HOMEBREW Digest #1176 Wed 07 July 1993

Digest #1175 Digest #1177

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  filter, etc catalogs (Richard Childers)
  Re: Electrim bin (Andy Phillips)
  attenuation and my $.02 (Chris Pencis)
  never mind on attenuation (Chris Pencis)
  Pumps, Farmers, Noble,  (Jack Schmidling)
  do-it-yourself mash tuns - some pointers (Richard Childers)
  Copper question (Jim Grady)
  Elaine's question about 3gal batch in 5gal carboy (WEIX)
  Keg Information Needed (roberts735)
  Help with homebrew at a party. (Riccardo Cristadoro)
  Dangerous Zymurgy suggestion (Riccardo Cristadoro)
  Cask Question (Keith Sabol)
  Besieged by baleful bacteria (Jeff Benjamin)
  Looking for a High-Gravity recipe / Watermellon recipe (high-gravity recipes anyone?  06-Jul-1993 0959 -0400)
  Carboys (Rich Ryan)
  Miller's recipe question ("Anton Verhulst")
  Wedding brews (Kern)
  Fourth Annual Colorado Brewers Festival (TAYLOR)
  brewpubs in Providence (ADCMR)
  KQED San Francisco Beer Festival (ron_hall)
  Attenuation of Wyeast 1056 (miata!rlbowen)
  High Gravity//South Carolina HB (Ed Kesicki)
  Low gravity all grains (Martin Wilde)
  Full carboys (korz)
  orange peels/ranting (LLAPV)
  OOPS!!! (korz)
  Converting a 1/2 bbl keg... (MIke Peckar  06-Jul-1993 1635)
  Freezer controls/Miller Special Reserve (Omega)
  Re: HBD soul-searching and hops (Garrett Hildebrand)
  Re: lautering manifold with siphon (Garrett Hildebrand)
  Hop bags/mash pH (korz)
  Yield calculator (tm) (RBSWEENEY)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 3 Jul 93 17:34:04 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard Childers) Subject: filter, etc catalogs Another catalog for filters ( and pumps ) is SERFILCO, Ltd ... Glenview, IL, US 800 323 5431 Leola, PA, US 717 656 2161 Los Angeles, CA, US 213 588 6826 Also, someone asked about Cole-Parmer ( or was it Fisher ? ) so .... Cole-Parmer 1 800 323 4340 647 7600 ( within 708 area code ) 1 708 647 7600 ( within 312 area code ) Fisher international company with at least 16 800 numbers, for the United States alone. recommend phone book, or email me for a specific area number. Omega 1 800 622 2378 ( customer service ) 203 359 1660 ( international ) ... this represents all of the members of my catalog collection, whom have materials which I think might be pertinent to brewing. ( Others whom have alternatives I don't know about are encouraged to post them. ) I use these catalogs as stimuli to my creativity, as well as resources for tangibles, and references as to what sorts of technology are commercially available. ( For instance, did you know that teflon-lined plastic tubing is available ? Would this be easier to sanitize ? I wonder ... ) Anyone have a reference to a catalog of DC motors or two ? ( For solar-powered mills, and mashers, of course - using kinetic waveform generators to facilitate the mash process ... :-) - -- richard The silliest thing I ever read, richard childers, pascal at netcom.com Was someone saying "God is dead." The simple use of The Word Negates the second, and the third. ( Duke Ellington, _Sacred Concert_ ) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 11:22 GMT From: Andy Phillips <PHILLIPSA at LARS.AFRC.AC.UK> Subject: Re: Electrim bin There was a query last about boiling in Electrim bins. I have the same problem, namely that the thermostat cuts the power too frequently when boiling, so that the wort never quite reaches a rolling boil. I got around this by by-passing the thermostat. The element socket on my bin (I bought this 10 years ago, here in the UK - yours may be different) fits a standard kettle plug. I connected this to this mains. The only risk is that the element is not designed to take continuous power, and heat transfer from it may also be reduced by burnt-on sugars. However, I've only had one disaster so far - the element failed during a boil, and I had to boil the wort in 1 gallon batches on the stove. Moral: always carry a spare. Hope this helps Andy Phillips Bristol, UK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 10:35:44 CDT From: chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis) Subject: attenuation and my $.02 Ok fellow home brewers...(remember this phrase I'll get back to it), I have read Papazian in depth and been reading the HBD for about a month now and I have yet to get a definition of attenuation...something to do with the production from yeast? Please email me your responses on this question - if there's interest I'll post something to be entered into a HBD dictionary reference somewhere. Ok back to the start..."fellow home brewers" - we are all here reading this digest (thanks go out to Rob Gardner) for one key reason...we enjoy home brewing. There may be other aspects to that: the many year experienced 'philanthropist' type spreading his or her experience through the net, the neophyte (like myself), or others who see an opportunity to generate interest in a product within their core market. Be that as it may, it is quite evident that this bulliten(sp?)is self-policing (I have yet to see evidence of non-self-censorship or people getting kicked off the net), some people do a very good job of letting letting others know that they've gone too far. Problem is, its all just somebody's opinion, so what are you