. Therefore, bleach is about 200 times cheaper than iodophor. Bleach is everywhere. Iodophor has much more limited availability. 6. Personal safety Both oxidizers will kill cells including yours and mine. Both should be handled carefully. But bleach is a stronger oxidant so a little more dangerous on this point. More importantly though is the caustic nature of full strength bleach. This poses a more serious risk, particularly to eyes. Iodophor is a safer product than household bleach. So pick your poison :-) Both dilute iodophor and dilute bleach can and have been used as effective sanitizers. Bleach is cheaper. Iodophor is safer to use, more stable, and is tasteless and odorless. Neither poses a threat to 304 stainless equipment. And remember, you need less than 1 teaspoon of bleach in the entire 5 gallon keg to get the same level of sanitation that iodophor provides at its recommended dose. Hope this clears up some of the confusion. Best regards, Don Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 9:17:22 -0400 (EDT) From: P_LABRIE at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Paul LaBrie) Subject: "Wines and Beers of Old New England" - book recommendation Occasionally there have been some posts concerning old beer recipes, old-time ingredients such as spruce, nettles, etc. For those interested in such things, I have found the following book a delightful read; if you think you have problems with homebrewing...you should see what early New Englanders had to go through to craft beer (a beverage they dearly loved, BTW)! This is very much a "hands-on" type of book -- be prepared for some interesting recipes. Here's the info on the book, courtesy of Dartmouth College Online Library system...(I think that Sanborn C. Brown, the book's author, was a faculty member at Dartmouth College). I do not know (definitely) if this book is still in print, however I think it is. Apologies if this has been posted before. Search S1: FIND TITLE WINES AND BEERS OF OLD NEW ENGLAND Result S1: 2 items in the CATALOG file Author: Brown, Sanborn Conner, 1913- Title: Wines & beers of old New England : a how-to-do-it history / Sanborn C. Brown ; drawings by Ed Lindlof. Collation: xxx, 157 p. : ill. ; 21 cm. Imprint: Hanover, N.H. : The University Press of New England, 1978. Notes: Bibliography: p.[149]-150. Includes index. Type: Book Language: eng Subjects: Brewing -- United States -- History. Brewing -- Amateurs' manuals. Wine and wine Wine and wine making -- Amateurs' manuals. - paul - p_labrie at unhh.unh.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 10:01:28 EDT From: <geotex at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Screw off bottles I hope this question isn't too obvious. But I was wondering why most literature on homebrewing that I have read says "DO NOT USE TWIST OFF BOTTLES". I have used twist offs for about 10 batches and have not had any problems. BTW, I use Bud/Busch bottles. Thanks Alex geotex at engin.umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 10:08:00 EDT From: <geotex at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Mail Order Supplies Have people had good luck ordering supplies by mail? I have heard that some ingredients (yeast, hops) my be damaged by travelling in the mail. Is there a listing somewhere of suppliers? Thanks Alex geotex at engin.umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 1993 10:40 EDT From: dab at cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard) Subject: 5 l mini kegs hey now- there's a brew ha ha ad in Brewing Techniques for a 5 liter mini kegging system ($40 for 4 5 l kegs and tap thingy). would anyone who's tried these things please drop me a not and let me know what you think? thanks! dab ========================================================================= dave ballard dab at cc.bellcore.com ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 09:59:16 CST From: "William A Kitch" <kitchwa at bongo.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: Evaporative Cooling Here's an inexpensive alternative to those who want to do summertime brewing in hot climates but haven't got the $ and/or space for an extra freezer w/Hunter Airstat etc. Since my last post on this subject (See HBD#1147), I've done some more experimenting. This time I used a fan to blow air by my glass carboy wrapped in a wet towel. This allowed me to achieve the full wet-bulb depression in the fermenter. Lastest example: Dry-bulb temp, 78F Wet-bulb temp, 68F Beer in carboy, 68F I use a lot more water than when using the fan. Before, when I used passive evaportion, I would have to add water to the pan every other day or so. Using the fan I have to add about a gallon of water *every* day. As noted in my earlier post, I brew in a house with central airconditioning. The dry-bulb temp inside is generally 76-82F and the relative humidity is about 55-70%. In Austin the peak outside temps now are now 85-95F with relative humidity 75-90%. Some of you have suggested I simply place the fermenter in front of an air duct and forget the evaporative cooling. I don't do this for two reasons: 1) My air ducts are in the cieling, making it difficult to place a 7 gal carboy 'in front' of one. 2) During the day my AC runs < 50% of the time and less than than at night. Without some insulating system this would lead to fairly large fluctuations in fermenter temp. Recall the ambient room temp is up to 80F. In summary: Using inexpensive evaporative cooling to *supplement* the normal refridgerated cooling. I'm able to take my 76-82F, 55-70% RH house temps down to 68-72F in the fermenter. High but acceptable temps for ales. Those of you with basements in the low to mid 70s should be able to get fermenter temps down to 60-65F. To those of you with the $ and space for a chest freezer, I'm jealous. Sante', WAK Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 93 11:54:29 EDT From: "Robert Haddad" <M-RHADDAD at bss1.umd.edu> Subject: Re: Molasses in Beer > 3) I'd like to experiment with adding different sugars to my wort, > particularly brown sugar or molasses. Has anyone tried these ? I have brewed with a combination of malt extract and Carob Molasses, which you can find in most Middle Eastern groceries. I have used, in 5 gal batches, a 16oz jar of the stuff. Its very dark, and sweet, and ferments out quite well. The carob, which (I think) is a fruit borne by trees does have a distinctive taste in the beer. I have also used Mate instead of hops. Mate is an Argentinian tea (pronounced Ma tay) and can be bought in Latin groceries. It too has a dinstinctive and pleasant flavor. > 4) I realize that sterility is very important. All of the procedures > that I've read mention that during racking, a siphon should > be used to transfer the fermented wort. However, I have > yet to figure out how to start a siphon without getting my > mouth on the end of the hose. I grab a glass from the kitchen cupboard. I stick my siphon hose under the faucet, fill it with water, stick one finger on one end to stop water from running out, stick the other (open) end in my carboy, then drain the water which is in the hose into the sink. As the water drains out, I can see the beer replacing it in the hose. I then take my glass and fill it with a beer, then stick the hose in my secondary or my keg, or the bootles I am filling. No problem! no mess! no contamination! With my glass-ful of beer, I check the specific gravity, and then relax and drink it all up. Robert F. Haddad m-rhaddad at bss1.umd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 10:08:52 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Garrett Hildebrand Please forgive the brief use of bandwidth, but my e-mail to Garrett has been bouncing. Garrett: Diversity Chemical usually has a local office in all major cities. Look the one near you up in the yellow pages. It is best to buy iodophor in a gallon jug. Don't let them talk you into anything larger. Accord II was designed for breweries. The version in most homebrew shops (the one containing the detergent instead of phosphoric acid) was designed for dairies. If stored in a cool, dry location it will have a good shelf life. Use 1 oz. per 10 gallons (1 tbsp. per 5 gals.) Diversity claims 2 min. contact time is sufficient. I use 5-10 mins. The diluted solution should display a well defined red/yellow color. If it is white, then dump the solution and start over. This sometimes happens when attempting to sanitize eqipment that has been cleaned with an alkaline based agent and not properly rinsed. I would not use iodophor on plastic tubing. Al Korzonas' recommendation to use bleach followed by a water rinse is a good one. Take care. George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 9:09:11 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Hop Utilization, Hop Bags Bob Jones writes that he doesn't believe that yeast affects hop utilization, and would rather see the calculation split into two: Well, if Bob is strictly referring to the extraction of alpha acids during the boil, then he's part right. I say "part right" because at what point would we measure the utilization? Right after you shut off the heat or after the wort has cooled? The amount of alpha acids in the beer will be drastically different at these two points, since the solubility varies widely with temperature. But the issue of when we measure is the whole point. IBUs are measured in finished beer, not wort. Utilization is meaningless unless we relate it to the finished product. The point of the whole calculation is to predict what we will end up with in the final beer. So to my mind, it makes no difference whether we combine or separate the calculations for the effect of yeast on the beer. You're going to have to do both sets of calculations before you add the hops. If you really want to separate the two, use the "average" column from the table and then adjust your number up or down depending on your yeast's characteristics. I used a 20% adjustment factor, up or down from average, in the table. John Cotterill writes that he