going to do about it anyway. Bottom Line: be thankful that we have the resource, some of us aren't as thick skinned as others - so take it easy *please* - thank you very much for your responses and your time. Good luck and good beer, Chris ====================================================================== |Chris Pencis chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu | |University of Texas at Austin Robotics Research Group | ====================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 10:50:15 CDT From: chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis) Subject: never mind on attenuation oops - about 15 mins after I posted about attenuation etc. I figured it out please forgive the momentary stupidity of the poster...but anyone out there might clarify: attenuation is a term expressing just how far you can expect to get from your initial gravity to the final gravity (how far will the gravity *attenuate*), often expressed as a percentage with all the way to 1.000 being 100% attenuation. Any responses and comments to get my .... out of my .... can be sent via email. Good luck and good beer, Chris ====================================================================== |Chris Pencis chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu | |University of Texas at Austin Robotics Research Group | ====================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 11:31 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Pumps, Farmers, Noble, >From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ at GRIN.EDU> >For those of you who have chest-freezers with top-opening designs, how do get the full carboys in and out w/o breaking your backs? I rigged up a rope and hook arrangement that didn't work very well and found that if I put the keg on a chair and then into the freezer, it was manageable. That is until I moved on to a ten gallon keg. This is going to take a few pulleys and a serious hoist. However, I have a pump to move beer from fermenter to keg so the only reason to have to lift it would be to be able to shake it when carbonating. It only take a few days to carbonate it at 25 lbs so I have been doing it that way. I think the pump was one of the best improvements I have made in my brewery and it cost nothing. I just removed the one from the sink in my little used motor home. ....... Just noticed you said carboy not keg. Good luck :) >From: Gene Zimmerman <ezimmerm at hp.uwsuper.edu> > It is said: Farmers make wine; Engineers make BEER! This is not simple sloppy work we are doing here.... What is often said, aint always so. Careless, uninformed people can no more make good wine than good beer. Being an engineer, I put everything I know into both and know for a fact that you only get out what you put in and considering the time invested in a good wine, the rewards can be far greater than from a good beer. >From: korz at iepubj.att.com >Styrian Goldings are neither noble nor are they Goldings, actually. The only three noble hops (this was confirmed from various sources in the Brewer's Forum) are Hallertauer, Tettnanger and Saaz. I think a definition of "noble" would be appropriate. Doesn't sound like anything a botonist could get a hold of. Just what does it mean? js Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 10:52:09 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard Childers) Subject: do-it-yourself mash tuns - some pointers "Date: Wed, 30 Jun 93 12:36:53 PDT From: Jurrasic Engineer <fecich at csoa1.enet.dec.com> Subject: Homemade Bruheat/HB store in PGH/Advertising in HBD "I'm looking for suggestions from anyone who has tried to make a home-made 'Bru-heat' type mash-tun. I've located the parts (cooler, 1KW element, thermostat), but I still have a few questions.... ">Should the heating element be separated from the grain with screen?" ">I will place the thermostat near the element, but will there be a possi- -bility of wide temperature variations in the grain?" ">Should I include some method of mixing/stirring the grain as I mash?" -=*=- I see some major problems with a lot of mash tun designs I see posted. Few of them, for instance, make use of any sort of insulator - choosing, instead, to put the heating element directly in the grain ... as well as failing to circulate the water through which the heat is transmitted ... There seems to be room for a better design. Tossing my hat into the ring, as it were, here's a proposal for a pretty good - but purely theoretical, as of this time - build-it-yourself mash tun ... I haven't built it yet, but I've been designing it in my head for a few months now. (1) acquire two nested buckets - one, sufficient to hold, say, six gallons - one, sufficiently larger, that the first bucket can be placed within it, and be separated by at least 1" of air space from the second bucket (2) assemble buckets, support structures, heating and sensing element(s), circulating element(s) - cement plastic support structures to bottom of larger bucket ( to support weight of the bucket intended to sit within ) - cement heating element(s) to inside of larger bucket, on side(s), evenly spaced ( more, smaller heating elements, evenly distrubuted, gives a better overall control of temperature, as well as a degree of fail-safe behavior / redundancy ) - cement