wants to get rid of the bag he uses for dry hopping and wants to know how long the hops will float: Firstly, I have never seen the hops sink if added loose, but some brewers have told me they will. I think that CO2 bubbles form on the petals and hoist them to the surface. Clogging of the lines may or may not be a problem, but better to assume that clogging is a potentiality. However, having the hops float on the surface is not the optimal way to get the hop aroma infused into the beer. Commercial brewers use a bag, and that's what we recommend. If you weight the bag so it sinks, that's a lot better than just tossing it in. I have also tied the bag to the dip tube, but this is difficult. We sell a hop bag/hop weight "system" that consists of a draw- string cotton bag and a solid teflon weight. The weight attaches to the free end of the drawstring and that accomplishes two things: 1) The weight doesn't take up any room in the bag, and 2) This allows the bag to float up and be suspended in the middle of the beer to get optimal extraction. The reason for the teflon weight is it's inert properties, you can safely boil it to sterilize, but most important is that it is gentle on glass carboys and won't scratch them or plastic buckets or stainless tanks. We considered using a stainless weight (would have been much cheaper than teflon) but were concerned that it might break a carboy in the process of putting it in or getting it out. The other nice thing about our design is that to get the hop bag out of the carboy, you invert the carboy to get the weight to drop through the neck, grab the weight and pull the bag through. One more tip: It helps to wet the bag of hops before putting it in the beer. This diplaces a lot of the air and helps make sure the beer gets into/out of the bag quicker. Fritz Maytag also recommends wringing the bag out into the beer when you remove it. (If you remove it, I just leave mine in the serving keg) Sheesh! This was a long post and I didnt mean it to be. Anyway, John, the bottom line is, IMHO, keep the bag. Mark from HopTech Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 09:04:10 PDT From: johng at adx.la.ca.us (John E. Greene) Subject: MI brewpubs and headaches. My reason for making the distinction about brewpubs comes from when I toured Alpine Village Brewery here in Torrance CA. It is built ajacent to the Alpine Village Inn which has a huge bar with windows looking into the brewery. However, there is no door connecting the two. The Village Inn must buy the beer from the brewery and it is brought over by leaving the shipping dock of the brewery and entering the receiving dock of the Village Inn (basically the back door). Because of this however, the manager of the brewery was pretty clear about stating that is why it is not a brewpub. A minor difference I guess but a pretty big one when it comes to the law. It struck me as kind of odd at the time which is probably why I remember it. WRT headaches and commercial beer. I have read a lot of different things about hangovers and the causes/cures and what seemed to be most common amongst the majority is two things. 1. the headache is usually caused by dehydration. Your brain has dried up and hurts because of it. My guess is that commercial beer tends to dehydrate more. My sinuses give me a lot of trouble and commericial beer will clog up my head in no time. The majority of a hangover headache for me is sinus related so a lot of water and some decongestants are the first thing I go for in the morning. Why homebrew would dehydrate less, I don't know. 2. Drinking alcohol does deplete your body of vitamin B. Homebrew has a lot of vitamin B contained in the yeast. However, I have read that vitamin B is used by your body to process food and/or alcohol and probably has very little to do with your headache. The lact of vitamin B I think has much to do with why after a night of drinking you eat some breakfast(or lunch) and 6 hours later you spew it back up literally unchanged. I find that with homebrew, I never have an upset stomach the next morning. I feel a bit groggy and that is about it. These are nothing more than two theories that I have come up with after talking to many 'less-than-qualified' people in the medical field and various documents on the subject. Any comments, questions, and/or additions are more than welcome. - --john Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jun 1993 00:36:28 -0600 From: "Manning, Martin P" <manning#m#_martin_p at mcst.ae.ge.com> Subject: Phil's Mill Report In HBD #1160, Mike Gildner asks about the Phil's mill. I have seen and used prototypes of Phil's Mill from Listermann Mfg., and submit this post not as an advertisement but as a consumer report. This is a single roll mill, which has the grain pass between the knurled roll and a plate which curves partially around it. The gap between these two is adjustable by means of a machine screw and locknut. The early prototype version I used seemed to work well, i.e. gave a good crush, and Dan (Listermann) has tested this observation by sifting the grist through a set of brewery screens, and comparing the (weight) percentages left on each to published data for 6-roll mills. The results showed that the Listermann mill could be adjusted to come close to the desired weight percentages, but this may or may not be the right thing to do, because the mechanics of the one roll mill crush are obviously much different than a 6-roll. Only more experience with the mill and brewing with it will tell. A Corona mill, adjusted to a nominal (compromise) setting gave far more large particles than desired, and a visual inspection of the particles revealed that the corona, to no one's surprise, damaged the husks much more. This could be observed both in the largest remaining husk particles and in the color of the fines at the bottom of the stack. In the case of the Corona, these were darker in color, perhaps indicating that some of the husks were ground into flour. The early Listermann mill was faulted by those who tried it for being too slow. The fancy-looking, nickel plated, pre-production prototype that I later saw was enlarged significantly, having a larger diameter and wider roll. I have not tried this version out first hand, but it looks like it will do the trick, with through-put and torque requirements (according to Listermann) similar to a Corona. Shipment of the first production models is imminent. Martin Manning Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 11:32:26 CDT From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Siphon starters, headaches To start a siphon, I have used with success a small clear plastic pump from an aquarium shop. Once the beer starts to flow, you unplug it from the tubing. They sell them for starting the siphon when you're cleaning out your fishtank but you don't want to put your fingers in there with Fang, your pet piranha. They're simple enough that you can sterilize them with your normal bleach solution procedure. HEADACHES: Many theories have been espoused: WORSE HEADACHES--------------LESS HEADACHES Heavier, Darker Beers Lighter, Clearer Beers Factory Made Beers Naturally Brewed Beers Adjuncts All-Malt Fire Brewed Steam-Heated Brew Kettles Fermentation By-products Blow-off tube used Had a headache already Didn't have a headache already Yeah sure. Some of these may have a secondary effect. However, we are kidding ourselves if we ignore the primary cause of beer headaches: More total alcohol Less total alcohol in a session in a session Remembering that the amount of alcohol in beer, especially homebrew, can vary widely, moderation will reliably reduce headaches better than any other method. Quit kidding. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 12:01:02 cdt From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ at GRIN.EDU> Subject: dry hopping/malt extract/siphoning John Cotterill asked about hops floating during dry hopping. I have dry hopped successfully with pellets, although once I got what looked like a jump- strated fermentation, although I was advised by HBDers that it was really something else, having to do with CO2 bubbling out of solution (Sorry for the inept description - I'm a musician, not a chemist). One post in response to a question I had asked about dry hopping way back claimed that dry hopping with pellets can actually provide a sort of "fining" effect as the hop particles dissolve and sink through the beer. Don't know if that's true, but it's an interesting theory. Another response I got when I asked about dry hopping was to try leaf hops in a bag weighted down with sanitized marbles. I really like this idea but haven't tried it yet. However, it seems to me that one might be likely to get the best hop flavor this way, and zero problems with racking too. Bart Thielges asks about inexpensive malt extracts. Since there is no homebrew supply shop in my neck o' the woods, I mail order all the time. William's Brewing in California and the Home Brewery (several outlets, I use the one in Missouri) both sell good quality brands of extract in 6 lb. pouches for $12-14. Beats the hell out of the price we pay for those 3.3 lb cans! Also, about Bart's siphoning question: I personally use the turkey baster method. It fits right in the end of standard transfer tubing - I suck a couple of times, and away we go! I use this turkey baster ONLY for beer racking, and I sanitize before & after use. A friend of mine used to use the mouth method - and made kick-ass beer, by the way - and he used to rinse his mouth first with grain alcohol. Sounds like fun, but it's not for me. (The thought has occured to me, though, that I ought to be quaffing a nice single- malt scotch while brewing, to cut down on the organisms from my mouth that I might be breathing into my beer, nudge, nudge, wink.) Jonathan Knight Grinnell, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 10:19:18 -0700 From: Richard Stueven <gak at wrs.com> Subject: Re: canned beer >From: jlf at palm.cray.com (John Freeman) >Subject: canned beer > >Is there any