circulating pump(s) inside larger bucket, on side(s) - some sort of pump to circulate water is absolutely necessary to guarantee that pockets of heat and cold do not develop, or that water does not become stratified by temperature. - cement smaller bucket, atop supports cemented to inside bottom of larger bucket, well centered - note that heating and circulating components are placed such that they can be reached, and not beneath the ( now cemented ) bucket. (-: ( a 1" air space may not be sufficient, and a 2" air gap may prove more desirable. ) - optionally, cement braces along sides to hold the smaller bucket centered, against bumps and such, should it prove necessary to move the masher while it is full of water - be careful not to obstruct water circulation, or reorient circulation to keep this from becoming a problem. (3) to operate, - fill air space with water - adjust thermostat to correct temperature - turn on circulation pump, heater - add water, grain to inside bucket, mash The advantage of this design is a stable temperature - as a great deal of thermal mass, in the form of the water jacket surrounding the inner mash chamber, resists sudden changes in temperature. Other advantages are the separation of the temperature module, from the mashing module ... and, with the addition of a two lids ( one to close off the mashing tun, and the other to cover the whole thing, and keep the water in the jacket from steaming off - despite this, water will need to be added periodically to offset evaporation ), and a wrapping of thick insulating material, you have a perfect mash tun. No flames, no hot spots, no problems at all. I haven't solved the problem of circulating the mash yet, but some sort of mechanical oscillator - one suggestion has been a rotating shaft with eccentrically shaped washers on it, another has been piezoelectrical vibrators such as are found in pagers - would suffice, as this would create kinetic waves that would bounce through the solution and disturb any sorts of pockets or stratifications that might develop. This chamber might also be used to cool the wort, also, by using the outer jacket to contain _cold_ water ... and with the addition of an outlet valve, with a removable rolled-up screen, bent at one end, into a pipe that went through both inner bucket and outer bucket, you could sparge, as well as - after removing the screen and replacing the hot water with cold water - pour the wort off of the hot break, all very nicely. This also has room for added control electronics, so it could become half of a BrewBot, if anyone wants to make an automated homebrew robot. ( Making the bottling automated, now _there's_ a challenge ... :-) Comments ? - -- richard The silliest thing I ever read, richard childers, pascal at netcom.com Was someone saying "God is dead." The simple use of The Word Negates the second, and the third. ( Duke Ellington, _Sacred Concert_ ) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 14:26:56 EDT From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Copper question Well, I have finally started to build a coppper manifold and have a question. I see two types of copper pipe in the hardware store; M type and L type. What kind do I want? Do I care? Thanks. - -- Jim Grady Internet: grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Phone: (508) 659-3409 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 1993 14:59:05 -0500 (CDT) From: WEIX at swmed.edu Subject: Elaine's question about 3gal batch in 5gal carboy Elaine writes: I want >to just make half a batch (3 GALS). My secondary fermenter is 6 gals and my >question is, will having that large air space be a problem? Since no one has responded to this, I would like to say that it *should* *NOT* be a problem. As far as I can see this is equivalent to using an open fermenter (or maybe it is even a little better). A tip for other novices (this includes me): a cheap source for 5gal glass carboys are stores that sell spring water. They are usually available for a $7.00 deposit (+/-). Hoppy brewing! Patrick Weix <weix at swmed.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 93 16:07:07 EDT From: roberts735 at aol.com Subject: Keg Information Needed With all the talk on the HBD lately about CO2 pressure, I have grown interested in kegging. I have located five 2.5 gallon kegs at a used restaurant supply house. Two of them have screw-on caps with tapered rubber washers, while three have clamp-type lids with smaller rubber gaskets/o-rings. There is also a combination of fittings on the tanks themselves, with some having pins, and oteers having grooves for snap-rings. I would appreciate hearing from any kegger out there on the relative merits of these various types. The kegs are pretty crudded-up, but I think they will clean. Are there any fine ponts to be aware of before sinking money into these kegs? TIA, and please reply to me with private e-mail, and I will post to the HBD if there is a consensus opinion. Please private e-mail to America On Line if possible. Robert Stovall RobertS735 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 11:49:47 PDT From: rcristad at weber.ucsd.edu (Riccardo Cristadoro) Subject: Help with homebrew at a party. I am brewing a batch of pale ale for my friend's wedding this weekend. Soon, I will keg the beer into a cornelius keg. My question regards how to keep the beer cold enough in the sun at the wedding? Does anybody have experience with portable homebrew? I planned to stick the keg in a bucket of ice. Thanks for your suggestions. STEVE Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 11:51:08 PDT From: rcristad at weber.ucsd.edu (Riccardo Cristadoro) Subject: Dangerous Zymurgy suggestion I recently purchased a back issue of Zymurgy (Gadgets and Equipment). After reading an article on preserving and freezing yeast by Maribeth Raines Ph.D. I decided to give her suggestions a try. I only wanted to store my yeast for a few weeks to a month so I followed her directions for storing the yeast in the fridge. I mixed yeast from the primary (British #1098) with an equal amount of a sucrose solution mixed at a ratio of 1 cup of water to 3/8 sucrose. I understand that the article was mostly about freezing yeasts, but she also suggests,"On the other hand, if you plan to use the same yeast within the next few months you can save the yeast from your primary fermenter and store it with an equal volume of sucrose (it's cheaper than glycerol) in the refrigerator.(Zymurgy Special 1992, p. 69)" The new solution was placed in the fridge in a sanitize and closed glass jar. In a few hours I noticed that the solution was fermenting away. So, over the last few days I have been venting the jar to keep it from exploding. This situation seems quite dangerous. Most of all, I was surprised to see an ale yeast ferment at 38 degrees. Should I take that to mean that I have a wild yeast fermenting away beside the British yeast strain. Any suggestions are appreciated. Am I doing something wrong? Any suggestions or amendments to the article. STEVE Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1993 21:37:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Keith Sabol <ks5v+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Cask Question I have a friend who is interested in racking his brew in a wooden (5 Gal.) cask. Can anyone recommend appropriate amounts of priming sugar and/or an information source for the required details? Thanks! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 93 21:21:39 MDT From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Besieged by baleful bacteria Fat Wanda's Brewery & Recording (my basement) is under attack by vicious bacteria. I've had a recurring house infection that I can't seem to get rid of, in spite of the scourings and bleach treatments. Now it's gotten to the point I can't even get an uninfected starter! To the best of my meager knowledge, it's some kind of lactobacillus or possibly pediococcus infection. Symptoms are cloudiness, a slight acidic flavor and aroma, and a tan slime on top of the krausen. These all match the symptoms described in Noonan (p. 81). My starter had been prepared normally, with dry malt and some hops, boiled, put in clean jars, given a water-bath canning procedure, then put in the fridge for a few weeks. I popped a package of WYeast 1056 on Saturday, let it swell for a few hours, then pitched it into a quart starter and capped with an airlock. By Monday, the infection was obvious. I can't imagine how the infection entered the starter. The airlock stopper? The airlock itself? Are there any beer-loving strains of lacto or pedio that can survive canning? Is there any easy way to ID the exact beasties that are giving me problems, and if I do will it help? This is really getting frustrating. I now have a batch of porter that will have to sit overnight until the brew store opens tomorrow and I can get some fresh yeast. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 07:02:09 PDT From: high-gravity recipes anyone? 06-Jul-1993 0959 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: Looking for a High-Gravity recipe / Watermellon recipe Hi y'all, I'm interested in brewing a high-gravity all-grain brew. I'm currently limited by my pot (5gal) and stove. Can anyone suggest a high-gravity recipe? I can boil up to 4gal of liquid... I do have a lauter-tun (Zapap type) that works adequately. ........ Also, anyone have a watermellon recipe? I bought a H20 mellon this weekend for a pahty and we never used it. It is a 16.3 pounder - i would like to brew something with it. Thanks, JC Ferguson Digital Littleton MA USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 10:50:59 -0400 From: Rich Ryan <ryancr at install4.swin.oasis.gtegsc.com> Subject: Carboys I'm looking to purchase a few used carboys. I've tried some of the local bottled water companies but they seem to use plastic these days. The homebrew shops I've visited want $16 to $18 for a new one. Can anyone suggest a different alternative? Any suggestions can be emailed to me privately. Rich Ryan Chantilly, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 93 11:28:31 EDT From: "Anton Verhulst" <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: Miller's recipe question After 5 all grain batches, I re-read Miller's "complete" book to see if it made more sense now (it did). I have a question about hop rates in a couple of his recipes (pages 213, 214). The format of these recipes is: xxx AAU hops 3rd addition 1 ounce (count only half of the AAUs toward your total) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What