good beer that comes in cans? At the risk of reigniting a religious war, I'll recommend Draught Guinness in a Can. Of course, it's heresy to drink it from a plastic cup, but rugged fishermen make do with what they have, nicht wahr? >My fishing buddies >showed up with Bud Lite and Pig's Eye last weekend. So it's either >bring the beer myself or get new friends... Hmmm...tough call. have fun gak Richard Stueven, Castro Valley CA gak & gerry's garage, brewpub and hockey haven Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 12:54:33 -0500 (CDT) From: BadAssAstronomer <STOREY at fender.msfc.nasa.gov> Subject: excedrine headache #999 Hi there. > In HBD#1159 Jonathan G Knight writes: > >>The other reason I don't want to do this - and the reason I stopped after two >>Extra Golds - was that I got something I don't remember getting in a long >>time: a headache! Jim said; > On the other hand, homebrew has plenty of nice, healthy yeast in it. One >of the reasons people get hangovers is the depletion of vitamin B that >occurs as the body processes alcohol. Yeast is a great source of vitamin B, >and I think that's one reason I don't get hangovers from drinking homebrew. > Comments? Anybody else noticed a homebrew/no hangover connection? Same here. I read somewhere, I think Charlie P.'s book, that the vitamin B in yeast helps replace what is lost during a bout of drinking. I'm pretty sure this is a valid statment. As an experiment, I took a vitamin B complex before a night of drinking megabrews a few times. I did not have a hangover one single time. Amazing! So, you might give this a try, if you're feeling particularly spunky. Likewise, I never have any hangovers after homebrew or craftbrew. scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 11:32:35 -0700 From: marcil at amex-trs.com (Marci Levie) Subject: Fermentation Lock I just started my first batch of homebrew, and it's happily bubbling along, but I have a newbie question about the fermentation lock. I know that you're supposed to add water, but how far should I fill it, and should I put the lid on it (the lid that covers the whole fermentation lock, not the inverted cap over the hole)? Thanks, Marci - -- Marci Levie marcil at cs90qaserv.csv-tgsc.amex-trs.com Analysts International Corporation Phoenix, Arizona - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 13:58 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: PhilMill Mike writes: >I got my free issue of Brewing Techniques the other day and >I noticed an ad for a grain mill called Phil's Mill. The >ad was very sparse on information but it did say the price >was suprisingly low. It showed the mill clamped to a table >with a 2 liter bottle for a hopper. Has anyone seen or used >one of these mills? Yes, I've seen and used the very first prototype. It seemed simply, but sturdily built and my only concern was with the way it was clamped to the edge of the table. In a recent conversation with Mr. Listerman himself, I've learned that the clamping portion of the mill has since been improved. The throughput is a bit lower than it's formidable competition. It has a single roller which crushes the malt against an adjustable, flat plate. The crush has been tested using standard screens and has been reported to be "textbook quality" and "comparable to commercial 4-roller mills." The retail price should be between $75 and $85. If you can't find it locally, email me and I think I can help you find a mailorder source ;^). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 14:12:54 -0600 From: cbacco at ursa5.cs.utah.edu (Corby Bacco) Subject: Hop, Barley, and the Ale'ers... Greetings all, I'm moving to Colorado (Boulder area) next Teusday and would like some information on the Brew club in that area, "Hop, Barley, and the Ale'ers" if I'm not mistaken. Anyone in HBD land who is a member and can give info like who to contact and what the club is like. TIA Also, thanks to HBD for all the great info over the last year that I've been reading. My brew ,and thus myself and my friends, have definitely bennifited from it. Hopefully I'll get back online when I get to Colorado or I'll be missing out on a LOT of good info. Cheers, Corby Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 16:23 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Liquid CO2 >From: korz at iepubj.att.com >Cisco writes: >One last point is that you should keep your CO2 tank at room >temperature - not in your cooler. If you keep the CO2 tank in the >cooler the CO2 can not form a gas and remains in a liquid state >feeding into your beer and eventually it will overcarbonate it. I meant to comment on this in the original posting. There is no way a refrigerator will keep all the CO2 in a tank liquid. Furthermore, unless you have a siphon type tank or turn it upside down, there is no way you will get liquid out of it. There is always some space above the liquid level and this will always be gas. js Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 17:08:12 EDT From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: Brewpub legalization in God's Country (fwd) Al Ford <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> gave me permission to forward this to the HBD: > Brewpubs are finally legal in Texas! I just got a copy of the legislation > as passed by the State legislature (awaiting the Gov`s signature) and it is > quite generous. It allows sales for both on- and off-premise consumption > but does not allow for any off-premise distribution for resale (the > wholesale beer distributors lobby is too strong to allow that). Any > strength beer from low alcohol to barleywine may be produced. The annual > limit is 5000 bbl. per license. Serving may be from the bright beer tanks > as long as their capacity is in whole multiples of barrels (they had to > slip something completely nonsensical in there somewhere!). The brewpub > may be licensed for both beer production and beer, wine, and/or liquor > sales. Annual license fee (brewpub only) is $500. The law will go > into effect 1 Sep. > > The primary person we have to thank for pushing the legislation through is > Billy Forrester, the owner of the Dog and Duck Pub in Austin. He has already > signed a lease on a suitable building in Austin. Someday I look forward to > hearing how much the process cost him and where the money went. State > Representative Glenn Maxie also deserves our gratitude for authoring and > sponsoring the bill. > > If you know anyone with about $500K to spare, put them in touch with me. > I know just what to do with it. - -- Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> SynchroSystems / Riverside Garage & Brewery - Cambridge, Mass. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 18:40 EDT From: Kieran O'Connor <OCONNOR%SNYCORVA.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: William's Info Yesterday I put in a note aobut William's Brewing and the device they sell for regulating fridges. Since I got a few requests, here's the info: the price is $49. Call (800) 283-2745, or (510) 895-2739. It is item # E26. Kieran O'Connor E-Mail Addresses: Bitnet: oconnor at snycorva.bitnet Internet: oconnor at snycorva.cortland.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 1993 18:41:49 -0500 (EST) From: STBLEZA at grove.iup.edu Subject: HB in Western PA Greetings all... I'm currectly living in western PA (Indiana, PA, to be exact), and was wondering if there are Micros, HB'ers, or ANYTHING HB related in the Indiana, Altoona, Johnstown, or even Pittsburgh area. If this type of request is no longer desired on the HBD, forgive, I've been away for awhile. Also, use the reply method you think will be most productive. White Belts Motto: Weavles Wobble but they don't Fall Down +*****************************************+***********************************+ | |1,000,000 Lemmings Can't be Wrong! | | WARNING: Highly Toxic Mentallity |-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-| | The Surgeon General has determined that |Jacobus Jager Draake | | this E-Mail Poster has a state of mind |(AKA J. Hunter Heinlen) | | that could prove hazardous to even |(Bitnet:STBLEZA at IUP) | | casual Internetters. |(Internet:STBLEZA at GROVE.IUP.EDU) | +=========================================++==================================+ Yes, I know I exist, it's you that | The SCA... A Dream to Some, I'm worried about. | A Nightmare to Others! Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 93 16:49:01 MDT (Thu) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: strawberries Just for one data point, I recently made a mead with 12 lb strawberries in a 5 gallon batch. The strawberry character is reasonably strong, but could be stronger--if I do it again, I'll use 15 lb (i.e., 3 lb/gallon). To put this in context, I was aiming to have strawberry be the dominant flavor. On the other hand, the mead was made with a relatively light honey, so there isn't a lot of other flavor fighting with the strawberry. But it does take more strawberries than other berries for comparable amounts of flavor. --- Dick Dunn rcd at eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA ...Simpler is better. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 19:39 EDT From: Phil Hultin <HULTINP at QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA> Subject: Microwaves The problem with sterilizing in the microwave is this: Microwaves do not heat a given volume of liquid evenly. The temperature can be at boiling in one part of your liquid, and well below it at another. This means that unless you boil for long enough that the liquid is thoroughly mixed by convection and by the bubbles rising through it, you can have living bugs still in there. This long boil takes just about as long as doing it on the stove, but when the stovetop boil is rolling, the WHOLE volume of the liquid is boiling. However, I can confirm that the mini-mash in the microwave (M-MitM?TM?) works really well for preparing samples. I just need a mini-lauter tun and I can brew on the 1-bottle scale in no time flat! ;-) P. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 18:43 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Re: How Long do Hops Float? JC writes: >I currently dry hop during secondary fermentation in a soda keg. My hops are >placed into a hop bag that is dropped into the keg. I want to get away from >using the bag. However, since I do not have a filter in the bottom of the >keg, and don't want to add one, I am concerned that the hops will clog the >dip tube in the keg. This assumes, however, that they sink to the bottom >of the keg during the 7-10 days they spend in the secondary. So how long >do Hops float? I've found that pelletized hops don't even float a week and thus have avoided them for dryhopping. I've had whole hops float for three weeks although I recommend dryhopping for only 7-10 days. If you're concerned about clogging, you could put a stainless steel scrubbing pad at the bottom of the keg, in the little dimple, and then position the liquid dip tube so that it pins the scrubbie in the dimple. It would sanitize along with the rest of the keg. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 23:09:07 -0500 From: donald oconnor <oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: sanitizers, the middle section 2. Reactivity with 304 stainless Chlorine by itself is really not the issue with respect to reaction with 304 stainless. If it were, then iodine would also be a problem because the chemistry of the two is so similar. It is the alkalinity (high pH) of bleach that poses the problem. Alkaline solutions are caustic, i.e., corrosive. For example, lye or soda ash (sodium hydroxide) in water are caustic. In an indirect way, it actually is soda ash that gives bleach it's caustic effect. Sodium hypochlorite is made by bubbling chlorine gas through water to which soda ash has been added. (If it's neutral or acidic water it's called chlorine water and hypochlorous acid is formed which is a stronger oxidizer than hypochlorite ion.) In other words, sodium hypochlorite is made in a very caustic solution. The caustic effect is due to the concentration of hydroxide ions which is directly related with pH. The higher the hydroxide concentration, the higher the pH. If the solution is diluted, the hydroxide concentration drops concomitantly with the pH and the solution becomes less and less caustic, eventually to the point where it poses no problem. For example, lye will burn your skin but if you dilute it sufficiently it will not. In the case of aqueous sodium hypochlorite with 304 stainless, it's simply a matter of dilution. So what dilution is needed. Laboratory tests done with brewing in mind showed 250 ppm of chlorine at "normal pH" is safe. "Normal" is nonsensical with regard to pH. normal for water? whose water? normal for bleach solution? what concentration in what water? all pH values are 'normal'. If the test was done by simply diluting the bleach with distilled water then the pH would fall as the concentration of chlorine (as hypochlorite) fell. In fact, if you know the pH, you know the chlorine concentration and vice versa. 250 ppm is 70 times greater than what is needed for sanitizing. Therefore we can conclude that even the most careless homebrewer can confidently use household bleach for a single use without worry about damaging his 304 stainless keg. How about repeated use? The arithmetic would seem to be pretty simple. Since laboratory tests show no effect with a single use, let's put an appropriate number on it: ZERO. Let's do the test 1 billion times (lots of beer). The total effect is then ZERO times 1 Billion equals ??? I'll leave this as a homework assignment:-) In addition we have the testimonial of John Isenhauer of having used bleach at 50 ppm for 15 years on the same kegs without effect. Therefore, reasonable people can only conclude that dilute bleach can be used with 304 stainless repeatedly without worry. Now what about the corrosive effect of iodophor on 304 stainless? Some who condemn bleach use an iodophor which contains phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid will react with 304 stainless. (My laboratory tests have confirmed this.) This is due to the acidity (pH again). Ironically, the individual using this iodophor is faced with the same problem for which he condemns bleach. Fortunately, the solution for phosphoric acid sanitizer is the same as that for bleach: dilution. The type of iodophor containing phosphoric acid was designed to be used for the dairy industry, not the beer industry. Furthermore, it's my understanding that it is used commercially in 140-160 F water. I suspect it works pretty well, but the other iodophors such as BEST and BTF were specifically designed for the beverage industry and are more suitable for our purposes. These iodophors pose no corrosive threat at any concentration. (the last part of this post appeared last friday.) i hope this clears up some of the confusion and lays to rest some of the needless worry. take care, don Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1161, 06/11/93