on earth does that mean? - --Tony Verhulst Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 93 11:42:15 EDT From: Kern <IZSJ at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Wedding brews While I am here in Ithaca NY trying to get a thesis written by the end of the year, I am also in the process of planning an Oregon wedding for next Spring. (I fell in love with the place (after working a summer in Portland --it will be "home" just as soon as I wrap things up here in New York!) We are getting married at Timberline Lodge (Mt. Hood) probably around the early part of June or late May '94. The reason I am writing to you all is for some advice. I am a homebrewer (since my days in Portland) and my fiance and I are avid appreciators of fine brew. Thus, we would like to plan our wedding reception around beer. Say, for instance, a Duvel-like toast, IPA or an amber during the meal, followed by something along the lines of a barley wine or Grant's Imperial Stout. I am hoping to work something out with one of the micro- breweries in the area (Widmer, Hood River, Mt. Hood, or even Weinhard?) for contract batches of both barrels and some custom bottled brews for souvenirs. (I'm sure it would taste better on the first anniversary than that frozen wedding cake!) I am pretty sure this is "do-able", but the most difficult part is trying to coordinate everything from 2,000+ miles away! If any HBDers (esp. you in the Pacific NW) have any clues, advice, hints, suggestions, (ETC..!) I would REALLY appreciate it! Thanks. KERN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1993 12:06:48 -0400 (EDT) From: TAYLOR at sbchm1.chem.sunysb.edu Subject: Fourth Annual Colorado Brewers Festival I attended a Brewer's Festival in Fort Collins, Colorado on June 26 and 27. I was particularly impressed with Judge Baldwin's Amber Ale. It was a remarkably pleasant way to spend part of a weekend. - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Taylor - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 6 July 93 11:15:52 CST From: ADCMR at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Subject: brewpubs in Providence Hello fellow brewers, I will be moving to Providence, Rhode Island in a few weeks and figured I would plumb the depths before I jumped (not that I haven't already committed by climbing the ladder). In any case, I will be living somewhere in the vicinity of Brown University and would like to know of any brewpubs and homebrew suppliers in the area. If there is some sort of a homewbrew club I would also be interested in that. Thanks much for any information y'all can provide me with. Caleb Rounds bidding a woeful farewell to glorious Austin, Tejas. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 16:48:00 +0000 From: ron_hall%80 at hp6400.desk.hp.com Subject: KQED San Francisco Beer Festival I am surprised that there have been no posts yet about the KQED San Francisco Beer Festival. Perhaps it is the format of the thing that makes it not get the kind of recognition that the GABF or the Oregon Brewers Festival get, as it may not appeal to some homebrewers. Let me describe it this way: Have you wandered into your local import beer shop and said to yourself, "boy, I sure wish I could taste ALL of these beers." Well, you almost can. The format of the KQED Beer Fest is that you pay about $30 for a ticket, then you get to taste all the beer you can in 3 hours. About 250 beers are represented, mostly imports and microbrews. I can't remember all of them, but Samuel Smith, Paulaner, Bass, Guinness, Anchor, Sierra Nevada, and many others serve their full assortment of brews in 1-2 oz tastes, usually poured from bottles. There are also many free food samples such as french bread, salmon pate, etc., to soak up some of the brew. I have to admit that I like the format of the Oregon Brewer's Fest better, as it is more relaxed and its outdoors. But I know of no other festival where you can taste the variety of import beers as the KQED. Also, the servers are often volunteers who know nothing about the beer, and the palate tends to become a bit muddled after tasting several hundred different beers :). Nevertheless, I always manage to have a great time. The KQED Beer Fest is on July 10 in San Francisco, I believe at the Armory, south of Market Street near I-80. Disclaimer: I have nothing to do with this Festival, just thought you should know. Also FYI, KQED is the local public television station. Bay Area Locals: Please post corrections or more specific info if you know more than this. Ron Hall, Corvallis, Oregon ron_hall at hp6400.desk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 10:20:22 PDT From: hpfcla.fc.hp.com!miata!rlbowen Subject: Attenuation of Wyeast 1056 I am formulating a recipe for IPA and in going through the Cat's Meow I've noticed several testaments to Wyeast #1056 producing certain aroma and flavor characteristics that I desire so I intend to give it a try. But, what I couldn't find was any data on its attenuation. Does anybody out there have any attenuation data on Wyeast #1056 (Chico Ale yeast also known as American Ale yeast)? No need to take up bandwidth, just email me direct. Thanks, Randall _________________________________________________________________________ Randall Bowen INTERNET : rbowen at analog.analog.ingr.com _________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 10:30:44 -0700 From: ek at chem.UCSD.EDU (Ed Kesicki) Subject: High Gravity//South Carolina HB Here's a data point on high gravity beermaking. I did this once inadvertently on my 2nd all grain batch. I managed to make a wort with an orig. grav of around 75-80. I fermented it as such, using Sierra Nevada Yeast. Came time to bottle, and I got three gallons bottled (out of five total). Then I decided to bring the last two gallons up to three using tap water, added an appropriate amount of additional priming sugar, then bottled. These beers came out totally different. The undiluted one was very strong and had that winey flavor (similar to bigfoot barleywine). The diluted one turned out to be a reasonably good pale ale. Very interesting. I'd be interested in hearing from someone else who could go through this same simple process and see if my data point is valid. Another good point is that you get an extra gallon without much extra work and without obtaining any larger equipment--and you get two different beers, to boot. Also, another thing to consider is hop rate. My original wort was well hopped. 11 or 12 AAU's, so the diluted one ended up with a decent bitterness. Second Thing: I am moving to Columbia, South Carolina in about a month. Anyone have any advice or info on where to get HB stuff around there, either in town or by mail order. I am doing this now in case I don't have internet access there. Thanks. Ed Kesicki San Diego, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 18:05:50 GMT From: Martin Wilde <martin at gamma.intel.com> Subject: Low gravity all grains This past weekend I brewed an all grain English Bitter (I know English Ale on the 4th of July... flame off...). The target gravity was 1037. I used 1 qt of water per pound and grain. Usually I am fairly good at hitting my target gravities. Most of my batches are OG of 1045 - 1080. For a 5 gallon batch I collect 6.5 gallons of extract (stopping when gravity reaches 1010). However this time I was only able to collect 5 gallons of extract. I had to add 2 gallons to the fermenter to get the gravity down from 1056 to 1039. What gives? Is this just the results of brewing low gravities and having to top off the boiler with water? thanks martin at gamma.intel.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 13:19 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Full carboys Jonathan writes: >For those of you who have chest-freezers with top-opening designs, how do get >the full carboys in and out w/o breaking your backs? Simple... carboy handles. I've got one on each of my nine carboys. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 6 July 93 13:59:18 CST From: LLAPV at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Subject: orange peels/ranting Howdy, In HBD 1175, Phillip Seitz writes about orange peel in Belgian beers. As a point of reference, Celis White is brewed with Curacao peels. They grind it with coriander in a small grain mill. If that's the flavor you're shooting for, that's the orange to use. I have no idea where Pierre Celis gets it from, though. Speaking of Celis, he sold his small brewery in Hoegaarden, Belgium, a few years back to Interbrew, a huge brewing conglomerate. With the millions he made he was able to set up shop here in the states. If Jim Koch did the same with A-B, maybe it will allow him to do other things in the world of brewing. It certainly will give him a lot of fast capital to work with. And who cares if A-B is brewing Sam Adams? If they stay faithful to the quality (believe it or not, Auggie Busch is big on quality), does it make any difference if Koch or Busch is in charge? Happy brewing, Alan Van Dyke Austin, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 13:54 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: OOPS!!! I wrote (quoting Michael): >>Should I use a hop bag for the pellets? > >I do, but then I also add 10% to Ragers numbers because of it. I add another >10% if I use pellets or plugs. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This should have read WHOLE hops or plugs. I add 10% for the hop bag because I contend (and have verified empirically) that the decreased agitation of the hops and decreased circulation of wort through the hops when using a hop bag require an increase in the amount of hops you use. I increase another 10% when I use whole hops or plugs because I theorize that the pelletization process exposes a lot more lupulin than is available in whole or plug forms of hops. Again, I have settled on 10% because my experience, with perhaps 75 batches since I started to make these compensations mathematically (instead of just targeting for a higher IBU in the formulas), has shown that they are pretty close -- within the tolerances of my tastebuds. I'd like to verify these numbers with actual tests, but the cost of these types of tests are a bit too expensive for me at this time. Perhaps some day. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 13:38:18 PDT From: MIke Peckar 06-Jul-1993 1635 <m_peckar at cscma.enet.dec.com> Subject: Converting a 1/2 bbl keg... Could someone please send me a copy of that article on converting a 1/2 bbl SS keg into a lauter/mash/brewing contraption? I've recently acquired a nice one and would like to look more into donning the welders hat. Thanks, I tried to locate it in the archives, but got a bit overwhelmed by the volume... m_peckar at cscma.enet.dec.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 16:59:51 EDT From: sdlsb.dnet!73410%sdlcc at swlvx2.msd.ray.com (Omega) Subject: Freezer controls/Miller Special Reserve I am picking up a chest freezer this weekend, and I will need to put a controller on it for fermentation/lagering/etc. While I've seen mentions of controls by Hunter, Johnson, and Williams in the past, I would like to get info/pros/cons/raves/flames on these or others. Given enough response I will post a summary. Private e-mail please, to "73410 at sdlcc.msd.ray.com" Had a chance over the fourth to try the new Miller Special Reserve Ale (tm, no doubt). Not to my taste, but it was a passable light ale with flavor characteristics reminiscent of the "regular" Miller pBeer. Any educated palates care to tackle whether that is yeast, hopping (I couldn't taste any), or both? Carl Howes Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 14:58:26 PDT From: mdcsc!gdh at uunet.UU.NET (Garrett Hildebrand) Subject: Re: HBD soul-searching and hops Regarding Jonathan Knight's HBD 1174 posting on advertisements and technical posts: right on! Well said. Regarding my Southern California hop garden, the hop cones have just started appearing in the last week. These are Cascade. I recall someone mentioning a while back not to grow hops near roses because the bugs on roses are bugs for hops, too. Well, I have no choice; the only spot in my yard which is good for hops is right next to the roses. I also have had no problem. I have enough praying mantis, lady- bugs and green lacewings running around my yard that little in the way of spray-on chemicals has been required. But there is a reason why one would not want to grow hops near roses which has bee brought to my attention, and which I'll share. If your roses -- or any other plant near the hops -- are being treated with any type of systemic insecticide, then beware, because the systemic in the soil can be absorbed by the hops! Garrett <uunet!mdcsc!gdh> Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 14:59:52 PDT From: mdcsc!gdh at uunet.UU.NET (Garrett Hildebrand) Subject: Re: lautering manifold with siphon In HBD 1175, Lynn Kerby discusses a lautering manifold in a pot, >I don't know what you plan to lauter in, but I have had a minor problem >with establishing and maintaining proper outflow rates. I do my >lautering in my mash pot (doing a stove-top style step mash) which is a >6 gallon Vollrath pot. At mash-out time, I thin the mash a little more >with a couple of quarts of sparge water, then I drop my lautering >manifold in and start a siphon. I siphon off a quart or two, >recirculate it and away I go. Again, the only problem has been >establishing a siphon and maintaining a suitable flow rate. I think I >am going to put a ball valve on my siphon hose and see if that helps >any for the next batch. I, too, have a six-gallon Vollrath. I have been thinking about modifying it with a valve on the bottom, as has been mentioned by others, and of trying out the "easysparge" type of system discribed by js and others, but I haven't found anybody to do the welding, and I also don't know where to get a suitable stainless valve. After reading your comments about your lautering manifold and the use of a syphon, it sounds like you have gotten around the problem of needing a valve on the pot. How about a little more detail on how this manifold is set up? Garrett <uunet!mdcsc!gdh> Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 93 16:41 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Hop bags/mash pH Mark writes (in reference to not using hop bags for boiling hops): >Also, there are many >benefits to be had to the wort by having the hop particles (whole or pellet) >thrashing around in the wort during the boil (help with protein coagulation > - aka the hot break) is the main one. Indeed hop particles will help with protein coagulation, but I feel that you should wait till after the hot break to add the hops in the first place. The last time I recall reading about this is in a post from Stuart somewhere around HBD 1150. My contention, as that mentioned by Stuart, is that the hops will do too-good a job coagulating proteins *AROUND THEMSELVES* thereby reducing the utilization. Now, if you wait till after the hot break, I suggest that there will still be some coagulation of proteins around the hops, but not nearly as much as if the hops were added before the hot break. Why does this matter? Well, the theory is that the protein coagulated around the hops will reduce utilization. I have not done side-by-side tests of this, but I do recall a significant increase in hop utilization when I began to wait for the hot break before adding the hops. I did not put the two together till someone on the HBD mentioned it. >Anyway, I recommend you do use a secondary and rack carefully. The two step >racking process should leave all of the pellet particles in the trub layer on >the bottom. This is instead of the hop bag. The hop bags are great for dry >hopping, but I don't like them for the boil. I disagree. I do just the opposite. I use a hop bag for boiling primarily to avoid the problems of having to remove the hops from the wort later, either as you pour the wort into the fermenter (my screen kept clogging and that made it a real pain!) or when racking. I just compensate by adding 10% more hops. I don't use a hop bag for dryhopping but only use whole or plug hops because they float. I've never had any problems siphoning the beer out from under the whole hops. >Also, your racking techniques >will improve with time. The key is to have a reliable way to suspend the >end of the racking tube just above the trub layer. I use a rubber stopper >that fits in my carboy with two holes in it: One for the racking tube and >the other I use to force CO2 into the carboy (at *low* pressures) to push the >beer into the secondary (I use a soda keg for the secondary). then later: >BTW, I have found >the "orange racking tip" thingy to be essentially worthless. Ditto >Fermtech's $2 racking tube clothespin. Interesting, but I've had no trouble with the orange tip on the end of my racking cane -- I tip the carboy with a stack of coasters or a block of wood and then gently lower the cane into the lowest part of the carboy. I then use masking tape or a rubber band to make sure the cane doesn't move. I discard the first two cups or so and the beer runs clear from there on. Perhaps you are not getting a good cold break and your trub layer is very deep. Then again, you've got hops in your trub and I don't. On a typical 5 gallon batch, my trub layer is about 1 inch thick, say between 0.75 and 1.5 inches. Just for the record, I have not tried Fermtech's racking tube holder. In another post, Mark writes: >I have always gotten decent extractions (except my first batch because I >didn't grind the grain fine enough). My latest pale ale got around >32 pts/lb/gal. I just did another batch, but decided to leave out any >mineral additions to see if it would make any difference to the taste of the >beer. Things proceeded fine but my extraction was down around 28.5 pts. >Could the higher pH of the water (because I didn't add any gypsum) make that >big a difference, or was I just lucky before? The pH does make a big difference and the luck is that you still got 28.5 points without adjusting the pH. Those enzymes are pretty picky about their environment and you could have gotten much worse than 28.5. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 06 Jul 1993 18:52:30 -0600 (CST) From: RBSWEENEY at msuvx2.memst.edu Subject: Yield calculator (tm) As part of my neverending work to improve the spreadsheet program I use to keep track of my brewing I decided to include an Extraction Rate Calculator (tm) to automatically compute an extraction yield based on the o.g., total weight of grains used, gallons of beer produced (pts/lb/gal). I then decided to go that one better and include a calculation for the maximum extraction rate based on some yields found in Dave Miller's book-Brewing the World's GreatBeers (p. 129). These yields in alpha order are: Type of malt Yield Black 24 British crystal 26 British mild 33 British pale 36 Brown sugar 45 Cara-pils 30 Chocolate 24 Crystal 24 Flaked barley 30 Flaked maize 40 Malt extract (dry) 45 Malt extract (syrub) 35 Munich 28 Pale 2-row 35 Pale 6-row 33 Roasted barley 24 Vienna 32 I can now find the maximum yield for a batch by typing in the type of grain and the pounds used, then use a lookup table to access the above yields in my maximum extraction rate formula. I have also included a formula for the percentage of maximum yield to give me an idea of the efficiency of my mashing/sparging operations. When I plugged some of Miller's recipes from BTWGBs I computed efficiency ratings of between 81-91% of maximum, which is what I got on my last couple of batches. However, since Miller did not include any source for these yields I was wondering if they look reasonable to the informed readers of the HBD. Also he did not include yields for a couple of grains I have used in the past, such as Wheat malt and Flaked Oats and I was hoping someone else could supply them. In the for what its worth department, on my last batch I used an all-at-once sparging method (you pour in the all the sparge water, mix for 10 minutes, let it settle and after recirculating until clear, drain the wort into the brewpot) which was described in the FAQ on grain brewing in the archives (sorry, I can't remember by who to give proper credit) and got an 85% yield efficiency. If I can get this high a percentage with this extremely simple approach I don't think I will ever go back to the old way. I will merrily post any interesting reply results received relative to grain yields. As always, your constructive comments are greatly apprectiated. Bob Sweeney Department of Management Information Systems Memphis State University RBSWEENEY at msuvx1.memst.edu P.S. Invoking the principle of one CPU, one vote, I would like to see the HBD include less technical ramblings and more investigative reporting (do we have someone watching Koch(tm) full time now?), argumentativeness and flaming characteristic of Phil, Montel, Opera, Hard Copy, Current Affair, etc. Lets quit this polite and informed, but incessant bickering and really spice it up so we can have a forum to be proud of. :) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1176, 07/07/93